RE: Exterior Shower door fix
Nice work and thanks for posting this, I have to do the same fix. Our shower door was open when we pulled the slide in and was snapped off (head up my butt moment). I'm pretty sure we can fix it like you did. I have to dig the bottom post out as it snapped flush, I believe the upper is still in the door. Thanks again!
Mounting shower curtain rod??
Hi all, I tried a method another member here used successfully on his trailer and it worked for a brief time before falling to the ground. That was making a "back plate" that bolts to the back side of the rod mount then using 3M tape to stick each end to the wall. I'm using the hinged rod that folds in or outside of the shower for more room. It does have some weight to it. I first tried the 3M removeable tape as described and it held for a little while then tried the 3m super strength double sided strip on a roll. That didn't last more than a couple days.
So I need to actuall screw the end brackets into the wall. I figure I can use anchors on the inside wall but am nervous abou the outside wall, it's only like an inch thick. Really don't want to pierce my outter wall. Are there specific anchors for this scenario? Haven't tried a stud finder yet but since they're aluminum it probably won't help anyway. I love the extra room this rod provides but would love it more if I could mount it more securely. Any ideas would be great. Thanks!
RE: Need electrical help quick, camping Friday
If both + wires don't fit in one lug then crimp them together to a single wire.
They both barely fit, thanks.
Update everyone,
I'm back up and running. Would have done it sooner but between work, school, kids, and life... it took some time. I installed the PD4655 and while it wasn't exactly plug n play, it fit and seems to be working correctly. My AC, heater, fridges, water heater, outdoor microwave and bedroom TV all work. I lost my 32" LCD and indoor microwave. I replaced both fuses in those appliances and it did not help. So, I consider myself still pretty lucky, it could have been much much worse.
Thanks so much to all those that helped my through this. RV.net is full of good people and I will spread the word. Thanks again to you all!!!!!!
RE: Need electrical help quick, camping Friday
Here's an update. I received the PD4655 and started installation. The AC green, white, and black cables installed mostly the same. The black wire before had a 3" jumper wire attached so only one wire would fit into the breaker. Originally, it was routed, black out of the breaker with one end going to converter and then the other shared wire going to black trailer (house power)wire back through the panel with the other black wires. I didn't re-use the jumper wire because it had a crimped cap that shared the two wires, this crimped cap fed into the breaker. For now I just put both wires, black house and black converter, into the same side of the breaker. It was essentially the same thing. Hope I didn't lose anyone, so so long.
Now, the real difference is, the new converter comes with a new fuse panel that they want you to use BUT it has one less positive lug than my original panel. Look at the bottom of my original panel on the right, I need an extra lug. I tired to call Best Converters but they're closed today. Here's a pic of both panels, new on the left and the second pic is how it was originally wired. Thanks for looking.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b157/locknload223/Trailer/photo.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b157/locknload223/Trailer/003Medium-2.jpg
RE: Need electrical help quick, camping Friday
I called BestConverters yesterday and a lady told me the PD9260 wouldn't fit under my panel as my stock unit did, she said it was a stand alone unit. The PD 4655 would fit but they were out until maybe Friday so I'll give them a call back. Randy wasn't in but I want to talk to him more about different models.
RE: Need electrical help quick, camping Friday
Check and see if you have a GFI plug in the bathroom and reset if tripped. Sometimes a GFI plug feeds the whole unit.
I tried all the GFIs, even tripped and reset them just to make sure. Thanks for the thought.
RE: Need electrical help quick, camping Friday
After ohm'ing out the fuse on the converter board ans seeing it was blown, I piggybacked a new fuse and tested the board. The board's fan powered on for a second or two then a something blew on the board; pop, sparks, and that familiar smell of "who let the smoke out".
So now it's time to order a new converter board. I'll call best converters tomorrow.
RE: Need electrical help quick, camping Friday
Another thing. The lights, aside from being dim, weren't flickering but close to it. You could see a fluctuation in voltage.
The4 fuses I'm talking about are not actually maxifuses but regular fuses that are 40AMP rated and they are in the converter panel, show in Roy's picture. If either is blown the converter won't run
Both of those fuses are OK and I checked the other blade fuses, fine as well. The converter was working but seemed like it was slowly dieing.
You know you'll need to explain that statement.
How do you know it's working?
How do you know it's dying?
If battery voltage is at 9volts, I've got a news flash about your converter; Either it's not getting 120volts to it or it's dead.
All the blade fuses (12V) were not popped. I assumed the converter was working because the AC and DC power appeared to be working BUT... I see what you're saying. If the converter was working, wouldn't the battery be charging correctly and be over 12V and not dropping voltage. I believe I'm following you.
We've deciding to skip camping this weekend so we can make sure all is right before we hit the road. I don't want to rush through this just to save out reservation.
RE: Need electrical help quick, camping Friday
Another thing. The lights, aside from being dim, weren't flickering but close to it. You could see a fluctuation in voltage.
The4 fuses I'm talking about are not actually maxifuses but regular fuses that are 40AMP rated and they are in the converter panel, show in Roy's picture. If either is blown the converter won't run
Both of those fuses are OK and I checked the other blade fuses, fine as well. The converter was working but seemed like it was slowly dieing.
RE: Need electrical help quick, camping Friday
Another thing. The lights, aside from being dim, weren't flickering but close to it. You could see a fluctuation in voltage.
RE: Need electrical help quick, camping Friday
As I understand it, his power converter is also on the disabled list.
I haven't caught whether he's pulled the panel and checked the maxifuses in the converter yet.
Which are the maxi fuses?
**Update to my update**
Downward Spiral. I went out to lock it up and turn on on of the lights. It was dimmer than usual so I went out and checked the battery. It went from 106 earlier to a flat 9V now. The "Check" light at the top of the fridge is slow;y flashing and when I turned on the AC it kind of groaned like, "Yeah, I don't want to turn on", then I turned it off and back on a couple more times until it just quietly clicked like a car with a bad starter.
I didn't check the converter output yet. Sounds like something is petering out.
RE: Need electrical help quick, camping Friday
Thanks Surly! Lock n load, your outside outlet will also be a GFI, so check that as well. I just have two in my TT, one in the bathroom and the one outside. The outlets by the kitchen sink are wired downline of the bathroom GFI so are not separate GFIs. Bear in mind that the GFIs may not reset after seeing that high voltage, they may have fried and may need to be replaced.
The only two switched GFIs I've found were one in the bathroom and one under the sink (at your knees) I manually triggered both. All the other outlets just have a GFI sticker on them.
RE: Need electrical help quick, camping Friday
Both the TV and the microwave probably have a small replaceable fuse inside
Cool, guess:B what I'll be taking apart by the campfire?
RE: Need electrical help quick, camping Friday
**Update**
In the house panel on the 220V 30A breaker for the new outlet, I moved the neutral wire to the neutral bank and tested voltage at the outlet to be sure I was getting the correct voltage. I had 122.5 on one leg only. So I plugged in the trailer to the new outlet and turned on the main breaker in the trailer panel. Turned the indoor fridge on and the main light came on. The AC works and the outdoor fridge and microwave work as well. I heard the water heater hissing too, I need to hook up water to check for sure but the propane is off so it looks good. (An hour or so later I checked on the fridge and it's getting colder inside).
So far I have zero power to the living room TV and indoor microwave. If that's all I lost, I feel incredibly lucky and feel fairly confident I will win the next Powerball. I still need to pull the indoor microwave to see if there is a GFI behind it or even check and see if the bathroom GFI is popped.
That's my kitchen Roy just a different floor.
I assume you mean you have 120V from L1 (black wire) to Neutral (white) and also 120V fro L1 to Grd?
Do you now have 12VDC in the Trailer?
What is the actual voltage, 13.6?
What model of converter do you have?
Yes that's what I meant and just went out to double check it. I had 12VDC as long as the battery was hooked to a charger as it went dead sitting for a month.
Converter is a, WFCO WF-8955-PEC.
Where do I measure that voltage from, the battery? Battery just measure 10.6 but it's low if that matters. Or does the DC side bring it up to over 12V when plugged in?
RE: Need electrical help quick, camping Friday
**Update**
In the house panel on the 220V 30A breaker for the new outlet, I moved the neutral wire to the neutral bank and tested voltage at the outlet to be sure I was getting the correct voltage. I had 122.5 on one leg only. So I plugged in the trailer to the new outlet and turned on the main breaker in the trailer panel. Turned the indoor fridge on and the main light came on. The AC works and the outdoor fridge and microwave work as well. I heard the water heater hissing too, I need to hook up water to check for sure but the propane is off so it looks good. (An hour or so later I checked on the fridge and it's getting colder inside).
So far I have zero power to the living room TV and indoor microwave. If that's all I lost, I feel incredibly lucky and feel fairly confident I will win the next Powerball. I still need to pull the indoor microwave to see if there is a GFI behind it or even check and see if the bathroom GFI is popped.
That's my kitchen Roy just a different floor.
RE: Need electrical help quick, camping Friday
I brought an extension cord (110V) out to the trailer and plugged it into a couple items I have access to. Bedroom TV and outdoor kitchen's fridge both power up. Living room TV did not. I plugged the indoor fridge in via the 110V plug and the check light then went off but the interior light was on.
Nothing smelled burnt down at the panel. This morning I removed the panel cover and the main breaker. It looks OK on the surface, no burns or anything. Lights work off the battery but the red LEDs are not lit at the fuses, are those lit with AC power?
RE: Need electrical help quick, camping Friday
Do you have an automatic transfer switch in your unit?
d
Do you have an inverter or power converter in your unit?
Is the outside plug an automatic fault type plug, one that stops current flow if there is a short?
1. Not sure.
2. Not sure, nothing I installed.
3. No, straight plug.
RE: Need electrical help quick, camping Friday
Roy, thanks. I tried the little converter earlier, the one you said not to use and it didn't work at all. I may pick up that dogbone anyway.
I just don't get how it ran before...220V hits the trailers system in a split second it is going to go bang. you dont have it work once at 220 then fry the next.
Yes, this is getting to me to. You'd think it would cook instantly.
Another thing, all the 12V blade fuses are still OK, not popped.
RE: Need electrical help quick, camping Friday
Nobody has asked, so I have to ask the obvious. Are you sure that there is water in your water heater. The heat element in a dry heater will heat up really fast and then blow or draw a LOT of current and trip the breaker.
Yes, water in the tank. The entire panel is dead, not just HWH tripping the breaker.
The plug and receptacle are clearly marked as 30amp 120volt devices.
Anyone who purposely wires a device contrary to its markings is not a professional electrician.
The electrician did not wire the trailer. He wired the house. If the OP didn't show the electrician what the new plug is for than most would assume that a 30amp circuit is 230VAC.
I just looked at the outlet, 30A 125V in very small print. The rear looks like a 220V outlet. I told him it was 220V so it's my fault 100%.
RE: Need electrical help quick, camping Friday
big wires are for moving amps not volts. I thought you said you tried it before.
If it worked before then it can't be 220v. Unless you didn't really try it before.
We definitely tried the power with the new outlet. I made it a point to turn the AC on as well. Granted it wasn't on very long, maybe 20 seconds then I shut it off.
