Very over simplified here, but let's say a stick and brick purchased for $100,000. Forget about tax, insurance, etc. Just the price tag.
Very decent Trailer at 50,000. Average 50 a night for 365 days is 18,250, for a total of 68,250. Leaving 31,750 for everything else to equal the 100,000.
I'd argue that 100,000 is pretty low for an average house, and 50,000 is probably high for a decent trailer. Gas, food, insurance, etc can eat up that 31,000 pretty quick, but that's just year one.
If you had 100,000 and zero income, you're done either way. If you have an income that'll cover monthly bills either way, the trailer wins for cost, but obviously loses big for investment. All depends on what you want out of it. Secure investment or life of travel.
Even for Ca, I'd call first. Many state parks have a posted limit due to being on the coast or in the Sierras. But they're based on old roads in many cases. One state beach had a 20ft limit because of the road getting in. They've redone the road and can easily fit a 35ft. The limit is still there, but rangers know the reality and will tell you.
Same in the Sierras. My favorite campground has a 30ft limit. But a 40ft pusher easily fits with room to spare since they redone access road.
You have never had an rv and your going to go out full time with 2 teenagers that's a bold step
you have just won the understatement of the month prize.
I never did a lot of things till I did. I understand a lot of people would be too scared to try this, especially jumping in head first. But it's not as scary as everyone seems to think.
And cheaper? Ummm, yes it is. Almost everywhere, but especially compared to a stick house of average size in most major developed areas.
It's a HUGE adjustment. Very different lifestyle, and everyone should be on board and prepared for unforeseen stuff. But it's just not as scary as most on this site seem to think, and no where near as expensive as people MAKE it.
I only post as an alternative opinion to those against the overall idea. Renting one first isn't andssnlternative horrible idea, but it's no where near the same as living in one.
With the info given so far, I'd say Class C or roof top tent.
Class C will give you the most comfort for the extended time and you'll be be to sell it after if you desire.
Roof top tent will allow you to keep the Outback, and should easily have room for 4 dogs if the right configuration is purchased. Not as easily sold afterwards though. And doesn't have the creature comforts obviously .
Only other option is to purchase a real tow vehicle, THEN shop for trailers. I love Outbacks, but they were not designed for towing.
Must be the off season. Several pages of what drill to use for jacks! For the record, I don't use one. Not because I don't want to, but because I keep forgetting to bring one with me. And my stabs squeaked louder than any drill, no matter what lube I used.
What we really need to know is if the OP has a big enough truck to haul the drill!
I like the tiny homes. Not for everyone, but I see the appeal. I watch the shows and the ones talking about saving money usually have somewhere to put it already. The rest seem to just want a more simplistic life.
In any case, I like the shows simply because they are interesting and sometimes give me ideas about better storage solutions. Both at home and in the trailer.
As for zoning codes, I hope someone wins a lawsuit someday doing away with zoning codes except where they might impact the environment.
I live in an area now where there aren't many zoning laws. But we do have some stupid ones. For example, I'm not allowed by law to NOT have electricity. Code said I MUST be hooked up to electricity. Had to file for an exemption. It was granted, so I'm one of 3 houses out of 2150 that don't have power.
Why? When I did some digging, I found articles written back in the 40s talking about it. The express purpose was to discourage people from living "independent of the common interest of the township."
It's ok not to have sewage because half the area doesn't have access to city sewage lines. But they've asked the county to participate in adding the lines. Then the idea is to force everyone on it. Even the ones who've been on septic for generations.
We've given some conflicting info here.
One, I agree you don't need the hitch. That weight is usually easily handled by your average truck or SUV. But you didn't state what it'd be towed with. Worse case scenario, I'd hire someone to tow it before I bought a new hitch that I wouldn't use afterwards.
Batteries. You simply won't need it after being towed (I'd not tow a trailer without the brakes working). Borrow one for towing, then you can forget about it. I can't imagine that year trailer coming with a converter that needed a battery as a buffer while on shore power. The only reason I can think of for having a battery is to use as a backup for power outages. In which case, a cheaper deep cycle battery would be more than enough. Up to you.
Inspections. Just a way to make money. But make sure the warranty doesn't specify it MUST be inspected. That's if the trailer even comes with a warranty.
"No confusion here in the Southwest: Red Flag warnings mean NO wood or charcoal fires and propane STOVE ONLY with an issued fire permit." - Tplife
As stated in my previous post, it has been our experience the NPS, USFS, BLM and COE consider a propane campfire to be a stove and govern their use under a common criteria Translation - If a propane stove is permitted, a propane campfire will be allowed under the same caveats. There is no relationship between wood or charcoal campfire bans and propane campfire restrictions.
This policy was consistent as recently as last Fall during our stay at a number of campsites in the Four Corners area which, I believe, would geographically be considered in the 'Southwest'. I called Big Bend NP earlier this AM to check on another issue related to our western trip next week and also asked about use of our Campfire in a Can. I was told wood and ground fires are currently banned but propane campfires are permitted for aesthetics or cooking. Feel free to check with them @ 432.477.2251 and get back to us.
To state that propane campfires are prohibited when propane stoves are allowed is both inaccurate and misleading.
Sorry, I couldn't follow your calcs but I never implied propane campfires were comparable to wood fires with regard to heat output so not sure what you're arguing there. I'm a forestry professional and do know that wood produces around 6,200 BTU's/lb while propane generates 21,600 BTU's/lb but I'll willingly concede you can build a wood fire large enough to produce more heat than a propane campfire if that was your point.
At the same time, I'll assure you my CFIAC will generate two foot high flames and toast anything close by when at its max setting. Personally, we prefer a small fire (wood or propane).
I'm happy to hear things are different in North Caroline or wherever it is you go camping. Here in the California forests, they only allow a propane stove, in a developed campground, with a signed permit, during Red Flag warning periods (one just ended this evening). No campfires, no charcoal, no propane firepits. That's why we don't own one. For us there's no point in owning a firepit we can't use during Red Flag warnings in our NFS and SFS and BLM campgrounds.
That's not really accurate. Depends on the land, geographical location, etc. In the Stanislaus National Forest, where I live, fires are often permitted in developed campgrounds, even during a "fire ban" in the forest. When it gets bad enough in a particular area, a campground may be posted as banning wood or charcoal fires, but will still allow propane stoves and propane fire pits that fit inside the fire ring.
And the Forest Service does not require a permit at any time for burning INSIDE a fire ring in a developed campground.
There's too many variables to diagnose it over the internet. And we'd need you to actually try some of the suggestions and report back what happened.
Or.....you could just take it back since it's brand new and have it repaired/replaced under warranty.
If you don't want to do that, fine. But lose the attitude. Yes, people often miss things while reading through posts. But you're the one asking for help. A little patience would be appropriate on your part. Especially if you have an easy option you refuse to take
Forgot to add:
Read your user manual for the furnace. It may actually say to wait several seconds between each try. And if you start smelling propane, stop and let the rig air out. That smell means it's not a new thermocouple issue.
If everything is working as you said it's either a gas delivery problem, ignition problem, or thermocouple problem.
I've seen brand new thermocouples take upwards of 10 to 15 tries before they heat up consistently enough to keep a pilot light going. The solution there is to keep trying it repeatedly until it works or you hit the 10 tries mark. If that don't do it, it's probably not a problem.
Gas supply and ignition problem are probably best left up to a qualified repairman rather than an Internet forum.
This exercise is straight out of the "new" college of business. The purpose is to get employees engaged and mentally prepared for something they'd otherwise dread....the Monday meetings. And, if you think about it, he succeeded. Even though you're asking for help online, you're effectively engaged and preparing for it.
It's like the set of steak knives for reaching a goal. But the "set of steak knives" in this case is confidence or even pride in your answer. Or in yourself. Also helps create a bit of competition within the group to strive to do well in front of each other.
Beats the death by power point that my career has succumb to.
I would consider raising it up a few inches. When I bought my trailer, the previous owner had a very similar set up. The gen platform dragged on the ground at anything more than a standard driveway angle.
It wasn't noticeable to the eye, but it had been bent just enough that I couldn't remove it. Eventually had to cut it off