As a "Rule of Thumb", if you want to avoid freezing temps. overnight, consider staying south of I 4. Agree that we would not stay 2 months in an unfamiliar campground, so the idea of staying 2 weeks at a couple different places makes sense to me. Good Luck
Kind of ironic to be reading this. We are in our fourth season as birds. Our handful of winter buddies decided to try a new resort in a very different location. We had booked for Feb/March at their new choice, and planned stopped by last month, for a quick visit. We are beyond grateful that we took the time to do a "test trip" to this new location. The whole situation is awful. The resort is sweet, but too small, and not geared toward the snowbird crowd at all. The place is surrounded by a poverty plagued, depressing mess of a town, in a very remote area. Had we paid for, and spent two months at this location, it would of been a totally ruined winter. It's a bit more expensive to go with a weekly rate, at 4-6 parks in a two month period, but well worth the cost, especially if it's your first time. Good luck.
Keep in mind that your buddy might be facing more than the issue of trailer age, when searching for a long term site as a construction worker. Some campground owners cater to that crowd, some refuse to even consider renting to them. Some campgrounds with a high percentage of transient workers are really nicely run, and a great place to stay. We just spent a week at a resort grade park on the Texas coast that was at least half full of pipeliners. It was spotless, well run, and quiet. OTOH, we have been in another location when the management didn't care, and the whole place was as wild as a dive bar on free beer night, loud nights, a ring of beer bottles around picnic tables in the morning and trashy rigs. The other issue is that Colorado is far from oversupplied with campgrounds, particularly commercial ones, on the front range.We do not allow transient workers because we have found they just don't fit with our business model. We cater to the vacationing crowd, period. Some may rightly feel that such a policy is elitist, discriminatory or whatever other word you want to use to describe it, but it is something we feel works best for us and our customers.
It's pretty unusual when I agree with you, but this makes sense. I have discussed this issue with a few CG owners, and some are very successful at it. IMHO, it seemed like it takes a lot more supervision and setting boundaries, and I understand why others simply say no. As for elitist, or whatever, I agree that it's nobody's business if you chose not to engage in any long term tenants. You live in a pretty rational state, from a legal perspective, but I have stayed in others where even an overnight stay generates a contract that makes it clear that the guest in no way has a tenant/landlord relationship and can not, for any reason be a guest for more than x# of days, usually less than 30. I can't imagine the hassles of dealing with a difficult guest who is now a legal tenant and has all the rights that entails, depending on what state we are taking about.
This is the chassis under your MH and notice that it has a bumper. It is behind the front cap.
That is NOT a bumper as concerns this thread. That steel plate is WAY behind the front cap and they do not install any additional supports from that steel plate and the front cap. Doug
LOL, on my F53 Winny, that piece is at least 18" behind the grille. I literally sat in that space, while doing repairs underneath. From that "bumper" to the paint is nothing but non-structural fiberglass decoration. The rear is no less unimpressive. What appears to be a rear bumper is actually a faux one, attached to the rear wall skirt with four bolts. This area is nothing but fiberglass, foam and glue, with just enough light gauge aluminum tubing to keep it all in one piece. With enough determination, a helmet and a good helping of stupid, you could easily do major damage to the front or back of a class A with a bicycle. Naturally, the helmet would be a personal choice.................
Keep in mind that your buddy might be facing more than the issue of trailer age, when searching for a long term site as a construction worker. Some campground owners cater to that crowd, some refuse to even consider renting to them. Some campgrounds with a high percentage of transient workers are really nicely run, and a great place to stay. We just spent a week at a resort grade park on the Texas coast that was at least half full of pipeliners. It was spotless, well run, and quiet. OTOH, we have been in another location when the management didn't care, and the whole place was as wild as a dive bar on free beer night, loud nights, a ring of beer bottles around picnic tables in the morning and trashy rigs. The other issue is that Colorado is far from oversupplied with campgrounds, particularly commercial ones, on the front range.
Got to agree with the first response. Service the trans, including flush, filters and fluids, then see how long it will continue to provide trouble free service. I do mine every two years, which works out to 30K miles lately. It's ten years old, and trouble free. I wouldn't spend a moment of time thinking about upgrading coolers or rebuilding anything until it's been properly serviced and run until issues are evident, and I'm betting you will be fine.
Not a shocker that snow tires are better than non snow tires in snow......
Just siped a new set of mudders for the truck. She climbs mtn passes like a billy goat on crack now!
Yea, if we were talking about old school snow tires, you would be correct. Winter tires are a whole other game. They are very soft, have sipes, mini-sipes on the tread blocks, and all kinds of engineering magic involved in their design and construction. They not only do well in snow, but they are superior on ice, and outperform studded tires in testing.
The other tip with winter tires, especially if you are mounting them on a second set of rims, is to go down 1 size, especially true on today's SUVs/CUVs. If you have 19" rims drop down to 18". Double check that your vehicle can accommodate a 1" smaller rim.
More important, drop the tire width down 1 or 2 sizes (say 255 to 245 or 235) and UP the aspect ratio (from 55 to 60 or 65). Just double check the load capacity .
Taller, skinnier tires do better in the snow.
Great advice. I did this with my daughter's Toyota FWD. Went from 17 to 15" which dropped the width by at least 20MM, and resulted in a much taller sidewall, which is a lot better for hitting potholes with. The other bonus is that the actual tires are dramatically cheaper, as you decrease rim diameter, and bump the aspect ratio up. OTOH, my son tried to do an even swap for winter tires on his newer GTI with very low profile, wide tires. It was a waste of time and money, as the wide tread, and torquey motor made the thing about useless in snow.
Hope he really enjoys the trailer. If it's not too much effort to find a manual, there is no harm in trying. But as others stated, it's typically a stunningly useless waste of paper. What you can teach him, and beginner tutorials online offer, are far more valuable. Even when it comes to searching for individual appliance or similar manuals, why bother? I really have to look at my fridge to tell you the brand and model. That said, it has given me issues twice now, and with five minutes spent on a youtube video, I fixed it, for free. I have had similar results with the HWH, where the repair knowledge, and the information about spending 1/3rd LESS for an exponentially better repair part (Dinosaur board) all were clearly provided online, but nowhere to be found in the official manual.
My local tire chain has just announced that they will not mount only 2 snow tires on any vehicle starting 2017.
IMO they are just wanting to sell me more tires for my 2WD rear drive truck!
I understand matching tires on 4WD vehicles. And maybe on FWD (where they were saying to put 2 snows on the rear?). But not on my truck!
And this is from someone that told me to buy all-season instead of winter for year round use on my Sonata. I read an article that stated you get better stopping year round with winter tires, but sacrificing tread ware.
I would imagine at some point, going against manufacturer's recommendations, and installing two, probably isn't worth the chance of being in court, accused of being responsible for an accident.
From my experience, a FWD, should NEVER be fitted with winter tires on the front only. When Blizzaks first became popular, in the northeast, I had a set put on the front of my wife's Intrepid. I got the stern warning that really wasn't right to only put two on. I just assumed that it was a commissioned salesman giving me a load of bull. The first 4" snowfall changed my mind. In a slow speed pull out, from a stop, involving a 90* turn, the car turned, then did an effortless spin, out of control. It literally looked, and felt, like the FWD was gripping the road like it was dry, and the backs were slicks on ice. I then found a set of used steel rims, and bought Blizzaks for the rear. That car, shod with winter skins, was a beast in bad winter weather, and I can't count how many times we drove around 4WD SUVs as they floundered on grades, or slid into the shoulder.
I always love traveling in rural Canada and seeing how silly we can be in the states. In the relatively milder climate on the northeastern US, you just absolutely "need" an SUV for all the "bad" weather. It's madness to think otherwise. For the love of all things holy, think of the children. Yet, you can be out in the Canadian maritimes, a thousand + miles north, and in REAL winter country, and suddenly you CAN survive without wasting tens of thousands more for a vehicle. You stop at a small town grocery and there are two dozen vehicles in the lot. Maybe an SUV or two, a couple or farm trucks, and the rest are minivans, with a few FWD cars sprinkled in. Huh, It seems that if you are not a brainwashed consumer, maybe a minivan and four winter tires is actually a pretty good way to get the job done.
Gee, you went to a store that sells RV's and not a to a garage that works on RV's and you are disappointed with the service you got.
And then you came here to complain.
Should have came here first.
No, he went to a huge CW, that has lots of service bays, and mechanics, and service writers, etc...... Which means that it is indeed, a "garage that works on RV's" as you stated, and is very busy doing so. Now, is it the kind of RV garage that will ever see anything I own darken their doorway, heck no. But you can't blame the OP for mistakenly believing that one of the largest RV repair organizations in the world, might, just maybe actually be capable of servicing his bearings, in a neat and workmanlike manner, within a reasonable amount of time.
I have the blazer brand, two light LED set-up that was less than $90 delivered, from Jet.com. I've used it extensively since last summer, an it's a great buy for the money. The batteries last a LOT longer than claimed, and overall it's been a great way to do the job. I switched toads from one CRV to a new one. I really wanted to avoid hard wiring additional tail light bulbs into this toad, since the old set-up was a continual PITA. So far, no regrets, and it's a 1/4 or a 1/3rd the cost of a wireless light bar.
My little brother was the area manager for a rental agency that had about 500 vehicles on the road, in his territory. He not only had his employees trained to alway remove antennas before entering "rag beater" car washes, but they were well aware that they would serious consequences for any damage to a car as a result of being too lazy to unscrew the thing, and put it in the car, beforehand. I can't imagine why the car wash is at fault here? I don't need to be told to not drive a dually through one. To not leave a case of empty beer cans in the bed. To not leave a whip antenna in place, or do any other dumb thing before entering one. I'm not sure why the lack of a sign somehow makes your own stupidity somebody else's fault? Now the bigger issue is why anybody would take ANY vehicle they care about through a beater rag car wash in the first place? I check first, and if it isn't touchless, I move on.
My mechanic has a 6.0 used to pull his race car. His take is that the truck is just sickening to think about. He has no faith that it will get him to and from the track, on any weekend, without needing to be towed. The resale value is horrendous, and he has far too much time and money wasted keeping it running to just dump it. He also has a large fleet maintenance customer that had a pile of 6.0 F250s on the road. Their bean counters watched the repair costs, and determined that dumping them at the end of the engine warranty was the best business decision. Between down time, and no longer having Ford pick up the tab for keeping the things running, they had to go. This is a company that expects 300-400K out of their typical Chevy and Ford heavy pickups and box trucks.
Some people wouldn't pull a utility trailer with anything less than a 3500. They are whacko.
THAT is a TOTAL FABRICATION on your part and IMO makes you the WACKO for perpetuating such a FALSHOOD and again IMO puts your opinion suspect for even being seriously considered.
I challenge you to provide at least two links that supports that statement in those words. I was going to make that a single statement, but there just might as you have said might be more than the one confirmed WACKO we know of.
Hope you are joking? If not, you should be.
I've been on here longer than most, (not that that means anything) and I've seen too many "can I pull this?" threads, to even count. That said, this forum is FAMOUS for towing opinions, cheerfully given by folks who haven't a clue, or are dealing with their worn set of "facts" that are totally correct, assuming that it's still 1975. How about the infamous, "you will never pull that with a half ton" silliness? Doesn't matter that the half-ton in question is rated to tow 8-9K, or even more, and had twice the horsepower, braking and other key components as the "half ton" that gramps had, "back in the day". Yes, I HAVE even seen RV.net "experts" recommend that the poster sell a perfectly reasonable trailer, that's well within the capacity of the TV, and buy a pop-up, since they ineviably will die a horrible death if they pull the rig in question. NO, I have no interest in shoveling through the archives to find the many times that such horse sheet was offered. You have been here long enough to know how ridiculous "advice" sometimes gets when it comes to this topic.
My current RV is an '84 Allegro which is outside of your definition of vintage...maybe more retro :)
Well, it's still 32 years old. I think my Winnie was a 72 or 73, and I owned it 95 or 96, so it was only around 23 years old at the time..........
I bought it from a tow yard where it was left to rot. The previous (original) owner turned it over to them, I assume because the tow cost more than the rig was worth. The 454 was blown to smithereens. After sitting for 6 years they put it on Craigslist for $600. I saw the ad and had to go see it. It had good bones but no one was going to buy it. I'd have gladly paid the $600 but offered him $400 with the condition that they tow it to my house. He agreed but made me promise - and he was really intense on this point - that it would not be parted out. It had to get back on the road - a promise he had made to the previous owner. I agreed.
I dropped a GM Performance 454 in it and the rest is history. We have a great time with it. I forget how old it is - it turns heads everywhere I bring it - most recently to the washed-out NASCAR race at the Pocono Raceway (pic below).
Sure it's a little sketchy to drive, but so was everything else made in 1984.
We just moved, but since 1989 we have lived close enough to Pocono to hear the cars shift gears as they navigate the triangle. The local joke is that you can plan your summer weekends by looking at the Nascar schedule. It helpfully identifies the two weekends when it WILL be raining, and the next monday, that will be beautiful, since that's when the race will actually run.
I would talk to a few competent body shops and boat yards. I have had several areas repaired on my older motorhome, prior to having it repainted. It's been over a year and 20K miles, and there is no evidence of any issue. IMHO, I don't agree with your RV repair shop.
Your are beyond good with this combo. I pulled a 25' trailer that was 4600# empty, with two different Tahoes and a Suburban. In total I had to have been near, or even over, 100K tow miles and had ZERO issues with any of the Chevies. Have fun.
another comment that does make a lot of sense..
thanks to all the comments, even the derogatory comments. I need to learn how to communicate better. Youd think at 51 id have learned.
Not at all. You have an opinion and stated it well. Remember this is a forum full of folks who spent a great deal of money on their hobby, and many can only tolerate positive reinforcement. Some are well positioned to own whatever they want. Some have made sound decisions with their choices, and are doing well. Some should have never made the very bad decisions they did. They ended up in debt up to their ears, for RVs that they will be upside down on, forever. Many bought absolute junk, because, they think exactly 180* opposite of your reasoning. They wanted all the bells, whistles and junk they saw. The fact that all the junk they lusted after is sourced from the cheapest of Chinese suppliers, or that the structure is failing since the frame was slammed together by a illegal making piece rate to slap poor quality welds on under-engineered and undersized steel, is something they come to learn later.
Finally, posters being dismissive of you owning "old junk" are hilarious. I own a decade old Winnebago that is in excellent condition. I'm all in, at less than a third of what the new model of this size costs. I have two friends who just spent (actually one borrowed) big bucks for a motorhome and a luxury fifth wheel from the big two (Forrest river and Thor) To call either of these rigs "steaming piles of sheet" would be a slap in the face to sheet piles everywhere. They are unimaginably horrendous rolling junk piles and combined are a waste of a 1/4 million dollars. If my rig disappeared tomorrow, I would shop for another 7-10 year old, well regarded brand. The current crop of overdecorated, horrendously built trash doesn't interest me. As for truck prices, many here are correct. Used diesels that are five years old, nearing 100K miles, and selling for 75-80% of original invoice, just make it clear to me that there are a lot of fools out there.