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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Dump station in the Morro Bay area?

If you are on I 5, the Westly rest stop has a dump on the exit road to get back on the freeway. You have to go through the rest stop first.
Rest stops Cal I 5
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othertonka
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11/11/09 05:43pm |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: Replacing plastic water heater drain plug with anode

If it has a plastic plug, it is probably an Atwood and no anode rod is required or even recommended. As for removing the plastic plug, a six point socket with a short extension is the right tool to use. With the six point socket you will not round off the corners of the plug. And a couple of turns of teflon tape on the plug when you replace it will help the next time you go to remove it. Don't overtighten and the plug will last a long time. (Sorry I don't remember the size of the socket at this time. the MH is not here for me to look)
The worst tool to use is channel locks in my opinion.
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othertonka
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11/11/09 11:38am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Stovepipe Wells RV Park

The hook up camp at Stove pipe wells is operated by a private enterprize and is first come first serve. They only have about 20 sites and they fill up pretty fast, especially over Thanksgiving and Christmas and new years. There is another camp just behind it that is also first come first served operated by the National park service but has no hook ups, but a dump and fresh water are available. The Camp at Furnace creek takes reservation but also has no hookups. It is probably full up for the holiday. (Recreation.gov is the reservation site)
There is a camp acrosss from Furnace creek that is like a parking lot, but there again, no hookups and first come first serve. There is a full hook up park ouside the valley in the panamint springs area on Hwy 190, but then to see Death valley you would have to drive over Towne pass to get to the valley, about 30 miles just to get to stovepipe wells.
Death Valley
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othertonka
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11/10/09 10:25pm |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: Generator and Shore power problem!

That should not have caused any problem. You should list the year and make of your MH to get better answers, But when you are plugged into shore power, all the 120 AC outlets should have been live and the Converter should be charging your batteries and all of the 12 V DC lights and other things should have been working. Now you started the Gen Set and after about 1 minute, the transfer switch should have activated, turning off or disconnecting the shore power and then everything should be running from thr Gen Set. Now try this, turn off the gen set, unplug the shore power and then you will be running off of the batteries and all of the 12 V DC lights and water pump and fans should be running. Make sure that the "Coach" battery disconect switch is in the ON position. Click it ON and Off and you should hear a Clicking sound from the solinoid. Leave it ON and try everything. the 120 V outlets will not be working unless you have an invertor. If nothing works, take a volt meter reading and check the battery for at least 12.3 or 12.4 volts. Report back what you found.
The main thing is that the transfer switch if working will not allow both power sources to run at the same time, it usually defaults to the gen set and turns off the shore power.
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othertonka
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11/10/09 08:19pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Frog steering locked or unlocked?

I am also curios what base plates do you use with this tow bar? This whole set up does not sound safe to me and I would not buy it. And also why would anyone buy this tow bar with the warning (Avoid sharp turns which may damage the tow bar and/or the vehicle). Does anyone every think that they will NEVER have to make a sharp turn? Use this at your own risk in my opinion
Here is what the bar looks like. What do others think of this bar?
Tow Bar
Actually, my son has one, set up to tow a Jeep. No base plates, the brackets bolt to the front bumper. It works just fine.
I have a nearly identical one, made by Valley Industries ( come to think of it, it could be by Reese), that I use to tow an '06 Jeep Rubicon. It works just fine, too.
All in all, we have towed four different Jeeps with these towbars, many thousands of miles, with NO problems!
The sharp turn warning is probably because some idiot jacknifed one and bent it, then sued for damages, or misused/abused it in some other way, then sued. That is the usual reason for such warnings.
If some people saw the OEM towbar for the original VW bug, they would probably have instant heart failure! You can't tow a car with THAT!!!
Steering locked or unlocked? If LOCKED it would make a big difference for the sharp turn statement? But most cars that people tow do not have front bumpers, that is why I asked about base plates. Yes I think it would work just fine for a jeep with the bumpers that most of them have.
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othertonka
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11/10/09 07:19pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Frog steering locked or unlocked?

I am also curios what base plates do you use with this tow bar? This whole set up does not sound safe to me and I would not buy it. And also why would anyone buy this tow bar with the warning (Avoid sharp turns which may damage the tow bar and/or the vehicle). Does anyone every think that they will NEVER have to make a sharp turn? Use this at your own risk in my opinion
Here is what the bar looks like. What do others think of this bar?
Tow Bar
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othertonka
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11/10/09 04:21pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Frog steering locked or unlocked?

I beleive that is a typo in their manual. Here is a clickable to read it your self. I would never tow a toad 4 wheels down without haveing the steering UNLOCKED. If locked it will surly try and go to one side or the other, and then the MH will just have to DRAG it in the opposite direction to get it straight and how long will the tires last doing that?
Tow Bar manual
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othertonka
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11/10/09 04:02pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Protecting your toad wiring harness

I set up my toad wiring with this coiled cord. You install a plug on the front of the toad and a plug on the rear of the MH and then just plug the cord in when you tow. Unplug when you disconnect and stow it in a compartment.
Coiled Cord
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othertonka
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11/10/09 03:39pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Have U driven your class A through 20 degree weather?

I would consider at least an electric hookup RV park. The cost will probably be about the same considering how much fuel you will use running the gen set all night. If you know how much fuel the gen set uses per hour you could figure it out. 1 gallon per hour times 8 hours would be 8 gallons at $3.00 or $4.00 = $24.00 to $32.00. Just a thought, worth doing the math to assist in making an informed decision.
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othertonka
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11/09/09 08:04pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Need a little help with my water heater... w/video

I would suggest if you have not done it yet, is to clean out all of that RUST scale in the burner housing. Get a good round wire brush and some compressed air or a vacumne cleaner and get it out of there. Nice post and glad you got it fixed.
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othertonka
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11/09/09 04:58pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: gray water handle

You can buy the handle at any RV parts place but I would try and find out why it broke. Could need lubrication. And if it was so hard to pull, maybe it is time to replace the whole valve. Not to bad a job, 4 screws.
Handle
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othertonka
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11/08/09 09:19pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Workhorse Brake Failure Update

Is there a part number stamped or the word Bosch on the offending calipers or how do you identify a Bosch caliper with the Phenolic pistons? Just curious, thanks
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othertonka
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11/08/09 09:08pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fresh Water Plumbing Fittings, help needed

After you try all of the methods posted above and get a pretty good seal, Then get one of these fillers, also mentioned in above posts. It will slip down into the filler and will be well below the clamped area and the water goes right into the tank without putting any pressure on your clamped area.
Here is what it looks like and the one with a shut off is the best bet as you can feather the flow to meet your needs.
Filler Hose
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othertonka
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11/08/09 08:31pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Batwing ant

You should go to this web site and enter your zip code and that will bring up all of the TV stations within range that you should be able to pick up. It also gives the direction in degrees, (need a compass) that you need to point your antenna. Your antenna receives it's best signal from the side of the batwing that is opposite the side where the Coax cable enters the batwing. So if for instance the chart says channel 3.1 is at 235 Degrees and it is 30 miles away, point the side of your antenna, using the compass, to 235 degrees and then using the Converter menu, select "Auto Scan" or "SCAN" or something that resembles those words, and let the scan run. Make sure that the TV is set to the same channel that you selected on the converter, CH 3 or CH 4. Now if the web site does not show very many channels close enough to your location, you are out of luck.. If there are many stations at different directions than the direction you are pointed to, you will have to reaim your antenna and SCAN again.
So here is the link. Good luck
Antenna web
On edit, one other thing, make sure that your TV is set to "Antenna" and not "Cable"
Here is a link to another post that has a drawing of the "front" of a batwing.
Batwing direction
Scroll down about 3 posts
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othertonka
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11/08/09 06:52pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: I'm in the dog house

Do you have a model number for your Americana?
You might try PPL, look it up online or better yet give them a call.
Refer parts
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othertonka
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11/08/09 06:33pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Zephyr Cove RV Park and bears....

Move. And a shot gun will only make him mad, don't use it.
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othertonka
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11/06/09 07:51pm |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: Newbie Question about Slide Outs

If you hit the slide out button before you realize that there is a large non-moving object in the way(ie tree, house, etc) Can you hit the slide out button again to stop the process? And if you hit it again would it come back in? Or are you out of luck:E and once pushed there's no stopping it. I know silly question laugh away:p but I know this will happen sometime..
Thanks,
You have a lot of answers here, but if you would state the year and make of your Motorhome, and the number of slides, someone with that model will surely reply with the right procedure for you. I won't add how my 2004 Fleetwood Southwind works because it is probably not like yours and will just add to the confusion. But you can't go wrong in your testing if you get the slide out moving and then hit the button again and see if it stops. Better to find out how it works when nothing is in the way then to find out it does not work when there IS something in the way.
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othertonka
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11/06/09 07:42pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Workhorse Brake Failure Update

If there is such a "Code" as riding the brakes, would'nt a stuck caliper that is putting pressure on the pads trying to apply the brakes without you even touching the brake pedal give the same code as riding the brake pedal? That it what it is trying to do, put the brakes on for that one wheel even without you being any where near the brake pedal. I don't buy it and would ask any mechanic to prove that I was riding the pedal. Of course I know people who "Left foot brake" that do indeed ride the pedal unconciously while the right foot is on the throttle. We have all followed then by noticing that the BRAKE/STOP lights are ON even when they are passing you or the stop lights keep blinking off and on while they are driving down the road.
One other thing that could happen is that the "Bell Crank" that conects the brake pedal rod to the rod that then goes to the master cylindar could be sticking ON due to a lack of lubrication at the bell crank itself. It has happened.
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othertonka
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11/05/09 10:08pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Birds and SlideOut Covers

How about some kind of barrier in each end of the open topper to keep the birds out in the first place? But make sure you put a note on the slide switch to remind you to remove them before closing the slide. Styrofoam comes to mind, cut to fit the opening and then just forced in place.
Block Styrofoam
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othertonka
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11/05/09 06:27pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Ho2 to repair crack in plastic bathtub

You might want to also look under the tub if you have access and see if there is any support under where the crack is showing up. Then correct the support issue with expanding foam or some other method before repairing, or you will just break it again when you step over that area. Then have a bathtub repair place do the repair, they are great at color matching. I did a small repair with Bondo to a small hole after spraying Expandable foam under the area to take out the flex, and then tried to match the color with spray touchup paint for cars that they sell at automotive stores but it was hard to match. Looks OK to me but the white color is just a little off.
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othertonka
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11/05/09 06:10pm |
General RVing Issues
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