RE: Too Early to Start Thinking???
We figure it took about 12 years for us to get to full-timing if you include retirement from our jobs, lots of prep. It's best done in stages, so you are not starting too soon. Some lessons from our experience:
- debt management (by the time we were ready to full-time, we had no debt except for home mortgage, and we sold the home upon full retirement)
- trying to determine the right motorhome (we went thru two travel trailers and two motorhomes before settling on our current Class A - it is perfectly suited for full-time living for two, + occasional overnight visitors - grandkids)
- LOTS of travel in those different units to gain camping experience, become comfortable with dry-camping and boondocking, + really learn to budget travel
- the gifting or sale of almost everything we owned was doable when worked on over several years; the final sale of the home and remaining property finally SET US FREE of most all our possessions, and we've never felt less stress than now - when we own and/or have 'nearly nothing'..... HA!
And it was TOTALLY WORTH IT to get here. Good luck!
RE: The Grand Plan
"Anyone else who's done this trip have any good advice for me just getting out of the gate in our plans? Would love to hear from others who have done this."
It was scary to think we would just leave home for months on end. But one of the things we learned in our first year is just how much stuff we DIDN'T need. Take only 'the bare minimums' - you'll soon find you really won't need some of that!
Our 'budget' was to freeball it for the 1st year, within reason. Obvious big costs were fuel and camping fees. We found that both those can be lowered by longer stays (weekly rates) and by slowing down to 55 ALL THE TIME.
And over the first year, we soon learned that in addition to a great cell phone, a good mobile hotspot of your own (we use Verizon's Mifi) for internet access is nearly mandatory. And learn about what a great thing Skype is - with a cheap webcam (ours was $20) talking face to face with grandkids was free & priceless.
As for travel tips, look for a series of books called 'Off the Beaten Path' - the best thing we've found to find really unique things to see and do. And we use Trip Advisor and RVParkReviews websites almost daily. Finally, we follow the "230 Rule" - no matter what time we start out each day, we don't drive more than 230 miles and/or stop by 230 in the afternoon. It's a relaxing way to travel.
Full-timing is truly an adventure, treat it like one, and don't sweat the small stuff. Enjoy.
RE: Docking on your own land
That is the setup we have. Our semi-permanent RV spot near the Great Smoky Mountains is the only 'residence' on about 100 acres - only other buildings are barns/sheds. Our only 'neighbors' are a couple of horses and lots of wildlife.
As for utilities, we have RV hookup boxes (20,30, and 50 amp) mounted on the power pole & wired directly to the 200 amp breaker box - that was originally (and could be again) used for a large mobile / manufactured home. The gravel that was under the mobile home serves as a really great & level parking spot!
So, if you find a suitable piece of property what I would do is to 'legally' set up the property and utilities to function as a site for a mobile home, then put your camper there. That way if you ever give up full-timing, you could easily place a mobile home there, and live comfortably, easily, and cheaply. That is, if you don't mind "trailer living"... as a RV'r, you shouldn't have a problem.
We still travel & stay in campgrounds, but while at home for any amount of time, 'The Spot' is our only ticket. And you can't beat our privacy, priceless!
RE: Full time RV costs...
"I can't work" - certainly not asking you directly, but since you mention SSD, I would assume you have a physical disability?
If so, please check this program:
http://store.usgs.gov/pass/access.html
The Access Pass is free (IF you qualify - doctor's statement needed) from the National Park Service. It's good for your lifetime, and it will cut expenses considerably at federal facilities - no park entrance fees, and check out the 1/2 price on campgrounds benefit! Accepted at any national park and it's even good at TVA campgrounds (which, after all, are federal facilities) here in our home area of the TN Valley. We use this pass and the Passport America program as often as possible.
Added on edit:
You may also qualify for a free (government-sponsored) cell phone and calling plan with up to 250 minutes. Check this federal program:
http://www.freegovernmentcellphones.net/basics/qualify
Good Luck!
RE: Black Tank Chemical Product Find
Basic kit only costs about $65 and the users say it uses less than a quart of chemical per month. No more adding chemicals + you can dump anytime you want (without wasting added chems). Sounds pretty cool to us.
"Less then a quart of chemical per month". WOW! I still believe in using a chemical but a quart will usually last me 2 seasons and a lot less then $65.
Well - good for you, but nobody said the chemical costs $65 a quart, that's just wrong. I only use water, so mine's completely free, I don't add anything to the tank at all. His is just another way.
And that is the point of the OP - somebody is trying to introduce a product that he himself uses and likes. I for one appreciate that. It may not be for you (or me) but at least he's willing to share with others. Whatever his motivation, it may be beneficial to somebody.
Yet many people are quick to jump on him and pile on criticisms of not just the product, but to imply that he's an idiot for using it.
I personally feel the idiots are the ones who boldly proclaim that their way is the best way, the only way, and any other ways are totally beneath them. At some point, people will just quit posting -rather than be continually flamed just for trying to help somebody with a good idea or a new product.
RE: Black Tank Chemical Product Find
But who cares. As I read about the product on this website, it seems like a pretty good deal... in short, it dispenses holding tank chemicals only when you flush the toilet by "adding itself" into the water line.
Basic kit only costs about $65 and the users say it uses less than a quart of chemical per month. No more adding chemicals + you can dump anytime you want (without wasting added chems). Sounds pretty cool to us.
RE: How far in a day???
We follow the simple "230" rule: No matter what time we leave to move, we never drive more than 230 miles a day, and/or we always stop driving before 230 pm.
That gives us time to both setup camp and relax a little before dinner - this has made our travel a lot less stressful. Of course, being full-timers, we're in no hurry anyways.
RE: how accurate are the NADA prices?
I find NADA and Kelly Blue Book helpful - but to get what I would consider a more accurate and true value, I call my credit union and ask them what their loan numbers are on the unit... they're happy to give them to you cause it may get them some business. And you can get a real good idea of how much it's really 'worth' to a prospective buyer - just by seeing how much a credit union will loan on it.
RE: Full Time Class C or Class A
Class A - good choice. We had a Class C for about 8 years. Great for vacation traveling, but wouldn't like full-timing in one. So with a Class A we have followed the same plan you have now - stay a week or three, see things, and move on. We tow an older soft-top Jeep Wrangler, lightweight and one of the easiest to set up / pull. It's great whether at the beach (with the top down!) or in mountain snow.
As for the MH, a big thing for us was having s e p e r a t e spaces - as in a totally separate bedroom from the living area, a Class A does that with plenty of room to spare. We really LOVE our Bounder, check those out at:
http://www.fleetwoodrv.com/bounder
Of course you can get used ones for way less than half the cost of a new one. Great storage and it's a 4-SEASON coach, loaded with great amenities - everything we need. Our 37-footer suits us great, and it's roomy enough to have a couple of guests with little discomfort. Actually, it's bigger than my apartment in college.
As an example, here's a video of a Bounder walk-around:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t65OHHE8mSA
As you can see - all of us like talking about our personal coaches, but whichever you pick - good luck, living the full-time dream has been even better that we anticipated!
RE: Weight Police! Where you at?
Yes, Weight Police, where were you on this one:
http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s667/normared/HOSKINS/163344_316561038455099_1714545036_n_zps6b8490c1.jpg
RE: OK Which RV Insurance
Hate to jump on the bandwagon - but we recently switched our stand-alone motorhome policy from Good Sam / GMAC (due to rate increases) to Progressive. Very easy to deal with on the front end, great website, and the price was lower than the more than 6 other companies I checked. It appears that other campers experience with their claims process has been good also.
Here's another recent conversation about this topic:
http://www.rv.net/forum/Index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26743790/gotomsg/26744171.cfm#26744171
RE: Anyone installed a product called "Cheapheat" ?
Thanks for the post, I had never heard of this product... and all good points. But using small electric heaters does not address the issue in my MH and many others - they need warm air to go {through the duct work} to heat the plumbing and holding tank areas. A ceramic, electric, or baseboard heater (even 'mounted' inside the living area) won't do that.
We do use small heaters as a supplement, but in temps less than about 35 we MUST use the propane furnace - just to heat the holding tanks and plumbing areas. This electric heater that runs thru the duct work would also accomplish that task.
RE: Braking system for Jeep Wrangler
We have a 97 Jeep Wrangler and use the BrakeBuddy system. Easy peasy. But I agree that in the flatlands of Texas you may not even need a supplemental system.
One could consider the opinion to really worry about would be your insurance carrier... may be worth a close check of your MH policy, or even call them 'anonymously' to see if the lack of a supplemental would be a problem in the event of an accident. That's really what I'd worry about I guess - the worst case scenario.
RE: RV Insurance
Check out the thread comments on these pages. It does pay to shop around, as price varies wildly - yes, that's WILDLY, not widely!
http://www.rv.net/forum/Index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26669648/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1.cfm
Don't blindly pay your bill each time, and keep close track of price changes. Good Sam / GMAC recently raised my rates considerably - so I compared no less than 6 different companies' rates, and ended up with Progressive RV Insurance.
We'll see how their price compares in a year, as I got my policy coverage paid in full for 12 months, not just 6 months. I'll change companies at every renewal if I have to, I'm just not going to quietly 'absorb' the ridiculous cost increases once their slick marketing scheme using the Good Sam name (or AARP, or AAA name for that matter) wears off and they raise the price...
Be sure to check out Progressive's 'windshield clause' ($0 deductible for windshield replacement) - it's a good thing to know to ask for.
RE: why do i have 2 6 volt batts
And don't make the mistake of thinking you can just change it to one 12-volt battery... it is possible, and it will work - but it most certainly WILL NOT work as well (as two 6-volt batteries together). Don't spare a dime to spend a dollar.
There are 12 volt batteries available that will have equal or higher AH ratings than a pair of 6 volt. The restricting factors are weight, size and budget. Amp hour rating being equal, 6 volt does not outperform 12 volt.
Yes, I said it was possible, and that it would work. The main issue here is changing out two six volts to one 12 volt, and whether it would perform as well. Anything is possible with enough money - that is not the point. As others stated, it is "bang for your buck." I've used both the 12-volt and 6-volt setups in different configurations, and I just simply disagree with the opinion that ONE 12-volt is better than TWO good 6-volt batteries...
My units with 12-volt batteries (with either one batt or two, both true deep-cycle) didn't near meet the performance of my current setup, which has multiple 6-volt batts. That is my PREFERENCE based on decades of personal experience & performance of the setups I've had.
But that is what this forum is all about - opinions - and that does not make mine (nor yours) any more valid that the next one. No one has the market on what is absolutely best for everyone else. Therefore, there is no use arguing about other people's opinions or postings.
RE: Another scam example
Good points. NEVER ever pay for anything by Western Union. These 'payments' are easy to get and practically untraceable, which is what the scammer wants of course. Don't know why anyone would anyway, but a request for a Western Union payment is the biggest flag of all in spotting a scam.
RE: why do i have 2 6 volt batts
And don't make the mistake of thinking you can just change it to one 12-volt battery... it is possible, and it will work - but it most certainly WILL NOT work as well (as two 6-volt batteries together). Don't spare a dime to spend a dollar.
RE: Newbie Introducing myself
Welcome newbie! You all may want to do a search for work-camping positions on here or at workcamper.com. Parking for free on a relatives land is great, but you may just find a way {to get paid} simply by camping in a nice CG and agreeing to work for a few hours each week. It's a great way to full-time on a budget. Good Luck!
RE: Rate keeps going up
FYI for those that may be interested, however few there are out there:
After weeks of shopping, ended up with Progressive Insurance (even though I strongly dislike / disagree with the owner's politics) for several reasons:
- price, of course = they beat others by at least $100 for a paid-in-full policy (covers for 12 months, not just 6). Progressive was lowest, Geico was highest.
- Progressive offers a 'MH windshield coverage clause' with a ZERO deductible for the glass (windshields = one of the most common claims, along with awnings)
- Progressive also offers a liability policy for full-timers -similar to homeowners insurance- which would cover you in case someone was hurt (ex. the "repairman" you hired out of your campground to fix your roof, and he falls off - you could be liable). I found this feature important and very reasonable cost at only about $55 for the entire year of coverage.
Bonus: Progressive website was top-notch, easy to get a quote, easy to setup an online account to get your policy and payment info
Cons:
If you are one that needs to make payments instead of paying in full, Progressive requires those payments be an electronic funds transfer (taken straight from you checking or savings account).
I don't like that, so I make that a con, but it's really the only I found in my choosing of a new insurance company - an action taken only after GMAC raised my rate over $300 per year for no reason related directly to me.
If you're shopping for coverage, I hope this helps you.
