If you pack the outside bearing the gear oil will not flow to the inside bearing.
1. If you put some grease on the outer, why would you NOT do the same to the inner?
2. The oil will eat away the grease very quickly.
3. :packing" may be the wrong term here. Usually just some grease, to be sure the bearing is lubed right away. Not packed, like one would do on a grease only bearing.
If your going to clean the bearings as well as Fireup did I'd hand pack them before I put it all back together.
Is this correct for this axle? Shouldn't the bearing be lubed by the oil and not packed in grease?
A lot of mechanics will put grease on the bearings, even though they are normally oil lubed. Ensures lubrication IMMEDIATELY, before the oil might get there. Just insurance. The grease will melt into the oil pretty quick, and will disappear.
You should've headed south sooner, the cold got you. There is no need to replace the good looking brake shoes but the oil needs to be burned out of them with a torch. If I was doing it myself I would do the one side with the major leak and not worry about the other side as warmer temperatures may solve the problem.
I disagree. It is possible that the warmer weather will stop the leak. But, the fact it leaked, shows it is bad. Replace it now. It will need replacing soon anyway, might as well do them both at the same time.
I buy Ben and Jerrys Ice cream. It is good. However, I disagree with EVERYTHING they believe in!
As long as Camping World supplies what I want, when I want it, at a price I think is fair, they will get my business.
I believe using the word "hate" was wrong. He just meant the MH sales do not generate near as much revenue as the others.
I think unless you squat excessively I think 60 psi will be too much.
As stated just inflate enough to remove the squat.
Agreed. Try 30 first. Realize too, if you put 30# in when truck empty, the pressure will be higher as you add weight to the pickup. As the pickup lowers, it compresses the air bags, and pressure goes up.
I first had a set up like this. But, if one unhooks the pickup, for more than a few miles, one should let air out of the bags. I run about 5 pounds when pickup unloaded. Otherwise, you have a VERY hard ride.
But, then you need to refill the bags if hooking back up! So, I added a compressor and a gauge to the pickup, sure nice to adjust the pressure on the go! Easy Peasey!
As long as you have some room on the tire rating, and you do, I personally would not worry about what you are over. Quite often, the axle rating is based on the OEM tires, and you have upped them. Your $, your choice.
Just be sure that your trailer brakes work well, as that is quite a load behind, with that much overhang behind the rear axle.
Oh I think most of that is hoopla complaining from the peanut gallery. If there weren't federal mandates, there probably wouldn't be any effort to clean up emissions by the manufacturers because there is no profit or glitter associated with it. We would still have crankcase blow down tubes dropping oil on the ground.
If you ever want to remember what it used to be like, watch an old 60s movie and see the smoke coming out of the tailpipe as well as the drivers nostrils. I would never wish us to go back to that. I have a 1952 Cushman Eagle at home the puts out more pollution through that 1 cylinder aspirated engine than my Cummins, and that was normal.
Maybe "hoopla" to you, but I know, by personal experience, of a number of independant truckers that went broke because their new trucks spent so much time in the shop, working on the emissions systems.
Cleaner air is fine. It is good. But, the EPA forces the changes so fast, that technology cannot keep up, and the mfg's do not have enough time to work the kinks out. So, the poor buyers have to do it, in the shop.
Something definitely wrong there - they don't show any axle weight for the tag. Either somebody swapped your vin tag, or the manufacturer messed up (probably the latter).
The front axle seems light at 6,000, but OK. The rear dually, OK at 10,000, but there is no way both the main drive axle and tag would be 10,000 together.
Even if the tag was only rated for 6,000, that would put you at 22,000 GVWR.
I bet the Chassis was made with only the drive axle, thus the tag without a tag axle listed. The Mfg. then added the tag axle during mfg of the MH.
The tag on the MH says 16,000lbs but i havent actually run it accross a scale yet.
I would think you would have four weights listed on the tag.
I just cannot believe 16k for gross weight. Why would a tag be put on a rig that is only 16k at max?
I would hazard a 28-32k gross weight, or even a little more.
My '14 dodge dually pickup has a gross weight that high!
it may not actually be 8" of sag but its at least 4" for sure.
This MH weighs about 16,500lbs so im gonna need to step it up to a semi truck air bag rather then the little helper ones.
A 40', tag axle MH, that weighs 16,500#? I do NOT think so!
So true! The company I drive for, over the road, has had MANY newer trucks into the shop, for days at a time, trying to trace down emissions/DEF problems! Waaay more than normal engines. Eventually, they will get the problems sorted out, but by then, NEW controls will be called for, and the problems will start all over again!
If you are really worried, then park on a slope so that the fuel outlet is on the low side. Wait a couple of hours. Disconnect the hose from the fuel fill tube and place in a jug. Then open the valve and drain some out and inspect.If there is any moisture present, it will drain out first.
Patch then have a sheet metal shop fab a diamond plate rock guard for the front. Not cheap, but permanent.
Get a fiberglass repair kit at any car parts dealer. Fix the hole, as smoothly as possible on the outside. Keep the water and bugs out.
Then, follow the above. Get diamond plate rock guard,. of suffecient thickness.