Old Buiscuit, I think you're right. I bet that switch isn't to warm the waste tanks, but rather, for the hot water tank. I'll have to confirm it the next time we head out, but this makes sense.
Well, thanks. Every bit of info is helpful. The switch is on the lower left, and it is the only switch. I'll look, but I don't think there is a gas switch anywhere inside. Other than lights, slide outs, canopy, the only two switches are for the water pump and heating the tanks during cold weather.
I bought it new and got it very late in the year 2009.
For now, I can continue to unplug a lead to the gas valve, I guess.
I only see one switch. It's a 'rocker' switch.
And the wire I pulled off was attached to what appears to be some kind of a solenoid, which I imagine is there to start/stop gas flow. There are two wires, which have two connectors each, attached to what looks like two identical solenoids or valves, side by side. There are no other visible wires or switches.
I have a 2010 5th wheel, made by Keystone.
I turned off the water heater switch earlier this year because I drained the tank and didn't want to burn out the electric heater. I assumed the same switch would turn off any possibility of the gas heater, too, but on my way back from the Gulf, I walked by the trailer at some point and discovered the gas heat was running. On an empty tank.
Maybe that has happened before and I didn't notice it. I pulled a wire loose and that stopped it instantly. I recently de-winterized it and did a shakedown local camping trip; hooked up the wire and turned the switch back on. The heater worked fine on electricity.
SO . . . the question: should the gas heater work when the switch is turned off? Any thought about what is wrong, if anything?
(I should note that the sheet metal around the water heater was replaced last fall, following a tire blow-up, so the heater may have been removed during replacement.)
For whatever it's worth, I have a Curt hitch in a short bed F250. Bought it late 2009, I've been all over the US with it, approx. 35,000 miles to every corner of the country. In the first year I used the slider a couple times. I've never used it in the last 4-5 years. In retrospect, I really didn't need it the first couple of times, either, it was a confidence issue.
So . . . I've read many posts about the Bilstein shocks and how good they are. But I had so few miles on my truck, I just couldn't get motivated to change the OEM shocks out. And I was reluctant to spend the money, fearing that it would seem wasted. This past winter, driving on and over snow and frozen slush finally gave me the motivation.
So I ordered them from Amazon, about $310 for a set of four for my 2012 King Ranch, and I must say: I should have done it a long time ago. Just adding my affirmation to what others have said, the improved ride is very noticeable. It's still a truck, but it doesn't lean in corners like it used to, it doesn't jerk me from side to side, and the unloaded back end doesn't hop all over the place as I go over potholes, etc.
I should have listened and done it long ago. Gotta remember: I've never gotten bad advice on this forum. BTW, my truck had only 26K miles on it. I may start putting more miles on it now. I used to go out of my way not to run errands locally with it because of the miserable ride, but it's quite tolerable, now.
I've been all over the country with Co-Pilot. It's better than any stand-alone GPS I've seen, regular map updates (free), quick and EASY. And for anyone thinking about buying a GPS device: the development funds are going into smart phones and pads, not GPS devices. I like Drive Motion-X best, but it is very data intensive, whereas Co-Pilot doesn't use data as you travel. Both are free.
Many of the other Apps mentioned are very good. I also like GS Camping (Good Sam), RV Parks, Park Finder, World Atlas.
For finding nearby places to eat, off the Interstate: Urban Spoon, Yelp.
Handy little level: DualLevel.
Entertainment: Netflix, Fandango, Amazon Instant Video, TV Guide, Flipboard, and of course Kindle.
Saving misc data and passwords: 1Password. It's free, and data is shared between an iphone and an ipad automatically. This is true also of Evernote, but it doesn't seem to offer the excellent password protection of 1Password. Evernote is great, though, for organizing data, like I have info on campgrounds and favorite sites, license plate numbers and renewal dates, non-critical passwords, favorite authors, a history of vacations taken and suggestions for the future, lists of things like what services to turn off when leaving for a trip and where/how to do it, departure checklist . . . you name it.
I'm skeptical. I wonder what the BTU output of a little trailer water heater actually is. Not that great, would be my guess, like 15 or 20 Amps at 120 volts. What is the breaker size for heating water with electricity I wonder?
I remember when one of my HVAC managers got the idea of heating a home with in-floor hot water using two full-size (40 gallon) electric water heaters. It couldn't do the job, because the BTU capability was only, if I remember right, 10,000 BTU's each, and 20,000 BTU's couldn't do the job when it got really cold.
If the water heater in a trailer is 15 amps, then it could produce about 5,000 BTU's, and if run on gas, it isn't likely to be much greater than the heat output from electricity.
So: if you can only get 5,000 or so BTU's out of a water heater, then you'll need further heat sources when it gets cold. My 30-ft 5th wheel needs TWO 5000 BTU space heaters when it gets down to about 30 degrees. (I can't stand my furnace, and haven't used it even once since verifying that it worked, 5 years ago.)
One final point: running the H out of your water heater may lead to scaling, carboning, oxidizing, etc and otherwise shortening the life of the heater. Trailer water heaters are quite expensive. For that reason alone, I'd opt for a couple electric space heaters.
i have a 2010 Mountaineer RK, officially a 29.5 ft. We've pulled it well over 30,000 miles and are on our third set of tires.
We've been quite happy with it. Only minor issues. The items you mentioned: no steps from bedroom to bathroom. Good storage, in fact, far more than we need or use. But then, we've never been on more than a 2-month trip, we don't 'live' in it.
If I were buying a new trailer, I'd probably get the same thing, only newer, of course.
BTW: the only complaints I've heard about a RK is dishes falling out of the cupboard. It happened to us. But you learn, and adapt. We put a stretchy strap over the handles on the cupboard over the sink, which prevents the problems we experienced with things falling on the floor on really rough roads. It only happened a couple of times, but who wants that? And we decided using glass was impractical, other than containers for storing/reheating food (which are practically indestructible).
As was said earler: dehumidification, and/or venting.
Keeping the air in the trailer moving (fans) will help because the moving air keeps the exterior surfaces warmer, so less reason to form condensation.
Get a humidity gage. Have some idea of just how big your problem really is. They are cheap and easily found at Target, Walmart, lumber yards, etc.
BTW, it comes up every year: some people try to heat with propane heaters inside a trailer. The result will be lots of moisture. It isn't a good idea, just like 'ventless' fireplaces aren't a very good idea for more than occasional use. Use the furnace (combustion fumes are vented outside with the created moisture) or electric heaters.
Reasons I decided on a 5th wheel:
You can take a truck anywhere to get it repaired, quickly and cheaply. Try that with a motor home.
New truck (nice one, Ford King Ranch, gas) and a 30 ft. 5th wheel is about $80-90K. That will maybe buy a moderately priced MH, but then you need a tow-behind to get around town. So the 5th/truck is likely to be cheaper to buy.
5th wheel slides extend much farther, as no one is going to be walking about while traveling. That, plus no engine/cab area, means more space. Either offers a traveling bathroom and refrigerator.
I get 8.5 to 9 mpg even with gas when towing. Ask the MH operators how that compares. Diesel would probably be around 10 to 11.
More storage with a 5th.
I'm no expert. I've always stored with slides in. I have slide covers, and I think extended effects of wind, rain and dirt on the covers would be a negative. I also think the sealing of the trailer is superior with the slides closed (keep out bugs, hornets, etc.)
But I DO open the vent in the bathroom (it has an after-market cover; can't think of the brand at the moment) because I think it is important to encourage the inside of the trailer temp to be as similar to the outside as feasible to minimize or eliminate condensation.
No, Allworth, no one put a gun to my head. But when you are stuck with no (second) spare, hundreds of miles from home, in an area with few alternatives and minimal phone service, with plans and schedules and people counting on you . . . sometimes you need to take the expedient route.
I have written a few times about the joys of towing with gas, but that isn't my intent this time. It's really to ask a question I haven't seen discussed here that has been on my mind . . .
Others have described the transmission temps they experience on this forum, and with my low-mileage F250 (2012) pulling a trailer about 11K pounds up the side of some mountains, I've seen much higher transmission temps. Even when the ambient temps have been quite pleasant. I've wondered why that might be. Frankly, I wondered if some people were BSing us. But now I have a theory:
So, going up the mountain, my engine is turning maybe 4500 to 5000 rpm's, sometimes a bit more, sometimes for fairly long periods. Everyone says that isn't a problem for a gas engine, and I believe that is so. BUT . . . a diesel will be running roughly half the rpms, which means that input shaft/gears are turning much closer to the speed of output shaft/gears with diesel. There is quite a mismatch in input/output speeds with a gas engine, which means, I should think, more gears and busier gears moving quite rapidly. It would seem to me that could result in significantly higher oil temps.
Does this make sense?
I've been reading these tire threads for years. Twice now, I've had to replace tires while on the road, far from home. Right now, my trailer is in the shop to repair $2,000 of damages from cheap Chinese tires. And what is on the trailer now? Another set of cheap Chinese tires. I lost two tires in the same day, and something had to be done to get back on the road. That's all I could find within 50 miles of where the second failure occurred.
I was planning to get a new set in the spring, and research better tires then. I thought sure those two-year-old tires were good for one more 500 mile trip . . .
Chlorine is a gas, unless pressurized, like propane. Unless your tank is hermetically sealed, chlorine will dissipate, and fairly rapidly at summer temperatures.
btw, Bromine is often used for hot tubs because it dissipates at a slower rate than chlorine at higher temperatures. Just fyi, not terribly relevant here.
I often leave water in my fresh water tank all summer. But I seldom if ever would drink it, and I run water for ice-making through a filter at the faucet. Actually, 9 times out of 10, I use full hookups, which is why water could be in the holding tank all summer.