I have held an Align-a-site in my hand and have used it to help spot a clear path, It has several uses that make it very interesting,
FIrst, you enter your zip code in the zip code field on the antenna aming page of your receiver, Then dial the settings into your ALS, Then step outside and holding it so the levels indicate level look through the view finder.. Good view of a TREE, try a different spot.
Now hook it to the dish, again line everythign up (2 bubbles and a compass) and you should have signal. ine tune
Those little in-line analog meters are, in my not very humble opinion, JUNK.
The best meter (the align-a-site is a set up aid, it is not a meter and it's not the "Last word") the best meter,, Well that would be a Bird Dog, but the software in a dish network receiver is every bit as good, and the software in a DirecTV receiver is .. Well, I'd give it about an 8 on where the bird-dog and dish are 10's.
Right Sat won't work through the booster plate. It also does not work through a multi switch, splitter or any device other than the cable and bulkhead connectors.
But Winegard explains how to re-task the park cable as a sat lead... I do not suggest doing that, I suggest putting dedicated RG-6 and quality at that.
Sat may work fine with the el-cheapo lowest bidder stuff,, but will work better with quality cable.
If stand by what I said, I do admit however that most of my Disposal experience has been with In-Sink-erator models both home and industrial.
And these do indeed pump.
Watch how fast water flows out of the sink with the unit turned off, Now turn it on and see how fast the sink drains.. Why the difference.. Because the disposal is pumping.
And to change the design so you need a thermocouple.. and so the pilot will be shut off if it goes out.. YOu MUST change teh control valve
That and the Thermocouple (S) are the entire job.
For those who do not know how thermocouples work.....
They generate a voltage when hot, this voltage is applied to either a solid state device or to a magnet (causing current to flow) depending on the appliance,
The magnet is not strong enough to pull itself in (The button you push does that) but it is strong enough to hold.
There is now way a THERMOCOUPLE can fail allowing gas to flow. Absolutly nonn. Can not happen.
However the control valve CAN fail dangerous.
I agree with the "Move it" suggestion.
NOTE that the wire leads on many volt meters are long enough to pick up stray electric fields no matter where you are.. Kind of scary.
(Spent a good part of the day with a digital voltmeter in my hand.. Finally got the voltage I desired on the display.. had to re-build a wall wart).
I have seen some body shop estimates for damage not much different.
The problem is that it is all but impossible to exactly match paint for a small job, so you end up painting a good size hunk of the body.
And thus, that estimate is in line with many I've seen.
HERE is what I suggest.
To me the linked photo was not all that clear but go to a body shop near you that works on RV's and ask THEM,, After all, they are the experts.
The rig's leveling jacks are designed to hold up the rig.. NOT to keep it from moving side to side or front to back.. If you lift ONE rear wheel of the ground then the rig can move forward or back (Since the parking brake and locks are on the drive shaft) and turn your jacks into very expensive pretzels.
If you lift BOTH either front or rear wheels off the ground then a side wind can pretzel the jacks the same way.
However using other types of supports (Jacking the wheels up with, say a 12 ton air/hydraulic jack and lowering them down on Jack Stands or on vapor blocks) is OK. No problem there at all.
Dang.. I can not telly you how many times I've typed those exact words about tires off the ground.
That said.. It is recommended you extend the jacks as you would if camping to take PART of the load off the suspension and tires.
NEVER take it all off unless you take special precautions to insure no movement, Jacks cost about 500 a pop (hydraulic on E-Bay) plus installation and I fear that will be expensive as well.
Tires: About 600 a pop but installation is included in that price.
Yes, both auto manufactures, Chassis manufactures and Body (RV) Builders make changes as the year progresses.
For example.. The chassis under my feet is a 2005.5 (They made a change in the middle of the model year). Which by the way is a good thing.
How do I know it's a 2005.5.. Well that's the year they added a ZERK fitting mid year. And I have that ZERK, and it's a 2005, so....
You will also not be able to use an outside cable connection to power a satellite antenna if you use the Sensar Pro. However, you can add an A/B switch to that coax end where your current power supply is (or where the Sensar Pro will be) and send one output from the A/B to the Sensar and the other output to the satellite receiver and that will allow you to use the one cable or the connection of your choice.
Not true, the outside cable connection can be routed to a Sat receiver same as it can on the standard wall plate.
HOWEVER.. here is what I would suggest......
Always wire your rig as the factory wired it ...
If you change the wall plate to a sensor Pro.. Then on the cable in on the pro, put an A/B switch, A gets the current park cable, B the RF-OUT from (To Television) feed from the sat receiver, assuming it has such a feed (if it does not then forget the A/B switch)
A for Analog (most park cable provide analog)
B for Binary (All Sat TV transmissions are digital)
And install brand new RG-6 for the Sat receiver if there is not already a dedicated SAT cable in place.
Why: Well usually the body builder put in "Lowest bidder" cable for that park cable feed, and that will be low quality RG-59, very bad for sat TV work, On my coach there is easily 50 feet of that stuff between the inside end and the outside connectin, that is equal, loss wise, to over 200 feet of quality RG-6 and 300 feet is the limit.
Ok Normally if the surge guard is built into the RV then it can be any neutral connection "South" (Park side) of the surge guard.
HOWEVER... You said the electrician checked power to the surge guard (Question: Did he open it's case?) and it was good, and into the rig (before or after the Surge guard).
You need to measure voltages with a digital meter AT THE terminals INSIDE the surge guard.. NOTE: do not do this unless you have experience.
Converter powers 12 volt stuff when you are connected to shore or generator power, It also charges batteries. On the fuse/breaker box door is a model number, Please post it so we can rate your converter.
INVERTER takes power from the batteries and uses it to power it's loads.
IF I were designing a house system I might well decide to have the electronics powered full time by the inverter and put in a converter large enough to provide power to that as well.. (There is a reason for this) Years ago I visited an electronics store and they had what was called a power conditioner, You could put a truly scarey waveform into it, vary the voltage all over the place, Nasty spikes, Square waves, whatever you wanted to do, and what came out was some of the sweetest looking sine waves I ever saw on a scope display.
The unit had 3 major components
Converter----Battery---True Sine wave Inverter.
And that is the system I just described where the house inverter always provides TV power.
Yes, someone has, A few years ago someone posted a thread in one of the forums here showing photos and all.
And for the guy who said garbage disposals do not pump.. NOT TRUE, they do.
There are many types of pumps, one is centrifugal A disposal is this kind of pump, by "Throwing" liquid toward the outside and putting a "Vent" (outlet) there it pumps. and this is exactly how they are made.
In addition a Garbage disposal literally chopps/grinds semi-solids into little bits.
The macerator pump is two devices,, If you look down the 3" throat you see the macerator, Little blades, may be metal or plastic, which stir things up and encurage breakup.. What you do not see is the pump which is below the metal plate, I am not sure what the proper name for this pump is but it works by varying the size of chambers as they turn in an offset circle (the moving disc and vanes and the compartment they move in are not concentric) so as the wheel turns the vanes compress and then pass the outlet forcing the fluid out. Then they expand and suck down another load from the macerator compartment.
Work good they do.
One suggestion, If you decide to buy a FLO JET like I did (portable) and use it only when needed.. Put a large flat screwdriver in the case with it.
on the bottom of the motor is a slotted shaft.
Turn it (I believe it turns clockwise) a few turns before hooking up the pump.
Saves fuses and @*(#$#@! ing.
One BIG issue is that as you point out, the neutral
in these old 3 wire systems (and some 4 wire as well)neutral was often NOT the same gauge, it was smaller.
That was, in fact, the primary purpose for my post..
IF all 3 wires in a 3 wire outlet are the same size, a 4th wire (Safety ground) can often be added fairly easily. Not code, but still safe.
But if the neutral is reduced size.. There is no safe way save running brand new cable.
I see many things done that are less than safe.. This thread covers a bunch of them.
Now, to the O/P (Since the guy I'm replying to clearly understands this)
here is what happens in a 120/240 system and why the neutral needs to be the same size (or larger) than the hots.
The advantage to the dual voltage system is this.
Let's assume there is 0.25 ohm resistance in each leg between your appliances and the transformer.. That means that at 10 amps you are loosing 5 volts 2.5 volts each way.
So 120 volts is now 115 volts.
But you turn on the other A/C, and "Balance" the legs.
now that 115 volts magically becomes 117.5 There is no longer any "Return current" the neutral (it is being used a 2nd time and returning through the other hot).
BUT.. What happens if everything you have turned on (one A/C, the Microwave, and perhaps some other stuff) is all on the same leg?
now you are pulling 30,40,50 amps all of it running through 1 leg and the neutral.. IF the wires are all the same size, NO problem (Save the voltage drop is greater)
If the neutral is smaller... .. Well the Fire Department still makes house calls.
Well, there are several factors.
Network programming for the most part has taken a dump over the years. Many good shows such as the original Ironsides, or Perry Mason to mention just two shows Raymond Burr starred in are history and the replacements are not nearly as good (Just finished watching the 1st and now watching the 2nd of those by the way). The modern Ironsides is not nearly as good as his was. Hawaii Five-O well the original show had some really good mind against mind, the new one.... More Shoot em up, slug em down and high speed chase, Not so much mental work.
The same with a lot of other shows.. The exceptions are the CSI shows and the original NCIS (Gibbs team) NCIS LA, is back to high speed chases and slug it out.
and on it goes.
Thus .. Well thankfully there are some tier 2 networks.
So my TV watching depends on how many tier 2 networks are in the area I'm parked in.. Here in SC I get Me TV, My TV, Antenna TV and more. Lots of QUALITY Television from years past.
Now,, they are finally getting a few decent shows back on network, But there is still too much "ACITON" and not enough mystery.
Short answer is yes, there is.
You set the temp control on the AC to max cold, As cold as you can set it, (Bypassing the built in T-Stat is an option).
I googled: cool jack, thermostat outlet adapter
I found: This item Among others.
The one I used to own was a "Cool Jack" (They made a seperate "heat Jack" by the way) but I've not seen that brand again since, But that was the reason I put it in search.
The link works for both heaters and A/C.
And the google search found a host of others as well, Some are Pendant types, Some,, Well this was found with that search.
The lights are just lights, they do not deter mice or bugs or anything else that I know of with the possible exception of a specific type of person who fears the light..
And a 12ga works better with those. You don't even need shells (Well dummy shells may help) just the sound of the pump being racked is enough to deter them big time cause they know what follows the Shasshunk of it being racked (A BOOM and a SCREAM, Their scream) and thus they make hast to be elsewhere before you can pull the trigger.
That is very common (Removing and reseting connectors fixes it)
Oh, one other thing that can cause occasional IGNITION, (Which results in symptoms such as you describe) The ignition points.
On my RV were 2x what they were supposed to be.. Parents Sticks & bricks oil fired furnace 4x.. In both cases resetting the gap made a BIG improvement (like 100%)
Ok, I will answer, Dryer outlets come in two flavors and one of them can be wired two different ways.
The two flavors are 3 and 4 wire
Now if it's a 3 wire the answer on converting ins likely NO, you will really need to pull new 4-wire feed line to do it properly and safely.
If it's a 4 wire then you need to look at the wires.
There are 4 wires, One white, and either a black and a red, or two blacks, and a bare or green.
Forget the bare/green for the momnent.
Are the black, red and white wires ALL THE SAME SIZE.
If so, then you can convert.
Much as I'd like to see that Faraday cage.. And there are a few places I go where I suspect they have one (My phone goes from good signal to zero just that fast).
Fact is.. There are people who absolutely MUST be reachable...
Motorcycle instructor on day one tells his class as they go out to the lot to start riding: Any of you with cell phones or pagers, Unless you are a transplant surgeon or some such that needs to be instantly reachable 24x7 turn 'em off till class is over.
A hand goes up: Sir, what should I do, I am a transplant surgeon and...
(The instructor wore his pager till class was over).
How would you like it if say your spouse was awaiting a transplant, one that will save his/her life, and the transplant surgeon is in a caged store and thus misses the call and by the time he gets checked out and steps out it's too late?