| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: Atwood cooktop problems

Sounds like they're burning fine...
It would be interesting to know the models of the two stovetops (fiver/moho). It could be that the Atwood just has lower-BTU burners, though it does seem like most RV stove/oven combos have at least one 9,000 BTU burner, the rest usually 6,000.
They're all usually much "weaker" than a house stove. I have a gas stove in my house and believe you me, I miss the power of those burners when I'm cooking in the trailer!
Side note:
I disagree that stoves have their own regulators- most are designed/installed to run off the rig's as-regulated propane supply.
And I disagree with your statement and agree with Doug.
|
trailrider
|
03/18/13 11:37pm |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: 2014 Chevrolet Web Site

In all that bling does it ever say what the horsepower and torque numbers are on the engines?
|
trailrider
|
01/18/13 11:20pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
 |
RE: a/c purge

You need to vacuum all air and moisture out with something like this first.
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_11979.jpg width=675
|
trailrider
|
01/10/13 11:38am |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: Hydroflame Furnace - won't shut off (flame and blower)

It looks like you have a Dometic Duo Therm thermostat that controls the AC and the furnace. The thermostat sends a signal to a circuit board in the ceiling under the ac unit. If it calls for heat you usually hear a click in the ceiling. It sounds like the relay on that circuit board is stuck closed sending power to the furnace permanently.
|
trailrider
|
01/01/13 05:55pm |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: Water pump problem.

I have had stubborn ones like that and when all the normal tricks fail I do this.
Take your winterizing hose that is hooked to the intake of the pump and fill it with antifreeze. Then pressurize that hose with your mouth and it will usually all of a sudden start pumping. Then hurry up and stuff it in the jug of antifreeze. You might have to do it more than once.
|
trailrider
|
12/03/12 09:03am |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: BW Manufacturers 6345, question on battery charging.

You need to check the voltage at the battery terminals when you are plugged in to shore power. The converter should be putting out around 13.6 volts to charge the battery.
|
trailrider
|
11/20/12 07:24pm |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: Melted power supply line on new to us camper

It sounds like it was just loose wire nuts that caused your problem. If you replaced all the parts that got hot/melted you should be good to go. Loose connections cause high resistance that produces heat that makes stuff melt.
And yes I've seen it before. Also check all the set screws in the 120 volt breaker box and 12 volt fuse panel, they will loosen over time and cause the same problems.
|
trailrider
|
06/23/12 10:57pm |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: Silly question : Which position to turn Swan HWT bypass

To be sure, all you have to do is drain the water heater and pressurize the system again (turn water pump on or hook hose to city water hookup) If you get no water coming out of the drain that is the bypass position. If water comes out of the drain that is the normal postion.
|
trailrider
|
06/05/12 08:29am |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: Suburban waterheater dead on 110

Did you check the ECO reset button? It's under a square black plastic cover on the left side of the water heater. Two round rubber spots that you push to reset. One side is 12 volts for the LPG side and the other side is for the 120 volt.
|
trailrider
|
05/29/12 10:41pm |
Tech Issues
|