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 > Your search for posts made by 'paullac' found 25 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Buying a Rental Class C. How many of us out there? (Long)

Let me start with the first word that comes to mind >> HELP !! My wife and I are about to start our first venture into the RV world and calling me a novice would be a compliment. Calling my wife is not recommended. I have been looking for feedback on buying from a rental company as it was one of my considerations so this forum and these posts are excellent. Question: From the people that have purchased RV's what's the reduction you may expect from the price they quote? Any feedback would be helpful. We are looking for a 24' Class C with a rear/corner bed and have seen one at El-Monte in Orlando which looks pretty good. It's a 2008 Fleetwood JAMBOREE 25G I do not know if that's a good setup or one I should run away from. Any help will be much appreciated. Or any suggestions on other types of vehicle I should consider would be very helpful. Thanking you in anticipation. We can'y wait to get on the road and visit the many national parks. Steve & Lorena Disclaimer: I didn't buy an ex-rental nor do I have a corner bed model but I'll toss my 2 cents in regardless. I would suggest that you rent the specific model that you're interested in purchasing to test it (& the RV'ing lifestyle for that matter) out. I say that because it's not totally unusual to hear gripes about corner bed models from people who previously had them. There are 3 main issues that I recall seeing: difficult to make bed, feeling cramped while sleeping, & one person has to climb out over the other person. I'm sure somebody with a corner bed model will reply to my post that it's the best thing since sliced bread. But renting first will ensure it's OK (or not) for you too prior to spending $$$. Good luck in your search! Keep us posted.
paullac 05/19/15 08:17pm Class C Motorhomes
TPMS, Valve Stems, & Wheel Covers

Faulty leaking valve extenders on our Sunseeker have short circuited a trip each year now. So I'm planning to remove them altogether & replace with a TPMS. I'm leaning toward the TST 507 based upon what I've read on various RV forums (or one by Tire-Safeguard as it's ranked higher than the TST on Amazon). Two questions: - Can I, in fact, remove the valve extenders? I'd replace the valve stem with metal ones but it would just be the standard shorter length ones. I'd then install the TPMS directly on the valve stems. I'm thinking specifically about the inner wheels on the back. I know when I needed air on the inner wheels I'd have to contort my body some. I'm just trying to avoid another $150 for the Tire Man type longer metal valve stem / extenders. - Also, do the flow through sensors "fit" on the valve stems with the simulated wheel covers still installed? I had read somewhere that because the flow through sensors are bigger they interfere with the simulated wheel covers. Thanks in advance!
paullac 05/16/15 02:25pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Rental Class C. How many of us out there? (Long)

I keep getting updates to this thread so I must have posted to it somewhere along the way. Still going strong. Amazing. Sad / interesting story about rental class C's. The wife and I were driving through our town 2 weekends ago. We saw a Cruise America class C lined up to go into the self serve spray off car wash. We couldn't get there in time. He drove in (slowly) and we heard the crunch / pop as the AC shroud took a hit on the roof of the car wash bay. I've since wondered a few times what the damage ($$$) on that was and did the renter have to cover it or somebody's insurance. Was it just the shroud (probably not), some AC parts too (probably), maybe the adjacent roof area too (hopefully not). In any event, to people considering buying a rental class C, my recommendation would be to check the roof closely around the AC (the highest point) and the front of the cabover as I'm sure we didn't see the first time that ever happened.
paullac 05/16/15 12:50pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford E450 - Inspect / Lubricate U Joints?

OP here with an update - I had the rig at the Ford dealer yesterday for the oil change. The service writer said they're supposed to inspect / lubricate but put a reminder note on the repair order to be safe. He acknowledged that the engineers have gone lifetime sealed so it depends on the specific vehicle. It didn't seem like he was a fan of the engineers for doing this. In any event, when I cashed out, the service writer said this to me: "The only grease fittings were on the tie rod ends, not driveline". This was for an E450 with a build date of 2/15/2012. In full disclosure, I have zero understanding of anything mechanical, so a lot of the responses to my original post & even what the service writer said is over my head. But I wanted to share this back with the group as an FYI in case it helps anyone else.
paullac 04/26/15 07:47am Class C Motorhomes
Ford E450 - Inspect / Lubricate U Joints?

I have a Class C on a Ford E450. I bought it new in late summer 2012. It has about 12 k miles on it. All the Ford owners manual really calls for at this age / mileage is oil changes. i've had them done every spring at the Ford dealer (so they run it through a multipoint inspection too). I noticed the owners manual also says to inspect / lubricate the U joints. I brought it up to the dealer last time & I didn't fully get his answer but it sounds like it wasn't recommended (I figure if it was needed they would have gladly charged me for it). Does anyone know more about this - does this need to be done or not? Thanks!
paullac 04/21/15 05:55am Class C Motorhomes
Maxxair Questions

I am planning to get Maxxair vent covers on my class C. Question 1: It looks like the Maxxair original is about $31 online & the Maxxair II is about $40 online. I'm guessing that people would generally recommend the II over the original for only $9 more but please advise if you have an opinion on this. Question 2: We have 2 roof normal roof vents, 1 Fantastic Fan vent, & 1 bathroom fan vent. I am planning to put the Maxxair on just the 2 normal roof vents. A local RV service place I trust said not to put one on the Fantastic Fan vent (unfortunately, I can't remember the reason why). Do people have them on their Fantastic Fan vents - if so, do you like them there or not? It seems to me like I'd want one on the Fantastic Fan vent but was told not to for some reason. Thanks!
paullac 04/17/15 06:25am General RVing Issues
RE: Sanitize Fresh Tank & Bleach

Quick conversion. If you have 8.25%, only use 60% of the 5% amount it calls for. If it calls for 1 cup of 5%, use 0.6 cup of 8.25%. OR: Doubling the amount of bleach lowers the time it takes to work from 4 hours to 1 hour. Use the higher concentration, knowing it will work faster. The usual recommendation is 1/4 cup of bleach per 10 gallons of water capacity. Yup! This 60% number comes up with the same amount as the school equation I posted above.
paullac 04/15/15 08:41am General RVing Issues
RE: Sanitize Fresh Tank & Bleach

Make an effort to get that mix into the water heater too! All kinds of stinky stuff grows in there. I'm not so sure about that. My owners manual says specifically to open up the water heater bypass valve after the sanitizing is done. I think bleach can eat away at the water heater tank. We just got a new dishwasher at home & the owners manual for that says to not use bleach for anything as it can damage the inside metal walls of the dishwasher.
paullac 04/15/15 08:38am General RVing Issues
RE: Sanitize Fresh Tank & Bleach

Just use the recommended quantity of bleach described in your owner's manual. The 3% difference in concentration isn't going to make any difference in overall result. If you can, leave the bleach combined water inside the tank and lines overnight. It is the amine of sodium hypochlorite that does the heavy lifting and the amine develops gradually after mixing with water. I fill & drain the tank 2 times after the bleach exercise to be sure to get all the bleach out.
paullac 04/15/15 08:12am General RVing Issues
RE: Sanitize Fresh Tank & Bleach

Depending on tank size, adding a cup of bleach should suffice. Do a web search for sanitizing your potable water system. You will get dozens of hits. BTW Dollar Store I believe still sells the regular sruff for a dollar a gallon. That's a thought. I will check the dollar store.
paullac 04/15/15 08:11am General RVing Issues
RE: Sanitize Fresh Tank & Bleach

The recommendation is generally 100mg of chlorine for ever liter of water with a 3 hour contact time. (Reference AWWA C651). For you - What that means is you need approximately 5 oz of 8.25% bleach for 40 gallons of water with a 3 hour contact time. That's pretty close to what I was thinking. My owners manual says a 1/4 cup (2 ounces) of bleach for every 15 gallons of fresh tank size - with the 3 hour contact time as you say. My fresh tank is 44 gallons - call it 45. So I would use 3/4 cup (6 ounces) of "old fashioned" bleach. With the more concentrated bleach, I was going to use 4 ounces per this math equation I remember from school: 6 oz of 8.25 bleach equals X oz of 5 bleach X would be about 4 so about 4 oz.
paullac 04/15/15 08:07am General RVing Issues
Sanitize Fresh Tank & Bleach

I would like to sanitize the fresh tank. My RV owners manual (& what I've found on the internet) says to use bleach with 5% sodium hypochlorite. The problem is all the bleach in the stores is now "concentrated" which appears to mean 8.25% sodium hypochlorite based on reading the label. Does anyone know a brand name of bleach that has the 5% level of sodium hypochlorite? Or do people just use a little less of the 8.25% level? Thanks!
paullac 04/15/15 07:33am General RVing Issues
RE: Yellowstone / Grand Teton / Mount Rushmore - Number Of Days?

OP Here - Good point. We are a dad, mom, 14 year old girl, & 11 year old boy. Did you think 2 days was enough at Grand Teton? Or were there major attractions that you missed? Ideally we are trying to spend as little time as needed in Grand Teton as we've only read that you need as much time as possible in Yellowstone.
paullac 01/14/15 06:21am RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
Yellowstone / Grand Teton / Mount Rushmore - Number Of Days?

We have a question about the number of days for Yellowstone, Grand Teton, & Mount Rushmore. We've read a lot of posts on this forum but not anything addressing this specifically. Here's our rough plan in our class C for late June into early July: - Drive from Cincinnati to Yellowstone - 3 days - Stay at Fishing Bridge, see Yellowstone - ??? days - Drive from Yellowstone to Grand Teton - half day - Stay at Colter Bay Campground, see Grand Teton - ??? days - Drive from Grand Teton to Mount Rushmore - 1 day - Not sure where to stay but see Mount Rushmore - 1 day - Drive from Mount Rushmore to Cincinnati - 3 days We have 7 days to split up between Yellowstone & Grand Teton. We know we need to leave as many days as possible for Yellowstone. How many days should we allocate to Grand Teton? We would then put all the remaining days to Yellowstone. The Fishing Bridge & Colter Bay websites show availability but we know we need to book quickly. Thanks!
paullac 01/14/15 05:56am RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Roof damage on new RV

With that said... The only acceptable option to me would be a full roof replacement. First off, the repair (done at the factory, no less, where you might expect better work!) didn't last. I would expect all new fiberglass on the top. Note that the fiberglass needs to be removed in order to check the wood underneath for any signs of water damage. I would find it hard to believe that with a crack that wide that some water didn't work down toward the wood underneath after a couple rainstorms. Even one water outline on the wood underneath would result in me telling them to start replacing the wood too. And then keep working down & replacing as needed until no more traces of water can be found. By the way, shame on Winnebago for doing the krazy glue & white toothpaste repair!
paullac 08/19/14 07:04pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Roof damage on new RV

I wouldn't be wasting my time posting about it on here right now. It would of been back to the dealer ASAP. I don't know how you or the dealer could of missed that with your PDI. It is back to the dealer. I don't consider posting here a waste of time, especially if I get some useful insight As I noted, I don't know how I missed it either.How are you certain that the damage was there when you took delivery? Neither you or the dealer noticed it or at least disclosed it. At this point in time you are likely going to have to pursue this as a warranty claim rather than a delivery issue. If it were me, I would MUCH rather this be resolved via warranty rather than a delivery issue. Reason: I would trust Winnebago to fix it the right way rather than the dealer doing some krazy glue & white toothpaste patch job!
paullac 08/19/14 05:46pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Roof damage on new RV

OP - Is that a new new unit or a new to you unit? GOOD LUCK getting this resolved as I'd expect an uphill road. Although it should be less uphill if it's a new new unit with the Winnebago warranty and all. At a minimum, I would insist that Winnebago pick it up, transport it back to their factory, & replace the roof. Ideally, I'd target a replacement unit but I have yet to hear of anyone who got that on the RV forums. Keep us posted. Fingers crossed that this works out for you.
paullac 08/18/14 06:35pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Renewing with Coach Net

I called Coach Net tonight to inquire about the difference between the basic & gold plans. Here were the key differences from my perspective in case others wonder: Basic is for the RV only & for the member only. Gold is for the RV along with other vehicles & for the member along with spouse / dependent children. Gold also includes concierge service. So, for example, if my wife is driving the RV by herself & I have basic she is out of luck (unless I could get to her location). Going with gold.
paullac 08/04/14 07:28pm General RVing Issues
RE: Renewing with Coach Net

I saw that the plan brochures are on their website. But… They are for the following plans: limited, basic, premier (coach & towable). My renewal letter, e-mail, & my account on their website shows I can select from the following plans: basic, gold, premier. The selections & information about each selection being different in the various locations is the disconnect. I ***think*** limited in limited towing for example (1 time per year, 75 miles max), basic is unlimited towing for example (but only for the member which is me - but what if my spouse is driving by herself), & gold is unlimited towing for example (for me & my spouse - & also other cars besides the RV but we have AAA for that). VERY confusing!
paullac 08/03/14 08:20pm General RVing Issues
RE: Renewing with Coach Net

Desert Captain - Going through the same renewal process with Coach Net now. I ran into this last year & I am so frustrated with Coach Net I am about to switch to Good Sam. Here's my beef... I currently have the Coach Net basic plan. I got the same mailer (& e-mail) you did. It showed basic, gold, & premier as options on the front. On the back is the coverage. Basic is not mentioned there. Gold is the lowest tier showing & it reflects unlimited towing. Platinum is there with a bunch of things. So I'd like to opt for basic to save the money but I don't know if it includes unlimited towing or that 1 time 75 mile thing. So I checked their website. That shows a limited, basic, & premier plan. Totally different options. Basically the mailer & the website don't sync in terms of plan names & coverages so you really have no way of knowing what you are buying. Last year when I called them on this they told me that they were updating their website. Well here it is a year later & it's still messed up. What a screwed up company!
paullac 08/03/14 06:47pm General RVing Issues
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