Federal law: Any cylinder less than 100 lb. capacity must be recertified 12
years from date of manufacture stamped on top collar.
This certification must be performed by a propane company licensed to inspect cylinders. I have heard of charges varying from $0, if you have them refill cylinder at the same time, up to as high as $30. This charge is not regulated by law.
Beginning a couple of years ago, re-certification date is applied to a sticker which is affixed to the top collar. It will read month, date, and letter 'E'.
Cylinder must scrapped 5 years from the date beside the letter 'E'.
Normal filling practice:
1. By law, every cylinder under 100 lbs. must have a OPD (overflow preveition device) valve, which prevents any it from being filled more than 80%.
2. Add tare weight of cylinder to number of lbs. of propane it will take to fill it to 80% , and set the scales at a reading approx. 2 lbs. more than that combined weight.
3. The cylinder is placed on the scales, propane introduced into the cylinder, and the OPD valve should shut it off at 80% of tank capacity.
4. If scale tips, indicating the OPD valve didn't shut it off, dispenser refill valve is turned off and tank considered 'full' (80%).
What you are seeing is the classical example of the oldest problem known to radial tires: belt separation. The adhesion gave way between the 2 steel plies under the tread. IMHO it had nothing to do with the age of these tires.
Poor quality control during manufacturing is typically to blame.
40 years in the tire business; seen it all and done most of it.
SPRINK-FITTER, I didn't make myself clear, I guess.
What I was referring to is the people who think they are taking the easy way out and leave the black water valve OPEN. If they do that it isn't a matter of 'will' the solids stop up the tank, but 'when'. I own an RV park, and have seen that happen several times when some smart person says to themselves, why do I need to only empty the tank when it's full. I'll leave the valve open all the time and not worry about it. Have seen septic dump trucks come out several times and clean out theur clogged tank.
This thread was about long-term septic use; not short camping trips. Of course when you leave a site you can empty your partially-filled tank.
Massive belt separation. Looks like 1 belt went with the tread, the other stayed on the tire. If you had been towing the extra weight would have caused the casing to blow, since 1 belt lost drastically reduces the carrying capacity.
Looks like it's time to get an adjustment from BFG.
Personally I avoid WalMart and Sam's club like the plague and use Costco as much as possible. BUT, at least for gas, Costco will only take debit cards or their American Express and they give 3% back. Since their gas is generally the lowest in the area, 3% is a pretty good deal. I only use debits for inside so I don't know what their policy is. I know that Safeway/Vons will also give 3% off with their card, or if you spend xx, up to 10% off.
BEING FROM COSTCO'S HOME AREA, I WOULD ASSUME YOU WOULD FAVOR COSTCO, HOWEVER A GOOD PORTION OF THE COUNTRY STILL SHOP WAL-MART AND SAMS.
Go with the Michelins. You will never be
sorry, and guarantee you will be a lifetime
This brand has the best quality control of any
tire Co. in the world, which pays off from the
day you buy them as you notice they take much
less balance weights, in fact if beads are properly
lubricated, and wheel is in balance, many times I
have bought them and no weight was required on
some of the tires. They just run and ride better ! ! !
Have had and use Sams Business MasterCard for a couple of months.
Really like their gas program.
FIlled up yesterday, $3.07 per gallon, less 5% brings that
down to $2.92.
Lowest price I see at other stations around us is $3.19, but
of course you would also get 5% off that, too.
Another thing you might consider. All black water MUST be held until the tank is full, then dump at one time. While it is customary for RVers to leave the gray water valve open all the time, you could also close this one and dump all at one time.
Then, set a time of night when your house usage is minimal and dump both tanks.
Thru my experience of living with septic systems in the past, I believe this may be a viable solution.
Allowing long-term residents doesn't have to mean "TAPED-UP WINDOWS, DIRTY RVS, VISITORS CARS PARKED EVERYWHERE", and all the other insinuations that anyone staying more than a night are BUMS.
The long-term guests RVs can look as good as the overnighters; it just depends on the park establishing and then enforcing their rules. Before you get too critical, attempt to look at the reason for the 'long-term' RVer:
a. Came in from out-of-town for a 6-month, one year, or whatever temp. job.
b. A visiting, contract nurse who signs for 13 weeks, then may have contract
c. A person who is selling their home and building a new one.
d. A person whose home was damaged in a fire or windstorm.
e. A person has a large park model with 5 slides by the lake, and thoroughly
enjoys the RV Park life.
f. From out of area, got a job, and living in RV while house-hunt.
Believe me, the list of reasons go on and on and in most cases the persons are not living in the RV because they can't afford anything else.
Finally, if the RV park didn't have the steady income from those long-term guests, you would probably be paying a lot more for your nightly visit.
If you are even the least bit handy and don't mind getting on top of your RV, this is definitely a do-it-yourself job and will save you several hundred dollars.
If the 13,500 BTU unit was doing the job before, why go larger?
Don't know best place to buy in Utah, but bought a Carrier brand 13,500 unit in Houston from PPL last week, rooftop and ceiling unit for ducted system, for $546.70, plus sales tax.
4 bolts connect the upper and lower units, then unless your rig is really old, the electrical connections are modular. One thing to make sure of is clean very well all areas where the gasket touches.
Took about 1.5 hours to install. Just watch carefully as you un-install the old one, and re-install the new one the same way and you will be surprised at how easy and quickly you will finish the job.
Having retired from the tire industry after 40 years, experiencing virtually every tire situation imaginable, I will give you my simple, clear view on tire blowout problems.
More tires blow out due to poor workmanship than age. That poor workmanship may not show up for a year or so after tire is in service.
'Passin' Thru''s message above says it best: 4.4 million miles without a blowout.
In fact I am very opposed to scrapping tires systematically at 6 or 7 years; certainly after they are 10 years old, but conditions vary over the USA and one age rule does not apply to all conditions and maintenance situations.
Begin with the best tire you can afford, maintain air pressure as per THE TIRE MANUFACTURER'S guide (not necessarily the RV manufacturer).
Tire manufacturer wants you to get the best service from the tires, the RV manufacturer leans toward giving you the best ride.
Carefully check tread and sidewalls at least before every RV season, and after you have hit an object in the road. Cuts or bulges is what you are mainly looking for. Of course severe weather checking should also be considered a potential problem.
My opinions based on much, much practical experience.
Confirming another post here:
I have a propane dispensing station, and assure you propane cylinders must be re-certified 12 years from date of manufacture, then again 5 years from that date.
In my area the standard customers' joke is, if they present an out-of-date cylinder "that's OK, I'll take it to Wal Mart and exchange it for one in-date"
I don't care what advice you use and what advice don't use, I just
know from 40 years experience many, many failures are blamed on age
that were actually the result of poor maintenance, internal shock
damage that didn't show up on the surface and many other problems.
That's why I say again, go to the people who made the product, the
tire manufacturer, and use their recommendations on age.
40 years in the tire industry; seen it all and done most of it.
Use 'em and don't worry.
This tire age thing is a very successful marketing ploy.
Go to the TIRE MANUFACTURER'S website and read their
recommendations on number of years to use your tires.
Don't listen to a dealer, marketing person, or your
brother-in-law. Lot of hear-say, developed by the same
marketers that sold kids expiration dates on breakfast
cereal years ago.
40 years in the tire industry; seen it all and done most of it.
Didn't read all the biased comments, but did not find one that mentions the difference in weather. Freeze your b u t t off in SD, but not in most of Texas.
But that's OK, we have plenty of good folks in TX, just head on North.