RE: 30 amp RV and 50 amp from the post
Not to confuse the answer, but on the technical side, the adapter takes one side of the 50A and powers up both sides of your 30A. As said above, your 30A main limits your consumption and provides your protection.
Maybe you are confusing the answer.
By sides, if you mean legs, then 50 amp service has two hot legs while 30 amp service has only one hot leg.
So the adapter takes one of the two hot legs of the 50 amp supply and powers up the 1 and only hot leg of the 30 amp service.
ryoung
RE: Black tank ruptured on the 5th parked next to me
The reason they say to have the dump valve open when using any type of flush system is in case the vent system is plugged. If this is the case you definetly can rupture the tank.
But if the vent system is not plugged, and you fill the tank with water and it is able to overflow out the vent pipe, your tank should not rupture.
ryoung
RE: Help with water pump loosing prime
Assuming that you have completely expelled all the air trapped in the system by initially using the city water port, the fact that it continues to spit air when using the water pump, indicates that you have a leak on the suction side of the pump.
If you have a winterizing port on the pump, make sure the valve to it is completely shut. Air could be entering here allowing the water to drop back to the tank.
What happens if you leave the kitchen cold faucet open for a longer period of time and then shut it off?
Fill the fresh water tank completely full and see if you get the same problem.
ryoung
RE: Black tank ruptured on the 5th parked next to me
If as previously stated, that black tanks are rated around 3 psi, why then would a vent system be designed that could cause the tank to rupture by liquid filling the vent pipe?
Vent pipes not only allow gases and air to escape, but also allow any liquid overfill to escape, preventing the tank from rupturing.
The thought that liquid filling up to the top of the vent pipe will cause the tank to rupture is hogwash. I think the tanks are designed for more than 3 psi.
ryoung
RE: Lube FW Hitch??
Even though you use a lube plate, you still must lube the pin and also the internal parts of the hitch to prevent rust.
Read your manual, it should specify what, how, and when to lube.
ryoung
RE: Trailer propane quick connect for BBQ
If you have the quick disconnect fitting on the trailer it is low pressure - after the regulator. For safety reasons they don't use quick disconnect fitting on the bottle side of the regulator. Screw fittings are used because of the higher pressure.
ryoung
RE: 760 Verizon Air Card
What part of the process is slow?
Does VZAccess load quickly? How long does it take to find the tower signal? What does it find - NationalAccess or BroadbandAccess?
What is the signal strength when it does connect?
What browser and OS are you using?
ryoung
RE: Campground Hook-up
The OP is somewhat confusing with his statement, "I don't have 2 A/C units (which is why I have 50A trailer fitting)".
Anyway, if your trailer has 50 amp breakers and you are connected to a 50 amp supply at the pedestal, but use a 30 amp cord in between the two, just be sure to limit your power use.
But, on second thought, if you don't really know how much current you're drawing, it's probably not the smartest thing to do.
ryoung
RE: Mobile Suites slide gears breaking
If the dealer told you that "you have to find someone to fix the linoleum" and you say that "the slide has to be removed to fix the linoleum", THEN there is only one place that will happen. The factory.
Quit wasting your time with the dealer. Call the manufacturer.
ryoung
RE: Hey! Was that a tiny ray of light behind that black cloud?
Yes, that would be a great start. But do you ever get a hint that maybe our leadership actually wants to go in the wrong direction: (wrong for us, not necessarily wrong for their own personal gain)?
Very true!!
Special interest lobbying has control of our Congress. That's the root cause of our current financial crisis. The current health care debate is also heavy influenced by special interest.
John Q public no longer has reprentation. We just vote for them.
ryoung
RE: Bed air hitch vs pin version
Concerning the cutting wear on the king pin that you mention.
Could it be lack of lubrication?. Many think just because they use a lube plate they don't need any grease.
You still need to grease the king pin where it contacts the locking jaws.
ryoung
RE: Pricing Aged Inventory
While we love to think that a leftover RV is worth less than a brand spank'in new one off the line, fact of the matter is the unit is still new. If the dealer paid 12K for it last year, guess what?? It still cost him 12K!! While he may be more willing to take a lower margin to move an aged unit, it is unlikely that he will take a loss when he can sell it as new, finance it as new, and offer a warranty as new
You're looking at it from the dealer point of view.
The buyer needs to consider the depreciated value of a unsold 3 year old model camper versus the value of the current model year.
ryoung
RE: Always looking for feedback and constructive thoughts
I think your membership fee drives many customers away from your store. Especially the ones who don't buy enough to recoup the cost of the membership.
And its not just the cost of shipping that concerns people but the "handling" fees that are tacked on by some retailers.
Recently, I returned a purchase from a retailer that had shipped me the item via UPS for $14.00 "shipping and handling" fee.
I returned the item via UPS at a cost of $6.00. So that was $8.00 to "handle" the item. Only the cost of the item was refunded. Don't they make enough money from the purchase price to "handle" the item.
Actually "handling" fees are just a money making scheme about on the order of extended warranties. The retailer knows that there is a good chance you will return the item. If you do he makes money even though you didn't buy the product. Pretty slick, huh?
ryoung
RE: Reese 15K Pro-bang when stopping.
Another wear point on Reese brand hitches is the pivot pin area that allows the side to side movement. This is the pin you pull to remove the hitch head from the stand. I am NOT referring to the king pin.
There is plenty of metal on the hitch head that the pivot pin goes thru, but it's the head support or stand that is wobbled out by the pin. The contact area on each side of the support is very thin.
Although I kept grease on the pivot pin, I noticed after five years of use, this wear in the support stand would cause some clank when starting or stopping. You could actually see the slight movement in the pivot pin area.
It appears from the Reese website that they use the same stand and pivot mechanism for all their 15 and 16k hitches regardless of the head type, i.e two jaw or sliding bar locking mechanism.
ryoung
RE: 5TH Hitch Latch Opening By Itself
I asked the same question in a different way. I was trying to find out which one the OP was talking about. The answer I got was,"it depends on what style had more failure reports". That answer didn't tell me anything. Hope you get a real answer to your question and not some --.
Go back and reread the complete thread - carefully.
On page 2 the OP clarifies the type of hitch. Here is his post:
Yes, I should have mentioned that the Pro Series doesn't have jaws or latches, it just has a spring loaded flat bar that slides across the back side of the pin to latch it. The only thing to hold the flat bar latched is spring tension and the padlock that comes with the hitch. There is a warning label that states the lock must be in place while towing. The problem with just using a larger padlock is that it can flip up and get tangled with the pinbox on tight turns. That's why I went with the 3/8" clevis pin.
I think it is pretty clear from the above that the OP has the type of hitch that has the flat bar that goes across the back of the pin. It is definetly not the double jaw type hitch. A quick search of the Reese Products website would have confirmed this.
jdog, In your first post you asked As I understand the OP, he is talking about the single sliding bar locking model and the 2 jaw locking models are O.K Is this correct?
"and the 2 jaw locking models are O.K" to which I replied "it all depends which type of hitch you have." You evidently didn't get it.
A hitch is a hitch. There is as much brand and type loyality here concerning hitches as there is RV brands , tire brands, truck brands, etc.
If one posts about a failure of brand x or type x , then brand y or type y is the best and that's why I have it, blah, blah blah.
Have I answered your question about whether "the 2 jaw locking models are OK"?
ryoung
RE: Pin Weight, Hitch Weight, GVWR, Payload
Get ready. After the above post this thread is ready to move into another dimension.:@
Another dead horse to beat.:B
ryoung
RE: Frig problems
Had a problem with our Dometic a few weeks ago. Came back from a weekend trip, parked in the barn, plugged in, made sure it switched from gas to AC and all was right. DW went out the next evening and all the ice had melted in the freezer and everything was warm. Lights still showed it was operating on AC, no "check" light, nothing to indicate a problem.
Long story short, the tech found the GFCI tripped in the bathroom. Reset it and everything was fine. Apparently the lights on the front work off the 12V circuit for gas operation and did not go off when the 120V AC circuit tripped. Worth checking any way.
Fortunately I was already taking the rig in to get something else done, so I didn't go through all that to get a circuit breaker reset.
Maybe, I'm not following what you say, but if you hooked to shore power, and the shore power was disrupted as you say by the GFCI, then the fridge should have switched back over to propane, if the propane had not been turned off (valves shut).
If the propane was turned off after you put it in the barn, the "check" light should have come on, when the AC source was disrupted, since it could not switch back over to propane.
I would say you have a problem, other than the GFCI tripping.
ryoung
RE: Frig problems
If you have a Dometic fridge, go to the Tech Issues forum and read the sticky about the Dometic recall.
If you refridgerator is on the recall list, there is a good chance that the heater tube has ruptured and your refrigerant has leaked out.
As suggested look for the yellowish residue on the bottom back side of the unit.
ryoung
RE: A satellite/cable hook-up question
Diplexers must be used in pairs. If you use a diplexer to combine two signals to run over one wire, at some point you must use another diplexer to seperate, (notice I didn't say split) the combined signals.
ryoung
RE: How to use a TV signal splitter
Your suggestion implies that the Sat Receiver decodes a Satellite signal on "TV-Ant-In" connection also.
I don't think wa8xym is implying that. The "TV-Ant-In" connection will not decode a satelite signal regardless whether the satelite receiver is "ON" or "OFF". It is just a pass thru to the TV when the satelite receiver is "OFF"
What his is saying is to use the satelite reciever as a switch, such as your A/B would do, to select the signal going to the tv.
Most satelite recievers have 3 coax connectors on the rear. One is labeled "From Dish", another labeled "From TV Ant", and the 3rd is 'Output to TV".
When the satelite receiver is "ON" it takes the signal "From Dish", decodes it, and sends it to "Output to TV". You are now watching satelite TV.
If the satelite receiver is "OFF" it takes the signal "From TV Ant" and sends it to "Output to TV". Depending on what you have connected to "From TV Ant", either an off the air antenna or perhaps a cable tv connection, that signal will be sent to the TV when the satelite receiver is "OFF". You will now be viewing either over the air loacal channels or cable channels, depending on which of the two you have commected to "From TV Ant".
This is a feature that been on satelite receivers for quite some time.
ryoung
