I had a diesel, and I traded it in on a gas F250. Reasons:
*Now I can hear my radio.
*Every station has gas, some have diesel. If they have diesel, it’s usually at two pumps, side by side. If someone is at one of the pumps, you probably aren’t getting into either of them when towing, and since the diesel pumps typically also sell gas, there is a pretty good chance one will be occupied.
*If you go to the diesel (truck) pumps out back, they don’t take credit cards. You go inside, get in line behind the people buying lottery tickets and junk food, prepay or leave a large cash deposit, go outside, fill up, go inside, get back in line . . . you can spend a half hour fueling up, not counting the bathroom stop.
*Diesel doesn’t evaporate off the ground like gas at the pumps. It’ll get all over your shoes and hands. And it stinks for hours. Hello, headache.
*For the extra cost of a diesel, if your gas engine fails after the warranty runs out, you can get a like new Jasper Engine replacement with a 100,000 mile warranty and have a lot of money left over. Or a new factory engine. If the diesel goes out outside of the warranty, even just getting the fuel delivery system fixed seems to cost at least $10,000 according to numerous posts at this site.
*Practically anyone can diagnose and fix a gas engine, but diesel repairs are much more specialized. If you have a problem, you may spend a week in a motel or in your trailer in some parking lot, and there goes your vacation.
*Higher upkeep costs. Those turbos don’t like dirty oil, so you’ll likely be changing oil more often, and a diesel holds about 3 times the oil. Oh, and filters, etc cost more. Who changes gas fuel filters, but if you don’t change your diesel filters, you’re asking for trouble and voiding your warranty. Water can and often will destroy a diesel engine.
*If you really need the admittedly stronger torque, say you have a 15,000 pound trailer, then a diesel is the clear choice. But my 2012 F250 is rated to pull, if I remember correctly, about 12,000 pounds and my trailer weighs about 11K or so. I’ve pulled my trailer from Indiana over the eastern mountains about five times (Carolinas, Florida, West Virginia, etc) and last fall, over 6,500 miles to San Francisco via Denver, and back through Nevada and New Mexico. The hills were no great problem, including going up and down 9 percent grades around Lake Tahoe. In fact, I prefer going up to coming down: I just feel more secure. The diesel was marginally better going up mountains, but how often does the typical person go up a mountain while towing, and how important is that 5 minute savings? The gas engine does the job, and does it well.
I did basically what Bob & Ann described. Offered a local dealer $30K on a 43K list Mountaineer. Said I'd rather buy it from him than go to Michigan. He hemmed and hawed, then said OK. Worked out perfectly.
2010 Mountaineer with rear kitchen. We've towed it from coast to coast to coast, multiple times to some coasts. We avoid glassware and put a velcro strap through the handles in the cupboard above the sink. Once we learned these things, no more issues. Who needs glassware, anyway?
I unbolted the table and made it free-standing, and usually put it along the wall close to the door. Got rid of two chairs, as we seldom used more than two. That gives us much better access when the slides are in, and more options for placement of the two reclining chairs. We really like the RK.
Someone above made reference to a statement that diesel would never be higher than gas.
It reminds me that several years ago, I predicted that natural gas (for residential heat) was going to go up faster than electricity, so people should opt for a heat pump when feasible rather than gas heat. Then we elected a guy who doesn't like coal five years ago, which has tended to push up electric rates thanks to the EPA's tightening emission rules, and the 'fracking' revolution has led to a huge drop in gas prices. A few years ago, who among us had heard of fracking?
It keeps one humble.
(BTW, a heat pump still runs cheaper than gas heat at reasonable outside temps, say down to 40 degrees. If anyone cares, I'd recommend a hybrid system today: gas heat below about 40, heat pump above. All the major HVAC companies have hybrid/dual fuel systems available.)
It requires a major change in eating patterns, even with the surgery.
I've lost over 40 lbs after reading 'Wheat Belly' - it'll scare you into changing how and what you eat. Remember Atkins? He was right, but he just didn't have the science and studies behind him. Well, now the science is established, and studies all over the world support low carb. Above all else: don't eat wheat. It's cheap, it's plentiful, and it is creating the weight problems all over the world, in ways I can't explain here in a few paragraphs.
Before going such a radical route, why not read Wheat Belly? Three chapters, and you'll be looking at foods very differently. It's pretty cheap from Amazon . . .
My daughter is an MD. We got her a copy, and she posted on Facebook: Wheat Belly has changed my life! And she's young, and slender.
added: And now she has a 'fix' for her steady stream of desperate patients.
I have a 2010. I've pulled it at least 25,000 miles, over the eastern mountains many times and to CA once. I've had few problems with it, all of them minor.
Cold weather: if I was full-timing I'd get something better. For limited use, down into the 20's, it's fine. I've used the furnace very little; I have two portable electric heaters. Also it has a built-in belly heater, which I've used.
I'm the OP. I tried it: turn key without touching the brake. It worked, engine runs and all dash lights come on. Seemed natural to step on the brake I guess. So all is well.
PS: it is whatever comes standard on a King Ranch.
I don't use remote start much, and one reason is because I've yet to figure out the 'proper' technique. I can get it started, but then I get into the truck, insert the key, rotate the key to 'run' position . . . and the engine dies. So I have to restart it, anyway.
Anyone know how to get the truck moving without killing the engine? There has to be a way, and the manual doesn't explain it.
I went from a 2006 F250 Diesel to a 2012 F250 Gas. I was delighted to be able to hear the radio again at any highway speed, not feel guilty firing up the truck in a crowded campground early in the morning, glad not to get that diesel smell all over my shoes (doesn't evaporate away like gas does), and a whole lot of other reasons.
With both, I was pulling an 11K+ 5th wheel trailer. With the 2012 I've pulled the trailer from Indiana to the East Coast twice, to San Francisco once, and to Florida twice. Lots of mountains along the way. Yes, the diesel gave better mileage, but the per gallon cost difference virtually wiped out the actual out-of-pocket cost difference. Anyway, I'm glad to be back to gas.
But that's just my opinion.
The heat that a dehumidifier puts out is a plus, as I see it. The process of condensing water on a surface generates heat. Of course, this isn't so welcome in summer.
Condensing water (into rain) is the power source in hurricanes, tornado's and your everyday thunderstorm . . . but on a very large scale.
In my opinion, the most important criteria in the selection of a dehumidifier is the noise level. Consumer Reports once recommended a LG model as being very quiet. I bought one, and took it right back. It was very irritating. The lower rated Frigidaire model proved to be very quiet. One never knows until one tries something out . . . and in this case, who knows? Maybe it was something to do with my hearing. Or a 'bad' LG compared to a 'good' Frigidaire.
The problem isn't just the moisture on the windows. There may be 'sweating' going on inside cupboards and closets on outside walls. And there can be moisture forming on the floor, inside or below the carpet.
Moisture in a trailer or MH is a real problem in cold weather. I think a dehumidifier is a very good idea. It also helps out in the other seasons, especially in the Spring on those warm but very humid days.
But opening up cupboard doors and circulating air to warm outside walls and ceiling/floor surfaces can help: if you get the surfaces above the dew point, then moisture won't condense.
I have the 6.2, 20k miles mostly towing. I think it was doing its job, Rascal. Time for the application of a little brakes. I pulled from Indiana to San Francisco by way of Denver and Tahoe, and ran into this many times. Too steep and too much weight for tow/haul to do the job all by itself.
It is easy to see the locking 'bar' inside the hitch, which when viewed is 'behind' the pin, closest to me. I note this as I insert the 7-pin connector inside the truck bed. So I see no need to use a pull test, as I have visually confirmed that the hitch is secured.
The most recent Trailer Life magazine features the installation. Just skimmed it, as it doesn't interest me. Looks like an all day installation. I believe there are three models with different amp loads, one of which I believe was for 30 amp, and the other two for 50 amp.
I think I can deal with portable heaters for many, many years before I will have invested as much effort as installing one of these. And then there is the cost . . . Plus, if you use portable units, you can 'stage' things such that the electric units carry most of the load, and the furnace kicks in only when the temp drops a couple degrees below where the electric units poop out. And even then, the electric units will continue to contribute to the heating needs. And maybe help keep the heat more even from end to end of the trailer, as the wind, etc has its effect on the trailer.
That Rand McNally GPS app looks nice. If I was thinking about a dedicated GPS, I'd sooner spend $99 on this. But I'm not.
And there are so many other options, for free or not very much money. I've gotten along for three/four years pulling my trailer without a GPS that shows height restrictions, propane on board, etc, guess I'll keep going with what I've already downloaded to my iPad. But if it was, say, $25 or less . . .