Here is a link to a very good explanation of the govt. testing requirements for each tire type. The actual govt. regs are available, but are difficult and time consuming to research as they keep referring to different sections of the law.
This person did all the work and put this together:
Plain English Testing standards for ST and LT Tires
That so-called "study" gives neither sources nor references of any kind for the information it purports to base its conclusions on. Well, except for nods to other posters here in the Forums. It reads more like a church bulletin than a scientific paper: preaching articles of Faith to The Converted.
Best advice given here came early on: Consult a local tire guy you trust, and buy accordingly.
What was this then?
The references for my evaluation may be found at the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration (FMCSA) webpage:
ST tire standard may be found at FMCSA Part 571, subsection 109.
LT tire standard may be found at FMCSA Part 571, subsection 139.
Part 571, subsection 139 references Part 571 subsection 119 which can be found at:
Well I doubt that the propylene glycol caused any "fumes" as it has a very low vapor pressure. The following is from Dow's website; they produce propylene glycol. I could see the compressor accumulating CO and dispelling it into the camper easier than any of the other thoughts.
PG is not volatile, and is miscible with water. Concentrations of PG in the air are expected to be extremely low because of its low vapor pressure. It is readily biodegraded in water or soil (via aerobic and anaerobic mechanisms).
If a spill should occur, PG partitions almost equally in water and soil. Relatively little will go into the air because of its low vapor pressure. PG is not expected to bio-accumulate and is considered to be practically non-toxic to fish and aquatic invertebrates on an acute basis except at very high concentrations.
I paid about $420 for a 30' travel trailer. They inspected the roof (no wash, I did that), then washed the trailer, removed all black streaks, hand waxed entire trailer, and cleaned the main 20' awning. Awning cleaning was $19.99 of that $420.
Had a disk fusion in my neck the 2 months before. I got as far as washing the roof and realized there was no way in he** I was going to do the wash and wax etc. Was surprised at the price. Think I'll just do that every spring from now on. I'll still wash it myself from time to time throughout the summer.
Guess I've missed a few labels that I should have read. Was always under the impression that RV Antifreeze didn't contain propylene glycol, but apparently was wrong. I know that auto antifreeze is toxic to animals and stress to dispose of it correctly so it can't be ingested. IIRC it's the prop gly that has the sweet taste that animals think is wonderful to drink. They usually have a horrible death. Our neighbor's truck had a water pump leak and until he got it fixed I found myself washing where it had dripped onto the concrete driveway several times a day. Guess we need to include the RV stuff on the long list of things to make sure our dogs or anyone else's can't get into. Thanks for that info.
Dadmomh, I think you are confusing propylene glycol with ethylene glycol. Ethylene glycol is commonly found in auto anti-freeze. Here is an excerpt about propylene glycol, found in RV anti-freeze:
""An interesting fact about propylene glycol is that it is non-toxic when ingested even in reasonably large amounts. Unlike its dangerous and frequently lethal cousin, ethylene glycol, PG is easily metabolized by the liver into normal products of the citric acid metabolic cycle, which are completely nontoxic to the body. Approximately 45 percent of any ingested PG is excreted directly from the body and never even comes into contact with the liver. The elimination half-life for propylene glycol is approximately four hours, and there is no bioaccumulation (buildup in the body over time). A few rare incidents have occurred where a person ingested a large quantity of propylene glycol and suffered some liver and neurological effects as a result, but these were short-lived and subsided once the material was metabolized and excreted. Both experimental and anecdotal evidence to date indicate PG to be completely non-carcinogenic, despite its “petroleum-based” origin.""
Propylene glycol is also very commonly used in the flavored juice used in e-ciggs, the "electronic" cigarettes. It's used as a flavor carrier and to help generate the vapor you get when you exhale.
So, propylene glycol is safe, ethylene glycol is not.
It is the propylene glycol that concerns me.
You may want to avoid Mio energy drink!
I don't drink that stuff either. DW and I read labels on our food.
Reading labels is one thing, understanding what you're reading is another. You're probably "consuming" propylene glycol whether you know it or not:
The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has classified propylene glycol as an additive that is "generally recognized as safe" for use in food. It is used to absorb extra water and maintain moisture in certain medicines, cosmetics, or food products. It is a solvent for food colors and flavors....
Remember, proper spring bar selection includes: Tongue weight of the trailer PLUS weight of cargo loaded behind the rear axle of the tow vehicle. Here is a link to Reese's brochure with a spring bar selection chart:
I have an 1,100# tongue weight and was using 1,200# bars. Didn't seem to get much out of the dual cam sway control, and rig seemed to bounce a bit. I switched to 1,500# bars, and all feels a lot better. I figured, though according to the Reese guide I was ok, my 1,100# TW was to close to the top end of the 1,200# bars.
Too many variables. You get what you get. If your worried about fuel economy, then maybe you better sell your RV and truck and buy yourself a hybrid.
Wow, absolutely useless answer. He didn't ask your opinion, he asked what those who have 5.9 Cummins engines get for mileage.
OP, if I had a Cummins, I'd tell ya. And I'm sure it would be better than the 8.8mpg I get out of my gasser.
We are NOT comfortable running it on propane while driving down the road, so we have a couple of higher end coolers that we use.
I don't know why folks post all the stuff about using propane when traveling when you don't want to do that. You do realize that your fridge is about as "high end cooler" as you can get. If it is already cold, it will stay that way a long time even if not running at all.
You really need to reread his post and question before commenting. He wasn't asking about using propane, he is under the impression that his frige will work on 12v only, without propane. And is asking if anyone knows how to do so.
Quote: "Anyone aware of a way to make it work on just 12V?"
Well, I got to the camper Friday afternoon, a little leary of what I might find. To my surprise, the fridge was at 34 degrees, the batteries were still at 2/3 according to the wall indicator, and it never changed over to the full LP tank. The one it was using was half full. So, all in all, there wasn't much of a drain on the LP or batteries for the week. Temps outside were probably around 80 during the day, 60-70 overnight.
It was so nice not having to pull all the food and drinks out last Monday, load up a cooler to take home, only to load up a cooler again and bring it all back Friday.
Thanks all for your thoughts and advice. Experiment was a success!
Well I'm home now. Decided to go with it and see what happens. I pulled the LP detector and radio fuses. LOL. When I did, a little red light came on next to each fuse, I guess to tell you which one is blown. Now I'm wondering if the lights will draw as much juice as the items I disabled. Guess I'll find out Friday. Fortunately, this week is supposed to be milder than I originaly thougth, with overnight lows in the lower 60s.
maybe one of these will buy you a couple of days,
15 watt battery tender
otherwise a larger solar system would definitely help.
Yep, that would probably do the trick. Unfortunately I waited too long to pose the question on here. Damn my procrastination. Lol. I actually have to solar "units" which came off 2 new Volkswagens years ago. They're about 12" x 16". Back then, not sure if they still do, they would ship their cars with these small solar panels hung on a window, plugged into the OBDC port. They were to keep the batteries charged while the cars were shipped and stored until hitting the dealerships. I don't know waht their output is; can't be much. But I wonder if they'd be enough to bridge the gap.
You never stated how many batteries you have so everyone is guessing. Do you have 2 or 4 or more?
If 2 I think you should be fine. More than two no problem at all. A solar panel would really help in this situation.
Oh crap, so sorry. I thought I did. I have 2.
Yes to all regarding breakers. I guess I should have said that I was planning on pulling the fuse for LP detector. The fire and CO are individual battery operated. My radio does not have a clock, so I don't think it pulls parasitically. However, it would be easy enought to pull that fuse too.
Unfortunately, since it's only a couple of days until my first weekend trip, a week long dry run is too late. Guess I should have posted this a week ago. Lol.
Don't have time to find dry ice, but I can probably put a couple bags of regular ice in a plastic tray before leaving. That would help.
Even if I take the food home in a cooler, I don't mind. My main concern is:
-I don't want to kill the batteries by running them dead. That's most important to me.
-It would be nice to have a cold, even if empty fridge when I arrive back.
Thanks for the replies. I guess in hind site, I could turn the batteries off before leaving, and then I might be able to see if I can get the park owners to turn my batteries back on a day or so before I arrive. The disconnect is located outside of the box they're locked in. They'd have to hang around and make sure they heard the fridge fire up. Just trying not to impose on them too much, since they're letting me leave it there at no charge. Of course I'd have to take left over food home, which is not a big deal.
The batteries only supply the 12v DC to the fridges electronics. LP or 120v shore power are used to feed the cooling system. I assume you'll leave it on LP gas for the week? If so I'd think it would make it.
If you're considering running an inverter for a week there's no way it'll make it.
Yep. I was planning on running it on LP. The camper will not be used during the week, so I'll turn all breakers off except the one controlling the fridge. I assume that will be electronics and the ignitor?
As the subject says, I have a subjective battery question. I know there won't be a definitive answer here, but looking for your gut feel.
I'm going camping this weekend, and then again next weekend, at the same campground. Since I know the owners of the campground, they're going to let me leave my camper in a parking lot for the week so I won't have to tow it the 75 miles back home, and then 75 miles back the next weekend. There will not be electric to plug into for the week.
So, the question. Do you think my batteries will last the week running only the refrigerator? I'm hoping to leave whatever food and drinks inside. More importantly, I'd like to arrive the second weekend with the fridge cold, so I can avoid the 1/2 day or so it would take to re-cool it. I've never boondocked with it yet, so I don't have any history on battery longevity.
-I'll be leaving it at the campground unplugged from Monday afternoon until the following Saturday morning, at which time I'll be able to place on new site and plug in.
-The batteries will be fully charged when left. They are group 24, standard 12v deep cycle RV batteries.
-The batteries are about 3 years old, always maintained, i.e., water kept up. Except they were run down to dead once last year; forgot to disconnect them once for 3 weeks while in storage. I take them out at season end, and keep them on a Battery Tender in my garage.
-Outside temps will be between 80 and 90 degrees. Inside could hit 100 degrees. Don't remember if the lot is shaded or sunny.
-Plan on turning off all breakers except the fridge.
So what do you think? Might they last the 5 days or so?
Thanks for your thoughts,
Ripperoo, I noticed that my awning is sagging a little also. Can you discribe what you are talking about as a center support?
SSKWISE, I got one of these: Tension Rafter
When the awning is stowed, I put a little positive up lift on it, just slightly higher than the end supports. Helps keep the center from sagging down, permanently bending it. With a slight up curven in the middle, water doesn't tend to accumulate in the middle; seems to run out the ends. Also, it's nice to use as a center rafter when the awning is out. Helps keep water from puddling in the center, and again keeps the roller from bending inward toward the camper when tensioned.