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Forum
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RE: Most reliable connector. semi 7 pin or RV blade ?
The EZ Connector is on my list. Making a pigtail is a non-issue so that other vehicles can pull the TT. And, as anti-theft, it doesn't hurt to use non-standard.
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Agreed..
This one's nice too. $81 for the pair
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rerod
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05/17/13 09:27pm |
Towing
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RE: Most reliable connector. semi 7 pin or RV blade ?
I don't like exterior parts made from plastic. Especially critical parts.
So I take it you won't be flying on a B787 anytime soon?;)
Last time I flew in one, we took off but turned around and landed quick with fire trucks lining the runway. Must have been that plastic part breaking. lol
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rerod
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05/17/13 08:35am |
Towing
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RE: Most reliable connector. semi 7 pin or RV blade ?
Hey thanks for the info guys.. Discussion is always good and food for thought. But I doubt I will buy another Hopkins. I guess if my hopkins lasts I might.. Oh, did I just admit I was going to use my plastic Hopkins connectors?
I worked out a temporary install without ruining my bumper. anyway
I guess I'm just oldschool even though I haven't retired..
I don't like exterior parts made from plastic. Especially critical parts.
Then again. The industry will flood the market with a new connector which "we all must have" and most of the 7 blade connectors will end up in the land fill like the 5 and 6 pins.
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rerod
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05/16/13 05:22pm |
Towing
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RE: Most reliable connector. semi 7 pin or RV blade ?
I don't quite understand the dislike of the standard connector. I have been towing trailers for quite a few years and have never had a single problem come up due to the connector between the trailer and the truck. I think the majority of the members on this forum would probably say the same. I think you are making a mountain out of a molehill. :W
Barney
Yes I over analyze everything.
I did also say the 7 blade design works fine, but I just cant bring myself to drilling a 2" hole in my bumper. It would stand out like a sore thumb compared to the ball cut out area on heavy duty bumpers like downtheroad has above. A smaller SAE J560 connector could just hang like my flat 4 pin and tuck it away with a zip tie underneath when not in use.
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rerod
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05/11/13 04:13pm |
Towing
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RE: Most reliable connector. semi 7 pin or RV blade ?
I Had both.
So my advice is whatever you do, make sure it is universal so anybody can plug electrical cord in case somebody has to tow your rig for some reason.
After that I made up adapters that would fit just about anything, in case I ever needed a tow again or could tow other trailers if need be.
Thanks for pointing out your real life situation path1.
I wouldn't want to have to experience that myself.
So I'm guessing all the cheesy (sorry) 7 blade connectors are the universal standard any towing company would have?
I think I will order the ISO 3731 commercial style for its smaller bumper hole dia and cast aluminum construction. I also like the one pin which is a reversed socket for the fact not anyone could hook on with lights. Then make a adapter or two..
Now looking.. Do they sell the male end? Or is ISO 3731 only available pre-made male to male?
Thanks again.
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rerod
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05/11/13 06:35am |
Towing
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Most reliable connector. semi 7 pin or RV blade ?
Iv been researching connectors because I'm not satisfied with my plastic hopkins connector. I'm sure the standard 7 blade design works fine, while having it's limitations as any. But I'm not a fan of how big and disposable all of the ones I found were. And the wire clamp seal was weak compared to a cast aluminum connector. I don't have room to mount the hopkins on my bumper and have hole saw for the bumper but I'm reluctant.
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/re-rod/th_1938AFD1-7E7B-4212-96B9-38412256A927-1952-000004306B3BDAD6_zps334c8641.jpg
Why does the recreational side use the plastic 7 blade, while the commercial side uses cast 7 pin? SAE J560 and ISO 3731
Which is the most reliable, in your opinion?
Thanks
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rerod
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05/10/13 07:46pm |
Towing
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RE: Which Weight Distributing Hitch with most ground clearance??
If you don't want the WD hitch to be the lowest point you can't run a WD hitch. Even the equal-i-zer brand will hang down some at the shank.
Not necessarily true...
At the rear ends of the bars, those will probably still be the lowest point, save for the tongue jack foot on most trailers.
My featherlite surv frame has 6" tall tongue rails, and the tongue jack is a few inches below that. The equalizer IS higher than the Jack.. So it looks like the equalizer and the andersen take up the least space?
Only thing I don't like about the andersen is the force transmitted to the coupler latch pawl. 1300 lbs tongue weight.
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rerod
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05/08/13 11:14am |
Towing
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RE: Which Weight Distributing Hitch with most ground clearance??
Spring bars will nearly ALWAYS be the lowest pint since they MUST be lower than the trailer frame for the principal to work.
No... really?
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rerod
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05/07/13 05:35am |
Towing
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Which Weight Distributing Hitch with most ground clearance??
I'm looking at pictures and looks like the equalizer may have the most ground clearance out of the others I know about. I have a 4" lift on the trailer and my Van is also raised. I don't need sway control as much as squat control.
I don't want the Weight Distributing Hitch to be the lowest point.
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rerod
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05/06/13 01:45pm |
Towing
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RE: What did the featherlite SURV sell for?
Thanks and understood.
But did you cut a hole through the aluminum triangle top battery plate behind the hitch to except the Link Plates? 3:20 on the you-tube video.
Or did you drill and bolt the link plates on the tongue instead of clamping?
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rerod
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04/24/13 04:47pm |
Toy Haulers
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RE: What did the featherlite SURV sell for?
I strongly feel like a weight distribution hitch with sway control is a must. I've had 2 Equalizer brand hitches during the last 10 years and they worked great! Study them - they build 2 point and 4 point friction anti-sway hitches..... Also, the Featherlite has very limited space on the A-frame to work with and was my best bet. It performs beautifully.
Adjustments can be easily made as your load in the rear changes.
If I recall, I bought mine from either Amazon or PPL Motorhomes with free shipping and no tax. I installed it myself... Good luck! Good evening too!
Do you happen to have a picture of your Equal-i-zer on your SURV? Which model did you decide on? The model on the video clamp on to a steel trailer frame. ?
Iv never had sway issues.. just all that weight and squat. I guess featherlite was more worried about ramp door loading safety than the massive amount of weight on the tongue. Maybe that's why my front door leaks and I see tell tail signs of frame flex on the trailer skin up front.
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rerod
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04/24/13 07:16am |
Toy Haulers
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RE: What did the featherlite SURV sell for?
Iv read a bit, or I should say, have looked at the prices for equalizer hitch's.
Are they really all they say they are? worth the money?
I was going to invest in another leaf or airbags instead.
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rerod
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04/23/13 09:30pm |
Toy Haulers
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RE: What did the featherlite SURV sell for?
Well, the surv survived the winter and I just bought a E350 with a cummins manual to replace the gmc 6.2
The main thing that bothers me about this SURV is the heavy tongue weight. Camperking's numbers confirm why featherlite added the third axle. They also moved the axles forward because I found a picture of a 07 24' and the dual axles were clearly further forward.
My 05 doesn't have a generator up front, but there's not much room behind the axles to secure one, so Im guessing my tongue weight must be around the 1250 lbs Camperking said.
1250 lbs way to heavy.. isn't it? This new to me 95 E350 will squat bad with that I fear..
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rerod
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04/23/13 05:04pm |
Toy Haulers
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RE: Orlando to Biloxi.. The back roads tasty way please..
The what seems to be a 30-mile long bridge on I10 going west sure gets exciting when it blowing rain sideways and no where to pull off.... truck-um easy through there.
We have pulled out on Pensscola beach a few times along the beach but it sure gets pitch black along this route. No lights anywhere. You have no idea what is creeping up you unannounced.
Roy Ken
I bet it does.. I remember the bridge and thought it could get hairy.
My trip was cut off short because my wife couldn't get our sump pump the run and the basement flooded. I made it back in two days to find she needed medical attention as well..
From what I saw of Florida, I think that's the last time I go unless the winters get to cold for me here. I'd much rather visit Colorado since Im a flat lander already.
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rerod
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04/23/13 09:21am |
Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
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RE: Orlando to Biloxi.. The back roads tasty way please..
The what seems to be a 30-mile long bridge on I10 going west sure gets exciting when it blowing rain sideways and no where to pull off.... truck-um easy through there.
We have pulled out on Pensscola beach a few times along the beach but it sure gets pitch black along this route. No lights anywhere. You have no idea what is creeping up you unannounced.
Roy Ken
I bet it does.. I remember the bridge and thought it could get hairy.
My trip was cut off short because my wife couldn't get our sump pump the run and the basement flooded. I made it back in two days to find she needed medical attention as well..
From what I saw of Florida, I think that's the last time I go unless the winters get to cold for me here. I'd much rather visit Colorado since Im a flat lander already.
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rerod
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04/23/13 09:20am |
Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
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RE: Replacement door seal source
Thanks..
I should have known the words "premium" and "RV" never go together..
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rerod
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04/15/13 09:01am |
Travel Trailers
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Replacement door seal source
This topic has been moved to another forum.
You can read it here: 26872495
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rerod
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04/13/13 06:50pm |
Forum Technical Support
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Replacement door seal source
My door seals are leaking. The water which enters, exits from the threshold, but I would like the prevent the water from entering in the first place..
Where can I buy closed cell or hollow rubber stick on door seals to replace the oem on my featherlite? The premium stuff..
Thanks
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/re-rod/featherlite/th_C8665757-915B-40BF-9864-169ADA6CA250-1006-00000090B559A615_zpsa7af6f9a.jpg
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rerod
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04/13/13 06:50pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Featherlite propane door water leak etc.
My propane compartment is open on the bottom to keep from trapping fumes if there's a leak.
Try checking rubber weather stripping in the home improvement stores. The come in a lot of shapes and thickness. Attach with contact cement but don't stretch it when installing. If you need to pull the door inward, maybe install a couple of more latches.
My propane compartment also has a opening at the bottom front. I think the propane door has been leaking, but last year I had the tongue lower and I think that directed the entering water forward and out the bottom vent hole. With the tongue higher or level, the water ran back and onto the floor.
My propane door has the lip removed on the top so it was designed to be mounted in reverse, but featherlite installed it upside down to keep it closed if it opened while traveling. weather strip wont fill that crack you see in the picture. It would deform the door outward more.
I think I will remove the door and install it the correct way regardless of wind direction since the latch is solid and I never open it.
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/re-rod/featherlite/th_35C0907B-75FF-4A24-9178-A4A9EC5B0D4F-889-000000557F0502AC_zps001d8bd9.jpg
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rerod
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04/13/13 06:41am |
General RVing Issues
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Featherlite propane door water leak etc.
I've known that occasionally, water would enter the front V nose area on my feather-lite entry door only when parked. So I put some blue tape over the top seam and lived with it, because the door seals looked fine. But after this winter I looked and found allot of water still entering with the tape on. After a hose test, I found the entry door still leaked but the water exited off the threshold like it should. But more hose searching revealed the propane door had deformed from the sun and was allowing water to enter.
My question is.. Can I build a better door? Or just caulk it shut? I never use it, but I guess its a safety feature.
And are high performance door seals available for my entry door? I don't think new oem seals would make a difference since my second entry door leaks as well, but rejects the water from the threshold.
Any suggestions?
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/re-rod/featherlite/th_1FAD1E8A-D053-48B6-A591-88D8C8A603EB-1006-00000090A54A2CF6_zps4b9c1760.jpg
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/re-rod/featherlite/th_C8665757-915B-40BF-9864-169ADA6CA250-1006-00000090B559A615_zpsa7af6f9a.jpg
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/re-rod/featherlite/th_99E57EBF-0883-457A-B7DE-975F6B5C3645-1006-000000909BC18AF3_zps376800f3.jpg
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rerod
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04/12/13 06:36pm |
General RVing Issues
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