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RE: Problem with traction control 2011 F350
I did read it. Didn't say much.
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slacker cruster
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03/21/13 01:24pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Problem with traction control 2011 F350
Get out your owners manual. I haven't seen a truck with a traction control knob, it's always a button. Traction control is always on unless you turn it off each time you start the truck. The flashing symbol means that a wheel has slipped and the truck is braking and/or reducing engine power to prevent a slide. The truck uses existing wheel speed sensors and anti lock brakes as well as a computer to control traction. There are no systems to wear out by not using. Are you sure you're not talking about your 4x4 knob?
Knob is for the rear traction. 4 x 4 is with the hubs and a lever. Problem happens when the truck is not in 4 x 4.
Gotcha. You are confusing the "electronic locking rear differential" with the "traction control". Traction control is a push button on the right side of the dash that must be held for like 5 seconds to be disabled. Every time you slip a tire the light on the dash will flash, cut engine power, and apply the brakes to maintain control of the truck. Traction control is a good thing and should always be on, unless you are plowing through a foot of snow or mud, in which case you want to be able to spin your tires and maintain momentum. The rear diff lock knob on the other hand should only be used in off road type situations.
It's a good thing that Ford automatically unlocks the rear diff above 25mph or they'd have a whole bunch of lawsuits on their hands from people spinning out of control in a snow storm on the freeway because they had their locker engaged.
OK, thanks for the correction. I figured if I was on dry road, no need to keep traction control on all the time. Mine is engaged by twisting the knob just right of steering wheel.
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slacker cruster
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03/21/13 06:11am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Problem with traction control 2011 F350
Just happened first time this week, will check with the dealer if it persists. Hassle going to the dealer, so I try to avoid.
Wondered if this happens a lot and was something I should worry about. It did go away after I parked and restarted.
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slacker cruster
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03/18/13 08:24pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Problem with traction control 2011 F350
Get out your owners manual. I haven't seen a truck with a traction control knob, it's always a button. Traction control is always on unless you turn it off each time you start the truck. The flashing symbol means that a wheel has slipped and the truck is braking and/or reducing engine power to prevent a slide. The truck uses existing wheel speed sensors and anti lock brakes as well as a computer to control traction. There are no systems to wear out by not using. Are you sure you're not talking about your 4x4 knob?
Knob is for the rear traction. 4 x 4 is with the hubs and a lever. Problem happens when the truck is not in 4 x 4.
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slacker cruster
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03/18/13 08:21pm |
Truck Campers
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Problem with traction control 2011 F350
My traction control light keeps flashing on and off. The control knob is set to off. I seldom use it, maybe once or twice in the winter.
Wonder if lack of use is causing an issue? Should I be using it more often to keep it working good? What does it mean when it flashes off and on and it is turned off? It works fine when it is turned on. The light flashing on and off is the only issue.
Thanks
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slacker cruster
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03/18/13 08:01am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Urban boondocking in or around D.C.
Thanks GM & JM!
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slacker cruster
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11/09/12 06:01am |
Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
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RE: Urban boondocking in or around D.C.
OK, will work on Metro side of things. Thanks for all the details.
What is the groups consensus on the safety for tourists day or night where the main monuments are? I'm wondering whether to bring a cheap camera or my good one?
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slacker cruster
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11/07/12 05:51pm |
Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
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RE: How many TCers here?
205
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slacker cruster
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11/07/12 01:48pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Urban boondocking in or around D.C.
For Plan B, there is Green Belt near the 495/95 junction. At only $16/night, it seems like a great alternative to boon docking. I think this will be my choice as I will sleep better at night not worrying about the local undesirables or being robbed.
That would be a MUCH saner option! UMD Metro is closer to
there, I think. It isn't as close to DC as they want to be, but
taking Metro into DC sure would be nicer than having to do
the drive and then finding parking for a TC.
I'd make that Plan A.
Never having been there, am worried about parking.
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slacker cruster
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11/07/12 01:45pm |
Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
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RE: Urban boondocking in or around D.C.
For Plan B, there is Green Belt near the 495/95 junction. At only $16/night, it seems like a great alternative to boon docking. I think this will be my choice as I will sleep better at night not worrying about the local undesirables or being rousted.
If you need to, from research, I believe it's a simple walk/bus to the Metro or about a 2 mile bike ride.
Sounds good. What about driving the TC to DC each day from the Green Belt? Is it going to be tough to park with it with security isues?
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slacker cruster
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11/07/12 01:43pm |
Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
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RE: Urban boondocking in or around D.C.
Thanks for the help. Yep, got a TC.
What about large motel parking lots? WM's casinos? Any prospects like that half ass close to DC? (25 - 30 miles)
Liked the idea of the park and ride lots. But don't know how they work. I like to have a plan B, c and D if they are a bust.
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slacker cruster
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11/06/12 06:37pm |
Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
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Urban boondocking in or around D.C.
What are the urban boondocking possibilities for a visit to D.C.
If not actually in D.C., then something close.
Thanks
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slacker cruster
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11/06/12 04:38pm |
Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
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RE: Need photo / diagram for fridge blow out shield.
Thanks for the feedback.
Yep, if I drive over 45mph or so blows out. Rather run on 12 while driving, but in hot weather kills the RV battery. Truck can't keep it charged even if driving for 6 or 7 hours.
Other option is I may carry a little gen to charge my batt. Now I see the wisdom in having 2 batts in the TC. With 2 batts this may not have been an issue.
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slacker cruster
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08/09/12 07:24am |
Truck Campers
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Need photo / diagram for fridge blow out shield.
For running the fridge on propane while driving. I need a photo / diagram for where to install it and to show construction of the blow out shield.
My dealer says he does not sell anything like this. I searched the web and saw references to it - but no pictures.
Can anyone help with illustrations?
Or at least descriptions of which fridge vents to block? Can something like duct tape be used inside the cover to block the vents.
Thanks
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slacker cruster
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08/05/12 12:42pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Battery keeps dying when fridge is on 12v?
Thanks kohldad
Will check out the volts. I think it is a Dometic. But not sure. It is a Northstar 2011 model TC.
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slacker cruster
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07/26/12 07:45am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Battery keeps dying when fridge is on 12v?
The stock alternator on my 2011 F350 is rated at 157 amps. I had no problems from my latest trip running the fridge on 12v when traveling. We had a 7 hour drive back home with temps between 92 to 110 and the fridge was able to keep ice cubes frozen and everything else nice and cold. TC batteries were always fully changed at every place we stayed. The only problem I had was remembering to switch to propane when we stop somewhere for a long time. I would check to see if you have the correct sized wiring, your trucks charging system is more than capable.
I have the same results as you. I tried running on propane and mine wont stay lit. I think sometimes it's wind (going down the highway) and other times it's going offroad and having the truck and camper rocking, twisting, and essentially being far from level most of the time until arriving at a camp site.
Have an 06 Ford diesel with factory dual alternators. Have 4 guage pos and neg wires from the trucks drivers side batt, through the circut breaker and batt isolator, and all the way back to where the lance wiring harness connects (which is 8ga for the charge and ground wires. All connections are soldered and heatshrinked. I consistently have 13.6VDC at the camper battery. Recently ran for 4 hours from the Bay Area to 8,400 ft in the Sierras and when I arrived and switched to propane the fridge was ice cold, the battery was still charged and then lasted 3 days of camping without dropping from the "Good" level on the monitor.
My Aliner fridge would stay lit at low speeds under 45-50. At higher speeds it blew out a lot.
Looks like Arctic Fox's 2 battery setup would be very useful to us single battery TC'ers that are having probelms.
Guess in 90 degree weather I may have to carry a little gen with me to charge up when parked. I only boondock, so no place to plug into 110v.
...and thanks for ALL the feedback!
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slacker cruster
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07/23/12 06:53am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Battery keeps dying when fridge is on 12v?
I have been running fridge on battery only when I drive. And maybe for 10 - 15 min or so while at a rest stop. Even when driving long distances the truck's charger does not keep up with the fridges drain on the RV battery. Battery got down to 9.8v and fridge would not run. (Even ceiling fan had a hard time running!)
Should a F350 keep up with running a fridge all day on battery power while driving for 6 or 7 hours in 100 degree heat?
I had no problem in winter when outside temps were down in the 30's. But fridge was also kept at a slightly lower temp too.
Battery is about 1-1/2 years old. Water level is good. Charged fully before I took off. Truck charger working fine.
Well, several have chimed in, my turn.
I'm an electrical engineer. I'll give you my 2 cents worth. 3-way fridges on 12v draw 20-25amps(depending on model).
Charge circuits on trucks range from 20-30amps, depending again on the make/model of your truck.
Even if you have one of the trucks with a 30amp camper charge circuit, you're going through factory connections, truck bed connector, camper connector, wires in the truck, pigtail, wires in the camper, etc.... If they're not all in PERFECT condition, you will loose amperage.
One corroded hot or ground line/connection somewhere, and you will not charge as fast as you're discharging.
Or worse, you have a 25amp draw fridge, a truck with a 20amp charge circuit, and that charge circuit has bad connections. That will kill the camper batteries real quick.
I never used my 12v to run my Aliner fridge. I had a cheap 4 pole pigtail on it and could not use the 12V portion.
When I got the TC and a proper electrical setup I was happy I could now run the fridge on 12v while driving and not propane.
To find out it is engineered half-ass is a real letdown.
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slacker cruster
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07/23/12 06:51am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Battery keeps dying when fridge is on 12v?
The problems associated with running on 12v out weigh the perception that it is safer than running on propane, IMO. About the only time running on propane presents a potential hazard is when refueling during hot and still conditions at a gas station. Personally I think you run a greater risk of ruining your batteries when they can't get fully recharged or when you forget to switch back to propane when stopped and run them flat. I've never run on DC intentionally in 6 1/2 years and consider it an emergency back up of limited duration, like if the burner should blow out or you run out of propane. I understand the safety concern, but think it is overstated and doubt you will ever get satisfactory performance from 12v during summer conditions. The above is my opinion and what I do, doesn't mean I'm right.
Yep, lots of debate about open flame propane and gas refueling. I did it for years with Aliner. I think it is safe-ish as long as the propane light is on the opposite side of the gasoline fill. At least I never got blown up from that recipe.
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slacker cruster
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07/23/12 06:45am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Battery keeps dying when fridge is on 12v?
My local lance dealer says to run on propane as much as you can. When it gets hot out like above 90, even with the 8 gauge wire the fridge will not keep up. I couldn't get my fridge to stay on with propane because of the wind when driving. They gave me a great little kit that solved the problem completly. Basically the kit shields the burner and part of the venting on the fridge. I no longer use the DC, I just run on propane 24/7. I have known these folks for years and trust there advice, 12 volt is not a great way to run a fridge. I have the 8 gauge wire and it just doesn't do the job of propane.
Nice idea!
I had trouble with running on gas in my Aliner. Same wind blow out issue. Never tried it with the TC. Who sells the kit? Will it work on a Northstar?
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slacker cruster
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07/23/12 06:42am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Battery keeps dying when fridge is on 12v?
Mine's not charging either, period, so this discussion is pretty useful to me!
The charge line at the harness is hot when the truck is running but I went out and looked for the fuse anyway. The fuse is in place from the factory for my '12 f350 but maybe it was my peculiar set of options that put it there. I dunno.
Sounds like Slacker's charged fine when it wasn't having to work as hard, so I bet it's hot. Mine? Wish it was the fuse. Now I have to mess with the darn camper. :)
Yep that sums it up. I am not sure, but I think when the truck is on it may deliver 13v to the TC. But I can't rememeber for sure. It may be in the 12V charging area. Will have to check that out.
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slacker cruster
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07/23/12 06:40am |
Truck Campers
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