I'm surprised that so many people favor federal retention rather than giving states the land. Have we so soon forgotten the griping we have read on this forum in recent years about the loss of recreational access to federal lands in many western states? About perfectly good roads, once used by RVers, now blocked off with boulders? About hard-to-decipher maps which, when finally understood, show that half the roads in a NF are now off limits to dispersed camping? About the fella in ID who wrote about the loss of so many back roads and trails he once enjoyed, and how he got hit with a $500 ticket for edging off the trail enough to courteously (he thought) let the vehicle behind him go past? About the almost total loss of dispersed camping privileges on BLM land around Moab?
I'm trying to figure out if people have short memories, or what!Seems your argument is to give it to the states so they can sell it off. Private property is even less accessible than public property where motor vehicles are prohibited.
As far as Moab, there's an excellent reason those dispersed camping areas had to be closed. Even if one practices proper technique in the burial of human waster, once the desert soil is disturbed, winds will blow it away. Many of those boondocking places we used to go to were surrounded by piles of poo and TP that someone had buried but the wind had scoured out. As much fun as disbursed camping is out there, sandy desert environments are simply too fragile for the amount of usage they were getting around Moab.
So, the goal is to allow no access for any humans? What good is that? What is the difference between human poo, and deer poo? Doesn't the wind do the same to both? Don't both degrade to organic matter?
When I take my MH out to the desert, I do NOT poo in the sand!
down home, :)
Every big rig on the road has that timer shutdown. If you or anyone else wants one, a big shop with a parts department has them.
"Every Big rig" not even close. Very few do. Some do. I have over 3 million miles over the road, and have seen exactly two!
That has not been true for radial tires for decades. It was a concern in the early days.
You're absolutely right that it doesn't apply anymore to PASSENGER CAR tires, but you'll most likely cause tread separation on large RV tires, especially models like the Goodyear G670. I never change direction on any tire, personal preference, but I would never change direction on a large RV tire and take the chance that the tread separates and causes a blow out. Your RV, your choice.....change tread direction if you like!
I would think RV tires would be the same as truck tires??? On my Peterbilt, I rotate the fronts from side to side once in their 250,000 mile life. I also rotate the rear tandems. On them I swap the RF to LR, the LF to the RR. I leave the outside tires on the outside, because the wheels are polished on one side, and I do not have to remove tires from the wheels this way.
This is the method, told to me by several truck tire shops, that is reccommended. This changes direction of rotation of all the tires. Never had a problem, and it is the suggested rotation method by truck tire shops.
I 'll be the first one to say No we don't cross the safety cables. The original intent of crossing safety chains was to capture the tongue of a 2 wheel trailer should it pop off the ball hitch. In the case of a trailer the coming loose the tongue would drop to the pavement. It could either gouge into the pavement and flip the trailer or cause it to swerve into oncoming traffic.
This practice may apply if you use a ball mount tow bar. However most stinger mounted tow bars don't have that problem. There would have to be a catastrophic joint failure before the tow bar became disconnected. Even then bars like the Roadmaster Sterling All Terrain have the cables contained inside built in channels.
The tow bar is contained regardless of whether or not the cables are crossed.
RoadMaster recommends that the cables be crossed under the hitch for the Sterling All Terrain tow bar.
This helps prevent the tow bar from hitting the road and "pole vaulting" if the tow bar separates from the hitch receiver.
Admittedly, the tow bar separating from the receiver is much less likely than with a ball hitch. But if it did, the stinger is going to pivot down, unless the cables are crossed under it.
I guess I'll have to revise my practice of not crossing the cables if it's possible. We had to add a 6" drop hitch to get the towbar connections into the recommended range. The drop hitch extended the distance between the motorhome and the toad so we also had to purchase a longer set of safety cables. Hopefully the new cables are long enough to allow them to be crossed without binding on tight turns.
Actually, crossing the chains/cables PREVENTS the far side from getting too tight. It allows you to have SHORTER cables, and still not get tight in a tight turn, than if you did NOT cross them.
I thought power awnings would be great. They sure are handy to put in and out. However, I agree totally with you on the wind issue. Did not take that much wind to really make them flop around, so we seldom used them.
Also, since they mounted high, and went out much flatter than the old style, seldom did they provide any shade! The sun always seemed to get under neath them, and hit us anyway!
I don't know if this will have any relevance but here goes. I was an over the road truck driver for 27 years averaging 750,000 miles each year. During that time I witnessed lots of accidents just after the incidence. I never saw a class a accident, not saying there weren't any just none that I saw. On the other hand travel trailers pulled by vans, pick ups or suv's were a regular occurance. Almost every time the TT operator had passed me miles before the accident speeding and the trailer was wandering behind the tow vehicle. When I say speeding I mean over the 70 mph speed limit. If this has any bearing on the discussion, I don't know.
I too, am an over the road driver.
I call BS on you. 750,000 miles per year? BS!
That is 2,054 miles a day, 365 days a year! Now, you may be a "Super Trucker", but not even you can do that! 150,000 miles a year is a pretty busy year!
So I found out my batteries are NAPA 8240. 24DCM:
Seems you were right 2112, they're not real deep-cycle batteries. The label says "Marine/RV Dual Purpose". NAPA also doesn't state the Ah rating, which I've learned, is typical for non-deep-cycle batteries. But to estimate the Ah rating, some say divide the reserve capacity by 2. That gives me an Ah of just 70.
Been looking for a user manual for these batteries, but can't find any. The one in my Winnebago manual also doesn't say anything about checking the SG. So I'm not sure if I'm able to! There seems to be two lids on top of the batteries, but prying them off was harder than what seems normal, so I'm worried I'll break something if I try harder...
http://i.imgur.com/sjkephL.jpg height=665 width=500
Also started looking into bigger batteries. I would have to make some modifications to the tray where the batteries sit, as this was clearly made for exactly group 24 batteries. As for a more powerful battery in the same size; Seems they all have about the same amount of power, 140 A reserve capacity.
Did anyone reading this increase the battery capacity in their RV? How did you do it?
It's hard to see for sure by the photo, but do you perhaps have a couple more inches in available height? If so you could go to a couple of 6V Colf Cart batteries. Same foot print but a bit taller. That would give you anywhere from 220 AH to 240 AH depending on which battery you get.
In our previous motorhome I had a welding shop remake the battery shelf a bit lower in order to do this. It adds a bit of weight since GCs weigh 66 pounds each on average.
This is what I would, and have, done. Get the foot print size of the batteries you have. Go look up the TALLEST 6 volt, true deep cycle batteries that fit in that footprint. Hook them up to make ONE 12 volt battery. That will give you the most electrical power you can get in the existing space. If you want MORE power storage after that, you will need to find a way to add more batteries.
Also, make sure you have turned OFF or minimized as much power draw as you can. LED lights, etc. Makes a HUGE difference in battery life.
Try to NEVER draw the batteries below 50% of their rating. Shortens battery life, and they are expensive. If you draw them down to where you notice by lights and such that they are low, you are waaaay below 50%. $$$$$ out the window!
For that kind of money, I would suggest going into a 8-10 year old Bluebird, provost, etc. tip of MH.
The quality is MUCH higher than spending that kind of money on a new gas one. That is a relatively lower level of quality for a new MH.
There is a problem with a car using a radial tire and bias ply tire, as they have different traction abilities. So they would steer different, thus it is not legal to have a radial and bias ply tire on the same car or pickup.
Not smart, but can you provide link to where it is actually illegal to have bias and radial on same car? I have never heard it is against the law. Thx.
I would think that you have a bad air filter that needs changing out. Go with a Racor filter and you will have all kinds of power.
Plugged air filter will cause the engine to smoke very heavily. A LOT of black smoke. Plugged fuel filters will not.
"Arch is correct----I am 72ft and have been coast to coast but mostly in the East and have never been questioned about length. Here in NC the over all length is 90ft. "
In this discussion of RV lengths, this is what you posted.
RV length for NC is 45', as I above posted.
Your reference is: (n) Vehicle combinations used in connection with motorsports competition events that include a cab or other motorized vehicle unit with living quarters, and an attached enclosed specialty trailer, the combination of which does not exceed 90 feet in length, may be operated on the highways of this State, provided that such operation takes place for one or more of the following purposes:
So, without stating what you have, in a general RV question about allowable RV lengths, you post a length that ONLY applies to motorsports competetors, with sleeping quarters and pulling a trailer with a race car in it. Quite misleading and inaccurate answer to those wanting to know how long their RV can be!
Why did you not state what speciality vehicle, with a specific exemption from general length laws, in your answer?
(3) Recreationalvehicles shall not exceed 45 feet in length overall, excluding bumpers andmirrors.
From NC website: http://www.laws9.com/statutes/north-carolina/Chapter_20/GS_20-116
This is what I find. May or not be correct. I cannot find 90' length for RV.
This is just for the vehicle, not overall.
Arch is correct----I am 72ft and have been coast to coast but mostly in the East and have never been questioned about length. Here in NC the over all length is 90ft.
Chart shows 45' for MH, and 65' for two vehicle combo. Where do you come up with the 90'?