If it has the R4R chassis, it will ride very rough. I would test drive it over a variety of road surfaces. Ride is very harsh, to put it mildly. Yes, make sure the trailing arms have been replaced, and not replaced with Roadmaster arms, but with the Source Engineering Trailing Arms. They also offer a ride enhancement kit for the R4R Chassis. My experience was it still rode very rough.
Best thing to do, is replace the dual panes with a thicker single pane. There's a company that does that now. The price is about the same as having the dual panes redone, and the insulation factor is nearly the same. The best part, they won't ever fog. Dual panes in an RV will eventually leak. The biggest window we have is single pane..........the windshield.
For what it's worth.
I seldom if ever down shift my DP when going down a hill. I just turn the exhaust brake on and usually will hold the desire speed.
If needed you can select the "down" arrow and down shift. I believe the gear you have selected is displayed.
As others have mentioned, once at the bottom of the hill if you have down shifted just push the "D" button and you're transmission will be back to automatic.
Sometimes going up a hill, if the transmission keeps going back and forth between gears, usually 4th and 5th, I'll use the keypad and select a gear, usually 4th, but it depends. When at the top, just select "D" and you'll be set again, in automatic.
The exhaust brake is your best friend when descending. Just click it on when you start down a grade and you'll feel it kick in, might take a few seconds. Some people leave the exhaust brake on all the time. Personally, I turn it on when I need it. If you leave it on, every time you take your foot off the accelerator it will engage and start slowing you down.
I'll turn it on at the top of a grade, usually at the speed I want to maintain, and it seems to keep you in the vicinity, speed wise. If I'm in the flats, I'll turn it on as I'm approaching a stop sign or signal light to slow down. As mentioned in another posting, if planned right, you'll probably only need to use your brakes below about 15 mph or so to complete the stop.
With an exhaust brake, regular brakes use is minimized. Turn it on when driving in various conditions, and you'll feel how it works, and you'll end up loving it. I don't think you'll ever wear brakes out on a motor home if used properly.
One more item, if descending a grade, and you do need to use your regular brakes, press on them some what firmly for about 5 seconds and then ease off, this will typically slow you down 5-10 mph and will aid in avoiding over heating the brake. Don't use the brakes for long period of times, what is commonly called riding the brakes. Good Luck, and don't be overly concerned about the grades, your diesel pusher will do fine. Might slow down going up a hill, but you'll get there, and the exhaust brake will minimize the need for braking going down the other side. Enjoy your trip.
I use to have a 30 amp motor home. Under "just the right conditions" you could run both AC's, but that was rare, you certainly couldn't count on it. I did some research and found a box to install that allowed both AC's to run. I can't remember the name, but do some searching and I'm sure you'll find it. If I remember right the generator is wired like a 50 amp service so there's separate legs to each AC, and you split off one of those lines into this box and then plug into two separate outlets. I believe that's how it was, like I said can't remember, but it did work, and was somewhat easy to install.
ANSWER >> RV MOBILE REPAIR
Don't know where you are leaving your RV for 6 WEEKS but I sure would not.
I full time RV, I don't even have a home to drive or fly back to!! My RV's are repaired the 'same day' they break and/or need repairs right at what ever CG I am at at the time.
If you are in a CG ask the manager who they use for mobile repair.
They come out to you, repair the RV and you are done and have a working RV.
99.999% of the time it is repaired right at your site within ONE DAY. Their trucks are so full of RV parts that in 7 years on the road I only had to wait for an ordered part once....and that was for a full awning replacement. Which BTW arrived the next morning and was installed by noon!
If a part does have to be ordered (unlike a dealership) an RV Mobile repair guy with have the part the 'next day' and be back on that SAME day to install it. And guess what? For half the price of what you will pay at a dealership AND get 10 times more the experience of a tech.
There is NO reason to go to an 'RV dealership' and/or leave your RV for months on end. None, nada, zip, zero reasons to use those whoremongers. :B
When we broke down, failed hydraulic pump it took just shy of 30 days to get the pump. This was at a truck repair shop.
So you folks that think you will be on the road the next day are in for a huge surprise. This was not the shops fault and I was on the road soon after the part arrived.
Was this the pump for the jacks? Why not just drive it home, and have it repaired there?
I read on here the other day about someone being broke down, and it was going to be 6 weeks before the problem could be fixed.
I got to thinking what I would do. I'm a single, traveling with my dog, and I tow the only car I own.
So, flying home, in my case, wouldn't be a good option, because I wouldn't have wheels when I got home, plus I'd have to get my dog home.
Say it was a 4 day trip from home where one broke down, that would be a lot of extra driving to get home, and then have to go back a few weeks later to retrieve motor home.
Would towing be option? or hiring someone to drive the RV home after it was fixed be an option? I have no idea what costs would be involved.
I'm just curious what you might do, or suggestions you might have.
Mine has been making noise for a long time. I haven't even looked into replacing it.......do you have to replace the existing one with an exact replacement, or will any pump work? Like I said, I haven't checked into it at all yet. Thanks
Got up this morning and took a look at the ECM and both lines were at 116 volts. Just to much power being pulled by everyone yesterday. I'm at a different park tonight, and getting around 116 on both lines here. Thanks for help.
Thanks for the info. No, I won't bypass the EMS, I bought it for protection. I assume when the voltage drops, and the EMS trips off line, that it is doing so before any damage can be done to the AC's?
If 104volts plus or minus is their setting, then again, I assume anything above that is ok, not the best, but is ok, not doing any damage?
50 amp, plugged into shore power. It's 98 degrees outside, running both AC's, TV, Direct Box and frig.
In the last couple of hours, I've lost the power 5 times, after 30 seconds to a minute, it comes back on. I called the office and they're not losing power. What do you think? Is it the shore power end, or something in my motor home? Thanks
I'm on the end of a row, the camper next to me, has lost power also. His breakers are popping.
Maintenance checked my pedestal and one was 113 and the other around 119.
On my Progressive Industries EMS-LCHW 50 which has surge protection, I'm getting the following readings.
L-1 108V 8A Code EO low voltage
L-2 116V 21A Code is good.
I use locking pins. That way no one can remove them when parked. I always walk around and look, but just in case I forget some day. I've never had any trouble with the locking pins, but I do carry a spare set, just in case.
My tires are 275/80R 22.5 Michilen. I'm considering buying a used tire to carry as a spare. I know a newer date would be great and the same make tire, but I'm assuming that will be hard to come by. So....how old is to old...since it will be carried inside one of the cargo bins, out of direct sunlight. My guess would be, that this tire would only be used to get home or maybe to a tire store, till a new tire replacement could be bought. Any suggestions? Also, I would need to get roadside assistance to change it, so is unmounted ok....or would it be best to get a rim also? Thanks