Terrible ordeal! It seems like everyone I know that has purchased a coach new or old has had to work out problems with it. When I purchased a new coach, I had problems with the generator. The dealer blamed the manufacturer, the manufacturer blamed the maker of the chassis, the maker of the chassis blamed the dealer. On and on it went. It has been my experience that when you have a warranty no one wants to help. If they do help, it takes weeks or months to resolve. When you have the cash in hand it goes much smoother. Purchasing a new coach is a real headache if you have problems.
Hey guys. I have another question. After the coach sits for a couple of days, the coach is sitting down on top of the tires in the rear. Once the air builds back up while the engine is running, the coach raises back up to normal ride height. After turning the engine off, I hear air venting from the air tank up front. Is this normal?
Wow!! What a wealth of information. I know now right where to lubricate the pac brake. You guys are right. I found the other fuel filter up near the top of the engine. Will be replacing that tonight. Keep the information coming. Thanks guys!
Well Guys.......I appreciate all of the input. The old adage of
"if you want something done right, do it yourself" certainly applies in this scenario. I would have thought that the shop I took it to, would have at least changed the fuel filter this week. I pulled the fuel off this afternoon and poured out what appeared to be mud and rust. I changed it. It now runs perfect. The fuel filter was the culprit. Thanks for all of the advice. Will definitely be asking more questions in the coming months.
I would have thought the shop would have found the bad temperature sensor. You may have something with the exhaust break. We were mentioning yesterday that it felt like the breaks were on, but could not detect that they were. Now to find the exhaust break. I'm green when it comes to the diesel chasis'.
I have a 93 Monoco Diplomat. Took it to the shop for a once over. They ran engine diagnostics and fixed some electrical issues with the transmission cooling fan. I have three problems; Once the engine is heated up and have run it down the interstate, it wants to idol rough. It has not stalled, but seems like it wants to. 2) The turbo works 98% of the time, but occasionally on initial start of acceleration, the turbo does not work. I take my foot off the accelerator, re-accelerate and the turbo then works. 3) I have some dash lights that are not working and the windshield wipers are not working. I have the checked the fuses and everything seems to be fine. I have direct wired the wipers and they work fine, I would just like for it to work as intended. Any advice would be appreciated. I only have experience with the F53 chasis, the diesel is a whole new animal for me. Thanks Mark
I put 19.5 Samsons on my rig in 2012. They have a little stiffer ride than the Goodyears, but sidewalls and overall tire are heavier duty. In 2012 I had a local tire shop put 6 on for approximately $1100.00 out the door. This summer, I drove around the forgotten coast of Florida, then south along the gulf coast of Florida, Keys, back up through the space coast, Orlando and back home to Pensacola Florida. Last week drove over a thousand miles round trip to Ashville, North Carolina. My coach is governed at 75. I keep it pegged out on the interstates. I sing SG music and traveled with a pro-group that put in upwards of 100,000 miles per year on their Prevost. I slept in my bunk while rolling down the road on Samsons. Now there are some on this site that are die hard Michelin people. That is fine, if you have money to burn. I don't, so cheaper is better for me. The ride....well, it does not make that big of a difference to me. Oh....most of your camper dealers like CW will charge much more for a set of tires. Try calling some of the local, well known tire dealers around town and see if they can install them for you, before going to the Camper dealers.
I had a generac primepact 50G, 4800 watt gas generator and absolutely hated it. Worst generator i've ever owned. There were tons of problems with it. First one was the arm that controls the engine speed broke(made of very thin steel)while I was on a week-long camping trip, boondocking and had no power for most of the trip. Made the trip miserable. So I welded it back together and away I went. Then, the carburetor started leaking from the float bowl rubber gasket. Guess what, can't buy parts for the carburetor. But you can buy a new carburetor for lots of money. Also, this genny was VERY hard to start all the time. Crank, crank, crank, and sometimes crank some more before it would actually start. It was all dialed in and tuned up, just a steaming pile of junk. All this with a full tank of gas, clean filters, topped up oil, etc. Never again.
I had the exact generator with mostly the same problems. Could not keep it running while driving down the road either. It was the worst experience I ever had. Dealing with the authorized Generac dealer was a nightmare as well. Finally paid for a brand new onan 5500 installed. 600 hours later, it is still running perfectly.
Come to think about it, the only time I really notice mine is while going down hill or when I am coming to a quick stop. It uses the higher RPM a little more to slow the coach rather than the brakes. Mine still shifts into overdrive just fine in tow/haul mode.
Just wondering how you sitesee without a vehicle? We like to explore and not sit in a campground. We travel backroads, explore unique small cities and completely check out our national parks. We would never think of doing that by driving our motorhome constantly from our campground site. Just curious.
For us, we do our site seeing while driving to our next destination. We also have a 31 foot motorhome. Most of our national and state parks I can get my motorhome into while site seeing, with the exception of off roading. For that, I will pull my Jeep. I get up early, leave the campground drive two or three hours to our next destination and spend the day exploring with the motorhome. If we find a place to rest for a few hours, we have the motorhome and generator running along with all of our household amenities for comfort. After we are exhausted from spending the day out exploring, we find a place to park, or a campground. If it is a state or national park, we are camping in, we get there before sunset. We have bikes we carry with us as well. If we are within a few miles of a destination and we really want to see something after we are hooked up for the night, we get the bikes out and get a little exercise. We just got back from a two week vacation along the forgotten coast of Florida, taking us around the big bend, into south Florida and the Keys. The only time we could have used an extra vehicle was while we were in Key West, however, we would have had the problem of finding a place to park it there. We road our bikes from Boyds RV to old town Key West and explored one day. The next day we took a taxi.
I think it really depends on how you will be vacationing with your motorhome. If you plan on taking your motorhome to a destination and leaving it there for multiple days, then having a tow or rent vehicle is necessary. If you have a car at home that can be modified to tow, then do it. If you plan on using your motorhome to take vacation tours, meaning that you do not plan on staying somewhere for more than one or two nights at the most, then you may not need a tow vehicle at all. For me, I would rather leave the tow vehicle at home, but will take it if I feel like I will need it. I just got back from a two week vacation in the motorhome and did not need an extra vehicle at all. We also did not stay in one place for more than two nights at a time. Towing is no problem. Would advise you to modify one of your vehicles to tow. Renting is too much of a hassle.
Keep in mind that of the nice campgrounds, Boyd's is closest to the touristy section of Key West and Boyd's is at the 5 mile marker. The KOA is at the 20 mile marker. I'm not sure, but Bahia Honda is even further away from Key West. If you plan on going during the summer, call ahead and check to make sure that the seaweed is not bad. For some reason it is really bad on the shorelines down there right now. It is rotting and smells like rotten eggs. When I drove back through Bahia Honda Key Tuesday morning, the smell was so bad that it made me sick to my stomach.
Just got back from the Keys today. WARNING.....Do not attempt to go the Keys in the winter months. Our "Snowbird" friends from the northern states and provinces like to live in south Florida and the Keys during the winter, and they all return home at the beginning of the summer. This was a fairly good time to go, if you can tolerate the heat. Key West was not that crowded. We stayed at Boyd's RV park this past Sunday and Monday nights. We paid $112.00 per night. Leos RV park was just a few blocks away and cheaper, but not very nice. Boyd's has well maintained sites, store and well maintained pool and recreation area. They do need to spend a little bit extra money and pay for larger garbage dumpsters, as the small ones they had were all overflowing into the streets. We are from Northwest Florida and have beautiful beaches up here. The Keys cannot compare to our beaches, but the Keys have a beautiful coral reef and crystal clear water that is great for fishing, snorkeling and scuba diving (not swimming at a beach). Key West is a typical tourist trap recognized by many souvenir shops and one of the Ripley Museums downtown. Do not attempt to drive your motorhome in downtown Key West, regardless of what Trip Advisor and other sites tell you. We tried. Big mistake. Lots of one way, narrow streets with low hanging tree branches. We toured from Pensacola down the forgotten coast of Florida, gulf coast side of Florida to the Everglades, across the Tamiami trail to Miami and down from there.
Spend your money on a manual valve somewhere in the system to stop the hot water from circulating. Close it in the summer and open it in the winter.
Sounds like a good idea in general, even if there is not a problem at all. Thanks for the advice. Will do.
I have discovered that I am having a problem with the electronic water valve on mine. It is a two hose system. I blocked the hose that exits from the valve going to the heater core with a pair of vice grips. It works and I am getting cold air now. If I block the upper hose to the heater core too, will this create pressure in the heater core causing potential problems, or is it OK to do this?
NO, it will not create any problems. Think about it. What happens when the water valve functions correctly? It blocks the water flow off completely. Why did you not block the inlet hose first,instead ???? Doug
Thanks Doug! Which is the inlet hose? On the valve there is an arrow that I think indicates which way the coolant is flowing. I blocked the hose as it exits the valve going to the core. There is an upper hose connected to the core that I think is going back to the engine. This is the hose that I was referring to when I asked if I could potentially block both hoses. A new electronic valve cost approximately $200 after shipping. I think I will opt for just blocking the hose as I am not sure if it is the valve or the controller, or a combination of both that could be the issue.
When I could not get cold air after the engine warmed up. We put a clamp on the hose feeding hot water to the heater. The AC worked fine with that hose clamped. In my case the heater control valve was bad.
Later a vacuum hose failed and caused a similar condition.
Hope this helps.
Thanks AJR! I just did the same thing and am now getting cold air. I have a question though. Will it harm the heater core if I block both hoses? I thought that if you block the hose feeding the heater core that the top/exit hose should be cool to the touch. It is remaining hot.