..Regardless what you decide, there are a few important things to consider, when reading all the posts from people that claim to have seen 'failures' of lube pumps, and won't use one as a result:
Yes, a lube pump is one more thing that can go wrong. HOWEVER, contrary to what you read from some folks, 99% of the time when/if a Remco lube pump fails, you are NOT going to fry a transmission, as long as everything was initially installed correctly. Worst case, you might be 'inconvenienced' for a while (have to drive toad separately) until issue is resolved, but that is about it.
It is a 'myth' some folks have started, that a Remco pump failure will fry a transmission. Does not really happen anymore, with the new design Remco uses. That 'myth' probably started several years ago back when that was indeed a risk. Its not so much anymore, with the monitor panel/box Remco uses.
Remco provides a monitor/control box for the pump that mounts to dash of your Motorhome. It connects to the lube pump, and to a pressure sensor on output side of the lube pump. If pressure drops, or pump stops (or is not) running, you get a loud beeping and red light coming on to let you know something is wrong. As long as you pull over within a few miles and quit towing until the issue is resolved, you are NOT going to hurt your transmission. Regardless what all the doom-preachers say, haha. :)
Also, something else nobody really talks about, when it comes to a Remco transmission pump: They (Remco) are confident enough in their product, that THEY provide a warranty for your transmission, that will cover the cost of repair/replacement to such for 40,000 miles from the time you install a Remco pump on it. Soo, there is at least some security there, that you will be covered in the case of a total (and highly unlikely) disaster.
To answer your other specific questions: No, Remco pump will NOT necessarily work for any/all automatic transmission vehicles. You'll have to go to their web page and look your specific vehicle up on their web site to see if they have a model that will work for the vehicle you have or are considering.
As to warranty being voided: As I already said, Remco provides their own warranty for their product, and your transmission. However, if you do have a transmission failure, there is the chance that the vehicle manufacturer will use the lube pump as an excuse to refuse to cover the transmission repair. However, I seriously, seriously doubt, all things considered, if this has EVER happened.
We used a Remco lube pump for a while, on a Kia minivan we used to tow. It worked fine for the most part, once we straightened out some mistakes made with installation (dealer that did installation got to take care of those). Ultimately we quit towing that vehicle 'cause we got one that was easier and simpler to tow, a Ford Fusion Hybrid. However, I'd have no problem going with a lube pump again, if we ever wanted to flat tow a vehicle that could not be towed any other way.
Yes, if you're going to use a tow dolly, you really, really should have a hitch receiver installed on your toad, so it can drag the dolly around when need be. There are lots of various situations where you will want/need that option, not just in the event of a tow.
Waaaaaay too many other variables involved, to say if the 18k vs 20.5 chassis would have a better ride. It all depends on the specific coaches in question and how they're built.
You just got to take both for a test drive, and decide for yourself. Floorplan is probably the more important deciding factor, anyway, much more than chassis weight rating/size.
SIX pages of:
"THAT won't work!"
"Yes, it will!"
"No, it won't!"
"But, I have done it, and it does work!"
"No, it can't work!"
et cetera, ad infinitum, ad nauseum!
Nothing new to see here, just move along...
Mowermech, isn't that what 90% of the threads on here evolve into, in one form or another? :)
Well, it just means that something, somewhere, is staying on in your Taurus when towing it (with key in ACC mode), and that is draining the battery. Not uncommon at all.
Your choices to solve this go something like this:
1. Find out what is causing the drain, and turn it off when towing, if you can do so without hurting anything. Usually done by pulling a fuse or installing a switch of some kind.
2. Disconnect the battery whenever you tow.
3. Install a charge line from Motorhome to your toad, to keep battery charged.
I personally recommend option #3. Tis the easiest, simplest solution, and costs very little. I had to do that with my 2013 Ford Fusion Hybrid that we tow, and its worked great. Battery stays completely fresh and charged up when towing.
Here is my question; If this way is the better way to winterize, why don't the RV places use this method instead of the antifreeze method?
Actually, they do. I know of at least one major, well respected RV manufacturer that when asked about this subject, said that they use the compressor blow out method on units they ship up north, and they say it works just fine.
I also know of an mobile RV service tech that is contracted to winterize several RVs that are parked somewhat permanently up in the mountains. He also, used air.
I have always used air blow out method to winterize. Been doing it that way for years, as long as I can remember. Never had an issue. My thoughts have always been, if its good enough for the ones that build these things, AND for a service professional that works on them every day, its good enough for me.
However, after watching my brother in law have a plumbing leak on one of the toilets in his RV last Spring after he did the blow-out method....I'm starting to re-think that. Made me feel bad that I taught him how to winterize with the air compressor, he followed my suggestion for such, and had a plumbing fitting on the toilet break the next Spring.
I think the key is, you have to do it right, and many people do not. With the blow-out method, there is not as much room for error. You have to get all the water out, and that takes a little more time with the air method than it does with antifreeze. The big advantage, though, is that you keep that nasty pink stuff completely out of your fresh water lines, so 'de-winterizing' is pretty much non existant.
Not sure if I'm going to continue using the air method or not...
Ask to see the odometer certification. If it says the odometer miles are the actual miles on the vehicle, I would pass on it. If they don't choose to tell the truth about that, what else are they covering up?
IMO, a vehicle that has been towed any distance should NOT state that the odometer mileage is accurate!
..Have to respectfully disagree with you on this one, mowermech.
Using your logic here, any vehicle that has been towed in to a dealer or mechanic for repairs, when sold, would have to have a statement saying the odometer is not accurate. If that was the case, there'd be an AWFUL lot of used cars on the market with an invalid odometer statement on it, haha. Sorry, that is not realistic, nor going to happen.
The odometer is meant to indicate how many miles that the vehicle has been DRIVEN, under power by the engine. It does NOT necessarily indicate how many miles the vehicle has been towed. Two very different things there.
Any time you buy a vehicle with base plates on the front, you know that its been towed some, and that this adds some additional wear to it. No arguing that, and you just have to factor that in when buying such a vehicle. However, I don't think its realistic to expect anyone selling a vehicle like that to have an odometer statement saying the odometer is inaccurate, because the odometer (most likely) IS still accurate - It shows how many miles the vehicle has been driven.
Buy separate LP and CO detectors.........battery operated OK
Install CO in bedroom area on wall 1' down from ceiling
Install LP in an other area (kitchen) down low (bottom of cabinet etc)
(Remove LP Solenoid.......lots of MFG. no longer install them)
Then cover old location with a decorative wall register plate....
Excellent idea, old biscuit, I like it! One of those wall register plates would cover the hole up very nicely. Then, like you said, would be free to get battery operated separate units, and put them as far away from the bathroom as possible, eliminating this issue.
Only thing is, now that the dealer is sending us a new detector free of charge...Kinda makes it tough to justify, right now, spending the $$ to get separate CO and LP units and buying one of those wall registers. If this happens again, though, and we fry a 3rd detector, we will almost certainly go this route. Think I'm going to have to bookmark this thread for the future. :)
Lots of manufacturers are no longer installing the gas solenoids any more? Hmmmm, interesting. Makes me even more tempted to get rid of that solenoid, regardless how or what we use to replace the detector.
Yep, the sensor on the detector is getting covered with hairspray and Lysol. If enough of either/both of those stick near the sensor, on the grille or whatever, the detector will go off randomly.
Tell the wife that the next detector is coming out of her beauty budget. ;)
You can get stand-alone CO/LP battery or electric detectors and put them where you want. But they would just get covered in gunk, too, most likely.
I've seriously thought about doing that, too. If putting a vent cover and using the vent fan doesn't keep this from happening again, next time I may well just get a battery powered unit and put it further away from the bathroom.
Check the date of mfg. They are only good for so many years.
LOL, both of these went nuts loooooong before the date noted on the back. The first one went out in less than a year, second one went out after just over 2 years. :)
'Sensor' is being covered with hairspray, other aerosols etc.
After a while the 'sensor' is shot
Your title is CO/LP and then in your post you talk about CO
IS this a combo CO/LP that is hardwired to rv battery?
It is a combo CO/LP unit hardwired to the battery, yes. It also is wired to a solenoid on LP gas line, that shuts off gas when LP is detected. I am extremely tempted, though, when I replace it this time, to remove that solenoid from the gas line and not use that part...
I hate combo CO/LP because each has differing mounting requirements.
LP should be down low....close to floor as that is where propane settles
CO should be wall mounted about 1 foot down from ceiling.
Can you remount elsewhere vs next to bathroom.
I wish! It has to be down low since its an LP detector. Only thing I can do is move it maybe 2-3' down same wall, that much further away from bathroom door. However, DW gets very 'animated' when I talk about moving it, 'cause of the hole it would leave where it is now, that we couldn't easily cover up and make look OK. Sooo, moving it is out (argh).
Or is hairspray really necessary..........7 yrs full time GF never used any. Cut her hair short/sassy ----- wash/wear :B
Ohhh, don't EVEN get me started along that line!! No, it is NOT necessary, but you know how it is, what we have to do to keep our women happy (and what happens when they ain't happy, hahahaha!)
Our CO/LP detector went nuts again this last weekend camping. By 'going nuts', I mean, it started going off at random times repeatedly, when it is impossible for there to be any CO or LP present.
It did the same thing back in October 2012, several months after we first bought the RV new in March 2012. In February 2013, the CO/LP detector was replaced by the dealer under warranty. Now, just over 2 years later, the detector they put in (under warranty) has done the same thing. We have gone through two CO/LP detectors in the course of 3 years with this RV. Our previous RV that we had for 9 years, and the one we had before that for 3 years, we NEVER had to replace a detector, ever. Obviously, something isn't right.
There is NOT ever a low voltage issue, as our RV stays parked at our house when not in use, hooked up to shore power. Sooo, there is always a good supply of 12 volts going to it. And, before anyone says it: I am 110% certain, that there is NOT any CO or LP present when this thing is going off like this. It goes off sometimes, when gas (and all appliances using such) are shut off.
Anyway, I *think* I see a pattern of why they are failing, and want to run this by everyone and get some thoughts: On our RV we have now, the detector is located right outside the bathroom door (was not like that on previous units we've owned). No matter how many times I tell DW to turn on the bathroom vent in the morning before using her hair spray, most times she does not, and that #% hair spray sets off the CO detector every time! It seems with time, after the detector goes off 6 or 7 times total due to hair spray (or one time Lysol caused it), it starts to go 'nuts', and the erroneous, random alarms start happening more and more often. Eventually it gets bad enough I have to just disconnect and replace it.
I think, having the detector right outside the bathroom door, in our situation makes it go off way too often, which leads to its demise.
Fortunately, (and actually due to an unrelated mistake they made), our RV dealer is going to order us a new detector, free of charge even this second time. Sooo, even this second time, it won't cost us any $$ to replace the detector. However, I definitely need to correct this problem, and stop burning out CO detectors so often. Next time one goes out, it will come out of my pocket to replace it.
Has anyone else experienced these detectors going bad quickly after it gets set off a few times by various aerosol can products? Is this even possible, or is there something else that is making these things fail so often for us?
I looked at trying to re-locate the detector further away from the bathroom, but have not yet found a way to do that. Part of the problem is that the bathroom vent is one of the simple kind with a simple hand-crank to open it. DW cannot reach the hand crank to open it, so if I don't open it for her, we have this issue. I am seriously thinking about putting a Max Air vent cover on that vent, so that we can leave the vent open all the time. Then, she can turn on the vent fan when she needs to, hopefully alleviating this issue with CO detector frying itself.
Thoughts? Anything else we might do that I'm not thinking about, to prevent burning these things up so often?
Rubbermaid bin would be your best bet. Cheap and simple.
This is what we use, it works great. We carry tiki torches, always have. Cannisters are always empty when we store them, we don't fill them up until just before lighting. And, they are always empty (all tiki fuel burned off) before we put them away.
Storing the cannisters is easy, harder part is finding storage space long enough for the pole/torch itself. That's what pass-thru storage bins are for. :)
I really didn't hardly notice a difference this season, in terms of how many folks were/are out camping. I'm not convinced that fuel prices have made that much difference. Those that want to get out and camp/RV are doing so, and will do so regardless of what fuel costs.
As to how we find a camping spot: We almost always have reservations, that are made well in advance. We are 'planners'. Always have worked that way, and probably always will. I've found that our trips are much more pleasant and relaxing, knowing that I have a guaranteed site where I'm going. In many cases I also know exactly what site I'll have, how much space it offers, etc. We've never had to worry about getting to our destination and not having a campsite we can comfortably fit in. That, IMO, is well worth having to pay some $$ up front for a reservation, and planning ahead to make such reservations.
Many of the places we go, during the times we go, there really is no choice - You will not get a site there without a reservation.
I imagine that if camping/RVs does get more and more popular as some are saying it is...Yes, it will get more and more difficult for folks that don't plan and make reservations to get in the nicer parks, campsites. Glad that won't be a problem for us. :)
We go muuuch further now than we ever would have before, and it makes for a much nicer trip this way. Quick, overnight stops along the way on a long trip are much, much easier with a MH, too, since you can pull in, rest for the night, and leave the next morning with much less setup/takedown involved.
The only advantage a MH has over my FW and truck is that one doesn't have to go from the truck to the FW when one stops for the night. I could stop for the night and had access to everything needed in the FW when I stopped with zero setup, did not even need to put the slide out.
..Strictly with respect to setup/takedown for a quick stopover, that would be true. However, in many other areas, the MH has huge advantages over any towable RV. Like, having all facilities available to everyone when on the road, much larger, more comfortable cab, much better visibility with huge windshield up front....I could continue, but I think that's been discussed enough already. :)
Ask your passengers/family which they'd be more comfortable traveling long distances in: A MH, or a pickup truck cab. I think we all know what their answer will be. :)
..I think there is one piece of 'misinformation' being implied in a few posts here, that needs to get cleared up, concerning traveling in a Motorhome:
There are only TWO seats/people in a Motorhome, that are required by law to be buckled up: The driver, and the passenger. That is all. In many cases, there many not even BE seatbelts for all the other passengers! And, if there are, unless significant modification was done after market, NONE of the seatbelts (besides driver and passenger) are going to be truly DOT compliant.
Soo, we need to throw this 'all passengers are required by law to be buckled in at all times in a MH when in motion' nonsense right out the window. That is a false, unrealistic non-truth often thrown up by folks that own towable RVs and don't know the laws, reality of traveling in a Motorhome. I know, 'cause I used to be that way, too, when we owned a TT. :)
Now, is it a good idea to require folks to stay buckled up when traveling, as much as is realistically possible? Absolutely, and that is our rule. However, if one wants to get up briefly to get a drink, use the bathroom every once in a while, I have no problem with that, and allow my family to do just that. Our only rule is that when you're sitting at a seat that has a seat belt, you use it and buckley up. We do not allow our kids to lay down in their bunks or on the bed in the back when traveling, either, as we don't have restraints on the beds (although just may look into such sometime).
Anyway, back to the original topic, somewhat: We actually stepped up to a Class A Motorhome for the very reason alluded to by the subject of this thread - We wanted to make it easier and more comfortable for everybody, to take longer trips. It is 100 times nicer traveling in a MH than it was in a truck with the RV trailer. We go muuuch further now than we ever would have before, and it makes for a much nicer trip this way. Quick, overnight stops along the way on a long trip are much, much easier with a MH, too, since you can pull in, rest for the night, and leave the next morning with much less setup/takedown involved.
I vote, skip using chocks that sit on the ground or on blocks, and get you a set of BAL 'X' tire chocks that clamp between the tires of your TT. Highly recommend you get a pair of them (BAL used to sell a 2 pack of them, not sure if they still do?), so you can lock the tires on both sides.
Thats what we used for many years when we had an RV trailer, and they always worked great. Held the trailer in place very well, and were very easy to put on and take off. I only use blocks for leveling.
And, yes, the Camco blocks you have are a good choice, you will like them. I have two sets of them (total of 20), and still use them pretty regularly.
Here's some more that come up on here quite frequently, that I haven't seen anybody mention yet:
I'm better because I paid cash for my RV and get to live debt free. Nooo, I'm better, because I know how to use other people's money wisely, to have the things that I want while I'm still young enough to enjoy them.
I'm better because I never drive faster than 60mph with my RV, making me much safer because I can stop quicker. Nooo, I'm better, because I keep up with traffic (even if its going 70mph) and don't risk causing a traffic slowdown.
I'm better because I carry Emergency Roadside service (Good Sam ERS, AAA, whatever). Noooo, I'm better, because I'm resoureful enough to take care of my own problems without such, and don't have to spend $$ on roadside service plans.
I'm better because I carry a spare tire for my RV and am prepared to handle a flat tire on my own. Noooo, I'm better, because I rely on roadside service to take care of that, and don't have to waste $$ and space on my RV for a spare that will probably never be used.
The OP is exactly right - Threads/discusssions on here end up like this waaaaaay too often. In some cases it does take away from the intended purpose of forums like this.
Sounds like you're building exactly what Magneshade has had for some time. We have Magne shades for our MH, and they are great. Provide great shade and shield out a lot of heat from the sun, yet you can still see out it very clearly. Very easy to put up and take down, too.
Sorry, I can't really provide you any advice on what kind of magnets to get, except to say that the ones Magneshade uses for same purpose you are talking about, they are REALLY strong. When initially installing the magnets inside, you have to be very careful, as they can pinch and hurt you.
I'd look at what a Magneshade will cost for your MH. Yes, they are not cheap, but depending on what magnets you buy, you may end up spending close to same amount doing this yourself vs buying some from Magneshade.
Wow, that's quite a description, and make a lot of sense...
I think I'll put my money into some other braking system!
--------------------------------------------------------------the type of system that Ready Brake uses is subject to Hysteresis. So, if you step on the brake (especially if you hit the RV brakes hard), the toad pushes forward into the back of the RV. This movement is mechanically transferred to the toad brake through a lever and a cable. Then the cable pulls on the toad brake pedal as though a driver had stomped on the pedal. The toad would then pull backwards from the RV releasing the pressure on the lever and cable, and letting up on the brake. Then the toad (not braking any longer - but the RV is still braking) overtakes the back of the RV and which causes the lever to pull the cable connected to the toad brake pedal and the toad slams on the brakes and the whole cycle starts over again. The remedy for this herky jerky braking, is to use something like a shock absorber to stifle the repetitive action of the lever pulling on the brake cable.
Yes, its quite a description. However, it also is a description that is about 20 years out of date when it comes to surge brake systems. :)
Suggesting that a modern system like Readybrake is prone to this behavior, would be a little bit like saying all automobile owners risk breaking an arm when starting it, from having to turn the crank at the front to start the engine (like they used to on old Model Ts, remember? haha! :) )