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 > Your search for posts made by 'rgatijnet1' found 1543 matches.

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RE: Dash Heater Core Leak

If you don't travel when the heater is needed just bypass the core by connecting the two hoses together with a coupling. If you do need the heater, the Stop Leak additive MAY work long enough for you to make permanent repairs. Perhaps YOU can remove the core and take it to a radiator shop to repair. This is pretty standard work for a shop and shouldn't cost too much, even if you have to get a new core. The high cost is the labor hours to remove and re-installing the heater core.
rgatijnet1 11/22/14 01:19pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A or C ?

Better visibility(you sit higher and have a larger windshield) in the Class A from a sightseeing and safety standpoint. For the same length, the Class A will have more usable sq ft of floor space. You are half right. The Class C wins the safety component hands down. You won't find air bags in a Class A and there is next to nothing between you and a front end impact (except that oversized windshield). Try escaping an A (vs a C), in an accident or fire, three doors vs one. There are lots of good things about Class A's but safety is simply not one of them. :C I would guess that if I had a head-on with an automobile in my Class A I would be looking down at the wreckage. In a Class C, you may have air bags but you are also at the same level as the automobiles.
rgatijnet1 11/21/14 02:28pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Using airbags for rear spring augmentation

The air bags can be used as a supplement to your regular springs. Most aftermarket air bags have a 5000 pound capacity so they do have some limitations. The advantage is that they are adjustable. With heavy crosswinds on a smooth road, you can pump them up to 80+ pounds and they will stiffen the ride and minimize sway. On rough roads you can drop the pressure back down for a smoother ride.
rgatijnet1 11/21/14 12:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A or C ?

Better visibility(you sit higher and have a larger windshield) in the Class A from a sightseeing and safety standpoint. For the same length, the Class A will have more usable sq ft of floor space.
rgatijnet1 11/21/14 10:38am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Braking System for Tow Vehicle

We have a 1999 Fleetwood class A motor home and once in awhile we tow our Toyota Tacoma truck. We do not have a supplement braking system for the tow vehicle is this a must? I looked into a few of them and there quite expensive with installation. To answer your question, NO, you do not legally have to have supplemental braking on a VEHICLE in tow. A VEHICLE in tow is NOT a trailer. If you check any state, you will see various requirements for brakes that are required on trailers. Don't take my word for it. All you need to do is send an email to the state DOT or highway patrol, and you will get the same replies that I did. I had previously posted some of the replies that I received and the names of the officials that responded. A vehicle in tow does not require supplemental braking. Now with that said, I do use the Blue Ox Patriot braking system on my toad and I can tell that I can stop quicker in an emergency. I also know that if my Blue Ox fails, I can still tow my toad LEGALLY to get the system repaired or replaced. I do not have to leave my toad behind. Now that you have the facts, you can decide what is best for you.
rgatijnet1 11/21/14 10:33am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 10 year wax

That sounds as bogus as using interior floor wax on your exterior RV paint.
rgatijnet1 11/20/14 05:46pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: cold weather travel

Like most people responding to this thread, we aren't saying tire pressure needs to be neglected, but I have never worried about going from 60F to -9F while traveling. Built into the tires are a safe operating range. That is why I posted the link from the trucking site. Tire pressure They did the tests and say that you should worry about it. Unless you know that you are starting off well above the correct tire pressure for your load, as the temps drop, so does your tire pressure. Once you get below the correct tire pressure, you have started to overload the tire. An under-inflated tire is the worst thing you can do to any tire. There IS NOT a safety margin for under-inflation. There is a safety margin for the higher pressure caused by heat generated by the rolling tire. That is why the tire pressure stamped on the side of the tire is the MINIMUM tire pressure for a given load. Oh, last year we traveled from Florida to visit Glacier NP, staying in Cut Bank, MT in October. I did not wait for an oil change to check my tire pressures.
rgatijnet1 11/20/14 02:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A Dealer?

An internet search has a few recent comments about them, including one that thinks it all may be a scam. They appear to be just an ESCROW agent that acts as the money holder between the buyer and seller. If you contact the seller yourself, I see no need for an escrow agent, and to pay their fees on top of the sales price.
rgatijnet1 11/20/14 12:24pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: cold weather travel

I guess you forgot what the topic was about....Driving from Florida to Missouri. When the topic was started, the temperature difference was in excess of 60 degrees at those locations. In that case the pressure drop would have been close to 16 pounds. What you are forgetting is that friction of the tire will increase the pressure as the loaded rig rolls down the road. So what you start with will not be what you have 50 miles down the road. Some people are just anal about everything. There is a fair balance to life. Try to maintain that. Common sense says to check tire pressure frequently. Check oil levels frequently. Be sure your alternator is charging your batteries, etc. etc. etc. I have been driving all types of vehicles for 52 years with 1,000,000's of miles during those 52 years. I have had ONE blowout on an OEM tire after hitting a pot hole at 70 mph. Just ONE! A couple of flats from nails, etc. but just ONE blowout caused by a pot hole. I do purchase quality tires. I doubt if too many people would drive straight through from Florida to Missouri. That is why in the very FIRST reply to the OP I told him to check his air in his tires after his OVERNIGHT stops. With the rapidly dropping temps he would experiencing when this topic started, he would be adding air at the start of each day. I did not say to stop 50 miles down the road, or anything else to that affect, that you infer. I regularly make the drive each Winter from HOT Florida to below freezing temperatures as we go north. I passed my experience with the rapidly dropping temperatures on to the OP. The OP says that he is starting off with the CORRECT PSI. He did not say he added extra pressure to account for the temperature drop. In that case, when he got up the next morning, after his first stop, the temperatures would be considerably cooler and his tires would be well below the CORRECT pressure.
rgatijnet1 11/20/14 10:15am Class A Motorhomes
RE: slide topper banging in high wind

They make devices that attach to your coach to prevent the awning from unrolling. You can tighten the tension on the spring which should also help. Awning clamp
rgatijnet1 11/20/14 06:14am Class A Motorhomes
RE: do gassers offer anything like the DP engine brake

A lot depends on wheel/brake size. I learned to drive in British Columbia and am quite comfortable with mountain driving. Years ago we drove our 30' 1997 Triple E Commander, on a Ford 460 chassis down the Espinazo del Diablo (Devil's Backbone) in Mexico, from Durango to Mazatlan. From 6,000 feet up to 9,000 ft, down to 6000 then back to 9000 then to sea level. At one of the very few places to pull off I stopped for a "rest" break. Bad mistake. With no air moving past the wheels the drums on the 16" rear wheels heated the brake fluid to the point that there was vapour instead of fluid in the brake system. I pulled out behind a bus and braked for the corner and the pedal went to the floor :E Fortunately I was still going slow enough that I could pull it into 1st gear. A lot of pumping on the brake pedal gave me a little (just enough) braking. After following the bus downhill and pumping like mad when needed I regained reasonable braking in about 20 minutes. We now drive a small (32') diesel pusher with 22.5" wheels, airbrakes and a great Allison 6 speed an excellent cruise control and exhaust brake. Since you didn't say when you had last had your brake fluid flushed, it seems like you rode the brake pedal too much. Just 5% moisture in your brake fluid system will lower the boiling point of your brake fluid to under 300 degrees. If your brake fluid had been flushed every two years, as recommended but very seldom done by RV owners, then you never would have boiled the fluid as you rode the brakes down the hill. The fact that you could pump the brake pedal to get a little brake pressure indicates that you had moisture/steam in the brake lines. Proper brake maintenance and not riding the brakes on a descent is very important for any RV that travels in the mountains. I am sure that the brakes and wheel size on each RV is designed by engineers to handle the gross vehicle weight of your coach, if maintained and used properly.
rgatijnet1 11/20/14 05:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Help / Stranded / RV will not start /Road Service is no help

I know nothing about your vehicle but I do know that some vehicles use the same part number/identical solenoid for many different functions. The solenoid is just a switch and how it is wired determines what it controls. In any case, if you have a couple of the SAME IDENTICAL solenoids on your coach you may try switching their positions to see if your symptoms change. If each of your solenoids have different part numbers, then forget this advice.
rgatijnet1 11/19/14 02:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1995 F53 Fan Clutch - defective Ford parts?

Here is a good read on fan clutches. It also explains the difference between standard and severe duty clutches. Since it senses the temperature of air through your radiator, I guess that the distance the clutch is from the radiator and the air flow through and around the radiator is important in when the fan clutch engages. Fan clutch operation and troubleshooting
rgatijnet1 11/19/14 01:21pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: do gassers offer anything like the DP engine brake

redguard just sent me this as a PM in reference to my post where I said that gasser RV's have no problems in the mountains with either the climb or the descent. "you obviously have not driven a larger A gasser loaded in the rockies etc as this statement is pure bunk simply put UNTRUE " I'll let those of you that have driven their gassers in the mountains respond. I have never had a problem with my Monaco gas coach in the Rockies, but I also never had a problem with the diesel coaches I've owned in the mountains. Apparently he wanted to call me liar in private. Oh well! :B As the above posts already seem to indicate, gas RV's do fine in the mountains.
rgatijnet1 11/19/14 11:52am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Condensation Problem on front window.

Unless your interior humidity is zero, there is still moisture in the air that will appear on the cold interior surfaces. This is the same reason why condensation forms on the outside of a glass of ice water. When in your automobile and the windshield starts to fog up, what do you do? Most people turn on the defroster which blows warm air directly on the windshield, which is what you can do in your RV when you are driving. When parked, you can do the same thing with a fan or with an electric heater aimed towards the windshield area. Unfortunately when you draw your privacy curtain, you prevent the circulation of air on the glass. In this case the only alternative is to lower the humidity in your RV to an acceptable level. This can be done with electric resistance heaters or a dehumidifier. A dehumidifier is basically a small AC unit and removes water from the air the same as any other AC unit. Air passing over the cold coils release moisture that is collected in a tank. The dehumidifier also has the advantage of exhausting warm air which means it acts somewhat like a heater in Winter months.
rgatijnet1 11/19/14 11:04am Class A Motorhomes
RE: do gassers offer anything like the DP engine brake

Allison calls it their grade brake and is available on the GM gas powered RV's built after 2005 with the Allison transmissions. Ford transmissions also have a grade brake feature called the tow/haul mode that downshifts on descents to provide braking. Gasser RV's have no problem in the mountains with either the climb or the descent.
rgatijnet1 11/19/14 10:35am Class A Motorhomes
RE: cold weather travel

Reading some of the posts it is becoming very clear why some people have trouble with their tires. Of course, according to them, it is always the manufacturer's fault. Maintaining proper air pressure at all times seems so basic and so important that it is preached by every tire manufacturer. The problem with changing pressures is accelerated by our desire to maintain the ideal pressure for the weight being carried. If we follow that thinking then adjusting the pressure every time we stop or the temperature goes up or down a few degrees would be the norm. Running tires underinflated is asking for trouble in most cases. Those of us who run higher pressures than the supposed ideal based on weight will rarely see pressures drop enough due to temperature decreases to become a factor. If we as RV owners are anal enough about maintaining ideal pressures we would be stopping frequently to check the pressures and adjusting for low pressure as well as high pressure. I see drivers adding air, but have never seen anyone removing air because the pressure increased due to higher temps. I guess you forgot what the topic was about....Driving from Florida to Missouri. When the topic was started, the temperature difference was in excess of 60 degrees at those locations. In that case the pressure drop would have been close to 16 pounds. If you travel during the Winter to locations where the temperature has big swings, like in this topic and in the Western mountains, then you SHOULD raise or lower your pressure accordingly. Keeping with the topic, if someone during that same period of time traveled from Missouri south to Florida, and their tires were properly inflated in Missouri, then they would be 16 pounds over-inflated when they reached Florida. It seems obvious what you would do, which is drive around with grossly over-inflated tires because you have NEVER seen anyone remove air from their tires. Some of us that do travel in the Winter and visit areas where we experience big temperature swings, do check our tire pressure each morning and adjust accordingly, either up or down. If you have never seen it being done it is because you don't travel to those areas or travel during very cold Winter temperatures.
rgatijnet1 11/19/14 09:21am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Air in water lines

Did you check to see if your fill valve was in the pump position rather than shore water position? Ok, I was trying to think that one through and tried it both ways with no change. What difference does it make to switch between city water and tank position? Dave If the fill valve is left in the shore water position, without shore water connected, my Monaco coach pump will run continuously.
rgatijnet1 11/19/14 04:49am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Air in water lines

Did you check to see if your fill valve was in the pump position rather than shore water position?
rgatijnet1 11/18/14 01:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: cold weather travel

Reading some of the posts it is becoming very clear why some people have trouble with their tires. Of course, according to them, it is always the manufacturer's fault. Maintaining proper air pressure at all times seems so basic and so important that it is preached by every tire manufacturer.
rgatijnet1 11/18/14 12:56pm Class A Motorhomes
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