I tried several wireless and had trouble with all
This is a link I found on this site, I bought the setup on first page and it has worked flawlessly for over a year now! also just under the phone number at top of page is link to their other products and packages good company to deal with and very good products. I especially like the weatherproof connections and 5-wheel connection cables!
backup cam clicky
Call your agent, explain the situation to them, and let them go to bat for you. They will go after the dealer and their insurance company.
Its called subligation. Contact your insurance and tell them all they will usually cover you up front before going after the dealership. At least on mine they did. Ours was the unit right next to another that caught fire and burned to the ground. It literally melted the side off of ours (corregated aluminum) Our insurance payed complete replacement cost but it did take a few months to straighten it all out. ours is the one between the burned rubble and the toasted like a marshmellow one's
If you're close enough to plug into the house, why not use electric heaters and save the propane?Three reasons:
1) our lower driveway where we store has only a 15A circuit available (upper has 2 30A and a sewer dump for when friends visit)
2) I don't really trust our ceramic cube heaters to run unsupervised.
3) my power cord isn't long enough to reach all the way to Texas :)
Hope you don't have to leave it there too long!!?! I did that once, furnace draws a lot of amps for fan and ran batts down quickly
Now even at the house in storage I just use the built in electric tank heaters and a small electric coiled wire milk barn heater / sitting on a ceramic turkey serving platter just to make sure it doesnt heat up the close area of floor
In the parking lot checking in State park at Lake Dardenelle In Russellville AR
I've heard that water still goes through, is that true? In that case the cover is good for sun/dirt only.
In the case of the Tyvec it will seep through but only at the points of contact and actually very little. The fabric stays waterprof and beads, but in contact, picture the cool morning in a nylon tent... if you touch the walls on the inside your hand will get wet.
As far a dirt.. since it does breath and allow a bit of moisture (If not also under cover from rain) some bugs, as in grass hoppers will climb up the interior walls of canvas (between camper and cover)first time I left it on for a few months, I was surprised how many bug/critters were in there along w/cob webs and the dirt they bring in. there were no water spots like from leaving it, just out in open, but it was dusty, had a film on it needed to hose it off!
More points,if you have slides. Buy a trailer that all you need to get to, while in storage, is accessable without opening slides. Or you will be having a set of zippers put in for the slide that needs to move to get too? our Camping World Premium adco/Tyvec has lots of zippers for lots of slides/Doors etc. but none coincide right with ANYTHING?!?!? the outside storage hatch's are fairly easy to get too but even the main Entry Door is right between two slide zips and takes a tall step ladder and a few minutes to get into unit?!?!
We have been covering ours for three years. It is a big hassle to install it and a bigger hassle to remove it and store it. It is heavy, and the smallest I can compress it to when it is not being used is about 30" X 60". I really hate using it, but it keeps it clean all winter and protects it from the sun.
If you get one be sure to protect it from any sharp corners or protrusions on the RV using foam padding, etc. or they will very quickly wear through the cover and make holes in it. Also be sure to securely tie it down.
We may be going down south some time this winter for the first time. For that reason I may not cover ours this year. It would be WAYYY too hard for me to remove it and try to pack it when it is really cold outside and if it has snow on it or it is wet.
I thought I should add a couple more comments. As much as I hate having to handle and store it, I think the protection the cover offers is generally worth the hassle in dealing with it. It does keep it dry and clean all winter. I'm 66 years old now and beginning to feel my age. If I was younger I wouldn't think twice about the work involved.
As far as durability is concerned, we have used the same Adco Deluxe cover for three years. It only has one small hole in it that was caused by rubbing on the generator exhaust pipe on our old motor home the first year we put the cover on. We kept that cover to use on our "new" motor home.
The cover that came with our current motor home was an Adco Tyvec cover that had been purchased new last fall by the proir owner. I bought the motor home on New Years day, and by then it already had several holes in it. I gave that one to the guy who bought our old motor home.
I found out also that the Tyvec is not all that strong, you can't pull on it hard and the rub points must be sewn re inforced but other than that I do like it it does not get wet and heavy, it does allow moisture to excape and is water proof (beads water period) It IS soft enough that when tightened properly it does NOT scratch or wear surface paint
Also found it easiest to remove by getting on top and pulling the front and sides up starting from front, work way to rear getting it all in a kind of tube shape rolled together front to back. Then get a large garbage can (I bought a new one with wheels just fir it) and slide off from rear into can stuffing as you go.
When time to put back on, grab end from can and climb up, drag all way to front and then drape down sides! Even at 40 ft of cover, As long as it is "not too windy" its a one person job and not all that difficult?!?!?
Situ Awr, Wasp spray. Gun
X2 BTW Wasp spray is very good self defense item
longer range than most pepper/tear spray, has many uses, works on stray dogs/cats most unwanted critters (wouldn't advise on skunks)burns the eye's and nose MORE! The good one's are also flamable!! If needed you can then toss a zippo at them. Also fairly (compared to pepper spray) cheap.
I also have and carry a pistol that uses a 410 shot gun shell w/birdshot (Smith and Wesson Governor) so If I have to use it, It will not go through a wall and hurt an inocent three doors down!
Mine are under the refridgerator near the water pump. Although I have no idea what good they are, nothing ever comes out or them when I winterize. And yes I do open the valves.
I'm not sure about MO but in Texas and here in AR i have had that problem many times it is usually cured by useing a straightened out coat hanger wire and poking in and loosening removing the dirt dobber nests in the actual drain lines after opening the drain cocks :S
The reality is the sales person doesn't know and couldn't know better than any one else, which is a best guess, for generalities....(How far back -when they became good) As maint and original adjustment/followup maint, is the key. the actual mechinisms haven't changed THAT much in the past 20 yrs or so except the change in HIGHER END units to Hydraulics, but not all newer have hydraulics. and not all electric motor driven units are the same. Some are gear driven some are cable and pulley. The changes that "have" made a difference is the tolerances and roller/slide "weight dist" parts,and the type number and placement of seals. ie. they don't just scrape in and out any more they now generally are on rollers or bushing slide mechinisms (About 20 yrs ago)
The two main things I have found to look closely at are
#1 The Seals; Water damage is the biggest problem you can have in any part of an RV, especially the slides! Doesn't take long or a whole lot, can quickly cause thousands of $$$$ in danage. Check ALL seals that they flap open properly and are soft and pliable, seal properly...AND the end walls, outside when open. specifically the bottom wraparound, .. when water drips to bottom edge does it wet the wood on bottom? Is that wood protected? etc
#2 Does it glide smoothly in and out in a straight path without jerking or irregular movement? Is it in alignment in both in and out positions? The better the adjustment and calibration, smoother the operation obviously the more repetitions it will endure prior to mechanical failure. EVERYTHIBG mechanical Will FAIL EVENTUALLY PERIOD! Proper maintenance along with replacement of warn parts will prolong useful lifespan. And proper adjustment / calibration will reduce amount of replacement parts.
Like one poster said "we are all different and what works/worked for me may/may not for you".
My loving wife of 21 yrs passed of Breast Cancer (well complications there of) at ripe old age of 42 ;0( she was 6 mos younger than I. I retired at 46, got re-married, Have only one kiddo, still at home, in her last yr of HS. Prepping and anxious for her college experience. + We do a lot of volenteer work, community work etc and all that limits our travel somewhat. And "we too" are probably not that suited to full timing,...
But we do plan to do many medium duration trips, in the not so far future.
Live, love and laugh, you never know what will be, tomorrow
I dunno, 20 amazing days of vacation for around $1500 sounds like a pretty good deal to me. :) Where else can you have that much fun for $75 a day?
We went to the cowboys game last week, (9/23 vs tampa bay bucconeers @ Dallas' new stadium) "lets see"
Two medium seats (Not nose bleed, but nothing great) $325.00
each had a hot dog fries, coke + a beer $48.00
2 R/T tickets fr Little Rock to Dallas - back $520.00 (Red eye additional hasstle for free type)
airport parking 2 days $20.00
Rm for 2, in medium (OK La Quinta) Inn $78.00
rental car $64.00
Other meals and misc. inclu momentoes and gifts $135.00
Yes we had a terrific time! I still don't care who won!!! (Not really big football fans, just wanted to have the experience)
Camping?!?!?! Well if you add up all the things the OP mentioned, .. Then actually ADD in the cost of the rig (see Sig below) divide by our ave. 20-25 nights a yr, now until the actual retirement date(s)
priceless.... BUT compareable! Go's to show ya... Life's expensive! "work your A$$ off, save, invest, build a good retirement nest egg! "Then spend the kids enheritance before you go!!"
Sure I'm Game!!
Hey if they can make it roast the marshmellow's, catch the fish and start the campfire Hmmm I wouldn't even have to go camping any more
:h Nahhh but I will stick with the Level-up and the remote control for slides and awning!! :B
Five'er I agree! We like to sit up late and talk around the fire. We are not loud. We talk in soft tones. We are visiting with family we only se onece a year sometimes and we spend as much time together talking as we can. We use to tent camp when our boys were babies and we never set up camp around a camper. We also kept a box fan inside to buffer outside noise.
When we are in our camper we kkep the ac fan in the on position so it runs all night. We never here anything.
As far as lights go I am inside my camper with my eyes shut. I can't see any light;)
We are all on vacation. It comes once a year, for one week. For some of us. There should be happy medium.
I am not talking about the ones who sit up drinking and partying all night, just being rude.
Sitting around the fire with the family talking and making memories.
that is fine and dandy but just accept it that if someone comes over and asks you too be quiet, do it.
you may think you are quiet but if some else doesn't that means you are not.
The OP kinda went on about how the other camper parked tent, very close, then reacted very passive about saying anything
I understand both sides (after the asking, to quiet down) I have been in similar situations. If I need to ask someone nicely to keep it down, usually its because they are being VERY obnoxious ,Loud to the point that now we have a very well insulated (temp and SOUND) unit and when the fire starts burning down around 10 or so we "CAN" retire inside next to indoor fireplace HOWEVER I find that it is Almost Always better to just say what's on your mind, openly, and early "not with attitude or malice" just as an "Equal paying camper" (Take the Adult role, ..even though the other may not)I probably would have invited them "Y'all are more than welcome to come over and join in, in the marshmellow's and hot dogs!,... Round dinner time were gonna get tha fire goin there "IN THE PIT" , ..... Might wanna scoot the tent a little too,... we'll probably be out here most of the night you would'nt wanna be so close as to bothered by our talking or such.
I too do not try to offend, I'm not out with a Me Me Me tude, I'd rather be friendy or "Friendly silent neighbors" But I am also a paying camper, here to have a good time. I follow the rules and expect that of others. I don't prevoke others But I won't be taken advantage of either
I VERY rarely have confrontations, and even more rare that I come home NOT relaxed and refreshed
Biggest advantage is security/peace of mind, ... bigget dis-advantage is security and peace of mind......
Nothing say's your gone on vacation like the GIANT RV, MISSING from the side of the house?!?!?! ;0(
I have the BAL 'X's and they're great but I don't think they're supposed to be used to chock the wheels. According to the instructions you still need those, they are for stabilizing only. Unfortunately I don't have the instructions around anymore.
You are correct; instructions say to chock the wheels and the Bal X for stabilizing.
Fortunatly on mine I found this out real quick, due to the kind/type of suspension I have (7K axles, below springs, wet bolts). When the trailer is raised, the space between the tires widens/opens dramatically. If I put on our x chocks prior to raising, they just fall out! If I put them on after, then forget and lower, "The chocks wedge and WON'T COME OUT". Unhooking I use my big plastic triangles
raise nose, unhook, drive out, hit auto level button, wait for beep, put on x-chocks, fumble in pocket get and push button to remotely open slides / awning, then proceede to plug in pwr. water, sewer connections. I do think the x-chocks reduce wobble "the pivoting motion back and forth, or "left and right of" front and rear, Of which there is not much in ours from the 6 legs of the leveling system. And no decernable up and down "Bounce"
DW bought me one of these for christmas almost two years ago and we love it! Has a LOT of neet features, is really bright, Very efficient also. We have had it camping and used it around the house during power outages. The main unit does require 8 "D" cells which make it kind of heavy but it is very sturdy and feels it! the individual light "Pods" that come off have factory installed rechargable batts that work great, and last, seems like forever. I have not changed the batteries in the time I have had it, still going bright and strong!
another benefit in the summer especially it puts out NO HEAT AT ALL, unlike those old gas/propane models!
got ours at Bass pro, wally's cheaper
You will get a plethora of people telling you (The weight police) "YOU DON"T NEED NO STINKING SPARK PLUGS!!" "A REAL TRUCK RUNS DIESEL"
And MANY will swear that "THAT" big of a unit will need at least a Medium duty truck "MDT" diesel/dually/long bed etc. etc.
You seem to already have checked out the specs, you know the DRY weight. Now just ADD an appreciable amount for legimate loading, Double check the specs on your exact truck, including loading (you passengers "Stuff" etc.) check the tires on your truck for weight rating, and if the "GM" stated specs say's you are under/over/marginal
Use your best common sense to judge what to do/not do. In some cases you can do some modifications to your tow vehicle to increase the load ability ie. brake/tire/suspension improvements. You can "if needed" do mods to enhance engine performance. One area usually overlooked is the coupling! You can add air suspension to the pin coupling (either the hitch or the pin side) to cushen and cause less stress to the suspension of TV (greater margin of safety/longevity when closer to max axle limits)
The answer is "You CAN" take a marginal truck (for the task) and make it perform well and fairly safe, however it becomes a numbers and "worth it" game. The more you push the max limits, The more you need to do, to make it able and safe, also means more maintenance and faster retirement of TV. In your case the alternative is to get a heavier duty TV and pay the added cost of operation as a daily driver. This must be tempered by how new (effiency) vs. cost of upgrade (older = less effient) "No one ever said RV'ing was cheap?!?!:(
"I you factor in the campground fee's, diesel fuel, tax, regis, licsense, and COST of rig(See sig) then the NUMBER of days "CAMPING" in a year...Cheaper for me to just stay at Hilton on Maui!!!:E
But ive been through many rigs "To get here" and wouldn't give it up! We do it cause we love it!!"
Inverter runs it fine while going down the road and the engine alternator keeps the batteries charged. Fridge doesn't run that much and when it does, it pulls about 3 amps.
All relative to ambient temperature of course. A fridge will run more and harder if the temp, it resides in, is warmer. Like a non air conditioned 5th wheel going down road. However the usual reference of 120 volts (AC) multiplied by amperage, "Aprox 3, as he said", and for our 18 cu ft as well,is 360 watts. A "RUNNING wattage and needs much more, at start up of the compressor. Ours came with an 800 watt PSW (Plenty but not much extra)and is fully auto, as in if you loose shore power it (The inverter) will automatically kick in. 1000 watt PSW inverters are available for around $200.00 on ebay, I would stay away from the made in china units as they tend to have less safety and protection features, warranty etc. It "IS" one more thing to check prior to storage. Must be turned off.