I use standard blades found in any auto parts store. The issue isn't the blade itself but the size of the bracket that attaches to the arm. So I drill out the rivet on the bracket of the blade, Remove that bracket, put in the one that came off the rv, run a small bolt through and done. Cheap and easy.
I just did exactly this. I found the correct 24" assembly at NAPA for $30. I found the same exact part at Autozone for $12. The difference was that the cheaper part had a riveted sleeve installed to attach the plastic "fits all" adapter, that allows the part to fit all kinds of different cars. I drilled the rivet out, removed the plastic adapter and saved $36.
You will probably be stuck with the Keystone until he retires if you are spending much time in the G-burg area. State income tax, etc. We lived 50 plus years in Chambersburg and when I retired we went fulltime we severed all ties with PA. It is not fulltime friendly as taxes, tags, mail service etc.
We a currently full timers, early retirees, and PA. residents. I looked at "moving" to all the usual states. I found that as a 53 Y.O I'm pretty much screwed wherever I go, health care wise, but that South Dakota is a complete deal breaker. Vehicle registrations and insurance are cheap here, way cheaper that transferring everything to Florida. State taxes are nearly non-existent for us, since the vast majority of our income is in the form of pensions and SSD, which are not taxed by the state, or local governments. We keep our domicile address at our kid's house in the state and transfer our mail to ST. Brendan's Isle, mail service in FL. Bottom line for us? PA. is cheaper than I thought it would be, and a lot cheaper and easier than relocating to the "must do" full timer domicile states.
I forgot to mention that Winnebago glues there windshields into place. A half of a windshield is very spendy around $1,100.00 plus labor.
I just had both sides of our '07 Vista done, including nearly twelve hours of labor, mostly as a result of extensive repair to rusted framing behind the glass. Glass was $650 a side, labor $250 a side. Labor seemed to be pretty standard with the 4-5 shops I contacted. Prices for the same piece of glass varied from $650 to $900.
We put 47K tow miles on a 2013 CRV., with a Ready brake tow bar and the fuse bypass switch. In three years of hard use, I killed the battery once, by towing it for a full ten hour day, without flipping the fuse bypass switch. And once by parking on a very steep slope, facing downhill, and forgetting that the brake lights on the Honda were on, because the ready brake was still pulling the pedal down. I swapped the '13 for a very low mileage '14 recently. I eliminated the hard wired tailights, and switched to wireless, magnetic LED unitson the "new" car. That has eliminated the biggest PITA of all, which was continual issues with the toad lighting, usually caused by the cheap, Chinese piece of trash six pin receptacle mounted on the car.
I'm on my third gas cap. Obviously, my rig does not have a handy tether leash built into the cap. I bought two replacements at Advanced Auto type places, so far. Now my first step, while refueling, is to remove the cap and put it in my pocket, NOT set it on top of the pump.
#1. You paid full MSRP for your current motorhome.
#2 You walked into an extremely aggressive sales organization and said, "I can only spend $1000-1200 a month.
Those two statements make it perfectly clear that you need to either educate yourself on how to protect yourself from engaging in another self inflicted financial disaster, or find some third part that can handle the task. You are in grave danger of doing a lot of damage to your long term finances, if you continue to present yourself as an easy victim. You are not negotiating, you are presenting yourself as a lamb for slaughter. You need to STOP wasting time looking for something you do not NEED! and take a look at your finances, and exactly how far upside down you are with your first disastrous motorhome purchase, and how to correct THAT mess, BEFORE you take another stab at screwing yourself over again.
I'm surprised to see all the recommendations for leaving the slides out permanently. We have been in several Florida parks, as the place starts to wind down, and rigs get prepped for being left behind. I have never seen a single rig left with the slides out. Not saying that it's right or wrong, but when you have walked past a few hundred rigs, all buttoned up for the summer, with the slides tightly closed, I would need to hear a pretty compelling reason to go against the trend.
Towed an arctic fox 19b with a Tahoe 5.3L and it struggled on the hills. I guess if acceptable is 20mph up hills then you will be ok.
So with your 305 hp Tahoe and 4400lb TT (plus gear, passengers, etc), you could only hit 20 mph on the hills? Yeah, that'd be a problem.
I don't understand this. Did you have 3.08 gears and 315/75/16 tires?
Yea, this is interesting. I put tens of thousands of tow miles on two different Tahoes, pulling a 26' 4600 UVW TT, and never climbed a mountain pass in the Rockies at less than 35MPH. Both were 3.73s and the older one was the 4sp auto and the old 5.7. I didn't know that there was such a wide range of towing performance with them.
I bought two TTs from online dealers. Both saved huge amounts, and were worth it in the end. Neither deal went smooth however. The first was from a giant online wholesaler. They were so busy they were running around like headless chickens. The salesman would not even return calls. I asked him to personally do a through inspection of the unit to avoid us driving eleven hours to pick up a unit with issues. He failed to note the giant roof leak and the mattress with gallon of water pooling on it. We did a twenty two hour round trip for nothing but frustration. The management did step up and make it right, including arranging free delivery of a fresh unit, and really going to bat for us, when that one had to be returned to the factory, since it was leaking also. The other TT was from an upstate NY outfit, and they were, and are, shady slippery buggers. The saleswoman flat out lied to me. She took a deposit and deliberately excluded the fact that they wanted to be paid, in full, prior to us taking delivery, and would be titling the unit in our names, before we ever saw it. This was for an in stock unit. We eventually took possession of the thing, but it was nothing but repeated lies, including claims like, "the state makes us do it this way", when a call to the state resulted in me being told, "no, that sounds illegal". In both cases we got several years of quality use out of the Trailers. The one with the leak issues ended up being a great product, overall. We sold it, two years later, for $100 more than we paid. The other one was also a good product that we used hard for three years and sold for $2400 less than our initial cost. Overall, it went well.
Why not wait and pay camping world to install the hitch?
The best reason is that doing it yourself means that you will read the directions, install it properly, and adjust it correctly. My first hitch was a dealer install. After my first camping weekend, I had to disassemble everything and do the job properly. Since then I have installed at least five more, including two that had to be reinstalled for friends, after it was obvious that the dealer should of never been allowed to touch the thing. Paying CW $150/HR to do something that requires the ability to follow simple directions, and use hand tools, isn't a great idea if you can avoid it, especially given their less than impressive track record in doing work promptly and properly.
Where is or resident Spanish Trails slandered when you need them? Maybe that cease and desist letter cooled the fire. Just kidding, LOL.
Did you ever try the one just north of the entrance to Arches? Not much shade, so it can get wicked hot, but WOW, there are some stunning views from there. Canyonlands, in the middle of town is nice, super convenient to everything, but a tight fit, with small sites. On our most recent trip we spent a week at Spanish Trail, on a shaded site in the very back of the park. Everything was fine, the staff was friendly and there was a real good laundry on site. I did notice that they were expanding to the south, and there are a lot of sites out in an open field, which is something to consider, when booking.
I had some flake of a woman who really wanted to create a scene at a gas station, over this topic. She started by standing at her pump, shrieking "sir, sir" repeatedly, from fifty feet away. As I asked her if she was talking to me, she shouted, "how much gas does THAT use?" I answered, "about seven miles per gallon". She then let out a dramatic scream. It was over the top. I then asked how many MPGs HER house gets? She got defensive, and said, "well that ISN"T a HOUSE!". I replied, "Well, it has a bathroom, a kitchen, a bedroom, and I live in it, does that sound like a house to you?". She said, "well, I never though of it that way", got in her car, and took off.
What a fruit loop.
what is this stuff in the picture? house areas are way larger and I doubt u will see anything this bad in a MH
some parts of Canada have extreme weather temp changes but lots of it do not
I did a glue down vinyl plank in my motorhome. I did the install, mid-winter, in Florida, and it has been in for about eight months now. The rig spent the spring and summer above the Mason line. The manufacturer is very clear about installing the product in a temperature controlled environment for a good reason. It can fail, in a manner similar to the picture, if it ends up exposed to large temp. swings. I have end gaps between my planks, and always will, due to simple physics, not installation issues, or glue selection.
My floor is not nearly as bad as the picture, and it is a top quality, thick, beveled edge commercial product by Armstrong.
The reason for the gaps is simple. Vinyl has an expansion coefficient that is roughly 4-6X greater than wood. My vinyl planks are 36" long and will vary in length by 1/8" depending on how hot it is inside the RV. The problem is that the installation is done at a comfortable temp. say, 65*. Later, the rig sits in the hot sun, and hits 100*, or more. The planks expand and push the flooring, length wise. The planks all move a bit, and the ones at the front and back of the rig, move the most since the expansion pushes them farther. Things cool down to the "base line" temp. that the installation was done at, and they DO NOT return to their original position, but still have visible gaps of 1/32 to 3/32, since they are glued to the floor, but have all slightly shifted by virtue of expansion and relocation while they were "hot". The only time my floor is truly tight is if it's parked on a hot day, and it's really hot inside. I know however, that once the interior cools, the gaps will return.
Bottom line is that Ernie is right. Vinyl is a pretty marginal product for use in RVs, and if you are going to put a huge amount of effort in to doing it right, the cost of a quality,engineered hardwood product is well worth the upgrade.
One of the most painful things I ever watched was a very large, and very new trailer being freed from being wedged between two trees. The owner was obviously a newbee, and decides that his huge bumper pull would fit just fine, down a paved campground road that was slightly bigger than a golf cart path. This was in the tenting section, BTW, where NOBODY pulling anything belonged, or could fit. He came to a jog in the road (think of a mini serpentine section)and negotiated it with the Excursion he was driving. As he wove the trailer through it got stuck on one side, and he tried to correct and managed to lever it hard, between two trees. He has it so stuck that the recovery crew, used a steel beam, on a forklift, to raise the back end. They then used a winch to pull the trailer sideways, as the trailer frame slid on the beam. The noise was like nails on a chalk board, as the trailer crushed and crumpled. The TT was crushed severely at the drip edge, on both sides. I wouldn't be surprised if he had totaled it. Yep, those trees were also guilty.
Doug you may, in fact, be an exceptional, experienced, and well trained RV tech. I think the OP makes it pretty clear that is is more than qualified to handle the task, also. That said, the righteous indignation you rant about needs to be weighed against what most of us face. That being that there is a significant percentage of "certified RV techs." out there that do little but stumble around and screw things up, while the company they work for collects $120/HR and more, for the clown show they preform. I'm not a space ship mechanic, but a homebuilder, electrician and plumber. I have yet to have any of my rigs end up in the shop for repairs, once they are out of warranty, for several reasons. First, I have yet to encounter a mechanical issue that I can't resolve. Second, when I have had new rigs repaired, under warranty, there is a fifty-fifty shot that they will correct the problem. I have repeated had to rework and correct screwed up workmanship from factory certified techs. Nothing personal, but when you start with "how dare you" I'm not the only one that chuckles. If you are as good as you claim, you know darn well that you are surrounded by monkies wearing the same uniform you are. If not, both you and your shop are an exception.
Add Calgon softener and Dawn dish soap. Helps a lot.I use Dawn but don't use Calgon. What does the Calgon do? When I'm done RVing I empty my tanks then add 1/2 cup of Dawn and 5 gallons of water and just let it slush around while driving to my next destination. My coach has a oscillator which I use to clean the sensors.
Calgon liquid water softener is part of the "GEO method" that had followers here, in the past, and maybe still does. It works, but I do what you do, and it's easy, and never fails. I dump, then fill up a drywall bucket with about four gallons of water. Before I dump that down the toilet, I give it a shot of liquid laundry detergent. If I had a stuck sensor, the problem is gone after that soapy water has had a nice road trip, and a chance to slosh around the tank. I have also used bleach to control tank smell, and have done so, successfully, for decades.
The parking was built and is operated by a non-profit group that has raised, and spent, tens of millions of dollars on improving the area surrounding the monument. The area looks nothing like a midway carnival, it is tastefully done to include an Avenue of flags, mounted on granite columns. The avenue leads to the carving, where it ends at a huge granite stadium, concealed below your sight lines, when visitors can watch fireworks. There are not multiple gifts shops as you claim, nor is there any "junkie stuff" on the grounds. There is a gift shop and restaurant with tall glass walls overlooking the carving, and a well done museum with a theater. Given the fact that congress refuses to spend enough to maintain and upgrade our national parks, this is as good as it gets. I was there before the Memorial Society really stepped up and got things going. The grounds were a disaster, and looked like some third rate, backwoods state monument, that was failing from neglect. There was about a 1/4 of the amount of parking actually needed for the crowds, and you looked at the monument while standing on old, rickety wooden decks, it was a disgrace.
Endless choices at that time of the year, from Rafter J, which is probably the nicest local privately operated CG, to multiple CGs in Custer State Park. Great time to be in the hills. Warm days, cool nights, and the crowds are gone. Have a great trip.
Sadly, when it comes to specifics of a single floor plan, the manual on a $200K 2017 unit will often be nearly as useless as not having one at all. My rig came with an odd transfer switch that does nothing but allow the generator to run both AC units. It's a Winnebago, and was bought from a Winny dealer. During the PDI, the switch stumped two dealer techs. We then grabbed the company provided, soft sided briefcase with fifteen pounds of various manuals to read about the switch. You guessed it, absolutely no info. They had to call factory support to ask. Since then I have found several issues similar to that. I generally don't bother with the mass of paper provided by the company, and head straight for the laptop, and see what kind of support I can find online. Without exception, it has always been a lot more useful.
Some companies are great with providing info. on older units, some could care less. In the end you have a somewhat hand built house, on a truck frame. The thing was built on a fairly crude assembly line, often with semi-skilled, low paid help. The level of precision, execution and documentation will probably be pretty disappointing to somebody with an aviation background. OTOH, even with lack of documentation, and proper care, very few motorhomes fall out of the sky, LOL. Good luck, and try not to keep your standards too high, since it only leads to frustration.