8".....6".....7" No need to share your personal information. Be aware however, that, as any competent statistician will confirm, all self reported data is considered suspect
Nice job Max. Good to hear that she is heading to the park. We have always had great experiences with the volunteers there, nice to hear that they found another good one.
One thing that needs verified and IT NEEDS TO BE DONE FOR SAFETY REASONS. Access the 120 breaker panel in the RV and verify the tightness of the incoming 30 amp power wires(Black and White) to the breaker and breakers. After 25 years, they may have melted/burnt and now has a loose dangerous connection. Doug
Yea, I covered this already. I certainly wouldn't want to wait a few decades to do this. My latest rig was eight years old when I got it. The #6 wire feeding the DC bus was so loose the eyelet stake-on was barely touching the screw holding it to the bus, and the screw was two turns from falling off. This connection got so hot that it melted insulation on the wire. The #6 12 volt feed from the converter was also flopping around in the terminal, and got hot enough to melt the "tinning" off the bare end. I re-torqued everything I had access to, 120V and 12V.
We have a 2013 CR-V. 59K miles on the ODO, 40K miles +/- additional being towed. We did the tranny service last year, at the dealer. Zero issues with the trans. BTW, if you test drive a 13 or 14 and you heard a really strange noise as you pull out from a stop, it's a pump on the back differential. It literally sounds like a frog croaking under the back seat. It's a quick fix, and should be under warranty. Good luck. CR-Vs are far from exciting, but they are a durable transportation appliance that won't let you down.
There is NO 120 volt Thermal Breaker that will auto reset in any motorhome. Especially a 25 year old 30 amp RV. I will bet the CG system was OFF and when it came back on she got her 120 power back. Odds are also on a 1991 WINNE/Itsasca 30 amp RV there is NO 30 amp transfer switch. Back then, Winne used a hardwire plug in the shore Cord compartment and you had to plug in the 30 amp cord to that receptacle to get Genset power. Doug
I agree with the lack of a thermal, and the probability that there is no transfer switch. The CG power is not the issue however. The OP is the owner and builder of the CG, and a all around talented guy. He would be the first to know if the power was out.
Yes it's water damage. Yes, the owner is FOS. Nobody cleans the floor of an RV like they are swabbing the decks of a commercial kitchen, giant rag mop flying about, and a pail full of suds on wheels, with the built in wringer. I have bought several used RVs in the last two decades, and looked at hundreds of others. For me it's real simple, if I even think that it may have water damage, I move on. No rationalizations in my mind that it's "no big deal", no good story from the owner, no salesman telling me that's it's "just cosmetic" no nothing, walk away.
An owner of a repair shop gave me this advice, years ago. He said leaks are like icebergs, you only see a tiny bit on the surface, the real damage is hidden, and it's often huge and ugly. He told me that he occasionally gets a client who asks him to fix "a tiny leak at the shower skylight", or another harmless looking stain from a "small" leak. Once he starts digging, the tiny leak has gone on for years, the bathroom wall is moldy mush, and the floor behind the shower is starting to rot.
The last two replies mention inverters. I would guess that a 25 year old, thirty amp RV has a simple converter, which would have nothing to do with this issue. There is a possibility that the main breaker is failing, and intermittently failing to provide power. If the issues reoccurs, I would check both sides of the breaker with a meter, to confirm that power is actually flowing through the breaker. Remember that this breaker is typically wired backwards, as compared to a typical residential panel. The incoming power wire from the shore cord is attached to the screw lug on the breaker. Power flows through the breaker and feeds the bus bar, which all the branch circuits are attached to. As for a thermal reset, doubtful. As an electrician for 25 years, I have never seen one used in an application like this. A quick search online offers nothing about 120V auto reset thermal breakers used in RVs, except as a component inside of an inverter. If this was an odd situation, where there really is a thermal overload breaker in the 120V system, I would also expect to see a reset button. That said, I've never encountered a non-resettable, thermal only breaker in any 120V system. Not to say that it's never been done, but it sure isn't typical. In this case, I would be real concerned about the integrity of all the 120V connections from the cord cap to the panel box. This could easily be a heat related issue, due to a high resistance connection. I would trace the wiring, and pay particular attention to any connections and splices. The shore cord typically ends in a 4" square junction box, where it converts to 10/2 Romex. I would definitely want to tear into that box and look at condition of the spices. If the 30 amp plug on the cord is a replacement, I would take it apart and check all connections. I would also retighten all the terminal screws in the panel box.
The other issue could be a failing transfer switch, if it has one. On a lot of the older/cheaper units, the transfer switch was an option, and you simply plug the cord into a 30 amp receptacle fed by the generator.
Max, I hope you encourage this customer to have a qualified electrician take a look at the 120V part of her electrical system. I have done a lot of troubleshooting, and repair work, on 120V systems. Problems that "cure" themselves tend to make me nervous.
If you own the house it will NEVER be paid off. I finished making mortgage payment a few years ago but I still owe on it... There are taxes (hundreds to thousands a year)every year, there is insurances, there are utilities, there is repairs, there is yard work, it never ends... that is why a lot of people go with FULLTIME... yea you have bills there also but not as much as owning a S&B/This is true. We have paid everything off as quickly as possible and have paid very little in interest our whole lives.
But - the expenses are still there. I was shocked to find it costs us $10,000 per year to live in our paid off house. Just with taxes, insurance, utilities - the bills just keep coming. And that doesn't even include general upkeep and maintenance. UGH!
It does feel good to have no monthly payments that include interest... For what that's worth. :)
The one huge factor missed by many folks having the "OMG, I can't believe how expensive it is to own a paid off house" conversation is the concept of "lost opportunity cost". That being, what you could be doing with your money if it WASN'T bound up in the value of your paid off house? In my case, that money would be sitting in a mix of Vanguard index funds that have done exceptionally well for me, over the last few years, and have a well documented, long history of returning way more than 3-4%. I live in a rural area of PA. that has seen very little post recession recovery in the real estate market, and appears to be bobbling on the edge of another downturn. If I sell my paid off house and full time, I would be recovering approximately $19K. per year in expenses, and lost opportunity costs. This figure includes the investable proceeds of the sale, and shedding expenses, including extremely high property taxes, HOA dues, homeowner's insurance, snow plowing fees, yard maintenance, and the never ending repair and maintenance costs. We now snowbird, and typically spend several months on the road in spring/summer/fall. Which makes us "3/4 full-timers". At this point the biggest hold up is the wife, who is still on the fence, and fighting the "nesting urge" of wanting a place to call home, no matter how little used, and expensive it might be to keep one. She is coming around, and the house will be listed in a few weeks.:B
If you are serious about Maine, you can find some amazing bargains if you hunt around. For the last few years we stopped to see friends who were mid-coast, a few miles from the water. They stay at a small, yet nice CG that doesn't even have a website, or anybody in the office, most days. They paid $2K for the six month season. I'm sure there are many other opportunities like this in the mid-Atlantic and New England states.
Two pages of comments without the "I've been with X since 1970, and they are great" LOL. My in-laws were of that mindset. The wife fell for it, for a while, but I soon learned the lesson that most here have commented on. We got married young, stuck with the family's agent, and one day it occurred to me. As we were developing a history of safe driving, no claims, and aging out of the higher risk brackets, our rates were increasing substantially. I shopped around and found that we were paying nearly double market price for our coverage. Since then, it's become quite clear that the word "sucker" is totally interchangeable with the phrase, "long term, loyal customer" in the minds of many insurers.
Progessive was the cheapest for us while the kids were teens. They then started the typical steep rate climb, after a few years. We switched to another company, and it dropped by nearly half. Last year the last kid left the nest and our insurance is now dirt cheap, but I'll still have to shop once the inevitable increases start.
I had a loud encounter this past summer with a lowlife, in a small Custer SD. campground. Every morning and evening he would walk his lab to a nearby park and leave several huge piles. At one point he even stood there while the dog left a pile in front of the door of a motorhome parked on the street. When confronted, he told me that there was no local ordinance, an there was nothing anybody could do to stop him.
On another occasion I was checking in to a very small, rural Texas campground. I was a bit surprised to see a flat screen TV, mounted on the wall behind the check-in desk, and facing the customers. It was a split screen, and was showing about eight different video cameras in the campground. The employee saw me watching it and told me that the whole system was installed to keep the park free of dog owners who wouldn't clean up. Prior to that, it was a running battle between management and lazy dog owners. Now they just knock on your door, and tell you they have you on tape, not cleaning up after your dog, and you're out. As in, no refund, no second chance, pack your trash and go. He said that the video system totally eliminated any dog problems in the park.
I'm experiencing deja-vu here - they must have been tweaking the Matrix again...
Seriously, this horse has been so thoroughly beaten that it's nothing but a few broken, dusty bones. I'll continue to ask the same question that I have, for nearly a decade and a half, here on the forum. Where is the proof. Where is the report from any forensic investigator that anybody has ever had an issue at a gas station from a running fridge?
I doubt the magical proof will ever appear, since every vehicle on the road has multiple sources of ignition (starter motor brushes, arcing on plug wires, etc.)and oddly enough, darn few of them blow up after they are refueled............ Now take the alleged fridge ignition source, place it 3-4 feet off the ground, and 30' away from the pump, an explain how that is supposed to be an issue?
Once again those silly science facts get in the way.
Shop fees have been around a long time and will continue to be around for a long time to come. Anyone with half a clue how a shop works realizes, done properly, they are the fairest way to charge for items that are actually used in the repair of a vehicle.
Even though people on the forum contend every time the subject starts that the fees are hidden, I just flat don't believe it! I spent a lifetime in and out of shops and have never seen one that does not disclose shop fees upfront. Either they are clearly disclosed by signage at the point of sale or clearly disclosed in writing on the repair order signed by the consumer. In most all states it is a matter of consumer protection laws governing garages.
Sorry, but little of your statement is based in reality. Shop fees are a profit center that are new to many areas, and illegal in others. They are designed to deceive the customer, and have little to do with cost associated with a repair. Assuming a bit of basic comprehension, even you would agree that a flat percentage of hourly rates for shop fees is nothing but a scam. There are plenty of jobs where the work involves little to nothing used in the way of shop supplies, and fees are added strictly to pad the bill. In decades of paying for repairs I have always legitimately paid for what you describe as "items used to actually do the repair" they are called PARTS, an they show up as an itemized list on the invoice.
Finally, claiming that they are clearly disclosed before the work is done is simply BS. AS I explained in my example, I clearly ASKED a Honda dealer if their quoted price was correct, or if there were any other fees. I was told it was the quoted price, plus state tax. Once the vehicle was on the lift, the ridiculous fees were disclosed. This is far from uncommon.
Shop fees are nothing but fraud, and I do not pay them, period. I needed to do a transmission service on our toad, to protect the warranty. I called dealers and got ridiculous quotes, up to $180 to literally drain and fill 3-4 QTs. of ATF. I found one to do the work at $99. I asked if there were any fees, and was told that it was $99 plus state sales tax. The car was in the service bay, on the lift, when the "service advisor" tells me that the total will be $136. Which breaks down to $99 for the work, a huge "shop fee" and sales tax. I told him that it was going to be $105.93, or they needed to get the thing to the front door, since I'm leaving. They then decided that as a "good will gesture" they could find it in their generous hearts to actually take fifteen minutes and install $30 worth of trans. fluid for the $99 they quoted. Screw shop fees and the thieves that charge them.
When it comes to having anything done at any of the mega-dealers, I'll never darken their doors. They need $120-150 Hour to keep that circus operating. The mechanic doing the work gets a tiny fraction of that, the balance is for all the other garbage that contributed absolutely nothing to having your vehicle serviced, or repaired. You pay for everything from the fifteen million dollar building to the CEO's salary. If I can't fix it, or install it myself, which is less than 10% of what I encounter, I either call a local mobile service, that gets half the hourly fee of the circus clowns, and does better, faster work. Or, it ends up at our local independent car and truck repair shop, where I know it will be repaired correctly, within a few days, and cost 1/2 of what the circus charges.
You will be fine. I towed this EXACT combination for tens of thousands of miles, with zero issues. I had the same Tahoe, same drivetrain, including the rears, and another brand of trailer that was the same length, and within a few pounds on the dry weight. I bought the truck used, and immediately added air bags to the rear, and swapped the tires out for E rated LT truck tires. Having owned several Tahoes and Suburbans, I always get rid of the light duty tires and put the air bags on, it makes a huge difference. It is a great combination and should serve you well, including climbing hills, where you won't beat any diesels, but it will get you to the other side with no drama. Good luck.
We had a great trade in offer from a well regarded Flagstaff dealer. The next issue was finding a model to fit our needs. We looked at four or five likely units, all brand new. Two of the five had had active roof leaks, one had a ridiculously loud groaning squeak while walking through it, and another had a water filter hidden behind a wall, in the front storage compartment You literally had to crawl in, and use a screw gun to disassemble the wall to change the filter. The larger slides on every unit had roofs that were sagging visibly, with the interior header trim drooping in the middle.
We bought a Jayco.
Given the price of a replacement hitch receiver, I can't imagine that any competent shop would want to waste the time, and assume the liability of repairing a damaged one. I would also want to be assured that the frame is still dead straight, and within factory specs. I would find it hard to believe that you have an undamaged frame at this point.
Whatever trailer you get, make sure that your vehicle can safely stop the trailer without overheating the brakes, especially in hilly country. A van will have no trouble pulling a trailer. But the braking is a different issue.
Talk about a wrong concept that just won't die. I can't count how many times this misinformation gets posted, here and all over the place. If you are relying on ANY tow vehicle to provide braking duties for any trailer over a very modest weight (1500lbs in many states) you are not only breaking the law, you are exceeding the capacities of the tow vehicle, and you are endangering yourself and others. That's not much of a problem, however, since the trailer is equipped with it's own brakes, and stops itself, assuming that the operator is smart enough to use a properly functioning brake controller.
Posts, numbering in the hundreds over the years here, have all made the same ridiculous claim. " Well you might be able to pull the thing, but can you stop it with those obviously inadequate brakes on your ( pick one...... SUV, van, pick-up, etc....) Unbelievable.
I agree with the OP. I sold two very clean, 3-4 year old trailers in the past. I paid roughly 75% of MSRP and sold them for 60%. Both sold within a few days, to VERY happy buyers. Everybody that looked commented about the overpriced junk they were finding on most dealer's lots. The most entertaining part was a family that showed up and really wanted the trailer, badly. The husband was a real idiot. He had this sneering, tough guy attitude, and told me what I would be selling it for. Since his "offer" was a few bucks under what I was asking, I suppressed my urge to tell him to buzz off. He then tells me that there will be no deposit, and I will be holding it until he will be back, with cash, in a week. Within a few hours I had another buyer for full price, and $500 in cash in my pocket. Over the coming week, I took a bunch of calls from disappointed shoppers and took phone numbers from them, as back-up. By the next weekend, I had been paid in full, the trailer was with it's happy new family, and tough guy has his wife call to tell me when we were closing the deal. I laughed, said it sold for full price a few hours after they left, and it's gone.