"5. Can I get a temp tag in CA to transport it back East."
Based on my experience in 2008, the answer is "NO". We live in Florida, bought a used fifth wheel from a couple in suburban San Diego. We went out there to pick it up. The owner accompanied us to the Kaleefornia DMV office in Poway in case his presence/signature was needed for registration/title transfer. Explained to employee we were not CA residents, only needed a transit permit or temp tag to take it back to Florida, and the trailer would be titled/registered there. She spoke to her office manager, who came to the counter and explained the trailer would be issued a new CA tag & title in our names, and we would have the privilege of paying a $2200 "use tax" (READ: Sales Tax) in addition to tag/title fees. Total cost: Just under $2600.
That aside, if what you're looking at is water damaged, I agree with others that posted to pass on the deal. That's a can of worms you don't want to open...
No one has mentioned it yet, but those detectors have a useful shelf life of around 5 years. You mention your trailer is an '06 model, yours is likely at least 6 years old. I had an '05 HitchHiker LS with an LP detector that went off constantly. Replaced it with an identical model I bought from NuWa's parts dept. for about $35. Perfect fit and no more activations. Replace yours; it's an important safety feature.
Post a pic of your old filter when you change it.
This one had 12k miles when I changed it last week. Many of the miles are on a gravel, dusty road though.
What mine typically looks like when I change it, but with a lot of sand trapped in the pleats and enough sand in the bottom of the filter box to fill a sandbox. At least that stuff is being stopped by the filter.....I hope.:h
Detroit 13 Liter (DD13) rated at 505HP/1800TQ. Is anyone familiar with this engine?That sounds more like a Class 8 tractor rating. I think 1800 is a bit overstated.
DD13 Spec Sheet
According to the spec sheet, the OP is a little high on both HP & TQ ranges, but still respectable numbers.
EDIT: There is another spec sheet on Detroit's website with this engine offered in a Freightliner Class A DP chassis. It's rated at 500 HP and 1650 ft/lbs TQ. Might be what the OP was referring to.
Our 07 Dodge - 5.9 Cummins - has a gauge like this on the air filter
The owner's manual says to depend on this gauge to tell you when to change the filter. In fact, on page 391 it says never to open the filter housing to inspect the air filter under normal conditions.
That all sounds good, but at 5 years and 87 thousand miles, I would have replaced several air filters on a gas rig by now.
I don't see how replacing the filter - even if it is still good - could really hurt anything, but I also don't feel the need to squander money on something I don't really need.
So - what do you think? Should I just decide that time and miles call for a new filter, or can I safely continue to depend on the little gauge?
I replace mine annually, regardless of what the filter minder says. The filter is cheaper than an induction system repair or worse. In the 5 years I've had the truck that thing has only moved once, I'm not even sure it's working like it should.
Anybody have a idea how much cost per foot to replace the roof with Rhino spray?
Been mentioned before, but THIS guy in Green Cove Springs, FL. charges $135/linear foot. It is a sprayed product, but don't know if it's similar to Rhino, Line-X. His website seems to state the product he applies is not.
No hemi. When I bought the truck I didnt plan on towing a trailer! Thanks for all the great info though! And FOREVER 'Dega is definitely on our list. So far we've hit Charlotte, Dover, and Pocono. Dover and Pocono are only 2 hours from us in either direction so they have only been day trips but I'd sure love to enjoy the infield atmosphere!
Totally unrelated, but as close as you are to Martinsville, I'd go for either the spring or fall race there before Talledega. I live 35 minutes from Daytona, have been to the 500, 400, & Duels, and a Martinsville weekend was the best time I ever had at a NASCAR event. Plate racin' just isn't racin' IMHO.
In town,finding a gas station/convenience store with ample maneuvering room can be a challenge. There's a Racetrac about a mile from my home and right off I-4 used by RV'ers all the time, but they have a devil of a time getting in and out, partly due to the access and exit, partly because of traffic volume.
Along the Interstates, plenty of convenience stores with spacious pump islands and very tall awnings, limiting concerns about vertical clearance. And in most cases the fuel cost is less than Flying J, Love's, Pilot, TA, etc.
Here lately, my air conditioning blows warm air at idle. After I start rolling and at higher speeds it blows cold air fine.
This has been an intermittent problem for a couple of months.
Any suggestions as to the problem? The air-conditioning system on my 2002 SuperDuty has never been worked on and has about 177K on it.
Thanks in advance.
Have you had the refrigerant level checked? At a 177K miles, would not be unreasonable to find it low. Bigger concern is if it's leaking, where? That can be a real challenge; My mechanic has been trying to pin down a suspected leak on my '05 Ram for 2 years, with both dye and electronic leak detection. No joy yet, so he adds refrigerant until the next time......
I have noticed this on many lippert framed fifthwheels. I also have noticed some new lippert framed fifthwheel with a control crack cut and a T-shaped molding installed this can be done for your problem. If it doesn't have a big problem that isn't known of course and my guess is you might not. The corner is a weak spot. If you notice when concrete is poured around an existing concrete slab the sharp corner will crack the new concrete and rebar is added to maybe stop it from the stress of the old corner. Enjoy your fifth and let us know the fix.
X2. Don't know if it's necessarily a Lippert frame issue, but a Lippert bedroom glide seems to be a factor. NuWa had this issue with both the HitchHiker LS and Discover America lines (LS models used a Lippert frame and bedroom glide prior to 2010, Discover America had some Lippert frames on the lighter models prior to 2010, but most used Young's Welding frames and Lippert bed glides).
Had the problem with our used 2004 HitchHiker II LS; diagonal crack in the fiberglass from the lower left corner of the bed glide, about an 1 1/2" long. Contacted NuWa, the suggested fix (same thing they would do at their factory service center) was to run a router down the length of the crack (about 1/8 or 3/16" depth), fill it with a sealant like ProFlex, and place a piece of moulding over it.
None of the smaller truck bed boxes would work for you? Just askin' since I don't know the dimensions of your fuel cans. If you were to find a box that would work, wouldn't seem difficult to vent it, though I'm still a fan of the OSHA type tea kettle lookin' safety cans...........
06 3500 SRW Megacab w/ 285's / 3.73, towing Cyclone 3612 Toyhualer
CAT Scaled: ~28,000lbs with gear.
Runs good. Tows good. Been through two (unfortunately) emergency maneuver with it. Personally, still wouldn't want a DRW. Just my $0.02.
YMMV for sure and that's what really matters.
What does your TV rear axle weigh?
I just hope for your and others sake you don't blow a TV tire.
Dunno what his rear axle rating is, but I have the same truck ('05 3500 SRW, no big change in '06 that I know of) with 265 70R 17 tires (Load Range E, 3195lbs) on it and the rear axle weight rating is like 6300 lbs. When I had my fifth wheel, I (2450 loaded pin wt) very close to, but within the axle weight rating, and total combined gross weight was 20345 lbs.
The pump location on our White Hawk is located in the kitchen under the sink area. DH had to remove a panel to locate it. The on and off switch is located on the levels panel, which on ours is located on side of cabinet just inside the main entrance door.
X2 on both the pump location and switch location.
Edit: Guess that's the difference between a good dealer and a great dealer. OP said he wasn't told anything about the water pump, our dealer (Orlando RV), not only explained the pump and water system, the tech removed the panel under the kitchen sink, and showed us the pump location (along with the water heater bypass kit while he was under there). :)
Jump down off the hostility wagon guys, I have a properly functioning propane furnace but travel in the far north a lot (arctic and sub arctic) and do not generally camp in campgrounds. Here to fore I have tent camped or used a pop up where such a stove wasnt practical and I am not looking for cheap here as these are far from inexpensive.
Its clear most of you have no idea what I am talking about but these stoves are very common around the world and I even used them in the Army. They are a non-pressurized system that uses a metering valve to regulate the fuel and I have had one in a fishing boat and in a cabin and they work great.
This is a particular stove I have been impressed with in the past but there are several others of various sizes: http://www.refleks-olieovne.dk/default.asp?pagenumber=1567.
I have to say, throwing out a question and getting flak for thinking differently because I have different needs is not a very encouraging sign for this forum.
A question: Wouldn't a propane catalytic heater provide the same benefit, or do you view the oil stove as more convenient from a fuel storage standpoint, not to mention No.2 oil is considerably less volatile than LP?
My vote is also for a maintenance charger of some sort, regardless of season, for maintenance of the batteries when the trailer is not in use. I learned that $200 lesson the hard way, ergo, I take the batteries home after every outing and attach a Battery Minder.
If I were looking for a TT and I noticed that the manufacturer stated that the trailer is not to be towed with full tanks, I wouldn't buy that trailer. How do you expect to ever boondock without water?
I agree. If Jayco has that disclaimer I won't be buying a Jayco.
I have traveled with all tanks full at times. Not being able to travel with tanks full would be a deal breaker for me.
OK, I'll take this opportunity to wipe the egg off my face and enjoy some fresh crow. Went into the owner's manual for our WhiteHawk and found this:
"Never travel with full black or grey water holding tanks. This not only wastes
your fuel but depending on the location of the tank(s), it can affect your
tow vehicle handling characteristics."
The warning was for gray and black tanks, not the FW tank. My apologies, guess the CRS is getting worse.........:S
But, I did read a post on the Jayco Owners' Forum in the last month where someone reported their FW tank fell out of the belly. I have also seen posts on this Forum with owners of various other brands of towable RV's reporting dropped FW tanks. So, it does make you wonder how substantial the support and bracing for these tanks really is.......:h
You provide no information for even a WAG. Age of your RV,nature and extent of damage for example. Have you pulled out your policy and read the loss settlement provisions? Anything you get here is conjecture. No need to go on the warpath with your insurance until they approach you with a settlement.
My only contribution to the discussion is unless it's a newer unit and your insurance has a purchase price or replacement cost total loss settlement rider, they will likely offer only the actual cash value of the unit. How they arrive at that figure, is open to debate. If you are not satisfied with the offer, do the laws of your state allow you to hire a public adjuster to do an independent review of the claim and render a second opinion?
Must have been a helluva pothole.........Sorry for your loss.