Show prices aren't good prices on average. You can get better deals from dealers actually looking to sell volume any day of the week. Show or no show.
Several good responses, but this summed it (them) up very well.
Never attended an RV show, where I couldn't beat the "show price" with very little effort..:R
Giving that a try -even if you don't buy- is a real "eye opener"!.:W
"flyinjake" - if you have narrowed down the floor plan, options, etc - you know you want......the first step is out of the way.
Shows and show prices are -as many indicated- just "come-ons" for the gotta have it now, 'cause its a hot deal folks.
If you are willing to order a unit - you are in the driver's seat, even if a 5th wheel doesn't have one, LOL!
Use the show and visits to dealer's lots to firm up which brand you want - or will accept (second choice?).
Line up your own financing if you need it.
Now - work the Internet far and wide for dealers of the brand/s you want, telling them *exactly* what you want, including options.
All comparison pricing always - "apples to apples".
The best price you find is now your "benchmark".
Doesn't matter if it's out-of-state, or across the country.
Don't forget delivery charge (to the dealer) and whatever taxes and license fees that apply to your purchase - or will apply if bought out of state.
Shop your benchmark price around to your local (or closer) dealers to
see if they will meet, beat - or come close to that price.
Now you must decide - travel (if so, how far?) for the best price, or buy close to home.
BTW - the shows:
Whomever is putting on the show "includes and excludes" - not all the dealers in the area for any brand will be there. One of each is the norm.
The dealer who *isn't* there often has the better price - for the same thing..;)
Dealers "saturate" the shows with sales folks who often know less than you do about the brand they are representing (selling)..:(
(Show) buyer beware!
A couple of weeks ago I heard the dreaded crunch from
an Rv'er that forgot to put his tailgate down (backed
into the 5ver pin).
Hey, I did that when we had our fifth wheel. Put a helluva dent on the tailgate but didn't hurt the trailer a bit.
Now that we own a TT, that dent provides an excellent reference point for me to line the receiver up with the trailer tongue since the dent is dead center on the tailgate. :B
The two best reasons for an aftermarket "V" tailgate:
1. No need to put it down to hitch/unhitch = no dents.
2. Your factory tailgate will *not* "grow legs".
#2 applies to factory tailgates even if you never tow anything.
Tailgates are a "gone in ten seconds", un-traceable, high-demand, "viscous circle" theft item..:(
*If* you use a factory tailgate - use your best choice for securing it, even if it's just the "hose clamp trick" to block the slot on the bed 'receiver' post.
Check the replacement cost!..:W
Sorry, I had to pick a catchy title to get the clicks....
Only 63 views so far...bet you'd get a lot more if you added "PICTURES!" to the thread title! :B
Thought it said he had to pick a catchy title to get the CHICKS !!..:W
If that was me - and they could see in - there would be laughing and no catching, LOL
BTW - get some lined curtains - hang them on the interior side of your day/night shades.
The chickens won't cackle & the roosters won't....
I live in the central valley of California where we experience relatively mild winters. Usually down to the low 40's high 30's is the coldest we'll get. I didn't winterize our trailer, but did drain all tanks and lines. My question is we were in the high 20's last night and its supposed to get colder tonight, should I run the heater on a low setting to insure no issues or not worry about it? The trailer is stored on the side of our house plugged in to keep the batteries charged.
Look at the locations of the posters who reply.
Yep, if you're in Illinois, Minnesota, Colorado or other areas subject to low temps and *serious* freezing, you need to winterize.
But - you're in CA - you know, the place they love to bash, LOL!
RVs in CA since 1970 - never drained the tanks or needed a heater during periods of storage.
"Winterize" just means a different camping season!.;)
Now - there are parts of CA that also get serious cold weather!
But, you know where they are - where we go to ski & snowboard - like the Sierras, Tahoe, etc.
You've drained the tanks - so you have that covered.
Pass on the "pink stuff" in the lines.
If it makes you feel better, pour some into the drains (sinks, etc.) where water will sit in the "P-traps".
A space heater is *NOT* "inherently dangerous" and for your peace of mind an electric heater on a low setting would be fine - and (IMO) a better choice over the furnace.
Depending on the state you are in your DOT most likely has standards for how long the yellow needs to be. But as a traffic engineer I can tell you there are a lot of variables across the states. There are recommended formulas to follow but they do not work in all situations. And our fellow human beings add to the problems. A few years back signals were pretty straight forward. They stayed green for a certain time, then yellow for a couple seconds then at the instant the yellow turned to red the other directions green would turn on. This caused problems as larger intersections could still have vehicles crossing when the other direction got the green. The answer is to add clearance time. The width of an intersection can be rather large so extra time would be built into the yellow time to allow vehicles to clear before the opposing light turns green. So we add in clearance time and then we have our fellow humans that are always in a hurry. Humans are smart. They learn quickly that the other side will not get the green light right away as they now have 5 seconds of yellow so why stop? So what the smart DOT people came up with was an all Red time. Take 2 of those 5 seconds of yellow time and make it an all red time. So you have 3 seconds of yellow and 2 seconds of all red. Same clearance time but humans are less likely to run the all red making the interesection safer. So there is your signal light lesson for the day.
Now to your "can't get stopped in 3 seconds" problem. It is my understanding that it is only illegal to enter the intersection after the light is red. If you are entering when yellow you are legally entering the intersection. And if you legally entered it you can legally exit it. Personally as I approach an intersection I pick a point of no return. Once I get to that point and the light has not turned yellow, I am going through the intersection. Most Officers understand that a large truck and trailer can not stop on a dime and that it is safer to continue through the intersection than it is to jam on the brakes.
Paragraphs are often the difference between reading -or skipping- a post..;)
BTW - credit is due for two.
I've read that anything that contains petroleum distillates should not be used on tires.
Very perceptive writers (and reader)!
Before Michelin came out with their own tire care products, 303 was
the only acceptable (Michelin) tire treatment.
Admit to using Armor All and your warranty was history.
A friend had a shop dedicated to "exotics" in the 1970s.
The Armor All "no-no" to his customers was at the top of his care criteria.
The brand has changed owners at least twice in recent years.
The formula for Armor All may have been "cleaned-up" (revised) as it was common knowledge *not* to use Armor All on tires, upholstery, etc. - due to the petroleum products in the product.
Although the Armor All site FAQs would seem to indicate petro is still there..:(
303 and other choices are out there - users just have to do a bit of research on the contents..;)
I might be wrong here but it seems to me that I had read an article that even 303 is bad for tires or any thing rubber for that matter. I am surprised they still sell that stuff.
You are - wrong here..:(
You're confusing 303 with Armor All which contains petroleum products.
Of course, you could re-locate the article and post a link.........:W
On edit, FAQs for each avail on the product's web sites -
"Armor All Extreme Tire Shine products contain silicone, petroleum solvent and a fragrance."
303 Aerospace Protectant:
"303 Aerospace Protectant is a water based proprietary formula that contains NO petroleum distillates, alcohol, mineral oil or harmful silicone oil."
There was a time when I was on the bleeding edge of computer technology because I wanted to be.......
When I see statements like the above - I chuckle and think about the "bleeding edge".....like business apps with IBM 1401, 7094, 360, etc.
And *90* column round-hole punched cards.
Shirt and tie *required* at Douglas Acft.
"Rank specific" ID badges for grunts through big shots.
Then, on to scientific apps at System Development Corp. (SDC).
Wore whatever you wanted - shorts and Hawaiian shirts = fine!
Everybody had the same type of badge/ID - all with 'Secret' Clearance minimum.
No way to tell the pres of the company from the janitor - w/o knowing their names, LOL!
The first week I was there, somebody points to a group of guys and says - "There's Jules Schwartz!"
Me - OK, so where's his brother Herbie?
"No, no! Jules Schwartz - you know the 'creator' of JOVIAL."
.... As in - "Jules Own Version Of The International Algorithmic Language".
Was still going strong in 2010 !!
Besides the "modern stuff" early "bleeding edge" at SDC was a first gen computer with floor to ceiling banks of drawers chock full of vacuum tubes - a second gen computer with a building built *around* the computer (pd for by IBM) with oil filled (for cooling) core - which was the first time-share computer.
BTW - that 1st gen computer was still in use at the time (late 60's) by the AF as part of the Western Defense Sector for NORAD.
It's console was later used for 'gee whiz' on the deck of the Star Ship Enterprise. Beam me up, Scottie!
So I moved on to be a shift supervisor for a DPF&G service center with a room full of UNIVAC 1108 stuff. Great pay and perks!
But, said enough of all this and decided putting wet stuff on the red stuff would be lots more exciting.
Only regret - why didn't I do that sooner?
Sure glad I did - made me "jovial" - - 'cause personal computers came along and all you folks inherited the next generation of fun and games!!..:B
Does anyone have experience, private or otherwise, in purchasing an RV park?
If he doesn't reply to your thread (might not see it), try a PM (private message) to "westernrvparkowner" - he's on the boards and dispenses "wisdom"(?) regarding parks, etc.
Western RV Park Owner
Believe his park is somewhere in Montana.
Good luck with your venture.
I know these facts, TT tires are rated at 65 mph, and many people tow doing 70 or more. why? I think they are nuts. So having said that, how fast do the rest of us tow? I am thinking of my first towing to yuma this year, I think I will tow at 62 mph. what say you?
What are "TT tires" ??
Do you mean "ST" tires?.:h
You said, "Many people tow doing 70 or more. Why?"
By now you should have *LOTS* of answers..
You said, "I think I will tow at 62 mph".
Will you drive faster -or slower- depending on the answers?.:h
Did (do) the answers matter?
You said, "I think they are nuts".
IMO - you are nuts for asking..:R..:R..:S
(and that's a fact)
I told them that I wasn't at my computer right now but if they call this number, my office would look after it. I gave them the phone number for the local police non-emergency line.
*YOU* became a telemarketer "assistant" and wasted the PDs time.:(
And, no the person answering at the PD isn't going to do anything about the call..:S
I have a bad back and the eu3000i is heavy so wherever it goes it has to stay there. We plan to buy a used unit so if it doesn't have a generator compartment I guess I'll have to lock it in the truck bed. Perhaps I can find a metal toolbox that is large enough to fit the generator inside. I had a eu2000 previously but it wouldn't run the AC. Thanks for the feedback.
Apparently some posters aren't following your posts..:(
Since you already have the 3000i -and- the trailer you purchase may *not* have a generator compt (which the 3000i won't fit in anyway) -
continue with the truck bed location..:C
It's no problem with a short or long bed p/up..
I keep my gen between the cab and the hitch - in my SB pickup.
Your tool box idea is fine - but think *INVERTED* tool box!.:W
You will never have to lift the gen in or out of the tool box, -and- the gen will also have adequate air flow for cooling and exhaust when in use (box removed)..;)
How to keep it from growing legs?
This sounds way more complicated than it is:
1. Cable lock (or other method) the gen in place in the bed of your truck. Only removed when (if) you wish to take the gen out of the bed for storage, winter, etc.
When you're not using the gen, #2 next - covers & "hides" the gen *AND* your cable lock.
2. Fabricate a "box" to be placed over (open end down) the gen.
The 'box' can be wood or metal. Obviously, metal would be better.
3. Decide on a method to lock the box *TO* the gen - which, without unlocking - means you (or a thief) are attempting to lift the generator underneath.
Since I have a Yam 2400is, this was easy - flat bar slips through two slots in top of the box and under the handles of the gen underneath.
Lock in the bar prevents it from being removed.
When you're ready to use the gen - simply unlock (and remove) the box.
If you planned (designed) well, it's not heavy.
(I can do that without getting in the bed)
BTW - when covered - it's conjecture what's underneath!.:?
You can add a bit of "disguise" if you wish - to give the impression it's firewood, gas cans, or?..:h:h
Ok, read the 12804.10 CVC and still don't see any verbage requiring you show up with a licensed driver. Is this driver required to stay and meet the test examiner? Would he be required to show his license?
IMO - IMO only!
Once you pass a written test you would have a permit - which would require a driver with the same license to be with you when you're practicing driving.
But - No way for the DMV to know if the licensed driver dropped off the MH for you - was in a hurry and went on his way.
Often DMV offices and examiners have their own interpretation
of what (or how much) is required.
Easy way to find out - *ASK* the DMV..:@
BTW - years ago, before CA non-commercial DLs and FF DL's, I was authorized to certify FD drivers for Class B DL. No *driving* test by the DMV required. Another guy in the city yard could certify Class A.
(Neither of us cut anybody any slack - but no way to know if our eventual replacements were easier or tougher - just like the DMV examiners).
The air is too clean. That allows the wind to blow harder and faster, since there is nothing to slow it down. Something about co-efficiency of drag. It's all the EPA's fault. As proof, look at China. Their air is full of soot and smoke, and you don't hear of bad wind over there, right? Probably hasn't been a 5ver overturned in that country in a long while, if ever.
Same for Mexico City..:B