RE: Trailer towing. Overdrive control on or off?
Assuming you have the E4OD transmission. I would recommend against towing in overdrive except on flat roads with no head wind. Even then if you are towing a large trailer I would still recommend against it. I would definately kick it out overdrive going downhill so you can get engine braking (because the coasting clutch is locked out). A problem that I have seen is torque converter clutch slippage codes when people tow in overdrive and the TCC is locked up. You get good mileage and low trans temps but the strain on the TCC friction area is too much for the small surface area and slippage occurs resulting in a check engine light. Spend a little more in fuel to save on transmission repairs.
RE: Trailer Towing – ST Tires vs. LT Tires by Mark Polk
No, so far I have never used TT tires (or car tires either) made in China. It is a choice.
What brand of ST 15 inch tires are you using that are not made in China?
Maxxis
RE: Expedition/Navigator Air Suspension Squat Question
Your air shocks in the front are leaking. After it kneels crawl underneath and spray windex or some other spray soap on the bladder. It is hard to see the bubbles because of the cover over the shaft and bag. The bladders usually leak in the lowered position. I would not wait too long to fix the leak, leaking bags are the main reason I replace failed airpumps. The pumps do not like to be run for long periods of time or often. When a bag has a leak it leaks as you go down the road and the bladder is flexed, turning on the compressor to replace the lost air. Ideally the pump only runs to restore ride height on start up (bringing ride height up from kneeling position and to compensate for load) and to lower the ride height at highway speed and raise it back up a low speeds. Check the rear bags for cracks/ leaks while you are under the truck, they don't last forever either. Also check the plug at the airpump controller behind the bumper under the right headlight. The connectors melt from heat generated by a poor connection. You can buy the pigtail separately.
I recommend OE replacement parts. If you do the rear bags be sure to install the upper keeper pins in the correct direction, the openning facing to the front or rear of the vehicle, not the side. Otherwise R & R ing the front shocks and rear bags is pretty easy.
RE: 2005 Weekend Warrior electrical shutoff switch
I have seen them at O'Riely's and other auto parts stores. It is rated for 70 amps. Myself I ditched that switch and went with a 200 amp Flaming River master cutoff switch in the negative cable at the battery.
RE: 07 F350 6.0 RPM Sweet Spot?
@NewS. Don't know of any updated coatings for the Turbo internals, the CHRA's are all rebuilts and have not changed in appearance. The latest reconditioning TSB has you coating all of the internals with high nickel anti sieze. And I always use a new unison ring.
@ wills250psd, if you bought before 2005 yes they had problems.
RE: 07 F350 6.0 RPM Sweet Spot?
Yes with the Tow/Haul/etc, academic or rhetorical with the newer computerized systems
My point is for the human to figure it out and manage it themselves. Plus answering
the OP's question directly knowing his era TV potentially has Tow/Haul
Tow/Haul was invented for those who do not understand and/or does NOT wish to
do it themselves. Then the forever discussion: "should I use tow/haul while towing?"
questions, along with the advice to: "yes" or "no, it will drop out of OD", etc
I'd love to tell them: "if you have to ask, use it", but that would
have that thread killed...
My 96 GMT400 does not have a tow/haul function and I manage it myself. Think better
than a tow/haul function to boot, as it is designed for the herd (fat part of the
bell curve of owners towing heavy) and too middle of the road for me
Both NewsW and Vulcaneer understand why at around 1,600 RPM's on the ICE in that
torque curve posted is the best place for power & economy. As you slide up the RPM
scale, the MPG goes down factored by MPH
Sorry, real world experience trumps your analysis of the torque/horsepower curves. You could tow with T/H off on this truck or run faster than 63 MPH with T/H on and the trans will be in high gear & TCC lock up. If you are not it T/H mode and you encounter even a slight grade and apply throttle to keep up your speed the exhaust temps will rise dramatically. NOT good. If you are in T/H mode the trans will downshift and pull the load then up shift again when you are greater than 63 mph. RPM is about 1800 in this situation, just loping along but with any crack of the throttle the engine will downshift. Running below 63 mph the rpm is about 2200 rpm with T/H mode on, right in the torque curve and the most effecient place for power and fuel economy. This engine does not pull at 1600 rpm unless running empty.
To the OP, why risk excessive exhaust temps and the damage it can do when the engineers at Ford have provided an operating strategy the they feel is the best for power/economy and the equipment. Just tow in T/H mode and enjoy the drive. The 6.0 was made to rev, it is not a 7.3 that makes USEABLE power at the low rpms (and not as much power as the 6.0). Lugging these EGR motors causes them to carbon up the intake, the EGR valve and the unison ring of the VGT turbo and it drives the EGT skyhigh. You want it to run good without problems drive it hard. The customers that commute in them or baby them are the ones that I am cleaning the turbos and replacing the EGR valves on. These are the people that are 'stressing' their motors with high EGT and plugging up the intakes with carbon. Don't be afraid to push it. the 8-10 psi of boost that you are seeing is nothing, push the throttle down and use some of the power that you paid for. Pulling those grades that I spoke of in my earlier post (HWY 88/Carson Pass Ben) I see 20 or so. If you have the latest PCM flash (TSB 09-24-3) the engine will go into limited power mode if the PCM sees an overboost condition (greater than 28.6 psi) protecting the headbolts from stretching and causing a headgasket leak. Of course if you do overboost you will have to get the problem diagnosed and repaired, common cause is a rusted/carboned up turbo unison ring/vanes which is cause by not working the truck or a worn unison ring.
another absolutism...
If I had this 6.0, I would also have the gauges to manage it myself
and NOT just stick to that 1,600 RPM as most folks who look in absolute
terms would do
"if you have to ask, use it"
There are a few things not available to me, if I had this 6.0, that
is managed with the T/H button, but that is also manageable with a
tuner (lock the TC is one)
Why reinvent the wheel and install a tuner? IMO the engineers at Ford are the experts on this and not some guy building programers or tuners in his garage. The proof is in all the problems people experience with mod'ed trucks.
RE: 07 F350 6.0 RPM Sweet Spot?
Sorry, real world experience trumps your analysis of the torque/horsepower curves.
Lugging these EGR motors causes them to carbon up the intake, the EGR valve and the unison ring of the VGT turbo and it drives the EGT skyhigh. You want it to run good without problems drive it hard. The customers that commute in them or baby them are the ones that I am cleaning the turbos and replacing the EGR valves on.
There was a rash of EGR valve problems until two things happened:
- Redesigned "pink dot" part that have much more power to open / shut.
- Sometime around 2007/8, fuel formulation changed
From 2008 onwards, IF a EGR system has been cleaned properly, and the valve replaced with the updated part, there are very few problems with the EGR system.
Notably, I have a grocery getter application for the last few years, and the EGR valve have not failed, clogged with carbon, nor have there been serious problems with carbon at all.
I do, once a month, do a few full throttle runs to clean RUST out of the turbo vanes, not carbon.
Think your information is dated--- my real world operating experience says there is no big problem with carbon clogging from newly cleaned updated EGR systems on the 6.0 since about 2009.
In fact, I have not even cleaned my EGR system since 2009 when it was updated --- there is no sign of problem at all.
Though I might pull it next summer just for funs sake.
To properly clean the EGR system the intake manifold has to come off to clean the passage. Heavily carboned up systems have chunks of carbon that break off and hold the valve open. The Pink dot EGR valve took care of the sticking shaft when hot problem. A number of EGR valves were changed because of a false P0404 DTC and sticking turbos which has been addressed by the latest reflash(TSB 09-24-3)issued DEC 2009. Also the EGR valve is now cycled at idle to keep it operating smoothly-let your truck idle, when the idle gets quiet the egr valve is open, raise the rpm it will close. Service trucks that have not had the latest flash and are used in stationary idle conditions still do have carbon problems as do vehicles that do a lot of idling or stop and go traffic. Just telling you what I see come through my shop.
Rust is a problem with the VGT and the primary reason for most of the CHRA replacements that I do. I don't know how well a few WOT blast is doing for you at taking care of keeping the turbo free from rust. It takes some work with a few abrasive discs to clean up the rust and sometimes pentrating oil to free up the vanes on the pivot pins so I can remove them. The VGT accuator is not that powerful and it is not uncommon for a customer to not know that they have frozen/sticking vanes, especially if they are not working the truck and it does not set a code, until I show them the VGT vane sweep accuator test results. Not driving the truck or short trips contributes to the rust problem. However gooey sticky carbon is still a problem that I see on trucks that see a lot of idling,are driven with a 'light foot' (lugged) or low speed driving. Lugging a diesel/over fueling scorches the fuel and creates carbon. If you see black smoke you are creating carbon. Also if the hour meter has a lot of time on it but the odometer reading is low 9 times out of 10 the engine will have a carbon problem if I have an overboost/underboost (p0234/p0299)code or symptoms that indicate a sticking EGR valve.
Other than going to low sulphur fuel I am not aware of any fuel changes that has reduced the build up of carbon. CJ-4 and later oils are claimed to reduce sooting/carbon but I still see it.
Once again just telling you what I see come through my shop, this info is not just from a sampling of 1 vehicle or what I read on the diesel truck forums.
RE: 07 F350 6.0 RPM Sweet Spot?
Yes with the Tow/Haul/etc, academic or rhetorical with the newer computerized systems
My point is for the human to figure it out and manage it themselves. Plus answering
the OP's question directly knowing his era TV potentially has Tow/Haul
Tow/Haul was invented for those who do not understand and/or does NOT wish to
do it themselves. Then the forever discussion: "should I use tow/haul while towing?"
questions, along with the advice to: "yes" or "no, it will drop out of OD", etc
I'd love to tell them: "if you have to ask, use it", but that would
have that thread killed...
My 96 GMT400 does not have a tow/haul function and I manage it myself. Think better
than a tow/haul function to boot, as it is designed for the herd (fat part of the
bell curve of owners towing heavy) and too middle of the road for me
Both NewsW and Vulcaneer understand why at around 1,600 RPM's on the ICE in that
torque curve posted is the best place for power & economy. As you slide up the RPM
scale, the MPG goes down factored by MPH
Sorry, real world experience trumps your analysis of the torque/horsepower curves. You could tow with T/H off on this truck or run faster than 63 MPH with T/H on and the trans will be in high gear & TCC lock up. If you are not it T/H mode and you encounter even a slight grade and apply throttle to keep up your speed the exhaust temps will rise dramatically. NOT good. If you are in T/H mode the trans will downshift and pull the load then up shift again when you are greater than 63 mph. RPM is about 1800 in this situation, just loping along but with any crack of the throttle the engine will downshift. Running below 63 mph the rpm is about 2200 rpm with T/H mode on, right in the torque curve and the most effecient place for power and fuel economy. This engine does not pull at 1600 rpm unless running empty.
To the OP, why risk excessive exhaust temps and the damage it can do when the engineers at Ford have provided an operating strategy the they feel is the best for power/economy and the equipment. Just tow in T/H mode and enjoy the drive. The 6.0 was made to rev, it is not a 7.3 that makes USEABLE power at the low rpms (and not as much power as the 6.0). Lugging these EGR motors causes them to carbon up the intake, the EGR valve and the unison ring of the VGT turbo and it drives the EGT skyhigh. You want it to run good without problems drive it hard. The customers that commute in them or baby them are the ones that I am cleaning the turbos and replacing the EGR valves on. These are the people that are 'stressing' their motors with high EGT and plugging up the intakes with carbon. Don't be afraid to push it. the 8-10 psi of boost that you are seeing is nothing, push the throttle down and use some of the power that you paid for. Pulling those grades that I spoke of in my earlier post (HWY 88/Carson Pass Ben) I see 20 or so. If you have the latest PCM flash (TSB 09-24-3) the engine will go into limited power mode if the PCM sees an overboost condition (greater than 28.6 psi) protecting the headbolts from stretching and causing a headgasket leak. Of course if you do overboost you will have to get the problem diagnosed and repaired, common cause is a rusted/carboned up turbo unison ring/vanes which is cause by not working the truck or a worn unison ring.
RE: 07 F350 6.0 RPM Sweet Spot?
To dispell some inaccuracies. The redline on the 6.0, the point at which it goes into fuel cut, is 4100 rpm. There is no power limiting on the engine except if there is a throttle by wire problem or boost exceeds 28.6 psi. This engine will pull and pull but exhaust temps will soar past 1600 degrees, which is why the owners manual warns against running the engine at max boost for too long (but lugging the motor will do the same thing). You need an exhaust temp gauge in this truck.
I have a stock 2005 F350 6.0 and I pull an 11000 trailer over an 8600 foot pass at least once a month year round, in temps from 25 degrees to over 100 degrees. Some of the grades are 9%.
I get the best performance, best mileage and lowest exhaust temps by towing in tow/haul mode and letting the trans determine the gear and rpm. I also drive by the exhaust temp gauge and strive to keep the temp below 1200 degrees on long pulls. Sometimes difficult to do at 8000 ft on a 9% grade when it is hot but I do it. Sometimes I will downshift to raise the rpm up to around 3000 rpm in an attempt to lower exhaust temps but I have found that it does little to increase my speed on a pull uphill. Want to get the best mileage slow down and let the trans pick the best gear. Going from sea level over the pass, a trip of 220 miles I will burn 32 gallons of fuel if I drive hard and 27 gallons if I drive as I described above. Mashing the throttle to the floor and holding it there usually results in burning more fuel and raising the exhaust temps skyhigh. When climbing a grade apply throttle to increase rpm and get the trans to pick a gear then back off slightly until you feel the truck stop pulling then reapply a slight amount of throttle-that is where the 'sweet spot' is for that particular situation. This also works for gas rigs.
RE: 4WD problems showing up today.
There is a common 'comb' ground at the front A pillars that loosens up, have to tilt the dash back to tighten. If other electrical components like the radio and HVAC are freaking out then this is your problem. If it is only the 4wd switch lights then you have a bad encoder sensor in the transfercase shift motor. Common problem also. About a 45 minute job, you have to remove the front driveshaft to remove the motor. You can replace just the sensor which is in the motor. Disassemble the motor halves, mark the gears, remove the sensor under the big gear, snap in the new one, reassemble the motor halves with a new o-ring and reinstall the motor. There is a specific torque pattern for the 3 bolts and the torque is pretty low, 13 ft/lbs IIRC. NO need to reinitialize anything, just make sure the motor is shifting and you are good to go.
RE: Bad Fuel Pump?
In addition to using an ignition control module input to command the fuel pump on and off Ford also uses an Inertia Switch that opens in a collision and kills power to the fuel pump. Usually mounted on the passenger side front kick panel.
All manufacurers kill the fuel pump when the engine shuts off but Ford feels that a collision does not always kill the motor so they added an inertia switch to ensure the fuel pump is shut off in a collision. Ford has been using this switch since atleast 1986 on all vehicles with an electric fuel pump, maybe earlier.
RE: Bad Fuel Pump?
Go to the fuel pump inertia switch and make sure it is not tripped. Look at the wire colors, I think it is pink or pink/black stripe. Then crawl under the truck and split open the wiring loom on the drivers side. Find the wire with the same color as the one at the inertia switch. Tap into the wire with a volt meter and find a good ground under the truck to attach the ground lead of the voltmeter to. Have some one turn the key to the run position while you watch the voltmeter. When the key is first turned on the wire will be energized with 11-12 volts for 2 seconds. No voltage start at the fuse and work back. If you have voltage you most likely have a bad fuel pump or connection at the tank.
RE: 4 PCM Flashing Questions
When you reflash a Ford, either through IDS Ford scanner or a J2534 tool it will update all the modules (ficm, pcm,tcm). Whenever you have a driveability problem the first thing the tech should do is check for software updates, some problems can be fixed only with a reflash. Many times there will be a TSB that describes what the reflash does, sometimes not. Reflashes do nothing to the sensors, only the module software however sometimes the reflash will change the way the computer looks at a sensor and intreprets the data. You can only program a new PCM with "as built" programming. Once a module has software installed you can only go up with reflashes, never back to a previous version.
Without knowing the TSB or special service message (SSM) that may be associated with the reflash no one can answer you question. Sometimes when reflashing a Ford a screen will show up that gives TSB's or SSM's that the refer to what the reflash does, ask the guy who did the reflash these questions. But he may not know either.
RE: Bad Fuel Pump?
Had a starting problem on my 2003 mustang last year, I tried all the above relays, fuses, inertia switch, filter everything, the car only had 30,000 miles so I thought it coulden't possable be the pump. Well I dropped the tank pulled the pump stuck it on a battery and it purred right along, hmmm, turns out for a few years the fuel pump ford used runs on variable voltage controled by the PCM. No way to simulate out of the car but my pump simply didn't want to work at startup voltage. Put a new pump in and it fired right up no problem since. Dealer wanted $500 for the pump, autozone wanted $90. End of story, good luck with your truck.
The pulse width modulated fuel pumps run at full power on start up. The fuel pump module controls the speed through the ground circuit for the pump so to command max pump speed you can ground the control wire at the module. The operation of this system can be diagnosed with a scanner.
On thing to remember, as you found out, just because a pump runs on the bench when hooked up to 12 volts does not mean it is good. When operating correctly these pumps turn at 5000 to 6000 rpm. Some cars will start and run when the pump armatures start dragging and the pump turns slower but the have starting/ driveability problems and eventually die. To determine pump speed I use an inductive amp meter and a lab scope. I look at the fuel pump current waveform which shows the current flow through each circuit of the pump armature as a little hump. By counting the number of humps in a 10 millisecond period I can determine the armature speed since every fuel pump uses an 8 commutator bar armature (Just take my word for it, takes too long to explain the math :) ).
There is actually more to diagnosing a fuel pump than just pressure and volume. A fuel pump waveform will catch problems that a fuel pressure gauge will miss like an open commutator bar which is a common cause if intermittnet no starts- when the tow truck driver bangs on your fuel tank and the car starts he is actually moving the armature past the open commutator bar so the pump will start turning.
RE: Bad Fuel Pump?
Another thing to consider is a PATS (passive anti-theft system) failure. There are 5 or 6 differnt strategies that Ford uses and a few of the just disable the fuel pump and injectors. Is the theft light flashing after cranking when the engine does not start? If so you have a problem. Try a different key by it self, no other keys, store cards flash passes etc near the column. If it starts you have a corupted key.
RE: Bad Fuel Pump?
Another thing to consider is a PATS (passive anti-theft system) failure. There are 5 or 6 differnt strategies that Ford uses and a few of the just disable the fuel pump and injectors. Is the theft light flashing after cranking when the engine does not start? If so you have a problem. Try a different key by it self, no other keys, store cards flash passes etc near the column. If it starts you have a corupted key.
RE: Bad Fuel Pump?
The FP relay is in battery junction box mounted by the brake master cylinder under the hood. You will need the owners manual to ID the relay position. IIRC it is one of the two relays next to the only circuit breaker in the battery junction box. If you decide to replace the fuse use a quality fuse, not a no name Harbor Freight or like brand fuse, there is a difference in quality and protection.
RE: Bad Fuel Pump?
Will Motorcraft replace the part? Will a dealer trade it out for a new one? I don't have the box. I'll get the mechanic to rule everything else out.
I buy all my Ford parts wholesale from a local dealer, they warrantied the part and paid R & R labor. Don't know what they will do for you since you bought online.
172k miles is a lot of key cycles. Everytime the relay is deenergized there is an arc across the relay points. Over time this can pit the points and cause an intermittent no start. I'd replace the relay also.
RE: Bad Fuel Pump?
If you have the Ford 11 digit part number on the Motorcraft box your pump came in compare the last 2 letters with what is available today. If it is different then the pump has been upgraded or sourced from another vendor. Your local Ford dealer maybe able to take your 11 digit part number and tell you if it was included in the stock pull and return and replaced with a new part number.
RE: Bad Fuel Pump?
Ford had run of bad Motorcraft fuel pumps from a vendor that was going bankrupt. I replaced quite a few new pumps within 3-6 months of service. Typically the pumps died and were not an intermittent problem. This was about 11/2 years ago, what is the build date on the pump you bought online? The output state test on the scanne will energize the fuel pump, as does just turning on the key. The key will energize the pump for 2 seconds, enough time to bring the system to max pressure if everything is operating correctly.
Sounds like you need to break out a wiring diagram and volt meter and start checking things when you have your next no start event. Don't overlook the fuel pump relay. Failing pumps can damage the points in the relay causing intermittent no starts. IMO 60k miles between fuel filter changes is too long. Refueling when you are at 1/4 tank instead of E will also prolong fuel pump life.
