I tend to look at things a little differently on a used vehicle. You paid $13,000 of a coach that has an AVERAGE RETAIL of $15,150. Basically all of the work that you did was deferred maintenance and does not add to the value of the coach. So you have a coach where, if you sell it now, you may only lose a few thousand dollars. Now that sounds tough but look at it this way...........How much does a typical vacation cost where you have to pay for airfare, meals, hotels, etc? We took a three week trip to Peru and spent a little over $5000 with NOTHING being recoverable.
To me, I think you would be better off cutting your losses and selling or trading the coach. This does not mean that if you get another coach that there will not also be problems, but I am sure that you will never trust this coach again to take on a trip. Chalk it all up to experience and move on.
Cut your losses. NOW.
Those newly discovered prior 'water damage' is nothing but a money pit.
Not worth throwing good money after bad
Sell it. Then use that money to purchase a different RV AFTER you have an independent inspection preformed so you KNOW what you are getting into FIRST.
Sounds like really good advice. Thanks to the both of you.
I don't know the over all condition of your RV but after spending $3000 to fix things I would not be in a hurry to get rid of it, you might be over the hump on big repairs for now and another used one just might do the same or even cost more.
Just take your time to learn how to make your own repairs, inspect it often, put grease were its needed, change motor oil and trans fluid, get road side asst, and enjoy, anything 1999 is going to need repairs.
Trust me $3000 is not a lot when it comes to motorhome repairs, some here have $10,000 invested in repairs and still got payments..
I went from a no slide class A to a 2 slide class A and will never go back to non slide, I might down size in the future but it will still have to have at least 1 slide.
Also I think slide outs will help with the sale down the road when your ready to change.
I don't know about the 5 vs 6 speed change, but will be looking for the stats.
I think a 5 speed on the F-53 vs the 6 speed would be almost the same if you have the 5 Star Tuning on the 5 speed F-53 and yet have more HP as well.
I wouldn't think about a trip without a spare. I have trouble getting around but I still change 22.5 tires. It's not that much work if you know how, some people are lazy and never had to work hard. Get t a torque multiplier and you can get the nuts off. The biggest problem is getting the bead set. I have had to use ether and a propane torch when all else failed. Now I cut 2x4 block and put between the bead to train the tire bead apart.
Changing a 22.5 tire on the rim that is hard work, why not carry a fully mounted spare.
the coolant tubes are wider and they put more fins per inch
Ok. Do you happen to know if those coolant numbers are accurate? And, if so, do they represent a significantly better operation for cooling?
Yes they would cool better, even though its only a half gal more its how the radiator blows off the heat more on the super cooler vs the standard.
Do you plan on towing above 100 degrees than the super cooler is a must.
Call emergency roadside assistance. To carry a spare would be problematic because of weight and size, and how often does one have a flat? Maintaining proper air pressure, monitoring tire condition and changing them out at the end of life (5-7 years) greatly reduces the risk of a flat.
The OPer was looking at 19.5 tires, its not a real weight issue and most rear compartments can fit a 19.5, also changing 19.5 if you have levelers to lift motorhome is no big deal and flats do happen.
Hate to be in the middle of no where or far from a town on a Sunday without a spare.
Most 19.5 tire motorhomes have a spare, mine does, its the 22.5 that wont have the room to carry, and yes I can change my own spare and have Good Sam as a backup.
GM V-8 is old school with push rods and 2 valves per cly and the Ford V-10 is high tech with over head cam and 3 valves per cly..
Ford Rules, sorry about that.. :p
Any utility trailer should work....get one with a built in ramp (like landscapers use). When on the trailer,make sure the Spyder is in 1st gear, use ratcheting tie-downs. You MAY have to drill holes in the trailer for the tie-down hooks. Angle the tie-down straps to eliminate or minimize front to back movement.
Not any utility trailer, many of those trailers like landscaping companies use have cheap axels that burn out the bearings during long highway use, I would look for a quality trailer with upgraded axels and electric brakes..
Been down the road with low cost trailers and always end up costing more in the long run.
Never have any RV dealer service the chassis, gas or diesel, they are not trained in that department and probably don't even have the correct service manual for the chassis, take it to a certified chassis repair/service shop..
Many RV dealers cant even install the RV components correctly so why have them work on the chassis.
Thanks everyone for your replies. If I had to make and educated guess, the sound is more associated with the valves. Once I make speed, it stops chattering and even when I do stop and go city driving there is no chatter. It only happens when I stop after driving awhile. The engine has 69,000 miles.
At 69,000 miles I don't think its the valves, it does sound like the timing chain tensioner has gone bad, there is a YouTube video about this on the Ford Triton motors and the chatter does go away after the motor has been warmed up and the timing chain does effect the camshaft that operate the valves..
Here is the video about the issue and does apply to the V-10 as well, he describes a chatter noise at start up but goes away after warm up
Wow and all the diesel owners say its so much better than gas, whole block cracks and $19,000 to replace, what the heck, gas rules..
Gas does rule
Tent's rule for some folks and TT's for others and all the way up to the Prevost and Newell owners.
It's just a matter of where you set your limits and what your budget is.
As for Diesel engines, this sort of thing isn't the norm and is just a very small percentage of all that's on the road. The rest are good for a million miles with a little maintenance.
For whatever reason, I chose a CAT over a Cummins and so far, so good, but who can say, in the long term.
Yea and how many miles does a average motorhome get over 20 years, most don't see 100,000 miles, why spend the extra thousands of $$ that you will never see the benefits..
New gas motorhomes can do 300,000 miles before the motor is wore out but usually wont see those miles before its put out back because its just old and roof leaks.
I store mine under a shaded canopy in my back yard in Las Vegas with full hookups..
I would never trust a storage yard, just to much theft happens now days.
A lot of theft happens in storage, do you have a spot where you can park it at your home and is the drive that bad, the reason I say when you show up next season and see the damage from theft you will wished you had never put it in storage..
just my 2 cents..
The timing chain tensioner does go bad and you will have a chatter at start up and than goes away after motor is warm, they have been know to go bad on Triton motors mostly on the smaller blocks but can happen on the V-10.
As to cold weather 5th wheels usually have the high insulation packages, as to motorhomes they tend to be made for mild climate but dual pane windows do help but the thinner walls on motorhomes usually don't do so well in the very low temps.
Why go full time and strap yourself down to a lake lot to maintain and pay for, just try full timing without any real-estate at 1st and see how you like it, you might find out you prefer the SW over the Mid West, or you might like Oregon over that other place, travel and be a free bird at 1st than see what you might like.
Also they do make nice gas motorhomes that get the job done as well as a deisel at less cost to you.
My local USBANK beat Camping World on interest and down payment, but when I told CW that I wanted to finance outside of CW, and I could just bring them a check, they told me the deal was no longer. I am guessing there were some hidden $$$ in the CW deal they would have lost, like kickback from Great Western Bank, their financial vendor. I ended up going with CW, but my bank told me call them in 6mos and I can refinance the loan with them at the lower rate, if it is still available.
X2 on USBank. They are pretty competitive on RV loans.
X3, US Bank did my deal as well.
Yes many dealerships do make a fee from using their preferred banks..