I do not care how much research you have done/will do, in the end the only way to get the "right" coach is to get into the RV lifestyle. If you buy one of the coaches you mention I will bet that you will trade coaches at least three times in the first five years. I stated on another thread that either arrogance or ignorance has someone start RVing in a 40-ft diesel coach. Are you prepared for a "house" of 500 sq ft? Are you ready to fork over $200 for a fresh load of diesel? How about $4000+ for a new set of tires? Also, the list of owners that have owned their coach for 20 years is so small they would be considered the true one percenters. If everything goes as planned for you, after three to five years you will see a coach that has better "stuff" in it. Also, just as with any vehicle, there is a point in ownership where maintenance costs will rise to an unacceptable level. By the way, get a good set of tools before you head to Juneau and check a map so you know how to spell it.
I fully agree with jmtandem. Either arrogance or ignorance has someone start RVing in a 40-ft diesel. I do not blame you for being highly concerned. What was the largest vehicle you drove before buying a 40 footer? As opposed to the latest autos you cannot just drive and add fuel and oil. These things need to be maintained and not just by a mechanic. If you are not handy stand by to be writing many checks, some small, some not so small. I would venture to say that most of the folks on these forums have a set of tools and know how to use them. Do you?
The rules for your PenFed card usually depend on what they are/were when you got your card. Also, those rules stay in place (grandfathered) when PenFed puts new rules in place. However, just like USAA, I think that PenFed places card holders in categories depending on your status when you join. If that is true, your category could determine whether or not you are grandfathered when the rules change. For example, as a retired civil servant, I have had a PenFed card for at least 8 years and the rules for my card have never changed. I have a $5 regular account and a Rewards credit card for which I get 5% pay at the pump fuel/3% groceries/1% everything else and when I have enough points I get a $50 debit card. If you join under some other category they may change.
It does not hold the transmission in a higher gear. It delays the shift point which is why it is recommended for use in rolling terrain. Other than rolling terrain it is of marginal value. In other than rolling terrain, i.e., the mountains the recommendation is to turn it off. For the best explanation of this topic contact Brett Wolfe.
Realistically, Atlanta is no worse than most metropolitan areas. Try LA at any time, or St Louis, etc. If you want to avoid winding two lanes and major metropolitan areas and stay warm you have very few options. My advise is to pick a route and go. Hundreds, if not thousands, of snowbird RVs transit Atlanta each fall and spring with no, or little, problems. Having been through Atlanta twice a year for 11 years the only problems that we have seen are caused by accident-caused backups and those are a possibility everywhere. Every years there is more traffic and very few additional roads.
For anyone who has property in FL it makes good sense. However, in our park there are virtually no florida licensed RVs. There are, however, quite a number of park model owners that now have FL plates.
For 16 ply 295 Michelins: List price $777, FMCA price $679 includes FET. Valve stems $7.50, Mount/dismount $21, Balancing $31, remove & install wheel $18, plus and state, county, city taxes. All of that is per tire. You dealer may have different labor costs.
Since your coach is new it would be a warranty issue. That is probably why your dealer would not work on it. Also a turn signal issue is somewhat unique. For an issue such as this you would not take a new Chevrolet to a Ford dealer. As a side note, it is a good idea to first go to your dealer because it can, at times, be difficult for an owner to understand what belongs to Freightliner and what belongs to the chassis manufacturer.
Remember, that a motorhome is a large slab-sided box. Nothing like the PU you have been driving. The air currents and any wind will affect the motorhome much more than any auto/truck-sized vehicle. Some of the "sway and playing" you are experiencing is not actually there but since you are sitting higher it will seem to be a bigger problems. It is somewhat in the same region as how much faster you will seem to be going in any vehicle the closer you are to the pavement. All that having been said any motorhome has a higher center of gravity than any car/truck vehicle. Try riding along while someone else drives the motorhome and see what your perceptions are. I think that you are worrying more about perception than reality.
Recently traded a 2004 Honda CR-V for a 2014 Chevy Equinox two wheel drive. I had one issue that others might be interested in. When the base plate was installed I also had a charge line installed. The owner's manual says to remove a fuse to prevent battery discharge. Well, clever me, on short trips why would I remove the fuse since I have a charge line and even for a car with a nav system 125 miles should be no problem. However, I noticed that when turning a corner the auto front wheels did not trail, not good. This car has electric power steering. Talking to a Chevy mechanic I found out that a second reason to pull the stated fuse was to remove power from the electric steering motor. With power on the motor, when towing the car, the front wheels are, is essence, locked straight ahead and are not allowed to trail. This model has had electric power steering for a number of years. I am surprised this issue has not been stated previously.