I am extremely disappointed with this post! We have the typical cranky old man complaining about repost, etc. but not a single weight police has weighed in on the fact that the VW may be overloaded! What is this site coming to? :)
I've seen the video before but just enjoyed watching it again. Thanks for the post.
When we haul our 21' boat (way too heavy to move around), I back the 5ver to the boat and hitch it up that way. Wife spots for me and it works great. A bit harder than backing the truck to the trailer along but no much.
As a previous poster said, a little late now but since you asked... :)
I've owned a '98 Chevy 1500 with a 350, an '01 CC 2500HD with the 6.0L, an '01 Duramax CC, and now an '07 Duramax CC, all 4WD. When I moved from my '98 350 to the '01 6.0L, I was very disappointed. The 6.0L pulled but it wanted to rev high in the RPMs to get power. Compared to my 350, which had tons of low end grunt, pulling my long, steep mountain road, at low speeds, about stalled the 6.0L engine without me keeping it in 1st gear. I was amazed at the low fuel economy of the 6.0L. This was all with just pulling my 4K lb. boat. The truck didn't last long and I went to the diesel. Never looked back. I still think affectionately about the '98 350 - great truck with loads of low end torque but the diesel is right for my needs now. The newer tunes and 6 spd. transmissions may help highway pulls but the low end, slow pulls is what I did not like about the truck (not to mention hitting 4K RPM pulling a big hill at freeway speed with the 6.0L).
I suspect the new Vortec engines all make their peak power at the higher RPMs for a few reasons. #1 they can keep the gas mileage claims higher; and #2 they can publish higher horsepower numbers to the public. Horsepower is the relationship of torque (which is measurable) to RPM, so the higher the RPM for a given torque value, the higher the HP number. From memory the formula is Torque*RPM/5260 (not sure if I have the divisor/constant correct).
Enjoy the truck and be your own judge.
Here is a thought for you, which worked for me in a different application.
I noticed that when it is cold outside, the outline of the framing shows up on the outside of my laminated 5ver walls (exterior). Condensation clung to the exterior surface faster where no framing members were present. This is because the frames represent additional thermal mass that takes longer to warm. Using this principle, I used a can of aerosol spray cleaner, the type used to clean electronics, cameras, etc., and sprayed my exterior wall to locate a frame member. This spray cleaner quickly cools the surface and causes condensation. Worked like a charm - I could see the outline of the frame member with condensation forming outside the frame member but not on the frame member. Now, I have not tried this on an interior wall but assuming the wall is smooth, results should be similar. The ambient temperature may have to be cool (e.g., early morning) for this to be the most effective.
I'd put 100 psi in the bag and then use some soapy water to try to pin point the leak. I'd do this before I wasted time/money on replacing things. Those 1/4" air lines have to be pushed in very snug to seal (on each end).
Towed my 4000 lb. boat for 8 years and now my 5000 lb. boat. Key is to pick a 5ver with a strong frame and then custom make the 5ver receiver hitch to span 4' or so along the 5ver frame. Lots of other things to consider but it can and is done all the time. I just got back from a 1,000 mile trip with my rig. As said above, be paranoid before you turn into any parking lot, small street, etc. that you may not be able to turn around. I only use very accessible gas stations that I can see the entry and exit before I pull in, or I use the truck stop fueling facilities. Never had to unhitch the boat due to being stuck (you can't back doubles very far...).
The lounge area and entrance door looks identical to our Cougar. If you have kids that plan to sleep in the sofabed, you have to climb over the bed to get in and out the rig. This is a problem when feet/legs are hiding under the covers and you don't want to step on anyone... Our kids keep getting taller, so the problem gets worse... :)
If you do plan to use this sofabed often, pull it out in the dealer lot and make your own decision here.
If you use your truck a lot for hauling, you'll love the underbed mount. I've had both and will never have the topside rails again. Sliding heavy/big items in and out of your truck is much easier without those rails in the way.
I made a rolling hitch bracket for my Honda EU3000 to haul in my front hitch. When we go dirt biking, the bikes are in the back hitch or trailer and I don't like storing the genny in the 5ver. Works great. Never noticed any problem with heating on my truck.
Well I'll be the oddball here. I have a smaller 5th and the tripod helped me out a lot (your results may vary). I found a good craigslist deal so I thought I would try since I have kids in the rear bunk house. One feature you should look for is one with anadjustable pin cup. It will make leveling easier. I would have preferred the jt system but its a little pricy for me right now.
Same here. My 30' RV benefits greatly from the tripod. You have to put some pin weight on the tripod to make it effective. I do like the notion of the landing leg stabilizers and not having to carry the tripod in the back of the truck, though.
As a safeguard, rig a pull wire/cord to the breakaway cable. If it starts to get out of control -- Just puland engage the brakes. Just be sure the battery is charged.
Always! The Power Castor also has a switch to engage the brakes but the breakaway cable is always within reach when operating.
The whole idea of moving a 5er with a small dolly is a tragic accident looking for a place to happen IMHO. Just plain scary to me.
For the benefit of the others, let's talk about this for a minute. What type of tragic accident are you envisioning? I realize scary is in the eye of the beholder and I can see some people not wanting to tow a 5ver down the road because of the potential of a tragic accident but let me describe this set up further and try to minimize your fear.
Let's take the most obvious potential accident and that is the 5ver rolling out of control. With flat ground, this set up moves less than 1 MPH. If anything breaks or stops working (which would require two separate failures - the PowerCastor and the 5ver breaks would have to fail together - the 5ver would slowly move in the direction it started. Chalks can easily be placed under the tires to stop the movement. It is that slow on flat ground. On a slight hill, I'd recommend that two additional spotters walk along the 5ver, with chalks in hand, ready to place the chalks, if anything happened. I would not use this set up on any substantial grade. Again, common sense needs to prevail here, like most places in life.
The other potential accident is that somehow the PowerCastor fails to support the kingpin weight. I'm not quite sure how this could occur but let's pretend the large cup welds break and the kingpin support is no longer provided. For this, I keep the landing legs a few inches off the ground, similar to a pull test with your tow vehicle.
The other type of failure that is being alluded to above is that the two struts stress and break the landing gear legs. For this type of failure to occur and cause danger, both landing gear legs would have to break at the same time. Even if both landing gear did break, the unit moves so slowly that you simply stop pressing the "deadman" switch and everything stops moving.
Like I said above, I realize people have different risk and fear levels but I don't see this system as a tragic accident waiting to happen, any more than I see the risk of tragedy from towing the 5ver down the road.
Thanks for the photo, Phil. Where do you think the push force is applied with your rig? I've already envisioned the braces to the frame or jack legs for stability (to keep the power wheels from running out from under the kingpin) but still not sure how the power tug transmits movement to the kingpin without the tendency to walk out from under it?
The PC has a cup that accepts a 1/4" thick by 3" diameter round tube upright. This round tube is about 3' long and slips over the kingpin. This coupling is what moves the trailer, along with the two stabilizers from the fabbed round tube to the 5ver legs. It is a very slow movement which is great for maneuvering in tight places. If this isn't clear, let me know and I'll snap some detailed photos of the round tube and stabilizer legs that I constructed. I have used the PC to move three different 5vers over the last 15 years. I don't have to use it every time I park the 5ver but there are times when I need to move my 5ver, or for one reason or another, can't get it exactly where I want it in the yard using my truck.
Use the PowerCastor all the time. Great for tight places. You will have to fab some pieces for it to safely move your 5ver. It has a pigtail lead to connect to your trailer brakes (at the kingpin). I am very careful to have wheel chalks ready in case the motor stops, power is shutoff, etc. Common sense and load limits must be used.
BigToe - Good point and I agree. I don't think I'd want to chance Nylocks anywhere near the exhaust. There was a study that was completed years ago that found the optimum holding torque value was just below the yield point of the threads. This makes the fasteners a one-time use, similar to head bolts.
One of our biggest challenges for space applications is outgassing. Polymers, nylons, etc. all tend to outgas quite a bit of volatiles and for a long period of time. This can create problems for our optics and other sensors. Otherwise, we'd probably use Nylocks (but not near the exhaust of the thrusters... :)
Quote:Lock washers can be the problem sometimes because they break and fall out, i'd rather use loctite and or nylock nuts
Look on your truck, you won't find a lock washer/Quote.
And keep looking under your truck...you won't find a Nylock nut either!
Elevated underbody temperatures (like exhaust heat from turn up pipes over the axle, mufflers, catalytic converters, and diesel exhaust aftertreatment systems) can partially melt the elastomer in the nylock nut, whereupon it looses all of it's "locking" feature. The OEM's strongly caution approved vehicle upfitters about this.
The best nuts to use are prevailing torque flange nuts. The locking feature of the nut is inherent in the manufactured eccentricity in the thread bore. The friction loss potential is reduced by the elimination of a washer, ANY washer, and the friction/bearing surface is broadened by the integrated flange that is integral to the nut. This is the type of nut you will see under the truck. Any brand of truck... from Toyota to Peterbilt, and all the Ford/Chevy/Rams in between.
The reason why "double nutting" is not seen is because the second nut removes the preload off of the first nut. Friction is most important nearest the parts being clamped, which partially involves the mating surface of the parts themselves, as well as the first two threada after that surface to nut transition along the bolt axis. The second nut in a double nut situation can unload the torque value of the primary nut. Not something seen done by OEM's on vehicles either.
Actually, Nylocks are used in under hood applications in at least a few spots. All the GM intercooler hose clamps use Nylocks. Nylon melts somewhere in the 400+F region. Also, there are fiber (non Nylon) locking nuts that reportedly have a higher melt point). Nylocks are pretty pricey and in a production environment where thousands of units are being produced, this cost would most likely be deemed unacceptable for the risk/benefit ratio gained.
Flange bolt heads and flange nuts, at least when I was an engineer in aerospace/military, high production environments, was used primarily as a cost/labor savings. Good practice is to not let a hex head nut dig into the material being clamped. A flat washer helps avoids generating the metal particulates and also effectively distributes the clamping force. However, it takes additional time, stockroom space and materials management/procurement to deal with separate flat washers, so flange nuts and bolts solve this issue and save time and money.
From my perspective/experience, if a fastener is torqued properly it isn't going to back out in all but the most dynamic (thermal and mechanical) of environments. In my current business (spacecraft applications), we stake the head/side of the fastener with structural adhesive to ensure it doesn't move. I haven't measured the spring force of a 1/2" or 5/8" Grade 8 lock nut but they are pretty hefty and do their job well and I think they add a significant amount of insurance to a properly torqued fastener. Again, in a production environment, adding an additional piece to the fastener, or adding expensive Nylocks is not desirable for cost purposes and one shouldn't deem their absence or low usage in our vehicles as an indication of their reliability.
My two cents.
I know you can still break free bolts where you have used Blue Loctite but I didn't think you could even break the seal on anything you've used the Red Loctite on.
Having said that I think I would still double nut/Nylock those bolts as a fail safe.
From the Loctite website:
Loctite® Threadlocker Red 271™ is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).
Hey GoPack -
I'm not a big fan of Red Locktite but that is a personal preference. I don't have a lot of experience with it but the Locktite website says the Red locktite has a breakaway torque of 150-350 lb-in, for a 3/8 fastener. If you increase this by about a third, for a 1/2" fastener, this is roughly 40 ft/lbs. I think I'd probably break the bond of the Red loctite with my 18", 1/2" torque wrench at 85-100 ft/lbs. but I've never tried it. I agree the nylocks are a better option and I also think a Grade 8 locknut is great insurance.