Shop fees have been around a long time and will continue to be around for a long time to come. Anyone with half a clue how a shop works realizes, done properly, they are the fairest way to charge for items that are actually used in the repair of a vehicle.
Even though people on the forum contend every time the subject starts that the fees are hidden, I just flat don't believe it! I spent a lifetime in and out of shops and have never seen one that does not disclose shop fees upfront. Either they are clearly disclosed by signage at the point of sale or clearly disclosed in writing on the repair order signed by the consumer. In most all states it is a matter of consumer protection laws governing garages.
Sorry, but little of your statement is based in reality. Shop fees are a profit center that are new to many areas, and illegal in others. They are designed to deceive the customer, and have little to do with cost associated with a repair. Assuming a bit of basic comprehension, even you would agree that a flat percentage of hourly rates for shop fees is nothing but a scam. There are plenty of jobs where the work involves little to nothing used in the way of shop supplies, and fees are added strictly to pad the bill. In decades of paying for repairs I have always legitimately paid for what you describe as "items used to actually do the repair" they are called PARTS, an they show up as an itemized list on the invoice.
Finally, claiming that they are clearly disclosed before the work is done is simply BS. AS I explained in my example, I clearly ASKED a Honda dealer if their quoted price was correct, or if there were any other fees. I was told it was the quoted price, plus state tax. Once the vehicle was on the lift, the ridiculous fees were disclosed. This is far from uncommon.
Shop fees are nothing but fraud, and I do not pay them, period. I needed to do a transmission service on our toad, to protect the warranty. I called dealers and got ridiculous quotes, up to $180 to literally drain and fill 3-4 QTs. of ATF. I found one to do the work at $99. I asked if there were any fees, and was told that it was $99 plus state sales tax. The car was in the service bay, on the lift, when the "service advisor" tells me that the total will be $136. Which breaks down to $99 for the work, a huge "shop fee" and sales tax. I told him that it was going to be $105.93, or they needed to get the thing to the front door, since I'm leaving. They then decided that as a "good will gesture" they could find it in their generous hearts to actually take fifteen minutes and install $30 worth of trans. fluid for the $99 they quoted. Screw shop fees and the thieves that charge them.
When it comes to having anything done at any of the mega-dealers, I'll never darken their doors. They need $120-150 Hour to keep that circus operating. The mechanic doing the work gets a tiny fraction of that, the balance is for all the other garbage that contributed absolutely nothing to having your vehicle serviced, or repaired. You pay for everything from the fifteen million dollar building to the CEO's salary. If I can't fix it, or install it myself, which is less than 10% of what I encounter, I either call a local mobile service, that gets half the hourly fee of the circus clowns, and does better, faster work. Or, it ends up at our local independent car and truck repair shop, where I know it will be repaired correctly, within a few days, and cost 1/2 of what the circus charges.
You will be fine. I towed this EXACT combination for tens of thousands of miles, with zero issues. I had the same Tahoe, same drivetrain, including the rears, and another brand of trailer that was the same length, and within a few pounds on the dry weight. I bought the truck used, and immediately added air bags to the rear, and swapped the tires out for E rated LT truck tires. Having owned several Tahoes and Suburbans, I always get rid of the light duty tires and put the air bags on, it makes a huge difference. It is a great combination and should serve you well, including climbing hills, where you won't beat any diesels, but it will get you to the other side with no drama. Good luck.
We had a great trade in offer from a well regarded Flagstaff dealer. The next issue was finding a model to fit our needs. We looked at four or five likely units, all brand new. Two of the five had had active roof leaks, one had a ridiculously loud groaning squeak while walking through it, and another had a water filter hidden behind a wall, in the front storage compartment You literally had to crawl in, and use a screw gun to disassemble the wall to change the filter. The larger slides on every unit had roofs that were sagging visibly, with the interior header trim drooping in the middle.
We bought a Jayco.
Given the price of a replacement hitch receiver, I can't imagine that any competent shop would want to waste the time, and assume the liability of repairing a damaged one. I would also want to be assured that the frame is still dead straight, and within factory specs. I would find it hard to believe that you have an undamaged frame at this point.
Whatever trailer you get, make sure that your vehicle can safely stop the trailer without overheating the brakes, especially in hilly country. A van will have no trouble pulling a trailer. But the braking is a different issue.
Talk about a wrong concept that just won't die. I can't count how many times this misinformation gets posted, here and all over the place. If you are relying on ANY tow vehicle to provide braking duties for any trailer over a very modest weight (1500lbs in many states) you are not only breaking the law, you are exceeding the capacities of the tow vehicle, and you are endangering yourself and others. That's not much of a problem, however, since the trailer is equipped with it's own brakes, and stops itself, assuming that the operator is smart enough to use a properly functioning brake controller.
Posts, numbering in the hundreds over the years here, have all made the same ridiculous claim. " Well you might be able to pull the thing, but can you stop it with those obviously inadequate brakes on your ( pick one...... SUV, van, pick-up, etc....) Unbelievable.
I agree with the OP. I sold two very clean, 3-4 year old trailers in the past. I paid roughly 75% of MSRP and sold them for 60%. Both sold within a few days, to VERY happy buyers. Everybody that looked commented about the overpriced junk they were finding on most dealer's lots. The most entertaining part was a family that showed up and really wanted the trailer, badly. The husband was a real idiot. He had this sneering, tough guy attitude, and told me what I would be selling it for. Since his "offer" was a few bucks under what I was asking, I suppressed my urge to tell him to buzz off. He then tells me that there will be no deposit, and I will be holding it until he will be back, with cash, in a week. Within a few hours I had another buyer for full price, and $500 in cash in my pocket. Over the coming week, I took a bunch of calls from disappointed shoppers and took phone numbers from them, as back-up. By the next weekend, I had been paid in full, the trailer was with it's happy new family, and tough guy has his wife call to tell me when we were closing the deal. I laughed, said it sold for full price a few hours after they left, and it's gone.
Ran intothe same issue at the Brooksville Florida TS location last year. One employee directed me to back into the fenced in yard, adjacent to the filling station. The next arrived to dispense the propane, and informed me that company policy forbids them from filling motorhomes. It was a problem, since they were 1/3rd less per gallon than anybody else in the area, and half of what the local propane co. was getting as they roamed the CG, filling motorhomes.
I would have to guess that there are quite a few Alaskans that do. Several times, while traveling the great white north (in summer) I heard locals that claimed that the #1 way to spend a permanent fund check was for airfare to Hawaii.
I once found a nearly new Chrysler at a dealer, and was doing the purchase paperwork, when I saw a few subtle clues that it may of been seriously damaged. After further examination, it was clear that the entire rear of the vehicle was replaced with another. Essentially, the thing had been built by welding two wrecks together. The car fax was totally clean, and the dealer's staff was aggressively promoting the fact that it was simply "impossible" and I had to be wrong. I guess that additional welding and patches under the car, the paint overspray, and oddly masked off clear coat were options that year, LOL.
Not much of an electrician if he can't even read what's on the box and the outlet.
Says 120 volt.
At least the 100's I have installed
X2 I have never installed anything other than a 15/20 amp duplex, or matching cord cap without carefully reading the NEMA ratings molded into the device. Had he done so, the "30 Amp-125 Volt-travel trailer use only" markings would of been helpful.
A guy was at Walmart trying to raise money for gas and food in a class C so some others helped out and I topped off tank. Hoping he makes it to Phoenix.
Sometimes it's a scam, sometimes it's not.
I figure if I help someone and they are lying/faking, it's on them, not me. If I don't help them, I may have turned my back on someone in need.
A while back a minister who ran a soup kitchen did an experiment. It was in Texas, IIRC. Every time he, and some of his followers, we panhandled for money for food, they hand out a free meal coupon to the soup kitchen. No strings attached, no preaching, just a free hot meal. Six thousand free meal tickets were handed out, a small handful were used! The reason is simple. The vast majority of panhandlers are addicts. Your desire to be sure that you are helping somebody in need, is nothing but assuring that YOUR money is buying THEIR drugs and alcohol.
The best policy is to NEVER hand a dime to anyone who is begging. If they need money for gas, tell them that you are willing to use your credit card to put a few gallon in their tank. If they are hungry, tell them that you will walk them to a local restaurant and prepay for their meal. 99.9% of the time this will get you a response that varies from, "no thanks" to hostility, for one simple reason. You are negotiating with a lying drug addict who has no interest in your charity offering, but wants your cash to score the next fix.
It's an old problem. I recall magazine pics. and even ads for insurance featuring combinations like the 1990s Dodge minivans pulling 5000lb. 25 ft. long travel trailers. The exact vehicles that made a good living for my local transmission shop, that typically had at least a dozen awaiting repairs, since they would puke transmissions while hauling big loads like groceries and toddlers.
A little different from the rest of the posts in this thread but I read the article referenced early on. I noticed that the investigating officers testified there were no indications of hard braking ie: skid marks from the RV.
It seems I see and hear that a lot when an accident occurs. Isn't the whole point of anti-lock brakes to prevent skid marks? If so then it seems there would never be skid marks due to hard braking at the accident scene. Am I missing something?
There is a video available, created by a dash cam of a car waiting to pull in to traffic, at the time of impact, and a few hundred feet downstream of the collision. The video shows that the motorhome was moving shockingly fast AFTER the impact, MUCH faster than the flow of other vehicles, and certainly wasn't following any directives to slow for construction, or paying attention to any first responders, lane closures, flashing lights, etc.....
I'm surprised by the slap in the wrist punishment, and have no issues with the driver ending up essentially destitute, having taken a life needlessly, and ending up with what is, in reality, a joke of a sentence.
After only a few short months, the radio quit working correctly. That's not worth a 30 mile trip to CW to them. But when the power inverter failed, well, that was worth the trip for a warranty repair.
Its been close to a month since their unit was taken to CW for this work. They determined that the inverter was indeed bad, so they "filed paperwork". As of the last I heard, CW received approval from the manufacturer for the warranty repair and was waiting on parts. .
This is pathetic. I had a converter fail, about 1700 miles from home. It was under warranty. I stopped at dealer, with the inverter in hand, and they confirmed that the fuses were good, and it had no output. Five minutes later I walked out the door with a new one. It took another five to reinstall it.
Taking months to replace a bad converter is the equal to taking a new car back to the dealer with a defective battery, only to be told that it will take a month or two to get you back on the road. If the converter is easily accessible, they literally take less than ten minutes to test, diagnose, and replace.
We just travelled that route a few days ago. That stretch of 301 sure is entertaining when it comes to being designed as one long speed trap. Even though the world famous Waldo scam is shut down, there are certainly other opportunities to donate to local jurisdictions. At one point in Starke, IIRC, there is a spot where the limit drops by another ten, and just after the sign is a deputy hiding deep under a low hanging tree. This trap is so heavily used that there are deep ruts where the cruiser backs in to the hole, LOL.
Sounds like a classic tale of a heavy trailer and barely adequate chinabombs. I've been down that road with a 35' Rockwood. The first blow out sucks, the second one is the universe's way of telling you to get to the tire store to figure our what size LT truck tires you need. The OP really needs to see the carnage, and repair estimate, when one of these POS ST rated tires carves a semi-circle through the rig. I have seen rigs that looked like they parked on a landmine, by the time somebody flags them off the highway. It's a sight to see, and avoidable.
My decent 5" orbital sander was on long term "loan" to one of my kids. I grabbed a $29 one from HF. It didn't do the job real well, but it was pretty entertaining. For some reason, after a few minutes of use, the hook and loop fastener would fail. The fleece side on the paper would spin, the disc would break loose and fly fifty feet away in the yard. I first attributed the problem to cheap paper, but it did the same thing with name brand stuff. After a few hours of suffering through that issue the switch started to fail intermittently. Overall, it left me with the impression that their power tools are best avoided. They were good about refunding my money, and I wouldn't hesitate to continue buying other tools there.