RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'liborko' found 22 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 2  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: 2 6v's only or 2 6v's with the 12v

Of course they will charge and discharge differently because they have different Ah capacities. The 12V battery will reach full charge before 6V when charged and 12V battery will stop supplying current before 6V batteries will. That does not mean that they will not "play together". There is gazillion applications where batteries are paralleled without a problem. Paralleling 12V with 2x6V is not something that should be done by design but if you already have spare battery use it. There will not be any problems as long as none of the batteries is defective.
liborko 02/07/16 12:36am Tech Issues
RE: 2 6v's only or 2 6v's with the 12v

Perfectly OK as long as all batteries are same chemistry (wet, agm, or gel) and none of the batteries has shorted cell.
liborko 02/05/16 06:43pm Tech Issues
RE: 1995 Beaver Where does the tach get its signal from.

Most Class 8 trucks pick tach signal from flywheel teeth (around 112 depending on engine). Erratic tach reading could be caused by poor connections in wiring OR pick-up sensor too far from flywheel teeth. If I remember correctly the proper adjustment is back-off 3/4 turn from contact with flywheel.
liborko 02/03/16 05:08pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Reducing 12 VDC to 9 VDC

If you can solder, this may be a solution: MC 7809 regulator 12V in, 9V out
liborko 01/31/16 12:42pm Tech Issues
RE: Bypass / Blocking Diodes

The batteries are charged by two sources: controller and remote panels. When you disconnect remote panels, you eliminate one of the two sources so controller has to make up the current remote panels were supplying. Load (the batteries) did not change, still same hungry. Kirchhoff's Current Law. The sum of currents in a node is zero. The sum of currents leaving a node equals sum of currents entering node. Like Salvo said-kindergarten stuff.
liborko 01/17/16 05:32pm Tech Issues
RE: Xantrex ProWatt SW inverter neutral bonded to ground?

Ground pin is a safety device. It is not required for normal operation because it does not conduct current in normal operation. Ground pin of every appliance: fridge, stove, microwave, drill, saw etc. is connected thru green wire of the cord to metal parts of chassis & metal cabinet that is hold & touched by people. When plugged into wall receptacle, ground pin continue thru bare uninsulated wire of house wiring into distribution panel where it is bonded to neutral and actual ground rod driven into the ground. So every electrical appliance's metal cabinet/enclosure is at ground potential and a person standing on ground and touching any (grounded) appliance can not be electrocuted. Should there be electrical fault and enclosure/chassis should get hot for any reason, there would be instant short thru ground pin wire to ground and circuit breaker powering that circuit would open cutting power to said appliance. This is the only time when ground pin actually conducts current. Exactly same protection should be expected from an inverter powering any appliance in an RV. Any inverter that uses ground pin for any other purpose is defective in my book and should not be on a market. I had one of those a few years ago and I promptly destroyed it by trying to hardwire it into RV electrical system. If your inverter output does not check exactly same with a plug-in tester as in house outlet, get rid of it. The inverter OP is asking about is a good one. I have two 600W versions.
liborko 01/16/16 06:09pm Tech Issues
RE: Xantrex prosine 2.0 problem. Again

On second reading I noticed that you are plugged into single phase 30A service. Your 50A service requires two 120V/50A lines. How do you get from single 30A service into two 120V/50A lines?
liborko 01/13/16 10:04pm Tech Issues
RE: Xantrex prosine 2.0 problem. Again

I suspect voltage or frequency is out of acceptable range of Prosine so it does not pass it thru. The voltage and frequency range is programable by a remote control panel-operation manual is needed to reprogram.
liborko 01/13/16 09:56pm Tech Issues
RE: Lessons on Chassis Battery and Circuits, 2008 Itasca/Ford

If you have a "boost battery" momentary button in dash that does not do anything, chances are you have malfunctioning Bird: Bird
liborko 12/12/15 06:45pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: My bearing failure story

I went through the same experience with bearings on boat trailer. First left side, next year right side. The hub/drum had 6 bolts. These hubs/drums are available with smaller or larger outer bearing. The original had smaller bearing, replaced with hub/drum with larger bearings. Took me several years to finally solve the problem: -converted to disk brakes. Disk brake hubs come with large bearings. With disk brakes you can observe hub seals without removing drums. -better braking -you can service brakes without removing drums&bearings -install bearing Buddies. Fill properly with synthetic grease and you don't have to worry about repacking bearings annually -use SKF or Timken bearings. The Chinese bearing were falling apart after as little as 500km even with synthetic grease. -installed spindle sleeves(not cheap). Only with magnifying glass I was able to see corrosion damage on spindles in an area where hub seal contacts spindle. Good quality stainless steel bearing buddies have a blue plastic ring indicator which starts moving when hub is full of grease. If it moves back in, add grease. Keep adding until all air in hub is replaced with grease and plastic indicator stick out about 1/8". When hub heats up after long drive, blue ring will stick out more and will move back in after cooling. Adjust bearings properly: -tighten adjusting nut to 50ftlb while rotating wheel by hand -loosen adjusting nut -hand tighten the nut -insert cotter pin or loosen the nut to line up with nearest cotter pin hole There is no justifiable reason for repacking trailer bearings every season. You don't do it on a car or truck. If done properly as described, there should be no reason to do it every year. There was a good article in recent issue of Trailer Life magazine about disc brake conversion. I am elated that these kits are finally available and I think everybody who has any trailer with brakes should consider it.
liborko 12/09/15 09:15pm Tech Issues
RE: The Big and Small Inverter Scam UPDATE-Tested.

I have two pure sine wave inverters: Xantrex Prosine 2.0 and Xantrex 600W (US 100$ at CW). When I turn big inverter on, microwave is idling, two TVs are idling, two DVD players are idling, Bose audio system is idling and my in-motion satellite dish antenna is looking for the satellite. No point to run all this when I want to recharge my laptop, camera or iphone batteries over night. Every mAh I don't use I don't have to replace.
liborko 12/06/15 09:55pm Tech Issues
RE: Trailer brakes

One of recent issues of Trailer Life magazine had very good article about conversion to disc brakes. I converted my boat trailer brakes to disc with following benefits: -better braking -no need for brake adjustment -no need for bearing repacking if Bearing Buddies are used. -it is easy to observe inside seals for leaks because drums don't have to be removed. Like pure sine inverters, other type brakes should not even be available.
liborko 10/28/15 01:59pm Tech Issues
RE: Syn oil in generator

427435 If you think 10W synthetic is the same as 10W dino try this: compare viscosity of dino oil when cold and when draining hot from the engine-runs like water. Then try the same with synthetic oil of same rating. Synthetic oil has very high viscosity index and viscosity changes little with temperature, dino does not, mostly due to wax content. I use synthetic oil in everything that has the engine including pressure washer and lawn mover since 1974. Since 1976 I use only 5W-30 Mobil I in all my engines and the last oil leak I had was on 1984 Jeep Cherokee with 1983 Chevy 2.8l engine that had length of rope (too short) for crankshaft seal. No leaks in motorhome, pick-up, Jeep, car, boat, both generators, pressure washer or lawn mover.
liborko 09/29/15 11:44pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New to the V10.. Low fuel pressure

I recently replaced my fuel pump/sending unit assembly on 2002 F53 with V10 engine. The Motorcraft #F7UZ-9H307-DC (PFS-66). To my best knowledge this pump is made by Delphi and a replacement pump only is available for around $80.
liborko 06/06/15 10:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Where to get a spare tire rim for new Ford F53 19.5"

If your motorhome is on Ford chassis, your wheels will most likely be made by Accuride. Either #29884-19.5x6.00 or #29875-19.5x6.75. You can find this number on the inside of the rear wheel. Google for best price.
liborko 05/30/15 12:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A and boats

I have been pulling 19 foot boat for 13 years with class C and for the last 12 years with gas class A. No problem whatsoever.
liborko 05/25/15 11:25pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Where to get a spare tire rim for new Ford F53 19.5"

What size tires you have? Are your wheels 8 or 10 bolt? Steel or aluminum?
liborko 05/25/15 11:06pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: best price for agm batteries in Canada.

On Nov.15/2014 I bought from Canadian Tire 010-6520-2 Motomaster ELU65 AGM battery (blue top) for C$ 189.99 less C$ 20.00 core charge.
liborko 05/01/15 08:18pm Tech Issues
RE: Expected Amps with MPPT

I don't see much point worrying about panel temperature because there is not much you can do about it other than install the panel with high enough gap above the roof for good air circulation. If you want to know what the panel is doing in relation to the temperature, you have to measure voltage and current from panel, not the output from the controller. I don't know what your controller displays, mine shows output voltage and output current from the panel as well as from the controller.
liborko 03/20/15 10:49am Tech Issues
RE: Expected Amps with MPPT

Lots of errors in your post, BFL13: -first of all, all abbreviations are written with capitol letters, W, V, A etc. -Isc is a SHORT CIRCUIT CURRENT. You get it only when panel terminals are SHORTED. You don't get it when panel is connected to the controller or directly to the batteries. In your example with 230W panel,29.3V and 7.27A your boosted output current is 15.32A @ 13.4V, your actual boost is (15.32A-7.27):7.27.100=110%, not 8%. Your PWM + 8% would be in ballpark with 12V nominal panel volts(36 cell panel). Your 60 cell panel produces much higher boost in charging amps and that is the beauty of MPPT controller (something Salvo does not understand). And finally, you should invest in an ammeter for a real scientific work.
liborko 03/20/15 12:20am Tech Issues
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 2  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2016 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS