If they drop the Navistar engines, they could again be a contender. But any company that is on its third owner in four years has a lot to prove.There are no more Navistar engines. their design is what broke them. Warranty cost on their OTR truck engines is humongous.
This is just not factual no matter how you view Navistar. The MF7, MF10 are both EPA certified without DCF. The MF13 has just been certified with DCF.
Had heard that NavistarRV was searching for a buyer. I am shocked that the parent company of Fleetwood would be interested. We'll see how it goes.
Iam not but what shocks me is where they got the money to buy the line.Fleetwood was for the most part bankrupt just a few short years ago and had to downsize and resturcture
In point of fact, Fleetwood did file bankruptcy and was bought and is currently owned by the same private equity group that has now bought Navisart RV ( AKA Monaco). Fleetwood did not purchase Monaco, the owners of Fleetwood did.
I've had a Class C Winnebago View for the last few years and have loved it, but am looking to start full-time RVing soon and want to move up to a shorter used DP rig (I'm a solo RVer).
I'm ideally trying to find a rig about 7-10 yrs old that is 35' or less. The 2 top contenders are the Winnebago Journey (34H), or a 34' Holiday Rambler Neptune (34PDD or 34SBD).
I'm most familiar with Winnebago so sticking with them would be most comfortable way to go, but I'm worried about a few potential short-comings vs the Holiday Rambler, namely, the basement A/C and the Cat engine (vs. the HR's rooftop AC, additional basement storage space, and Cummins engine).
On the other hand, I'm not sure what service limitations there might be with older HR/Monacos due to legacy Monaco being bought out by Navistar (i.e. access to coach parts or Roadmaster chassis parts?).
Any feedback from those who have owned either one?
I full time in a Monaco coach and since I've had a wonderful experience, I'm partial to them. Be aware however, the Neptune was built on the Roadmaster 4 airbag chassis and that chassis had some serious problems. You will be much better served to look for a coach built on the 8 air bag chassis generally called the RR8R or RR8S chassis.
If you have a 50 amp RV, spring for the 50 amp autoformer. You can still adapt it down to 30 amp. Trust me 50 amp service can suffer from low voltage on one or both legs also. Better to be safe than sorry. You might want to think about hard wiring it in that way if you get to a park that does not want you using the autoformer it is not sitting out in the open. Also less chance it will grow legs and take a walk.
I agree with this post on all points. I also have both a Progressive and a Huges.
As has been stated, there is no test that the average motor home owner can do to determine if you have Dexron or Transynd. An oil sample sent to a reputable lab can tell for you. Now, if you're relatively sure you've got Dexron, and, want to change to Transynd, then here is the procedure direct from a member on here and, IRV2, who was instrumental in the development of test procedures for many Dexron products and, synthetic products including Transynd.
This is a fairly expensive way to do it but, it's the way, according to him, that many of the service centers do it.
1. Drain existing trans fluid completely and DO NOT CHANGE FILTERS AT THIS TIME!!!
2. Replace with Transynd an equal amount of fluid.
3. Drive your motor home for a minimum of around 30 - 45 minutes, letting it shift as often as possible.
4. Drain all that fluid out, remove filters.
5. Install new filters and, replace with NEW TRANSYND again to correct level.
You are wasting money by replacing filters on the first change. By only driving around 30-45 minutes, that, according to him, is plenty of time the first round of Transynd to start to replace the exiting Dexron. Then, with the second round of Transynd, the experts say that, the tiny bit remaining Dexron, will have no effect on the operational characteristics of the new Transynd. And, after you've done the second round of Transynd, you're good for right at 100K miles before needing another trans fluid change. I'll try and find his member user name and repost so you can see all he has to say about Transynd and other important data on other fluids including Dexron.
That is all good information and spot on. The only thing that I would add is that you are good for the long extended fluid change, IF, and this is a major IF, you do not overheat the fluid. If during a long climb up a steep mountain road, pulling a toad or trailer, and you seriously overheat the transmission fluid, then the life of your Transynd will drop to maybe only a few thousand miles. On some transmissions there is a sensor to monitor transmission fluid temperature. I have a sensor on my Allison transmission and I would know in an instance if I overheat my fluid enough to affect the fluid life.
This caveot is one of many reasons to do an annual sample test of your fluid.
If there is any chance the fluid was changed at some point in its life to Transynd, then you could pull a fluid sample and send for testing. There is no test for Transynd but since the fluid has not been changed in the last year, if the viscosity is still above 7 with little sign of oxidation then you probably have Transynd. If that's the case just change the filters, top up the fluid and test again in a year.
If you're pretty sure you have DexIII then do a fluid/filter change and a year or so down the road do the fluid/filter change again. You will then be good for 3 years on the filter at which time I would test the fluid again. The Transynd will probably be good for a long time with just a top up when you change filters every 3 years.
We spent the month of July in Elkhart in 2011 having interior remodeling done. We are full timers and use our coach 24/7/365. We had the complete floor covering replaced, a residential frig put in. We have a custom cherry credenza built and installed in place of a sofa. The other side J sofa was replaced with a queen sleeper sofa.
We had Master Tech RV do the work and their workmanship and professionalism was outstanding. We stayed in the coach all but 3 nights during the remodel. Call Jack Harris at 866-895-4556 or 574-320-0163.
so do I take that conection apart and spray or something else?
Yes, take it apart and spray liberally with WD40 and plug the connectors in and out several times. Shake both connectors out and re plug. This is a known issue with the Onan QD line and perhaps others.
Yes, this is most likely a battery issue. Can you get the generator started? If so start the generator and set the generator remote to the highest amp level which is probably 30 amp. This will allow max current to the battery charger side of the invertor. Put a volt/ ohm meter on both banks of batteries. You should see well over 13 VDC on both battery banks. It may take a few minutes of charging time before the charge circuit closes and the chassis batteries start getting a charge. Those are the one that you have to get built up for the engine and transmission to function properly.
Don't rush. Give it a couple of hours charge time before you try to start. Make sure the battery cells have water over the plates before starting to charge if they are flooded cell. Also the battery connections are clean.
I am new to RVing. I have trouble driving in tight, curved spaces - like pulling up to a gas pump in my 35' motorhome with a tow attached. With my mirrors, I can see down the sides beyond the driver's and co-pilot's seats, but can't see what is in front of that. I recently hit a concrete pole near the gas pump with my awning strut and couldn't move forward to fill up (Of course I was towing and couldn't back up either - my worst nightmare! Then it took two nice gentlemen and a crowbar to detach my Jeep! - aaaggghhh! If you are reading this, guys, many thanks!!!!).
Is there any type of device or camera that can view the entire side of your motorhome and check your driving range - possibly an after market proximity sensor or a couple of small cameras?
Please don't tell me I just need more practice driving. I need help now before I need to get gas again! :-)
Thanks for your help! srq suzanne
1. You are close to Lazy Days. Go over and take their RV driving course. It's very basic but it gives you some excellent pointers which you can then expand on.
2. Once you have taken the course, find a big, open, parking lot that is not used on some day of the week and take some traffic cones to arrange as lanes and practice.
In general pick fuel locations when you don't have to turn sharply close to the fuel island to line up with the pumps. You are driving a class a so the steer axle is further back toward the drivers steer than a car and you must pull further forward before starting a turn.
I've never understood why anyone (other than the owner of the private property) care how long I park/stay there. Why does anyone care if I camp in a Wal-Mart? Why does anyone else care if I put out lawn chairs? What possible difference does it make to "you"? I'm not hurting or hindering you in ANY way. Why do "you" care?
I'm serious, I really want to know why. For those of you who think "I" shouldn't be allowed to do these thing, I honestly ask why?
BTW, I have never stayed the night at a Wal-Mart, and likely never will. I have parked in a parking lot in the MH and slept once, but that was because I couldn't figure out how to pay for the CG and I was arriving at mid-night. I didn't want to disturb anyone and only needed to park and sleep, so I just parked in a parking lot instead.
I really don't think these forum posts are to imply that you shouldn't do these things because for some reason they want to control you.
The fear is, that the more people who are parked at Walmart do that looks to passers by that people are "camping" there, the more likely it becomes that we will, in time, lose this valuable choice.
I have spent many nights at Walmarts. I don't extend my slides. I don't put down jacks and extend awnings. If there is trash around I pick up some. I always try to thank a member of the local management for the hospitality.
No one here can tell you haw to conduct yourself, but if you behave badly or call negative attention to yourself then you certainly have the potential to impact the rest of us.
We are staying at a festival ground that allows us to plug into their power pole. The pedestal does not have 50 amp RV plugs. Instead it has a 60 amp plug. Specifically it has a 14-60R. Is there an adapter?? can I build an adapter easily? I suppose what i need is a 14-60P to a 14-50R. help.
ON EDIT: volt meter reads 2 legs of 120V, on a double pole 60 amp breaker.
It would be pretty straight forward to make yourself up an adaptor. If their 14-60P is wired as it should be then each hot leg will be 120 vac. The flat connector at the bottom will be neutral and the round or U shaped at the top will be ground. The connectors should measure 240 between the two hot legs and 120 from each hot to neutral and ground. Zero voltage between ground and neutral. Same drill as our standard 50 amp RV plug. It will just take a short length of 6 gauge wire and two connectors. The breaker at the supply end are 60 amp but your coach is protected by your breakers and there is less danger than a 30 amp service using an adaptor to 50 amp.
When you call Monaco with the last 6 of the VIN for parts/service/info they are very good at helping... even on units much older than a 09. Doubt you will have any warranties left on any items on a 09 regardless of which company made it.
X2! My coach is 10 years old this year and Navistar never made a dime off it. I had an electrical issue last week and their tech support was very helpful to me in tracking it down. They had the schematics and the tech walked me through troubleshooting and I found a loose connector. Pretty good service on a 10 year old coach built by someone else.
If a person buys a Monaco motorhome made before March 2009, The bankrupsy date I think, will there be no warrenty at all? I am going to look at an Executive and and trying to find if it was built before or after that date.
If the little sticker by the entry door says "manufactured by Monaco RV, LLC" then it's a Navistar coach. However I think any Monaco provided warrantee would be over by now. Some of the components would still be covered by manufacturer warrantees. The engine & transmission both are covered by 5 year warrantees.
I recently purchased a used class A motor home from a local dealership. On my first trip I found some paperwork from the previous owner showing some of the information I was told about my coach was incorrect. The biggest thing is the engine size...I was told I was buying a 300 Cummins and its actually a 275. Do I have any recourse with this dealership and the false presentation of this coach, or am stuck with a vehicle that I may find other things to have been misrepresented? I live in California, so if any of you knows of a similar situation could you please offer some advice? Thank you in advance for any help you can offer.
In terms of engine size (displacement) the 275 hp and 300 hp are the same engine and most likely have the same torque rating. I believe you will find that it's a Cummins ISB or B5.9 depending on if its an electronic engine or mechanical. The Cummins B engine has been rated from 230 up to 340 hp over its life and is probably one of the most successful Diesel engines in modern history. It also is the most economical and you should see 9-10 mpg if driven conservatively. Get your engine number and call Cummins or join the Cummins Quick Serve web site and you will learn all about the engine. Bottom line, in a motorhome a 25 hp difference is not measurable.
The mirror base is a cast aluminum part. The only way I'm aware of to remove it is first. Take it off the body of the coach which means removing the 4 big bolts in the base. Then you will most likely have to dismantle the large electrical connector that goes through the assembly that controls the mirror functions. Make yourself a diagram when you take it apart or take a couple of good pics so the reassembly will go ok. When you get it off you will see how it has to be rotated to remove the mirror arm.
It's not complicated just tedious.