4X4Dodger, you tell it like it is. The short tire life scare tactics is nothing but tire MARKETERS trying to sell more tires. Why people believe MARKETERS and not TIRE MANUFACTURERS is beyond me. Have not seen a single manufacturer's site say replace at 5 to 6 years.
Based on my 40 years in the tire industry I have been preaching this for years, but still people see those "alligators" beside the freeways, thrown from cheap radial tires, and automatically cry "old tires".
Don't think you have to worry about having butane in the tanks;
to my knowledge butane is not sold in bulk anywhere in the USA any more.
Are your propane tanks new and not properly purged?
Have you tried different tanks and still have the problem?
Definitely sounds like a supply problem.
Simple answer, lg212.
Weigh each axle of the MH.
Go to the tire manufacturer's website.
Find their pressure/load chart and apply the recommended pressure.
You are safe increasing that pressure up to 10% above recommendation, but don't,
as someone indicated, "just inflate to the max indicated on the sidewall" Bad advice.
Also, have the tires checked annually after 5 years from manufacture date, but don't just automatically replace at 5-7 years. You will not find a single tire MANUFACTURER that recommends that short a life. That advice/warning is purely MARKETING driven, to sell more tires.
"40 years in the tire industry; seen it all and done most of it"
I have a Onan 4000 Microlite, but it runs on propane.
This rig sat for a year with engine only being started every
week or so, but never started the Onan.
Now it just has a high clicking noise when I attempt to start
SLICKESG1, are you trying to insult me? Read my post a little closer.
Since bias ply truck/RV tire didn't have belts, of course I am speaking ONLY of radial tires, and what I am saying is based on experience gained throughout 40 years in the tire industry, working for a MAJOR radial tire manufacturer.
I, too have sat thru endless tech films, viewed thousands and thousands of radial tires being made, dissected radial tires, did scrap tire analysis, interviewed users, etc., etc., etc.
I'll just leave it there.
The main objective of pressure for the load is to assure the belts, viewing shoulder to shoulder, are flat on the pavement. Too much pressure: center has more pressure, narrowing the footprint, poor braking ability, rough ride, forcing stress on edge of the tread belts.
Underinflation, more stress on edge of belts, more flexing in sidewalls producing excessive heat buildup.
Both over & under inflation have many more detriments I won't take time to list, but that is why manufacturers publish PSI/load charts.'\
To address other questions, there is an age-old battle between vehicle (car, truck, RV, you name it), manufacturers and tire manufacturers. Vehicle manufacturers will typically recommend lower PSI, because they want the best ride, but tire manufacturers recommend higher PSI because they want to assure the tires give best mileage.
Bottom line, you are wrong if you overinflate, or if you underinflate, for the load you are carrying..............period ! ! ! !
After retiring with 40 years in the tire industry, I can tell you the big deal on age that has exploded in the last few years is MARKETER DRIVEN. It is like the 'use by' dates on cereal, milk, and everything else you buy. I see a mattress marketer now stating mattresses should be changed every 8 years ! ! ! !
Best guide is use the info provided by most major tire MANUFACTURERS, not MARKETERS. You will find a big difference in their recommendations.
IMHO J-ROOSTER's post above is the best information I see so far in this post.
About the only problem we have is flash flooding during & immediately after a heavy downpour. Other than that the only problem you should have is the traffic on I-10. Choose your time; either mid-morning or mid-afternoon weekdays, or Sat or Sunday, if you need to avoid heavy traffic.
I have a 1997 Winnebago Itasca Sunrise 25RC Class A.
Length is 25' 4".
6.5 L GM front-end diesel engine.
I travel alone and feel this is really a good size for me.
Has all the features you listed, plus driver's door in
addition to typical RV mid-entry door.
Full 6' couch, and lots of storage inside & out.
No-tow driving = about 16 mpg; with towing = about 11 mpg.
Very happy with it.
Don't know how many model-years after 1997 they made the front-end
diesel in this size, which I consider perfect for 1 person.
You are terribly wrong, Chris Bryant.
The "pigtail", when screwed into the OPD POL fitting, releases the check valve and allows normal flow of propane, but if you open it too quickly it will freeze the tiny orfice. You can open it very slowly and bring it to full flow, but again, as with a line failure, if it is a sudden burst of propane flow, it will freeze up.
The "pigtail", or longer line, if you wish, has nothing to do with the safety features built into the OPD valves.
I happen to own a propane dispensing station, and about the only time we screw a pigtail in the POL valve is to purge a new cylinder, and many times have opened the OPD valve too quickly and had the flow shut off immediately.
Any legal cylinder today, which requires a OPD (overfill prevention device)valve, will shut off if there is a sudden increase in the flow, such as a broken line. The propane passes thru a very small orfice that will immediately freeze closed if the normal flow amount is suddenly exceeded.
This feature is just part of the OPD valve safety features.
Can only help with the propane tank:
RV propane tanks are typically 30 lbs. Meaning at 80% of
capacity you should have 30 lbs. of propane.
If your's is the normal 30 lb. tank check the "tare weight"
on the tank's collar; add 30 lbs. to it, and you have an
accurate total weight, with that tank at the max of 80% full.
OLD-BUSCUIT, I am always curious as to where people get their recommendations for removing tires due to age, especially when their post does not agree with the tire manufacturer's aging recommendation.
Care to share that with us?
Having retired from the tire industry after 40 years, I can mentally track a lot of successes and failures of many major world-wide brands of tires, primarily radials.
I recall when Michelin introduced the 'X' radial truck tire and the 40,000 mile pass. tire, all US manufacturers went into a frenzy to try to produce a tire that would compete with these new developments. In pass. tires, G/Y produced a 'bias-ply' tire, which could be built on the same equipment as the 20,000 mile bias tires they sold then. The PolyGlass and PolySteel were disasters.
G/Y's policy, IMHO has been for many, many years "yes, we have some problems with that particular tire, but we have a new one just on the market that takes care of those problem." In truck tires it was first Unisteel, then the supposedly improved Unisteel I, then Unisteel II, and I don't know how many other versions of the Unisteel.
A radial tire is simple in design, but quite hard to produce a high percentage of top quality tires. A radial tire producer cannot afford to lower their final inspection standards and let tires out that are less than perfect. In a radial tire, if you get a less-than-perfect tire, you have problems. Possibly as simple as a vibration that never completely goes away, all the way to sudden separations and blowouts.
True dedication to quality of any product is a culture, a passion that has to be displayed from top management all the way down. Some companies have it, many do not.
Keep in mind, all I have written here are my opinions based on experience.
My XRVs were made 0904. That translates to 9th week of 2004. Approx. 11 1/2 years ago. Sure they are beyond even Michelin's conservative life recommendation, and I am in process of getting 6 new XRV to replace them. My point :
- Extremely fine cracking near the beads.
- All 6 have very even tread wear.
I will stay with my Michelins, as I have for about 50 years now, thank you ! ! !
Careful BIRD FREAK and KAYTEG1, you are proving my point.
IMHO many people have been taken in by tire marketers (not manufacturers) warning about scrapping perfectly good tires at a very early age; 5 or 6 years.
As I have stated repeatedly, in my 40 years in the tire industry a very low percentage of failures I saw was attributed to age, yet it is automatically blamed by so many people who don't have a clue, except what the marketers have pounded into their heads.
My continued advice: Go to the tire MANUFACTURER'S website and follow their recommendations on tire care, including age of replacement. Don't follow some marketers veiled threat about how they will automatically blow out at 5 or 6 years.
I disagree, 'EXECUTIVE". A qualified tire technician will know where and what to look for with the tire inflated and jacked up so a 360 degree check can be made. Mostly you are looking for cuts or belt separations. Cuts are obvious, belt separations will begin showing up in the tread grooves nearest the shoulders.
I suppose in a very, very minor number of cases you may discover a problem inside, but in my many years I found most cases signs of problems with radials will transfer and make itself known on the outside, again if you know what you are really looking for..
'40 years in the tire industry; seen it all and done most of it"
Michelin makes a super, consistent quality product, IMHO.
Have used them since early '60s and NEVER had a failure.
Of course, I do maintain my tires probably better than most.
Also IMHO of the extensive list of tires Michelin makes,
the all=steel XPS is the cream of the crop. You NEVER
hear anything derogatory about the XPS.
I don't think you will have a problem with the ride.