How long has it been since you cleaned the coils on this old guy?
Dirty coils cause high apreage draw which in turn causes breakers to
heat up and trip.
Cheapest place to start since you should be able to do this yourself.
Should have done my website homework before publishing the question.
Didn't have a tire to look at, MIDNIGHTSADIE, but Cooper's website says they are made in their Cooper plant in China. They are branded ROADMASTER, with "engineered by Cooper" also on the sidewalls.
Don't want a China-made tire.
If they really wanted to do the right thing they would present you with a check when you signed the title over to them. Since they don't want to do that, I would not set foot on their property again.
Too many scams, even by very large companies. Much of it comes down to the ethics of the local facility.
Can anyone out there give me first-hand experience with Cooper tires on their RV?
I have a small, older class A that needs tires. The Michelins on it are 11 years old, and since I only use this MH on very short, infrequent trips I didn't want to spend more for tires than the RV may be worth.
I am looking at the Cooper 22570R19.5 Roadmaster RM170 Load Range G.
Rated to carry much more than this old MH weighs.
Any comments appreciated.
Tires on the curb side are carrying more weight due to crowned (slight or severe) roads. Normal to run a little hotter. Nothing to be concerned about nor need to try to adjust air pressure to compensate.
This type of bubble on the sidewall is caused by failure of the tubeless liner and allowing high pressure from the inside to infiltrate the other layers of rubber in the sidewall. It is typically caused by an abrupt impact to the shoulder, i.e., hitting a curb, rock in the road, or anything that breaks the tubeless liner, and may or may not show anything on the outside of the tire.'
While it is not something you want to happen, typically it will not cause the tire to abruptly blow out. More a leak of air to the atmosphere when the bubble finally bursts.
40 years in the tire industry; seen it all and done most of it.
Wife & I have owned a RV park in Texas for just over 18 years. It was to be my retirement project after working for a large international company for 40 years. Turned into a long-term project with 4 of my 5 immediate family members involved.
We were lucky to find this dilapidated RV park for which the only thing going for it was it's proximity to a very large Texas city.
IMHO be very, very careful about the location. It can make or break very quickly. Also, any water attraction (lake, river, etc) helps improve occupancy rates.
Over time, through a lot of very hard but rewarding work, we have turned this park into one to be proud of. 100% full year round, typically with a waiting list for longer-term sites.
We, too went into this venture planning on only over-nighters or weekly guests. Quickly learned that does not pay off. We do a lot of short-term, but found we needed the stable long-term guests to pay the bills. With short-term you are at the mercy of too many uncontrollable factors; price of fuel being one. Amazing how volume can increase/decrease relating to cost of fuel.
I personally would not recommend absentee ownership of an RV park. Also, I would not buy a RV park if I couldn't perform most maint. tasks, i.e., plumbing and electrical repairs mainly. Furtunately, in Texas, unless you are located in a controlling municipality, the laws allow you, as owner, to repair anything, however if you have electrical repairs done by others, they must be licensed in the state.
Our park is in a MUD district; I would not buy a park on a septic
Other moneh-makers: propane, ice, park cabins, a few RV necessities (coax cables, water hoses, sewer hookup needs, etc.)
We are a member of ARVC (National Association of Campground Owners), and a few years ago they published an article on constructing a new RV park. They came up with a figure of $12,000 per site (not counting cost of land) to build roads and all the infrastructure items you need to provide a potentially successful park.
Last item; IMHO the major downside of owning a RV park is the fact it ties you down and makes extended traveling impossible.
I know this is long, but hope it gives you a few more things to think about.
Whatever you do, don't plug a radial tire.
It may run a mile, or it may run 1,000 miles, but sooner or
later the "working" of the steel belts will cause the plug
to start leaking air around it.
Also, don't shoot any "fix-a-flat" material into any tire you
want repaired later. The repairman hates the stuff since he/she
has a very hard time cleaning the area before it can be properly
If it were me I would figure out a way to carry a spare tire.
"In the tire industry 40 years; seen it all and done most of it"
IMHO you made a very wise decision, ARTILLERY6.
I started using Michelins in the 70's, and have used only Michelin since (a couple of sets of BFGoodrich after Michelin bought them).
NEVER had a tire failure in the almost 50 years of usage on cars, pickups and RVs.
People say they have "luck" with Michelins. It isn't luck, it's Michelin's never ending dedication to quality and quality control.
To a large degree tires are at the mercy of the owners maintenance, but I honestly believe the Michelins are more forgiving when the maintenance is something less than perfect.
Federal law: Any cylinder less than 100 lb. capacity must be recertified 12
years from date of manufacture stamped on top collar.
This certification must be performed by a propane company licensed to inspect cylinders. I have heard of charges varying from $0, if you have them refill cylinder at the same time, up to as high as $30. This charge is not regulated by law.
Beginning a couple of years ago, re-certification date is applied to a sticker which is affixed to the top collar. It will read month, date, and letter 'E'.
Cylinder must scrapped 5 years from the date beside the letter 'E'.
Normal filling practice:
1. By law, every cylinder under 100 lbs. must have a OPD (overflow preveition device) valve, which prevents any it from being filled more than 80%.
2. Add tare weight of cylinder to number of lbs. of propane it will take to fill it to 80% , and set the scales at a reading approx. 2 lbs. more than that combined weight.
3. The cylinder is placed on the scales, propane introduced into the cylinder, and the OPD valve should shut it off at 80% of tank capacity.
4. If scale tips, indicating the OPD valve didn't shut it off, dispenser refill valve is turned off and tank considered 'full' (80%).
What you are seeing is the classical example of the oldest problem known to radial tires: belt separation. The adhesion gave way between the 2 steel plies under the tread. IMHO it had nothing to do with the age of these tires.
Poor quality control during manufacturing is typically to blame.
40 years in the tire business; seen it all and done most of it.
SPRINK-FITTER, I didn't make myself clear, I guess.
What I was referring to is the people who think they are taking the easy way out and leave the black water valve OPEN. If they do that it isn't a matter of 'will' the solids stop up the tank, but 'when'. I own an RV park, and have seen that happen several times when some smart person says to themselves, why do I need to only empty the tank when it's full. I'll leave the valve open all the time and not worry about it. Have seen septic dump trucks come out several times and clean out theur clogged tank.
This thread was about long-term septic use; not short camping trips. Of course when you leave a site you can empty your partially-filled tank.
Massive belt separation. Looks like 1 belt went with the tread, the other stayed on the tire. If you had been towing the extra weight would have caused the casing to blow, since 1 belt lost drastically reduces the carrying capacity.
Looks like it's time to get an adjustment from BFG.
Personally I avoid WalMart and Sam's club like the plague and use Costco as much as possible. BUT, at least for gas, Costco will only take debit cards or their American Express and they give 3% back. Since their gas is generally the lowest in the area, 3% is a pretty good deal. I only use debits for inside so I don't know what their policy is. I know that Safeway/Vons will also give 3% off with their card, or if you spend xx, up to 10% off.
BEING FROM COSTCO'S HOME AREA, I WOULD ASSUME YOU WOULD FAVOR COSTCO, HOWEVER A GOOD PORTION OF THE COUNTRY STILL SHOP WAL-MART AND SAMS.
Go with the Michelins. You will never be
sorry, and guarantee you will be a lifetime
This brand has the best quality control of any
tire Co. in the world, which pays off from the
day you buy them as you notice they take much
less balance weights, in fact if beads are properly
lubricated, and wheel is in balance, many times I
have bought them and no weight was required on
some of the tires. They just run and ride better ! ! !
Have had and use Sams Business MasterCard for a couple of months.
Really like their gas program.
FIlled up yesterday, $3.07 per gallon, less 5% brings that
down to $2.92.
Lowest price I see at other stations around us is $3.19, but
of course you would also get 5% off that, too.