Back on August 14th, I placed an order for baseplate brackets and tow bar adapter plate with roadmaster-tow-bars.com. To date, I have yet to receive my items - 10 weeks!
I have called repeatedly (approximately every two to three weeks) and each time that I called, I had to leave a message because "all of their operators are busy assisting other customers" each time that I call. (Yes, Because the demand for RV tow Bars and accessories is in such high demand these days!) :R
Although it took a day or two each time, they had replied to my call. However, each time they had given me an estimated lead time (along with a bogus excuse which changed with each call.) The various lead times came and went, and still no items. They keep saying that they've sent email updates, but that's a lie as I've recived not even one emailed shipping update. The only email I've ever received from them was the confirmation of the order received and that the credit card was being charged the amount of the transaction (they made sure that they charged my card quickly though!. Therefore, I know that they in fact have my correct email address in their system.
While I've been more than patient with these people, my patience is in fact starting to now wear thin. We're putting the rig away for the winter in two weeks!
Has anyone else dealt with these people? If so, what was your experience? Am I the only one having a bad experience with them?
My 8.3 ISC is self priming, no filling the filter with fuel required. Turn the key on for 30 seconds, two or three time, the electric fuel pump primes it and your ready to go.
The poster was asking about a 8.3 Cummins on my 8.3 you do not fill the filter it is self priming. Roy
Ditto and agreed. The Owners Manual is specific on not prefilling the fuel filters.
HOWEVER, now to add more confusion to the issue....
This past June at the GS Rally in Syracuse, NY, I attended the Spartan Chassis Seminar. The fellow giving the seminar (Mike) from Spartan, also worked for Cummins for several years. When the issue of fuel filter changing came up (and the issue of which filters to or not to prefill) came to front of the discussion, he said that it's fine to prefill the filters if you prefer to do so. Although he did say to prefill via the outer holes, so that the fuel that you are prefilling with is getting filtered
I've had them stuck so bad that I had to drive a screwdriver clear through it to get enough leverage to break it loose. What a mess!
Its really important to not overtighten them in the first place....
That's very true. However, overtightening at installation is not always the reason for a filter being extremely tight at removal. Even properly installed filters can become "tight" due to vibration, thermal expansion and gasket swell which contribute to the filter tightening up over time.
At our rear bedroom we have a Pocket Door that slides into the wall. On this current trip, something happened at the end of the door that slides furthest into the wall. It somehow seems that it has fallen out of the track. Perhaps the mechanism failed, etc. Unfortunately, I can find no way to remove the door from the wall "pocket" in order to repair it. It seems that door itself is quite a bit wider than the opening. There is a trim piece/molding that the closes against and can latch closed, but it seems that even if I remove this piece, there still will not be enough room to remove the door from the wall cavity. Any suggestions?
I have an inexpensive box that I bought from Radio Shack a few years ago to do just what the OP needs to do. It takes the (RCA) Video and outputs it through Coax. The initial intent of this box was to use video games with the coax input on the TV. Unfortunately, I don't have the model number of the unit as I'm at work and the unit is in the MH. I checked the Radio Shack website, but couldn't find it. As it is this particular unit is a few years old, it's has probably been replaced with a newer, updated unit anyway. I'd have to think that if you stopped by a Radio Shack, they might have something on the shelf to do what you need to do.
You might also consider Calgon Water Softener (use the liquid, not the powdered) in about three or four gallons of water per tank. The "soft" water will swish around (how's that for a technical term?) during travel and will help keep "things" from sticking to the sensors and the walls of the tanks or valves. We've been doing this for years now (after hearing about it here on the forum) and haven't had any problems with our tanks. We add the solution each time we dump our holding tanks. Therefore, our tanks are never dry. Also, every once in awhile, we'll do the add-a-bag-of-ice trick before heading out on a trip, just for good measure.
I have a 3000 MH so not sure about the 4000 but for me the filter kit was $62.54 and the fluid was $36.56 a gallon I bought 6 gallons but used 5 1/2 gallons. For DIY cost was 281.90 plus tax this was in May 2013
Where did you get your Fluid and Filters? Locally, or online? I need to get to mine pretty soon, but so far have been having a hard time finding the supplies locally here in my area.
Also, if you go to ebay and type in "Oil Filter Strap Wrench", you'll see several styles of the fabric strap wrenches. The best thing about these is that they allow you to get into tight spots. Most utilize a socket wrench / breaker bar, so even if there's not enough room to swing the breaker bar, you just use an extension.
I've would think that someplace in your area has these in store. NAPA might have these too.
Out of my arsenal of various filter wrenches, I found this one to be the one that I end up using the most. It never fails me to break a tight filter loose. The link is to Grainger, but I bought mine in a Carquest Auto parts store
Oil Filter Strap Wrench
There were many occasions that I had to live with "sightly off level" for a weekend. While I make every attempt to be as level as possible, sometime it can't be avoided. So far, I haven't had any issues with slides or any other components when being slightly off level. I guess the question would be one persons idea of "slightly off level" verses someone elses idea of the same.
Have you checked your local NAPA Auto Parts store? I get all my stuff their. Not sure if your filter is a special one or not.
That or you can try Carquest stores as well (if you have them in your area). That's where I get mine (Carquest). They will be able to cross the Fleetguard number without any problem.
I live right across-the-river so to speak, from Canada (Buffalo, NY area) and when I do a channel scan for digital "air" channels when my MH is parked in the driveway, I receive several Canadian stations as well as our local stations. No problem here. Same applies to the TV's in the house. None of my televisions have yet to burn up. :W
X2 for Safelite, that's who we would use.. Saw them fix one in Florida last winter, if you didn't know where it was you couldn't find it.. There was two spots one windshield.. Mike Mathews..
X3 For SafeLite. I used them twice (on two different windshields). They did a great job and my particular insurance covered 100%. They came right to my office and did the repair while I was in work. You couldn't see the repair unless I pointed it out to you, and even then it was barely visible.
Do ALL mohos have water line drains separate from tank drain? 02 Fleetwood Terra
Before I go crawling around down under I'd like to know chances of finding such drains. I can drain the FW tank but not sure if that will drain the lines (and HW tank also).
I'll be using mine throughout the winter, probably every other weekend. And yes, it can easily get to 20F in GA.
- c bob
Most motorhomes (that I know of) have Low Point Drains. That is not the same as the FW drain. You should see two lines each with their own shut off valve somewhere in the vacinity of your plumbing bay. They will exit out of the bottom of the MH somewhere. Keep in mind that they just generally drain the system, but not completely. You still will have water in your drains, Ice Maker, Clothers washer etc. Also don't forget to pull the plug on your water heater tank as well. Always best to run some (low psi)compressed air through the system after draining too. You'll be surprised as to how much extra water will exit.
I've had my KVH R4SL dome for four years now, and up until a couple of months ago, it had been working trouble free. The trouble that I'm encountering is that the rotating "carrage" (as I refer to it) is getting bound up when it attempts to rotate.
I called KVH Tech support and they explained that what is happening is that the wire wrap is binding up and therefore not allowing the "carrage" full rotation. They suggested that with the power off to the dome, that I manually rotate the carrage CCW two to three times, then CW two times. That should unbind the cable wrap. I did as they suggested, and it worked fine afterward.
The fix lasted approximately three or four trips, and the binding problem then occured once again. Again, I performed the recommended "fix" and again it was functioning fine for the next two to three trips.
On our most recent trip out, the binding occured once again. This time however, I'm having a difficult time getting the cable wrap un-bound enough to achieve two full rotations in both directions.
What I would like to do is remove the rotating carrage too see what is occuring with the cable wrap. I attempted to remove the carrage from the mounting, however, after removing what seemed to be all of the mounting screws, it is loose but I still can't get it removed (I don't want to force it!) I'm thinking that the rotating unit is also secured from the bottom as well. That will require removing the dome from the roof of the MH in order to get to the bottom of the dome housing.
Does anyone by chance have at least a parts/assembly breakdown of the KVH R4SL or similar model that they would be willing to share? That would at least give me a clue as to how the rotating carrage would disassemble from the base so that I could deal with the cable wrap issue.
Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, how did you rectify it?
KVH said that they would fix it for me. HOWEVER, they want $310.00 just to look at it, PLUS parts+Labor for whatever they do to it afterward, PLUS I have to pay the freight both ways. At that point, I might as well just look for a new Satellite. They also said it would be approximately 4 weeks turn around.
Any suggestions would be welcomed.
I managed to get our 2003 Ford Explorer set up with the "Neutral Tow Mode". Total cost = $32.49 (+ tax on the LED light.)An aquaintance of mine works at a dealership and was able to program the ECM for me. He only charged me $30.00.
Ford wanted $249.00 for the kit + 1 hr. labor to program the ECM for the Neutral Tow mode. Add to that, the parts manager at the dealership wasn't sure if they could even get the kits any more and if so, how long it would take to get one in.
Now, just have to order in the brackets and get the rest done. (I didn't want to order anything in until I knew for sure that the Neutral Tow Mode would work.)
Thanks for all of the helpful information.