RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog


RV Sales




RV Parks


RV Club


RV Buyers Guide


Roadside Assistance


Extended Service Plan


RV Travel Assistance


RV Credit Card


RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact  

Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'willald' found 61 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 4  
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: 2013 Ford CMAX Sel towed 4 down accruing miles!

We've been towing a 2013 Ford Fusion Hybrid four down for 4 years now with no problems, and never any accrued mileage when towing. The Fusion Hybrids are very, very similar to the CMAX, they use pretty much the exact same (hybrid) drive train. I think the 'key' to it is (pun intended), like already said, you must tow with ignition in ACC position, not ON. If its in ON position, yes, you will accrue mileage (I know 'cause I accidentally did that once, haha). If you have the keyless ignition/push button start, its a whole different ballgame, and the procedure to get it in the right mode to tow is different, and that may be where something is not being done right, causing miles to accrue. Bottom line, though, is, that should not be happening.
willald 05/24/17 12:00pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Road Recommended by Good Sam and Completely Unpassable

I think this is a made-up story by someone who wants attention. ;) Yeah, brand new member, this is their one and only post....Call me just a bit skeptical of this story, too.... Will
willald 05/24/17 11:44am Good Sam Club
RE: class a motorhomes

willard very good info, just what i was looking for, just for giggles price of tires for each size? That, varies a LOT based on brand, profile, etc. No matter what numbers I throw out, somebody will disagree and say they can be had cheaper, so I'm almost afraid to answer that. I'll just say, that you can figure on 22" tires costing on average, around $100 more each, than comparable 19.5" tires would. my concern was like with travel trailers, 5th wheels they come with the cheapest tires on earth, was wondering if its the same with class A? No, that's one good thing about Motorhomes. You don't have to worry about the tires self-destructing like trailer tires are notorious for doing. Having owned RV trailers for years before this, I will say that is one very welcome change with the Motorhome, not having to worry about tires disintegrating anymore like trailer tires are known to do. As long as you take care of them, keep them inflated properly, don't overload them, etc....Motorhome tires are good for 6-7 years. As already said, these tires typically age out, they don't wear out. Now, when you DO have to replace Motorhome tires, whether its 19.5" tires or 22" tires....Be prepared to dig deep into the ol' bank account. You'll spend a good 2 or 3k on a set of (6) Motorhome tires. Will
willald 05/24/17 11:40am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Motorhome hitch receiver has play in it

Go to your local hardware store and buy a pack of plastic shims. The kind used to install doors and windows. Drive the narrow end into the receiver till tight. Break off remainder sticking out. Solid as a rock! I tried this, a few issues, for one unless taped, the shims will eventually work their way out, secondly, when they are jammed in there it's almost impossible to get the ball (or whatever you have installed for towing) out. Imagine jamming in wedges which also wedges whatever device you have in the receiver and now that the shims are broken how do you remove it? And left with broken shims, what do you do next time? New shims? Ahhh, you just confirmed what I suspected and mentioned in previous post, Effy. Don't think I gonna mess with shims, as we do have to take the tow bar out from time to time, to put a bike rack on back of the Motorhome to carry bikes instead of towing. The solution I proposed earlier works great and is so simple not to mention free if you have the tools. Simply drill and tap a 3/8 hole in the top of the receiver, screw in a bolt and snug up when you are towing, back off to remove. Easy cheesy and works like a charm. Took me a total of 5 mins and was free. Been using this method for 5 years. Never any movement, never any issues. And takes only a few seconds when hooking up. Nothing to remove or add. I like that idea, but my issue with it is, I worry about that weakening the hitch receiver and causing much bigger problems. Will
willald 05/24/17 08:32am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Motorhome hitch receiver has play in it

I've typically used hitch immobilizers like already mentioned (basically a square U bolt that clamps onto the tow bar, receiver). They've worked fine for me. However, the idea just mentioned about sliding shims in the receiver, sounds cool. Especially the idea of making the shims from empty oil jars (recycling, haha). I got to wonder, though: If you slide shims in like that and make it real tight...How hard is it going to be to get the tow bar out when you need to? Especially if you're broken off the shims so that they aren't going to be easy to pull out. You gonna have to replace the shims every time you have to take the tow bar out for anything? Granted, for most of us that wouldn't be very often..
willald 05/24/17 08:10am Class A Motorhomes
RE: class a motorhomes

Well, like already said, for 2011 or newer, your only choice for Chassis is Ford (F53), assuming you want gas. As to the question of smaller or larger tires: Yes, some larger Class A gassers have the big 22" tires, while some will have the smaller 19.5" tires. As to pros and cons: 22" tires will ride better, and be a little less 'squishy'. That, and they typically will have a little more weight allowance. However, the disadvantage to the larger tires is that they are a good bit more expensive when it comes time to replace them. Also, if you are one that choses to carry a spare tire and wants to be able to change it yourself...Unless you're in really good shape (body builder almost), this is MUCH more difficult, almost impossible, with 22" tires. Much, much easier to do with 19.5" tires. If you are one that maintains your tire pressures yourself, doing so with the 22" tires can be a bit more expensive, due to the fact they require more PSI, hence (possibly) a bigger air compressor. Anyway, hope this answers your question.
willald 05/24/17 07:59am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Couch out the door

We had our couch reupholstered about a year ago, and it came out the front door to go to the upholstery shop. Yes, had to be taken apart, then brought back in piece by piece and reassembled inside. Once disassembled, it came out the door easily. Only hard part was figuring out how it all went back together afterward. Came out great, though.
willald 04/15/17 07:30pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Not a good day Saturday

I think, there's just something about how RV trailer tires are treated, that makes them prone to an early demise. Doesn't matter if you pony up for LT tires or not - Sitting for long periods exposed to the elements, pushed to very edge of weight ratings, driven sometimes when not properly inflated, tight twisting when making turns.....These things take years of life away from a tire. Thats why sooo many recommend that trailer tires be replaced every 3 or 4 years, regardless. When we had an RV trailer, I always insisted on Maxxis (ST) tires only, and they got replaced every 4 years, no matter how good they looked. Never had a tire issue, in the 12 years we had various RV trailers. Still carry Good Sam ERS just in case, but have never had to use it with the RV.
willald 04/11/17 07:53am General RVing Issues
RE: Super Singles

This is nothing new and I am not sure why you think it is.. I'm not the one that said this was new, you did. You are the one that said, "Tell us what you think about your new singles after you pick up the first nail....". All I did was point out that super singles were nothing new to this particular poster, he has been using them for years. Thats all. He's heard all the reasons why some don't like them, and still choses to use them and is happy with them after using them for several years. I think thats great. If you don't like me or my posts, please feel free to block me so you don't have to ever deal with my responses in the future. I've been on these forums for 15 years, never felt the need yet to block anyone. Don't intend to start now. :) Will
willald 04/11/17 07:32am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Super Singles

Doing the math on my tires, I will actually save money buying singles. The 305/70/22.5 tires run over $700 each and the super single rear tire is about $850. Add in a rim and I'm still lower price than just buying duals. Tell us what you think about your new singles after you pick up the first nail in that tire and are crippled. ...If you'd read more before speaking, you'd see that Super Singles are hardly 'new' for this guy. He's been running them for several years and has been very happy with them. He's already heard from all the nay-sayers, and addressed all their old, tired points like this one very well. Personally, I respect TDINewGuy for bravely trying something new on an RV that nobody else seems to want to, and that it has worked out well for him. More power to him. :) FWIW, I looked into super singles once, as I was intrigued by the idea. Found that for my coach and its 19.5" tires, super singles are not a realistic option. They don't make a rim or super single tire that would fit with mine, at least not without some major modifications I don't want to do.
willald 04/10/17 11:59am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Steps not going down

SIMPLE test for power to Kwikee steps. Turn Chassis engine ON. Open and close the entry door. Watch the under step amber light. IF it goes on and OFF when opening and closing door the power to the step is correct. Then HIT the motor with a hammer(engine running) while opening and closing the door. IF the motor has a dead spot, it will eventually start to operate. If so, the motor is bad. Replace it. Doug Thank you Sir, This procedure worked on the third smack of the motor. Time to order a motor. I just replaced the motor in mine a few months ago. Mine quit after just 5 years use (2012 model - see signature). Smacking it didn't help, but since it wouldn't move at all, I immediately suspected the motor, so I disconnected it and verified via a continuity test, that the motor had shorted out internally and was dead. Soo, just ordered a new motor and put it in. Not a hard job, but definitely takes some patience, getting that motor positioned right, and getting all the bolts in place, with all the right spacers, etc. I'd plan on this taking you a good couple of hours, at least.
willald 04/06/17 09:26am Class A Motorhomes
RE: RV Financing / Zero Down Options?

Dont see any grumpy old men, just some snide comments Yep, snide comments, like telling how upside down someone will be if they don't finance a certain way, when nobody ever asked for that advice. Grit dog is right, and it is pretty funny that just as predicted very early on in this thread, almost immediately when this topic came up, we get unsolicited advice from the 'pay cash or do without' crowd. :) It never fails, hahaha. Will
willald 03/24/17 02:23pm General RVing Issues
RE: NC DMV safety inspection on class A DP

" It is more about money for the state. " Actually it is money for the service station guys. In 2009 there was proposed legislation to eliminate inspections in NC and the bill was killed by various trade organizations- The Independent Garage Owners of NC, The Automotive Service Association, and the Motor and Equipment Manufacturers Association, etc. Lobbyists all- That, really surprises me. Every shop I talk to about it (as well as friends I know that own service shops), every one of them HATES state inspections with a passion and wish they didn't have to do them. I know a few that quit doing inspections altogether because they are such a pain, and since the state mandates what they can charge for such, they make almost no money on them. Will
willald 03/21/17 01:58pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: NC DMV safety inspection on class A DP

Can't really give you any specific place to take it to, but must say as a fellow NC resident, I understand this frustration and must deal with it, too. Very few places want to deal with state inspections for our big rigs, because there is so little $$ in it, and to do it right (NCDMV technically requires it to be put on a lift) requires very expensive equipment that only big truck shops will have. Sooo, you have to find someone that has the lift, equipment to lift these rigs, or is willing to just sign off on the inspection without actually lifting it. Last year, I took it to a Camping World that has the huge lifts, regulary works on the big rigs. Guess what?! They didn't even put it on the lift, they just did the quick safety inspection, signed it off and sent me on my way! Nobody I've ever taken it to for inspection, whether they have the lift or not, actually will put it on a lift like they are supposed to. They just sign it off, haha. All I can tell you is, call around to various places like the ones already suggested, tell them what you have, see if they will do the inspection. Thats what I did. I eventually found one or two RV dealers fairly close that will do it. There's only one Ford dealer around here that will do it (my MH is on a Ford F53 chassis), but they're 45 minutes away. Found two RV dealers considerably closer than that who will do it, thats who I take it to.
willald 03/21/17 08:09am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fill up air in inner wheel

Did your stems have clamps? When you say clamps, do you mean, the piece that goes in the hole on the outer tire, to hold the long valve stem in place? If so, the answer is yes, we used those. They came with the dually valves in the form of a rubber oval-shaped piece that fit snugly into the hole and held the long dually valve in place (had a hole in center that valve stem came through). That was only thing the valves came with to hold it in place on the outside, and yes, we used them. We did not have TPMS caps at ends, either. Never have been a fan of TPMS systems that mount onto end of valve stems. The expansion and contraction of metals, or the differing metals wouldn't have anything to do with it, IMO, because there's a large rubber washer that's there at the mounting area to prevent that sort of failure modes. That's what I thought, too, but was really at a loss for any other way to explain why those long stems kept leaking.. Will
willald 03/20/17 03:21pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: I think we are done

Totally understand. Like a previous poster, this was precisely the reason we gave up our boat many years ago, and decided to focus just on camping/RVing. Boat got to where it was no longer fun, and not worth all the hassle. That was when it was time for it to go. The day will probably come, when we may well be forced to make the same very tough decision with ours. I don't even want to think about that, though, we're having too much fun with it now, even though we only get out with it 4 or 5 times a year. Anyway, Effy, have enjoyed your posts, and good luck with what whatever is next for you. :)
willald 03/20/17 03:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fill up air in inner wheel

For what it's worth to the OP, this is what I used to replace the original valve stems and to eliminate the braided extenders. Dually Solid Valve Stems I used to highly recommend the solid dually valve stems like these. Put them on when first bought our Motorhome back in 2012. However, after using them for a few years now and learned a thing or two over the years, I do NOT use or recommend them any more. I thought they were the perfect solution. One, single, one piece valve, no risk of leaking, and quick and easy to check, top off ALL tires, inner and outer. Here's the problem: I can't explain why, but the long ones that go on inner tires....They WILL leak. Have no idea how or where, but they do. I was constantly putting air in the rear inners, but rest of tires did not leak at all. Got rid of those valve stems on inners, and the leaking stopped immediately. Seemed they leaked the most, when climate changed from warm to cold or vice versa, which made me wonder if the issue is with the kind of metal these valves are made of, and maybe they expand/contract at too much different a rate than the wheels, causing leaking? Not sure. I know some will say this is normal with any/all valve stems, but I'm here to tell you, when I took off these valve stems, the leaking quit almost completely. The difference was drastic, and immediate. These dually valve stems, the long one for the inner...They LEAK, there is/was no denying it. Tire shop examined them (dually stems) very closely when they came off. Valve was not loose, rubber seal inside was not leaking or crushed. They couldn't explain it, either, but agreed from what I found, that those long dually valve stems needed to go. Now, I use braided extensions on inners, the airless kind. Meaning, even if the extension works loose or tears apart, no air will leak, because there is no air in it except when you hook a gauge or air pump to it. This is what I recommend for the inners, but you MUST make sure they are airless. You don't want any kind of extension that can leak air if it works loose. For the outers, for now I am still using the dually one piece U shaped valves, as they don't seem to leak as bad. If I can ever find airless U shaped valve extensions, I'll use those on the outers and do away with the dually valves on outers, too. Bottom line: AIRLESS valve extensions are the way to go, and the only thing I trust now.
willald 03/20/17 03:05pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Who has the highest mileage Ford V10 motorhome?

Look up 'carringb' on this forum, if he doesn't find this thread first and post to it. He has an e350 van with a v10 in it. I know it's not a class A, but IIRC he has well over 300,000 miles on his v10 (original, not bee rebuilt), and it's still going strong far as I know. He has towed several different trailers with it, some very large. Great guy, too, I got to meet him once and hang out with him when he was here in my neck of the woods several years ago. Very knowledgeable about the v10 and lots of other things, too. I've owned two v10s myself, one in a Ford excursion we used to tow a big RV trailer with, and now the one in the motorhome (see signature). Great engine, I really like it.
willald 03/04/17 06:44am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Looking for Fleetwood 40G. 2009-2011

We really like that model, too! Almost bought one on two different occasions, as a trade up from what we have now (see signature). In one case, we couldn't agree on a price; The other one, the unit (40G) was just too old, worn for our liking. I still look occasionally, but for most part have decided to stick with what we have. We found that this particular model/floorplan is pretty popular and in high demand, especially good quality used units. There's not many on RV trader, and when they do go on there, they don't last long. Dealer told me that when he gets those units in on trade, he usually has them sold before they even hit the sales floor or got advertised anywhere. That being the case, I would suggest contacting a few dealers, let them know what you are looking for, see if they will contact you if they come into one of these 40G units. That may give you a better chance of finding one. That is how we found one that we almost bought. Also, will tell you from the research we did on these, that the year models you are talking about, (up through 2011) we specifically avoided. We didn't want anything from Fleetwood made before 2012 for various reasons. For this particular unit, one reason was that before I believe it was 2012, they used a different engine that seemed very underpowered for this size coach. Other reason was that anything older than 2012, you get into units that were built during the time Fleetwood was in the middle of some major re-organization, and they built their fair share of 'lemons' during that time period. If at all possible, I'd try to get into a 2012 or newer unit if you can.
willald 02/27/17 02:26pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Child seat installation

...DO NOT let your child face the rear. DO NOT seat them sideways, side impact is not the same as sideways in a front end collision. Make sure the belts are anchored good. I had our granddaughter in the front passenger seat. It was the only good seat, anchor wise, and the seat back protected her from flying missile hazards from the rear. Don't let anyone face the rear or face sideways? LOL, you just eliminated nearly EVERY place for anyone to sit in a motorhome but the driver and passenger up front! Haha, now, a 35-40' 20,000 lb+ RV can only carry two people in it. Really? If that was the case, NOBODY should ever own these things but couples with no guests, children or grandchildren ever riding with them. If everyone truly followed that approach...Wellll, pretty soon there wouldn't BE hardly any Motorhomes, because there'd be soooo few people buying them, many companies would just quit making them. A towable RV becomes a much, much better choice, then, if we all must go by these ridiculous rules. Rick's previous post is a much more realistic approach to this issue, and I agree with it 100%. The fact you are in something so massive, where you sit up so much higher than most other vehicles, really gives you a level of safety that kinda changes things. I do agree, that you should not let your passengers run wild in the RV while you are on the road. That is asking for trouble. Everyone should be seat belted, if a seatbelted seat is available for them. And, you should do what you can to insure you have seat-belted places for everyone to sit thats going to be riding with you regularly. Even if that means installing extra seat belts (I've done that, too). Getting up occasionally to get a drink, snack, or to use the facilities is OK, and I do allow that, but other than that, everyone needs to stay seated, and in a seatbelt. Yes, facing sideways or backwards is not as safe as facing forward. However, IMO that is just one of the risks you have to accept when you move up to a Motorhome. Its one of the things you trade off for the added luxury, comfort of a motorized RV. It is mitigated well, I think, by the fact the RV is sooo much heavier than most other vehicles, and you are above where most vehicles will be.
willald 01/30/17 08:10am Class A Motorhomes
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 4  

New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2017 CWI, Inc. © 2017 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS