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 > Your search for posts made by 'willald' found 315 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Whats the best car to tow ??

observations going down the road...i think you'll count more Jeep Wranglers being towed behind an RV than any other single make or model. Im unaware of any other automotive brand manufacture that makes an optional wiring harness made specifically to enable folks to tow their brand/model behind an RV or other vehicle. Indeed, Jeeps are very easy and simple when it comes to flat towing. However, they do not fit the bill for many folks, for various reasons. Especially for those for which the 'toad' has to also serve as an everyday driving vehicle when not camping/RVing. Jeeps are awesome for going offroad, but that offroad prowess comes at a price in terms of road manners, comfort. I know they've got much better in recent years, but overall, Jeeps can be a VERY uncomfortable ride on pavement, and due to their design they can also be extremely lacking in various 'creature comforts' many other vehicles have (yes, I have driven and rode in several of them). For that reason, many folks want nothing to do with them, for the vehicle they have to drive everyday. Guess just goes back to the fact that there is no such thing as a 'best' car to tow, 'cause everyone's wants, needs, likes, dislikes, etc. are going to be very different. Whats best for one person will be horrible for another. Will
willald 07/22/14 08:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Whats the best car to tow ??

The one you pick because you might not like my Prius and I'm keeping it so I will be mad if you tow it. ..I think this answer pretty much sums it all up, nothing else really has to be said.
willald 07/22/14 05:39am Class A Motorhomes
RE: V-10

Indeed, 2006 was the first year that the MH chassis got the new cylinder heads that boosted horsepower and torque. As one thats owned both an older V10 and now one with the newer V10, I will say that the difference in power is very noticeable, too. Ford actually came out with the more powerful V10 in 2005. Their F250 and F350 pickup trucks got the more powerful V10 starting with 2005 models. The new V10 didn't make its way into the F53 MH chassis until a year later, in 2006.
willald 07/21/14 07:38am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Diesel Pusher with Bunks?

The coolest one is the Newmar Allstar Bunkhouse model. It has a lower bedroom and an upper bedroom at the back of the coach. This can be done because it is a mid-engined diesel. Agreed, I have always liked that Allstar 3950 model. It is the only model I've seen that *might* could convince me to go to a diesel. 'Tis a crying shame that so few of them were built. However, DW does not share my enthusiasm over that model. She wants nothing to do with it, and cringes at the idea of ever having to climb up in that loft area (to pack, get kids clothes, etc. from up there, not to sleep, hahaha). Will
willald 07/18/14 09:42am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Diesel Pusher with Bunks?

I'm with YC1 also, especially if the kids are older. The bunks are "right there" outside the bedroom, next to the bathroom. Severely limits privacy in what I think of as "Mom and Dad's area". Yes, that is an issue, and is part of the reason why we stayed with a towable RV for several years before going to a MH - Can't beat the privacy a towable RV gives, with kid's bunkhouse one one end of the RV, and adult's bedroom on the other. If that privacy is a big issue, IMO one may be better off in a towable RV that allows more of that privacy. For us, we addressed that 'privacy' issue by installing a lock on the door going to our bedroom in the back. Between that, and turning on either the TV or AC fan in the back for 'white noise' to cover up 'other' noises....Privacy is not an issue for us. ;) Our kids r older, only one camps with us regularly. Our coach has 2 jack knife sofa's that convert to beds in seconds, and Jr. has to fold and stow his bedding and flip his bed closed immediately on waking up. There again, though, having them make up the beds as soon as they get up in the morning does not solve the problem in the evening - You lose your living, sitting area when they go to bed. That may well not be an issue for some, but for those of us that like to have some time of 'peace and quiet' after kids go to bed and before adults do....Well, the bunks are a requirement in that case. Will
willald 07/17/14 07:40am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Diesel Pusher with Bunks?

OK, here is you "other suggestion". If the kids are in their teens they may travel less often with you now. An rv can be a long term purchase so think to the future use a bit. If the kids are big enough to make their own beds then set some rules for them. They make it down and when you get up they do too. Our grandson lives with us full timers and he gets the bed made often before I am up. The precious space bunks would take up is better used for our purposes. Problem with that approach (using couch, dinette for kids to sleep) is that it means when they go to bed, you lose your living, sitting area, and just about have to go to bed same time the kids (or grandkids) do. While that may work for some, for many folks (including us) it will not. Nope, bunks are the only way for us. Kids really need to have their own 'space' that bunks provide. As for long term use, after kids grow up and don't go as much: Not a problem, it is very easy to convert bunks into storage space for other purposes when that time comes. Now, to addres the specific question of the original poster: When we were looking for bunk models, we found that manufacturers didn't really start making class A units with bunks, until long about 2007 or 2008. When we were looking ('bout 2 years ago), a DP from those years or newer were just not in our budget, all we looked at were right at or over $100k. I know they've depreciated some since then, but I still think it may be tough to find a DP with bunks (2007 or newer) in the 50-60k price range you mentioned.
willald 07/16/14 01:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: need help with purchase of new bunkhouse

I haven't looked at the two units in detail, but must say, that is an EXCELLENT review of them that Effy just provided! Lots of great info and good points to think about there. If it wasnt for the full wall Scwintek slideout, my vote based on that review would definitely be for the Thor Miramar. However, given some of the horrendous issues they have had with that slideout mechanism on larger slideouts.....I would be very, very nervous about buying a unit with such. At the very least, only way I'd buy that Miramar is if they threw in as part of the deal, a really, really good extended service contract that would cover EVERY aspect of that slideout!
willald 07/16/14 08:18am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tow dolly - not that bad after all

I would dread the day I would have to hook up in a total down poor. Agreed, but hooking up in a down pour would be no fun regardless whether you were towing 4 down or with a dolly. Of all the reasons we chose to go to four down towing, the threat/risk of having to hook up in the rain really wasn't one of them. Will
willald 07/14/14 11:42am Dinghy Towing
RE: Tow dolly - not that bad after all

I have towed four down with different cars for many years now. I traded the latest toad recently just before a trip and was faced with having to decide what to do. I had never used a tow dolly and the thread here and elsewhere gave me pause about doing it. But, I no longer had a four down towable and we were planning a big trip for the summer this year. So, went out and bought a used Acme Eze tow. I turned out to be one of those what is all the fuss about experiences. I towed my car over 6000 miles behind the Class C. Put it on and took it off as needed. It was EZ! The first couple times I had the straps coming loose - meaning there was a slight gap between the wheels and the stop after driving for a while, but then I bought a bigger wrench and cinched them a couple more clicks and no more issues. It took only a couple more minutes to connect the straps than wrestling with my Blue Ox and brakes did, so that was a wash. I did totally wear out a set of tires on the dolly though, thanks to the crappy roads in this country. I guess if I had the choice I would go four down, but overall the dolly experience was not a big deal and certainly not as bad as the four down fans might have us think. ..As one that dolly towed with the same dolly you have (Acme EZE), and now tows 4 down (and have for some time), I actually agree with you. Four down is definitely my first choice, but if circumstances changes and we were to go back to dolly towing, I'd be OK with it. However, it would only be with an Acme EZE tow dolly. The EZE dolly really does eliminate some of the disadvantages about dolly towing.
willald 07/14/14 09:51am Dinghy Towing
RE: Help choosing towing system Sunseeker Class C

with that logic I can only assume that it is not a good idea to over engineer something? No, over-engineering definitely has its merits. However, in this case, when that 'over-engineering' means spending $1k more to get a tow bar with 10k capacity vs 8k, when you have a much 'weaker link' in the chain limited to 5k (hitch receiver)....No, sorry, I'm not sure I'd call that over-engineering a good idea. Thats just MHO, though. (...And, thats without even getting into how much better and easier to use a brake system the Readybrake would be over an 'electronics box' type system like the Patriot.) But, its the Original poster's decision, not ours. I just thought that since the initial post initially asked for ways to do this without spending as much $$, that saving a bunch by going with an integrated tow bar and brake system that'd cost $1k or more less, would be a good idea.
willald 07/14/14 07:39am Dinghy Towing
RE: Help choosing towing system Sunseeker Class C

Not that it will change your mind reinita, but your Sunseeker's hitch is only rated to 5000 lbs. While there isn't anything wrong with over engineering on the tow bar, don't overlook how much your RV can tow. Thats a really good point, and yet another reason why the Blue Ox tow bar's 10k capacity vs 8k of the Readybrake really is insignificant; You'll exceed the hitch receiver's limit looong before you come close to the 8k limit of the Readybrake towbar. Will
willald 07/12/14 08:59pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Help choosing towing system Sunseeker Class C

Hmmm. It looks like the Blue Ox has a 10k towing capacity vs. the Readybrakes's 8k. We need the extr wiggle room because we plan to put a canoe and bikes on the Jeep. But thanks again for the suggestion. LOL, you could put 20 canoes and bikes on that Jeep, and still come nowhere near 8,000 lbs. :) But, whatever floats your boat. Will
willald 07/12/14 08:09pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Help choosing towing system Sunseeker Class C

Here's where I am (all new, free shipping): Blue Ox Aventa LX BX7445 class IV tow bar, $612 Blue Ox Aventa LX BX88231 towing accessory kit, $250 Blue Ox BX88285 EZ light wiring harness kit for my Jeep (2012 Wrangler Rubicon), $147 Blue Ox BX1126 baseplate, $362. Currently pricing out brakes, but looking at the Blue Ox BRK 2012 Patriot, $1,000. Am I missing anything important? Yes, swap the blue ox tow bar, accessory kit, and patriot braking system for the Readybrake integrated tow bar and brake system I mentioned previously, and you'll be good. And, that approach will save you nearly $1000 since you won't have to buy a separate braking system. Not to mention you'll have a much better, simpler, easier to use braking system. Other than that, your list looks good. :) does the readybrake have a break away function? bumpy Yep, has a very good break-away unit, called their 'Readystop' unit (I noted it in my previous post as well). Yes, it costs a few more $$, but even with that, it still is much, much less $$ ('bout $1k less overall) than what you'd pay buying a separate tow bar and brake system. Will
willald 07/12/14 04:42pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Help choosing towing system Sunseeker Class C

Here's where I am (all new, free shipping): Blue Ox Aventa LX BX7445 class IV tow bar, $612 Blue Ox Aventa LX BX88231 towing accessory kit, $250 Blue Ox BX88285 EZ light wiring harness kit for my Jeep (2012 Wrangler Rubicon), $147 Blue Ox BX1126 baseplate, $362. Currently pricing out brakes, but looking at the Blue Ox BRK 2012 Patriot, $1,000. Am I missing anything important? Yes, swap the blue ox tow bar, accessory kit, and patriot braking system for the Readybrake integrated tow bar and brake system I mentioned previously, and you'll be good. And, that approach will save you nearly $1000 since you won't havve to buy a separate braking system. Not to mention you'll have a much better, simpler, easier to use braking system. Other than that, your list looks good. :)
willald 07/12/14 06:53am Dinghy Towing
RE: Help choosing towing system Sunseeker Class C

For everything noted that they are installing, $3700 isnt too awful bad. However, there are a few things you can do different, that will drop that cost drastically. Without necessarily having to look for used equipment on Craigs list (although that works, too). First off, forget the Falcon tow bar and Invisibrake system they suggested. Order Readybrake's Readybrute Elite tow bar with integrated/included braking system from hitchsource with free shipping for $1175. That alone will save you well over $1000 from what CW was going to charge you, since you don't have to buy a separate braking system. Other things you'll need is the base plates for another aprx. $440 (you can get that from hitchsource with free shipping, too), Readybrake's Readystop break-away unit for another $100 or so, and a taillight wiring kit for maybe another $70. Then, of course, installation for all this if you don't want to install it yourself. I'm betting, you can order all I mentioned, and get it installed, for MUCH less than $3700. I'm going to guess somewhere around 2000 or 2500. Thats what I'd recommend.
willald 07/11/14 10:08am Dinghy Towing
RE: 2014 Ford Fusion Hybrid

When towing a ford fusion hybrid, do the regenerative brakes charge the batteries when your aux braking system activates? Or does it have also have a conventional braking system with brake shoes and such. No, and yes. When towing a Ford hybrid, Ford instructs you to leave ignition switch in ACC position, which means the drivetrain and regenerative braking is off. Sooo, no, the high voltage batteries do not get charged when your aux. braking system activates. The Fusion hybrid does have a conventional braking system as well (4 wheel disc, ABS). This is what is used when your supplemental braking system pushes on the pedal. The way the braking system works on the Fusion hybrids, is that it has both regenerative braking as well as conventional braking. Regenerative braking is only turned on, used, when driving the vehicle (not towing). Depending on how hard you brake, regenerative braking is used first, with conventional braking kicking in only if you push harder on the brake pedal and need to stop quicker. Every time you stop, once you come to a complete stop, it shows you a 'score' of how much of your braking was done with regenerative braking. If you can anticipate your stops and brake gently more often, you use more regenerative braking that provides charge to the batteries, meaning you can run in EV mode more and get better mileage. Gentle braking definitely helps your mileage with a hybrid. If you frequently wait 'til the last minute to start braking, you will not see as good mileage with a hybrid. This also means that the conventional brake parts (pads, rotors, etc) on a Fusion hybrid last almost forever, because they are used much, much less than they would be on a conventional vehicle. Anyway, hope this answers your question about how the brakes work on a Fusion hybrid. We've had ours for over a year now, and absolutely love everything about this vehicle. As already said, its soooo easy to tow, IMO the easiest and most simple auto tranny vehicle there is for flat towing. Mileage is absolutely amazing, and its just really cool having a vehicle that can run silent, without burning any fuel for a lot of the time. Kinda like having a large, fast, very comfortable golf cart in campgrounds, haha. Only downside you may not like: Check the trunk in the back. Due to the batteries it has, there is not quite as much trunk space as some other vehicles. Not an issue for us, but may be for some. For us, it 'discourages' DW from shopping and buying as much stuff, since not as much room to put it, hahahaha. :B
willald 07/09/14 08:03am Dinghy Towing
RE: jack pads for motorhome

I carry several pieces of 2x12 treated wood that I cut into 12" pieces (so, pieces are 12x12x2). Plenty big enough for the jack pads, with a little extra room in case I don't get it in exact right place. Costs very little, and can also be used for leveling blocks when needed. Used to use plastic pads like the one mentioned above. Problem I had with them is their smaller size means you have very little error margin in terms of where you position the pad. Meaning, if you don't sit it EXACTLY where jack pad will come down, the pad will not be entirely on it, making it not quite as solid/stable. With 12x12 blocks, I have a bit more error margin to work with.
willald 07/08/14 01:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Wanting to hear from Class A gas powered owners

How powerful is the V10? PLENTY powerful enough for what you want to do. I've owned two V10s - one in the Ford Excursion we used to have that towed (very well) a 34' TT, and one in the 36' class A we have now. I've never had any problems going as fast as I want to. And, we do travel through the mountains quite often. FYI, Ford boosted the power on the V10s long about 2006, with 3 valve-per-cylinder heads and a newer intake manifold. This boosted its output to 362 horsepower, and 457 foot-lbs of torque. Our Excursion we had previously had the older V10, the MH has the newer one. You can definitely tell a difference in power, the new V10 definitely has more 'throat' and throttle response than the old one did. Does it struggle towing a car? No. I've towed a 4600 lb minivan behind our 36' MH, and (now) a 3700 lb Ford Fusion. V10 handled both just fine. It gets a bit 'loud' when it kicks down a gear when pulling through the mountains, but the V10 is made to turn those high RPMs, and will run just fine that way. What size cars are you towing behind it? See answer to last question. :) What kind of MPG should one expect? Obviously a lot of factors enter into that, but I average around 7 mpg, towing or not. Same I got, I might add, when towing the 34' TT with a V10 powered Excursion. Sounds like your use, camping style is about the same as ours - weekend trips and a couple week long trips a year. For us, a gasser MH fits much, much better for numerous reasons. I think it would work well for you, too, as long as everything else about the MH you chose is right (floorplan, price, etc). One thing I just HAVE to say here, about one poster's comments: From driving a V10 powered C class I couldn't imagine how that V10 would handle in anything bigger, I see your foot down all the time. 82 pounds per HP seams to be pushing it. Id try going with a diesel. A V10 powered class C on an E450 (or E350) chassis) has a 'watered down' version of the V10, that only puts out around 305 horsepower. The v10 that goes in the F53 Class A chassis puts out 362 horsepower. Sooo, its not really a good comparison, comparing a V10 powered Class C to a V10 Class A that has over 50 more horsepower. Not to mention the handling difference between an F53 class A chassis and an E450 the Class C is on. I think a V10 gasser Class A would work great for the OP (original poster). Especially on the long trips to Florida. Its really, really nice having everything at your disposal on the road - bathroom, kitchen/refrigerator, etc.
willald 07/07/14 02:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Want to upgrade - Is diesel worth it?

Every coach (class A, B and C), 5th wheel and TT will find a home that will be perfect for that family. As they say in the car business, there is a butt for every seat. Yep, that pretty much sums it up, Mark. Will
willald 07/02/14 12:17pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Amish fridge goes into dumpster!

I'm curious, those of you that have done away with LP gas entirely, and say you've gone totally electric: What are you using for heat? Did you find an electric furnace to replace the LP gas furnace most units come with? Or are you just relying on various stand-alone heaters, that don't use the heat ducts your coach has? I personally would hate not having ducted heat, would make it really tough to keep entire coach warm in the winter.. that post mentioned he had Aqua hot, which is diesel powered. Right, Aqua hot is used to heat the water, I got that. I am more curious about what folks are using, to heat the entire coach, what they've replaced the traditional LP furnace with.. Will
willald 07/02/14 08:17am Class A Motorhomes
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