Leave out the fiberglass because it absorbs water. Prime with an epoxy automotive primer then caulk it with a good 3M auto body seam sealer and paint over the top of it to seal it..Stop trying to overthink this..it will get you nowhere.
The gutter has been repaired and filled before I bought the van. Unfortunately, I'm fairly certain there will be rust holes in the gutter and through the roof of the van after I remove the old body filler.
Iv read good reviews about POR-15 49033 Epoxy Putty and was going to use it to repair rust holes instead of the fiberglass patch I first mentioned. Then bondo over the 49033 Epoxy Putty.
Then your probably correct that 3M seam sealer would be better than NP1 or Vulkem 116 even though they all are Urethane/polyurethane.
I drive work vehicles, so I'm not concerned about how they look. But I recently rebuilt the cummins engine in my ford E350 tow vehicle, so Iv got allot of money wrapped up in it.
My problem is that even though the undercarriage is spotless since the van is from Florida, the rain drip edge gutter has some rust from the salt air.
I will wire wheel the gutter down to bare metal, treat with rust neutralizer, fill any holes with fiberglass patch, and prime and paint with POR-15. I would then like to fill the entire gutter full of exterior caulk with UV protection instead of auto-body seam sealer so that the gutter no longer collects water. The caulk I choose needs to be removable, because the gutter will rust again as this is a temporary fix short of cutting out and welding in new metal which I cant justify.
Can anyone recommend or educate me on the best, longest lasting removable caulks on the market for my application? Iv read Geocel 2300 (Tripolymer), solarseal 900 (Terpolymer), 3M4200(polyurethane), NP1(polyurethane), Vulkem 116(polyurethane), Sika Flex (Polyurethane), Dymonic (hybrid), Kop-R-Lastic (thermoplastic) are some good choices, but making a decision is difficult with so many products.
I noticed polyurethane caulks dominate my list so I'm guessing polyurethane must last the longest? I don't want silicone because of it's "wont stick to itself" and difficult removal properties.
I just purchased a used Continental cargo toy hauler. 23ft on inside, 15 1/2ft of garage with flip down beds. up front cabinets with sink and stove across front, bath on one side and fridge on opposite, takes up about 8ft of floor space.
Aluminum? Sounds like my big old featherlite except my garage didn't have a wall.
Iv got a few known aluminum trailers set up as search's on ebay..
If anyone knows of other aluminum trailer brands I should consider, please post it.
You may find a Featherlite used like you want. I ordered a 14' around 2009. Aluminum floor and 7' ceiling were just normal options. Some other options I got you may want to look for:
Aluminum ramp, Rear stabilizer jacks, Roof vent, Camper door, Front gravel guard, Spare tire/rim, Two side vents, Electric brakes both axles, LED lights, 2" coupler
I sold this trailer years ago, but if you want to see, the build on it is here:
Darn.. That's perfect.
I wish I had known it was for sale back then.. If you told me who owns it now, I would contact them.
But not tall and wide enough. :S
That one has 6'-6" interior height. How tall do you want it? A 7' tall cargo trailer will be unusual. Aluma trailers have plywood lined walls, according to their web site. You could tear them out and put in some Azdel.
It sounds like you want to avoid wood construction to avoid any maintenance. I just had all the roof seams on my toy hauler re-caulked at an RV repair shop. I think it's not a difficult job if you know how. It probably takes some practice. They recommend getting up on the roof every 3 months to inspect the seams for cracks, and replacing all the caulking every two years. I would be surprised if even the aluminum trailers don't have some caulked seams.
You're not likely to find exactly what you want in a used trailer. Either have one custom built or modified, or make some compromises.
Thanks atwowheelguy. It was more the width of the trailer I linked that wasn't wide enough. Height was OK..
I redid the roof caulk on my toyhauler.. It was a pain scraping it all and cleaning down to the aluminum, but after days, it got done.. All seventy feet of it.
Cargo's dont have as many penetrations to the envelope and are less likely to leak. My leaks on the featherlite were mainly windows and roof. But I did find one I had no idea was leaking and weakened the floor right under the propane vent.
I will say it again.. Eventually all trailers leak and its only a matter of time before any wood is damaged.
I dont mind compromising. If I keep looking I might finally find one.
That, and all trailers leak and its only a matter of time before the floor is damaged.
Who said they all leak? Where's t he data to support that idea?
Your kidding.. Right?
Many of them leak right out of the factory.
Iv been fighting leaks the entire time I owned my featerlite. Granted it was used, but your relying on a caulked seam which sits in the sun and beats down the road. It will fail eventually..
The guy who bought my featherlite paid my asking price after looking at many used wooden toyhaulers trashed by water damage.. His brother owns a RV dealership and had seven brand new forest river toyhaulers in for warranty repair with leaks..
Water and wood dont mix.
Im the type to run the wheels off what I own. But its hard to run the wheels off when its rotting away.
ATC might have one....or you could line the walls and floor with bed liner material, they are using it on roofs now, very waterproof.
I found the perfect size ATC.. But it again had wood floors covered with aluminum deck plate.. :S
I did see a featherlite gooseneck toyhauler first hand with aluminum floors in the back garage area.
I just wish a few trailer manufacturers installed aluminum floors all the time. Because trying to find one in the length I want, which was probably a special order, will be tough.
Can you say "Very slippery"?
Very slippery... ;)
A little grip tape would be in order. Or just toss a water heater pan down during the shower.. The trailer would have a small kitchen and bathroom.
I know its a minimalist plan, and I run on the cheap. But I'm alone and don't want anything longer than 12' because I'm going off road. And then attach a tent to the trailer for sleeping.
order what you want they,ll build it ,
If I buy new, its worth half of what I paid as soon as I roll it off the lot. I try to buy used so I don't loose as much money when I sell it.
I sold my featherlite for as much as I invested in it.
I sold my 24' featherlite surv toyhauler and wasn't easy because I knew it would be hard to find anything built as well. My only problem with the featherlite was it was way to long to tow to the remote locations I now want to go knowing how thick the crowds can be at the easily traveled camp grounds.
My new plan is to build what I want since it doesn't exist, but I need a all aluminum cargo trailer around 12' long as my canvas. My featherlite actually had a wood floor, but I don't want any wood.
Iv found allot of aluminum trailers which also have wood floors like my featherlite, but I'm not interested because I want to be able to shower in my new project trailer with no enclosure (only a curtain) to save space. Really, the shower is the only thing which is stopping me from looking for a wooden floor trailer. That, and all trailers leak and its only a matter of time before the floor is damaged.
Does anyone make a smaller aluminum utility trailer which is truly all aluminum? Mono coupe construction without a frame like my featherlite would be a huge plus as well because there are no frame rails in the way for water tank installation.
This looks like the St. Mary KOA outside Glacier National Park. Probably one of 3 days per year the flags aren't being ripped from the flagpole by the strong winds!
Out of 9 days the only moment the wind didn't blow.
That's why I sold my toyhauler and now enjoy the view from my laptop.
We had the same problem in our motorhome. Wall was wet right in the middle below the window and you would have sworn it was the window leaking. It was outside - bad caulk on a seam.
BINGO I removed all of the old sealant on the roof seam I thought looked good and resealed with proflex. It rained hard today and it's dry ! I don't know why the paneling wasn't wet above the window and my back is still sore days later.
Harbor Freight sells a small blower and even a tube for mounting: Ventilator. It is enough air to do a pressure test. I'd suggest to do the test.
Also occurs to me that if you had silicone sealant, originally, and now are using butyl tape, there may be water passing between the two.
Thanks. I'll consider that fan for the next leak. :B
I removed all the silicone the first time the window was out. I had more luck with my fingernail and a eraser.
Water could be coming in the seam in your exterior wall panel above the window, and working its way down the wall, going around the window, then showing up below the window.
Why is there a seam in the wall - previous damage ?
The exterior aluminum sheets are 4' wide. Water could be leaking at that seam, although I think its unlikely.
Then again, it just rained hard and I see no water in or around the window.
It must be leaking from that side seam or the roof seam.
I wish there was a easy way to pressurize the trailer so I could do the soap bubble test.
Ive got HEHR windows..
Looks like the glazing is available. But I'm not convinced the glazing is my problem because the channels and weep holes are clean.
After talking with HEHR, I was told the glazing is simply a cosmetic trim and doesn't seal water out.
So I'm back to square nothing.
As you can see, Iv been fighting this a long time..
Maybe the roof is leaking.
Keep in mind that asking about your window glazing, we have no idea what kind of windows you have. A picture might help.
Yes sorry, and here is a old picture before the window was ever removed.
Anybody know, or guess who makes the windows I have?
The interior paneling is wet below the window. Not above, or to the sides. The paneling remained dry while the window was temporarily sealed up with plastic and tape.
Since the paneling is trashed now from water damage, I'm tempted to remove the paneling to track the leak. But I would have to remove the bed that's mounted to the wall.
Iv had a reoccurring window leak. Iv removed the window three times. The first time, it had the factory silicone which was replaced with good butyl tape which looked good the next two window removals. The last time I removed the window I removed the glazing and found some mud blocking the weep hole, so I figured I had found the underlying issue. But a few weeks later, I still have wet interior paneling! Thank god I have a aluminum trailer!
Anyway, I'm beside myself right now because I again removed the glazing to find its still clean under it and I'm sure the butyl is doing its job sealing the window to the trailer.
What is the life span of window glazing? And is that the only thing which could allow water in since I'm sure the window is sealed to the trailer?
I'm just about ready to trade my trailer in for a tent!
I'm thinking about boon-docking the west side of the la plata mountains in my lifted 30' toy-hauler the end of August because Iv heard it not as busy as other parts of Colorado..
I'm hoping I can make it up Echo Basin (Rd 566) towing with my 2wd E350 and hope to find a dispersed site near a creek with a view.
Iv heard I can dump black water at Santa Rita park south end of Durango. But I haven't pinpointed where I can get fresh water and other camping related things.
Is anyone familiar with this area and could recommend places to camp and pick up fresh water etc?