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Forum
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RE: Who drives a F-350 as their sole vehicle and likes it?
I have a 99 SD CC/SB/V10/4WD it was a year old and had 35K on the odo when I got it. It is my daily driver. Like was posted earlier---it's easier to back in and pull out. But mine is a gasser. Never owned a diesel. I have been driving full sized pick ups since I started to drive, so it's not an issue.
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talonhead
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04/15/13 12:08am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Why so many Dodges than the other big 2?
I am looking for a newer truck myself. Have a '99 F250 Lariat V10 4wd cc/sb.......white
As it is an earlier model, it has the 2V engine and lacks power on the hills. Not to mention it only has an AOD trans and 4.30 diff gears. With the advent of E10 everywhere, my mpg has taken a deep dip(20%+).
I have looked at replacing the engine (it has 110K on the clock), and I still wouldn't have the power. Can't swapp in a 3v engine as they are not compatible with the older truck electronics/wiring.
Right off I just can't stand the looks of the Chevy/GMC trucks (that's just me)
Ford has gone over the top on their interiors lately, but still ok. No real run time on a diesel since the 7.3PSD. And the 6.2 replacing the 6.8. Almost makes me want to take the '73 460 that I'm building for my summer car and repurpose it for a truck. As it will have an EEC-IV MAF based SEFI (electronics) converted from a 5.0.
I went online to look at Rams. The 2013 aren't available for "buils 'n price" yet. But it seems that (my understanding)the axle ratios have a lot more effect on the tow ratings than the Fords.
I want to upgrade to a 1 Ton from the 3/4, shift from a CC to a SC/EXT (no more kids) and go with an 8' box and stay with almost WB.
Ford offers the 5th wheel/goose neck prep kit and hitches---+OEM = under warrenty
I like some of the Dodge body features (I really don't like the Ford grill any more)
So, here we sit. It's a really BIG investment. My current TV is paid off. But do I really want a large truck note? Fo rthe price of a new truck, I could get a Class 8 with less than 500K that would meet or beat my milage and has plenty HP/TQ and convert it. Too bad my state req's a CDL (from my research)to drive one. Maybe I need to move!
MikeH
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talonhead
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03/21/13 04:43pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: how much snow on fiver roof is okay?
Only reason to remove snow is if you plan on heading out on the road? Snow and ice sheets blowing off can be reason for arrest... Or worse.
If you really want to take it off, leaf blower is the right tool.
That is the ONLY reason I remove.. Tickets can and will be written if snow is not removed... There have been stories about ice sheets flying off trailers and killing people...
I agree, We had h'cane Sandy on the way, so I wrapped it up with a huge tarp, it was snuggled in between two big bus coaches. Weathered that well, so I left it that way. Then what was supposed to be 4-5" this past week-----turned out to be 12-15"!
I was dragging axles all the way up my drive.......until the snow piled up in front of the bumper, hill angle got to be too much and not enough weight on board to keep pushing!
leave it unless you're moving
MikeH
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talonhead
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01/05/13 12:50pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: 5'er Hitch Recommendations?
I have a 16K Superglide also. After having the bucking issue on my way back from MT where I picked up the trailer, I found out about the front adjustment. That fixed the bucking issue.
The hooking/unhooking at other than near straight can be an issue at times. But, so can extreme angle differences between truck & trailer when the bed corners hit the underside of the trailer. I was seriously thinking of removing the oem bed and building a hauler bed that would allow more angle. I learned the hard way not to bring my 5er up my d-way! Took me three days to terra-form my yard so I could turn around AND not destroy the trailer.
I have seen air ride type pin boxes that I might invest in to help out on bad roads. (Of course good shocks on truck and trailer help:) )
As Vulcaneer said about the bed mat, mine is that way also. The mat fits under the bars. Pull the pins, lift the hitch off the rails, then lift the rails off the big vertical pins, then turn the pins 1/4 turn and pull. Flat bed!
MikeH
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talonhead
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01/05/13 12:22pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Ideas for protecting my hitch from theft
They might be heavy, but azzhats will steal your tailgate right off your truck! Or the 3rd row seat out of your SUV. But locking it will only keep honest folks honest. If someone wants it, they'll take it (or jack up your truck trying)
I'm lucky, no one wants to come up my drive at the house anyway. But on the road/away from home when not hooked up, I have a large diameter plastic cable that loops through the bottom frame of the hitch and the tie-down loops in the bed with a big lock. It justs makes it harder for them. Same with a pin lock on the trailer.
MikeH
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talonhead
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10/26/12 05:01pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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shock absorber orientation on prowler 5er
Was under my 5er the other day doing a survey while cleaning and winterizing and noticed that the curbside shock was inverted from what I know as 'normal'. The piston/shroud end was on the bottom with the open part of the shroud up allowing it to catch whatever stuff was airborne and happened to land in the opening. I also noted that oil had been leaking over the 'top' of the shroud and running down the outside. Just wondering if I'm mistaken and it's supposed to be that way. The unit is a 2000 Prowler 24 5P.
On this note, does anyone know where I can get a maintenance manual and schematic drawings for it?
But I think right now I'll go and wrap it in a big-azz tarp and tape the windows in prep for Sandy. Got lots of protection in the storage lot with Fleetwood MH's on both sideds:)
Thanks, Mike
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talonhead
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10/26/12 04:51pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: mOhms vs Converter Size Question.
I'm Ret. USN (electronics), the difference in Mohms and mohms is is monumental!
Now after 10 years in shipbuilding as a electrical tester the difference seems even greater! milliohms is used for continuity and Megaohms is what we use for insulation breakdown and testing for grounds on a circuit.
Do yourselves a real favor, get a good DMM or analog meter. I've hade some crappy ones that I was given. The one I was issued at work is a nice Fluke 189 (several hundred $ , but I didn't have to shell out for it). I do have a Fluke 8600A that I've had for 20+ years and it still works (LCD flakes out once in a while). Read the manual. Understand what the ranges are. How to use the various modes to figure out what is going on. It's nice to be able to talk 'apples to apples' instead of 'potatoes to watermelons'.
MikeH
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talonhead
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10/22/12 08:44pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: damn road debris! Underbody wiring mess
BFL13 thanks.
I found a schematic on www.kibenterprises.com the manf.s site. Now I have to get together some 20awg wire and assorted materials to splice and hook it back up.
I'll have to take a better look at the thermostat.
MikeH
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talonhead
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10/22/12 08:27pm |
Tech Issues
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damn road debris! Underbody wiring mess
Did a search for sensor wiring hook-up, no luck. So hear goes.
Took the 5er out for a run before winterizing. Put some hot water in the holding tanks with some calgon and some dish soap (not a lot) and let it sit while I hooked up. Ran the roads for a little while, then pulled in at the local US Navy base to hit up the exchange. As it was a nice day, I crawled under to have a look.
The wiring for the Grey tank was pulled off the sensor screws and cut off near the frame clamp! Anyone got a wiring diagram? And It looks like something whacked the curbside shock. It's got a ding in the side and is leaking oil from the piston. QUESTION: The shock looks like it is upside down! From what I know about shocks-the piston is attached to the upper mount and the resivoir is on bottom. Street side unit is res. down and curb side is res. up??????
Other than that, the only hic-up is, I couldn't get the furnace or A/C to run. The A/C worked this summer when we were out after picking the 5er (we never had a reason to use the furnace). I cut in the water heater and ran it off gas and electric. It was good (other than pulling the aft wall under the galley sink to get to the valve!).
Does anyone know where I can get drawings i.e. wiring, plumbing and gas for a 2000 Fleetwood Prowler 5er?
Thanks, MikeH
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talonhead
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10/22/12 06:29pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: V10 won't start, sorry a long one.
Anything with EFI, if the voltage goes below 12.5 it usually won't turn the starter. The ECM needs at least that to function. I've had it on my '93 SC T-bird and my '99 F250 V10 and my '03 Hummer H2. 13 VDC is a middle and 13.5-13.8 VDC are very good when running.
MikeH
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talonhead
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10/22/12 05:49pm |
Tech Issues
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Kitchen Plumbing vent
Just did a walk around my 5er today as I usually do when I pay the stowage fee. Not much, I am now squeezed in between a pair of MH's (big ones), the antenna cable boot was off it's seat (silicone and reseat) check. But the vent for the kitchen lost it's cover. I looked it up $3.00 for the whole thing. What kind of sealant should I use when I replace the cap (after removing the old stuff)?
MikeH
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talonhead
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10/06/12 03:10pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Antenna mast drips occasionally...
Thanks,
MikeH
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talonhead
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08/03/12 04:51pm |
Tech Issues
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Antenna mast drips occasionally...
After the last storm, I went and checked how my 5er had made out.
Everything looked great, until I went forward. There were some water drops on the basin counter top. I looked up and there was the mast crank. It had a drop of water on the edge of the "wheel"-not the crank. How is thes sealed and what can I do about it?
MikeH
p.s. It's a 2000 Prowler
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talonhead
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08/03/12 04:08pm |
Tech Issues
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