RE: Personal RV Travel blogs
We use email to send photos and let everyone know what is going on in our daily life whether on the road or at home. We had an MSN groups site but we had a devil of a time getting people to join in the conversation or take the time to even visit the site so we ditched that site and use email. Its much easier and we know for certain our select group of family and friends receive your messages and see our photos. You might consider this method instead of maintaining a website.
RE: am i being too picky ?
If you expect perfection from most new motorhomes then you'll be saddly and hugely disappointed. Many are made very well but there will be little issues until you get through that 1st long list taken care of. It helps to be a handyman or have a manufacturer who is willing to go back and do all that.
After you get used to your coach and have driven it a while things will change. You'll either forget about perfection or be driven crazy. Being that you live in it or at least spend a lot of time in it and take it down the road countless thousands of miles...stuff will continue to crop up!
After 7 years our coach has a long list of issues that have been taken care of, more are born daily and enough battle scars to make an athelete proud!
It happens -- a scratch here, a ding here, a nick there, a blow-out, a major piece falling off, a rock in the windshield, pits in the front from gravel, millions of bugs splattered on your nose, wind damage to awnings, hail storms to knock out skylights, snow storms to rip slide awnings, road gators to take off your jacks, picnic tables to run over, trees to scrape, pot holes to drop into, if you don't have full body paint -- decals will start to peel & fade, window weep holes will clog and cause a leak inside, bay doors can get out of alignment and leak when driving in a heavy rainstorm, tires will blow out and cause major body damage, brakes will rust and squeek like mad, and the list goes on and on.
After a while you develop a sense of humor and learn to just keep working on it and love the coach despite the scars! It rather reminds me of how someone refered to his MGB as an ongoing project not a car! Don't let it drive you crazy...learn to laugh and love it!!!!
RE: New Format
Okay, maybe I'll throw a monkey wrench into the deal...I see no big difference or am I missing something!? The tips column is new, the ads were there before. The webpage site, at least on my browser, seems to look and operate about the same as ususal. The clicky to go back to previous or on to next page is there. I'm not having to scroll to the top of the page...
So, my vote is -- it's fine with me. The only complaint I have is the dull gray color theme -- spice it up with some color!
RE: WHAT'S YOUR IDEAL MOTOR HOME / RV CAMP GROUND.......
Everyone's preference will of course be different with some obvious essential needs...
We like to see RV parks that have pull through sites that are larger than normal width-wise. I know it's not economically sound to spread out all sites but for long-term/seasonal use -- I think most RVers would agree "they want more space"! Therefore I think for short-term/overnight stays it's perfectly acceptable to have smaller pull-throughs but for other guests -- offer sites that are almost like a permanent home with lots of grass (in approraite region of the country); a concrete, gravel or wood deck; full hook-up connections (with some sort of blind or diversion to keep them out of sight from neighbors); plenty of room to park a toad &/or trailer...
Part of snowbirding or traveling is getting to know the neighbors but if sites are too close together in a tight RV park -- you can hear thier radio &/or TV, almost watch movies through thier windows and hear the dogs barking.
We don't need a pool, golf course, tennis court, large shopping centers nearby,etc. I know many people who snowbird prefer to not have to leave thier resort much but I think it does folks good to get out and tourist around the area and purchase from local merchants. Just my opinion...
It is nice to have a restroom/shower & laundry close by to ease RV owners time from having to dump and clean thier own onboard facilities.
One of the most important things for an RV park -- QUIET! All these parks that are within 1/4 mile or less of a busy highway/Interstate or near a railroad is quite annoying! We've been to parks that had 2 interstate highways and a railroad -- totally maddening! Long term guests won't go for that and is acceptable only for one night stays yet even for just one night while on the road -- a lot of noise does not make for a good night's sleep!
Another important issue -- allow wider access roads and wider turning radiuses without obstacles. Most of us are good at manuvering tight RV parks but still -- you see posts run over, trees scraped, motorhomes damaged, toads wrecked...There are always cars parked in the roads making things difficult too. So driveways should be about 50% wider.
I know making an RV park with larger sites, wider roads - eats into profits by creating fewer spaces therefore increasing cost of space price and need to have a larger RV, equally more taxes but...in some ways -- it sure would be nice! Am I day dreaming?!
Would I pay slightly more to have the ideal large quiet site -- YES! Will I pay extra for other ammenties -- NO -- space and quiet win out!
I agree with BarbaraOK about the Brickyard Plantation in Americus, GA. We've been there 3 times since we have an aunt who lives in Americus. It's plain, simple, quiet and enjoyable! The only complaint I have about the place -- We could not drink the water -- all of us onboard got tummy trouble, including the pets from drinking thier water. And the golf course across the road is great!
RE: Where to start - Part II
Pictures are maybe worth a thousand words but when it comes to buying anything -- not as much...See it in person with a qualified person who can spot problems.
Go down to tour & inspect the coach but do yourself a favor and also visit a large dealership to look at similar models on their lot.
If the coach is owned by the original owner, ask for all service/repair records.
When you inspect the coach take a very detailed look at it -- into all the nooks, crannies, lower bays, back of cabinets, under the bed to check for possible water damage, loose items, etc. It's helpful to check around all windows to see if water has been leaking in (look for dirty carpet underneith windows). Another important area to check -- open up side panel so you can see under toilet to be sure it has not been leaking. A leak is not always obvious from topside. Run all faucets, and you may think this is nuts -- actually sit on the toilet to see if it wobbles (a wobbly toilet could mean it's loose on the floor flange therefore leaking), run every system you can touch. Be sure to start and run generator and run both AC units after it warms up to be sure it will take a load. Check bank of batteries - check age, condition and if they are holding a charge (check for obvious signs signs of corrosion). Continue detailed checking and running things until you've put the whole rig through it's paces so you know all appliances run in all modes. Check date and condition of tires. Tires, at near or older than 5 years may not have much life left in them.
Last but not least -- run the engine and take it for a long drive. It's very important you drive the coach to see if it's comfortable to you. Every coach handles and rides slightly differently so when you visit the dealerships -- test drive some of those too.
If you follow all those steps you should be able to form a good judgement about a coach. If you can take someone with you who is at least a seasoned RVer better yet a professional you should be able to thoroughly assess the unit.
After you have bought a coach the fun and learning begins. I highly suggest both you and your wife take a driving coarse and attend some seminars given at RV rallies to fill in all the knowledge gaps. You'll find these big rigs easier to drive than you think but they do take considerably more concentration than driving a small car!
RE: replacing RV refrigerator with household frig
I think residential/AC run refrigerators are wonderful for fulltimers who will be plugged in all the time. I also agree that a large unit can only be placed in the coach while it's being built. A 30" or less door openning limits your refrigerator choices! Then there are all the mods -- larger inverter, more batteries, possibly modifying circuits, and resale (some RVers still want 2 or 3 way frige).
I'd say unless you are willing to do a lot of work and compromise on a refrigerator -- not worth the time, effort and money.
Most people here think it is the way to go...the main consideration -- your RViing lifestyle and door openning size.
RE: I'm new here and have a few questions....
Huffa -- you can indeed use electric heaters to keep the inside warmer but not for your main heat source in extreme cold! In our coach the way the circuits are run we can only run 1 electric heater on a circuit or you'll blow breakers. A motorhome isn't wired like a house to take on a lot of applicance on at the same time. Check out your breaker panel to see how many circuits you have and what thier capacity is. And with all that power usage you'll definitely have to be plugged into the rigs required power cable -- either 30 or 50 AMP. An electrician can install a plug at the house.
The only way to keep your holding tanks (black, grey and fresh) and the lines running in the belly of the rig from freezing is to run your propane heat! Without it in below freezing temps -- the water system could freeze solid. Even with propane lower bay heat -- sometimes people need to add a drop light or electric heat in the water/pump bay to keep the pump or lines from freezing (we do when temp drops below the teens).
We live in cold country year round. We are hooked to a residential size tank, which will last us about 1/2 the winter. We tried running off the onboard tank and a 100 pounder but...we could only get by a week on either! And, you can run off BBQ size tanks but you'll be refilling every few days! No matter what -- you'll either be running to refil small bottles twice per week or refilling a 100 pounder every couple of weeks. Your best option would be to find the largest propane tank or two of them to use for heating and find a way to get them filled as needed. Many mobile propane delivery companies will refill in some areas but usually don't like to deliver unless you are purchasing at least 200 gallons at a time. If your parents run off propane it should be easy to get that amount at the time they fill thiers but you'll need to be filled more often so you have some details to work out.
I suggest you do a search on this site for winter RVing tips and read up thoroughly. There's a ton of info on here to let you know what you'll be in for in winter in cold country. Living in an RV in winter in sub-zero is a challenge and if you don't take all the steps needed ....the coach will freeze up and you'll get mighty cold!
It could be your best option would be to do as we did our 1st season parked here -- we winterized the fresh water system (put socks over all the faucets so we remember not to use them) and used the house for showers and dish washing, filled water bottles to flush the toilet and for drinking, hand washing and teeth brushing. It worked out ok that way and gave us peace of mind that the water system was ok. We did have to get a "blue boy" to dump the tanks once per week. But if you are good about using the house for bathroom visits as often as possible you can get black tank (toilet water) dumping down to periodically. If the holding tanks freeze solid though...they won't dump! A full holding tank is less likely to freeze than one with only a little water except in extreme weather then all bets are off!
Do your research and you can work into a way to live in the coach where you wish to. I'd also do a search to find out how to winterize your coach just in case, in the middle of winter you get into a fix and need to hurry up and do it! Been there done that!!!
good luck
RE: PLEASE TELL ME WHY I SHOULD JOIN FMCA?
We joined FMCA & thier largest subchapter FCOC when we bought the coach 7 years ago. In that time period we attended 1 FMCA rally in Perry, GA and 2 FCOC rallies.
The huge Perry gathering was interesting, great entertainment and hundreds of vendors.
The FCOC rallies had wonderful seminars and a nice small group for making new friends.
The magazine is a showplace for the high dollar rigs, a full review of a new coach and some interesting articles.
Try the membership for 1 year and see if you like it.
For us -- we are no longer active members in FMCA or FCOC - the rally scene isn't our thing, the magazine a quick read and hits the trash.
RE: Thinking of selling my coach...Am I stupid?
I think you need to do what your gut tells you is right. Weigh your financial options carefully. This financial mess we are in may not be over yet! Considering your coach is smaller than the new one...it may be tough to let the newer coach go...I agree with Mr. Mark's idea to go fulltime in your current paid for coach, see how that goes then trade later. I'd be sure your current coach is not on the verge of some high dollar maintenance issues.
We are in a similar situation -- we have a 2002 that is paid for...we have decided we'll keep our coach.
None of us know what tomorrow will bring. Health, financial, or family situations can change at the drop of a hat...choose wisely! Good luck!
RE: Up sizing or Down sizing
We bought a 38' in 2002. When/if we sell the coach we will downsize for a couple of reasons:
The larger you go the more stuff you will be tempted to haul around. We would be better off if we got rid of stuff rather than added more space to fill up and believe me you will cram in as much as the coach will hold!
A smaller rig will allow us more flexability in the places we choose to go.
We would think about the new Tiffin coach about to be released -- a small DP called the Breeze.
RE: Overhead fluorescent light not working - fix??
It could indeed be the starter/ballast. However I'd 1st check out the wiring to be sure it's not a faulty switch, broken wire, etc. To do that you will need to know a bit about wiring troubleshooting. Therefore you will have to trust your DIY level in this area or find someone to help you with it. Find out for sure exactly what is wrong before you go out and buy new parts or a fixture.
RE: Tires
I'd not tow a corvette behind a motorhome! Even if the RV driver is very careful "Toads" can sometimes get hurt -- get bounced over curbs, hit pot holes the coach missed but the car found, hit by rocks, and worse -- covered with diesel exhaust!
We towed our Chevy S-10 for years -- the diesel exhaust &/or weird wind turbulance behind the coach -- did a number on the clear coat on the bed topper! Now we are towing a Malibu -- and for some reason diesel exhaust is getting into the interior coating it with the black junk...So far we've been unable to find out where but we think it goes in from the vent system.
A Corvette would best be towed in a covered trailer! You'd be just sick if that baby got messed up!
RE: Front door on DP limiting the view?
For sight seeing the TV might pose a slight reduction in view but when seated it's not been an issue. If you have good mirrors the entry door isn't any worse than if it were a regular wall. A helpful look out in the co-pilot's seat watches for anything the driver cannot see with the mirrors. In fact with our entry door we have a small window at the bottom of the door that will allow view low and to the right of the coach unless the step well cover is closed.
The worst things about a front TV -- can't easily view it from the couch without hurting one's neck and the head bumping danger when entering the coach. Anyone not used to a front TV - when entering will hit thier head at least once!
I'd not worry about either the TV or the door. You'll get used to both. Buy the coach you like the best.
RE: Michelin Steps Up
Our Michelin tires were 2002s also. At 5 years & 50,000 miles we had a rear inside dual blow out. A Discount Tire manager talked to Michelin and we indeed got a very good price on a whole new set. Only one of our outer tires showed a couple of minor cracks. The one that blew out looked fine. I'm wondering if maybe in 2002 they had a bad batch!
RE: Best Way to Heat the RV
Diplomat Don is absolutely correct - using the heat pump/AC unit on the opposite end of the coach will help supply even heat &/or cooling. However -- at least on our coach heat pump units will not be totally effective in severely cold weather. On our coach - below about 40 degrees - the heat pump may come on but the gas furnace will also come on because the heat pumps, even with the heat strip are not effective for really cold weather. If your outdoor temp is cool but not cold I'd certainly consider using the heat pumps to save propane if you have power hook-ups.
RE: flooring
I fully agree with other posters that some vinyl flooring products are superior to laminate for care, ease of installation, and for our 4 footed friends. When we replace our motorhome flooring we instend to use vinyl planks that look like wood or stone.
RE: I'm new here and have a few questions....
It sounds like you have your eye on looking at a good quality coach. You should be able to find one to fit your needs.
I have a couple of suggestions/comments:
I agree with another poster -- in cold weather you'll be into some serious winter challenges in that area. Do a search on this site to read up on some helpful winter RVing info. You will need a large propane tank for heat, run a 50AMP line for power, have water and sewer dump handy.
Also be sure any city or neighborhood ordinances or covents allow an RV to be lived in or even parked in a driveway long term. Many areas have laws against it. I'd hate to see you decide to do this and find out after the fact -- it's not doable.
Also be aware that fulltime living in a parked coach that is meant to be on the road from time to time to keep everything running properly can cause damage. Take the rig out on the road and enjoy it as often as you can!
Your plan overall is a good idea. I hope you find a wonderful coach you'll really enjoy!
We've spent alot of time in the driveways of family and friends and found those spots to be our favorite campsites!
RE: Rope Lightinig
Many manufacturers used rope type lighting in many places in coaches. The bulbs can be replaced in some. Some are like typical holiday lights inside plastic tubing with bulbs that can be replaced. You'll have to inspect your particular tube light to see if your's have replacable bulbs. You have to split the casing and change the bulb. You may be able to glue the slit closed again to prevent water and dirt from getting into the tube. If a whole section burns out due to faulty wiring the whole piece may have to be replaced, something someone with electrical knowledge may be able to do but if someone does not feel confident to do so...might require a professional to wire in a new section. These days rope lights can come with LED bulbs, much cooler burning and more energy efficient. Home improvement and hardware stores carry the parts you'll need to complete repairs.
RE: Best Way to Heat the RV
True consistant heat is somewhat hard to achieve in some coaches & in some climate conditions. In floor heating is supposed to be the most effcient. Propane forced air furnaces can be drafty and either run too long or not long enough and will dry out the air and fill the air with lots of dust. Try setting your furnaces to a temp that is easy to achieve without the unit running too much and run an electric heater in the cooler area (usually up front near the dash/entry door). In the most severe conditions set furnace to run enough to keep water bays from freezing and run electric heat to take the chill of those cold spots. Don't guess - know -- install weather station temp sensors in the water bay so it takes away the guessing.
It could be you need to relocate or change out your thermostat -- a poorly placed thermostat unit can create the situation you spoke of. Our back furnace seems to hold temp quite well but our front zone is monitored from above the entry door. With a unit mounted on an outside wall the thermometer has no idea what the real indoor temp is!
Beyond that...it really depends on the temps you are living &/or traveling in. In a mild climate simple adjustments may help. In a severe winter environment it is tough to stay in the comfort zone. Dress in layers and have a blanket handy.
We have set our front and back temps at no higher than 65 in our dryer than dust climate and run a cool mist humidifer non-stop to keep the humidity levels indoors at or above 30%. A higher heat setting can burn up the air excessively and keep the temp too warm. The bigger the difference between the indoor desired temp and true outdoor temp is what makes the biggest difference. Relative humidity also plays a big role. In a damp climate you may actually have to dehumidify. Use a humidistat to know for sure.
Outside walls in really cold weather can be very cold to the touch. With wind...it gets worse close to windows & doors. To prevent drafts -- close curtains &/or blinds on the cool/non-sunny side of the coach. Block off step well or cover entry door well. The entry door and step well are the coldest place in the coach as a general rule.
When driving you will notice it is more difficult to keep the coach warm. Cold wind will pull heat out of any object it touches and will be forced into any and all air leak spots no matter how slight. Pipes, pump and tanks that are fine while sitting still at temps well below freezing can freeze while underway. (we've had it happen many times). Your pipes should be ok with heat running into bays at temps down to about 20 degrees F. Below that -- all bets are off -- just keep the furnace going and run the faucets once an hour. I'd not keep a faucet dripping as all you'll do is fill your waste tanks.
When parked in super cold weather add a drop light to water bay, keep bay door shut tight, add insulation to "water drain sink/bowl", only fill and drain tanks as needed then stow until next fill/dump.
If you will be in a mild climate I doubt you'll have the danger of freezing the pipes but the coach may still feel cooler. We run the house furnace as well as dash heat when driving.
There are many posts on this site about winter heating/travel. Do a search and read for hours!
Once you have all that info -- you should have a good winter traveling experience!
RE: What do you do if severe weather hits while camped?
Most RV parks either have some sort of storm stucture or they can direct you to one. Ask them. Many times thier restrooms or office are substantial enough to be safer than your coach. If you are on the road and hear warnings try to avoid the storm warning area for a while. If you are already in that area, parked -- I'd not take the coach out to try to outrun it. Storms are very unpredictable.
We were actually in an RV park in Kansas when the radio went off with a tornado watch. The RV park did indeed have a concrete storm shelter!
The biggest problem with NOAA weather forecasting is the warnings and watches are announced for counties. It's therefore a good idea to have a map handy to know what county you are in and the surrounding county locations & names.
No matter what time of year be prepared for anything. Most of the time the best advice is to use good common sense and be patient.
