Have same problem with our 05 Chrysler 300 Touring. Called dealership and was informed that replacement parts to correct the problem are not available yet and mentioned that they may be available sometime in June.
Also stated the malfunction generally occurs in hot humid parts of the country, yeah, real comforting to hear that:E
They did part of the recall when I took mine in a few months ago. The P81 recall was not done because they did not have the parts. Now the original recall must be done again and they still do not have the parts.
No problem driving the vehicle, just do not have a wreck that sets off the air bags. I guess if people could avoid all wrecks they wouldn't even need air bags. Like you, I live in a hot climate with the addition of the high humidity on the Florida coast. Comforting. :B
When I check my tires before getting on the road, I am looking for 95 psi, no matter what the outside temperature is. 95 psi is 5 psi over what the manufacturer's chart recommends as the minimum based on what my coach weight dictates.
If it is less, I add air until my tire gauge reads 95 psi and do not concern myself with the outside temperature.
In my case, since I checked my tires when cold, before I got on the road, (This may not be a convenient thing to do based upon your location or time of day.) if I noticed a tire that was LOW at the first rest stop, I would know I have a problem with that tire. (I'm not sure how you would "know" you have a problem. I think you would ASSUME you have a problem. But I certainly would not ASSUME I had a problem. Maybe some kid just let some air out.)I may put air in it to get to a service center, but I certainly would not ASSUME that the tire was now safe and would remain safe/perfect the next day.(Sounds to me like you are making other assumptions. Not me. I'll inspect the tire and keep an eye on the tire pressure monitor and I'll figure out using facts whether or not I have a problem.) If it was a dual, I would also be concerned about the other dual that had to take up the additional weight to compensate for the tire that was low.
Is this the same monitor that did not warn you the tire was losing air until you noticed it at the rest stop? :B
What happens when you get to the rest stop and notice your tires look a little low? Did someone fool with your tire? What do you do? In your case, I guess you'll sit there and wait until morning to fill them. After all, you don't want to "out think" any tire engineers, do you? In my case, I'll fill it to the proper heat adjusted pressure and move on, safe in the knowledge that the pressures will be perfect and will remain perfect even the next day.
You may fill your tires in accordance with good engineering theory. I fill mine in accordance with good engineering reality.
In my case, since I checked my tires when cold, before I got on the road, if I noticed a tire that was LOW at the first rest stop, I would know I have a problem with that tire. I may put air in it to get to a service center, but I certainly would not ASSUME that the tire was now safe and would remain safe/perfect the next day. If it was a dual, I would also be concerned about the other dual that had to take up the additional weight to compensate for the tire that was low.
This may affect some of you with tow vehicles, or toads, that were on the OLD air bag recall list.
I just got an email from the NHTSA about my Chrysler Hemi. You can register on their website and receive notifications about your specific vehicle. It seems that when they changed the air bag on my car a few months ago, that recall is now covered by a NEW recall that supersedes the old recall. It further says that if my air bag was replaced with the old recall, it now must be replaced AGAIN under the terms of the NEW recall. Here is the text of the information sent to me: Air Bag recall
If your air bag was replaced under the old recall you MAY have to go through it all again and as I have read in the news, there may be several million additional vehicles added to the recall list.
This is exactly the way Triptek programs their tire pressure sensors in my RV. It's based on temperature and pressure so if the temperature rises, the TPMS system calls for higher pressures in the tires. The base temperature is at 65 degrees.
I love the system because it tells me if I'm above or below the ideal pressure and I can inflate my tires at any time. I just turn to the proper tire screen and fill or release as needed. That's a huge benefit for me. I don't have to wait until morning to inflate my tires. I can inflate them first thing in the morning, at noon when the sun is shining on them or after skidding to a halt in 100 degree weather. It doesn't matter. My TPMS calculates it for me.
Once you've had the pleasure of getting the heat adjusted tire pressures, you won't want to go back to the old way of checking pressures in the morning only.
Always wise to out think the tire engineers....:S....
I've never seen anything anywhere that encourages one to fill a HOT tire...but of course, I've never "skidded to a halt in 100 degree weather" either...:W....Dennis
And yet, whenever someone has a tire problem, they come to this forum to blame the tire manufacturer and swear that they maintained their tires EXACTLY according to the manufacturers recommendations. :B
So do the Konis eliminate or reduce the harsh road feedback that is common on the F53? I know some bad roads it feels like the windows will rattle out. I am interested too but it's a lot of money and want to make sure it's worth it. Also, do you need a shop to install or is it a DIY job?
It is a pretty simple DIY job since the shocks are not gas charged. They can be extended or retracted manually to fit on to the attach points without the hassle of raising or lowering the suspension when fitting a gas charged shock.
Do you have fuel pressure at the injectors? If you do you should smell raw fuel at the exhaust outlet.
If not, you are not getting any fuel and you need to start eliminating items like the injector pump, etc.
I wonder why the chart DOES NOT follow it's own rule at the bottom that says:
Tire manufacturers never recommend inflating a tire to less than the specified cold inflation pressure. The bead of an RV/commercial tire can unseat
if its pressure gets too low resulting in a catastrophic tire failure. The general rule of thumb is to inflate a tire to a proportionately higher starting value when the ambient tire/temperature is hotter than 65 degrees and to the recommended Cold Inflation Pressure value at temperatures below 65
The chart then shows that at a recommended cold inflation pressure of 100psi, or any psi, if the temp drops to 32 degrees, it says you should inflate to less than the recommended cold inflation pressure. If it followed it's own advice, the chart would stop at 65 degrees. :R
The Bilsteins and Monroes are both gas charged, which means they have initial resistance to any small bump and that bump is transmitted back through the frame and steering wheel to you.
The Koni FSD are not gas charged and they absorb the small road joints and other bumps and do a great job of preventing proposing and excessive body roll.
For really large bumps they all work about the same. I took my nearly new Bilsteins off of my coach and GAVE them away so that I could install the Koni shocks. That was probably 60,000 miles ago and they are still doing their job.
If you don't use your coach very often, it may not be worth it to you. If you put 15-20,000 miles a year on your rig, like I do, it was well worth the investment in my comfort.
So you want to go with an "anonymous" tire inflation chart with no idea who came up with this theory and something that is not endorsed by any tire manufacturer?
Me, I'm going to follow the tire manufacturer's charts.
The problem with a TPMS is usually faulty set-up bu the owner and not the TPMS itself. If the coach was weighed and the tire charts say that you should be using 95psi MINIMUM in the tire, as an example, then the TPMS should be set higher. From reading the various posts on this forum, that 95 psi is what most people set their TPMS for. This means that the tire has to lose 10% or so before the alarm is sent. Who knows what damage is done to that tire when driving for xx miles with the tire under-inflated until air is added to bring it up to the MINIMUM required air pressure of 95psi. The same goes for ONE dual going under-inflated and causing damage to both tires. Others have said that they do not add air when the TPMS sounds an alarm when the tire was cold in the morning because after they get on the road, the tire will warm up and the pressure will increase.
For the TPMS to have any use at all, it needs to sound an alarm when the tire gets to the 95psi MINIMUM, and NOT 10% below 95psi. This means that you have to inflate your tires for a certain amount over 95psi, when the tire is cold before you have driven on it, to properly monitor and protect your tires. Then, when the tire pressure drops to 95psi, you will be warned to add air BEFORE damage is done. Any warning after it has dropped below the MINIMUM of 95psi is too late.
Sort of a known problem on a lot of RV doors that use the Trimark handle. The pot metal breaks inside and the latch must be drilled out to open the door. Many people ONLY use the dead bolt portion of the lock and do not use the other lock that controls the door handle.
While you try the slide switch, also switch on your "battery boost" switch to add those batteries to the circuit.
If you do not hear the pump running, it is not low on fluid or have air in the system. It is an electrical problem.
The P chassis is 103" and the W chassis is 108.5". There is only one belt for everything. Be sure to check out BOTH of your idler pulleys for bearing wear. All it takes is a 3/8" breaker bar to take tension off of the belt to change it. Be sure to have a routing diagram with you to replace the belt as it will only go on with one configuration.
The problem with a TPMS is usually faulty set-up bu the owner and not the TPMS itself. If the coach was weighed and the tire charts say that you should be using 95psi MINIMUM in the tire, then the TPMS should be set higher. From reading the various posts on this forum, that 95 psi is what most people set their TPMS for. This means that the tire has to lose 10% or so before the alarm is sent. Who knows what damage is done to the tire when driving for xx miles with the tire under-inflated until air is added to bring it up to the MINIMUM required air pressure of 95psi. Others have said that they did not add air when the TPMS sounds an alarm when the tire was cold because after they get on the road, the tire will warm up and the pressure will increase.
For the TPMS to have any use at all, it needs to sound an alarm when the tire gets to 95psi, and NOT 10% below 95psi. This means that you have to inflate your tires for a certain amount over 95psi, when the tire is cold before you have driven on it, to properly monitor and protect your tires. Then, when the tire pressure drops to 95psi, you will be warned to add air BEFORE damage is done. Any warning after it has dropped below the MINIMUM of 95psi is too late.
Wander around the entire dealership and look the place over. Do they have a lot of coaches just sitting and waiting for service? Does the service area look like it is run by professionals or are the mechanics there people that are not qualified to work in a decent shop?
Buying from a local dealer is only worthwhile IF you intend to use them for service or warranty work. In most cases, service can be found with a higher quality and quicker service at a truck facility that will also work on RV's.
Naturally with warranty work you are stuck with an authorized service facility that can do warranty work BUT if it is an engine/chassis issue, you still can take it to a truck shop and avoid the dealership.
Don't be afraid to buy from another dealer, even if it is hundreds of miles away.
The Ford spark plug problem (plugs blowing out of the head) was in the very earliest versions of the motor. Simply the casting was too thin and not enough threads. Any later version, problem solved.
My 2001 is a "later version".
The Ford spark plug problem existed for several years and included the 2 valve engine, that suffered from blow out, AND the newer 3 valve engine that used a two piece spark plug, which if removed without using the proper procedure and a special tool, also caused a major/expensive problem.
Most closets have drawers underneath. You can remove some of the drawers to get a full length closet. If you need a lot of closet space, maybe look at a bunkhouse floor plan and convert the bunks in to a large closet for her dresses as well as other storage.
When using a TPMS on duals, with the extended valve stem, the temperature reading of the tire is almost useless. The temperature it senses is way too low to be of any use in determining if the tire is overheating.