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 > Your search for posts made by 'nemo45' found 43 matches.

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RE: Jake brake on or off driving on flats or small hills?

On our previous coach (Dynasty), I used it whenever we started to coast too fast and also to slow down in normal traffic. The cruise would not work if the jake was turned on so I kept it off until I needed it. The Jake would kick off at about 20 mph or so and then you had to use the service brakes. We have a 6 speed retarder on the new coach. MM. Also on mine the jakebrake will not work with the cruise on. I like to use the jakebrake in town where there are stop lights. Makes it much easier to stop for a quick light change.
nemo45 08/18/15 07:16am Class A Motorhomes
RE: PowerGear Warning Light

Probably just need fluid. Ditto have a friend that put up with that for months and finally added fluid and that fixed it.
nemo45 08/18/15 07:11am Class A Motorhomes
RE: truck stop ettiquete

I also try to avoid flying J, Pilot, and Loves and migrate to the less expensive places----Gas Buddy is my friend! Ditto! I have a Pilot/FlyingJ card but since they've merged I've never used it. They are very proud of their fuel. I use Gas Buddy religiously. But with a 42ft. motorhome and a toad, I love the truck stops.
nemo45 07/28/15 08:36am Class A Motorhomes
RE: "Top-of-The-Line" A/C Replacement (Only the best)

Guys, I have removed my ducted dometic A/C unit and installed a non-ducted dometic penguin II with an ADB (air distribution box) with manual controls. The new unit works great and really cools the living room and kitchen better than the ducted unit. The rear unit is still ducted. I did this myself and mainly because I didn't want to replace the thermostat and run wiring back to it. Any hew a/c unit would not work with the old analog thermostat. My problem is once I took the ducted a/c unit out of the wiring loop my furnace doesn't work. I know there were two wires from the a/c control box to the furnace. Well, of course, not now. I know there must be some way I can fool the thermostat to make the furnace work without the a/c but no one has been able to help. I am thinking I could put in a suburban heat only 2 wire thermostat if I could get 12V to it and make it work.
nemo45 06/29/15 11:43am Tech Issues
RE: A/C replacement

Does the five button Tstat still light up? If so it may be as simple as changing the dip switches on the Tstat. Here is a recent post with a phone # of a guy that may be able to help if DougRainer does not chime in. After reading the OP's quote of $4,000 to change his system over I understand why you went with a non ducted unit. I was about to do the same on my Airstream, but he had a rebuilt board for that old Duo Therm unit. I have three of the older Duo Therm units on my 04 Dynasty and even though they all work well, I've found a new, old stock unit as a replacement for $700 delivered that is compatible with the old CCC system. I believe in having spares and while $700 is not cheap insurance... it's better than $4,000+ to change to the new *OP, this trouble shooting guide may help. Mine is the older analog thermostat not five button. It has no dip switches. I'm thinking just buying a cheap heat only suburban thermostat is the simplest way to go.
nemo45 06/26/15 11:38am Class A Motorhomes
A/C replacement

My original front A/C quit putting out cold air. Both the fan and compressor were running. Tech said it was low refrigerant. The unit was operated thru an analog duo-therm thermostat that also operated the furnace. Since I could not replace the A/C unit with another that would operate off the analog thermostat and I would have to install a new digital thermostat and run new wires, I opted to replace it with a unit with an ADB (air distribution box) and mechanical controls and not using the original thermostat. I installed the new A/C and it works perfectly. My problem is now the furnace will not operate without the A/C in the loop. Is there a jumper I need to put on the old thermostat or reconnecting some of the wires then went to the old A/C or replace the thermostat with another that will just operate the furnace? Does anyone know how I can remedy this problem.
nemo45 06/26/15 09:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hankook tires Where to buy North East USA

Here is the problem with Simple Tire, just found out when I hit shipping charges. Hankook are $251, good price :) Continue... shipping plus FET for one tire is $104 :E. Total for 4 tires is $1440, not installed, 1414 if you ship to an installer. The installer is probably very happy to install the tire you bought on the Web :R I was quoted $1360 installation included at a shop in Connecticut, so it is a no go for simple tire. That's what I ran into, so I bought right from the dealer. The dealers will match simple tires price if you use it for bargaining. At my price of $438 installed. It would be $1933 for four of them installed. That is a good price. That's way too much for installation. They charged me $78 per tire installation or $312 for four.
nemo45 05/22/15 09:53am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Generator on for Ac while traveling

Holy cow! Does a motor home like that come with a driver too?
nemo45 05/20/15 04:53pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Generator on for Ac while traveling

You need to exercise your generator under load anyway. What better time than on a long hot drive? I find that we often go from full hookup to full hookup; therefore, if we want to exercise our generator, we need to do it while hooked up (waste of fuel) or while driving. I'd rather run it while driving because it takes a load off of my alternator. In your case, your alternator is probably not powering the A/C, but at least you won't waste the fuel exercising the generator while you are hooked up. Ideally, of course, you'd boondock at least once a month and exercise it there. That way you don't waste any fuel at all. What makes you think that YOUR alternator is running your roof a/c? Only the thermostat is operated on 12V on the roof a/c. What load is the 110V generator going to take off your 12V alternator? Plus running your generator every time you travel is a waste of fuel if you do it more than once a month for an hour. We are full timers and stay in one spot sometimes for as much as 5 mos. so we have to exercise our generator monthly.That's an odd question, but in case you are sincere, I can tell you that I have a 210 Amp alternator (over 2,500 watts) that charges my 16 batteries while I'm under way. I have two inverters, one for the Kitchen A/C and refrigerator and one for the rest of the coach. When I'm traveling down the road with the generator off or if I'm boondocking with the generator off, I can run my Kitchen A/C off of the batteries. If the engine is turned on, the batteries will charge from the alternator. I also have solar panels to help charge the batteries, but, as you probably know, they don't produce enough power to keep the batteries charged after running the A/C for any length of time. The ability to run the A/C off of batteries is a great feature of this coach. It means that while I'm boondocking, I can go to sleep with the generator off and the A/C will continue to run. With the autostart on the generator, I need not worry about draining the batteries either because the generator will kick on to recharge them at a certain voltage. And finally, no, I don't run the generator every time I travel. In fact, I rarely run it while I travel. I only run it if I need to exercise the generator anyway. Well, I was sincere. I have never heard of a setup like that. We have one 2500 watt inverter and eight batteries and neither a/c is on the inverter circuit. I have 4-6V batteries for the inverter, 2-12V starting batteries and 2-12V deep cell batteries for the coach 12V charged by a converter. Most of my friends who have DP's have 6 batteries, 4-6V on the inverter and 2-12V starting batteries with no converter. The coach 12V is supplied by the inverter batteries on this setup. I know I have a 210 amp alternator also but not sure if it will charge all of my batteries. I do know that when we pull into a spot after traveling the inverter batteries always show a full charge after using it while driving. Now, 16 batteries? Eight for the inverters, two for starting and two for the coach 12V. What are the other two for? Sincerely asking. Bad enough I have to buy half that many,
nemo45 05/20/15 01:58pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hankook tires Where to buy North East USA

I paid $2899 in McAllen Texas installed, balancing and new valves included. That's $483.16 per tire. I know that doesn't help you with an installation place in your area, but it will give you an idea on pricing. I bought these in April they are 275/70/22.5's. I am an FMCA member and was going to get Michelins but they would have been $1000 more even with the FMCA discount. Very happy with them so far.
nemo45 05/20/15 10:03am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Generator on for Ac while traveling

You need to exercise your generator under load anyway. What better time than on a long hot drive? I find that we often go from full hookup to full hookup; therefore, if we want to exercise our generator, we need to do it while hooked up (waste of fuel) or while driving. I'd rather run it while driving because it takes a load off of my alternator. In your case, your alternator is probably not powering the A/C, but at least you won't waste the fuel exercising the generator while you are hooked up. Ideally, of course, you'd boondock at least once a month and exercise it there. That way you don't waste any fuel at all. What makes you think that YOUR alternator is running your roof a/c? Only the thermostat is operated on 12V on the roof a/c. What load is the 110V generator going to take off your 12V alternator? Plus running your generator every time you travel is a waste of fuel if you do it more than once a month for an hour. We are full timers and stay in one spot sometimes for as much as 5 mos. so we have to exercise our generator monthly.
nemo45 05/20/15 09:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Generator on for Ac while traveling

Thanks for all the input. I didn't know if that was a norm or not. Our class A has about 32,000 miles but right at 100 hours on the genny. So when I was doing my math either the previous owner didn't run it much in the summer, didn't use the ac, or I am just wrong on the amount of hours I feel it should have. This is what got me thinking. Thankfully I asked because I would have been flipping out if the air shut off with a quarter tank left. LOL Thanks for all the advise We have never had to run the roof a/c while we were on the road and we have traveled while the temp was 97 deg. Quite frankly I was surprised how well our dash a/c works especially for a 2006 model motor home and it being a DP with the engine in the rear. It could be the design of the motor home itself as we have sliding doors between the kitchen area and bathroom area and between the bathroom area and bedroom and we keep them closed when traveling. Having a 100 gal. fuel tank I have never let the tank level get under 1/4. We have a residential refrigerator and really don't even need to put the inverter on invert if we travel for 8 hrs. or less as the newer refers are very well insulated. But we do, I mean after all what do we have the inverter for? I run the generator once a month for one hour under load and have used it several times for overnight at a walmart or when we have lost shore power. It seems to be running very well. So, I wouldn't waste the fuel running the roof a/c underway if I didn't need it.
nemo45 05/20/15 09:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Self Installation of a 2014 CR-V Roadmaster Base Plate

Looking over the instructions on the Roadmaster EZ-4 for my 2014 CR-V I see a step where there is a part that needs to be cut away. How hard was that to remove and what tool did you use to remove it. Thanks for all Comments! I helped a buddy of mine install a blue ox base plate on his 2011 Honda CRV it took us about 7 hrs. and you must read the instructions as you are doing it. After that experience when it came to doing my Equinox I paid to have it done. Money well spent. If you do it yourself, when you wire the car for turn signals and brake lights make sure you put diodes in those lines.
nemo45 05/19/15 10:33am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Getting Rid of a Residential Refrigerator

I would like to see the links to the Thor Plazio residential fridge problems I Here is one discussion by new apprehensive owners of a Thor unit. http://www.thorforums.com/forums/f4/any-experience-how-long-you-can-go-battery-power-525.html I have no dog in this hunt so did not do more research. I see no mention of any problem with the RR itself. We have four 6V batteries dedicated to the inverter itself. We also have two 12V deep cells for the house batteries charged by a converter. Plus the two 12V starting batteries. Its been a great setup for us. We seldom boondock except in an occasional Walmart. But, then if you're boondocking I doubt if there is a quiet time. We have traveled over 10 hours with the RR on the inverter and still had better than a 1/2 battery charge when we put it back on charge.
nemo45 04/20/15 02:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Getting Rid of a Residential Refrigerator

In starting this topic I was looking for a post from someone who has actually done an upgrade to RV fridge, or heard of it being done, to a coach that was not originally offered with one from the factory. But thus far no one has come forward with such a tale. Anyone? I wonder why? It's because nobody has been dumb enough to do that!
nemo45 04/19/15 04:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Getting Rid of a Residential Refrigerator

The "entry level" of Class A motorhomes, with Freightliner chassis, has stopped offering the RV refrigerator, insofar as I can tell. Winnebago, Fleetwood, Thor, for example. I'm thinking that the need for external venting could become a big deal in a conversion. This is certainly not true. Most gassers are offering residential refrigerators now too. And, on some they are standard equipment. Plus you don't need a pure sine wave inverter for many of the new residential refrigerators. I have been running my Samsung RF197 over two years on my Xantex modified sine wave with absolutely no problems.
nemo45 04/19/15 12:36pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Getting Rid of a Residential Refrigerator

Never heard of anyone wanting to junk a residential refer and install a fire hazard. I'll keep our residential What Don said!
nemo45 04/19/15 12:21pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Honda CRV

They are good, but the fastest I've seen is a man with a Toyota Yaris. He had a tow dolly. Quickly pulled right up on it, a couple straps, 1 plug, and drove off. :) 4 down vs. 2 wheel dolly is a hard debate when I see stuff like that. But if I was going 4 down, it would be a CRV. Well its not a hard debate for me. I've had both and towing 4 down is faster even with setting up the brake. And my wife doesn't have a nervous breakdown trying to drive the car up on the dolly.
nemo45 04/09/15 08:55am Dinghy Towing
RE: Honda CRV

With the new CR-V's no longer towable 4 down, I suspect that the towable years will become relatively sought after as used cars,expressly to be towed. Our 2010, with Navigation, does not require the pulling of the fuse. It only has about 70k on it, but I get new car fever way too often. Was planning on replacing it with a new CR-V but will definitely not be. Having dealt with the poor reliability of Jeeps in the past, our only other choice would be a Subaru, but they can't be towed as automatics. Which my wife insists on. In my experience, the CR-V is the best choice as a dinghy for a gas coach. You better check your owners manual. They all say to pull a fuse. If you're looking for a good toad the Chevy Equinox and GMC Terrain are great toads. Been towing mine 4 yrs. with absolutely no problems. My daughter has a Subaru Forrester its a very dependable car but very noisy compared to my Equinox and the ride isn't as good and there is much more room for passengers. For that matter the CRV doesn't ride as good nor is there as much room for passengers especially in the rear. This has been told to me by several CRV owners that have ridden in my Equinox and my daughter.
nemo45 04/09/15 08:49am Dinghy Towing
RE: Charging House Batteries

Verify that you have a transfer switch or whether you must plug the genset into a receptacle in the shore power cord compartment. If equipped with transfer switch or if you must plug into a receptacle, the converter should charge the batteries. That is if you are in deed talking house batteries and not chassis battery. I was just going to suggest this. My old gasser which actually was newer than the DP I have now did not have a transfer switch and the power cord had to be plugged into a receptacle in the compartment the power cord goes in. My converter was also in that compartment. Needless to say it did not take me long to put a transfer switch with a built in surge protector in that compartment.
nemo45 03/17/15 01:56pm Class A Motorhomes
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