We had three Yamaha 1000's we purchased in 2002 for our fire department . We then mounted 500 watt lights to them. After a year we had nothing but complaints about the Yamaha generators.
Wen on calls that required lighting we had fits trying to get the Yamaha's to run when we would turn the light on. Three years ago we purchased a honda to go with a new pumper we bought. We have not had one problem or complaint with the Honda. There is no doubt which brand the firefighters will purchase if they need a portable generator for home use.
Note: generators are started every two weeks during truck checks to make sure they start.
Does anyone blow out their lines with an air compressor vs. runnign RV antifreeze through the lines?
I have a friend who uses his air compressor and then dumps antifreez in the drains and has never had a problem.
My concern is there could be water in the water pump that could freee and cause damage.
Three weeks ago my dad bought a new F-150 eco-boost. He called me this morning and told me the dealership had to send a tow truck out to tow the truck in. It wouldn't start.
He told me was had a couple times last week where it didn't want to start and after attempted tries, it finally started. Yesterday he went out to start it and could not get the doors to unlock. When he finally did, different lights on the dash would intermittently go on. The truck would not start again and the blinkers and flashers would intermittently go on.
The dealer came out today with a flat bed tow truck. Got it started but could not get it out of park. They finally got in on the truck and hauled it away. Anyone heard of similar issues?
I have a feeling he is going to wish he had purchased a 2014 silverado.
My biggest problem is I cannot get enough weight of my drive axle. I am at 5,800 pounds roughly which is putting me a bit over my rating. I am not as concerned about not having enough weight on the front axle for steering purposes, just trying to redistribute some weight from the drive axle.
I have a question for those of you with 1,000+ lbs of TW. Are you setting the hitch up any differently ( ex: nose of TT up a bit??)
I purchased an Anderson last year and loved the anti sway. Last year we drove from MN to CO to Grand Canyon. We hit high winds numerous times and I felt the Anderson greatly improved sway control over the Equalizer brand I previously had.
However the one issue I had was that I could not move enough weight off my drive axle.
On our return trip I actually had one of the bushings explode in Iowa. Anderson replaced it but I have not put the anderson back on and have been using the Equalizer (which is a pain to hitch and unhitch).
I am driving an Excursion and my TT is a Sabre 30BHDS and has a loaded tongue weight of about 1,100lbs. This spring a rep at Anderson told me the heavy rear end of the X along with the heavy TW just may not be a good fit for the Anderson. I was bummed because after using the Anderson, it's hard to go back to the Equalizer.
How many of you have had success running a 13,500btu AC with a Honda 2000 after installing a hard start capacitor? I have an EU 2000. We camp one time a year without power so I would prefer to not have buy another.
I would be close to sea level
why has this turned into "champion vs red & blue" AGAIN !!!
he is going to "motocross races" .. very noisy and FUN
the 2k Honda/yammy debate is basically null & void
2k can Not be depended on to run the A/C and other devices during high heat, might not run the A/C at all
charge batteries and/or run MW okay
run A/C and everything else NO way !
he needs the champion or something with equivalent power
Two 2,000 watt generators running in parallel will give plenty of power and only weigh about 45 lbs each.
Also as stated above, with an Eco throttle ( or even without) the Honda and yamaha will be much more fuel efficient. If they are racing every weekend in The summer and run the generator 15+ hours a day, a lot of money could be saved in gase
I have an eu 2000. We bring it with us to the fish house in the winter. We are usually there Thursday night through noon on Sunday or between 60-70 hours. We power satellite tv, lights and a pizza cooker and fish cooker we have never gone through more than 5 gallons of gas. The champion would have gone through close to 20 gallons during this time period or and additional $60 in gas per trip. The Hondas fuel efficiency has more than paid for the difference in cost over the past three years
One thing to consider is the fuel efficiency of the units. My cousin had the champion, and I believe he had to put 5 gallons of gas in every 12-15 hours. The Honda and yamaha will be much more fuel efficient. Two Honda EU 2000 ran in parallel would give you up to 4,000 surge watts. Imt alsohas an Eco mode and will only run wide open when needed. When running at idle, The eu 2000 will run 10-15 hours on 1.1 gallons. The Honda also has a fuel pump so you can attach an extended run fuel tank which should allow you to run the generator 24+ hours depending on the load and time of year.
The people at Andersen have been fantastic to work with. IF they don't answer the phone, they return calls in a very prompt manner. They have also given me some things to try this spring to try and remove more weight from the rear axle. I am hoping they work, or at worst, Andersen comes out with a 2nd generation hitch for heavy TW trailers.Can you tell us what Andersen has suggested as possible ways to remove more load from the rear axle?
For those of you with lighter TW's, I believe the hitch would probably work well for you. I will also have to visit the Airstreams forum as I have not had time to read it since early December. A couple of posters drive Excursions and claim they are able to distribute the weight better than I have been able to.I know of only one Andersen owner on the Airstreams forum who is towing with an Excursion.
His scales data in Post #933 indicated a tongue weight of 620# caused 300# to be removed from the front axle and 920# to be added to the rear axle with no WD applied.
The data indicated the Andersen WDH was able to add 120# back onto the front axle and remove 120# from the rear axle.
Last fall they suggested I raise the ball height. They also thought I may be overtightening the bushings which caused the quickbite to move forward on bumps.
I believe Howie who started the original thread on the Airstream forum also tows with an Excursion.
The Equalizer with some really stiff bars would be a better choice for removing excess rear axle weight, which seems to be what your goal is more than simple WD and Sway control. By the way, how did the sway control compare between the two hitches (before you destroyed a bushing)?
In my opinion, the Andersen had better sway control than the Equalizer. I remember being quite nervous before our trip out west last summer. In MN, I would rarely have 20-25 mph cross winds. I had always heard that 40 mph winds could be common in Kansas, Nebraska and the surrounding states. We hit some pretty high winds and I never felt the need to slow down or pull over. Even when being passed by a semi, there was minimal to no sway, and when it occurred, it felt as thought the TV and TT were moving as one.
If you are getting proper WD now, you will love the hitch.
I did re-install my equalizer last August while waiting for the bushings to arrive. I may give the Andersen another try this spring with some modifications. I really hate to give up on the Andersen, but I 'm afraid reality may be setting in.
Continue to think the basic architecture is elegant and also continue
to think their execution is lacking in many ways.
Like how they attached the chain on both ends. Okay for a small time
firm selling in the hundreds, but for the class of application they
are applying their product to, not up to snuff in my book.
Or the way they held the tongue brackets from sliding. The set screw
is NOT a good idea. Welding is better, but I'd not trust backyard
welders in general. Bolting it via a through hole or add a cross member
that has an interference fit between the tongue members best.
Basic flaw is the coupler latch and Bryan was the first to mention the
use of the Bulldog coupler in the first thread here on this portal. That
would solve that latch problem, but haven't given that much thought
since last year.
This is the original thread posted by John over a year ago
New Andersen WD hitch
This is the first towing experience posted on this portal last year
and where the below quotes are from
First tow with Andersen hitch & 9,000+ lbs TT
I wrote the original post on "First Tow with Andersen and 9,000+ lbs and thought I should give an update as I just came across this thread last night.
I first installed the Andersen hitch in April of 2012. Over the next 5 months,I put over 6,000 towing miles on the hitch.
My first impressions on the hitch were that it was incredible. It eliminated almost all sway and was able to return wheel well heights to the specs my Equalizer hitch recommended.
I July we were planning a trip from central MN to Kansas City, Then to Colorado, Arizona, and then back home. I purchased a Sherline scale before we left for KC to make sure I was keeping my tongue weight under 1,200. For most of the trip my TW was around 1,140-1,180lbs.
Some posters on this forum continued to remind me that wheel well heights were no substitute for a cat scale reading. I did not take their advice and continued to use the wheel well measurements.
While traveling through New Mexico, I came across a cat scale at a gas station and decided to get some numbers. I was quite surprised at what came out.
My rear axle was carrying roughly 5,900 lbs while my front axle was around 3,800. I will have to double check my tickets tonight to see what the exact numbers were. These weights were with the bushing at close to 1/2" compression. After tightening a bit more, I was able to get the rear axle close to 5,800 (I know this was over the axle limits but I did install a road master active suspension which is supposed to support an additional 2,500+lbs). This was a bit concerning to me.
I should also note that I have a quick bite coupler. I have read where some feel this hitch might give better results with the Andersen. I have had some issues with the quick bite. One of the issues is that the quick bite sometimes appears to work itself closer to the TV. I had to grind front edge of the quick bite (an added area to put flags in when hooking up) down about 3/8" to keep it from rubbing on the ball shank.
I also had some issues when entering/exiting gas stations that had steep approaches. A couple of time I heard a loud pop/grind only to find that the brackets had slipped a bit.
On our return trip home I heard a loud boom that sounded like it came from behind the truck. At the next gas station, I found that one of the bushings had exploded. I was about 150 miles from home and decided to continue. We made it home with no further issues.
I called Andersen and they 2nd day mailed me new bushings. I am a bit torn on the hitch. I love the ease of hooking/unhooking and the fact that it is mess/grease free. The anti sway is as good as anything out there short of the hensley/propride.
I am just worried that with the heavy rear end of the Excursion, and the 1,100+lbs of tongue weight, it may be more than the Andersen was designed for.
The people at Andersen have been fantastic to work with. IF they don't answer the phone, they return calls in a very prompt manner. They have also given me some things to try this spring to try and remove more weight from the rear axle. I am hoping they work, or at worst, Andersen comes out with a 2nd generation hitch for heavy TW trailers.
For those of you with lighter TW's, I believe the hitch would probably work well for you. I will also have to visit the Airstreams forum as I have not had time to read it since early December. A couple of posters drive Excursions and claim they are able to distribute the weight better than I have been able to.