RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'rfryer' found 288 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 15  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Class a vs. small trailer

No one can guess how you’ll adapt to a smaller space but you. But based on your initial comments you’ll likely feel confined and whether the tradeoff is worth it is the big question. I think there are other aspects beyond just the space, though. Pulling a small TT does have some pluses. Better gas mileage, much more flexibility in roads you take, places you can go, access to gas stations and such, and opportunities for camp sites. Plus you can park the TT and use the TV to explore or make a run to the store. And you can easily access public lands where the camp fees are peanuts compared to commercial parks. On the other hand, The TT will not have all the amenities of your MH so that’s a tradeoff to an extent. And if you’ve always traveled in a MH and commonly get sites with HU’s and want HU’s for the TT you’ll sacrifice some of the advantages of the small TT to get in about anywhere, the more pristine spots as a rule don’t have any facilities. I have to admit to being bias; I’ve been pulling a 16’TT for 25 years and have no desire to go to a MH. I wouldn’t be nervous about pulling a small TT, if set up properly and kept away from you TV max ratings I think with a little practice you’ll find it a piece of cake. Mine is. Good luck on your decision.
rfryer 08/16/14 03:55pm Full-time RVing
RE: would you pay $41 to enter a National Park?

Remember the old days in Yellowstone when bears were common along the roads and people created traffic jams stopping and feeding them from their cars? Then the bears lost their fear of people and expected a handout and began to create problems for said people and then they complained about sharing their space with them. So they were immediately trapped and taken out and released in the boonies. So for a long time you could go to Yellowstone and never see one. I haven’t been to Yellowstone in a few years, but I remember on some latter trips the DW saying bears in Yellowstone were just an substantiated rumor. So I talked to a ranger and rousted everyone out in the middle of the night and we went out and found bear. So it’s possible to see bear, but it’s a national park, not a petting zoo, you have to expend some effort, they’re not going to come to you. I was surprised the article said grizzles along the road were a major draw, that’s new to me. May be time for another trip. As far as the survey goes, I wouldn’t reomtely consider paying double so some people could see a bear. And I think if grizzlies started wandering into their campsites or sharing their trail this “survey” might become obsolete very quickly.:D
rfryer 08/03/14 03:22pm General RVing Issues
RE: Medicine while traveling.

A national chain should work fine for you. I’m usually gone for a month at a time and sometimes two and I have to refill. I use Walgreen's and they can access my local records and refill with no problem. Two qualifiers. Don’t use mail, I did that in FL and specifically told them to mail to an address there. They sent it to my home in AZ and it was a major PITA to sort out with the insurance company. Also, Walgreen's tracks your refills and when you’re back home you may get an automated message about refilling your med. I did that and at the end of the message it said my prescription would be ready to pick up the next day at the pharmacy in Jacksonville, FL- the last place I got a refill. I told the local pharmacist to tell their IT guy his system would work better if he identified the pharmacy up front rather than finding out after the fact where the prescription was going. Other than that, though, you should have no problem getting your refills.
rfryer 08/02/14 04:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Florida to Arizona

I’ve been on I-49 and 20 and don’t recall anything rough or slow. Other than the Dallas-FW area at rush hour and I bypassed it, but don’t remember the route I took. Someone local can probably give you some good info on that. 287 I just don’t remember at all, but that will probably be my route next trip.
rfryer 08/02/14 03:33pm Roads and Routes
RE: Need advice for towing downhill....

Back in the 60’s when I was young I made my first non tent camping trip with a borrowed, heavy wooden PU with no brakes and I lost my TV brakes coming down Teton pass. I pointed to a small town visible through the trees and told the DW and two sons that’s Jackson Hole, get out and walk down the mountain there and wait for me. I made a hairy decent about 100 yards at a time to try and cool the brakes and survived the experience. But I learned my first lesson the first time out. Don’t pull anything without brakes and use the transmission to control the descent. Keep your speed down as you start and mainly use the transmission to control it. The speed will increase beyond what you’re comfortable with and then use the brake fairly hard to knock it down maybe 10mph or so below what you want. And repeat as necessary. The object is to minimize the use of the brakes; you do not want to ride them.
rfryer 08/02/14 12:03pm Towing
RE: OKI

But keep in mind if you travel mountains you do not want to be pulling near your max rating, neither you nor the TV will like it. I live in the mountains of central Idaho and sure don't understand what you mean by that. Most everyone here loads firewood past max and had no problems at all. Running my 30ft trailer through the hills with my F-150 is a breeze as is my sons HD 2500 which pulls it no better. The opp will have no problem in the hills of Montana with the F-150 they have. To the opp, why rent when you can own for less than renting. My son bought this 24ft for $650. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v652/jaycocreek/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04-20_12-00-47_915_zpsbaykn1pp.jpg width=640 I have to respect comments from someone who has firsthand experience, jaycocreek. But I know of very few people pulling near their max that relish towing in the mountains, in most cases they wind up with a bigger TV. I sort of equate it to moving a refrigerator around on the first floor or carrying it up to the second floor.:) So that’s what I meant by that. If they’re within their ratings the TV will do it, but maybe it’s an issue of one’s tolerance for slow, high rpm climbs. Personally, there’s little in the flats of interest to me so most of my towing is in the mountains and I have a low tolerance for poor performance. If I pulled a heavy rig I would probably be a diesel or maybe an F150 Eco guy.
rfryer 08/02/14 11:23am Travel Trailers
RE: OKI

A good four season TT built to go off pavement will neither be cheap nor light. And for your limited use you would take the mother of all depreciation hits. I agree with other posters, an older but solid used unit would be the only sensible way to go. As far as hunting goes, a smaller unit works best because you can get it back in within walking distance of your hunting area and avoid long early morning drives on bad roads in the dark. But it’s not an absolute, many people set up near the pavement and drive back in, I just don’t like to do it. I’ve made many winter hunting trips, often in sub-zero weather. Many in a PU, a few in a TT and the rest in a wall tent. And I can say the wall tent worked best and was the warmest. The TT works if you can keep it heated, but if you use the furnace you’ll knock your battery down overnight and have to run a generator to recharge it. If you hunt like I do, gone from before daylight until after dark, when do you get time to recharge? As said too, forget the mythical tow capacity, with a ½ ton you’ll run out of payload before you get near the tow rating. The best way to know what you have is to load the TV up with everything and everyone you’d carry on a trip and weight it on a split scale. Subtract that from the TV GVWR and that’s what you have to work with. But keep in mind if you travel mountains you do not want to be pulling near your max rating, neither you nor the TV will like it.
rfryer 08/02/14 01:27am Travel Trailers
RE: Florida to Arizona

Zgypsies and Laman gave you some good ideas. Even given that, I’ve made that trip a couple of times and have to say it’s the most painfully boring drive I’ve ever made anywhere. Another option would be to go to Mobile then cut NW though Dallas to I-40 and come into Phoenix from the north. Surprisingly, it’s less than 100 miles difference over I-10. The plus to me would be the southern route will be hotter than blazes in August and I get more heat than I ever want.
rfryer 08/02/14 12:38am Roads and Routes
RE: New to the fray...

Late August - early September says over 7000' to me unless one wants to hibernate in the TT. I second the rim country, south of Flag or toward Heber. Lots of national forest cg's in those areas. And only a few hours driving time. If you were willing to spend more time driving you could head up to the the White Mountains, maybe the Big Lake area. Nice cg's and a bit overdeveloped for my taste, but that's me.As an afterthought, I assumed you would dry camp. If you want hookups you'll be far more limited but Canyon Point has them and a couple of the cg's at Big Lake do too.
rfryer 08/01/14 11:48pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: New trailer suggestions

The tow rating is the most meaningless rating for a TV. A 6000# TT will have a tongue weight pushing 900# and payload is going to be your limiting factor. Where you live you’ll be doing at least a fair amount of mountain driving and I think 6000# will be a load for a V6. But I pull a lighter TT so we’ll see what others say that tow with similar rigs.
rfryer 08/01/14 11:34pm Travel Trailers
RE: Depressing Depreciation

My philosophy since I was a teenager in the 50’s has always been to work the window between the max depreciation and the big repair costs. In that era an engine lasted about 100k miles and an AT about 60k miles. So to get the most car for the money I bought a 2 yr old car and sold it when it was about 4 years old. For the cheapest total costs you bought new and kept it for at least 10 years. I’ve since gotten away from the 2-4 year thing; I buy new and keep a vehicle until the wheels fall off or the repair costs get serious. My oldest vehicle is a ’73 Bronco and the newest a 2003 car. My TV is a 2001 and my TT an '89. So unless one keeps vehicles a long time I still think working the window is the way to go.
rfryer 07/30/14 11:26am Tow Vehicles
RE: Need advice on choosing another Tow Vehicle?

I think if you get a lot of replies you’re going to see a pattern of 9-11mpg towing. Wind resistance on the TT is key; length and weight have less affect. Weight becomes more of an issue if you spend much time climbing mountain grades. Half tons pull similar TT’s all the time with no ill effects, unless that era Silverado is noted for weak transmissions. jerem0621’s suggestion of changing out the gears is another cheaper option to replacing the vehicle.
rfryer 07/30/14 12:03am Travel Trailers
RE: No one around to take $$ for campsite?

I probably wouldn't. You wasted your time trying to pay and worse, you apparently don't know what the fee is. You left your contact info and my attitude would be call me and I'll be glad to send you a check. If there were remote pay stations like the forest service cg's and a known rate it would be a different story, I'd just put the cash in the box. YOU received a service and morals indicate to me that you should call, get the cost and pay them! Your thoughts border on theft of service! I never suggested beating the cg out of their fee. The OP said there was no place to put the money, no one there, no one answered the phone, and he didn’t know what the fee was. So I assume it wasn’t posted. So in his shoes my attitude would be you have a slipshod operation and I’m not going to jump through hoops and guess if the fee is $10, $20, $40, etc. and mail you a check. Here’s my phone number, call me and we’ll take care of it. No “moral” implications to it whatsoever.
rfryer 07/29/14 11:36pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: your opinion on appliance age

I have a little 1989 TT and all the appliances still work except the frig which went out about 2 years ago.
rfryer 07/28/14 11:31pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: No one around to take $$ for campsite?

I probably wouldn't. You wasted your time trying to pay and worse, you apparently don't know what the fee is. You left your contact info and my attitude would be call me and I'll be glad to send you a check. If there were remote pay stations like the forest service cg's and a known rate it would be a different story, I'd just put the cash in the box.
rfryer 07/28/14 11:19pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: 2008 GMC Yukon MPG?

I have to agree with Campfire Tom. You’re likely looking at the 9-11mpg area and I think you’ll be happier towing a lighter TT. But that won’t do a lot for your mileage, air resistance is the culprit. Or another option is to spring for a bigger TV. Where you live I think you’ll be doing a good amount of mountain driving and pulling anywhere near your max may not be a lot of fun. Meaning slow, high rpm climbs up every grade. That is probably acceptable if you’re mostly in the flats and grades aren’t common, but it can get pretty tedious if you do a lot of climbing.
rfryer 07/25/14 06:58pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Light weight TTs: how do they hold up when boondocking?

I’m a little unsure what you mean by boondocking. For the most part, that implies out in the boonies on primitive, rough roads. And I can think of very few places where one could get a 30’ TT on that sort of road. The exception would be roads to popular areas, like lakes and such that are wide, graded and graveled. But then they’re not so rough a lightweight should be a problem. Or said another way, I think you’re unlikely to get that big a rig on a road that would be too hard on a lightweight. That said, for fulltiming you want something on the large side and well made to stand up to the full time use. So if I were looking I’d lean toward the heavier constructed unit and weight would be secondary. And then something bigger than a ½ ton TV might be a better choice. Good luck.
rfryer 07/25/14 12:22pm Travel Trailers
RE: how do you know when to trade

If it’s in that good a shape and you like it it’s almost a no brainer to keep it. You’ve already taken the depreciation hit and you’re now just spreading the loss out over more time. After 10 years condition has more impact than age anyway. You might eventually reach the point where repairs get high enough you question the economics of keeping it. But you’ll have to throw a lot of money at repairs to equal the depreciation hit you’ll take on a new one. I have a 16’ 1989 TT that was bought new and it’s in excellent condition so the current value – what I’ve been offered – not book value, exceeds a quarter of what I paid for it new. So you can see my depreciation cost spread out over 25 years has been peanuts. The frig went out a couple of years ago and cost almost $900 to replace and I didn’t flinch. That’s a fraction of the hit I’d take in depreciation if I replaced the TT because of it. Besides, the layout and construction is better than anything new we’ve seen for years. You could trade it if you’re just ready to spring for a new one, but from a fiscal standpoint it makes little sense to me.
rfryer 07/23/14 08:52pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Booning in National Forest or BLMs

Boondocking is out in the boonies, away from people and civilization, so there are no campsites. It’s also dry camping, but you can also dry camp in a campground if you pass on any hu’s. I do it all the time. Most BLM land I’m aware of is lower elevations and I spend almost all of my time in mountain national forests. So I’ll let those who use BLM land speak to it. In the nf’s, you can just drive back in on a forest road and set up about anywhere that looks good to you. There may be some restrictions, but they’re typically signed as you go in. Or you can ask at a local ranger station to play it safe. Actually, your rig is a bit big for that sort of camping, forest roads are usually rough, unimproved, narrow and heavily treed. But you could stay out close to the pavement as long as you have room to maneuver. If you want to go back one of those roads, unhitch and scout it out with the TV first. I’ve seen some people in very awkward positions as the road deteriorated and they couldn’t maneuver or turn around. The few times I’ve used BLM land I treat it the same as nf land. Park where I want while watching for any signs or restrictions. I’ve been doing it for about 50 years with no issues at all.
rfryer 07/22/14 01:01am Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Dry camping with a trailer

That’s an extreme case of more unsaid than said.:) Dry camping without a generator is more akin to tent camping than anything. I dry camp almost exclusively, don’t use a generator, don’t use commercial parks, and have a small TT so I have limited tank capacities. Also I have one 12v battery. Still, I can go almost a week before I have to recharge/restock. If boondocking I carry extra water in 5 gallon cans. In a campground I refill a can at the water source and refill my tank. No tv, microwave, or other electronics and I use only one light unless I temporarily need more. The frig runs on propane. I carry a battery charger and sometimes I can recharge my battery somewhere if I’m in a national park, otherwise I move to a site with electric hu’s for a couple of days. Or I can take the battery out and have it recharged, but I don’t use my TV as a battery charger. No washing the hair or long, hot showers, navy showers or sponge baths are the rule. Also no furnace or ac. But I camp in as high an elevation as I can get so ac is never needed and I can take the cold much better than the heat. In my case battery power is the first to go followed by the water. Propane lasts a long time and so do the gray and black tanks. It’s somewhat primitive, but that’s how I like to camp and it gives you the flexibility to get away from the mob scene and camp in some great places. Go ahead and do it, it’s very likely you’ll enjoy the experience and you’ll learn quickly what your limitations are. And if you push the envelope too hard you can just move to a site with hu’s and regroup. Good luck.
rfryer 07/18/14 02:24pm Tech Issues
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 15  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2014 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS