RE: New WW LED 3505 on Ebay - Could be a great deal!
I don't want to down size, Dave :)
John,
Here you go, a 45 Foot 2008 Full Throttle Billet Edition.. only $30K with NO reserve!! You'd need a bigger truck!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/45-foot-weekend-warrior-full-throttle_W0QQitemZ180434560407QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRVs_Campers?hash=item2a02bce597#v4-34
That looks sweet, but the wife would KILL ME! If I even brought it up :) oh plus only one Air conditioner that size needed two maybe three...
http://i.ebayimg.com/20/!Bf,2c1gB2k~$(KGrHqEOKkMEr)l(6YPHBLBLNl6q(g~~_3.JPG
RE: New WW LED 3505 on Ebay - Could be a great deal!
Doing great, Hope the same with you, had not see any posts from you for a while. Your right though almost never see WWs around here. Went to Daytona 500 this year and only one other there besides ours. We race SORCS and SETRA and I have never seen another WW there, mostly Raptors. Its sad...
RE: Another Weekend Warior Roof Issue
Sounds cool David looking forward to the thread. I have so much to do on mine, but theres aways the time and money thing getting in the way.... :)
RE: Another Weekend Warior Roof Issue
If you can't find the leak try a over preasure test...
The RV Leak Detection system makes ingenious use of a very simple fact: air flowing through an opening covered with a soapy water ("surfactant") solution produces a bubble precisely at the opening. The system draws outside air into the RV via the roof vent, where it is dispersed, creating a positive interior pressure. This pressure difference causes air to flow outward through any outer skin faults. The application of a soapy water solution to suspicious areas of the outer skin results in a very visible bubble exactly over each fault.
-John
RE: Another Weekend Warior Roof Issue
John,
With the eterabond do you still need to reseal every 6 months or a year like the other stuff or is it really permanent? AND if is permanent can you remove it without tearing up the roof if you ever need to remove or replace something on the roof?
BTW, hope you are doing well. I currently have my WW up on 4 20-ton stands doing all the undercarriage/suspension upgrades. Hope to be finished with all the welding this week. My EZ-Flex system is due in tomorrow and installing that while I have everything removed. Will post some pics when it is done.
Hey Dave,
I used the eterabond around all the vents, and sky light. Also the front and rear of the roof. Once its on its not fun to remove it. I did caulk over the edges, just as added measure, but its not required. It will peel up without hurting the roof, but it requires elbow grease to clean the area where it used to be.
All's going well, heading up to Tenn to a new riding area, I will post some pics next week. Looking forward to the pics of your newest MODS. I have the EZ flex sitting here waiting to go on too. Just no time right now.
No riding this weekend?
-John
RE: Another Weekend Warior Roof Issue
Ok that does suck, but why does it have to be "Another Weekend Warrior Roof Issue" why not “another RV roof issue.” Most of this stuff is because poor preventive maintenance. Not saying it’s your issue but really most people never climb up there, then remove, clean and re-caulk the seams. It is a pain in the butt! But it must be done every couple years.
I recommend Eternabond, Scrape away all old caulking. Use a plastic scrub pad or sandpaper to clean the surface. Swab with solvent and a rag. Be sure ANY silicone type materials are removed. Seal using strips of RoofSeal or A-Seal around the flange edge to roof interface. Also be sure and cover all screws. Overlap the vent flange to roof surface edge by about 2" in each direction. As always, be sure to thoroughly roll-in the Eternabond to seal it permanently.
Good Luck……
RE: How to drain fresh water?
Mine's not a WW but mine has a dump valve like the one for the gray water but on the other side by the step.
Ditto, just pull it!
RE: Good Bye Yellow Brick Road....(So Cal Style)
While folks are busy arguing about Diesel engine oil, our areas to ride are diminishing. If off road users don't start paying attention and join groups like CORVA and the Blue Ribbon Coalition to stay informed, there will be no place for our kids to ride.
You're right we need to step up.
RE: diesel oil ???
You Amsoil zealots wear me out. I didn’t make my post to start a debate concerning different brands of oil. It appears you Amsoil crackpots never miss an opportunity to thump you bible. You ever think the constant sales pitches are a nuisance, kinda like telemarketers. Give it a rest.
Ditto brother!!!!!!!
RE: diesel oil ???
Nayther, just because something gets dirty doesn't mean you throw it away, just clean it. They have by-pass systems on ships, class 8 trucks, cranes, construction equipment, large gen sets, etc. Those engines work alot harder then a pick up diesel. So why not use it. Don't listen to someone who just say "they don't work," ask "why" don't they work? They can't answer with facts!
Check out FS2500, gulf coast filters, or OPS-1. web sites
RE: diesel oil ???
At work we run a fleet of 4 medium duty trucks. 2 Freightliner FL80's, an IH 7400 and an IH 7500.
We get our trucks serviced every 5,000 miles. A couple of years ago I tried pushing the service intervals to 6,000 miles. What I found is after around 5,000 miles, the trucks will start using oil. Why? Oils break down due to contaminants, heat, etc. I would guess if I installed an elaborate filter system, I could maybe squeeze a few more miles between changes, but I will not jeopardize an engine to save a few dollars.
Oil is cheap compared to an engine. My Duramax I change every 3,000 miles in the summer and every 2,000 in the winter due to extended idle times.
Tell me why or how oil wears out? I’m not sure you know what you’re talking about! Oil does not wear out! The additives in the oil do, but not the oil. And the issue is the wear metals that get into the oil from the engine or the combustion process. If you change your oil every 3000 miles or so. How do you know the health of the engine, you’re guessing brother. Here’s why I’m not guessing:
To safely extend engine oil drain intervals, fluid analysis should be used to monitor changes in the fluid’s properties, the amount of contamination present, the wear and rate of wear occurring and filtration efficiency so that the life of the lubricant is extended as far as possible without causing damage to the engine. While supplemental filtration can minimize wear by removing contamination and wear particles from a circulating system, fluid analysis monitors filtration system efficiency and the resulting level of fluid cleanliness by identifying the type, size and source of particles that have not been removed.
Engine oils contain detergent dispersant additives, which consist of Calcium and/or Magnesium, and are designed to neutralize acids that form during the combustion process. The oil’s Total Base Number (TBN) is based on the amount of these dispersant additives present. Using fluid analysis to monitor TBN can determine at what point the oil should be changed because the additives are no longer able to neutralize the acids being
formed. Because the additive is a blended compound, only the effectiveness of the compound will change while levels of the Calcium and Magnesium elements will not. When TBN drops to below 50% of the starting TBN of the oil when it was new, closer oil monitoring should be considered. TBN should not be allowed to drop any lower than
65% of the starting TBN as acid build-up will be extensive enough to cause a significant increase in the rate of engine wear occurring.
Oxidation, Nitration and Viscosity should be monitored in conjunction with TBN when attempting to extend drain intervals. As Oxidation and/or Nitration increases, strong acids will form causing the TBN of the oil to drop even faster. As Oxidation and Nitration increase so will Viscosity because acids will cause the oil to thicken. Since the
oil is thicker and acids are increasing, corrosive wear will also increase. Eventually the oil will be too thick to properly lubricate wearing components of the engine. These Oxidation and Nitration by-products also create sludge and varnish deposits
Scheduling an oil change is as routine as getting your teeth cleaned. The service garage issues the next appointment when you leave on from the last. Changing engine oil every 3,000 miles assumes your engine is working the same way every day of every week or every month. Not true. Whose vehicle is driven over the same roads at the same speed under the same weather conditions every day? You don’t go on blood pressure medication until your lab tests indicate a need, so why not test your engine oil to learn what’s going on in there? A simple test with some basic understanding help you target your maintenance dollar and even avoid breakdowns.
A sample of your engine oil can reveal a lot about what is happening under your hood. Diagnostics relate engine wear, leaks, cracks and pump failures. Most oil analysis will break down into three major categories: wear & contaminant metals, characteristics like water & air and an overall diagnostic summary of major parts.
In the oil sample, the presence of certain metals can indicate problems of engine wear. For example, high aluminum levels can imply piston, engine block, blower or bearing wear. Chromium in the oil can be symptomatic of compression rings or cams. Excessive copper could be from bearings, bushings or thrust washers. Wearing of the crankshaft, valve train, cylinders and gears may leave high levels of iron in the oil. Even tin is found in the oil resulting from worn engine parts. Just like a blood test the oil can really tell us what is going on inside.
Additive metals are and contaminant metals provide evidence of leaks or pump failures. Typically, air intake problems or coolant leaks will put excess silicon, potassium or sodium into the oil. Looking for contaminant metals doesn’t just mean an oil change but an air filter change and a coolant system assessment.
Physical characteristics of the oil sample can also help diagnose leaks, air intake system problems and over-used old oil. Water and glycol in the oil could mean a cooling system leak. Fuel dilution is when the air/fuel ratio is unbalanced, thus combustion is faulty and fuel leaks or
injector problems should be investigated. Oxidation is measured in absorbance units and climbs as the oil ages. If the value is over 25, change the oil. Nitration is also measured in absorbance units. Nitration products are formed during the fuel combustion process and can be a good indicator of corrosion and oil deterioration. Another physical characteristic is viscosity – the way a fluid flows. Engine oil is carefully designed to operate at a given viscosity under a certain temperature. If the viscosity measure in your oil analysis is too thick or too thin you will need to change the oil.
The test results may sound complicated. Don’t worry about understanding every measurement; it is more important to get the test done and then watch for changes in the analysis next time you have it tested. The cost of an average oil analysis is around $15 and well worth it if you can learn how well your engine is running and target proper maintenance.
RE: diesel oil ???
I solved by not changing my oil! Yup thats what I said I have 90,000 on the truck and 72,000 on the oil. I use an oil bypass filter system (Oil Purification Systems) Every 12,500 I send a sample to the Lab. By doning so I know the health of my engine.
Think about it! why do you change your oil? Because its dirty? if so your hurting the engine because you have dirty. If its not dirty and you change it your wasting money.
Fluid Analysis provides you with a snapshot of what is happening inside your equipment.
It tells you the condition of the lubricant and identifies component wear and contamination
in virtually any application. With OPS’ Tru-Test™ Fluid Analysis program you can identify dirt, wear particles and other contaminants that can cause catastrophic failure or significantly shorten equipment life. And, when you make Tru-Test™ an integral part of your preventive maintenance program, you will be able to:
• Identify opportunities for optimizing filtration performance
• Safely extend oil drain intervals
• Extend equipment life
• Minimize downtime by identifying minor problems before they become major failures
• Maximize asset reliability
http://www.ops-1.com/files/OPS-Guide.pdf
If it works on the class 8 trucks, which I own it works on my Duramax.
Its great to know something is about to go wrong before it does. Sampling will tell you before it breaks.
-John
RE: Hatfield and McCoy Trail System
So what time of year would be best for camping/riding these trails. Look really nice. Heard about them but never been. Are there RV campgrounds and which would be recommended.
We ride them all seasons and like each time of year the same. It would be hard to pick the best time of year.
If you like to see and meet more people obviously during the summer is the time to go, or around TrailFest time which is coming next month.
We ride all times as well, but the fall I like best dry and the color of the leaves....Avoid trailfest. Trust me....
