I agree, always use a hose for your own sanitary control if nothing else. If it was a mess before I had to use, I would clean the area up first, for my own sanitary health. You don't want sewage splashing up on your under carriage. I think the deep intake is built that way just to contain any mistakes, and probably to keep as much excess rain water out as possible. In National Lampoon's movie, sewage is also dumped down the storm sewer, but that doesn't make it right.
We used clear plastic, like is used in covers for golf carts and dodgers on boats. They are held in place with Velcro on top nd bottom and then 1/8th inch cord in grove around door. The reason for the clear, flexible plastic over plexiglass or lexan was ease of storage. Rolled up panels just fold and fit in junk drawer.
Trying to answer my own questions -
"So I've still got questions about the "Shortstop 12v s34 40A" circuit breaker." _- Its a circuit breaker, not a solenoid, power flows both directions as long as its under 40 amps and it opens restricting power flow above 40 amps, not closed until power is applied to it.
"Does it allow current to flow both directions?" - Yes, as long as it is below 40 amps
Or is it just one directional? Nope, power is only on one side, the stud marked "Bat" for Battery and the side marked "Aux" will be isolate if over 40 amps.
"What is the reason they are in the lines other than protection?" - The only reason.
Just as a circuit protector or to prevent back flow of electricity? - Circuit Protection for below 40 amps.
"Does it allow trailer battery to be charged by the towing vehicle? That has always been my assumption, but now a reason for more investigation." - At this time I'd say yes, as long as it doesn't exceed 40 amps.
My problem was thinking the solenoid theory instead a simple breaker. Took some serious conversations to get this thought pattern out of my head. I think the 2 gallons of gasoline and the 60 lbs. of propane next to the pulsating battery cable was what was clouding my thoughts. And having no problems and then driving though a day of big rain storms and instantly having problems didn't help. You've always got to go back to the basics and look for the simple answer.
Thanks for reading and answering. On the road again and camping tomorrow night. LIFE IS GOOD
I cleaned our trailer roof with "Dicor Rubber Roof Cleaner", today. I used it because I had it and felt it was something that wouldn't damage the rubber. I guess, I would like it to be cleaner and I would like to use a product other than that sold by the manufacturers for convenience more than cheapness, but feel simple products work better. I have tried the Murphy's Oil soap and not impressed with the results. I'd like to try the Spic and Span, but unclear if this is a liquid soap or the powder my Grandmother used. Doing a search here on cleaning roofs, pone person said he had used Spic and Span for ten years, that's the kind of product I'm looking for. So is the Spic and Span liquid or powder? Thank you for your time.
When traveling, I always carry a battery jump pack. If trailer battery is down, or if truck battery has run down, you can jump start the battery to get the truck started, pull in the trailer slide, or charge a cell phone. Also great for helping out a fellow traveler. Portable, convenient and always ready, if you keep it charged. Charging it is part of my "get ready" to travel.
Thank you for the replies and you were both right on the money. I saw your replies after I had got the problem fixed. I suspected a short, but I did not know about the second breaker. Please read below.
The plot thickens -
I really thought it was the thing I was calling a "12 volt single isolator rectifier" and that's what I went to bed thinking last night. My objective this morning was to remove the circuit unit from the circuit by putting the 12 volt battery positive wires on the same post. Turned power on, same thunk. That's it, I'm done.
Off to Bourbon RV in Bourbon, Missouri on I-44 for some help. At first they were puzzled, but what "Steve the Technician" knew that I didn't is that there were two of these circuit breakers. I was looking at the wrong one. They are very close to each other on either side of the front frame. The second one is hidden in a receptacle box on the back side of the same frame member. With tripping and resetting it was the source of the "thunk" and hot from being exercised. Determination was a short between there and the panel. He began feeling along the under skirt and found a place where positive wire was pinched between frame and plywood floor. Slit under skirt, pride wire out from between frame and plywood floor, repaired worn spot by insulating with tape, and replaced "thunking" breaker with new one, because it had been exercised so much, and I kept old one as a spare, plus a secondary new one. Seems to have been a problem waiting to happen since construction in late 2009 or early 2010 and finally wore through after about 15,000 miles. Not related to rain storm or any thing else, just time and wear and eventually a short against the steel frame.
So I've still got questions about the "Shortstop 12v s34 40A" circuit breaker.
Does it allow current to flow both directions?
Or is it just one directional?
What is the reason they are in the lines other than protection?
Just as a circuit protector or to prevent back flow of electricity?
Does it allow trailer battery to be charged by the towing vehicle? That has always been my assumption, but now a reason for more investigation.
Thoughts or opinions?
By the way, did I say the guys and gals at Bourbon RV in Bourbon, Mo. on I-44 are good? You bet they are!
So driving across I-70 over Memorial Day Holiday Weekend, I got in to a big rain storm. Pulled in to rest area twice as we were driving east with the storm and kept catching up to it. Finally headed south and when we got to our destination, we had no 12 volt power and the main power cable from the battery was jumping.
I resolved the battery cable jumping by shutting the 12 volt power off. I have a positive wire battery cut off switch. Still had trailer lights when hooked to the vehicle and crippled home. I'm guessing with no brakes, but we have a good size truck and able to stop with out much trouble.
Spent today trouble shooting. Battery was first thing questioned and it tested good. I finally isolated the problem to an "isolation solenoid" on front of trailer frame. No matter what fuse I pull or even after disconnecting the entire battery panel, I still get this sound of a circuit breaker tripping and then quickly resetting and tripping again.
No clue of what this is actually called and I'm having trouble even finding a name or number on it. Battery positive cable goes to it, hooking to one post and then continues on back out, hooked to the other post. There is NO ground wire, but it might ground to frame as it is held on with 2 machine screws AND I think the power wire coming out of it connects into a junction box with the 7 pin plug from the truck, before going on to the power distribution panel in the cabin. Any clues?
2010 Dutchmen 25C-GS
I appreciate your time.
On our Dutchmen 25C-GS we have a very nice large pass through area under the front. The larger than normal doors was a big plus to me. Using the plastic milk crates you can get at Wally World and other big box stores, we have divided the area in to 3 sections. This was done by putting 2 x 2's down the center (front to back) to hold the cartons in the middle. These cartons are used to keep those little needed extras. That center storage keeps things from sliding across and since the crates just sit there they can be taken out if the need arises. On the driver's side we keep electrical cords, satellite dish, hydraulic bottle check, spare tables and cleaning supplies. The center with the crates has spare hose, extra sewer connections in a plastic box sitting in the crates, a patio rug and other seldom used parts. The passenger (door) side has the tool boxes, leveling blocks, fire tools, a cargo net for holding a small rechargeable drill. Since the whole storage area is under the head of the bed, we have also lined the walls and ceiling with 1 inch hard cell foam for insulation. A 110 volt electrical box and TV antenna connection completes the area. Yep, we use it.
We don't camp, we tour or cruise. The basic principal is the smallest we can be comfortable with, as opposed to the largest we could afford. And that's the traveling, not just the ownership of the trailer/5th wheel/RV. Didn't want to have to tow another vehicle, wanted descent fuel mileage, 12 towing, 18 to 20 when not towing and wanted to be able to store at our home. And like other people said, multiple uses. Some of the places we go, I think our rig is too big. I can't imagine a big Class A or a 5th wheel towering into the sky.
Just a personal choice, with lots of thought.
"Performance 303" is specifically designed to protect surfaces like the mylar of the "decals". I don't purposely try to not wax over the "decals/mylars" , but I always cover with "Performance 303" before I start. I'm not associated with this product, but have started carrying it in our marina store because of its reputation and how it works. Check it out, available in lots of places. Works good on lots of vinyl/plastic surfaces like Jeep hard tops and also tires and tire covers.
Thank you for the replies and cmments. Good advice and confirmation that many people have had to modify things to make equipment compatable. Just like the sanitation pipe scene in RV, "We need to get an adapter". I guess that's camping.
We have a electric power awning on our current trailer and had a manual awning on the last one. Both have there advantages, the wife likes the simplicity of deploying the electric one. The electric awning we have is from Carefree of Colorado, but is not adjustable.
I like the manual because you can adjust, tie down and set at an angle.
I don't think manual or electric would be a deal breaker for me, but my wife sure does like the electric awning. I imagine we will have an electric one from now on. ;-)