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 > Your search for posts made by 'willald' found 90 matches.

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RE: NC DMV Safety Inspection

Where ever you take it, call ahead first and make sure they are OK with doing the inspection for a Class A Motorhome like you have. I've found that many places refuse to do such for a Motorhome, because even though they only have to do a safety inspection (no emissions), state law still requires that they put it on a lift and inspect the undercarriage. Not many places have a lift capable of lifting these beasts. Some places will do the inspection for you anyway and don't lift it, and just risk getting caught, fined by the state. Others will not take that risk. Others just don't want to do it at all and will make other excuses, 'cause there's so little $$ in it. That's why, you need to call ahead and make sure before you waste a bunch of time and fuel.
willald 04/11/16 11:07am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2010 Discovery 40G, 25k miles, what is good price?

Update, and probably closure on this topic: ('cause I don't want to be one of those folks that starts a topic like this and never lets everyone know what happened) Talked to dealer just a little while ago. Deal fell through, not gonna happen. Could not agree on some things with the deal, mostly the financing terms various banks would offer. Even though we have a really, really good credit rating...With a unit this old there is no way to do the deal without putting down more cash up front than I'm willing to part with right now. Sooo, if anyone else is interested in this 2010 Discovery 40G, PM me and I'll give you the details of where it is. You won't find it on rvtrader or any other website, as they don't have it listed for sale yet, and probably won't list it anywhere. Sales reps are all confident it will sell just 'bout as fast as they put it on the sales floor. Like some have already said, these Discovery 40G units are very popular, and get snagged up very quickly. I just hate we ain't in a position to do the snagging right now. Maybe another time. Will
willald 03/02/16 01:08pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2010 Discovery 40G, 25k miles, what is good price?

Hmmm....constant radiator failure, DPF system that robs engine of its power and can result in major repair bill, slideouts cracking tile floor unless after-market enhancements done.... I starting to think, I better off sticking with our Georgetown gasser. Or at the very least, if we go this Discovery route, I better make the dealer throw in a really good extended service contract that will cover some of these things! I am supposed to go look at it in much more detail Thursday, possibly, if numbers work out that dealer is crunching right now with the bank. Very glad to have the information noted here to keep in mind when looking it over and negotiating the deal. Thank you, to everyone who relayed their experience with this coach. :)
willald 03/01/16 03:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2010 Discovery 40G, 25k miles, what is good price?

engine check a must or its a deal breaker, insist on your choice of tires , start at $110k out the door. Hello, been a while since I posted but thought I'd chime in. :-) I own this exact year and model - we love ours! I thought I'd offer insight on on a few things we had to deal with. *We have barely 20k on ours. For one - YOU NEED TO FIND OUT when the DPF was serviced, filter changed, or anything replaced concerning the DPF. This motor is notorious for blowing a DPF, as most owners don't realize letting this motor idle for any period of time will clog the DPF (use high idle when not moving and motor running). Repair for us @ 14k miles was over $6k.... We purchased ours used with 12k miles. The motor is horribly underpowered (we live in WA *lots of hills), but the secondary market has options - if you find the right guy. Next time the DPF needs serviced, we'll probably get creative to "free up the motor". ;-) The full wall slide WILL crack the tile. The previous owner had this happen and their dealer came up with some thin (1/2 inch) rubber strips that is used under the slide rollers when contracted - make sure to implement if you buy the coach. Finally - Midnightsadie is dreaming. I suppose you can start at $110k, but this coach is still in demand as the bunk model is very popular. We bought during a down time in the market and still paid $150k. There may be 4 or 5 used ones for sale in the country, and I still think they're bringing the same money we paid or close. I'm curious to see what your dealer will ask. Tires are expensive, so that could be 3k to the price. The Spartan Chassis is night and day better than Freightliner - IMO... :-) ****Just noticed they're asking $140k - fair... Thank you, jdub! This is exactly the kind of information I was hoping to get. :) Yes, I thought the same thing when I saw midnightsadie's post - Nobody is going to sell a 2010 Discovery 40G for $110k, and if they do, you better RUN from it, 'cause there is something bad wrong with it, haha. Excellent points, about the DPF and full wall slide issue. Will definitely check into that. I did not realize that year had the DPF. Not surprised to hear that you feel it is underpowered. I was 'fraid of that, too, but will reserve judgement until I can test drive it. Please keep the comments coming, and thanks in advance for them. :) Will
willald 03/01/16 11:01am Class A Motorhomes
2010 Discovery 40G, 25k miles, what is good price?

We are once again toying with the idea of trading up to this model. Dealer just got this unit in on a trade (has not even been put up for sale yet). They called us few days ago 'cause they knew we had been looking for this specific model, told us they had just got this one in. we looked at it the other day (could not test drive yet), it looks really good, previous owner seems to have really taken good care of it. No hints of leaks or delamination anywhere, slideout seals all look good, interior all looks good (just needs a little cleaning here and there). Almost looks like it could be put on the showroom floor as new. They are right now putting a fresh set of tires on it and cleaning it up. New tires are included in the deal (without even asking). They are asking right at $140k for it. Seems pretty much in line with what I'm seeing on RVtrader for similar units, but book value shows significantly less for average retail value. If we decide to move forward with this, plan to have a mobile RV technician we've known and worked with for years come out and help us check it out, make sure we don't miss anything that may be wrong. Also thinking about seeing if dealer will let us take it to a nearby Cummins dealer and have them check out the engine, chassis. The fact that its 6 years old and there will be probably no warranty, has me a little nervous, as I know almost nothing about diesel engines, air systems, etc. There are sooo many parts, systems with this unit that I know very little about. Now, for the questions: 1. It has the 350 hp, 750 torque Cummins 6.7L engine. Will know more once I test drive it, but this seems like would be very underpowered, for a coach this size, wouldn't it? 2. Does their price sound fair, all things considered? 3. I've heard about quality issues Fleetwood had back about the time this one was built, 2010. Any specific issues anyone heard of or know of, that I should look closely for? Should I not even consider a Fleetwood of this age? Thanks in advance, as always, for any and all input on this. :)
willald 03/01/16 08:27am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Towing a minivan on a dolly

We towed a Kia minivan on a tow dolly for a while. One of the big problems you have with towing a minivan on a dolly, has to do with weight limitations. Minivans are heavy, many weigh well over 4,000 lbs, some close to 5,000. There's only a handful of tow dollies made that are rated to handle that much weight. Also, many Motorhomes, the weight limit on the hitch receiver is 5,000 lbs. Add the weight of a tow dolly to a minivan that in some cases is getting close to 5,000 lbs by itself, and you frequently will find yourself over that 5,000 lb limitation of the MH's hitch receiver. Also, as already noted, width and fender clearance can be an issue. I agree with a previous post - The Acme EZE tow dolly is probably one of the best choices if you are going to tow a minivan on a dolly. Thats what we used, and it worked great. It is one of the few dollies out there that is rated to handle 5,000 lbs, yet only weighs about 400 lbs. That, and the way its designed, pretty well eliminates issues with fender clearance, taking sharp turns, etc.
willald 02/08/16 02:39pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tire Installer in Charlotte NC?

Try Clark tire just west of Charlotte in Gastonia, nc. They handle large truck tires, should be able to take care of it for you. Good guys to work with there.
willald 02/02/16 06:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: SMI Air Force One Brake system?? or other brake systems?

...For a system that can be easily used on two different vehicles, that will be much, much more budget friendly than any of the systems already mentioned, look no further than the Readybrake. Just can't beat it, IMO - Simple (one time) installation in towed vehicle of nothing more than a cable from brake pedal up to front bumper, only costs $60 more for same cable to install on a second vehicle, so you can tow either vehicle and use the Readybrake system. Simple, no-nonsense, no electronics cable operated system that simply works. Costs SIGNIFICANTLY less than the other systems mentioned, will work on almost any vehicle including hybrids (unlike M&G). And, almost all parts to it that could wear out eventually, could be found at any hardware store for less than $20 (and easily installed by the owner, no need for expensive labor). No need to wait weeks for the company to send you replacement parts like is the case for most any other brake system. Now, it doesn't give braking quite as smooth and truly proportional as an air operated system like AF1 or M&G that works directly off of the MH's air brake system. If you have a MH equipped with full air brakes, M&G or AF1 is probably the best option (although much more expensive than something like Readybrake). However, if you have a gas coach or one that doesnt have full air brakes, then the Readybrake makes a lot more sense, IMO.
willald 01/12/16 02:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Trading in the DP for a Gas....uh oh

..Actually, compared to your older DP you have now, the new one you're looking at with a gasser V10 will probably feel like a drag racer, hahahaha! Seriously, a gasser engine like the V10 has much better 'throttle response' than a diesel. Especially compared to an older diesel like you have. You step on the accelerator, the V10 will respond appropriately and get moving. A diesel will just grunt and lug. Since it can't drop down a gear and turn higher RPMs like a gasser can, it can't give you the quicker acceleration a gasser can. In terms of acceleration from a dead stop and immediate throttle response, even in a big 40' unit like that, the gasser will feel much quicker. Especially when compared to an older diesel like yours. Now, like already said, once you get in the moutains and go up a long, steep grade, it will probably be a different story. That is where the diesel shines. If everything else about the unit you're looking at checks out (quality, floorplan, etc), I would not let the concern over the engine type, drivetrain concern you. You will be happy with it.
willald 01/04/16 06:44am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Lincoln mkx 2016

FWIW, Ford's hybrid vehicles, the Ford Fusion Hybrid and C-max hybrid are fully flat towable from the factory, and have a rock solid, proven, reliable track record for such. People have been towing them for years without a problem. I also believe that is the case for the Lincoln MKZ hybrid. Sooo, not really accurate to say that Ford doesn't have a flat towable model anymore. They most certainly do, with their hybrid vehicles.
willald 12/30/15 08:29am Dinghy Towing
RE: 2004 F53 6.8L V-10 Catalytic Converter Replacement

Not that I'm condoning not replacing the catalytic converter, just pointing out that from a legality standpoint, original poster may well not have anything to worry about. Will If you wanted to point out the legality, you would have said it's a Federal offense to remove a catalytic converter. Doesn't matter what happens in any city, county, or state. Agreed, but he didn't remove it, a thief did. :) I bet its illegal to remove and steal a catalytic converter, too. :) Will
willald 12/29/15 04:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2004 F53 6.8L V-10 Catalytic Converter Replacement

Is the part necessary? most states require annual emmission testing on vehicles ..But not on a vehicle built on a truck chassis like this, with a GVWR well over 10,000 lbs. Not that I'm condoning not replacing the catalytic converter, just pointing out that from a legality standpoint, original poster may well not have anything to worry about. Will
willald 12/29/15 11:28am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A Gas or Diesel

Heres one thing I have noticed over my entire lifetime.When a person simply can not afford a certain product and has to settle for a lessor they simply hate the one they cant afford and will find umpteen reasons they would never buy such a item. Very true, Don, I've seen same thing many times. Tis human nature, I suppose, the ol' fox and sour grapes thing. HOWEVER, my previous post relating my experience, opinion on a diesel pusher, is NOT AT ALL related to what I can or can't afford. The unit I was looking at was within our reach financially. $$ didn't really enter into it much this time. The extreme sluggish feel and lack of throttle response when hitting the accelerator, did. :) Also, the flip-side to your point is also true, Don: Those that spend significantly more $$ on one choise over another, will religiously defend their choice to the very end, swear its the best thing since sliced bread, to justify in their own head why they chose to spend so much more $$. Not ALWAYS the case, but again, it is human nature. Will on the flip side of the flip side.You may beat my 450ISL off the line but going up a long 5-6% grade I will leave u in the dust ..Possibly, but all depends on a lot of factors. Not the least of which is, who is loading down the heaviest, and just how hard each of us is willing to push it. When my V10 drops down several gears and starts 'roaring' at 'bout 6,000 RPMs....It can pull us up long, steep grades every bit as fast as I want it to. :) but mine is not sluggish off the line? not sure what your test drive one was up to I wondered same thing, if one I was driving may have had something wrong with it. But, I kept thinking, surely a brand new Cummins ISL 380 HP/1150 torque diesel shouldn't already have something wrong with it, robbing it of any horsepower?? I'd hope not! I just kept thinking, man, with 380 horsepower, thats all the umph its got?! Good gracious, this sluggishness would drive me insane, haha. :) Will
willald 12/23/15 12:38pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A Gas or Diesel

Wow.....this thread is really all over the place. "donfrump" brings up a good point about people making disparaging remarks about something they can't afford. This really makes their opinion useless because it's so slanted. Agreed, but as I just noted to Don, what I described was not 'slanted' really at all, 'cause I was able to afford the diesel pusher we were looking at. This was a 2015 unit that was just about to turn a year old, had been a demo unit, so they just knocked over $100k off the price. It was within our reach, financially, but it ain't in our driveway, 'cause I don't like that lack of throttle response. :) Large displacement diesels in motor homes and semi's are not designed to have the "pedal put to the floor". When you do that with a diesel, it will fall on it's face. Yep, indeed they will, which is why I prefer my V10 gasser, and the 'roar' and immediate throttle response I get when I put the pedal down on it. I like knowing that the engine can do that, and can get the unit moving quickly, if I need it to. Really exasperating to me to push down on the pedal and nothing really happens but a lot of grunting. I realize, these are massive RVs and not meant to be drag racers. However, I still prefer an engine with some throttle response that can get things moving quickly if the need arises (like, merging onto a freeway, getting out of someone's way that isn't paying attention, etc). They're designed to have the power rolled on. If you roll it on slowly, it will accelerate like other motor homes. Right, because diesel burns slower than gas, and as a result, a diesel engine will struggle to accelerate as quickly as a gasser can. A gasser can drop down a gear, briefly turn 5000 RPMs and really get you accelerating quickly. That is something a diesel will never be able to do. It can't downshift, all it can do is grunt and grind along in high gear, low RPMs. Results in better mileage and longer life, possibly, but takes away ability to accelerate quickly like a gasser can. If you drive down a smooth highway at 65 mph, both a gas motor home and a diesel will ride smoothly. If the road is full of potholes, both a gasser and a diesel will ride roughly. The diesel may absorb the shock a little better because of the size and weight, but you'll still feel it. I had a gas motor home with the 8.1 Workhorse and it was a diesel eater. I could blow by most diesels on any grade. Now, the noise was horrendous in the cab, even after adding a lot of installation, but you only climb grades during about 5% of your travels, so not a big deal. A diesel is more complicated to operate and maintain, but can haul and tow more weight. You need to decide what you want to do your coach, how often you'll use it and do you have a need for a diesel. Modern day gassers are very capable and probably the best choice for those who don't do more than 8-10K in miles every year. My sister just took delivery of a new Fleetwood Southwind today. They were done dealing with the complexity of a diesel pusher. It's actually 4" longer than the diesel they sold and is just as nicely outfitted. Good luck on your search. The lines between a diesel and a gasser have really been blurred so it's a tough choice. ..With all that, I agree. Especially how the lines between the two have really blurred and made the choice tougher. :) Will
willald 12/23/15 12:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A Gas or Diesel

Heres one thing I have noticed over my entire lifetime.When a person simply can not afford a certain product and has to settle for a lessor they simply hate the one they cant afford and will find umpteen reasons they would never buy such a item. Very true, Don, I've seen same thing many times. Tis human nature, I suppose, the ol' fox and sour grapes thing. HOWEVER, my previous post relating my experience, opinion on a diesel pusher, is NOT AT ALL related to what I can or can't afford. The unit I was looking at was within our reach financially. $$ didn't really enter into it much this time. The extreme sluggish feel and lack of throttle response when hitting the accelerator, did. :) Also, the flip-side to your point is also true, Don: Those that spend significantly more $$ on one choise over another, will religiously defend their choice to the very end, swear its the best thing since sliced bread, to justify in their own head why they chose to spend so much more $$. Not ALWAYS the case, but again, it is human nature. Will
willald 12/23/15 11:42am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A Gas or Diesel

The Ford V10, especially the newer ones with 3 valve per cylinder heads (anything after 2006), has PLENTY of power and will work fine. 362 horsepower and 457 foot-pounds of torque is plenty, and will do what you ask it to do. Will get a little loud when you work it hard, and it will turn a lot of RPMs, but that is exactly what Ford designed it to do, and it will do it just fine. Very strong motor. We have a 36' MH on a Ford V10 chassis, have had it for 3 years (bought it new in 2012 - see signature). We travel pretty much everywhere we want with it, including mountains. It does whatever we ask of it. I recently (2 weeks ago) took a new diesel pusher for a test drive, as we were toying with the idea of upgrading. It was a 2015 40' Fleetwood Discovery, with the Cummins ISL 380 horsepower, 1150 ft-lb torque diesel. I am here to tell you, I am simply NOT impressed with the diesel at all. A couple times, just to get a feel for it, I put the pedal to the floor just to see if all this hype I've heard about diesel power was true. I was sorely disappointed. You step on a gas engine like a V10, it responds appropriately - it gets loud, and gets MOVING. You step on the diesel, it does almost nothing - it just grunts, lurks, and sloooooowly accelerates. Won't downshift and get moving like a gasser V10 will. No throttle response whatsoever, at least not like what I'm used to (and prefer) with gassers. And, this was with a brand spanking new very powerful diesel, a Cummins ISL 380 horsepower. Many diesel pushers have considerably less power than that, especially older ones. Yes, the diesel pusher rides much smoother, handles better with the air suspension, and is much quieter with the engine in the back. But, the huuuuuge price tag that comes with, coupled with how much more complicated it is with all the air systems, then add to that the horrible (non-existent) throttle response of the diesel......Sorry, I'll keep my gasser V10 MH, and its much smaller bank note, and much better throttle response. :) They say once you drive a diesel, you'll never go back, and not to test drive a diesel pusher with your checkbook in your pocket, as you'll buy it on the spot. Well, I'm here to tell you, neither are necessarily true. Some of us, even after having tried both, prefer our gasser V10 rigs. :)
willald 12/23/15 07:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: MagneShade Owners

Agree with previous posters - if you encounter a wind strong enough to pull a magneshade off, you have much, much more serious issues to worry about. Due to the way Magneshade is designed (mesh material, VERY strong magnets holding it at several places onto windshield), it is very, very difficult for wind to ever pull one off. We bought a Magneshade for our MH as soon as we got the MH home, back in 2012. Been 3 years now, and its always worked great. Wind has never even budged it, and we camp frequently at the beach where there are some pretty strong winds. You really can't beat it - Goes on and off very easily and quickly without having to climb up on anything, no ugly snaps to deal with, completely transparent from inside, yet very effective at blocking sun light and heat. I wouldn't want to camp with a MH in a lot of sunlight without one. As for the theft risk: You leave a magneshade on a MH when its parked in storage, you kinda are asking for it, not much mercy for anyone that does that. Ours stays folded up in a storage bin when we're not camping. The magneshade only comes out and goes on when we're camping. Never had or heard of a theft of these happening, when a MH is at a campground, camping.
willald 12/22/15 11:36am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Leaking inner dual tire, need help finding leak

This post is few months LATE on this thread. But interesting reading because recently I had to deal with an elusive leak from one of my tires... ... ...Or so I thought. Found myself blaming the tire, & then blaming a defective(?) Borg Valve Stem, & then seriously hating on the tire repair shop for not trying hard enough to find the problem. Turned out to be the damaged WHEEL that was the culprit. A tiny break in the weld seam caused by TOO MANY BAD POTHOLES along a certain stretch of interstate road in a certain other state. (Oh yeah. I remembered it well). Just another case of my tax dollars NOT working hard enough – soon enough! In my case, the cost of a new wheel was actually less than paying for a new tire. And btw IF it’s not too late, & you’re still bent on getting more service from that tire they say is un-repairable... ... ... Go "the old school route" & put an inner tube inside, & keep it rolling as a spare! Wow, yes, a bit late on this one. :) New tire last March fixed this problem (although was a very expensive fix!) Have watched the tire pressures very closely all year, leaking stopped after replacing the tire. I kept the old tire for several weeks, hoping to find someone that would repair it so I could keep it as a spare. Took it to at least a half dozen different tire places, asking if they would repair it. All said same thing - no way, cut is too close to the sidewall. Sooo, eventually disposed of it, its long gone now. Hadn't thought about putting an innner tube inside it so it could be used as a spare. Its all 'water under the bridge' now, but can you even get an inner tube that would fit, work for this size tire? I wouldnt think you could, given that they havent used inner tubes on this kind of tire in the last what, 30 years or so?
willald 12/22/15 09:40am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Question for thos using Ready Brake

..I use a ReadyBrake Elite tow bar with the integrated braking system as well. Have used it on two different toads, it has worked great on both of them. Yes, the way NSA has you install it, wiring the dashboard light to work of the ReadyBrake actuator....Well, is not very useful. You really, really need it to tell you when the toad brakes are engaging, not when the readybrake actuator moves. Sooo, I too, wired the dash light to the toad's brake light. Is very, very handy, to know precisely when you toad brakes engage and when they disengage. I would not want to tow a vehicle without such. You really need an indicator like this, regardless what type of brake system you are using. NSA used to instruct you to wire up their dash light that way, to the toad brake lights. However, they changed that to the way it is now some time ago. As I understand it, it was changed because so many toads require you to pull fuses or disconnect the battery, which in many cases would make it difficult to wire the dash indicator to work off of toad brake lights.
willald 11/26/15 08:54pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Lube pumps for towing

..Regardless what you decide, there are a few important things to consider, when reading all the posts from people that claim to have seen 'failures' of lube pumps, and won't use one as a result: Yes, a lube pump is one more thing that can go wrong. HOWEVER, contrary to what you read from some folks, 99% of the time when/if a Remco lube pump fails, you are NOT going to fry a transmission, as long as everything was initially installed correctly. Worst case, you might be 'inconvenienced' for a while (have to drive toad separately) until issue is resolved, but that is about it. It is a 'myth' some folks have started, that a Remco pump failure will fry a transmission. Does not really happen anymore, with the new design Remco uses. That 'myth' probably started several years ago back when that was indeed a risk. Its not so much anymore, with the monitor panel/box Remco uses. Remco provides a monitor/control box for the pump that mounts to dash of your Motorhome. It connects to the lube pump, and to a pressure sensor on output side of the lube pump. If pressure drops, or pump stops (or is not) running, you get a loud beeping and red light coming on to let you know something is wrong. As long as you pull over within a few miles and quit towing until the issue is resolved, you are NOT going to hurt your transmission. Regardless what all the doom-preachers say, haha. :) Also, something else nobody really talks about, when it comes to a Remco transmission pump: They (Remco) are confident enough in their product, that THEY provide a warranty for your transmission, that will cover the cost of repair/replacement to such for 40,000 miles from the time you install a Remco pump on it. Soo, there is at least some security there, that you will be covered in the case of a total (and highly unlikely) disaster. To answer your other specific questions: No, Remco pump will NOT necessarily work for any/all automatic transmission vehicles. You'll have to go to their web page and look your specific vehicle up on their web site to see if they have a model that will work for the vehicle you have or are considering. As to warranty being voided: As I already said, Remco provides their own warranty for their product, and your transmission. However, if you do have a transmission failure, there is the chance that the vehicle manufacturer will use the lube pump as an excuse to refuse to cover the transmission repair. However, I seriously, seriously doubt, all things considered, if this has EVER happened. We used a Remco lube pump for a while, on a Kia minivan we used to tow. It worked fine for the most part, once we straightened out some mistakes made with installation (dealer that did installation got to take care of those). Ultimately we quit towing that vehicle 'cause we got one that was easier and simpler to tow, a Ford Fusion Hybrid. However, I'd have no problem going with a lube pump again, if we ever wanted to flat tow a vehicle that could not be towed any other way.
willald 11/23/15 12:26pm Dinghy Towing
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