Could be the voltage regulator. Had same symptoms on a Onan 5000 a couple of years ago and that was the fix.
If you post the brand, size/model number you will get a lot of good troubleshooting tips.
Onan 8KW. Are you referring to the voltage regulator on the genset itself?
When you checked for incoming power to the transfer switch from the genset, did you read two legs of 120 volts to the neutral from the genset?
Did you check for two legs of 120 volts leaving the transfer switch going to the 120 volt distribution panel?
What is make and model of genset. Is it 120/240 or two legs of 120?
Does the rig have an energy management system?
Generator is a Onan 8KW.
It's two legs of 120. Tested both legs coming in from genset and it's good. Nothing coming out to panel. This was happening both with the old, and now new transfer switch.
Coach does have a energy management system and it shows no power to the coach unless it's hooked up to shore power.
Weird thing is that after not working on the genset, he will drive the coach, park, and fire the genset and it will work for a period of time and then quit producing power. Again, all breakers are good and haven't tripped.
Helping a buddy work on his Coach. Thought he was having a problem with his Transfer Switch because he has power when hooked up to 50 amp Shore, but when dry camping the genny will provide power sometimes and then nothing. All breakers are good, both on the genny and in the coach.
Tested the power to the transfer switch and it's good, so assumed that the switch just wasn't flipping over to provide power to the service panel. Replaced the Transfer Switch and the problem didn't go away. Still have genny power at the switch, but nothing into the Coach.
What are we missing here?
Getting ready to replace my friends Transfer Switch on his 2007 Beaver Contessa Class A. The new unit has a caution warning on the cover which states that the unit should not be mounted face down or parallel with the earth. It looks like every model out there has this warning. Problem is The old unit is mounted face/cover down and there is no wiggle room to reroute the existing wiring.
Can someone tell me what the issue is with mounting the unit face down?:h
Try Alliance Coach in Wildwood, Fl. It's right off the Fla Turnpike. It used to be a Monaco Factory Service Center, then when Monaco filed bankruptcy and closed it, the employyes bought it and re-opened. I'm sure they can do the work, and I am planning on having them install one for me. I know several people who have done this conversion, and most opted for a Samsung 197, which is almost a perfect swap "size-wise"
Friend of mine had Alliance install his residential back in March, they did a great job. Also, I believe he said they have RV sites for you to stay in. They will roll you into the shop during the day, and back out at night if their not done.
I am looking to buy one of two mh. One is a 03 holiday rambler 38' and thr other is a 03 american revolution. Both appear equal in condition, have about 55k miles and are priced at $55K. Is there any major difference in reputation for problems or is it just a matter of the picking the desired layout?
The American coach is a model. Holiday Rambler is a line of motorhomes. In '03 Monaco/Holiday Rambler was at the top of their game. My wife and I have lived full time in a Monaco coach for going on 7 years now. If its a Navigator or Imperial then you won't find a better coach.
At 10 years of age, the real question is, which has had better maintence?
American Coach is the high end line for Fleetwood. Revolution is the model. As far as which one is better it depends on which HR model.
How do you know the grey is not full?
When my grey is full, the shower (lowest) is the first to fill up. If I use sinks the water will flow just fine, but the shower tub will be filling higher while the sinks drain. Sounds like your grey tank IS full.
The grey dump sounds similar to mine. I always thought it was rushing at first cause it was full, then it slows, then the one way air vent kicks in (under the sink) and makes a big gas release sound ........anyway, your sounds just like mine
Maybe check those one way air valves under sinks?
I've started with the tank empty and filled the tank from the kitchen sink. When my gauge gets to half full, I have nothing coming up through the shower. When I continue to fill my gauge will go full, and then it will begin to fill the shower.
OP stated that he can fill the remaining half tank through the kitchen sink with a garden hose. That would eliminate this possibility.
OP...can you take a toilet plunger and "push" the water in the shower down into the tank?...does it stay in the tank, or return up into the shower back to the same level?
Check for this. The sinks especially the kitchen could be routed to the black tank. These coach manufacturers have a way of doing things to suit themselves during construction like routing sinks to black water due to its location. Closest tank gets the job. Black of course will be located as close as possible to the toilet and many times right under it. The grey water tank will be as close as possible to shower/tub outlet and when full it'll backup into the shower/tub
When you described the tank letting go all at once after draining a small amount indicates to me that you have a venting problem moreso than the plastic plug problem. If you can, check the grey tank for the roof vent pipe being placed to far down in the tank.
Tried the plunger early on and it does nothing. The water doesn't go down, or come back up, just stays at the level it's at.
I have no idea about the shower backuup, but when my tank is full the first indication is the shower. Obviously, you have proven that you still have 1/2 tank of capacity left. Could the shower have it's own connection into the tank and that connection extends downward to the 1/2 tank level?
Regarding The other thing I've noticed is that when I dump the grey tank the first 1/2 to 3/4 drains quickly and then seems to slow to nothing, then, suddenly the remaining 1/4 tank will let go and drain. Any ideas? Mine does this, and always has. There was another thread about this recently, and many responses said their tanks drained the same way, so this is not uncommon.
Let us know what the final solution is determined to be.
I'm going to assume that it has its own connection. The Coach is a bath and 1/2 model with the shower at the rear of the Coach. The Washer/Dryer is next to the shower but shows no sign of backing up into the shower. I'm guessing the shower, washer, and sink are on the same inlet pipe to the grey tank.
How are you determining the tank level? via the official gauges? Those are notoriously inaccurate. More so with the black than the gray, but neither are, um, really remarkably accurate/useful. And for what it is worth, the entire gray water system is designed so that when the tank gets full, it ALL backs up into the shower.
I agree with @HappyKayakers that the dump problem sounds like a cutout. When the rig makers buy the holding tanks, they have no holes in the top for input, so that they can put 'em wherever they want 'em. They drill their own with a hole saw, and often just let the cutout fall into the tank, rather than go to the trouble of fishing it out. My black tank had the cutout for the toilet in there without issue for 5-1/2 years, before it finally flushed down the drain and got stuck in the drain valve. It wasn't hard to pull on out, however.
The tanks have external gauges on the tanks so no crud on the sensors.
Once the shower backs up, the gauge reads 1/2 full, but I can take a garden hose and let it run in the kitchen sink, all the way to the point of the gauge reading full. This has no impact on the shower until the tank is truly full and then the shower will fill as it should when full.
My shower drains into the grey tank without issue until the grey tank fills to halfway, then the water backs up into the shower. The kitchen sink and front bath sink will continue to drain just fine, even though the shower backs up. Im thinking its a venting issue but not sure. The Coach is always leveled and I've confirmed there is no obstruction in the shower drain trap/pipe. The other thing I've noticed is that when I dump the grey tank the first 1/2 to 3/4 drains quickly and then seems to slow to nothing, then, suddenly the remaining 1/4 tank will let go and drain. Any ideas?
I've noticed a burning rubber smell on my 2012 Ford Edge, that is evident only after I unhook from the Coach and then drive the car for 10-15 miles. It smells like a burnt belt. Car runs fine and I've had it into the Ford dealer with zero results. The weird thing is it only happens on the first drive after I unhook, and then never happens again on subsequent drives. The tires are all fine and no sign of unusual wear. Got me stumped!
The ECM is not powered in the ACC position thus no mileage will be recorded. I think the manual is out of date.
I'm currently towing a 2012 Ford Edge and I'm out on the road now. I've dealt with all of the dead battery issues and found that by making sure the radio/navigation and fan etc. are off, and I'm in the second (before the Ford Recommended position) spot the battery holds its charge.
My question is, why does my odometer still turn? Anybody addressed this?
Our Bounder had them when we bought it new - they were pretty benign until we replaced the tires this year. I was given a tool that was supposed to help the tire changers get the bands off the wheel, but apparently sometime between 2007 and now Tyron started supplying a second tool to compress the tire to allow the bands to be removed - I did not know anything about this second tool. My tire guy spent almost an hour getting the first band off - the second one went a bit easier but I told him he could throw them away, or mount them on his wall, or whatever he wanted to do with them - they won't go back on my RV.
Do they work? According to testimonials they do. But I'll take my chances without them, knowing that any tire guy that CoachNet sends my way will be able to dismount a bad tire without any fuss at all.
That is my big concern. Just had six of eight tires replaced and wanted to put two new ones on he front. Tire shop wouldn't touch them.
Anybody running these on their Coach? If so, anybody experience a flat while running these. http://www.tyron-usa.com/
The former owner of my new Coach had these installed on the front wheels. I would think they would do the job, but not sure. One thing I did discover, not every tire shop can change your tires. Makes me wonder what would happen on the side of the road if you needed a tire.
Do you have diodes installed for the brake lights?
The wiring is all "plug and play" or in-line with the existing toad wiring. The wiring set up works great when hooked up without the Air Force One. My guess is that when the brakes in the Toad get applied by the Air Force One, the wiring is conflicted because it is also getting a signal from the Coach.
I spent most of March down in Mesa Az. In our 5ver. Our plan while we were there was to look at Class A Coach's while we were there. DW and I along with two other couples drove onto the La Mesa RV lot in Mesa and got the treatment outlined below. This is a Yelp post our friend did after our La Mesa Rv incident. Needless to say we left. The following day we dropped $190 K on a Coach from another dealer. Money well spent because it didn't go to these Jack*_%}>}
(Several friends along with my husband and I went into look at high end diesel motorhomes. We were greeted by salesman driving a golf cart ( overweight, middle age, light hair). He was extremely rude and condescending. Yes we made a wrong turn into the service area. A good salesman would have asked us how he could help us not be an ass. Our friends were ready and able to afford an expensive motorhome. Lost their business and ours too. Hopefully the management will read this and either retrain or fire the employee.) Yelp Post March 2013
I have been running a six pin connection to my Toad for my tail lamp, stop, and turn signals. Everything worked great until i just installed my Air Force One Toad Braking System. The Air Force One works great but now I have a brake light issue (turn and tail lamp work fine). Just to clarify, when you install the AFO, you tap into the cold 12 volt line that is adjacent to the brake peddle, this line goes hot when the brakes are activated. Anyway, I now have two sources of power for the brakes and I suspect they are grounding out each other because I now get my left turn and brake light activating, the right brake light functions normally.
My question is, which of the two sources should be disconnected? Has anybody run into this on a Air Force One Install?
Thanks in advance.