I to had electrolysis on a small area above the "wings" on my 93 Lance. When I took it all apart to fix I noticed that a steel staple had touched the aluminum panel along with the moisture started this action. It actually had created several pin holes. I would be a little concerned about this in a fairly new camper. (Mine at the time was about 17 yrs old). I repaired everything properly & still use it today.
As mentioned earlier it could be "stray current" (pinched wire) somewhere, but does have to have moisture to start this process. IMHO Good Luck
Thanks for some clarification regarding the Adventurer Thrd I was looking at the Eagle Cap real serious but unfortunately have ruled it out as they don't make one between the 995 (10'2"floor) & the big 1160 double slide. I currently have the 880 Lance (10'9" floor) I don't want to go shorter than what I currently have, (maybe I wouldn't know the diff). Like the floor plan though! Don't want a double slide to heavy for my old 1-ton. I may settle for the new 1050S from Lance & take my chances! Its to bad they don't make it with the U-shaped dinette! (I guess I'll have to put in longer screws holding up the micro-wave to keep it from breaking everything as mentioned earlier!) Hope this isn't "hyjacking" this thrd if so I apologize!
I wish we could start an "informed" thread regarding construction techniques by the various manufacturers for perspective buyers. Keep opinions & brand bashing out of it!. Maybe by individuals who have been to the manu. & seen them being built. So much of what one reads here are from 2nd or 3rd & beyond owners of a TC that has been abused & neglected. Anyway just my thoughts, thanks
After following this thread, everybody has some good points! But I don't think the OP's original question is unreasonable IMHO. I think a lot of TC's are poorly made!. I've had a Lance 880 on a 1ton 4x4 for about 12 yrs now, we go down some very rough roads with it,(but I drive very slow) washboard roads & faster speeds will eventually beat the heck out of anything. I've had to do a lot of repairs to it also. Although its been a great camper & we love it!
I've considered updating to a single slide, but I absolutely have no idea with which brand. After reading this forum for along time, they all have problems. There's no testing of RV's by magazines, etc. Is the Lancelok system any good who the heck knows!. We've all read where the aluminum welding done, looks like it was done by a 1st grader. With no over site done. This will surely crack & break!
I prefer the floor plans of Lance, but would be afraid to buy a new one! They all look great on the showroom!. There was a thread about an Adventurer that was falling apart, well don't they own Eagle Cap? Probably a lot of TC's will hold up pretty well if one only travels the pavement, & are stored inside! But if taken off road lot & stored outside there are going to go to *^*.
I think the only way to have a better chance of getting a good one is to travel to each of the manufactures & take the "tours" and make up your own mind. But if working who can do this? Sorry for the long post, but am also frustrated with TC manufactures & think that for $40,000 one should get a longer warranty & a quality built product! I'm glad the OP didn't list the brand, as this would turn into a brand bashing thrd, I agree that he should have spent more time investigating his brand.
There's one for sale locally, its an 11ft'er or so very nice interior. Its has a very nice layout I thought, U shaped dinette on right, nice bathroom on left (wet bath of course)lots of head room over cab. Just wondering, (we already own a nice Lance 880) I just see a classic here that needs to be saved! It needs a new roof, & floor repairs. It would have to be cheap,(he's asking $1150.00, which I think is twice what its worth IMHO). The exterior seems very nice. It would have to sell quick as its raining like heck here now & it will ruin this one quick.
My wife thinks I'm nuts of course! So I will probably let it go.
If anyone's interested send me a PM & I will the phone # for you
Thanks for the replies I do have metal stems & it sits inside all thru the summer months. Actually I do remove the camper in Oct. & use my truck thru the Winter. I've got have the outer dual checked as it was down 10psi in one week.
I thought that by going to a 19.5" wheel I could use a multiply tire that would hold up better on the sharp rocks etc. Even though my camper is only an 880 Lance its pushing close to 4000 lbs when loaded. Which is over my capacity for my truck. I haven't looked recently but I think the GVW for an old 99 4 X 4 Cummins is 11,000 which is a lot less that say a new Ford or Dodge Dually? I believe ( I could be wrong)
Besides I was thinking that by going to a little taller tire it would help my fuel mileage (I have a 4.10 rear end)
I do have the Tork bumps on my over loads which has helped, but it still rolls, even going in low range. I think a Hellwig? larger sway bar will help this.
Been having some tire issue's lately with my 99 Dodge Dually. Its currently stock with Toyo Hwy tread. The truck sits all the time with the Lance 880 on it on concrete, except when we use it during the camping season. I keep loosing air press on all the tires over a course of 30days maybe 5-10psi. I did have a leak in the "stock" steel wheel, they said it was leaking out thru the steel!. This weekend I checked the air before we left & now the other outer wheel was down to 15psi! so now I am keeping a log. I think maybe this wheel is shot, haven't checked it yet.
Anyway I noticed that my Toyo's were made in China! & my stock wheels come from Brazil!. I just know that trailer tires made in China arn't worth a ^%%&^.
Been a lot talk on the forum's about going to 19.2 or 20" wheels & E rated or ? commercial tires. Just wondering from some of you guys "in the know" what can I go with with a dually??. I would like to be a little informed before I go to the local tire store, & take there word for it. As there not alway's real knowledgeable about whats out there because they don't get into the specialized applications.
Anyway sorry for the long post, I might also add that we do put this rig on very rough & rocky roads, & would like to relieve some stress regarding my tires. (I know that my HWY tread do need to go, I'm just trying to wear them down a bit) Thanks for the ideas!
What are my options with a DRW 1 ton 99 Dodge?, although I'm not driving in AK I do quite regularly drive on some pretty rough roads with my old 880 Lance. I'm tired of worrying about my tires,(currently stock size Toyo's). I thought about 1" taller for more ground clearance & less RPM's. (I've got 4.10 axles) But then figured it may give me more side wall flex, which I don't need hauling the camper.
I thought about 19.5" whls but don't know if you can get them with a dual setup?.
Seems like I have to air up every month (truck sits alot on concrete with camper on) is it normal for the tires to leak off over a month's time? Maybe 5-10lbs. Just replaced a wheel because it was leaking thru the steel rim, how's that possible?
I assume that stock tires are a load range D w/2py sidewalls? I would like 3 or 4ply side walls, & can one get higher than E rating? Sorry for all the questions, I'm just not knowledgeable about tires that much. I will have to research this better.
Lately I've kind of been thinking about a used high end motorhome. I kind of like the Beaver's of the late 90's. But ran across a Barth for sale fairly close. This got me looking at them, ( I know you guys think I'm probably nuts by now). I know there's a world of difference between them & price, but I kind of like the older classic's (just like cars). I read where the Barth's where one of the top end coaches in the 80's or so, then I read on this site where someone thought they were one of the worse ever built. Is this true? what's the opinions out there? specifically say a 91 Barth Regency with a diesel. I think I read where these had a P30?? chassis which I guess is a piece of junk? Sorry I don't know much about the builders, whether it was a Sparton or Gillig?. I also read where some of the Beaver Patriot's are common to have cracks in the FG? I
I haven't actually seen either one of these, I know the Barth's are getting pretty old now, & parts could be a problem in the future. Thanks for any opinions
Just my 2cents worth, we made this trip through Jasper, Ice fields, & stopped at a couple of the Hot Springs. Loved the scenery, but were disappointed in the lack of camp grounds in Alberta. It just seemed to us that once you got into the Provincial Parts, you weren't allowed to just "pull off" & rough camp it. Did not seem to be many side roads. (This was in Oct. so most of the camps were closed, as I remember). We ended up having to drive straight thru to the large camp ground near Jasper.
We do spend quite a bit of time camping in British Columbia, where there is a whole lot more spaces to remote camp. (Don't want to offend anyone here in Alberta, as I have only driven on this particular hwy. I am very sure that you guys have just as much remote camping as BC. I believe that this is the park's way of keeping people from just camping in the park where ever they wish!
I hit a unmarked speed bump at about 25mph or so on a main st (by a school. The truck & camper bounced pretty hard. I pulled the rear mount down about a 1/2" or so & disformed the aluminum trim & side metal a bit. I know I broke the wood framing up inside, as this was already a weak side from a previous mishap.
I have a Lance 880 (wooden framed camper), that's kept inside & in good condition. I believe that I am using the Happy Jack spring loaded tie downs. I don't have them adjusted very tight at all.
My question is: I assume there's a better tie down system that maybe would have prevented the damage? (can't remember there name right at the moment) but there's a review on them.
My other question is, I know one can damage anything but would a aluminum framed camper would probably handled this better, but maybe the frame would have bent & deformed the outer fiberglass? What's the opinion's out there regarding wood framed versus aluminum?
At least I can repair it (this winter) by opening up the side & using Epoxy & new wood where I would be kind of "dorked" trying to fix an aluminum framed one myself. Sorry for the long post!
I owned an Alaskan up til about 10 yrs ago, loved it could go anywhere! Would still own it but I changed from a Ford to a Dodge & it wouldn't fit! So then I had to go out & buy a Lance, (most expensive darn pickup change for me!) I still look at used one's all the time but the wife won't go back to an Alaskan after being spoiled with the Lance.
I call this the "thousand dollar loose screw"! (I did say LOOSE). I decided on Sat to start with each wire in the system & check continuity of each wire & to check each wire seperately with voltage. (Me not being an electrician, this is how I did it anyway, I'm sure there's a better way. Check everything back to the fuse panal, well you guys were right it was a loose circuit, the screw on the furnace circuit was a little loose. I tightened almost one turn. Well under load over the distance to the furnace had to much of a voltage drop at times.(I know I should have checked there first!!) This is why the old furnace's fan would vary in sound & make some weird sounds I think. Anyway not all was lost, the old Suburban was so loud, I replaced it with there "quite" version + bumped it up from a 30,000 to 35,000BTU does warm up quicker & is more quite. Learned a lot on this go around, thanks for all of your ideas & suggestions!
On going saga: thought I would keep you guys informed of what's going on as it may save someone some $$$$$. Checked the voltage at the furnace the other night-had 13volts. So I removed the furnace, thought I would check the voltage again (with easier access) about 12+ volts thought I would check again with the thermostat switched to "furnace" it dropped to 4 volts! What the heck, so I switched it off again the voltage only went back to 10 volts, verified this several times, so I now realized it wasn't the Suburban (I do take back all the nasty things I said about Suburban). I took it up to Lynden Trailer, the hooked up the furnace to 12 volts hooked the two blue wires together furnace worked fine!. Talked to them about the voltage drop, they sent out a guy today & there stumped at this point. When he separated the two systems then he had 13vdc down to the furnace?? They don't know why were loosing voltage thru the AC system (a new dometic box) so now were taking about adding a 2nd thermostat one for the furnace & one for the AC, sure been one PITA!! I think I'm going to let them do it, then there kind of responsible for it. Sure in heck shouldn't have to re-configure a 7 yr old trailer. This is the 1st time we've had any problems with this Komfort Trailer. Not even a warranty claim when new!. Not blaming the manuf. yet by any means just a odd ball fluke I guess, my turn in the barrel I guess! any ideas?? Thanks
I don't have it in front of me here, but there was 4wires coming out of the furnace. Red wire to +, Yellow wire to -, & two blue wires one with a sticky tab with +++, & one unmarked blue. These (the blue) are the ones that I touched together, doing nothing. And of course I have checked the 15amp fuse on the board, but is OK. I do remove the fuse when I was wiring the circuits. I did check the installation sheets that came with it, I also jumped the furnace wire in the thermostat to the ground term it clicked but nothing. Thanks again
Talked to Brent at Lynden Trailer, he said to test for 12vdc at the furnace & to hook the two blue wires together & it should come on. Well I do have voltage at the furnace & tried the two wires together & still wouldn't run!. So now this brand new POS Suburban has to come out & I will have to pay to have the board changed out, which I understand because I'm in a hurry. He said that he will send the board back to them & they may honor the warranty. He says sometimes this turns into a *^&&( match & they say its ok, but it isn't. He said if he gets credited from Suburban, then he will refund me. You see I didn't buy the furnace from him, at the time I didn't know that they would do "housecalls" so this is what I get for buying online! My own damn fault! At this point anyway not to impressed with Suburban, won't buy another one! Not Brent's fault I'm lucky that he's even helping me!.
What I can't explain that on both furnace's (old & new) I've never blown a 12vdc fuse!, you would think that one of them would have, if the motor was shot & was shorting out?. Who the %&*^ knows, Brent going to look at it tomorrow, sorry for the long response, thanks again for all your help!
Hey thanks LVJJJ, I will probably call them this morning. I switched the blue wires at "the box" over head didn't make any difference. I checked all my wires seemed fine. Checked the voltage at thermostat jumped the furnace to ground still nothing but the click overhead. It can only be A) I've got a wired switched or B) a faulty new component. Would have liked to have fixed it myself but oh well! Thanks for the help, will let you guys know when I find out
Wow thanks for the response's! I may have to phone Lynden Travel Sales, thanks for the tip. Never realized that they would go out to one's place, I know Vacationland won't. I would like to at this point try & fix it myself though, as you stated LV If I switch the two blue wires either at the electronic mod. or at the furnace it should do the same thing. What has me puzzled is that the original furnace quite working, either the furnace or the module, so I replaced the furnace, still didn't work, so either I got the blue wires switched at the furnace (which I guess doesn't matter) but the problem must have been the overhead AC module, so I put in a new one but must have switched the blue wires at the module which I guess does make a difference, so maybe I will try switching these first tonight when I get home. If it still won't work, then I must have a faulty module, it wasn't wrapped to well when they shipped it across the country, but who knows. If I understand you guys right I should be able to jump one of the blue wires (at the furnace) to the 12 volt + wire & it should run the fan etc, am I right? thanks again
We did get a couple of floor heaters, but now the Wife's sick of it, she want's "her" furnace running. I'd be ok, but of course the money'a already been spent. Not knowing rally how it works, but I assume that the thermostat activates a relay in the overhead box which in turn sends 12vdc to the furnace. I haven't checked the wiring at the furnace for voltage, is there always 12 volts there then turned on by the therm. The two blue wires both have a white tracer (at the overhead box) I don't see how one could have those hooked up wrong? I could try switching them & see. As I recall they both go to the furnace, (I don't have the wiring diagram in front of me here). If I jump these together it should fire off the furnace, right? When this all started I did take one of the wires in the thermostat marked furnace to the other terminals but didn't do any good. I would be nice to be able to eliminate one component at a time, I mite add that actually this is our 3rd thermostat, we replaced it once, & then one came with the dometic box so I put it in. Appreciate all your help, thanks
Thanks for the ideas, actually it is the 5 wire style, non digitol, fairly simple. I don't have anything in front of me now but what wires do I short? I know the wire marked furnace but which one would I short it to? the grnd or fan? there's only one marked furnace. Now over head in the electronic part, there was two blue wires w/white trace that went to the furnace, I could probably hook those together & it should fire off. There is gas, even if there wasn't it still should try & fire off I would think. Thanks
Any Dometic experts out there? We keep a 271 2006 Komfort TT out at my Mothers place to help look after her during the winter months. Well our furnace quit a couple of wks back, its been making a funny sound over the last yr so I figured I would replace it. It being a Suburban 30 so I updated it to a 35 "quite model" Suburban, put it in fired it off & still made the same clicking sound overhead in the dometic AC area. So next I replaced the therm. still no difference. So finally this weekend I replace the overhead electronic relay box it still doesn't work!! Still sounds the same when you slide the thermostat up to kick on the furnace it just clicks once overhead & that's it!. I might add that this trailer is all skirted in & not able to tow anywhere for now at least. The little lady's getting a little excited now & not in a good way!. Anyway any ideas? whats left to replace!. I'm begining to think that maybe I've got some faulty new parts?? Trying to find a Dometic Tech who will travel darn near impossible around here. I just wish that you could seperate the two systems one thermostat for the furnace & one for the AC system,why try to marry the two together, what a bunch of over complicated crap. That's an RV for ya! Thanks for any help!