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 > Your search for posts made by 'nemo45' found 82 matches.

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RE: Power Leveling jacks and main slide

If it's the motor this is what it is: 10822MN New Mercury Marine Mercruiser Tilt Trim Motor Replaced mine last year Do Not buy from RV dealer you will be shocked by the price. http://www.amazon.com/Mercury-Marine-Mercruiser-Tilt-Motor/dp/B001US248C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398209624&sr=8-1&keywords=10822MN+New+Mercury+Marine+Mercruiser+Tilt+Trim+Motor This is the exact motor I need. It looks exactly like the motor on my unit. The one you have, Gary, doesn't look like mine. I have both of them ordered and I'll probably send the one from Rareelectrics back.
nemo45 04/22/14 07:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Power Leveling jacks and main slide

Ok, the pump does not run when I jump it and there is no click. There was 12V at the buss bar. The next step was to check continuity between the blue wire and the black (ground). There was none. The guide says if there is no continuity between the blue and black wires replace the motor. So, I'm ordering the motor and having it shipped to my summer address. We'll be there by May 1st. How do you remove the motor? It looks like there are just four screws that hold it on. This time when I unplugged the connections to control panel I only unplugged the 6 prong plug that supplies power from the ignition. I'll leave it that way until I get home.
nemo45 04/22/14 12:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Power Leveling jacks and main slide

Update information. Did you make a jumper wire and go from the 12Volt power supply post of the solenoid to the post of the blue wire? Did you hear the coil click on? If not Did you try to put power directly to the motor Post? My jacks are double action jacks. Need power to drive then down and also to drive then up. Are yours like that? Also if you look at the back side of the electric motor there is a small cover plate on the center of the motor held on with two screws. If you remove this plate you will find a 7/16 hex head bolt on the center of the shaft. You can put a drill with a 7/16 socket drive and run the motor this way to power the pump to make sure the jacks are in the full up position and this should shut off your alarms light on your jack panel. Parts I order my motor from Rareelectrical.Com it was $289.83. Took two days to get to me. Motor Number is #800302. Rareelectrical phone number is 1-800-695-01363. This is just for the motor, pump in not included. I had to pull the bearing on the pump side of the new motor. I had my system fail right after we left TX. for the winter. Had the alarms and lights going off ever day I started up the engine, for seven days. Good Luck. My system is exactly like yours. My system failed much as yours did. We overnighted in Luling, TX after leaving the valley, every thing was fine. When we left I retracted the jacks and then brought the slide in. Everything worked well at the time. I didn't notice the control panel flashing until we were on the road for a couple of hours. Why did you have to pull the bearing on the pump side of the motor? Interference with the pump? I'm pretty sure it will be the pump when I get to checking out. Going to do that right now. When we stopped overnight again, I unplugged all of the wires from the control panel so I didn't have to put up with all the flashing. I'm going to hook it back up before I do the trouble shooting. Thanks so much for all of the help.
nemo45 04/22/14 09:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Power Leveling jacks and main slide

I just paid about $290 a week ago. I will post the information as soon as I get all the information. Gary Gary, you could send me a private message if you want.
nemo45 04/22/14 08:16am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Power Leveling jacks and main slide

What type of leveling jack system do you have? I have Power Gear on my MH. I just had to replace the motor. I believe both Power Gear & HWH Leveling system you can test the motor our if you can get to it. All you have to do is make a jumper wire and connect it to the power post on the pump motor it should have 12 volts on it(that is the post on the motor from the battery) than if you touch the post on the motor that has the blue wire with the other end of the jumper wire the motor should run. If it runs than you have other problems. I just had the same problems. With out the jacks being in the full up position the system is trying to do an emergency retract. Are you sure your hydraulic oil level is good? There is also a low oil switch in the tank. Just trying to cover all the bases. Its a Power Gear system. The hydraulic tank is full. I was able to download the parts and service manual for DeWald coach hydraulic leveling systems from the power gear web site. It has a trouble shooting section for when the pump will not run. It says to jumper the two large post on solenoid "A" to see if the pump will run. Which would be the blue wire and the red wire on the solenoid. Basically the same thing you are saying. The jacks are all the way up and the slide is in. But when I hit the "on" button the jacks down light is on. I know that when all the lights flash it is in the emergency retract mode and that is what happens when I take the parking brake off. If it turns out to be the motor, where can I get it and can you tell me what it cost?
nemo45 04/21/14 09:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Power Leveling jacks and main slide

No it did not blow again and there is a 20 amp fuse that is also marked jacks that never did blow. I am at a loss as to the problem. The pump itself looks fine and there is no smell as if the motor burnt up.
nemo45 04/21/14 10:23am Class A Motorhomes
Power Leveling jacks and main slide

The Jacks and main slide on my 2006 Tour Master just quit working. When I press the on button on the control panel it shows that the jacks are down, but they are not. When I take the parking brake off all of the lights on the jack control panel flash. The pump does not run at all. I've looked all over for a blown fuse and I checked the 80 amp mini-breaker in the rear electric panel and it was ok. I did find a 15 amp blown fuse that was marked jacks, but I replaced it and it still doesn't run. The main slide is hydraulic and runs on the same pump as the jacks so we are a little cramped till we get this fixed. Does anyone have any suggestions?
nemo45 04/21/14 09:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Replacing a Norcold 1200 with a residential

Joel, Your Thunder looks similar to mine. Did the Samsung fit through your entry door with the doors and drawer removed or did it have to go through a window? Also, do the door handles hang out to far? My floorplan is a Monticelo so with the slide out I think no problem. Thanks Marty We didn't try to bring it through the door. The folks who did the remodeling hired someone to remove and replace the right windshield. The swap was done in a single afternoon. The door handles don't stick out all that far. They look like this: http://weisstravels.com/resources/new+fridge+reduced.jpg They didn't fool with the windshield on ours. They brought it in thru the side window above our dinette. They use a fork lift to remove the old one and to bring the Samsung in. So glad I didn't try to do this myself.
nemo45 03/25/14 09:50am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Replacing a Norcold 1200 with a residential

Samsung rf197. Perfect fit in width and depth, plus only about 2" taller than the Nocold 1200. Really nice to have "frozen" ice cream and "cold" beer. LOL. X2; another vote for the Samsung RF197! Best improvement we've made. Same with us. the best improvement we ever made on our coach. And even with installation cheaper than a new norcold 1200 or dometic.
nemo45 03/25/14 09:43am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Need help Norcold 1200 with a Amish cooling unit

Lets see...you have to take your windshield out in order to get the home type frig in the coach right ?.......ehh no I'm not going there. Thank you very much.. Our 18 yr old Norcold 1200 is serving us very well to this day..Its just as efficient as our home refer.when it goes I'll get it fixed or buy one that fits through the door..Taking your coach apart to fit the home type refer in is sheer insanity.Now if they have one that fits through the door of course thats a different story.. It depends on the rig. On mine they took out a side window. I took maybe 45 minutes total in and out. That includes recaulking. I think the reinstall was better than the original. Not sheer insanity. The best single improvement we ever made to our Tour Master.
nemo45 03/07/14 08:07am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Goodyear RV 670 vs Michelin XZE

Man that sounds way too expensive. There are allot of other great options out there. I just replaced my Good Years with Hankook AH11`s for $275 per tire (Mine uses 245/70R 19.5) I just had a tire dealer that sells Hankooks tell me that they quit making AH11's and nobody in our area, the Rio Grande Valley, has them. Wonder if he was being truthful? Besides, if the OP is spending over $500 a tire he is probably talking about 22.5" tires. There's a lot more rubber in those.
nemo45 03/06/14 09:37am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Looking at new Gasser

The ride and engine noise now in the back would make me never move back to my Winnebago gasser Actually my fuel cost per mile computed given current Oregon pricing is .05 per mile less on my diesel, the price is 20% more per gallon but I am getting 33% better fuel economy 7 vs 9.3 mpg now Ditto! Also the fact that I can actually use my cruise control with my diesel pusher. Is this another myth from the DP crowd? :B I cruise at 70MPH with the toad and WITH the cruise control and can match the 9MPG if I want to loaf along in the right lane at 55-60. I am retired and realize that my time left is limited so I prefer to spend the time at my destination rather than sitting in the right lane trying to save a few pennies. Give me a break! I had a 37-1/2 gasser and drove it at 62 mph, which is what I drive the diesel at, and I never ever hit 9 miles per gallon. The highest I ever got was 8.2 and that was flat land with absolutely no wind. Most the time if it wasn't real windy I got around 7.2 with the gasser. One tank with the diesel and a tail wind I hit 9.8 mpg. This is with an Equinox toad. I had a scan gauge on both the gasser and the diesel and I am going by the average mpg which I zero at every fill. As Will Sonnet said "no brag, just fact". We never travel more than 350 miles a day and I can do that at 62 mph just as easy as 70. Your talking about 36 minutes difference. The point I was trying to make was that for the difference in cost for gas and diesel and maintainance, it is a push, because of the better fuel economy with the DP. So why put up with the gasser? While we liked the floor of our Georgetown gasser you could never get us to go back to one just for the difference in the ride and the noise and the fact that it doesn't sound like its going to explode trying to maintain 62 mph going up a small hill while in cruise control. Wow, and in no way is this even remotely true "for the difference in cost for gas and diesel and maintenance, it is a push, because of the better fuel economy with the DP." Power to weight has a lot to do with mpg, and sorry but, they are closer than you will ever believe. You would have to drive 100,000 miles a year for 10 years to recoup anything if at all and hope you don't have any $$$$$$$ repairs. So I say why pay more for fuel, more for maintenance, more for repairs that goes with owning a diesel when a gasser can do everything the same but tow more than 5000lbs. BTW your last sentence? Ever been behind a diesel going uphill, or stand outside one just idling. Guess not. I hate to burst your economy minded bubble, but I paid $6000 less for my used diesel pusher that I did for my new gasser. I've driven up hills with both my gasser and my diesel and the diesel is every bit as strong going up hill as the gasser was. I have passed both gasser motorhomes and semis going uphill with my DP. Since I don't stand outside the DP while I am driving it I don't particularly care what it sounds like out side and behind me. I'm not trying to justify anything, just simply stating my observations as far as fuel economy between the two. And, even if they got the same mpg I'd still go with the DP because of the better and quieter ride.
nemo45 03/05/14 09:54pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Looking at new Gasser

The ride and engine noise now in the back would make me never move back to my Winnebago gasser Actually my fuel cost per mile computed given current Oregon pricing is .05 per mile less on my diesel, the price is 20% more per gallon but I am getting 33% better fuel economy 7 vs 9.3 mpg now Ditto! Also the fact that I can actually use my cruise control with my diesel pusher. Is this another myth from the DP crowd? :B I cruise at 70MPH with the toad and WITH the cruise control and can match the 9MPG if I want to loaf along in the right lane at 55-60. I am retired and realize that my time left is limited so I prefer to spend the time at my destination rather than sitting in the right lane trying to save a few pennies. Give me a break! I had a 37-1/2 gasser and drove it at 62 mph, which is what I drive the diesel at, and I never ever hit 9 miles per gallon. The highest I ever got was 8.2 and that was flat land with absolutely no wind. Most the time if it wasn't real windy I got around 7.2 with the gasser. One tank with the diesel and a tail wind I hit 9.8 mpg. This is with an Equinox toad. I had a scan gauge on both the gasser and the diesel and I am going by the average mpg which I zero at every fill. As Will Sonnet said "no brag, just fact". We never travel more than 350 miles a day and I can do that at 62 mph just as easy as 70. Your talking about 36 minutes difference. The point I was trying to make was that for the difference in cost for gas and diesel and maintainance, it is a push, because of the better fuel economy with the DP. So why put up with the gasser? While we liked the floor of our Georgetown gasser you could never get us to go back to one just for the difference in the ride and the noise and the fact that it doesn't sound like its going to explode trying to maintain 62 mph going up a small hill while in cruise control.
nemo45 03/04/14 01:58pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Need help Norcold 1200 with a Amish cooling unit

For those reading this with a NorCold 12xx: As DSDP Don said, there are two different thermistors and yes I bought the correct one as a spare several years ago for $15. It's easy enough to check your thermistor by holding the Temp and Mode buttons down until you get 1 and then using the Mode go to #3 where it will show the temp of your fins. I found a NorCold PN 628661 control board on Ebay for $100. Should be here this week. My inverter/Charger is a Xantrex Trace RV2012 2000W and there really is a 33% reduction in charger output using the generator and I'm not the only one with this problem. If my charger would put out 70 amps for more than 15 minutes that would be fine but at 40 amps it takes three hours to get to float charging on a 800AH battery bank from more than 50%. Another 04 Dynasty owner's numbers were even worse and installing a PSW I/C solved the problem. Granted I can buy a lot of diesel instead of an new bigger I/C but in most of the places I stay, I already stick out. Put a pencil to it, $2000 at $3.65/gal. for diesel is 548 gallons. Would it be worth it? Not when you figure while you are running the generator the refrigerator and all other appliances are running off of it too and not the inverter. Three hours to charge your batteries from 50% doesn't seem out of line to me. Don't get what you mean by "sticking out". Here's hoping a new board will take care of your problem, cause if it doesn't I think a Samsung is in the offing.
nemo45 03/04/14 11:38am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tire brand recommendation.

Take a look at the Hankook AH-11. One of the best prices, SMOOTH ride, handles well and is holding up well. X-2 those babies gave me a much smoother ride. The Hankooks are made in factories all over the world including the U.S.Tires and which ones to buy is like arguing which tooth paste to use. I would stick with name brand ones and not some off the wall brand you never heard of before.A lot of people use Hankooks and are happy with them. I personally won't use anything else. Great tires at a reasonable price.......... And no I'm not a Hankook salesman.Correction...Hankook will open a plant in Clarksville Tn and employ 1500 American workers. Opening date ? Sometime in 2016.. I am looking at Hankook AH-11 to replace the Goodyear 265/70/22.5's I have now. What size AH-11 would be best for this. By the chart it looks to me like it would be the 12R22.5's.
nemo45 03/04/14 10:01am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Looking at new Gasser

The ride and engine noise now in the back would make me never move back to my Winnebago gasser Actually my fuel cost per mile computed given current Oregon pricing is .05 per mile less on my diesel, the price is 20% more per gallon but I am getting 33% better fuel economy 7 vs 9.3 mpg now Ditto! Also the fact that I can actually use my cruise control with my diesel pusher.
nemo45 03/04/14 09:33am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Need help Norcold 1200 with a Amish cooling unit

Ivylog....Sorry...I didn't mean to side track the post with the residential refer. I did a BUNCH of stuff to my Norcold to make it perform at a reasonable level. Something I learned by accident was there are two different thermistors for that refer. I was cruising websites looking to buy a thermistor one day and found a site that asked for the serial number. Apparently, there are two identical looking thermistors for the Norcold, but different part numbers. I ordered the correct one and my refer worked well again for awhile. Sorry, I can't remember the website. I also added two additional computer fans to the exterior and one of the double fans to the interior. In weather under 90 degrees the refer would stay about 34 inside, but NEVER kept ice cream frozen, even though it made ice quickly. As I said, sorry about distracting the post, but the Samsung was the best single improvement ever in my coach. All of the people on the Monaco forums installed it with the MSW inverter and four batteries and are doing just fine. I also think your idea of the costs to convert are a little high. You can get the SS model for $1209 OTD. If you can do your own install, just a few dollars in parts. Your charger issues don't make sense to me and if it's not working properly it seems it would be an issue for other things in your rig. Ivylog, I too apologize for getting off topic. I was just trying to convince you to quit putting good money after bad with the Norcold and bite the bullet and get the Samsung. You, won't be sorry. I agree with DSDP Don. The Samsung was the best single improvement we did to our Tour Master. I tried the computer fans in the back and the one inside and there was some improvement. But still when it got up around 90 deg. the temp inside the refer would go up to at least the mid 40's. I tried changing the fin the thermistor was on to no avail. A repairman told me that if the thermistor was bad it would get too cold in the refer. He said my problem was a weak cooling unit. Basically, I just got tired of fooling around with the No Cold. After looking at the charts that are in the Xantex manual the 3 stage inverter charger will not put out close to 100 amps until the batteries (which would be two of them) get down to 11 volts. At 50% battery charge I think 30 to 40 amps would be proper. The fact that it is a 3 stage charger would be the reason the charge rates would change after charging for a while. This is also evident in the charts that are in the manual. And finally, $1209 is exactly what I would have paid for my Samsung without the $60 delivery charge. I know its a hard thing to do when you've already spent the money on the Amish cooling unit, but we sure love ours.
nemo45 03/04/14 09:26am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Need help Norcold 1200 with a Amish cooling unit

For what it's worth??? We boondock a lot and until last week I had never used shore power to bring my batteries back up... always with the 10K generator. My 100 amp charger has never put out more than 70amps with my batteries at 50% and then only for 10-15 minutes on a 800AH temp regulated bank. Last week I ran them down to 70% and then charged using the generator 30amps and shore power 42amps which explains why I've never gotten 100 amps. Some type of imbalance with the sine wave from the generator and the charger's restive load. I don't get it. Why do you think your charger should put out more than 70 amps when the batteries are at 50% even if it is capable of 100 amps? Isn't it doing the job and getting the batteries back up to 100%. The charger certainly doesn't draw 100 amps to put out 100 amps of charge.
nemo45 03/03/14 05:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: trip to Iowa concerns!

I will be heading to Iowa to HWH factory for a jack upgrade on my Beaver DP the beginning of July. Only time that they have available that month. Question is, I am going to be headed that way the 2nd of July so will be traveling over the 4th weekend. Is it best just to wing it,stop at truck stops on the way... as all RV parks have 3 day reservations only that weekend so 1 night stays aren't going to work. Plan on three days to get there from Florida and arrive the 5th, but have a reservation at a close by park for the weekend...Sat-Sun-Monday.... You worry too much.
nemo45 03/03/14 01:46pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Need help Norcold 1200 with a Amish cooling unit

I realize the Samsung has a DC compressor so no need of PSW. With the additional power needs and a charger that will not put out the 100 amps it's supposed too I would either have to split my battery bank and add another inverter/charger or go with a bigger inverter charger. I would opt for the larger PSW inverter/charger as from my reading it would work better with my generator and come closer to putting out 140amps. If I was buying a newer MH I would opt for the home refer ASSUMING it has plenty of batteries and plenty of charging off the generator. PS: I cannot find any 197's for less than $1400 plus $50 sales tax so sorry if I was off by $50.:W PSS: I still have my auto fire system and smoke detector mounted from the NoCool firebomb days. You are right about the price they have listed on the Samsung 197 at Sears online, it was $1399. But, when I went to checkout on online, Sears was offering a 15% discount on major appliances. That made it $1189. Delivery to the Sears store was free. I then had it delivered to the place that installed it in my motorhome. That made it $1269 total. I could have gone to the store and got it and saved the delivery charge but alas no pickup or trailer. We had this done last July. My motorhome has 8 batteries. Two 12V starting batteries, two 12V house batteries charged by a converter, and four 6V batteries dedicated to the inverter circuit only. They are not used as house batteries. I have no problem maintaining a charge on the inverter batteries whether with the generator or shore power. I don't really think you would either. Although, I've never checked the output of the inverter charger. Even so, with my Xantex inverter, I would have to switch the inverter to charge to charge the inverter batteries, so the Samsung and all other equipment on the inverter circuit would be running off the generator anyway. But then, we are full timers and very seldom boondock unless its at a Walmart overnight and after a day of traveling I usually run the generator until we go to bed and then use the inverter until we get up. I do have two friends that have the Xantex 2000W inverter that use the 6V batteries as house batteries and they both have had no problems with their Samsungs and maintaining a charge on those batteries. One has a 2004 HR Endeavor and the other a 2008 Alfa See Ya.
nemo45 03/03/14 01:42pm Class A Motorhomes
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