....you could also download all the World's DNCs (declassified patches) from the NGA; Mexico is comprised of DNCDX014 & DNCDX013
DNC civil public domain use disclaimer: DNC is being made available to the public for GIS use only. (GIS is geographical information systems)
...he'll need a very high-resolution shoreline vector layer, too (at MSL) and port approaches, not the crappy generalized shoreline layers found in terrestrial GPS units.
I would have suggest that he use OpenCPN (a free GPLv2 chartplotter AND GPS navigation software), however, free NOAA RNC geo-referenced digital images of the charts and ENCs vector files of chart features (in S-57 format) are only available for the entire Gulf of Mexico to just north of Belize City, and not the Mexican West Coast any further south of Vicente Guerrero (Baja Norte)...eg. using OpenCPN, he could plot his own navigation (at home on-shore), and output via the Route Manager, waypoints, routes, tracks and layers to GPX format. GPX files that any cheap water-resistant GPS could ingest for water navigation (connecting the GPS to his laptop via USB or serial cable).
I cannot foresee a reason why the benchmark price of crude cannot end up in the thirty dollar range.
...I can foresee hundreds of situation where the crude benchmark can be put in the $115 bbl range in the not too distant future (and, there are hundreds of situations I cannot foresee!).
There are so many variable that drive crude, listing them would take the ~pages required for a dissertation.
Forecasting oil benchmarks out is impossible; you better hedge fast if you want to be in this business with any success.
Just one question for you: how many net crude contract bets are there currently? And, are these bets on the upside, or down side? Where are the commercial hedgers betting vis speculative bets?
....at what point will lower crude prices curtail (expensive) new drilling technology and sands extraction? Boom.
.....if prospective camper is in New Hampshire, I would contact Truck Camper Warehouse (in New Hampshire) and inquire into shipping cost.
It probably will not be cheap: $1.20 ~ $1.50+ a mile....($1.20 eg. if you have a friend that will haul just for fuel because they are in the region with a truck at the right time in your transaction).
....I counted 16 truck campers over a 5 day period, during our time in the OBX region of North Carolina, a little over a week ago. There was at least 30 truck campers (including a dozen or so manufacturer's representative rigs) at the Overland Expo East, in Asheville, NC.
Since I tend to lean a bit towards claustrophobic (LOL!) I think I'm really going to like all the windows up top, too!
....just about ~60% ~ 70% of our upper 4 sidewalls are windows (+ our glass windows: 3 of them, giving us an unprecedented 13 windows + the large door clear glass window: 14 windows). The most emotionally-sensational experiences we have ever had, was when all 10 panoramic windows are open/uncovered (even when it is raining out!), and we can see ocean/Southwest mesas/mountains/rolling fog overwhelming all our senses.
We are pop-up truck camper users (for nearly 10 years now) who really investigated buying a hard-side at year 7, and then at year 9. We re-visited numerous hard-side campers during those periods, and were fairly turned off by the TERRIBLE lack of windows, truck suspension modifications needed for the additional 2200 LBS above our current payload, the vastly added maintenance on hard-sides that have much more real estate to maintain (inducing the many additional storage compartment doors to worry about rain infiltration), and INDEED the huge hit we would take on fuel economy (we currently get a healthy 13.6 MPG with our rig; gong with a hardside, we would be lucky to get 8 MPG !).
We simply like that we can park anywhere (literally anywhere) an unloaded pick-up can park (even in a good assortment of underground parking facilities), can go literally anywhere an unloaded pick-up can go at unimproved locales of all genres, can get the unit up our driveway (try that with a hardside rig on our property situation!), and many, many other benefits. We are MUCH narrower than virtually most hardside models (exception: a handful of narrow framed campers (but why get a hardside that is the same width as our pop-up anyway??); much, much, MUCH lighter; much shorter in the height dimension (by a LONG shot), and VERY roomy on the inside (nearly 7 feet clearance when roof is up on inside; no cabinets and walls and partitions on the inside making it feel like an inner-city rooming house)...
So, concluding, WE ARE long-time pop-up owners who considered (not once, but twice) very seriously buying a hard-side, and couldn't come close to justifying a move to a hard-side. Pop-ups (modern units) are not the canvas-sided spare utility boxes they once were in a by-gone era! They are today, luxury condos with wet-baths, basements and insulated side-walls.
When we get old and gray (some say we look that way now LOL), we will KEEP our pickup (and probably our pop-up as a unique guest abode on our property, after the $$$ rebuild I have just done on the camper), and move to a sleek and compact diesel B+ (the same footprint, perhaps 2 feet longer than our current rig: still smaller in width AND length than a behemoth hardside truck camper rig), and go tamer on the unimproved expeditions front.
Discussion: there was only one truck camper (a large hardside) that we have ever gloated over, because the rear of this camper had complete wrap-around windows at it's rear wall, with rear dinette/ AND kitchen), owned by the founders of Truck Camper Magazine. The only issue: it is no longer manufactured, and it would be way too large/heavy for our genre of use.
Good luck in deciding!
Thanks, Sue, for the detailed photos on those eyebrow drip caps.
found a website that sells a wide variety of "eyebrow drip cap" lengths, here--> These are bake-painted white already.
These drip caps were made by Hehr in the old days (model 403). The website instructs on sizing the correct length...
Hi PJay 9:
I've had a custom cut clear 8mil thick plastic tarp over the hatch since before this incessant rain has been falling. The plastic sheet is well taped on via house wrap tape (red). I just checked the hatch minutes ago: completely dry.
Thanks for the hatch links! Excellent assortment. My hatch size (propane) is: Door 13.5 x 13.5 inches; outside frame dimensions: 15.5 x 15.5 inches. It is raining too hard at the moment to measure the inside frame dimensions.
....just to clarify: IF/when water pools in my propane and battery compartment now (after all the forward and containment sealing I'd already done in August), it will not do any damage to our camper; there is NO WAY the water can escape into the camper structure. It will just sit there in a kind of swimming pool, sloshing around. I can see under the propane container for about 10 inches, looking from inside the camper cupboard, and it is not leaking.
It s just a PITA to clean up, and will cause the horizontal propane tank to rust prematurely eventually.
I examined the 2 cut-outs at bottom frame of propane hatch (with a magnifying glass), and they appear to be designed into the frame by the access hatch manufacturer. One edit: this, I believe, is where the heavy propane would seep out if leak should occur...
If they were cut by the camper manufacturer, all I could say is: they must have used a laser cutting device, because I can't discern any striations / saw marks whatsoever (and the cut is absolutely true and appears to be molded)...
I really like that eyebrow channel! This is what i may try. I will mount with enough clearance to allow hatch to open sufficiently to extract propane tank, but low enough to shed water cascading down side of camper. I may install a pan drain into the steel containment box, however, this could be problematic because the containment metal floor is severely deformed where the horizontal tank feet rest on it!
The deformity is vertically located INSIDE our cupboard where the water in the compartment pools, where drilling a drain would be impossible. Have to think this drain approach out some more....
Canting camper to propane hatch side:
I've already tried this (on our return, 5 days ago). No good. Containment floor filled with water.
There's a shield above the top hinge....
....the shield thing: I recall that aluminum doors on RVs and homes (many years ago) had a neat little shield that cups the top of door frame. Hmmmm? This could work for our propane door providing an appropriate width is available....
I've got to check out for a while....will be back at this Forum tomorrow. Thanks for all the ideas.
...all been tried (read my post on Page 1 near the bottom, outlining all my mitigation attempts).
That looks interesting, and has several well thought-out anti-infiltration / exit features. I think if this style of hatch is non radius (non rounded corners), a size may be available to fit perhaps at least 1 opening in our camper...hmmmm?
The only thing worrying me is: I would have to saw into my composite walls to square out the 4 radius corners (this worries me a bit).
I am sure there are thousands of doors this style
....actually, at AVE 3 per RV (5th Wheels, tow trailers, truck campers, Class A, B, B+, C, Super C, tent trailers), there are MILLIONS of these hatches on RVs throughout North America (since perhaps the 1970s till 2014)...
Our propane hatch has the double-cut bottom flange (I think the manufacturer of the hatch cuts these, not Outfitter?). The first thing did was dam the 2 cut-outs, with 3M closed-cell foam strips, backed by house-wrap tape (this tape is indestructible by weather/water).
This did absolutely nothing against water infil. It actually made the problem worse. Then, I drilled 2 large weeping holes along bottom of hinged door (water poured out of the door frame onto my expensive Bosche drill when I pierced the 1st hole!). 2 holes did nothing WITH the foam dams in place. Took dams off, still water came in. Note: the hinged door frame with rubber spacer is HIGHER than the mating frame-stopper (the mating frame-stopper has that built in rubber gasket, but think about it: f the door weeping holes do not drain the frame filling water quick enough, the water will overspill totally over the frame flange into the compartment VERY EFFICIENTLY :E ).
Then, drilled 3 holes in the bottom of door; useless. Water still coming in. I then put an after-market gasket all around the radius door frame. This did nothing to stop the water infil. Then, I sealed all the horizontal air vents in the hatch door: no good. Still water pouring in. Hey Zeus...what the h*ll do I do next? I inspect the hatch door hinges, and caulk the end flanges (2 on each hatch door). Nada. Water pouring in. Now I'm getting really pi**ed off. I examine the door hinges and visually reverse-engineer them.....these hinges are actually PERFECT eaves troughs, effectively funneling water INTO the containment compartments (whether they are top mounted or side mounted, doesn't make a hill of beans of difference how they are mounted)! Jeez. So, I now cant the camper towards the rear and propane door side slightly (taking advantage of rain shielding and roof drip)..I almost forgot: I also caulked all around the exterior door panels where they mate to door frame early on..then:
.....so, I pack large bath towels in both compartments lining the floors, and trim large sheets of vapor barrier (clear poly 8mm thick) over both hatches permanently (I now carry these poly tarps and a roll of house wrap tape with me at all times in camper in case of rain!)...
I'm now interested in tearing this******out of the walls of the camper and installing some yet-to-be-discovered vastly superior hatch door system.
....one thing I forgot to mention: early on when I 1st found water in the battery and propane containment canisters, I thought about why I had not ever seen water in these places before.
I came to the conclusion that a) we were only camping ~3 times a season max since 2010, so never had a need to look in/open the hatch but for 3 times a year; b) the water that was flooding in probably drained right into the camper structure and disappeared perhaps over a week or two.
So, a thought would be: even though we may not find water in these containment centers today, water could be getting in there during rains, draining quickly into your camper structure, and the left over film of water on canister floor is drying very rapidly (between rains)....hmmmm?
Bob: watering systems blast water almost straight up; that I'd be worried about :B
Nice work. I've thought about re-bedding some of the exterior fixtures using windshield mounting butyl, however, worry about removing the fixture when the housing would need to be replaced.
The RV caulking strips seem to dry out too quickly, because the rolls they come in have exposed edges when factory packed.
I would love to find high quality properly designed RV hatches and radius frames that will directly fit the current frame-ins in our camper walls. Anyone have any names, part numbers, anecdotes ?
Follow-up to our camper rot / water infil issues:
Just a heads-up to anyone owning a truck camper with exterior hatches (I suspect that this would be everyone with a camper):
-the style of hatch in the photo (this is ours to the propane containment) may be a persistent leaker when you have rains:
This is the hatch (and, our battery hatch: same style) that allowed water to leak into our Outfitter; water infil that nearly destroyed our camper.
History: I tried every mitigation I could devise (drilling holes at bottom of hatch door; placing a new rubber gasket; blocking the vent slots (not a good idea, but in desperation, I had to try it), re-seating and caulking the entire perimeter of the radius frames FROM THE INSIDE OF THE CONTAINMENT COMPARTMENT; and numerous other ideas, like canting camper to the propane hatch side and battery hatch side; etc, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc) and NOTHING I implemented will keep water out of my propane compartment or battery compartment. They flood inside compartments at every rain lasting more than about 45 minutes. Just this morning, I shoveled half an inch of rain water out of my large propane compartment (THANK GOD I had sealed all the seams of my battery and propane compartment containment containers, turning them nto swimming pools, or all my work removing rotted wood from and repairing this camper would have been for not !).
WATCH OUT and PAY ATTENTION to what hatch frame and door system you get on your new purchase, and do some serious investigating into your current hatch doors (all of them), or you could lose your camper to extensive water leaking and resultant catastrophic rot.
The problem appears to be:
1) door frame filling with water and over-spilling into compartment at bottom (drilling holes in door frame does not work effectively!);
2) the long/large hatch hinge extremely poorly designed, allows water to pour into the compartments (absolutely no mitigation possible on this frame hinge design!).
I have been relegated to tarping both hatches permanently (both when camper is in the immobile state in driveway AND camping). And, I pack huge bath towels into the compartments when driving if encountering rain.