I have a number of friends who are LEO's. Sheriffs, State Patrol, local cops.
ALL, repeat, ALL, agree. Stay in your car, hands on the wheel. WAIT for the officer to approach. Depending on jurisdiction, they may approach on left or right.
No inspection in ND. As a semi driver, traveling all over the country, I see no more poor looking vehicles in states that have no inspections than I do in states that do. I wonder how many accidents have been prevented by the inspections? I know some have, but I wonder at the cost? If one accident prevented in 100,000 inspections, at $20 a pop, that would be $2 million per accident. Small percentage of those would be injury producing, tiny percentage death would occur.
Just seems like cost NEVER enters into government rules.
IS that the total premium or only after subsidies? Subsidies only apply to the silver plans which all have a $1500 deductible & high copay. I am very curious as to what ACA plan you have......
That is after subsidies. Premium is actually a little over $700.
Silver plan under BCBS of NC.
And yes that is $700 MAX OUT OF POCKET including prescriptions.
Sounds like westernrvparkowner has done as much research as I have.
Income levels determine subsidies and one should understand what "income" is for getting ACA subsidies.
As for financing ACA, do a search.
I don't make the rules but like anything else, understanding them can sometimes help.
Last year there was actually a $O premium, $O deductible silver plan at the lowest eligible income level. Wasn't there this year and possibly since states setup their own exchanges, it may have bee and NC only thing.
Unfortunately, come December, I have to get this thing called Medicare.
Soooooo glad those who do not contribute to society get free, or almost free, health care! We are just above the freebie line.
Our premiums almost doubled, our deductible went up a LOT.
For the same plan, except now, thank God, as a 60 year old man, I have maternity care covered! our premiums went from $550 each to $900 each a month. Our deductible went from $2000 a year each, to $5000 a year each!
So, we went to $31,600 out of pocket before insurance kicks in, from $17,200!
THANK YOU LEFTIES!
But, I am soooooo glad that I now have Maternity Care! When this 60 year old man gets pregnant, it is so stress releaving to know my costs are covered!
I have a 40 ft RV and will be pulling a 32 ft trailer. 80 ft total lenght.
Is that legal?With a permit, you'll be just fine. The main thing to remember is not to drive too fast. Many RVers get in trouble by their excessive speed, which in turn makes it very dangerous for you when driving your rig / combination 80' footer. Be safe out there this Holiday weekend!
Only a commercial vehicle can get a permit, if using in business, and get all the things necessary for being commercial, it will work.
You will need to get a permit in every state you go thru.
You will need to get a permit for EVERY TIME you move. There is no blanket permit.
To be over length, or over width, you need to show WHY you cannot divide up the load into sections that are legal.
Probably the "thought I was braking, but really floored the gas pedal" problem.
The picture of this, and other, stick built MH's make me more convinced than ever, that buying an older Bluebird Wanderlodge was the correct decision. Built on a crash certified, all steel body and frame. Bluebirds have rolled onto their side, been pulled back upright, and driven off.
The extent to which regular RV's literally self destruct in relatively minor accidents, is appalling.
Simple. They are all good.
The OTR trucks seem to be doing fine so maybe the same will happen with the newer pickup. :W
Sorry. I am in the trucking business. The newer emissions have caused all kinds of issues and problems in the OTR trucks. Serious problems. Impossible to find problems. They are not "doing fine".
I would be more worried about the cheap cap lock failing...Which is why I went to a 5/8" grade 8 bolt with washers and nylock nut...
Not sure if that is right move. It does need to be somewhat hardened, but somethings can get too hard.
Used to have a piece of equipment that kept breaking grade 8 bolts. Went to grade 5, and the shearing stopped. The harder bolts were more subject to stress over time, and would crack and break. The little bit softer ones were still plenty strong enough, and were not quite as brittle.
Sounds like the seller has set a price that is VERY fair, and priced right with the market. Just because YOU want to dicker, doesn't mean they have to!
Do you like the MH? Is the price they want a fair price, and what you can afford? If so, buy it. If not, move on.
The indicators are usually wrong. Eventually, toilet paper hangs up on the probes, and stays there. As long as it is there, it will read as if it was full to that level. You could try filling tank 3/4 or so, and using a detergent while driving, the farther the better, then dump. Might work. Sometimes, NOTHING will work. Can replace the probes, and will work until it does it again.
I am one of those who had the devil of a time trying to manually align satellites. We finally bit the bullet and bought a CarryOut, that automatically finds them. MUCH nicer. The CarryOut does not support HD on DirectTv though. It does do regular definition on Direct.
If only an "hour or so from home". and "maybe one or two weeks during break or summer". why not just drive the car, following the MH? May not be the best, but certainly the cheapest.
I think you have gotten to where there really is no good answer.
You bought a car you like, and cannot tow it. No problem there. You went in eyes wide open.
Now, you want some way to tow or haul it. You have ruled out a flatbed
trailer. You have ruled out a box trailer. The tow guys have said the type of wheels and setup they use really won't work very well for you.
I see no other practical solution than just driving the car behind the MH! Or in front.
I do wish you good luck. We have a car we cannot tow 4 down. And a motorcycle with a sidecar. Finding a good solution to carrying both puts us in somewhat the same situation. Just no "good" solutions.
Most of these Moose bumpers are made out of Aluminum,so they remain light. They are hinged on a half inch bolt on each side. Strong???
They may stand up to a deer hit but in my opinion they are there for looks. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder,because I think they even look dumb.
I went to work for a company and the truck they gave me had one of those things on it and it was a huge pain in the --- when you wanted to lift the hood. First you had to let that thing down and then put it back up after, and oh did I mention the rattling that drove me to cut the thing off.
Have one on my Peterbilt the last 800,000 miles. Have hit 5 deer in that time. NO DAMAGE AT ALL. Before that over 400,00 hit three deer, and damage varied from 3k to 10k, EACH TIME.
Don't tell me they don't work!
Now, hitting a 1000+ lb animal at 60mph+, there may well be damage. But, it will most assuredly be LESS than without the guard.
Mine is aluminum, NO RATTLES either.
However, compared to MH's, there are FAR fewer front end designs to try to match up on commercial vehicles. And, the arguments about how to attach, and working around the front benny, are VERY valid points. I do not believe very practical on MH's.
Also, most commercial vehicles run over 100k miles a year. Average MH's, less than 10% of that. So, the odds of a hit are much less. And, most hits occurs evening and AM, very early. Not typical MH travel hours.