RE: What is a OPEN NEUTRAL
Lot's of bad info on this thread. Some real good info too. Problem is if you can figure out what is bad and what is good you don't really need to read the thread because you already know the answer. Be real careful about taking advise on this topic.
And by the way, if you really do lose the neutral on a 50 amp service you'll likely let the smoke out.
1. Correct on the bad advice.
2. Smoke out? Really? Care to expound on that?
RE: Dryer adapter 30 Male/50 Female 18"
Good gravy man, just buy a dryer cord that will fit the outlet and install a 50A female on the end. You will be able to run both ACs. Just don't try and run the electric HWH.If it's a 30 amp 240 plug you will SMOKE almost everything in the RV, that's why!
Really? Explain to me why? He stated he has a 50A service.
RE: Dryer adapter 30 Male/50 Female 18"
Good gravy man, just buy a dryer cord that will fit the outlet and install a 50A female on the end. You will be able to run both ACs. Just don't try and run the electric HWH.
RE: 208v available
Despite MrWizards emphatic no, you can use 208 power for your coach. The 208volts is measured between two phases of a three phase power source. However, when you measure from either phase to neutral you will read 120vac. (To check me out on this, divide 208 by the square root of 3 and you will get 120vac.) This is a very common connection in commercial buildings where some loads require 3 phase power, but the building occupant also requires 120v for convenience outlets and lighting.
You can install a standard 50amp outlet from the breaker panel, with two hot leads connected to two of the phases, the neutral connected to the neutral and the ground connected to the ground and it will work perfectly.
If you require further verification, check the National Electrical Code, but make sure you check the most recent 2008 edition. The code has been revised to allow campgrounds to be wired with 208v three phase power because this will be easier than the current method using "two phase" 240/120. Since the vast majority of RVs do not NEED 240v, this power connection will work fine. I have discussed the difference between 208v and 240v with suppliers of automatic power sensing systems used in RVs and they do not anticipate a problem when an RV equipped with an automatic system is plugged into a new campground system which supplied only 208v. Please understand that there is not a concern about the 208v doing the job, only that the auto sensing might detect a difference.
Go ahead and do it, it will work fine. Just be sure you have a qualified electrician do the work.
Great post!
Also, for those of you who answered this won't work for 240V appliances, look on the back of most of today's appliances and they are also rated for 208V.
RE: Electric panel tapping
Jeez, what a can of worms I opened.
No, I do not provide knockouts. I either leave the panel open and tell the person "don't touch, electricity bad" or just loosely screw the cover on.
Typically I stay with good friends who don't mind me messin' around with their panel. Probably because I have most likely wired something in their house.
I was just trying to find out if anyone else did this.
"A friend is someone who helps you move, a good friend is someone who helps you move the body."
Electric panel tapping
Does anyone else here carry a cord, receptacle, and a breaker to hook up to an electric panel (i.e. if you are staying at a friend's or family's house)? I carry 3 breakers (Square D QO, a BR type, and Cutler Hammer CH) to get me through 99% of situations. It's nice to have 50A and run both AC's and HWH.
RE: Black water tank----Same Old Same problem
One thing a lot of people are not aware of is many (if not all) toilets have a goose neck "P trap" that goes from just under the edge of the rim to the black tank. It is supposed to have water in it but if it sits for a long time without being refilled, the water will evaporate which allows a direct open line from the black tank to the inside of the RV. Before every trip I fill the toilet to the brim and allow the water to fill the P trap. You can probably tell if you have one by inspecting under the rim flange. There will be what looks like a small overflow hole. My trap is a clear piece of plastic pipe bent into an S shape. Of course you can't see the clear hose unless you remove and disassemble the toilet.
One thing, I'm not really sure what it's for since the black tank is already vented. I just can't think of any reason for it to be there - but it is.
Most residential toilets have what you describe because they use the gallon of water from the tank to flush the toilet. This causes the water to rush through the P section.
However, most RV toilets just use a ball valve at the bottom and the waste drops into the tank.
Another culprit for smell is having the vent fan on and flushing or leaving the ball valve open letting the water rinse the bowl. Better way is to fill the bowl then flush, only leaving the tank open to atmosphere for a brief time.
RE: Moisture in New Itasca "StoreMore" Exterior Compartments
My opinion is that there is a leak. This is causing the water in the compartment and the weather changes causes this water to evaporate and condense. Look for any piping running above the area.
It could have gotten wet by leaving a compartment open also. If it isn't allowed to dry out properly, then the whole evaporation/condensation issue will stay.
RE: Mysterious Leak - Next Step?
I used an an old furnace blower in a window that I rigged up to pressurize the interior to check for leaks. Seal up all the air leaks with cardboard. Don't forget the stove vent. Mop on soapy water...roof cut outs, windows, etc. Any leak will show up with bubbles.
Good luck.
http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc232/mrdogjaw/Bubbleleaktestfar.jpg
Very nice!
RE: Winnebago Windshield
Now it all makes sense! The rubber "seal" is really just a trim piece; thanks to y'all!
I may be pushing my luck but have any of you found a reasonable solution to the fogged up double pane side window? So far, I found a company in Hudson, FL that will fix those windows but the best quote they will give me is $100.00/hour, but no guess as to how many hours. I also found a 2 page DIY solution that requires window removal, drilling holes in the seal between the windows, heating with a hair dryer, etc.
1998 Winnie Chieftain 35' Ford Triton V-10 Gas-burner, w/2 slides
One Wife, One Rascal-Doggie
One 30 year old Triumph Spitfire toad (I bought the RV to tow the Spit, when it breaks down!)
Replace the window. Most double pane windows have an inert gas in them. If you drill a hole and dry it out, you would have to fill it again with an inert gas to prevent the moisture from coming back. At $100/hour, I think you could replace the window for the same or less than that job would cost.
RE: basic electricity: how to learn
Just keep in mind , when the carpenter makes a mistake the door sticks or the roof leaks , if the plumber makes a error there are back ups or leaks, when the electrician makes a mistake it burns the house down or kills someone.
Get some hands on teaching , books arn't the best way to learn about wiring.
With the above logic, the carpenter could make a mistake and the roof fall on you or the plumber make a mistake and you drown. Actually, when the electrician makes a mistake, the breaker trips. Especially with todays requirements for AFCI breakers. I digress...
Yes, pick up a basic home wiring book at Lowe's or Home Depot. You will be ahead of 90% of the homeowners out there that try and repair their own wiring. Good business for me though.
Rich
Master Electrician (20 years experience)
