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 > Your search for posts made by 'rgatijnet1' found 1232 matches.

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RE: Where is reservoir to add fluid for the hydraulic jacks

ON my Monaco, if the bong is not going off when the jacks are retracted, you probably do not need to add fluid. The way it is added is to lower ONE jack 5" and if the bong is going off, they might be a little low on fluid. Then you slowly add fluid until the bong stops. This insures that when any of the jacks are still down more than 5", the bong will be sounding.
rgatijnet1 06/29/16 03:09pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Age restrictions

The age, price, or the condition of an RV has nothing to do with the personalities of the people that come with them.
rgatijnet1 06/29/16 09:40am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Is the new Ford 6 speed really that BIG a deal?

Horsepower and torque at the rear wheels is really what matters. As long as the transmission is matched to the right rear end gear ratio for the weight of the RV, it should be just fine and the two overdrives, and the fact that the transmission locks up at a lower RPM, should give you better mileage on the flat land.
rgatijnet1 06/29/16 08:38am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Age restrictions

In many many years of RVing and hundreds of RV parks, I have never had a problem with the way any RV looks. I have found out that if there are any problems, it is always caused by the people IN the RV, and not the RV itself. A nice new RV says nothing about the people inside.
rgatijnet1 06/28/16 02:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: I was pleasantly surprised

One thing that always comes with low gas prices are the greedy politicians that see an opportunity to increase taxes. I just read where New Jersey is going to approve a 23 cent a gallon INCREASE in their fuel tax. Expect more States to do the same if the fuel prices stay low. Of course lower fuel prices usually mean that people travel more and buy more fuel, which puts more tax money in the coffers. Apparently that is NEVER enough for some politicians.
rgatijnet1 06/28/16 12:08pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: engine on reduced power

This happens to my 8.1 about ONCE a year, but not on any particular schedule. Since my OBDII shows no problems I just chalk it up as an ECM fluke. What I have found out that works to reset mine is to go out and throw the chassis battery disconnect switch for a few seconds. Turn it back on and everything was always fine after that. I wouldn't worry too much about it. After 90,000+ miles, my engine is still running fine and I can put up with an occasional blip.
rgatijnet1 06/28/16 12:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Using hydraulic bottle jacks for leveling

Harbor Freight will probably have the least expensive bottle jacks. Your hydraulic jacks may be a simple fix. If you throw the switch and you hear nothing, it is probably electrical, and could be as simple as a blown fuse. If you hear the pump running and nothing happens, then it may be a switching valve and a little more complicated, but still not that difficult to trace and fix.
rgatijnet1 06/27/16 12:26pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Shore power and no DC lights - HELP

Glad it is fixed. Enjoy the rest of your trip. :B
rgatijnet1 06/27/16 12:23pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Shore power and no DC lights - HELP

Some coaches have a switch near the door sometimes called a salesman's switch that turns off all 12 volt DC power. There is a relay that this switch controls and that relay may be bad, or the switch just needs to be thrown. On my Monaco it is a momentary switch and I have to hold it for a few seconds.
rgatijnet1 06/27/16 11:29am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Welding Precautions

Disconnect the coach from shore power. Keep the ground connection for the welder as CLOSE as possible to the area to be welded. Make sure that there are no wiring harnesses, fuel lines, propane lines, air lines, near the area to be welded. Some people may recommend disconnecting the batteries, or ECM/TCM but I never found that necessary on any of my coaches.
rgatijnet1 06/27/16 06:19am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Winegard to Jack King

My Jack was an exact replacement with the existing amplifier on my older Winegard providing the power to the Jack. It has worked great for several years now.
rgatijnet1 06/26/16 12:51pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: B-QUIET HLINER

Whatever insulation product you use, just make sure that it's temperature rating exceeds the temperatures you expect it to encounter in the engine compartment. A fire there is not a good idea.
rgatijnet1 06/26/16 09:38am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Need Some Guidance - Replace/Upgrade Generator

Not sure what type of generator you have but some of those old Onan RV generators are built stronger, operate at a lower RPM and, in a lot of ways, are just better than the newer units. If it ain't broken, don't fix it.
rgatijnet1 06/26/16 09:36am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Storag

If you are concerned, flush the tanks out with a Clorox solution BEFORE your next trip. Don't let the Clorox solution sit in your tanks over an extended period of time. The Clorox may attack seals and gaskets if left to sit for too long.
rgatijnet1 06/26/16 08:17am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Searching for 19.5" Wheel Cover

Try here: Wheel covers
rgatijnet1 06/24/16 03:40pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Help needed ASAP for my Damon Challanger

I believe the noise you are hearing is the Auto Park Brake engaging or disengaging from the brake drum on the end of your transmission. There is a way to manually disconnect the Auto Park Brake but once that is done, your coach will roll on a slopped surface unless you use wheel chocks. This can create a dangerous situation.
rgatijnet1 06/24/16 05:40am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Help needed ASAP for my Damon Challanger

Here is a website that may help give you some information: Auto Park Brake
rgatijnet1 06/24/16 04:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dash air vs generator

In warm weather, we ALWAYS start the generator and run the rooftop AC to cool the ENTIRE coach before we park for the day. It makes no sense to be uncomfortable after we have parked for the night waiting for the coach to cool off.
rgatijnet1 06/23/16 12:38pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 110 hookup only ???

On a single 120 volt outlet I have been able to run one AC as well as the TV and lights. I switch off the AC when using the microwave. The WH is on propane as is the refrigerator. It just requires energy management and watching the meter to see how many amps you are drawing. X-2, I've done this before Brian, but you don't want to do this in extreme heat! If you do this and do not have an PI EMS that shuts down current at 104v, I suggest you get a Kill-A-Watt and plug it in. Of course you will want to check occasionally. If current drops to 104V, turn off the A/C. If you let the A/C run at 104 or below, you will start incurring heat damage and shorten the life. I do have the PI EMS but I believes it shuts down the power when it drops to 108 volts. If a 120 volt outlet is wired properly, you should be able to draw the maximum amount of amps without any significant voltage drop, just like any outlet in your home. If you have to run a long extension cord to the 120 volt outlet, then you may have a voltage drop. Just using your large 50 amp RV cord, and the adapters, hooked up to a properly wired 120 volt outlet, should be fine without a significant voltage drop altho it is not a bad idea to monitor it to insure that it was wired with the correct gauge wire.
rgatijnet1 06/22/16 02:34pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 110 hookup only ???

Have never done this before. I'm hooking up were there's only 110 service available. What do I do?? Will that keep the batteries charged, assuming I only run the TV etc. No Air Conditioners, I know. Would I plug into the 110 and then turn the invertor on and run off that or ?? Thanks Even though the 50 & 30 amp RV plugs look like 220V plugs, they are actually 110V. If you have a 30 Amp cord/RV you can buy a 30A to 15A adapter just about anywhere. They're less than $10 and Wally World almost always has them in stock in the stores. 15A to 30A adapter If you have a 50A RV/cord, you can buy one of these which I have done. 50A cord adapter. It does a great job for keeping the batteries charged, running the frig, providing 110V to RV outlets, and running one A/C unit. (I have 20A circuits in my garage.) They're a little pricey, but very few people make them and even fewer stock them. Actually I have built almost one of every type of adapter over the last couple of years just to make sure I have whatever I will need. Doug Actually a 50 amp RV plug is bringing in 220 volts to the main breaker in your RV. On some RV's, 220 volts is used on the drier. At your main panel in your RV, the 220 power is split in to the 120 volt circuits for the use in your coach.
rgatijnet1 06/22/16 12:58pm Class A Motorhomes
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