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RE: Question on drawer underneath the Villa Couch/bed
Got it.
I talked with a rep at Villa and he told me to pull the drawer out and check the two roller (spring loaded) snaps on the rear of the couch. He advised that sometimes these get pushed into place as drawer is open and then they won't snap shut when drawer is pushed back into place.
Sure enough ---- someone (probably grandkids) shoved the seatbelts down on each side and into the path of the drawer and they caused the snaps to shut without the drawer in place.
I had to take the side rails off (4 screws each side) and lift the drawer up and out in order to access the bottom - once I did it took a minute to put seatbelts back where they should be and pull the roller snaps out to the ready posision.
It works as designed.
Thank you all
God Bless
Bill
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sepisllib
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09/17/09 04:36pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Bay Heaters - if yours aren't heated and they need to be
I have never heard of any roof mounted heat pump funtioning much below 40 degrees with any degree of effectiveness, but who am I to argue that.
You can always turn your furnace on manually with the thermostat. Would it be possible to splice an outlet into one of the existing ducts and stick a duct vent into the bay near the plumbing?
I have used the light bulb heat in the past as a temporary fix when the coach wasn't being used and I didnt' want to burn up all the propane to keep the tanks from freezing. If properly placed, and monitored, it works fairly well. However, I wouldn't suggest it as a permanent fix.
This is another good reason to opt. for diesel fired heat if you can afford it. It uses modest amounts of fuel compared to propane, and can be set low enough to keep the bays from freezing. Wish my coach had been equipped with it.
Well - the ones on my Monaco work extremely well then. According to my manual they are working exactly as designed and the manual even gives the low temp at which the propane heater will automatically turn on ---- and it does.
My bays are all well insulated - sealed nicely. But when the temps around here began to reach down in the teens, or lower, each and every night for a week or more ---- then things "will" begin to freeze regardless of insulation. It doesn't take much heat - just enough to maintain above freezing. The hookup/dump station, on the other hand, has lots of cracks and less than good insulation as it's nothing but a plastic box over there and that box has a removable cover to allow for the sewer hose to come in and hook up. I usually place an old towel around the cracks in that. The fresh water hose snakes in through a small opening in that area also and snaps into a quick-disconnect coupling and this opening also has air leaks.
This is why I ran a blower hose over to that area - heated air circulates all the time when the heater turns on.
I am satisfied with what I put in with one reservation - the water tank heater I will replace with a ceramic as soon as I locate one small enough to fit in the limited space. Those have a little better safety systems built into them.
God Bless
Bill
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sepisllib
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09/17/09 10:26am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Bay Heaters - if yours aren't heated and they need to be
We just use the propane furnace whenever it gets cold, and then we don't have to worry about the basement. My problem on my present coach though is that the rear furnace is the one heating the basement and the front furnace (located in a slide) is the one that runs most of the time. I just have to make sure that I set thermostats so that the rear one runs occasionally.
Ed Headington
2005 Revolution LE
2004 Tracker toad
That's great.
My coach, however, is equipped with the "heat pump" ceiling units and they work very effectively all the way down to the low 20's at which time the propane furnace will kick in instead. By that time it's too late for the bays as their only heat comes from the forced air from the propane furnace and then is only a "residual" heat. It dumps absolutely no heated air into any of the bays.
I don't know the how's and what's of the engineering on my coach, however one would think things like this would be considered in the final design.
Anyway - taken care of now.
God Bless
Bill
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sepisllib
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09/17/09 07:39am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Bay Heaters - if yours aren't heated and they need to be
I used a "ceramic" heater in the plumbing bay which has the tip-over shutoff switch along with the temperature control on the unit. There was many times I opened that bay and found the heater had cycled off and that was during the times it was in the low teens.
The other bay, water tank bay, I put a conventional heater in it and it faces toward the center of the coach along the wide part that allows the air to be pushed toward the other side. I am looking for another ceramic heater of small enough size to fit into this limites space.
I know the concerns here, and likewise I have some too. Both of the heaters are operating through the GFCI breaker and the ceramic heater inside the plumbing bay is secured so it is standing away from anything at all. It doesn't have room or opportunity to move anywhere. The water tank bay heater is secured in place and cannot move either and the forced air movement begins the moment it turns on.
The prime reason for doing this was what happened last winter. I was unable to leave here until the 8th of December due to Dr appts. I had the motorhome parked with full hookups and had the heating system on and running the entire time. The temperatures dipped down into the single numbers throughout that week and it snowed several inches. It was snowing hard the day we pulled out and it remained unusually cold until we reached Carthage Mo and the next day it caught up with us there too. I discovered the fresh water tank frozen the first week of December and it went downhill from there.
There are inherent risks associated with the use of anything electrical and the safeguards built into most of the newer items is fairly good. Installation plays an important part also.
I am not sure just when I will be able to leave this winter either and "no" I will not have frozen tanks again.
My solution
God Bless
Bill
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sepisllib
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09/17/09 05:45am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Bay Heaters - if yours aren't heated and they need to be
Another solution that I used on my 93 Winnebago is to simply put a 100W lamp in the each of the bays that contain water or waste water. As long as the bays are not open to outside air the 100W is more than enough for temps above -10. Have not tested below that.
That's a trick I used to apply to the old traffic controllers many years ago. It works, however for the bay heat I want something that isn't susceptable to just "burning out" or filament breaking loose and going out. The electric heaters make just enough noise while running that I can hear them from the bathroom. That way I know they are working.
Of course - I could install a remote sensor for each and that way I could be sure the electric heaters are working too.
God Bless
Bill
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sepisllib
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09/16/09 03:29pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Question on drawer underneath the Villa Couch/bed
I have a Villa couch that has a black metal clip that locks to a receiving lip on the face of the inside front of the couch. Sounds like you lost the clip off the drawer or the receiving lip on the couch, or both.
I have a "Black Plastic Clip" on both sides - just at the very front edge of the metal slide railing. Neither one (on either side) appear to be capable of acting as a catch.
Could you please be just a little more explicit - location and etc.
Thank you
God Bless
Bill
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sepisllib
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09/16/09 02:09pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Bay Heaters - if yours aren't heated and they need to be
Well I always considered mine to be "heated" but all I have is vents that allow furnace air into the basements. Obviously the furnace has to be cycling to have heated basements. Are you saying with that big fancy coach the mfg didn't even route furnace heat vents into the basement (standard equipment)?
No - as a matter of fact when I called and talked to the company tech he advised the "only" heat for the bays, in my coach, was in the form of "residual" heat from the forced air vents that pass through the various bays enroute to their end location up in the coach.
The problem with my coach is this; I have two roof mounted "heat pumps" that maintain the interior well down to the low 20's (exterior temps) before the propane heater will kick in. That leaves my bays at serious risks when the temps are running mid to upper 20's and the heat pumps still working away.
Some say that heat pumps won't work in the low 20's, however mine do and according to the instruction manual they are supposed to.
So ---- I installed a safety system. Now I don't worry.
God Bless
Bill
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sepisllib
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09/16/09 09:15am |
Class A Motorhomes
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Bay Heaters - if yours aren't heated and they need to be
Found out the hard way, last winter, that mine are "not" heated. Although the owners manual says they are, I found out that this is an option and apparently my coach original buyers opted out for that one.
I located a small electric heater that would serve the purpose in the water tank bay and installed it. I found one then that would work in the plumbing bay and put that one in also.
Instead of trying to do everything last winter I just ran small extension cords through the doors over to the heaters and that worked for the time being.
Just now finished up cutting two holes in the bathroom sink vanity and installing two seperate switches for the bay heaters. I installed one switch that has a pilot light that shows red when it's turning on for the water tank bay and likewise for the plumbing bay.
Had to pull the floor of the vanity up to access the pipes, air ducts and the path down through the floor into the water tank bay. Once there I accessed the outlet, located in the slide area next to the plumbing bay, and fed the 12/2 wg up to the switches and then back down to the indivisual bay outlets I installed for that purpose.
When I finished up I had room left to slip in a "spare" tube that will allow for access in the event I need to run another wire in the future.
The only issue I had was how to handle the heating issue on the opposite side of the water tanks. The waste disposal and fresh water inlet bay is right next to the water tank seperated by a plastic barrier.
I bought a "Nautalus" (sp) exhaust vent blower that feeds a 3 inch line. I had just barerly enough room to mount this little blower just above the heater and ran a flexible tube over to the waste and hookup bay. There I cut a 3 inch hole and now the warm air will flush over that area and the excess will be pulled back over the top of the water tank (fresh) and underneath the gray and black tank to be recycled by the electric heater.
When I was finished up I re-foamed the access area in the bathroom and replaced the covers and sealed it back up.
The entire project took me nearly two complete days, not all work but some time running and obtaining or locating the necessary parts.
Now - when weather dictates the need, all I have to do is flip a switch (2 really) in order to make sure the two underside bays are kept from freezing. The heaters sure worked their magic last winter, when I needed them. Just was inconvienent to run outside to plug them in as needed.
Sure would have saved a lot of work had that little "option" been checked when it was ordered though.
God Bless
Bill
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sepisllib
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09/16/09 07:55am |
Class A Motorhomes
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Question on drawer underneath the Villa Couch/bed
My bottom drawer just started to "not stay in place" when on rough roads or traveling on winding roads that cause some movement.
It is the fabric covered "Villa" brand couch and bottom drawer runs the length of couch.
I cannot locate anything that provides a way of securing it in place when closed ---- thought or ideas are welcome.
I have an e-mail quiry into the company, however they likely will take some time to get around to it.
God Bless
Bill
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sepisllib
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09/16/09 07:38am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 2001 Kountry Star class "A" (4 speed allison????)
Thanks guys.
I have relayed your comments on to my friend - I am sure he will be on alert, thanks to you, and will perform his due dilligence.
God Bless
Bill
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sepisllib
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09/07/09 12:44pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 2001 Kountry Star class "A" (4 speed allison????)
Thank you.
I agree - too many little "red" flags here to make happy.
I was wondering "if" the 4 speed allison was offered with that engine (apparently the 5.9) in that model year.
God Bless
Bill
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sepisllib
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09/07/09 09:53am |
Class A Motorhomes
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2001 Kountry Star class "A" (4 speed allison????)
Anyone know much about them?
Have a friend looking at one with 40,000 miles on it supposedly guy's father passed and he is trying to make a fast sale.
Only thing is ---- he lists it as Diesel 260 hp. LP generator and one slide. Spartan chassis.
Listed as a 4 speed Allison automatic transmission. I didn't know they still put the 4 speed in anything.
The seller changed the generator to "diesel" upon questioning about that.
Price ---- mid $20,000's and must arrange day to look at 4 days in advance and he is asking for $3,000 deposit.
Few red flags are popping up for my friend ----- input, thoughts....
God Bless
Bill
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sepisllib
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09/07/09 07:59am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Be careful if thinking of buying previous rental unit
I'd never consider a previous rental unit, motorhome OR car.
We gave our son a 1996 Mercury Sable (former rental unit). It had about 35,000 miles when we bought it and now has over 160,000. Had to replace the transmission at about 120,000 but that's pretty economical in my book.
Do you home work and any used vehicle, rental or not, can be a good purchase.
And plain old luck has a lot to do with it too. You're speaking of one car. I speak from 27 years in the industry. You were just fortunate.
Not sure I would agree.
Bought a 1995 Ford Taurus wagon in 2002 - it had 113,000 on it and had "been ridden hard and put away wet" so to speak. I drove that car, personally, until it had well over 220,000 on it with nothing more than routine maintenance - gave it to an employee who put another 70,000 on it with no trouble, and he later sold it to another friend who is still driving it and now it has 306,000 on it. Other than an encounter with a deer on two separate occasions it been a terrific car.
PS - last I knew it was still getting near 30 mpg each and every day.
God Bless
Bill
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sepisllib
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09/06/09 06:45am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: SEWER [Black water] ODOUR WHILE DRIVING
I recall reading one member had a motorhome where someone had installed a venturi vent backwards, and it rammed air down the vent, pressurized the tank and smelled bad only while driving. There was a great big long thread debating the device, wether or not it was backwards and how a venturi worked. In the end it was backwards, a new vent was installed, and life was good.
That was me and that particular thread ended up to be very informative and enlightening. Ater it was all over I learned a lot more about them.
Yes - the one I had was mounted backwards. The result was effectively "ramming" the air downward into the black tank as I was driving and that caused a very strong odor throughout the coach ----- which would fade away after I parked.
The vent in question was not a "movable" one instead was fixed and meant to be effective when on the move. It certainly was, in reverse. It obviously had been installed as an aftermarket device but someone certainly didn't install it properly.
Now - well over 12,000 happy miles later, not even a hint of the odor again. I installed one of those 360 vents that swings with the wind and is always sucking "out" from the tank.
God Bless
Bill
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sepisllib
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09/05/09 03:45am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Clearances - Exactly "what" is your rig's heigth?
Did have an interesting "point" made in this thread.
Just exactly what is the highest part of your coach?
Is it the front, the rear, the middle of your coach.
I actually don't know the answer either - but going to find out. The only thing I know for sure is I can clear 12' 6" and that was with smooth pavement (and I assume the actual measurement reflected the signs numbers).
Basically - if the signs say 12' 6" I will likely slowly travel through - however any lower means a stop and detour move.
God Bless
Bill
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sepisllib
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09/04/09 06:36pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: SEWER [Black water] ODOUR WHILE DRIVING
I recall reading one member had a motorhome where someone had installed a venturi vent backwards, and it rammed air down the vent, pressurized the tank and smelled bad only while driving. There was a great big long thread debating the device, wether or not it was backwards and how a venturi worked. In the end it was backwards, a new vent was installed, and life was good.
That was me - a very long thread that debated the intricate working of the Venturi devices. Several photos and discussions later the consensus was it had indeed been installed backwards. New one properly installed and over 6,000 miles later and not a hint of odor.
God Bless
Bill
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sepisllib
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09/03/09 06:25pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Clearances - Exactly "what" is your rig's heigth?
Wow!
What a variation in height out there!
11' 9 1/2"
12' 10"
13'
10' 6"
12' 9"
11' 3"
13' 2"
11' 3"
12' 6"
13' 3"
11' 10"
9' 7"
There are "six" of us that wouldn't have made it under the bridge I talked about.
Not knowing is the scary part though.
I measured mine while it was sitting on gravel and I am now comfortable knowing that 12' 6" overpasses will be no problem. But if I am off a couple inches and encounter one that says less than the 12' 6" guess I will go around.
God Bless
Bill
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sepisllib
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09/03/09 05:21am |
Class A Motorhomes
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Clearances - Exactly "what" is your rig's heigth?
Conversation with Monaco, some months ago, noted my coach would be safe if the clearance was 12' 6" and above.
I never bothered to actually go out and measure it - not until last week that is.
Had the occasion to be on Highway 119 in WV and came across a railroad underpass that was clearly marked 12' 6" - and I hesitated for just a bit before passing under it.
No problems, other than my antenna could be heard striking it as we passed under.
Once home I decided that it was time to actually "know" the height - so I leveled it out and did so.
My measurements came to 10' 11" to the roof line and the tallest item on the roof measured 10 1/2" so my total height was 11' 9 1/2" which provided me a good clearance factor.
Suggest that if you don't actually "know" yours, that you don't do like me and put off measuring it to the inch - just in case.
God Bless
Bill
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sepisllib
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09/02/09 09:57am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: I-64 to I-77 in West Virginia
I have driven I-75 many times and there was no comparison to the roughness of I-77 - at least in the right lanes I had to drive in. The left lane was far smoother, however restricted to autos mostly.
Insult to injury to pay additional for the trip - no thanks, there are other ways and I "shall" take them in the future trips. Where I travel to 460 runs very close and is mostly 4 lane and is a good road (far better than I-77), of course most of it is in Kentucky - could that be the reason?
It's true that the back roads are slow and curvy - but beautiful drive and well worth the trip to enjoy.
God Bless
Bill
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sepisllib
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08/30/09 03:19pm |
Roads and Routes
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RE: Planning to tow a 2009 Chevrolet Malibu LTX
I bought the 2LT 2008 Malibu and took it to Blue Ox for base plate and wiring. They installed the dash switch and everything works wonderfully well. Of course, I have the 4 speed.
Have towed it over 14,000 thus far with no issues at all.
Not sure why anyone would want a V-6 in this car. I have plenty of power for highways, driven it thousands of miles through mountains and power is way above need. Plus my drive from home to Shreveport LA last year first tank was just above 34 mpg and second one was just above 36 mpg.....
The 6 speed tranny being used now was one developed by a German engineer (hired by Ford) - through a joint effort between Ford and GM and he specificaly designed it for towing. It has a small "drip" pan located to allow the fluid to be dripped down onto the proper seals.
Enjoy your new car ---- some shortcomings in design (cup holders and etc) but great car.
God Bless
Bill
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sepisllib
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08/30/09 06:50am |
Dinghy Towing
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