RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'timmac' found 344 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 18  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Ford ElDorado 460 1986 model vs. 1984 Toyota Sunrader

Your worrying about the cost of gas ??, do you have any idea what a older RV will cost to keep up or just get repaired, your best bet for now is a 4 cylinder car and a tent.. :B
timmac 08/31/15 02:30pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: F53 Drivability

I know this has probably been covered ad nauseam in the past, but I can seem to find any info from the past posts. I have already done the budget stabilizer modification and it helps, but my handling on my 2013 Winnebago Vista is still like rowing a bathtub on the ocean. I am almost always towing a Jeep Wrangler while driving, but I have problems with or without towing. What suspension/steering mods have y'all done on the F53 chassis that helped most, and what did not work? Also, I drive in the mountains a lot, and the engine noise gets really annoying pretty quickly, and my wife and I can't even carry on a conversation. Any solutions for the noise? After 11,000 miles, I'm thinking I have to make a change to this rig, move up to a diesel pusher, or go back to a 5er! Thanks in advance for your reply! Your going to have to do improvements and than you will be happy, you have one already done, what you need next is Monroe shocks, because they ride softer than the stock shocks, airbags also work good set at proper pressure {50psi in back and 22 psi in front}, and the best way for the noise is sound deadening material with sound proofing material installed over the top, do the doghouse, parts of the fire wall and under the floor under the drivers/passenger seat, I did all this and my ride is softer and at least 50 percent quieter. The reason DP ride better is because they spend more $$ in that department to make it ride soft, gas chassis cost a whole lot less and they skip in that area, also the motorhome makers add no sound proofing in the doghouse area what so ever, use that $100,000 less that you paid for the gas chassis and do improvements, it should cost under $5000 for the improvements and you can keep the extra $95,000 and have a nice vacation..
timmac 08/29/15 02:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ideal length for Class A

My rule for full timing is go large above 34 foot if possible with at least 2 slide outs, under 34 foot for part time living and camping. I currently have a 33 foot with 2 slides {I am not a full timer} and its roomy but full timing with wife and dog I would say it might feel to small over time.
timmac 08/29/15 01:50pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: removing tub/shower to make storage

I would just cover the tub with a rubber mat and put plastic totes in the tub for storage. Removing the tub/shower would be a lot of work, and kill your resale/trade in value.I would agree. X 2 :B
timmac 08/23/15 08:00pm Travel Trailers
RE: AirLift System On Ford F-53, Adding Motion Control Units

I too have all 4 bags on my F53 controlled independently. The roll you feel is due to having them plumb together. Very easy way to see which way you like it with out spending a lot. Google your question on air springs or whatever you want to call them. Many pages to read. This is just one from my point of view. Either way works. In a 4-valve system, front and rear bags are “paired” together. Although this may save a few bucks in parts, the vehicles handling will suffer severely! This is because in a 4-valve setup, since front and rear air springs are paired together, air can transfer between each pair of bags which is especially apparent when cornering. As you may have guessed, 4-valve setups suffer from severe body roll. This type of setup is largely responsible for the common misperception that air ride handles like a boat. In modern day 8-valve setups such as any of the Bag Riders Management Packs, your air springs are isolated for optimal handling characteristics. Thanks that sounds like my issue, when going down the highway I have little issues but when going off my driveway or into gas stations and such at a angle I can get the nasty roll, my bags are only tied together in 2 sections, backs are together and fronts together, I think I will give the motion control units a try since its a easy install. And 2 the post above about my shocks they are new, I believe its the air bag pressures pushing the air between the other bag and causing this issue even though its minor.
timmac 08/22/15 06:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: AirLift System On Ford F-53, Adding Motion Control Units

I have all 4 bags on my F53 controlled independently from the drivers seat. I think it is less expensive than what you are looking at, and can be changed on the fly. I originally got it because I needed about 1" to clear the tail on my driveway. I just air up the backs and dump the fronts just before I pull in. I have never experienced the sway you seem to be getting. Mine are not controlled independently, I can fill both bags in back at same time as well as the front bags and I think this might be my problem is when leaning to one side the air is forced out the bags on the side leaning and into the other side causes it to roll back and forth as they talk about in the video above, I could run all new lines and set it up independently and new gauges and control panel as yours but seems like a lot of work, so thinking maybe the motion control units will do just as good and only take a few minutes to install.
timmac 08/21/15 10:31pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Strange Message While Surfing Internet

Yep just shut down and reboot and its gone..
timmac 08/21/15 09:21pm Technology Corner
RE: AirLift System On Ford F-53, Adding Motion Control Units

Here is a video about the motion control units https://youtu.be/WpdMG40B4-w
timmac 08/21/15 08:52pm Class A Motorhomes
AirLift System On Ford F-53, Adding Motion Control Units

I have 4 airlift air bags on my F-53 chassis that I added and the 2 bags in back are tied together as one as well as the fronts are tied together as one with air fill control in the cab, what I am experiencing is the side to side rolls when come off my driveway and going into gas stations at a angle, been told its the airbags releasing air on one side and going to other side and causes these hard rolls back and forth that last for about 5 seconds. So I found this product called Motion Control Units for air bags from super steer but they advertise them for mostly diesel motorhomes with factory airbags, they slow the rate of air going out the bags to stop the roll, would it work the same for my after market bags, they have the correct size for my lines, will cost about $350 for 2 pairs, front and back. Anyone here use this and what was your results.. http://www.supersteerparts.com/products/supersteer-motion-control-unit-14---under-30000-gvw.html http://store.hendersonslineup.com/Images/MCU-PRmed.jpg
timmac 08/21/15 08:45pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: EPDM roof, Is it toast?

Really EPDM rubber roofs only last 10 or so years. I would not chance it at all. Water damage will cost far more than a roof. So, my 15 year old EPDM roof (which doesn't leak and still looks good) should be replaced??? Why??? I agree, if the rubber roof is cleaned and cared for it can last 20 plus years even in the desert sun.. To the OPer you can also go to Lowes and get the white solar roof coating and apply that, wont cost much and does work.
timmac 07/30/15 11:51pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Thor Motorhome Issues

You are going to have to learn how to fix the small things by yourself and let the warranty take care of the big stuff or your motorhome will spend more time at the dealer and not at a campground..
timmac 07/30/15 11:41pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: What has happened to Winnebago Quality?

This whole thread only reinforces why I keep polishing my 95 Bounder. Richard Yes I agree with the Bounders before Fleetwood went bankrupt, I have a 08 Bounder pre bankrupt Fleetwood and its been great, yes a few thing here and there but nothing that needed to go to the dealer about.. Oh and mine has the full body paint, much easier to polish :p
timmac 07/21/15 10:26pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hitch Hog Where To Buy ??

Search out Trailer Toad......Hitch Hog never made it to maket but the Trailer Toad did.... Thanks just checked them out and its $3300 for the 3500lb Trailer Toad, sort of a high cost, wonder if I could have my own made for around a 1000 bucks or less.
timmac 07/20/15 05:12pm Dinghy Towing
Hitch Hog Where To Buy ??

Was looking at this Hitch Hog on YouTube but cannot find out if they were ever made and if so where can I get one, I search the internet without results. https://youtu.be/8nkcEzvXHbc http://i1.ytimg.com/vi/V7987fFomOg/hqdefault.jpg
timmac 07/19/15 01:44am Dinghy Towing
RE: We want to buy our 1st coach and eventually go full time

I would keep the 5ver. FT for 8 months to a year. After that you will know exactly what you want and need. Yep that is what I would do, keep what you have now and try full timing 1st to see if you like that, because buying new now and changing your mind about full timing in a year will be expensive.
timmac 07/13/15 06:56pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Travel

65 foot is the max in most states and a some allow 70 foot.
timmac 07/13/15 06:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

Geez just upgrade to new rear lights and go LED, new rear lights are not that expensive.
timmac 07/13/15 06:29pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Bishop, Ca. to Las Vegas via Hwy 6 & 95

I have done that route a lot in class A and C, good road, much better than taking 395 down to I-15, however travel with full fuel tank not a lot of fuel stops that way but other than that you will be fine. Oh yea one more thing drive at least 62 mph or more if your not towing or you will have lots of cars and semis behind you trying to past if your going slow, so many times I have got behind other motorhomes that drive 55 and all it does is cause problems.
timmac 07/13/15 06:13pm Roads and Routes
RE: Thor Miramar, Vista, and Bounder

Go with the Bounder, good motorhome as far as I am concerned.
timmac 07/13/15 06:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Looking To Buy A Dash Cam, Pros and Cons

He told the officer I pulled in to his lane, changed his story to he was avoiding a pothole after he was told I had a dashcam. Here is the video link; http://vid1028.photobucket.com/albums/y346/Bob_Walchli/20140617-053311_EVT_D_zpspjzh2jdb.mp4 That's why I am getting one, so many people pull out in front of my motorhome because they think I am going slow or just don't want to be behind me, even was cut off once when a person passed me, I hit my brakes hard to avoid a crash, its time to have a dash cam..
timmac 06/27/15 12:53pm Technology Corner
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 18  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2015 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS