While going down the road, anywhere from 40 to 70 mph there is a loud humming noise from above the rear axle. It sounds as if I have an F150 with humongous monster mud tires on it. It's that same sound when you hear one of those big knobby tire guys going down the freeway.
Any ideas? If I let off the gas it quiets down, but holding it at speed or accelerating is when it does it.
I thought tires, but then though my other Class A with dually tires on the back didn't make that noise. Tires are brand new, and it did this sound before and after new tires anyway.
It's a Ford F53 Chassis, 1995, 35 footer. I have not checked differential fluid yet.
I have a 1995 Thor Residency, 36 foot. I went up on the roof for the second time (first when I bought it to look for obvious damage) to clean the AC units. The entire roof has what I'd say is very similar to the old 70's cadillacs with vinyl tops. Vinyl stretched over something hard like fiberglass or wood, etc. Not the type of vinyl top that was 'puffy' with padding.
It looks to be in shape, but what is this roof refered to as? Just a vinyl roof? I couldn't find anything to say how to care for it except for cleaning it a couple times a year. What about when the whole thing deteriorates (Arizona)? Do they just recover the whole roof with a huge sheet of vinyl again, or would I roll some product right over it?
How often, how many hours do you:
1 Change air filter
2 Change fuel filter
3 Change oil
4 Change spark plugs
How many total hours can these generators (Mine is a Marquis 5000 with 1000 hours on it) go for in their lifetime?
I think it's better now. It was almost 'rattling' or knocking kinda like it does when you turn it off (just as you turn it off and it sputters, it does kind of a knock as it dies). It was doing that like it was at too low of a rpm. The owner told me that the generator was serviced last year. I have done a new fuel filter before I posted this problem. Today I found the air filter to be dirty, as well as a little foam piece wrapped around the fuel filter.
Even though I put fuel cleaner through the tank, while I had the air filter off I ran carb cleaner through the butterfly on the carb.
It seems to run better and hasn't stalled.
What's weird is that the air filter seemed to make a difference, and even to test that I covered the entire air intake with my hand and it wouldn't die. What the hell? lol
I have a BGM series Onan Marquis 5000 which fires right up. After about 20 minutes it just randomly dies. Then it won't start for 10 minutes or so then will fire up again. Sounds weird, but it seems to do this when it is the generator by itself. With the motorhome's engine running it doesn't seem to do it. Any ideas? It is 1/2 tank full.
Well, I'm not the expert you wanna hear from (they will chime in) but -
1) make sure your fuel tank is at least 1/2 full
2) in my experiences with mechanical and electric fuel pumps, the flow (GPM) should remain steady
3) are you removing the fuel line for testing, before or after the fuel filter ?
4) get a timing light and hook it up, crank the generator and look to see if the light is flashing - if it is, you're getting spark and the fuel flow (be it pump, filter) become more suspect.
Air - Fuel - Spark
The fuel line looks newer and feels okay. I'm removing the line before the fuel filter. Either that or maybe the carb is gummed up? It ran so perfectly though before.
Hi all, have a 1995 Thor Residency, 460 motor, and 1000 hours on an Onan Marquis 5000. Sorry I don't have the actual model off the sticker (KYxxx, etc).
It has been running fine then on our last trip it stalled. We were going somewhere so I figured I'd leave it and mess with it when I got back. I got it to restart once, then it ran 10 seconds and died. Now it won't even crank over. This one has s carburetor with an altitude knob hanging under it (5ooo ft. to 10000 ft). It has a lever on the airbox for the air filter that shows winter and summer settings. I pulled the fuel filter off since I don't know a maintenance history of the unit.
Question #1: When I crank the unit over with the fuel filter off, exactly how much fuel should be coming out of the fuel line onto the ground or into a container? Upon first hitting start, it sort of squirts out, and the longer I hold the start button down as it's cranking the starter, it slows down sort of a half of a trickle. Is that normal? Or should this be squirting out the whole time faster?
I'm replacing the fuel filter anyway but I don't know if what I said above shows signs of a fuel pump. I can't remember if there is a fuel pump 'hum' that it's supposed to make or not. If it were a fuel pump, where the heck is it on this unit?
Did you check the fluid with the dipstick while at the side of the road? Was it burnt or did it look and smell OK?
I hope it is something somewhat inexpensive like a broken linkage, vacuum line, electrical module, etc.
I guess there is also the possibility that it could be in the rear differential.
No I didn't pull the stick, by the time I waved cars and got highway patrol going and the towtruck I never got a chance.
I guess any of us getting into this 'sport' deal with the fact that we are taking on a potential risk with having vehicles like this. The tow truck guy has seen it all, and liked my methods of climbing hills, using gears, easy on the brakes. He said that the semi's going 80 mph down hills are over confident, loaded or not, and that my 50mph is much safer. He pointed out some charred places where semi's last weekend hit a barrier and exploded due to going to fast downhill.
Had this happened downhill, with no gears to hold me back I suppose a motorhome can still make a complete stop if I started at 50 mph, and by the time I realized I have no gears, to let's say 70mph if it had to. (given it's within it's GVWR) You only need to do that once. Still dangerous to be stopped blocking a lane, and worse being downhill where car's can't stop as well whereas when I was stuck on the uphill it actually helped them brake. Being stopped and blocking a lane and risking collision is better than using brakes only and having them fail further down. I think lol
In my case this last weekend my transmisison failed on a grade, but it was uphill.
What if instead it failed on the downhill and wouldn't hold my speed back. Is it best to just come to a complete hard stop on the spot and go to the side of the road before it gains too much speed?
Or is it best to ride it out, using hard braking but letting them cool off until it flattens out THEN pull over?
Had tranny fluid and filter replaced a couple months ago. 61,000 original miles, no rebuild that I know of. It's in a 35 foot Thor Residency with 460 (7.5L) E40D tranny. The motorhome is within it's GCWR on all axles. Climbing a 6% grade at 3,500 rpm, little more than half throttle, like all the other climbs. Has Banks Trans Command module. very normal strong climb. Was 80 degrees out. Engine temp was on the letter "R" on the word "NORMAL". All of a sudden my engine redlines as if it popped into neutral. I let off, put it into neutral, and try "D" again. Nothing. At this point it's uphill so it's naturally slowing down and I try "2". Nothing. Even slower and I try "1". Nothing. Pulling over blocking the right lane on a blind curve on a grade is scary and dangerous situation. I was just waiting for an impact, and man we got out of that motorhome in 10 seconds total I tell ya lol....Had pylon cones out, waving traffic over to warn them down a ways, etc.
No fluid on the ground, no slipping prior to this, no smoke. Any ideas? I have reverse. I see no obvious linkage or electrical/wire issues underneath (from road debris, etc). It's at a shop but I want to know all I can so if they come back with something outrageous I can make a decision. I never pulled the stick, as I was coordinating traffic, highway patrol, a tow truck, etc.
Anybody ever run into this? I'm sure I could post in a transmission forum but was curious if anybody had experience.
Good Sam towed us and acted as if they don't know what shops could work on it. Isn't that their job? They said it's sunday and no one is around to call around. Understood but they wanted to tow me to an RV park first, then I had to pay for the 2nd tow to a shop. Anyways, the tow truck himself knew the area extensively and towed me directly to a shop.
I have an F53, 1995, weighing 15,000 lbs. I noticed the front axle is near it's limit. I put some stuff from the front compartments to the back compartments, and a bike hitch on the back. I had it weighed and it helped. Question is, will my rear air bags inflated pretty high affect the weight on the front axle? By letting air out of my rear air bags, will it lessen the weight on the front axle?
I'm trying to think logically. Even if I had a football team on the back bumper it HAS to add weight to the front also, it just has to.
I don't want to pay 10 times to get this thing reweighed unless I know how the air bags affect it and loading the back instead of the front affects it. Even if I get the front axle to fall within limits as well as the back, does a 'ratio' of how much the front has versus how much the back has matter?
Just bought this rig and looking it over. Ugh. Upon looking closer at the water tank and where the filler hose from the outside meets the water tank, there is some 'padding' probably to prevent the tank from rubbing or squesking against where it sits. These surfaces have bubbles on it. Upon further investigation, it appears as though the bubbles are from it being eaten by something. It looks as though the last owner had tried to fill gasoline into the fresh water tank. Since the filler hose had a split in it, I think fuel leaked out and ate some of the plastic. No wonder my water smells gross. Now in any RV I'll ever own, I won't drink the water, I don't care how sanitized or how new. But, in the interest of cleaning this tank out for showering, doing dishes, etc, will something like Dawn soap and several rinses of the entire system do the trick? Any other ideas of how to swish this out and get rid of the gas smell? Lemon? Vinegar? Dawn?