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 > Your search for posts made by 'rgatijnet1' found 1003 matches.

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RE: Wow, just wow, The rv of my dreams

I bet it gets a lot better mileage than my A. :B
rgatijnet1 02/23/17 11:22am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Condensation in slide corner

I had inside condensation on my front cap that would drip around my cabinets and dash. It turned out NOT being a leak from the outside but an area where the fiberglass batt insulation had shifted and left areas with no insulation at all. When we were in areas with a high humidity, like Florida and other coastal areas of the country, the difference in temperature from the outside to the inside would cause enough condensation to accumulate on the inside to look like a leak, dripping water and all. I solved the problem by spraying foam insulation on the inside of my front cap. I think it is a possibility that you may have areas that lack sufficient insulation and condensation develops on the inside surfaces of your coach.
rgatijnet1 02/23/17 09:14am Class A Motorhomes
RE: throttle return springd

Check to see if the Dorman #59209 springs may fit. They are used on a ton of different vehicles during the 1993 era. They are available online from several places.
rgatijnet1 02/22/17 06:48pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: WORKHORSE DRONE DELIEVERY

There is always the thief thing as well. They will just follow the drone to your house haha... The UPS and FEDX guys and gals are real good here where we live to bring the packages up to the porch out of the bad weather... Postal folks do the same thing for packages... I'm not all that sure what the Drone Life expectancy will be around here flying low over the houses. Lots of guns around here haha... Roy Ken Around here, the thieves follow the UPS/Fed X trucks. Recently a group of 4 girls followed the truck and then stole the boxes from the front porch at Hulk Hogan's house. I guess they did not count on him having video cameras that recorded each one of them, and their car, as they stole the items. :B
rgatijnet1 02/21/17 01:31pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: roof clearance lights

Go to this website: LED lights If you search their website you can probably find replacement LED lights for your application. Get the LED lights with the TWO wires. I went with the exact same size but they were sealed, meaning that even if water got under the lens, there was no way that it could leak inside or that any water would affect the electrical components. Once you find the replacement lights, you can either set them in to a bed of sealant/adhesive or caulk and screw them in place. I have had mine now for 5 years and they are still brighter than my old incandescent clearance lights and there is no leaks.
rgatijnet1 02/21/17 01:21pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Some fun We did this about 10 years ago on this forum

Single City...Sturgis, SD
rgatijnet1 02/19/17 02:42pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Some fun We did this about 10 years ago on this forum

Utah, anywhere in the State
rgatijnet1 02/19/17 02:41pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Sub floor

prior to replacing the carpet, and after the damaged sub floor is replaced, I would coat the entire sub floor with at least two coats of polyurethane. This will not only help protect your floor from water damage but will also help eliminate any odors from the existing carpet. On some coaches, like mine, the sub floor is laminated to foam to provide a thick sandwich type of floor that is well insulated.
rgatijnet1 02/19/17 06:15am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Coachnet not available in Maryland anymore:-(

Read the fine print under the membership rates. Coach-Net
rgatijnet1 02/16/17 06:30am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ford Transmission

I also have to fill through the small dipstick tube. I took a piece of clear plastic tubing that fit tight around the dipstick tube and was long enough to extend out past the hood. Then I fastened a funnel to the tube and have no problem pouring the fluid in to the funnel since it is now free and clear of any obstructions.
rgatijnet1 02/16/17 05:05am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ford Transmission

For the minimal amount that it would cost, do it for your own piece of mind and continue to enjoy your coach.
rgatijnet1 02/14/17 06:15am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Stuck in the mud, any tips?

I would suggest that you somehow lift the rear end of the coach, with a wrecker, or whatever, so that you do not drag the belly of the coach across the ground if you just tried to pull the coach out. A board under the rear levelers MAY work but you also might find that they can raise the coach for leveling but that they are not strong enough to raise the rear wheels off of the ground.
rgatijnet1 02/13/17 11:36am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Replacing decal stripe

If you have a SIGN shop near you, I am sure that they can match the color vinyl as well as apply it or give it to you to apply. Since sign shops deal with the vinyl all of the time you might do better letting them apply it for you.
rgatijnet1 02/13/17 05:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Rubber roof replaced

Wrinkles and bubbles should not exist. I would suspect that the roof was installed by RV mechanics and not by roofers that deal with rubber roofs all of the time. Any wrinkles can hinder drainage and can cause weak areas in the rubber with the flexing. Air gaps mean that the rubber was not embedded in to the adhesive properly and just points to the lack of knowledge with the product. A rubber roof is not rocket science but there is a right way to install it so that you do not have bubbles or wrinkles. In 37 years as a RV technician, I have NEVER seen an RV roof replaced by a "Roofer" Or non RV roofing company. Wrinkles and some bubbles may be normal. The OP needs to post some pics of the problem. When you use the Dicor sealant, THAT will cause temporary bubbling and possibly wrinkles that shrink in a few weeks. If the installer did NOT use adequate Adhesive that will cause problems. If this is the case(not a big problem), I would NOT want it redone, I would ask for a partial Cash refund of what I paid. Also, if the unit was NOT redecked with wood, that will cause the problem also and if that is the case, I would demand the complete roof be redone and redecked. YOU NEVER REPLACE A EPDM ROOF WITHOUT NEW DECKING. Doug All true. The point of my post was that RV techs are NOT roofers. As a commercial contractor we installed hundreds of thousands of square feet of EPDM roofing and wrinkles and adhesion bubbles are not acceptible and that most RV techs do not have the skill to do the job right. Commercial roofs are much more challanging than some 8x40 roof on an RV. I have seen brand new EPDM roofs coming out of the RV factory that look exactly like what you would expect when you have an inexperienced installer working to a time schedule. The factory doesn't care and will say that it is covered by their minuscule 2-5 year warranty. Commercial roofs are usually warranted for 20 years with ZERO maintenance requirements. Nobody gets on the roof of a commercial building and washes it and reseals ALL of the penetrations every six months. Commercial buildings are also exposed to the elements 24/7 and able to withstand 130 MPH winds, which I doubt if most RV's will ever experience. An EPDM roof is a fine product, IF it is installed correctly and not by someone that thinks they can handle it. As they say...a Jack of all trades and a master of none. The fact that this roof was turned over to the customer in this condition says everything about the quality done by that particular RV shop.
rgatijnet1 02/11/17 10:26am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Rubber roof replaced

Wrinkles and bubbles should not exist. I would suspect that the roof was installed by RV mechanics and not by roofers that deal with rubber roofs all of the time. Any wrinkles can hinder drainage and can cause weak areas in the rubber with the flexing. Air gaps mean that the rubber was not embedded in to the adhesive properly and just points to the lack of knowledge with the product. A rubber roof is not rocket science but there is a right way to install it so that you do not have bubbles or wrinkles.
rgatijnet1 02/10/17 03:46pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hot Water Flush

This is one of the main reasons why the heating element will quickly fail if the water heater is not flushed when it is replaced.
rgatijnet1 02/10/17 12:09pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: State parks?

Go to ReserveAmerica.com and you will find all of the details about most State parks, etc.
rgatijnet1 02/09/17 10:28am Class A Motorhomes
RE: How expensive to replace the slide out awning fabric?

A friend removed the fabric from his toppers, took them to a shop that had sunbrella fabric and had them duplicated. He then installed the new ones. Said he saved a lot of money over typical toppers That is exactly what I did. A local shop ordered the fabric and sewed it to match the fabric I took out. Total cost for my long topper fabric was $110. This took about 2 hours for me to change out since I replaced the springs at the same time.
rgatijnet1 02/09/17 04:56am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Old coach smells

Any chance that a small critter or two got in to your coach and have taken up residence? A little mouse urine and feces can change the odor in an RV.
rgatijnet1 02/07/17 01:42pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: RV Armour or Line X Roof

EPDM on a building is different than EPDM on a RV. On a building, it stays still, and is well sealed. On a RV, the sealant used is a lot less, and is exposed to high winds going down the road, forcing water in cracks. EPDM by itself isn't bad... it is all the cracks and seams that kill it, and it only takes a few millimeters of a gap or crack to cause major water damage. Plus, you are one twig away from a puncture with EPDM, while it takes more to damage a fiberglass or metal roof. I would say the best roof available today would be a one piece aluminum roof that is crowned over the sides by a few inches (and soldered/welded into place) Then, something like rvroof's epoxy (where it cures, not dries) atop of that so there are no seams. This way, there are no seams for water to get into, and by chance, a scrape by a branch removes some of the elastomer, the metal underneath still keeps a seal. I agree that a one piece aluminum roof is good but to say that an EPDM roof, on the coast of Florida, where it is approved for 130+ MPH winds, cannot handle an RV is not realistic. A commercial building is exposed 100% of the time to winds, rain, snow, etc. It has many times more penetrations and since it is much larger, it has seams about every 10 feet, or every 20 feet, if it is a large roof. You can believe what you want but I have experience on both. The problem is that most RV techs are not roofers and they do not know how to properly install or seal an EPDM roof.
rgatijnet1 02/06/17 02:55pm Class A Motorhomes
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