RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog


RV Sales




RV Parks


RV Club


RV Buyers Guide


Roadside Assistance


Extended Service Plan


RV Travel Assistance


RV Credit Card


RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact

Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'paullac' found 25 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 2  
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
Ford E450 - Inspect / Lubricate U Joints?

I have a Class C on a Ford E450. I bought it new in late summer 2012. It has about 12 k miles on it. All the Ford owners manual really calls for at this age / mileage is oil changes. i've had them done every spring at the Ford dealer (so they run it through a multipoint inspection too). I noticed the owners manual also says to inspect / lubricate the U joints. I brought it up to the dealer last time & I didn't fully get his answer but it sounds like it wasn't recommended (I figure if it was needed they would have gladly charged me for it). Does anyone know more about this - does this need to be done or not? Thanks!
paullac 04/21/15 05:55am Class C Motorhomes
Maxxair Questions

I am planning to get Maxxair vent covers on my class C. Question 1: It looks like the Maxxair original is about $31 online & the Maxxair II is about $40 online. I'm guessing that people would generally recommend the II over the original for only $9 more but please advise if you have an opinion on this. Question 2: We have 2 roof normal roof vents, 1 Fantastic Fan vent, & 1 bathroom fan vent. I am planning to put the Maxxair on just the 2 normal roof vents. A local RV service place I trust said not to put one on the Fantastic Fan vent (unfortunately, I can't remember the reason why). Do people have them on their Fantastic Fan vents - if so, do you like them there or not? It seems to me like I'd want one on the Fantastic Fan vent but was told not to for some reason. Thanks!
paullac 04/17/15 06:25am General RVing Issues
RE: Sanitize Fresh Tank & Bleach

Quick conversion. If you have 8.25%, only use 60% of the 5% amount it calls for. If it calls for 1 cup of 5%, use 0.6 cup of 8.25%. OR: Doubling the amount of bleach lowers the time it takes to work from 4 hours to 1 hour. Use the higher concentration, knowing it will work faster. The usual recommendation is 1/4 cup of bleach per 10 gallons of water capacity. Yup! This 60% number comes up with the same amount as the school equation I posted above.
paullac 04/15/15 08:41am General RVing Issues
RE: Sanitize Fresh Tank & Bleach

Make an effort to get that mix into the water heater too! All kinds of stinky stuff grows in there. I'm not so sure about that. My owners manual says specifically to open up the water heater bypass valve after the sanitizing is done. I think bleach can eat away at the water heater tank. We just got a new dishwasher at home & the owners manual for that says to not use bleach for anything as it can damage the inside metal walls of the dishwasher.
paullac 04/15/15 08:38am General RVing Issues
RE: Sanitize Fresh Tank & Bleach

Just use the recommended quantity of bleach described in your owner's manual. The 3% difference in concentration isn't going to make any difference in overall result. If you can, leave the bleach combined water inside the tank and lines overnight. It is the amine of sodium hypochlorite that does the heavy lifting and the amine develops gradually after mixing with water. I fill & drain the tank 2 times after the bleach exercise to be sure to get all the bleach out.
paullac 04/15/15 08:12am General RVing Issues
RE: Sanitize Fresh Tank & Bleach

Depending on tank size, adding a cup of bleach should suffice. Do a web search for sanitizing your potable water system. You will get dozens of hits. BTW Dollar Store I believe still sells the regular sruff for a dollar a gallon. That's a thought. I will check the dollar store.
paullac 04/15/15 08:11am General RVing Issues
RE: Sanitize Fresh Tank & Bleach

The recommendation is generally 100mg of chlorine for ever liter of water with a 3 hour contact time. (Reference AWWA C651). For you - What that means is you need approximately 5 oz of 8.25% bleach for 40 gallons of water with a 3 hour contact time. That's pretty close to what I was thinking. My owners manual says a 1/4 cup (2 ounces) of bleach for every 15 gallons of fresh tank size - with the 3 hour contact time as you say. My fresh tank is 44 gallons - call it 45. So I would use 3/4 cup (6 ounces) of "old fashioned" bleach. With the more concentrated bleach, I was going to use 4 ounces per this math equation I remember from school: 6 oz of 8.25 bleach equals X oz of 5 bleach X would be about 4 so about 4 oz.
paullac 04/15/15 08:07am General RVing Issues
Sanitize Fresh Tank & Bleach

I would like to sanitize the fresh tank. My RV owners manual (& what I've found on the internet) says to use bleach with 5% sodium hypochlorite. The problem is all the bleach in the stores is now "concentrated" which appears to mean 8.25% sodium hypochlorite based on reading the label. Does anyone know a brand name of bleach that has the 5% level of sodium hypochlorite? Or do people just use a little less of the 8.25% level? Thanks!
paullac 04/15/15 07:33am General RVing Issues
RE: Yellowstone / Grand Teton / Mount Rushmore - Number Of Days?

OP Here - Good point. We are a dad, mom, 14 year old girl, & 11 year old boy. Did you think 2 days was enough at Grand Teton? Or were there major attractions that you missed? Ideally we are trying to spend as little time as needed in Grand Teton as we've only read that you need as much time as possible in Yellowstone.
paullac 01/14/15 06:21am RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
Yellowstone / Grand Teton / Mount Rushmore - Number Of Days?

We have a question about the number of days for Yellowstone, Grand Teton, & Mount Rushmore. We've read a lot of posts on this forum but not anything addressing this specifically. Here's our rough plan in our class C for late June into early July: - Drive from Cincinnati to Yellowstone - 3 days - Stay at Fishing Bridge, see Yellowstone - ??? days - Drive from Yellowstone to Grand Teton - half day - Stay at Colter Bay Campground, see Grand Teton - ??? days - Drive from Grand Teton to Mount Rushmore - 1 day - Not sure where to stay but see Mount Rushmore - 1 day - Drive from Mount Rushmore to Cincinnati - 3 days We have 7 days to split up between Yellowstone & Grand Teton. We know we need to leave as many days as possible for Yellowstone. How many days should we allocate to Grand Teton? We would then put all the remaining days to Yellowstone. The Fishing Bridge & Colter Bay websites show availability but we know we need to book quickly. Thanks!
paullac 01/14/15 05:56am RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Roof damage on new RV

With that said... The only acceptable option to me would be a full roof replacement. First off, the repair (done at the factory, no less, where you might expect better work!) didn't last. I would expect all new fiberglass on the top. Note that the fiberglass needs to be removed in order to check the wood underneath for any signs of water damage. I would find it hard to believe that with a crack that wide that some water didn't work down toward the wood underneath after a couple rainstorms. Even one water outline on the wood underneath would result in me telling them to start replacing the wood too. And then keep working down & replacing as needed until no more traces of water can be found. By the way, shame on Winnebago for doing the krazy glue & white toothpaste repair!
paullac 08/19/14 07:04pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Roof damage on new RV

I wouldn't be wasting my time posting about it on here right now. It would of been back to the dealer ASAP. I don't know how you or the dealer could of missed that with your PDI. It is back to the dealer. I don't consider posting here a waste of time, especially if I get some useful insight As I noted, I don't know how I missed it either.How are you certain that the damage was there when you took delivery? Neither you or the dealer noticed it or at least disclosed it. At this point in time you are likely going to have to pursue this as a warranty claim rather than a delivery issue. If it were me, I would MUCH rather this be resolved via warranty rather than a delivery issue. Reason: I would trust Winnebago to fix it the right way rather than the dealer doing some krazy glue & white toothpaste patch job!
paullac 08/19/14 05:46pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Roof damage on new RV

OP - Is that a new new unit or a new to you unit? GOOD LUCK getting this resolved as I'd expect an uphill road. Although it should be less uphill if it's a new new unit with the Winnebago warranty and all. At a minimum, I would insist that Winnebago pick it up, transport it back to their factory, & replace the roof. Ideally, I'd target a replacement unit but I have yet to hear of anyone who got that on the RV forums. Keep us posted. Fingers crossed that this works out for you.
paullac 08/18/14 06:35pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Renewing with Coach Net

I called Coach Net tonight to inquire about the difference between the basic & gold plans. Here were the key differences from my perspective in case others wonder: Basic is for the RV only & for the member only. Gold is for the RV along with other vehicles & for the member along with spouse / dependent children. Gold also includes concierge service. So, for example, if my wife is driving the RV by herself & I have basic she is out of luck (unless I could get to her location). Going with gold.
paullac 08/04/14 07:28pm General RVing Issues
RE: Renewing with Coach Net

I saw that the plan brochures are on their website. But… They are for the following plans: limited, basic, premier (coach & towable). My renewal letter, e-mail, & my account on their website shows I can select from the following plans: basic, gold, premier. The selections & information about each selection being different in the various locations is the disconnect. I ***think*** limited in limited towing for example (1 time per year, 75 miles max), basic is unlimited towing for example (but only for the member which is me - but what if my spouse is driving by herself), & gold is unlimited towing for example (for me & my spouse - & also other cars besides the RV but we have AAA for that). VERY confusing!
paullac 08/03/14 08:20pm General RVing Issues
RE: Renewing with Coach Net

Desert Captain - Going through the same renewal process with Coach Net now. I ran into this last year & I am so frustrated with Coach Net I am about to switch to Good Sam. Here's my beef... I currently have the Coach Net basic plan. I got the same mailer (& e-mail) you did. It showed basic, gold, & premier as options on the front. On the back is the coverage. Basic is not mentioned there. Gold is the lowest tier showing & it reflects unlimited towing. Platinum is there with a bunch of things. So I'd like to opt for basic to save the money but I don't know if it includes unlimited towing or that 1 time 75 mile thing. So I checked their website. That shows a limited, basic, & premier plan. Totally different options. Basically the mailer & the website don't sync in terms of plan names & coverages so you really have no way of knowing what you are buying. Last year when I called them on this they told me that they were updating their website. Well here it is a year later & it's still messed up. What a screwed up company!
paullac 08/03/14 06:47pm General RVing Issues
RE: Sunseeker or Four Winds

I have a 2013 Sunseeker 3100 so I'm biased but I went through all the brands prior to deciding on it. This is a no brainer in my opinion. Sunseeker hands down. The fiberglass roof times whatever number we're up to now (lost track). Another huge factor was Azdel walls. Google RV Azdel walls if you need more info. When we bought ours, only two brands offered both a fiberglass roof & Azdel walls. Those two were Forest River (Sunseeker or Forester) & Nexus. At the end of the day, we really only considered those two brands. Given our limited use (1 week long trip plus 8 to 10 weekend trips a year), Sunseeker won out over Nexus based on a bang for the buck comparison. I believe Nexus is a great product, don't get me wrong. But it costs more. And for our limited use, I didn't feel it was worth the extra price. As for dealer, another shout out for RVDirect dot com. We bought ours at their Buffalo NY location & saved a lot versus a nearby dealer. The nearby dealer had a great price but they were still a few thousand dollars higher than RVDirect. By the way, because I'm sure it will come up, we had no problem getting warranty service. But its something to consider as your experience could be different I suppose. Worst case, from SE Michigan (I'm a former suburban Detroit guy by the way), you drive it to Elkhart, IN (Northern IN) for the factory to work on it. But it really won't come to that. Good luck & keep us posted.
paullac 07/31/14 08:03am Class C Motorhomes
RE: tired to dance, new RV coming Sunseeker 3010

You will love the 3010, I have a 2014 model myself. It only seems huge at first. Just remember point the front where you want to go, and the back will follow. I try to not get in a situation of a tight turn in close quarters, but at gas stations, just keep using mirrors and looking ahead, like your head is on a swivel. No levelers on mine, I just use boards and those plastic squares. I have the heated tanks on mine for cooler weather, and a/c heat pump unit. Love the heat pump, saves propane from not using furnace. The only thing I don't have that I would have ordered on it is a gas/electric water heater, and not just gas. But I bought it off a dealer's lot. I did take the uncomfortable to sit on jacknife sofa out, and added 2 small recliners. As mentioned above, we have a 2013 sunseeker 3100. If you have the factory water heater it is both gas and electric. All newer sunseekers have that standard. The switch inside on the control panel is the gas switch. As for electric: go outside, remove the water heater access panel, get down on your knees, look in the lower left (kind of hidden behind a pipe), there's a small switch there that is the electric switch. Caution: do NOT turn or leave this switch on without water in the tank or you will burn out the electric heating element. By the way, not sure who your dealer is but they gave you a terrible pdi demo for not telling you this when you bought it.
paullac 07/20/14 08:19pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: tired to dance, new RV coming Sunseeker 3010

Gezzzzz I forgot the question.... no hydrolic leveler, so can i use bottle jack on the frame somewhere ? how easy it is to boondock, the best place are ? The one im looking at have a front window on the fiberglass roof top cap....am i looking for trouble ? in regards of equipments, what is a must have ? rear end swing, to avoid hitting something what cues are you using prior the turn if its tight ? thanks for your input guys We have a 2013 sunseeker 3100. I would avoid a class C with a window on the front of the cab over. Class c's are bad enough for cab over leaks. A window will only make it worse. I personally would pass on it.
paullac 07/20/14 08:12pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Has anyone ever tried a portable A/C in their class C???

If you go down the portable AC unit path, you may want to check out the current issue of Consumer Reports. They have a short 1 page article about them. I just skimmed it. The general upshot was they weren't very effective. They did rate a few units too.
paullac 07/19/14 06:42pm Class C Motorhomes
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 2  

New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2015 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS