RE: Sluggish electric awning
Check the awning and make sure that it isn't bent. If it goes at normal speed and the slows a lot and the speeds back up and then slows again, that is probably the problem. I had to replace my awning because of that. The hardware and motor were still good.
RE: Aftermarket Tach for 454 P30
If it was me, I'd just get a scan gauge. But, not sure if a 1993 has the proper connection for one. It would sure be a lot easier than hooking up a tach and you'd get a lot more information than a just a tach provides.
RE: Tow vehicle battery going dead
What are you using for the aux brake system.. The US-Gear Unified Brake Decelerator system includes a link between the coach battery (Chassis) and the towed, Heavy wire breakerd at 20 amps (Coach) and 40 (Towed).
Invisible brake (Roadmaster?) also has a charge provision.
The Towed charge system above with other brake systemns.
Second, there should be a fuse or two you pull, or you remove the fuse, install a way overpriced adapter (like 50 bucks) with leads and a switch, and plug the fuse into the adapter.. Flip the switch and it cust off the battery killers.
The running lights should NOT come on in the accessory position.
If you look in your owners manual, it will tell you which fuse to pull, anyway it does on the newer ones. I installed the switch on my Equinox, which I agree was way over priced. But, it may be the best money I've ever wasted. This poster is right, though, the outside running lights should not be on with the ignition switch in the aux. position. I have a friend who has a 2012 Honda CRV and he refuses to pull the fuse like his manual says, but he does make sure his radio is off, and he doesn't seem to have any problems. If it was me, I'd put in the overpriced switch, which you could probably make yourself, if you saw one.
RE: Buying an RV from Dealer vs Private Owner
I've done both and think you just have to be as knowledgeable about RVs as possible. Check out each unit thoroughly or if you can't, pay an expert to do so for you. Anything you buy used could break as you're driving it away regardless of how well the dealer or private seller talked it up. The only advantage to a dealer sale I can see is you might get a 30-day 50/50 warranty.
Well its not necessarily true that the only advantage is the warranty. We bought ours from a big dealer in Texas and we stayed there for 7 days transferring all our stuff from our old motorhome to the one we bought, since we are full timer. Both our old and new unit were side by side under a covered structure with full hookups, while we were there During that time, anything we found while were there was fixed, including replacing an a/c unit. We had a technician assigned to our unit to fix anything we asked him to. Also, our gas tank and lp tank were topped off. Since we didn't tow our toad down there with us, they gave us a free loaner to use while we were there, a 2011 Equinox just like the one we tow. Although, it was covered with advertisements for the dealership. We got our Tour Master for $3000 under wholesale. So, we were thrilled with the whole experience and would highly recommend our dealer. There are advantages going either way, but in my opinion if you could find a dealer like ours, that is the way to go.
RE: Norcold 1201 LRM plague
I got tired of trying to get my 7 year old Norcold 1200 LRM to work properly, so I replaced it with a residential type Samsung RF197. WE are so happy with it. More cu. ft. and no worries about fire.
And how, exactly, does that HELP the OP..:h:h:h
Some of us, for many reasons, such as mods necessary to have residentials installed, boondocking, whatever, want to keep the Norcold. I've used them for many years and have had good luck with them. I replaced my cooling unit last year with the Amish unit and am satisfied with it. I didn't like the Samsung as it sticks out 2 1/2 inches farther than the Norcold, something I do not want in my coach. All that said, back to the OP's question and staying on track....:E
To the OP..yes, air circulation is imperative on the Norcold units. Also, proper installation is a must, as it is with most things. When I had mine replaced last year, I did not check out the install when it was completed...my bad... and discovered the cooling fans were not working. Since you cannot access the fans from the exterior, unless you have an upper door installed such as Fleetwood has done on many of their units, you have to make adjustments. A temp fix is to simply plug in an AC fan using a bungee cord while you're parked. My permanent fix was to make a bracket to hold several muffin fans, 120mm, 130cfm, 12VDC and mount it in the roof stack. Pulling air UP over the cooling unit is more efficient that blowing air ON them. This will solve your cooling issues.
As to the gaps you refer to, sealing the unit properly is usually a good thing. While I can visualize somewhat how you describe it, I don't see where you hurt anything. That said, read your install manual that came with the fridge. There must be some air flow around the fridge for it to operate efficiently. Just make sure you leave sufficient air flow for it to do so....Dennis
Well, it could very well be his next option if his fix fails. We are full timers and we very seldom boondock and when we do its usually an over night thing. My inverter and four 6V battery bank are separate from my house batteries and as much as these new refrigerators run it has and will last overnight. Then there is always the generator. It does stick out 2-1/2" farther, but, we still have 26" to walk thru and 34" at the widest point, where you would stand to open it. Not much to give up for 50% more refrigerator space.
RE: Norcold 1201 LRM plague
I got tired of trying to get my 7 year old Norcold 1200 LRM to work properly, so I replaced it with a residential type Samsung RF197. WE are so happy with it. More cu. ft. and no worries about fire.
RE: Alfa See Ya
I would go with a Newmar. If I ever get the funds to buy a new DP it will be a Newmar.
I wasn't saying a Newmar or a Tiffin were not good coaches. If I had $300,000 a new Tiffin or Newmar would defintely be in my sights. I just believe Alfas or Gulf Streams are good choices as start off DP's. The one thing I don't like about Alphas is they don't offer full body paint. But, for what you can get one for, you can easily remedy that.
RE: Alfa See Ya
We have friends that purchased a 2005 Alfa new and have now purchased a 2008. They love them and really I can't see much wrong with them. Like a previous poster said if you find a used that is in good shape its peobably ok. They have all the amenities the other manufactures do and use the same components. Plus you'll probably get a great price. There is a company in CA, the Alfateers, that bought up all the stock (parts) Alfa had during their bankruptcy, and they do repairs on them. You'll find that most the people that diss the Alphas have never had one and own Newmars and Tiffins. They are tough on Gulf Streams too, but I love mine.
RE: Dometic microwave convection oven light
Well, I gotter done. I had to remove the grill in front and take off a plastic grate on the right side. Then remove the bracket that holds the bulb down behind the controll panel. Pretty simple, just four screws, all easy to get at.
RE: Dometic microwave convection oven light
How about from the grill area. That shows just two screws. And to tip the grill forward and you can see the light. Your manual must be different than the one I am looking at, so will not give a page # on this one. Hope this helps.
Thank you, that's what I was going to try next.
RE: Dometic microwave convection oven light
On page #9 of the manual it says to remove the screw and that end drops down. The manual can be download from Dometic home page.
Its on page 29 and that is for the light underneath the microwave. There is one inside the oven itself and I don't know how to get to it. You can see it in the perforated holes towards the front on the right side if you shine a flashlight in there.
Dometic microwave convection oven light
We have a Dometic microwave convection oven model dotcr11b in our 2006 Gulf Stream Tour Master. The light in the oven itself has burned out. I cannot see anyway to get at it. Anyone know how you can replace it? I hate to take it apart and find out I don't have to.
RE: Norcold Frig
Question? Do you have to remove the cover on the roof to gain access to the fans. I really can't see mine by removing the rear access cover.
RE: Low Water Sign
On my freightliner chassis the message I got was low coolant level and yes there is a radiator cap on the coolant resivour. Don't think they'd call the coolant just water. But, I could be wrong. When I checked mine after getting that message there was nothing in the resivour.
RE: Motor Home Specialist
I have never bought there. I did have a go but they had virtually no interest in providing any assistance whatsoever as regards the import process. I got the feeling that once a sale was complete, the buyer was really on their own.
Vic
Just me, but if I was buying from out of the US I wouldn't expect a lot of support.
Vic46J is from Canada. MHSRV is in Avarado, TX south of Fort Worth.
RE: Motor Home Specialist
I bought from them and was very happy with them. The salesman was great. They have the best prices around on used units. But, you need to spend some time there to go over your unit and make sure everything is ok. We are full timers and we stayed there a week moving stuff from one unit to the other. In that time we found several things that needed to be taken care of, even though they go over a used unit pretty well. They took care of everything we found. Even replaced one of our roof a/c units with a brand new one right out of the box. Once you leave there, though, you are on your own with a used unit. We got a great price and a really good used motorhome. The deals are even better if you don't have a trade. I basically traded wholesale to wholesale.
RE: Large Awning Adjustment
My largest awning on the curb side is off center on it's track causing the two arms to be farther apart then they should be. This is causing the arms not to seat properly on their rails (attached to the coach) when they retract. How is the best way to adjust this ? Thanks.
Open the awning all the way, lock the roller in the open position, then shorten the rafter arms enough to put some slack in the fabric.
At that point it's easy enough to slide the fabric along the "house" rail, which is where the adjustment is usually made.
Check your work by closing the awning, and once satisfied: be sure to reinstall fabric retaining screws in the houserail- awning shift is usually caused by those falling out...
Not so, you adjust it where it slides into the awning roller, that's where it gets screwed up. It can't move on the "house" rail with the screws in it.
RE: Large Awning Adjustment
Extend the awning fully and move the retraction strap to where it is centered on the awning rail. With the strap in the right place, the awnings will usually retract straight.
Electric awnings don't have a retraction strap.
RE: Large Awning Adjustment
You have to pull the awning one way or the other on the roller. Its always hard for me to figure out wich way to pull it, so I pull it the way I think it shoud go and roll it up to see if its ok and if that's not right I start pulling it the other way. I leave my awning out all winter while we are in south texas with one end lower that the other and I usually have to adjust this before I leave.
