I guess the GW folks didn't think we would remember all that stuff from way back then
...a BIG chunk of Alaska is in the 30s and 40s today (and, I think much of the winter). Alaska is competing with north Florida temperatures this winter. The US only makes up about <6/100s of the Earth's surface, so who cares if its colder than "normal" for 12~17 days a year :B
If you want warm, Arizona is nice right now; for the price of a couple bottles of good wine, you could fly there. And, for a few more dollars, rent a stationary RV for about $700 a month, if you shop around ;)
We look at used vehicles thus:
-treat every potential on its own merit;
-every year, every model has its own foibles, so know them in advance;
-have your truck pre-buy inspected and tested in every way possible;
-account for large replacement items (rebuilt tranny, etc) as after-buy expense
...if you find a gem at the right price, count yourself very lucky :B In all our years of hunting for the above in a truck, we've never found the "gem" I describe above :( We always live in hope!
....nice work turning chaos into an organized and infinitely safer assembly!
"where I crimped the smaller wires into those blade connectors (or whatever you call the push-on connectors)..."
...I think they are called "spade" connectors?
....I just noticed something while looking at the photos of the tub bottom on that toppled WC: the tub base (the pedestal that supports the entire camper) appears to be rectangular, and not T shaped (T shaped like our camper, and many others I have inspected = far more L/R topple stability with the rear floor substantially wider than tub at rear of camper).
I'm not going to get into T vs rectangular tub pedestal stability on such a tall and wide camper, vis COG, COM, centrifugal and perpendicular wind force(s) and tie-down points...I'll let a structural engineer chime in here....All I want to say is: thank God we have a T shaped tub pedestal, and 4 tiedowns mounted to our camper jack brackets (itself mounted to 4-inch aluminum beams (on both sides of camper).
We took out a special liability insurance rider on our camper alone (on the advice of an industry professional), in case it ever went "airborne", and through a building, or, God forbid another (occupied) vehicle.
We've had major problems with mice in the engine compartment of the 2500hd (gm). They nest in the large fuse box, eat fuse plastic(!), eat the. Black insulation skin, and rip out the glass wool to make nests throughout engine (and, inside air filter box). I used snap traps for two years, and caught many (so many, i stopped counting). And, that was during the summer/fall season (6 months). The other six months the rig was stored in a marina heated facility.
This winter, we are storing at our house outdoors. I separated truck from camper, and parked truck 40 feet from where mice invaded it (truck now out in middle of driveway, far from forest, and our dry stacked stone wall). So far, so good. Our snow hit in october this year, and no mice. I did build a custom steel piece (out of an old gm air filter mesh), and have installed it in the air filter intake to block mice (i remove it and put filter back when i start the truck). This summer, i will replace the black insulation (my dealer will do this for $237).
Research vegetable additive plastics and wire insulation. This is a major issue with at least 7 vehicle manufacturers and numerous of their models, today.
*drier sheets were absolutely useless. I tried 4 brands, and all of them were used by our mice, shredded, and made into nests! Also, the problem with volatiles like peppermint, and many other odiferous deterrents is that in open air, the effectiveness degrades, as the wind over your engine (with hood closed) or excess air movement oxidizes those agents in hours or a few days. Btw: mice create scent trails, and more aggresive mice will often encroach weaker holed up mice, and scare them off, whereby even more aggressive mice will displace those (a vicious cycle, following those scent trails throughout you engine, the scent lasting up to several years, unless you steam clean your engine...every few weeks.
.....OK, so this ShurFlo/Polar-Aire vent is now completely off the market, and no replacement parts are easily available, or available at all.
Q: which roof vent cover will fit over it ("it" being: the Polar-Aire/Comfort-Aire) ? I'd really like to hear from those who have put a MaxxAir (or similar) vent cover over top of this power vent. What concerns me is that the Polar-Aire/Confort-Aire roof-top flange has a plastic bezel, not metal (Polar-Aire calls this part: "chassis" in their replacement parts kit PDF manual). So, if the brackets on a new MaxxAire even fit at all, I'd have to drill through the Polar-Aire plastic bezel, insert the 3/16ths stainless machine screw, and apply marine adhesive to the MaxxAire bracket-- to better spread the stress across the bracket-to-plastic bezel contact real estate...
I'd rather not rip out this perfectly good roof power-vent, and spend $$$ hundreds on a replacement (the closest being a MaxxFan 4500K at $350), if I could simply throw on a MaxxAir for $28.99 (at Camping World) in 15 minutes or less. And if my existing Polar-Aire hatch cracks worse, that the heii; i'll just tape it with clear safety tape.
Anyone know where I can source a Polar-Aire roof vent lid? The model is a Polar-Aire II
The photo is a bit small, but you get the idea :)
Sure-Flow looks like it is out of the Comfort-Aire/Polar-Aire business. Polar-Aire's website has no such product...ours hasn't failed yet, but there are numerous micro-crazing (hairline fractures) on the lid (curiously, micro-crazing only on the lid's surface, not on any other part of the lid; even parts more exposed to sun on this lid have absolutely no crazing ?).
Thanks in advance,
"A Wind Chill Advisory is issued when wind chill index values will
drop to 30 or lower for at least 2 hours for the Rio Grande
Valley and 25 degrees or lower for 2 or more hours for the Rio
Grande plains and northern ranch lands... with winds of 10 mph or
As someone who lives in one of the coldest places in North America, have to chuckle at the regional "wind chill advisory" as issued for Rio Grand Valley !!!! 30F or lower for at least 2 hours...:B Not to belittle this, wind chill warnings are triggered by vary differing climate regimes, region by region.
As a comparison, wind chill advisories for our area don't even kick in till about -35C (-31F) :E And, in other parts of Quebec, north of St Lawrence River, wind chill warnings don't kick in till -50. We regularly get -30C or much worse here on our mountain for weeks at a time, in December, January and February. When the temps are 25F to 29F and the sun is out, we sit outside in the sun in front of our garage with a glass of wine, taking a tan; the garage is a very effective wind-break :B
Wiki wind chill criteria: "In Canada the warning is issued based on a regions normal climate. Thus in Southern Ontario and Atlantic Canada the warning is issued at -30/-35 and most of Canada it is issued at -45 while in Northern Manitoba and Northern Quebec and the Canadian Arctic the warning is not issued until -50"
...how 'bout a private cabin, with loft, and appliances on a rocky outcrop in casco bay, maine, inside a 600 acre park (recompence shores / wolf's neck foundation inc. near freeport, me) ?
We camp at this massive ranch/campground every year. You have canoeing, hiking, and world-class shopping and restaurants all within minutes of this site...
They have a website, and you can get a weekly deal on one of the cabins, i'm sure (with view of the atlantic).
Point senior cabin
Yeah I know, we're in it right now. We came home for Christmas and we're heading back to MB on Saturday (Jan 4), can't wait!
....hang in there Eric! Just 1.5 days to go till departure :B
Man, they have even closed down several chair lifts here in Bromont! Jeesh, can't even ski here any more when its a bit below the norm :B
I hope you're driving? Or, flying back on a private plane? Most of our friends have gotten nasty illnesses (but no flu, interestingly) flying here and there this holiday.
Much better than the snow and sub-zero in Montreal.
PB: -41F windchill in Montreal now :B T'will get MUCH colder tomorrow!
Camping in ANY locale above 0 F would feel balmy in comparison!
The only down-side to camping directly on the SC coast (for me; YMMV), would be: more persistent rains in December/January (ie. long periods of rain without sun because this region is the transition zone between arctic fronts and warm humid air from the deep south during winter) and high humidity = uncomfortable without persistent heating going on in camper.
I find personally that high humidity when temperatures are from ~~25F to ~~55F make camping very uncomfortable (humidity leaks into camper like a sieve). I would prefer camping in either temperatures between 20F and 24F and dry (humidity below 50% RH), or regions where snowbirding temperatures are always above 56F (to the mid 60sF up to low 70sF on occasion) with humidity anywhere from 50s% to ~80% RH (Savannah, GA south to St Augustine, FL in winter).
I suppose that snowbirding from Myrtle Beach to St Augustine would offer the advantage of being a far less crowded winter destination?
Just caught your thread, and new camper. Bellissimo!!!
Nice design, very well thought out indeed!! And, 10 year old?? Wow. Looks brand new.
Wishing you and family a very fun holiday, with prolific expeditioning in the New Year !:)!
Sand & Dunes
Nice. Manual labor CAN NEVER compete with CNC/robotic/computer-controlled fabrication (as Travelnutz noted: errors can't be compounded, and can't get easily through the production line flawed). Statistical printouts (feedback from the processes) give you minute-by-minute parameters, where a mis-adjusted process is immediately flagged as flawed.
Many years ago, I was involved with nuclear gauging systems, developed by a physicist at McGill University: gamma-backskatter (I had to be certified and accredited to carry nuclear materials on the road; I demo'ed them right on live production lines at medical web product manufacturers, jet fighter fuel tank manufacturers and other sheet extruded product and blown poly film lines). Waaaay back when, many manufactures could only guess at their extrusion/web/hull walls consistency, and seeing how variable the product was in real-time was a shock and a revelation (you can guess what second-by-second feedback from gauge to the process was doing to product consistency/quality, and not to mention COST SAVINGS).
My point is: in today's manufacturing milieu, anyone wanting to compete in the world must meet ISO standards, and provide statistical proof (ie. that their product coming off the line comes with a full printout summary of each roll of polyethylene sheeting, each plastic pipe, each roll medical gauze, etc,) and this isn't possible by mere guessing or by pure analog experience. The more the automated line is, the more confidence that the product will be consistently made, eliminating all the accumulated errors from human hands (humans aren't perfect, neither are automated process manufacturing lines, but errors are almost fool-proof because of feedback controls from an automated line).
Granted, truck campers must have some manual labor input, however, automating key critical components, like laminated shell components, can save the manufacturer (and, consumer) a potentially huge catastrophe (a recall; catastrophic warranty claims; untold headaches for consumer)...
Formaldehyde concentrations in the air in homes has been measured from: 0.10 to 3.7 parts per million. As an earlier poster mentions, the RVIA has set standards for their members to abide by if they want to attain certification (this included formaldehyde-containing building materials use).
I've yet to see ANY truck camper manufacturer provide a scientific measurement of formaldehyde levels in their various models (ppm formaldehyde); so, the use of the term: low formaldehyde levels in campers, etc, etc, are only a nominal value. So, do your due diligence, is all :B