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RE: Laminate Floors and Slides
We replaced the carpet with Konecto vinyl laminate flooring (flexible) because it was very durable, only 3/16" thick and easy to install (requires no backing). For now, we have not removed the slide out carpet, so it overlaps the flooring and leaves a nicely finished look.
I think there are several options: 1) Leave the slide out carpet, 2) leave only the outer edge of the slide out carpet (1 - 2") and replace the rest with flooring, 3) replace all the slide out carpet and find a flexible edging material to go around the flooring in the slide out, and 4) replace all the slide out carpet with flooring and just overlap the main floor enough to look good (how much depends on your application).
With only 3/16" thickness, I'm thinking going with option 4. The vinyl flooring is very strong and flexible, so shouldn't break around the edges unless hit with something very heavy and sharp - and that would damage any flooring. I selected a "barn wood" looking flooring so the edges blend in colorwise.
I suggest you look at the Allure vinyl flooring at Home Depot before you decide to purchase any laminate. I just finished a small apartment with Allure "Country Pine" for my sister. I had uneven floors and a carpeted hallway to deal with, and it still looks great.
Marv
I am thinking option 4 but I am not sure.
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rtate
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09/07/09 06:29pm |
Tech Issues
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Laminate Floors and Slides
I am think of replacing my carpet with "wood look alike" flooring but I am always stumped on how to handle the joint where the slide meets the main area. Has anyone solved this problem?
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rtate
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09/07/09 02:05pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Suburban furnace problem HELP
What is your power connection? are you running off batteries or shore power? If battery, could be low enough to not allow motor to run fast enough to close sail switch.
Shore power? could be dirty sail switch.
Sail switch is located in fan area with small arm going into fan box. Check for smallest amount of debris on switch between arm and switch pin.
Bud
Running off shore power. I wondered about the limit switch. I have noticed the burner going on and off without the blower going off.
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rtate
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08/05/09 09:04am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Suburban furnace problem HELP
Now it quit again. The blower come on and it runs a little while without lighting and then goes off. HELP!
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rtate
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08/05/09 08:17am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Suburban furnace problem HELP
Now it is working again. What gives?
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rtate
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08/05/09 08:01am |
Tech Issues
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Suburban furnace problem HELP
My furnace quit working this morning. Fan comes on but burner won't light. I pulled the back off the furnace but dont have a clue on how to check out. It had been working fine until now. Plenty of propane in tank. What to do?
thanks
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rtate
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08/05/09 07:45am |
Tech Issues
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RE: What Flea and Tick Protection are You Using?
I dont have fleas or ticks but I do have a real problem with ringworms. Our new little kitten(Menaux) is clear now but has infected my wife, grandkids, kids, kids girl friend,and our grand dogs and grand cat. How is the best way to get rid of them?
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rtate
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07/25/09 04:03pm |
RV Pet Stop
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RE: A few mpg numbers from 2300 mile trip.
I usually get about 12 towing on flat ground here in FL., but thru the Smokeys this week I got about 13.2mpg, doesn't make sense to me, I though it would be more like 10-11, but I'm not complaining. Maybe it's that $2.23 gal. diesel I bought in Tenn..:)
I always get better milage in the mountains which I have a hard time understanding. It was explained to me that thinner air at 6000 feet or better causes less drag in the rig. Normally on flat ground I get between 10 to 12 mpg and I get as high as 14 mpg in the mountains. I guess I only go down hill most of the time. :)
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rtate
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07/15/09 06:34am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Electric brake problems
Well folks! I have rewired my trailer with 10 awg and soldered all connections and i am getting the same voltage reading at the brakes 10.6v. I noticed the wires from the magnets appear to be only about 16 gauge. I am about to give up and just live with my brakes like they are.
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rtate
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07/11/09 09:25am |
Towing
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RE: Electric brake problems
Good deal, if the existing wires going accross the axles don't bother pulling new wires through the axles. This is cause for many shorts, the wires move around inside the axles and chafe the insulation.
Just secure the new wire on the outside of the axle tubes with wire ties. Take your time, you will be rewarded with proper working brakes.
To help waterproof the connections I used 3M Liquid Tape and dabbed it all over the exposed connection. Once the liquid tape has set, you can use some black tape to cover (assuming you soldered the connections). In addition I bundled the wires together behind the backing plate then wire tied that, this is to stop any flexing at the splice that could break the wires.
That is exactly what i am doing. Coating the soldered connections with Liquid elec tape and wrapping with 3 M electrical tape. I am using duct tape and wire ties to fasten to the axels so there is no movement. The test will be tomorrow.
It also might be a good idea to also pull the drums and inspect the magnet wires for chafing inside the drums although I do think your issue is corroded connections.
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rtate
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07/09/09 06:26pm |
Towing
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Wyoming, Idaho and Oregon--Where to stay?
We are leaving the end of this month to spend about a month traveling thru Wyoming, Idaho and Oregon. We are looking for lots of natural beauty and cooler tempertures. We always stay in State or National Parks and hope to do the same this trip.
I would like your recommendation of must see places.
Thanks a bunch,
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rtate
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07/09/09 03:32pm |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: Electric brake problems
I am running new wire and soldering all connections. Had to stop about 2:00PM today because My hands were starting to cramp from the heat. I hope to finish tomorrow before the temps get much over 100 degrees. I just realized today that the wire going thru the axels was only 14 awg. That had to have been the work of Dexter Axel. Might have been the root of my problem.
I will let you know tomorrow how things work out.
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rtate
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07/09/09 03:16pm |
Towing
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RE: Electric brake problems
If I activate the brakes with the lever on my Prodigy controller I show 13v on the controller and 13v at the outlet pin13v at the outlet pin on the connector.
Well this is day three on messing with my brakes. The more I learn the less I know. My truck now has a 10 awg ground wire directly fron the battery to the controler. I also have a new 10 awg blue wire from the controler to the rv recepticle on the back of my truck at the advice of the tech at Prodigy .I still have the same problem. I have 12.7v at rv recepticle and 10.6v at the brake.12.7v at rv recepticle and 10.6v at the brake.
Well after three days of work, you lost .3V at the connection. That's .1V per day. The good news is you gained .1V at the trailer brakes.
First make sure you have a known GOOD ground to the trailer junction box.
Measure the voltage from the truck plug to the junction box. Junction box voltage should be very close or equal to the connection voltage. If not, you know where the problem is. If the voltage is good, try running new (jumper) wires (12GA or 10 GA) outside the trailer from the junction box on trailer to the first brake in the series, and measure the voltage there. If the voltage is acceptable, then you know where the problem lies and install the jumper wire to replace the existing trailer wires. If the voltage is not acceptable, using the jumper wire, you have a problem between the connector or trailer battery to the Junction box.
I am not doing too well. Am I? With the brake wire disconnected from the junction box on the trailer I get the same voltage as at the back of the truck so that looks good. If I hook up the brake wire it drops off to 10.7v. but I am not getting an unusual amp draw. Would bad connections (resistance make the amp draw increase? It is wired with 12 awg wire. I guess tomorrow I will try running a jumper wire to the brakes from the junction box and see what happens. I may just start cutting wires to each brake and see if any one of them make a difference. I quit working when I get so much sweat in my eyes that I cant see. Got up to 106 degrees today. Got to get this thing fixed so I can take off for Colorado!
Thanks for all the suggestions.
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rtate
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07/08/09 09:18pm |
Towing
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RE: Electric brake problems
Well this is day three on messing with my brakes. The more I learn the less I know. My truck now has a 10 awg ground wire directly fron the battery to the controler. I also have a new 10 awg blue wire from the controler to the rv recepticle on the back of my truck at the advice of the tech at Prodigy .I still have the same problem. I have 12.7v at rv recepticle and 10.6v at the brake. I have about the same numbers if I activate the breakaway switch. This tells me it probably had nothing to do with the wiring on the truck. My amp meter in the trailer indicates I am drawing 10 amps which tells me I dont have a short. Why am I getting a 2 volt drop thru the wiring and not pulling any more amps?
Please save what is left of my sanity.
I thought the general consensus was the trailer wiring was the
Whatever the reason its done.
problem, why are you working on the truck?
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rtate
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07/08/09 05:43pm |
Towing
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RE: Electric brake problems
Well this is day three on messing with my brakes. The more I learn the less I know. My truck now has a 10 awg ground wire directly fron the battery to the controler. I also have a new 10 awg blue wire from the controler to the rv recepticle on the back of my truck at the advice of the tech at Prodigy .I still have the same problem. I have 12.7v at rv recepticle and 10.6v at the brake. I have about the same numbers if I activate the breakaway switch. This tells me it probably had nothing to do with the wiring on the truck. My amp meter in the trailer indicates I am drawing 10 amps which tells me I dont have a short. Why am I getting a 2 volt drop thru the wiring and not pulling any more amps?
Please save what is left of my sanity.
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rtate
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07/08/09 04:14pm |
Towing
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RE: Electric brake problems
If you have 13V at the plug and then 10.5V at the junction box, you might want to check/clean the trailer ground. If that does not help things check the wiring to make sure it is 12Ga or larger. If that is OK, then check your connectors to make sure they are not corroded. If you have a breakaway switch, pull it and see if your brakes works as needed. And maybe check your voltage with breakaway switch pulled. If brakes are not working properly with breakaway switch pulled, then pull the wheels and see if the drums/shoes are greasey. Or the shoes are glazed.
I tried pulling the breakaway switch and had the same voltage loss fromn the house batteries to the wheels so I assume my problem lies in the trailer wiring. Would the current required to activate all magenets cause the voltage to drop down to 10.5v? Wish I had an amp meter. That would probably give me some valuable info.
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rtate
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07/04/09 05:25am |
Towing
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RE: austin texas rv parks
I secomd Mc Kinney Falls State Park.
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rtate
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07/03/09 06:21pm |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: Electric brake problems
Have you adjusted the brakes shoes?
Yes. I have adjusted the shoes several times. I think I am not getting sufficent voltage to thge brakes but I cant figure out why.
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rtate
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07/03/09 06:43am |
Towing
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Electric brake problems
I have a problem with weak brakes and have been trying to trouble shoot them but am not understanding what i am finding. If I activate the brakes with the lever on my Prodigy controller I show 13v on the controller and 13v at the outlet pin on the connector. If I hook it up to the trailer I get 10.5v at the brakes and checking back i get the same reading all the way back to the first connection I can check on the wire coming from the trailer harness. Is something pulling so much current that it is causing the voltage to drop? What is this telling me?
thanks
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rtate
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07/03/09 05:41am |
Towing
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RE: Equlaizer Hitch shearing hitch bolts
I have a 12K Equalizer hitch and last year noticed that the bottom bolt was bent/warped slightly after it's first year of use. I did not use a torque wrench when setting the hitch up, but made sure all the bolts were snug.
I guess I better log on to the Equalizer webpage and order a set of bolts.
zmanmike
Those supplied by Equalizer were grade eight. I replaced mine with grade nines. You can get them at a Fastenall store. They are in almost every town.
Hmmm you seem to have had your Equal-i-zer since around April of 2008 and at that time I think back then they were using grade 5 bolts and later that year changed to grade 8 with a longer shank so the threads weren't overly stressed when the shearing of the lower bolt became a problem IMHO from folks not properly torquing the bolts which allowed the hitch head to rotate on the draw bar. I got my Equal-i-zer in Oct 2007 and it had the grade 5 bolts.
Larry
Nope! had it since march 2007.
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rtate
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03/12/09 07:46pm |
Towing
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