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 > Your search for posts made by 'willald' found 63 matches.

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RE: Bike Rack

I looked long and hard at the double hitch receiver noted above, and at the idea of carrying bikes between the Motorhome and Toad. Ultimately, chose not to go that route, because: 1. Most hitch mount bike racks, when you look closely at the warranty for such, it says they are NOT recommended or supported, to be used on the back of an RV. I only found 1 or 2 specific models that allow, support this kind of use. 2. We found that with bikes mounted that way, it is impossible when unhitching the toad, to fold up the tow bar. Bikes would have to come off whenever you unhitch. For us, this just wouldn't work. We like to unhitch (and fold up the tow bar) before we get to our site in some cases, when at campground that have tight, narrow roads going to the campsite. 3. With our tow bar (Readybrute), Using a dual hitch receiver and bike rack physically would not work - it would get in the way of the Readybrake actuator arm. 4. We like to be able to carry the bikes on the towed vehicle (Ford Fusion), because sometimes we want to bring bikes places we can't bring the Motorhome very well. For last few years, we carried bikes on back of the toad using a hitch mounted rack. That worked OK, but eventually got to where didn't like them back there, either. Just seems like a lot of weight to be hanging off the back, where you can't even see it. That, and didn't like how it blocks your access to the trunk back there, as well as makes your tail lights tougher for anyone to see. Soo, a few months ago, we went to using Yakima roof racks on top of towed vehicle. Like this arrangement sooooooo much better, wish I would have done it from the get-go!! Much easier to get bikes on, off of there, and much better for the bikes, since they aren't rubbing against each other like they were before. That, and like how trunk access is no longer blocked, and tail lights are clearly visible from behind. Yes, roof racks are expensive, but I highly, highly recommend this approach over anything else if you possibly can do it. I got all the parts for mine via Craigs List which made it much cheaper. Like said before, wish I would have gone this route from the beginning.
willald 07/21/17 12:56pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Brake Buddies, BrakePro, raodmaster, evenbrake ???

mowermech, We will just continue to use our RVI 3 braking system, with a breakaway cable, and be legal everywhere. In towing, It doesn't matter what State you are from, like a drivers license for a vehicle over 26k, it depends what State you are in at the time. Here's the Brake Buddy tow guide, that specially states, if " what you are towing " is at or over the listed weightsBrake Buddy tow guide To each his own. It's a safety issue. It's already dangerous enough out there driving these rigs around. Why chance it? Happy camping and safe travels ...As mowermech pointed out, you have to be careful when you quote 'towing laws' posted on the websites of brake system manufacturers. Its a little like asking a drug dealer if what they sell is addictive or not. The 'advice' given there is going to be just a little skewed, and not very reliable. :) If you feel better using a brake system, by all means, use it and enjoy. They probably are a good idea in most cases. We use a ReadyBrake system (ReadyBrute tow bar), and are very happy with it. However, don't be misled into thinking that such systems are required by law in 'most states', because it just isn't true. As mowermech pointed out so well, when you really look close at the REAL laws (not brake system manufacturer's lose interpretation of such), you're going to find that the majority of states do NOT require such. And, in the states that they are required, the laws are frequently sooo vague, they are just about impossible to enforce, anyway. If you do get a system, I recommend systems that are not a 'brake in a box' type setup that you have to put in and take out each time you tow. Problem with those is, having to constantly install and set it up, you introduce a lot of extra risk there for not doing something right one time, and potentially causing bigger problems than not having a system at all. That, and there is the temptation, that for shorter trips, you may decide not to put it in at all. And, Murphy's law is that such a trip would be the one where you'd wish you had put it in! Better to have a system that stays installed, and all you have to do is plug it in or hook it up and go. That way its always installed and working when you tow. Systems of that nature include Air Force One, M&G, Readybrake, Invisibrake, etc.
willald 07/21/17 12:26pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Coach-Net has changed it's business practices for the worse

Hard to find a thread with more confused people and misinformation. I have my Coach-Net renewal bill in my hand. Full roadside assistance, towing, and everything I expect from an Emergency roadside service policy is $79 a year. You can spend $149 for a lot of needless add-ons, and frills, but there is little reason for the average RVer to need it. So, lets review. The product is available online or via snail mail, and you do not have to obtain it from an RV dealer, or go to one to renew. A year of coverage renewal is $79, NOT $150, and I have an email from then with a 10% renewal discount, so this year, it's even cheaper. Thanks for the clarification, soren. I was having a hard time believing Coach Net could get away with charging soooo much more for ERS than Good Sam does. Seems if it was that huge a difference, everybody would dump Coach net and go to Good Sam. Does Coach net only cover your RV, or will they, like Good Sam, cover you if you break down with your other (non RV related) vehicles? Will
willald 07/21/17 11:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Coach-Net has changed it's business practices for the worse

And to refresh a recent thread and complaint.. CN also is now charging $250/yr for the first year, and $150 after that; no negotiation. I have the emails $250 first year, then $150 every year after that?! Wow, what a rip-off. ...Makes me very glad I went with Good Sam ERS, that doesn't cost anywhere near that much and is just as good. Think I'll stick with it. :)
willald 07/21/17 09:03am Class A Motorhomes
RE: With Record Rv Sales 2 years in a row, we'll need more sites

Would like to see more Adult Only RV parks open up across the country, FHU, clean, quiet, nice bath/shower facilities and laundry. Keep it simple without the playgrounds, game rooms, etc. Would free up space in the Family parks and offer an alternative for retired adults who like to travel in the summer too. This kind of thinking is just.....Wrong, IMO. Once you start practicing exclusion and intolerance like this with RV parks...Next thing you know we'll have to have RV parks for all kinds of different people, preferences, styles....the list goes on an on. If we have parks just for older folks that exclude younger folks, then to be fair, we need to have some just for younger folks with families, too, and exclude the older folks. Oh, and we better have some where pets are allowed for those that have pets, and some where pets aren't allowed, for those intolerant folks that can't stand to be within 100 yards of anyone else's pets. Oh, and don't forget, we need parks for those that want campfires allowed, and separate parks where campfires are not allowed, for those intolerant folks that just want to sit inside and play bingo or whatever and pitch a fit if they smell any smoke. Ohhh, we better also have parks where cooking, eating outside is allowed, and some where that is not allowed, for those that don't want to smell burgers or steaks cooking outside, and just want to cook inside or go out to eat all the time. Oh, and don't forget exclusion by rig type, for those that don't want to see anything but expensive Class As, and separate parks for those that enjoy camping no matter what kind of rig it is (I know, we already have some of that, there are lots of Class A specific parks). Guess we also need parks strictly for full-timers, and separate ones for everyone else that actually camps, doesn't live in their RV. ....Continue down this path, and we'll have to have sooo many different RV parks, there won't be enough land for all of them, hahaha. Anyway, back to the original subject: Yes, I too have noticed that it is getting harder to get campsite reservations. We have always been the 'planning' type that always makes reservations long before we camp, but it seems we have to plan further and further ahead. Like already said, gone are the days of camping 'spur of the moment'. Case in point: We want to go to a certain very popular park in Florida next April. They allow an 11 month window for reservations. The 'window' opened at 8am Sunday morning several weeks ago, to reserve for the week we wanted. Literally, as the clock struck 8am that morning, 11 months prior to when we are going there, I hit the 'Reserve' button to reserve the site we wanted (yes, we got the site). By noon that day, after we got back from church, I looked again, and campground was already booked solid! Last time we went to same park back in March 2016, we didn't make the reservation until much later, like July 2016. That would NOT work now for that park.
willald 06/22/17 01:27pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Electric Vehicle Toad ???

Those are hybrids, not BEV. I wonder if the totally electric fusion can be towed "4 down". FYI... For those of you that think "Green": The Ford Fusion Energyi, and C-Max Energyi are both plug-in hybrids and can be towed 4 down. The EV range for the Fusion, depending on how you drive, is 12-19 miles. The 2018's are rated for 21 EV miles. The C-Max is about the same. In fact, almost ALL of Fords autos are towable 4 down. A complete charge for a dead battery on my Fusion Energyi takes about 4 hours on 120 volts at less than 20 amps. On a high speed, 240 volt charger, it takes 2 hours at about 16 amps. The Fusion and C-Max have a CVT transmission. For towing, you put the transmission in neutral, turn the car off and remove the key. Yep, the steering wheel does not lock down when you pull out the key. ...And furthermore, these hybrids, cannot be towed 4 down with the ignition 'ON', so you will not be recharging the batteries, nor getting any recharging from braking. You have to turn the ignition to ACC, which shuts off regenerative braking, and disconnects the large batteries, so no recharging going to them. Ford specifically instructs you to tow it this way, and I found out the hard way once with our Hybrid Fusion why, when accidentally left it 'ON' and started towing. That thing jerked and hopped around sooo bad, I quickly realized my mistake, stopped, and switched ignition to ACC, and it was fine. Never made that mistake again. :)
willald 06/15/17 07:21pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Leveling jacks question

Like others have suggested, I NEVER use auto mode. Jacks go absolutely nuts with the ups and downs in auto, and always ends up leaving the front end off the ground (something that like already said, you should never do). Manual is the only way to go, IMO. What I do is this: Before even turning on the jacks, I get out a level and see just how far off from level I am. If its significantly off in either direction, out come the blocks, and I drive whichever side of the MH up onto blocks that needs such to get it closer to level. Once I get close to level by driving MH onto blocks (or already am close without such), I get out the rest of my blocks, stack them under each jack, so that each jack has to extend out as little as possible. THEN, I turn on the control panel, put it in manual mode, extend the jacks, and finish off the leveling. This way, no tire ever leaves the ground, and jacks don't have to extend out as far. I've found that the less you extend the jacks, and the more you can do your leveling with blocks, the more solid, stable it will be inside. Much easier on your jacks, too. Only time I don't do all that, and just let the leveling jacks do all the work, is when I'm on a very level site (paved), and we're only staying for a night or two.
willald 06/15/17 06:56pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2013 Ford CMAX Sel towed 4 down accruing miles!

We've been towing a 2013 Ford Fusion Hybrid four down for 4 years now with no problems, and never any accrued mileage when towing. The Fusion Hybrids are very, very similar to the CMAX, they use pretty much the exact same (hybrid) drive train. I think the 'key' to it is (pun intended), like already said, you must tow with ignition in ACC position, not ON. If its in ON position, yes, you will accrue mileage (I know 'cause I accidentally did that once, haha). If you have the keyless ignition/push button start, its a whole different ballgame, and the procedure to get it in the right mode to tow is different, and that may be where something is not being done right, causing miles to accrue. Bottom line, though, is, that should not be happening.
willald 05/24/17 12:00pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Road Recommended by Good Sam and Completely Unpassable

I think this is a made-up story by someone who wants attention. ;) Yeah, brand new member, this is their one and only post....Call me just a bit skeptical of this story, too.... Will
willald 05/24/17 11:44am Good Sam Club
RE: class a motorhomes

willard very good info, just what i was looking for, just for giggles price of tires for each size? That, varies a LOT based on brand, profile, etc. No matter what numbers I throw out, somebody will disagree and say they can be had cheaper, so I'm almost afraid to answer that. I'll just say, that you can figure on 22" tires costing on average, around $100 more each, than comparable 19.5" tires would. my concern was like with travel trailers, 5th wheels they come with the cheapest tires on earth, was wondering if its the same with class A? No, that's one good thing about Motorhomes. You don't have to worry about the tires self-destructing like trailer tires are notorious for doing. Having owned RV trailers for years before this, I will say that is one very welcome change with the Motorhome, not having to worry about tires disintegrating anymore like trailer tires are known to do. As long as you take care of them, keep them inflated properly, don't overload them, etc....Motorhome tires are good for 6-7 years. As already said, these tires typically age out, they don't wear out. Now, when you DO have to replace Motorhome tires, whether its 19.5" tires or 22" tires....Be prepared to dig deep into the ol' bank account. You'll spend a good 2 or 3k on a set of (6) Motorhome tires. Will
willald 05/24/17 11:40am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Motorhome hitch receiver has play in it

Go to your local hardware store and buy a pack of plastic shims. The kind used to install doors and windows. Drive the narrow end into the receiver till tight. Break off remainder sticking out. Solid as a rock! I tried this, a few issues, for one unless taped, the shims will eventually work their way out, secondly, when they are jammed in there it's almost impossible to get the ball (or whatever you have installed for towing) out. Imagine jamming in wedges which also wedges whatever device you have in the receiver and now that the shims are broken how do you remove it? And left with broken shims, what do you do next time? New shims? Ahhh, you just confirmed what I suspected and mentioned in previous post, Effy. Don't think I gonna mess with shims, as we do have to take the tow bar out from time to time, to put a bike rack on back of the Motorhome to carry bikes instead of towing. The solution I proposed earlier works great and is so simple not to mention free if you have the tools. Simply drill and tap a 3/8 hole in the top of the receiver, screw in a bolt and snug up when you are towing, back off to remove. Easy cheesy and works like a charm. Took me a total of 5 mins and was free. Been using this method for 5 years. Never any movement, never any issues. And takes only a few seconds when hooking up. Nothing to remove or add. I like that idea, but my issue with it is, I worry about that weakening the hitch receiver and causing much bigger problems. Will
willald 05/24/17 08:32am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Motorhome hitch receiver has play in it

I've typically used hitch immobilizers like already mentioned (basically a square U bolt that clamps onto the tow bar, receiver). They've worked fine for me. However, the idea just mentioned about sliding shims in the receiver, sounds cool. Especially the idea of making the shims from empty oil jars (recycling, haha). I got to wonder, though: If you slide shims in like that and make it real tight...How hard is it going to be to get the tow bar out when you need to? Especially if you're broken off the shims so that they aren't going to be easy to pull out. You gonna have to replace the shims every time you have to take the tow bar out for anything? Granted, for most of us that wouldn't be very often..
willald 05/24/17 08:10am Class A Motorhomes
RE: class a motorhomes

Well, like already said, for 2011 or newer, your only choice for Chassis is Ford (F53), assuming you want gas. As to the question of smaller or larger tires: Yes, some larger Class A gassers have the big 22" tires, while some will have the smaller 19.5" tires. As to pros and cons: 22" tires will ride better, and be a little less 'squishy'. That, and they typically will have a little more weight allowance. However, the disadvantage to the larger tires is that they are a good bit more expensive when it comes time to replace them. Also, if you are one that choses to carry a spare tire and wants to be able to change it yourself...Unless you're in really good shape (body builder almost), this is MUCH more difficult, almost impossible, with 22" tires. Much, much easier to do with 19.5" tires. If you are one that maintains your tire pressures yourself, doing so with the 22" tires can be a bit more expensive, due to the fact they require more PSI, hence (possibly) a bigger air compressor. Anyway, hope this answers your question.
willald 05/24/17 07:59am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Couch out the door

We had our couch reupholstered about a year ago, and it came out the front door to go to the upholstery shop. Yes, had to be taken apart, then brought back in piece by piece and reassembled inside. Once disassembled, it came out the door easily. Only hard part was figuring out how it all went back together afterward. Came out great, though.
willald 04/15/17 07:30pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Not a good day Saturday

I think, there's just something about how RV trailer tires are treated, that makes them prone to an early demise. Doesn't matter if you pony up for LT tires or not - Sitting for long periods exposed to the elements, pushed to very edge of weight ratings, driven sometimes when not properly inflated, tight twisting when making turns.....These things take years of life away from a tire. Thats why sooo many recommend that trailer tires be replaced every 3 or 4 years, regardless. When we had an RV trailer, I always insisted on Maxxis (ST) tires only, and they got replaced every 4 years, no matter how good they looked. Never had a tire issue, in the 12 years we had various RV trailers. Still carry Good Sam ERS just in case, but have never had to use it with the RV.
willald 04/11/17 07:53am General RVing Issues
RE: Super Singles

This is nothing new and I am not sure why you think it is.. I'm not the one that said this was new, you did. You are the one that said, "Tell us what you think about your new singles after you pick up the first nail....". All I did was point out that super singles were nothing new to this particular poster, he has been using them for years. Thats all. He's heard all the reasons why some don't like them, and still choses to use them and is happy with them after using them for several years. I think thats great. If you don't like me or my posts, please feel free to block me so you don't have to ever deal with my responses in the future. I've been on these forums for 15 years, never felt the need yet to block anyone. Don't intend to start now. :) Will
willald 04/11/17 07:32am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Super Singles

Doing the math on my tires, I will actually save money buying singles. The 305/70/22.5 tires run over $700 each and the super single rear tire is about $850. Add in a rim and I'm still lower price than just buying duals. Tell us what you think about your new singles after you pick up the first nail in that tire and are crippled. ...If you'd read more before speaking, you'd see that Super Singles are hardly 'new' for this guy. He's been running them for several years and has been very happy with them. He's already heard from all the nay-sayers, and addressed all their old, tired points like this one very well. Personally, I respect TDINewGuy for bravely trying something new on an RV that nobody else seems to want to, and that it has worked out well for him. More power to him. :) FWIW, I looked into super singles once, as I was intrigued by the idea. Found that for my coach and its 19.5" tires, super singles are not a realistic option. They don't make a rim or super single tire that would fit with mine, at least not without some major modifications I don't want to do.
willald 04/10/17 11:59am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Steps not going down

SIMPLE test for power to Kwikee steps. Turn Chassis engine ON. Open and close the entry door. Watch the under step amber light. IF it goes on and OFF when opening and closing door the power to the step is correct. Then HIT the motor with a hammer(engine running) while opening and closing the door. IF the motor has a dead spot, it will eventually start to operate. If so, the motor is bad. Replace it. Doug Thank you Sir, This procedure worked on the third smack of the motor. Time to order a motor. I just replaced the motor in mine a few months ago. Mine quit after just 5 years use (2012 model - see signature). Smacking it didn't help, but since it wouldn't move at all, I immediately suspected the motor, so I disconnected it and verified via a continuity test, that the motor had shorted out internally and was dead. Soo, just ordered a new motor and put it in. Not a hard job, but definitely takes some patience, getting that motor positioned right, and getting all the bolts in place, with all the right spacers, etc. I'd plan on this taking you a good couple of hours, at least.
willald 04/06/17 09:26am Class A Motorhomes
RE: RV Financing / Zero Down Options?

Dont see any grumpy old men, just some snide comments Yep, snide comments, like telling how upside down someone will be if they don't finance a certain way, when nobody ever asked for that advice. Grit dog is right, and it is pretty funny that just as predicted very early on in this thread, almost immediately when this topic came up, we get unsolicited advice from the 'pay cash or do without' crowd. :) It never fails, hahaha. Will
willald 03/24/17 02:23pm General RVing Issues
RE: NC DMV safety inspection on class A DP

" It is more about money for the state. " Actually it is money for the service station guys. In 2009 there was proposed legislation to eliminate inspections in NC and the bill was killed by various trade organizations- The Independent Garage Owners of NC, The Automotive Service Association, and the Motor and Equipment Manufacturers Association, etc. Lobbyists all- That, really surprises me. Every shop I talk to about it (as well as friends I know that own service shops), every one of them HATES state inspections with a passion and wish they didn't have to do them. I know a few that quit doing inspections altogether because they are such a pain, and since the state mandates what they can charge for such, they make almost no money on them. Will
willald 03/21/17 01:58pm Class A Motorhomes
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