... i will make sure i torque them to 250 ft/lbs as per the manufacture, it all makes sense now.
All versions of the Equal-i-zer built in the last several years use Grade 8 shank bolts that must be torqued to 320 ft/lbs ... only much earlier versions (one of which I purchased back in 2007) used Grade 5 bolts with a lower torque rating. Page 22 of the Equal-i-zer Owners Manual.
I was using the word "equalizer" as a general term. My hitch is not equalizer brand, the brand is DSP. Sorry for the confusion.
Hey thanks for the replies guys! I leave first thing in the morning so i need to get this all done tonight asap. So just to clarifity i loosen both bolts that go through hitch, lift hitch head up to tighten the rivet and washers, tighten set screw, then tighten and torque the 2 bolts through the hitch ?
I noticed that the washers on my equalizer hitch were no longer tight, there was lots of space between the washers, is this normal ? Are the washers and the rivet only tight when connected to the trailer and the bars engaged ? I also noticed that the set screw on the bottom of the hitch was only hand tight, again does this get tightened with bars connected and trailer hooked up, or without all of that hooked up ? I referred to the instructions i received with my hitch, and they dont specify. My hitch is a DSP. thanks in advance.
I have a 2008 Fleetwood Mallard 18CK, i pulled it out front beside the house, took it straight to the local tire center to get new trailer tires. Took it out for its first trip 2 weeks later and notice that on harder brakes the trailer pulls to the left. I tried just using the trailer brake to see if it would still do it and it still pulled left slightly. I have never experienced this before and dont even know where to begin ? I dont think it has to do with the new tires as the trailer tracks completely straight until braking.Any suggestions would be great! Thanks in advance.