I always put the cooler full of beer on it. Would never go camping without that!
Only problem is as I keep drinking the beer, the cooler gets lighter. To solve the problem, I now bring two coolers of beer. :)
As far as I can read, the OP NEVER asked anyone's opinion, approval or assessment of their financial position. All he asked was about those who are out there fulltiming, living off retirement,social security, pensions etc., and how feasible it is. His question: "I would be interested to hear from those who are doing it on ss or small pensions, and is it doable, or a big struggle?"
None of the remarks or attacks on his current position helps, nor is it anyone's business.
Additionally, he did say he and his wife are trying to make a plan for the FUTURE. 5 to 10 years down the road.
It always amazes me how quickly people like to get off topic and attack someone. Sounds like he recognizes their situation and wants input on the costs of a full timing lifestyle. NOT your opinion on whether or not he's guilty of poor financial decisions.
Get off your high horses. If you can't offer any helpful suggestions to his original question, just don't post. Find another way to make you feel better about yourself.
Sorry OP. I am unable to offer any help as I am not a fulltimer. There does seem to be some small positive strides in the housing market. I hope for you and all of us, this is the beginning of it coming back.
the irony is everyone trying to show an accountant how to manage and generate income. LOL just awesome.
Not half as ironic as an Accountant asking us to begin with, though. :@
WOW. A bit judgemental aren't we? Too bad everyone's life didn't turn out as perfect as yours.
I don't understand the thought process of some posters. I know that they are different sensor systems on the market and that some of the after market systems work much better. I also know that my 20 year old sensors work just fine. So to say its a waste of time and energy to make them work, or to say you'll know when it is full, well, yep you sure will and it just might be to late.
Yep, I agree. I did a lot of research here when I bought my used and then new trailer. To date sensors work perfectly, and I'm glad they do. Maybe I'm OC, but if it's there, I want it to work properly. It doesn't matter if I can also tell that the gray tank is full when it backs up into the tub. I want my sensor to tell me; and it does.
never had them on any of my rigs. never a problem. i hear just as many reasons to have as to not have. flip a coin
X2 I hear folks complaining about them all the time including here. Just something else to spend money on.
Yeah, not really. I see more questions about how to get******off the top of the slide or prevent it from happening in the first place, than I do about having problems.
I've had one since new and would not do without it. So much easier not to have to drag a ladder out to make sure there are no branches or other debri on top before closing the slide and ruining the seal or bringing the debri insied.
Additionally, the topper give another layer of sun/weather protection from the top seal, arguably the most important one when it comes to keep water out.
To each his own, but I'd not do without it.
Here is a link to a very good explanation of the govt. testing requirements for each tire type. The actual govt. regs are available, but are difficult and time consuming to research as they keep referring to different sections of the law.
This person did all the work and put this together:
Plain English Testing standards for ST and LT Tires
That so-called "study" gives neither sources nor references of any kind for the information it purports to base its conclusions on. Well, except for nods to other posters here in the Forums. It reads more like a church bulletin than a scientific paper: preaching articles of Faith to The Converted.
Best advice given here came early on: Consult a local tire guy you trust, and buy accordingly.
What was this then?
The references for my evaluation may be found at the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration (FMCSA) webpage:
ST tire standard may be found at FMCSA Part 571, subsection 109.
LT tire standard may be found at FMCSA Part 571, subsection 139.
Part 571, subsection 139 references Part 571 subsection 119 which can be found at:
Well I doubt that the propylene glycol caused any "fumes" as it has a very low vapor pressure. The following is from Dow's website; they produce propylene glycol. I could see the compressor accumulating CO and dispelling it into the camper easier than any of the other thoughts.
PG is not volatile, and is miscible with water. Concentrations of PG in the air are expected to be extremely low because of its low vapor pressure. It is readily biodegraded in water or soil (via aerobic and anaerobic mechanisms).
If a spill should occur, PG partitions almost equally in water and soil. Relatively little will go into the air because of its low vapor pressure. PG is not expected to bio-accumulate and is considered to be practically non-toxic to fish and aquatic invertebrates on an acute basis except at very high concentrations.
I paid about $420 for a 30' travel trailer. They inspected the roof (no wash, I did that), then washed the trailer, removed all black streaks, hand waxed entire trailer, and cleaned the main 20' awning. Awning cleaning was $19.99 of that $420.
Had a disk fusion in my neck the 2 months before. I got as far as washing the roof and realized there was no way in he** I was going to do the wash and wax etc. Was surprised at the price. Think I'll just do that every spring from now on. I'll still wash it myself from time to time throughout the summer.
Guess I've missed a few labels that I should have read. Was always under the impression that RV Antifreeze didn't contain propylene glycol, but apparently was wrong. I know that auto antifreeze is toxic to animals and stress to dispose of it correctly so it can't be ingested. IIRC it's the prop gly that has the sweet taste that animals think is wonderful to drink. They usually have a horrible death. Our neighbor's truck had a water pump leak and until he got it fixed I found myself washing where it had dripped onto the concrete driveway several times a day. Guess we need to include the RV stuff on the long list of things to make sure our dogs or anyone else's can't get into. Thanks for that info.
Dadmomh, I think you are confusing propylene glycol with ethylene glycol. Ethylene glycol is commonly found in auto anti-freeze. Here is an excerpt about propylene glycol, found in RV anti-freeze:
""An interesting fact about propylene glycol is that it is non-toxic when ingested even in reasonably large amounts. Unlike its dangerous and frequently lethal cousin, ethylene glycol, PG is easily metabolized by the liver into normal products of the citric acid metabolic cycle, which are completely nontoxic to the body. Approximately 45 percent of any ingested PG is excreted directly from the body and never even comes into contact with the liver. The elimination half-life for propylene glycol is approximately four hours, and there is no bioaccumulation (buildup in the body over time). A few rare incidents have occurred where a person ingested a large quantity of propylene glycol and suffered some liver and neurological effects as a result, but these were short-lived and subsided once the material was metabolized and excreted. Both experimental and anecdotal evidence to date indicate PG to be completely non-carcinogenic, despite its “petroleum-based” origin.""
Propylene glycol is also very commonly used in the flavored juice used in e-ciggs, the "electronic" cigarettes. It's used as a flavor carrier and to help generate the vapor you get when you exhale.
So, propylene glycol is safe, ethylene glycol is not.
It is the propylene glycol that concerns me.
You may want to avoid Mio energy drink!
I don't drink that stuff either. DW and I read labels on our food.
Reading labels is one thing, understanding what you're reading is another. You're probably "consuming" propylene glycol whether you know it or not:
The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has classified propylene glycol as an additive that is "generally recognized as safe" for use in food. It is used to absorb extra water and maintain moisture in certain medicines, cosmetics, or food products. It is a solvent for food colors and flavors....
Remember, proper spring bar selection includes: Tongue weight of the trailer PLUS weight of cargo loaded behind the rear axle of the tow vehicle. Here is a link to Reese's brochure with a spring bar selection chart:
I have an 1,100# tongue weight and was using 1,200# bars. Didn't seem to get much out of the dual cam sway control, and rig seemed to bounce a bit. I switched to 1,500# bars, and all feels a lot better. I figured, though according to the Reese guide I was ok, my 1,100# TW was to close to the top end of the 1,200# bars.
Too many variables. You get what you get. If your worried about fuel economy, then maybe you better sell your RV and truck and buy yourself a hybrid.
Wow, absolutely useless answer. He didn't ask your opinion, he asked what those who have 5.9 Cummins engines get for mileage.
OP, if I had a Cummins, I'd tell ya. And I'm sure it would be better than the 8.8mpg I get out of my gasser.
We are NOT comfortable running it on propane while driving down the road, so we have a couple of higher end coolers that we use.
I don't know why folks post all the stuff about using propane when traveling when you don't want to do that. You do realize that your fridge is about as "high end cooler" as you can get. If it is already cold, it will stay that way a long time even if not running at all.
You really need to reread his post and question before commenting. He wasn't asking about using propane, he is under the impression that his frige will work on 12v only, without propane. And is asking if anyone knows how to do so.
Quote: "Anyone aware of a way to make it work on just 12V?"
Well, I got to the camper Friday afternoon, a little leary of what I might find. To my surprise, the fridge was at 34 degrees, the batteries were still at 2/3 according to the wall indicator, and it never changed over to the full LP tank. The one it was using was half full. So, all in all, there wasn't much of a drain on the LP or batteries for the week. Temps outside were probably around 80 during the day, 60-70 overnight.
It was so nice not having to pull all the food and drinks out last Monday, load up a cooler to take home, only to load up a cooler again and bring it all back Friday.
Thanks all for your thoughts and advice. Experiment was a success!
Well I'm home now. Decided to go with it and see what happens. I pulled the LP detector and radio fuses. LOL. When I did, a little red light came on next to each fuse, I guess to tell you which one is blown. Now I'm wondering if the lights will draw as much juice as the items I disabled. Guess I'll find out Friday. Fortunately, this week is supposed to be milder than I originaly thougth, with overnight lows in the lower 60s.
maybe one of these will buy you a couple of days,
15 watt battery tender
otherwise a larger solar system would definitely help.
Yep, that would probably do the trick. Unfortunately I waited too long to pose the question on here. Damn my procrastination. Lol. I actually have to solar "units" which came off 2 new Volkswagens years ago. They're about 12" x 16". Back then, not sure if they still do, they would ship their cars with these small solar panels hung on a window, plugged into the OBDC port. They were to keep the batteries charged while the cars were shipped and stored until hitting the dealerships. I don't know waht their output is; can't be much. But I wonder if they'd be enough to bridge the gap.