Battery -> fuse -> Pos bus -> everything else (controller, loads, inverter) via each own breaker.
Battery -> Neg bus -> everything else (controller, loads, inverter).
Solar -> switch in accessible location -> controller.
This is - "correct". Of course you can wire it in many other ways too :)
I would make an adjustment -if using a battery monitor in the system.
Battery (-) -> battery monitor shunt -> Neg bus -> everything else (controller, loads, inverter).
Michelin does offer a 6 year warranty against cracking.
They do, but the warranty states specific conditions must exist for environmental damage (sidewall cracking)to be a warranty item. Michelin is very diligent in applying the warranty statement conditions in regards to sidewall cracking....
OP has tire rim size wrong in subject line -these are a commercial trailer tire typically used in low bed trailers of all types. Should be 17.5.
Well, I don't know, just a quick look but Dexter shows the same part number for brake shoes for both the 6,000 and 7,000 lb. axles, 5200 lb. axles not listed. And Etrailer shows the same part number for all three sizes. Go figure.
Okay, I now have to praise Etrailer for quick service. I ordered grease seals for my trailer yesterday at 3 pm, and they got here just a few minutes ago. Granted Etrailer is located only across the state near St. Louis, but that is really quick service. The prices were excellent and shipping was cheap. I'm a very happy camper. :)
Many Dexter part numbers for 5.2K, 6K, & 7K axles in Electric 12x2 size:
5500 - 7000 d60/d70 axle
4100 - 6000 d44 d52 d60 axles
A lot has to do with volume. Widely available, one size fits many applications and/or mass produced products are usually cheaper than "specialty" items. As Mexicowanderer says, where you buy the items also has an influence on the ultimate price you pay.
Chum leeVery true, but if you think about how many wheels/brakes are out there for that brake shoe. It's a common size for all Dexter 5200, 6000, and 7000 lb. axles. That has to cover a whole lot of trailers/wheels. But the other size of the coin, how often do you hear people talk about changing the brake shoes on their trailer? I would imagine most people own their trailer for quite a few years and have never changed brake shoes. Mine is 7 years old and this is the first I've considered it.
yes the shoe size between the 5.2k, 6k, & 7K is the same but the lining material is different between all three -at least on the Dexter brand.....
Too many good suggestions to reply to each poster, but I sure appreciate all of your inputs. Right now the trailer is in storage, so information will provide me a good starting point this spring. I’ve had the trailer since new in 2005, the first time I had a stud failure was 2008 on the right rear. Since then I usually break one or two on the Rt rear when I travel from Montana to Texas. This last trip the Lt rear broke one.
Some additional info that I should have supplied in my OP is; I changed the standard lug nuts to the chrome acorn type. The trailer is about two inches higher in the front. The axles are 5200 lb, and the scale weight on both is 9250, I didn’t weight each axle separately, but I should have.
You are stressing the rear axle/suspension greatly with the nose high setup. That in combination with over torqueing the lug nuts is probably causing this problem.
For best ride -the trailer frame should be level when hooked up to the tow vehicle. Trailer frame level puts the rear axle suspension in a neutral position allowing maximum suspension travel. With nose high the rear axle has very little suspension travel to absorb roadway defects before bottoming out. it is easy to see when hooked up -look at the position of the equalizers and spring hangers. Set up right on fairly level straight area -proper set-up will have the equalizer in a neutral position.
I agree with another poster in the thread - only re-torque lug nuts at 50 or so miles after install.
Reading that statute, a swivel-wheel would be legal. Just sayin'...
It just might be. Washington's statutes and definitions are just vague enough that if you get a ticket for double towing (fifth wheel RV with a bumper pull trailer connected) you might just be able to convince a judge that you are legal per the applicable laws.
Wheel type has nothing to do with a way to bypass the second trailer restriction in Washington.
The second trailer has be configured as an extension. That is no ball or lunette type connection between trailers.
If the spare has sufficient load capacity -it will technically work.
But -if the take offs are not good enough for use as they were -why would you set up a potential future problem if you get a flat in a remote place....Buy a 5th tire and sell all the take off's on craigslist.
big lithium battery bank - 600ah or more -lots of solar panels and stacked hybrid inverter chargers plus a generator will cut the need for a power pole to plug in the camper. You will be on the bleeding edge of geekdom with this set-up.
I know it might sound counter intuitive, but have you considered not running things directly from the battery? Instead pull them to the 12V wiring panel inside the trailer. I did this, replacing the run from the batter to the panel (4ga) and replaced the 12v panel with a bigger one. Solved all the 12v problems I was having because of corrosion, 5 connections plus the generator at the battery, and a cheap 12v panel. It's also cleaner now, and easy to work on with only one breaker style fuse at the battery.
At some point it's easier to just rewire rather than continue to grow the rats nest at the battery. Up to you because every situation is different, just throwing it out there.
This is a great point on system design! less connections is better and easier to maintain.
Another thing to remember -if you have a Battery Gauge like a Trimetric / Link / BMK / etc all negative connections must be connected before the shunt of the negative cable to accurately track the in/out of ah to the battery.
There are a number of inverter chargers out there that provide load support from a second or even a third power source to start/run large loads like an AC unit.
The magnum inverter model spoken about up a couple of posts does not have load support like a MSH series Magnum does have load support...
Victron, Magnum, Xantrex, Mastervolt, Outback -plus others have load support. These type inverter charger installs are far more complicated than adding a small inline inverter to an RV.
I have been looking at a Victron unit myself.
These are really common in the marine market. Yeah, probably going to be a LFP battery bank and solar, too. Many design questions to resolve before spending the $$$.
Really not the best solution! Usually the issue with less than a smooth ride is something wrong with the set up of the TV or 5er. The Air pin box will reduce the shock you feel in the TV, but the 5er is still bouncing around.
Mentioned before Bilstein's on the TV, and bags if you need to overcome squat.
Then look at the 5er.
#1. Pin weight, while as low as 15 percent is stated to be OK, you will find 20 percent and greater will smooth the ride well. If FW tank is forward of the axle, run with it full.
#2. Is the 5er level when towing? The closer to level the better. Many was to get there 6" of rail clearance is enough, then still way off flip axles, or add sub-frame.
#3. install shocks on the 5er, this will reduce the multi cycle bounce and smooth the ride.
Now if you still feel you want a smother ride get an air pin box, or Mor-ride pin box,
One should not need an Air Pin box on a 28' 5er.
Quality shocks added to truck.
Set up trailer to ride frame level.
Add shocks or equalizer cushions to trailer -I added Monroe gas trailer
Make sure pin is at least 20% of loaded trailer weight.
Yes it can be a lot of effort to resolve the above things but the value achieved is the best trailer ride possible without a bandaid. A cushioned pin box will help ride quality but don't nust blindly add one as many time they actually complicate getting the trailer setup in a frame level stance.