OP Here -
Good point. We are a dad, mom, 14 year old girl, & 11 year old boy.
Did you think 2 days was enough at Grand Teton? Or were there major attractions that you missed?
Ideally we are trying to spend as little time as needed in Grand Teton as we've only read that you need as much time as possible in Yellowstone.
We have a question about the number of days for Yellowstone, Grand Teton, & Mount Rushmore.
We've read a lot of posts on this forum but not anything addressing this specifically.
Here's our rough plan in our class C for late June into early July:
- Drive from Cincinnati to Yellowstone - 3 days
- Stay at Fishing Bridge, see Yellowstone - ??? days
- Drive from Yellowstone to Grand Teton - half day
- Stay at Colter Bay Campground, see Grand Teton - ??? days
- Drive from Grand Teton to Mount Rushmore - 1 day
- Not sure where to stay but see Mount Rushmore - 1 day
- Drive from Mount Rushmore to Cincinnati - 3 days
We have 7 days to split up between Yellowstone & Grand Teton. We know we need to leave as many days as possible for Yellowstone. How many days should we allocate to Grand Teton? We would then put all the remaining days to Yellowstone.
The Fishing Bridge & Colter Bay websites show availability but we know we need to book quickly.
With that said...
The only acceptable option to me would be a full roof replacement.
First off, the repair (done at the factory, no less, where you might expect better work!) didn't last.
I would expect all new fiberglass on the top.
Note that the fiberglass needs to be removed in order to check the wood underneath for any signs of water damage.
I would find it hard to believe that with a crack that wide that some water didn't work down toward the wood underneath after a couple rainstorms.
Even one water outline on the wood underneath would result in me telling them to start replacing the wood too.
And then keep working down & replacing as needed until no more traces of water can be found.
By the way, shame on Winnebago for doing the krazy glue & white toothpaste repair!
I wouldn't be wasting my time posting about it on here right now. It would of been back to the dealer ASAP.
I don't know how you or the dealer could of missed that with your PDI.
It is back to the dealer.
I don't consider posting here a waste of time, especially if I get some useful insight
As I noted, I don't know how I missed it either.How are you certain that the damage was there when you took delivery? Neither you or the dealer noticed it or at least disclosed it. At this point in time you are likely going to have to pursue this as a warranty claim rather than a delivery issue.
If it were me, I would MUCH rather this be resolved via warranty rather than a delivery issue. Reason: I would trust Winnebago to fix it the right way rather than the dealer doing some krazy glue & white toothpaste patch job!
OP - Is that a new new unit or a new to you unit? GOOD LUCK getting this resolved as I'd expect an uphill road. Although it should be less uphill if it's a new new unit with the Winnebago warranty and all. At a minimum, I would insist that Winnebago pick it up, transport it back to their factory, & replace the roof. Ideally, I'd target a replacement unit but I have yet to hear of anyone who got that on the RV forums. Keep us posted. Fingers crossed that this works out for you.
I called Coach Net tonight to inquire about the difference between the basic & gold plans. Here were the key differences from my perspective in case others wonder:
Basic is for the RV only & for the member only.
Gold is for the RV along with other vehicles & for the member along with spouse / dependent children. Gold also includes concierge service.
So, for example, if my wife is driving the RV by herself & I have basic she is out of luck (unless I could get to her location).
Going with gold.
I saw that the plan brochures are on their website.
They are for the following plans: limited, basic, premier (coach & towable).
My renewal letter, e-mail, & my account on their website shows I can select from the following plans: basic, gold, premier.
The selections & information about each selection being different in the various locations is the disconnect.
limited in limited towing for example (1 time per year, 75 miles max),
basic is unlimited towing for example (but only for the member which is me - but what if my spouse is driving by herself),
& gold is unlimited towing for example (for me & my spouse - & also other cars besides the RV but we have AAA for that).
Desert Captain -
Going through the same renewal process with Coach Net now. I ran into this last year & I am so frustrated with Coach Net I am about to switch to Good Sam. Here's my beef...
I currently have the Coach Net basic plan.
I got the same mailer (& e-mail) you did. It showed basic, gold, & premier as options on the front. On the back is the coverage. Basic is not mentioned there. Gold is the lowest tier showing & it reflects unlimited towing. Platinum is there with a bunch of things.
So I'd like to opt for basic to save the money but I don't know if it includes unlimited towing or that 1 time 75 mile thing.
So I checked their website. That shows a limited, basic, & premier plan. Totally different options.
Basically the mailer & the website don't sync in terms of plan names & coverages so you really have no way of knowing what you are buying.
Last year when I called them on this they told me that they were updating their website. Well here it is a year later & it's still messed up.
What a screwed up company!
I have a 2013 Sunseeker 3100 so I'm biased but I went through all the brands prior to deciding on it.
This is a no brainer in my opinion.
Sunseeker hands down.
The fiberglass roof times whatever number we're up to now (lost track).
Another huge factor was Azdel walls. Google RV Azdel walls if you need more info. When we bought ours, only two brands offered both a fiberglass roof & Azdel walls. Those two were Forest River (Sunseeker or Forester) & Nexus. At the end of the day, we really only considered those two brands. Given our limited use (1 week long trip plus 8 to 10 weekend trips a year), Sunseeker won out over Nexus based on a bang for the buck comparison. I believe Nexus is a great product, don't get me wrong. But it costs more. And for our limited use, I didn't feel it was worth the extra price.
As for dealer, another shout out for RVDirect dot com. We bought ours at their Buffalo NY location & saved a lot versus a nearby dealer. The nearby dealer had a great price but they were still a few thousand dollars higher than RVDirect. By the way, because I'm sure it will come up, we had no problem getting warranty service. But its something to consider as your experience could be different I suppose. Worst case, from SE Michigan (I'm a former suburban Detroit guy by the way), you drive it to Elkhart, IN (Northern IN) for the factory to work on it. But it really won't come to that.
Good luck & keep us posted.
You will love the 3010, I have a 2014 model myself. It only seems huge at first. Just remember point the front where you want to go, and the back will follow. I try to not get in a situation of a tight turn in close quarters, but at gas stations, just keep using mirrors and looking ahead, like your head is on a swivel. No levelers on mine, I just use boards and those plastic squares. I have the heated tanks on mine for cooler weather, and a/c heat pump unit. Love the heat pump, saves propane from not using furnace. The only thing I don't have that I would have ordered on it is a gas/electric water heater, and not just gas. But I bought it off a dealer's lot. I did take the uncomfortable to sit on jacknife sofa out, and added 2 small recliners.
As mentioned above, we have a 2013 sunseeker 3100. If you have the factory water heater it is both gas and electric. All newer sunseekers have that standard. The switch inside on the control panel is the gas switch. As for electric: go outside, remove the water heater access panel, get down on your knees, look in the lower left (kind of hidden behind a pipe), there's a small switch there that is the electric switch. Caution: do NOT turn or leave this switch on without water in the tank or you will burn out the electric heating element. By the way, not sure who your dealer is but they gave you a terrible pdi demo for not telling you this when you bought it.
Gezzzzz I forgot the question....
no hydrolic leveler, so can i use bottle jack on the frame somewhere ?
how easy it is to boondock, the best place are ?
The one im looking at have a front window on the fiberglass roof top cap....am i looking for trouble ?
in regards of equipments, what is a must have ?
rear end swing, to avoid hitting something what cues are you using prior the turn if its tight ?
thanks for your input guys
We have a 2013 sunseeker 3100. I would avoid a class C with a window on the front of the cab over. Class c's are bad enough for cab over leaks. A window will only make it worse. I personally would pass on it.
If you go down the portable AC unit path, you may want to check out the current issue of Consumer Reports. They have a short 1 page article about them. I just skimmed it. The general upshot was they weren't very effective. They did rate a few units too.
We generally don't do full hookups so just work off the fresh tank (50 gallons) & gray tank (39 gallons) with navy showers.
This will be our first real full hookup weekend so curious what others do for the two things below:
When others are on full hookups, do they still do "navy showers" or leave the shower water on (albeit quickly - so as to not drain the water heater that's only 6 gallons)?
Also, I am planning to leave the gray tank valve closed & dump as needed (vs leaving the valve open all the time). Is that typical?
Wow! Some initial responses to this post are very anti-dealer & I totally disagree with that. As bigdogger said, when you're on the phone, the dealer just wants to get you in the door. That's when the real courtship (i.e., deal) typically begins. I think the OP totally jumped the gun & thought a deal was done over the phone. Telling you you'll get a fantastic deal is *not* a deal. The dealer asking to see the current trailer (when it's going to be part of the deal) is reasonable. It doesn't need to be unloaded for them to make a value appraisal. Honestly, you got a good chunk of the way through the conversation at the dealership & still "were never told what the price of the TT would be". That's one of the very first pieces of the puzzle you need to figure out. Basically, as bigdogger said, after the dealer assembled his info (value of your current trailer, payoff for your current trailer, new trailer value, demand for new trailer, credit score, financing viability, down payment, monthly payment, etc, etc, etc), he decided to walk away. Just as we have that right, so do dealers.
Is there a process for checking to see if my tires are under this recall?
Camper World installed 6 new Mich. LTX MS2's on my Navion last year May 2013. I now have 7000 miles on them. They sat for 7 months through the winter.
I will be leaving on several trips this spring/summer and then on a 8000 mile trip in September 2014. I want to make sure I have safe tires.
M/S tires were recalled.
M/S2 tires are the new & improved model so the speak.
So, if you have M/S2 tires - emphasis on the 2 at the end - you are fine.
Another vote for Bigfoot. I got their fully auto system before last season. I did a ton of research & came away that it was the best option. So far so good.
I went to their place in Michigan for the install. Fortunately I was close enough to make the drive in a half day. Thought it best to go direct to the source. They customized the system a little too as I wanted the rear jacks mounted up higher on the frame due to having to back into a sloped driveway. Like someone said earlier, I was there by about 9 AM & out by about noon.
Are you sure on your pricing from them though? Maybe they gave you pricing for an A (I think that's more from when I last looked on their website). I paid a little under $3900. I got a discount on the install. But I only saved $450 there. Your price is a lot higher than that. Can't imagine they went up that much but maybe they did. Not sure if you can wait but they have run discounts on the install in the winter months the past couple years.
Just something else to consider in the XPS Rib vs LTX M/S2 debate...
The Rib's are summer tires only & the M/S2's are all season tires (per Michelin's website).
Granted, most of us aren't driving our C's around in a blizzard. But something to consider if you live or drive in the Northern parts of the county.
x 2 on the RVDirect dot com mention. We had a very good experience buying our Sunseeker from them.
Now to the question you asked about. Here's some things to think about that I don't believe have been mentioned yet...
With the cabover entertainment center, & especially for that floorplan, I don't think the TV viewing angle is good. The couch is right at the front of the unit. The TV would be just to your right & above you. Can you say stiff neck? The best spot to view the TV from would be the rear dinette seat but, since it's not a high back, it isn't the most comfortable. Without the cabover entertainment center on that floorplan, the TV is nearly across from the couch. I think your neck would appreciate that more.
Not saying this will be a problem, but the cabover entertainment center would complicate any potential repairs to the area due to leaks, etc.
Consider resale down the road. What is more desired in a class C? More sleeping space or less? I think many people choose a class C specifically for the sleeping space in the cabover. I suppose you could count the responses in this thread to see what is preferred. Or maybe strike up a conversation with a used RV salesperson to see what sells quicker or slower.
My chassis is a Ford E450. I had the recalled Michelin tires. A local tire chain put replacement tires on. They told me I needed to get the lug nuts retorqued at 100 & 500 miles (actually made me sign their copy of the invoice that they told me this).
Today I go to another location of that same tire chain to get the lug nuts retorqued. They told me it's NOT needed because the wheels are steel & it would only be needed if I had aluminum wheels. In fact, the guy laughed & said if there was a problem with the torque I would have known by now.
So, does anyone know the actual answer on this? For anyone that has a Ford E450 with new tires installed, were you told to get the lug nuts retorqued?
Thanks everyone for the replies, very helpful. Well, we started the process today so wish us luck. Just learned today that we'll be getting a 2015 model for the same quoted price, and also learned the coach we were trying to buy from our local dealer was actually a 2013 model (found this out because of the color differences). For 2014, this rig now has 7,500lb of towing and more fresh water holding capacity, which were two big benefits for us...So far so good.
I'll update this thread as we move along in case anyone is thinking about doing the same thing. Little scary, but RV Direct seems to have their act together so we shall see...
I'll toss in a comment on this post too… Congrats first of all! The hitch went from 5000 lbs to 7500 lbs during the '14 model run. However, the fresh water capacity stayed the same (I am 99.9% certain) in '13 vs current. We have a '13 3100. The brochure then lists fresh water capacity at 44 gallons plus another 6 gallons in the water heater for 50 gallons total. Now the brochure just says 50 gallons with water heater. The total is the same at 50 gallons.