I went from a 2006 F250 Diesel to a 2012 F250 Gas. I was delighted to be able to hear the radio again at any highway speed, not feel guilty firing up the truck in a crowded campground early in the morning, glad not to get that diesel smell all over my shoes (doesn't evaporate away like gas does), and a whole lot of other reasons.
With both, I was pulling an 11K+ 5th wheel trailer. With the 2012 I've pulled the trailer from Indiana to the East Coast twice, to San Francisco once, and to Florida twice. Lots of mountains along the way. Yes, the diesel gave better mileage, but the per gallon cost difference virtually wiped out the actual out-of-pocket cost difference. Anyway, I'm glad to be back to gas.
But that's just my opinion.
The heat that a dehumidifier puts out is a plus, as I see it. The process of condensing water on a surface generates heat. Of course, this isn't so welcome in summer.
Condensing water (into rain) is the power source in hurricanes, tornado's and your everyday thunderstorm . . . but on a very large scale.
In my opinion, the most important criteria in the selection of a dehumidifier is the noise level. Consumer Reports once recommended a LG model as being very quiet. I bought one, and took it right back. It was very irritating. The lower rated Frigidaire model proved to be very quiet. One never knows until one tries something out . . . and in this case, who knows? Maybe it was something to do with my hearing. Or a 'bad' LG compared to a 'good' Frigidaire.
The problem isn't just the moisture on the windows. There may be 'sweating' going on inside cupboards and closets on outside walls. And there can be moisture forming on the floor, inside or below the carpet.
Moisture in a trailer or MH is a real problem in cold weather. I think a dehumidifier is a very good idea. It also helps out in the other seasons, especially in the Spring on those warm but very humid days.
But opening up cupboard doors and circulating air to warm outside walls and ceiling/floor surfaces can help: if you get the surfaces above the dew point, then moisture won't condense.
I have the 6.2, 20k miles mostly towing. I think it was doing its job, Rascal. Time for the application of a little brakes. I pulled from Indiana to San Francisco by way of Denver and Tahoe, and ran into this many times. Too steep and too much weight for tow/haul to do the job all by itself.
It is easy to see the locking 'bar' inside the hitch, which when viewed is 'behind' the pin, closest to me. I note this as I insert the 7-pin connector inside the truck bed. So I see no need to use a pull test, as I have visually confirmed that the hitch is secured.
The most recent Trailer Life magazine features the installation. Just skimmed it, as it doesn't interest me. Looks like an all day installation. I believe there are three models with different amp loads, one of which I believe was for 30 amp, and the other two for 50 amp.
I think I can deal with portable heaters for many, many years before I will have invested as much effort as installing one of these. And then there is the cost . . . Plus, if you use portable units, you can 'stage' things such that the electric units carry most of the load, and the furnace kicks in only when the temp drops a couple degrees below where the electric units poop out. And even then, the electric units will continue to contribute to the heating needs. And maybe help keep the heat more even from end to end of the trailer, as the wind, etc has its effect on the trailer.
That Rand McNally GPS app looks nice. If I was thinking about a dedicated GPS, I'd sooner spend $99 on this. But I'm not.
And there are so many other options, for free or not very much money. I've gotten along for three/four years pulling my trailer without a GPS that shows height restrictions, propane on board, etc, guess I'll keep going with what I've already downloaded to my iPad. But if it was, say, $25 or less . . .
My favorite ipad GPS is MotionX, and yes, it wants a connection to the internet. Being cheap, I use my iphone as a hot spot to accomplish this.
But there are other Apps that don't need an internet connection at all, they completely load into memory. A few are: Google Maps, Apple Maps, and CoPilot GPS. All three do a good job. I like CoPilot best of those three. There are others, too.
But you still need a method of getting the GPS location. There are physical add-on devices, as someone mentioned earlier. Or an ipad that has the capability to connect to AT&T, Verizon, etc. have the capability built-in. Or someone else mentioned something about a bluetooth connection to the phone, I haven't tried it, as I don't need it.
If you were to see how nice any of the above look on an ipad, you'd never want a dedicated GPS again. I'm using mine to velcro my ipad to the front of the GPS, so that I have a mount.
I agree with Atom Ant. I've had an Iphone for at least 4 years, and have never wanted to use it as a GPS. Too small. A mini ipad would be fine, though.
Yeah, I remember hearing that there are plug-in units that can make a non-GPS ipad into a GPS unit, but when you are buying one from scratch, it is about the same cost, give or take, to get it built-in.
I have two Magellans, and they are both miserable excuses for GPS. Their map updates are really bad.
I just got an iPad, and there are many nice GPS apps. Just used a couple on a trip to Wisconsin and back: just about 1000 miles. So much information, and so nice a detailed display!
So I suggest you take the money not spent on a dedicated GPS, and you are well on your way. BTW, you need to get a model that CAN connect to AT&T or Verizon, but you don't have to actually take their service. That's the only way to get a built-in GPS chip.
Google Maps is nice, Apple Maps not bad, CoPilot and MotionX are very nice. All are free.
A heated floor pad sounds like a good, practical idea. I'm going to Google it.
I put heated elements under a ceramic floor in a bathroom a few years ago, and I loved it. No, it doesn't heat the room as such, but it is surprising how a little heat in the floor makes the room feel warmer. And the power draw was reasonable: I think around 150 watts, and it maybe was 'on' half the time, or less.
That house had a concrete floor rather than what I have now: a crawl space. The floor got SO COLD in winter, and the room was in a corner of the house. On my last trip out west a few weeks ago with a 5th wheel, we hit temps around freezing at night. I thought then, how nice a warmed floor would feel . . .
Under-sink valve: they are really cheap valves, use only a little piece of rubber that resembles a chunk of inner tube to keep fumes from rising into the trailer. Unfortunately, the flap is fighting gravity along with air currents.
I replaced mine with a higher quality unit that I got at Menards. But the same or similar valves are available from Amazon. Expect to spend about $20, not the cheap replacement that costs around $5. Or expect to get recurrences from time to time for no apparent reason.
On the other hand, I highly recommend a dehumidifier. But it should have a drain so that there won't be any filled tank issue. Nothing can do the job like a dehumidifier, and if there was power available where I park my trailer, I'd use one.
It won't be that expensive to run; the inside of a trailer/MH is only a few hundred square feet.
I have two Magellans, one a 7" and one 5". I regret them both.
Too many mis-directions, too many crazy, out-of-the-way routes, and despite a recent update, they STILL don't have the long-completed I-69 road in Indiana and they STILL don't have the subdivision I live in, which has been here at least 7 years. Every single mapping program I've looked at on my Kindle or iPhone has both.
Map updates are useless if they don't actually update the maps.
I started out with a macerator. I liked it OK, but it is slower and tedious to use. And when it is really hot outside, you may need to let the unit cool off half way through.
It's in the front storage area of my 5th. Haven't used it in two years. Regular drainage is so much faster and therefore more thorough. But if you need to drain uphill . . . it can't be beat.