Wonder if they'll re-introduce the UFO rear engine gas chassis?:h
Now, that would be cool! That 8.8 V8 in a pusher chassis, would give the diesel pusher manufacturers some good competition. And, like already said, competition is good for ALL of us. Somebody needs to give Ford some competition in this (gasser MH chassis) market, they've had it cornered for too long.
Still, though, I would not want to buy a MH built on this chassis, until they've had them out for a few years and got the bugs worked out. I don't like being anybody's 'guinea pig', haha. :)
This too was a problem for us, and I concur that it is related to the low oil level switch. When we were having the problem I was using 5W30 oil in the generator as I could use it year round. However, I switched to straight 30 weight oil (per the manual) for the warmer months and this problem seems to have been eliminated....
Hmm, interesting, hadn't thought about the weight of the oil making this (shut-off during sudden moves) issue more or less likely to happen.
I actually run Onamax straight 30 weight oil year round in mine. It stays warm enough here to allow that. Still even with 30 weight in it year round, this issue still happens every once in a while.
We have 3 on the dinette and 3 on the sofa. Very comfy to travel with 6 + 2. We, however, will never see over 10mpg. Actually, 7-8 range.
To each their own, and I guess it depends on the 3 on the sofa and the size of the sofa itself, but....Most sofas I've seen in RVs, I would not consider 3 people on them as anything like 'comfy' for long trips (even if 1 or 2 of them were children).
That was why I indicated only comfortable way to do this, would be with dual sofas.
To do that (comfortably!) in a Class A, IMO you need one with dual sofas and a dinette, minimum. That's going to put you in the 38-40' range, or bigger (and probably in the realm of diesel pushers, for which the price goes up substantially).
Or a very few select gassers. ;) Ours is 36'. We've slept 4 adults, 2 teens, 3 kids and an overweight golden retriever. We used an air mattress and sleeping bags to supplement the sofas, dinette & bed. We could'a handled 2 more if anyone wanted to sleep in the driver & passenger chairs. :) A bit crowded, but not bad if everyone is friendly. :)
Hehe, noticed that I said, to "comfortably!" do this. :)
Yes, there are a few gassers out there with dual sofas and a dinette, but not many (yours is indeed one of the few). Most units with dual sofas are going to be 38' or longer, and on a diesel pusher chassis.
This is absolutely fine, it was designed to work this way. 'Tis one of the main reasons why motorized RVs have a generator, and towable RVs don't: You have to keep everyone comfortable when on the road with a motorized unit, but not with a towable.
We do this all the time when traveling in the summer. The dashboard A/C will keep things cool enough up front for me and DW, but it will not even begin to cool the rest of the coach. Our kids would be very hot and unconfortable if we didn't run the generator and overhead AC unit.
One downside to doing this that I really hate: Like already said, genny cuts off when you get down to only 1/3 or 1/4 of a fuel tank. This limits how far we can go before refueling in the summer.
Oh, one other thing I've learned with our Onan genny about running it when on the road: It will shut off if you make a very sudden movement, like a 'panic' stop, sudden swerve/turn, etc. I think its the low oil switch that kicks it off in a sudden movement, as too much oil sloshes away from the sensor. I've tried putting a little more oil in, doesn't seem to matter. It rarely happens and takes almost a 'panic' type movement to cause this, but it is something to be aware of. Not a big deal, if I see after such a movement that the generator has shut off, I just reach over on the dash and hit the 'start' button to re-start it.
6 adults, 2 children, and 3 dogs while traveling? Wow, thats a lot. To do that (comfortably!) in a Class A, IMO you need one with dual sofas and a dinette, minimum. Thats going to put you in the 38-40' range, or bigger (and probably in the realm of diesel pushers, for which the price goes up substantially). Good thing is that with a unit that size, you could probably sleep that many as well if you wanted to (although it may get a bit crowded).
Oh, and yes, as already said, 10 mpg ain't going to happen with ANY Class A you get that will meet your needs outlined here. 7 or 8 is a bit more realistic.
That, or maybe get you a pickup to tow the 5er (keep the 5er), and have some folks ride in the pickup, the rest ride in your Navion or follow in their own vehicle? That would be much more cost effective. Pickups that can handle a large 5er aren't cheap, but are much, MUUCH cheaper than a Class A unit that will do what you want.
I guess its a question of how much its worth to you, to have everyone riding together in the same vehicle. No doubt, there is no better way to travel than with everyone together in a big Class A. Just can't be beat it, as most any Class A owner will tell you. However, traveling that way is also very, very EXPENSIVE all around.
..Since it sounds like you haven't bought any of the towing hardware yet, I highly, HIGHLY recommend you look at the tow bar and integrated braking system offered by NSA, the Readybrute Elite tow bar and Readybrake braking system package.
You basically get a very nice tow bar AND braking system, for almost the same $$ as you'll pay for just a tow bar alone from anyone else. That alone right there, will save you several hundred $$ (close to $1k) from what you'll pay for a tow bar and separate braking system of any other type. And, you get a very simple, reliable, no-nonsense cable operated braking sytem that simply works, and works great.
As to your specific question about installation cost for a braking system: Really depends a lot on the braking system and the vehicle involved. Can range anywhere from $0 for a 'brake-in-a-box' system like Brake Buddy that you have to put in and take out every time you tow, to right up around $1000 for installation of the more complicated electronic systems.
The Readybrake system I mentioned is somewhere between those two extremes, again depending on the vehicle involved. It is a pretty simple installation, though, since it only involves installing, routing a physical cable from the brake pedal out to front of the vehicle.
A good point was made earlier, too: Are you asking about strictly the cost of installation with regards to a braking system, or installation of everything required for flat towing? There is a huge difference, as there are other installation costs for flat towing that you have to do regardless whether you use a braking system or not: Base plates, tail light wiring, etc.
I think the Prius is front wheel drive in both electric and gas. Of course when running electric it is different setup. I wonder how all of these only electric cars might tow.
..In the case of Ford's C-max and Fusion hybrids (as well as the full electric 'energi' version of both) that use the eCVT transmission, they flat tow great, with full factory support from Ford.
'Tis one huge advantage, IMO, that Ford's hybrids have over Toyota's Prius. You can flat tow any of Ford's hybrids all day with almost no restrictions. The Toyota Prius has to be towed either on a dolly or a flat bed trailer.
If the GPS fails then use a voice activated route service. It's called a Wife. It will roll down the window automatically and ask for directions. It's free and doesn't need any cell towers or satellites. :)
However, anyone that thinks a 'wife' is anything REMOTELY like 'free'....Welll, they either live in a serious dream world, or haven't been married very long. :)
Generally speaking, backing up when flat towing is a bad idea that should be avoided. It is usually best to just avoid getting into situations that require backing up. Failing that, just unhook, back up, re-position, and hook back up.
HOWEVER, contrary to what many will tell you, in many situations it CAN be done as long as you are cautious, go slooow, and use your head.
A lot depends on the specifc toad and its front suspension design, The suspension on some vehicles is much more forgiving than others when being pushed backwards. Jeep Wranglers in particular, even though they are very popular as toads, they seem to be the most unforgiving when it comes to pushing them backwards. Their front wheels will slam to one side almost instantly, and tear something up. I guess, 'tis one of the downsides to a vehicle built so well for off-roading.
OTOH, I've seen some FWD vehicles pushed all the way across a parking lot without a problem. I personally once pushed our Kia minivan a good 30-40' backwards when experimenting in a parking lot. It worked OK as long as I was on a smooth surface and kept the MH wheels straight.
The Motorhome involved plays a role, too. Generally speaking, the more rear overhang the Motorhome has, the more potential 'swing' it could have when backing, making it more difficult to back without jack-knifing the toad.
Personally, I've never yet had to unhook and back up (except of course, at back-in campsites). There were a few times I just 'coasted' backwards (sloooowly) a few feet to clear an obstacle, but other than that, we've always managed to avoid having to back up. However, we've only been doing the flat towing thing for 'bout 3 years. I'm sure one day it'll happen to us; when it does, we'll just deal with it. Good thing about flat towing is that when/if this happens, unhitching and hitching up is so quick and easy, its really not that big a deal.
Could be as simple as while driving down the road you let your fuel gauge go below 1/4 tank. The geneator fuel inlet will not suck gas below a 1/4 tank as a safety feature. If between 1/4 and 1/2 and you were going up hill or down hill on a long grade it will also be below the genny inlet tube in the gas tank and cause the same problem.
I'm betting this is the cause. Original poster said that this happened when they took their first real long trip with it, so I bet they got down close to or below 1/4 of a tank of fuel, resulting in the generator running dry on fuel.
I know why they are built that way, but I still don't like the fact that generator can only run on first 3/4 of a tank of fuel. When traveling in hot weather where you need your generator and air conditioners running, it severely limits your range between fill-ups when you lose your generator and air conditioners at 1/4 of a tank. I've thought a few times about trying to change this, and make the generator fuel pickup feed from ENTIRE fuel tank, not just the first 3/4 (anyone ever done that?)
Glad someone looked up the trouble code involved here, 36, which it turns out is a fuel related issue, not overheating. Does not appear overheating had anything to do with what happened here. Also, is kinda funny how folks with diesel generators swear that these Onan generators are water-cooled, since theirs is. Onan GAS powered RV generators have almost ALWAYS been air cooled, and still are. :)
Be sure you have a good paper map as a back up. Sometimes I am dumbfounded at the errors they display.
..If you don't take any other advice on this subject, heed this advice!
GPS devices are a great tool to help with navigation, but you cannot rely on them 100%. They are not always very accurate, and only know what is in their database, which may or may not be 100% up to date and correct.
I use a Garmin RV 760 LMT. Its a great unit, I highly recommend it. But, regardless what GPS you get, get in the habit of using paper maps, maps.google or other tools as a backup so you know your route and generally where you're going beforehand. Relying on a GPS alone/blindly can get you into a world of trouble.
Will: did you use the 7 pin to 4 pin plug shown on the highlighted E-Trailer and how did you run the power line, from the #7 pin on the base plate? I assume it would remain "hot".? The more I see this the better it sounds. The brand shown is what I used to fabricate the umbilical, except I went one size better ie; instead of 14ga went with 12ga, as opposed to what Roadmaster used.
No, I didn't use a 7 pin to 4 pin adapter. I bought a wire similar to THIS but longer, connected it to the 4 flat connector for the magnetic lights. Then, ran the wires for such under the car to the front, and connected the wires directly to the appropriate pins on the back of the 6 round connector at front of the Fusion.
I used a 6 round connector and 6 pin umbilical cord, not the 7 pin one that you used. I only needed 6 'pins':
12V power/charge line (yes, always 'hot' which is why its fused)
Right Turn & Stop (magnetic lights)
Left Turn & Stop (magnetic lights)
Tail lights (magnetic lights)
Brake light LED indicator on MH dash (goes to brake sensor I installed in the Fusion)
Ask your insurance agent this:
If I break down late at night, on a weekend or holiday in the middle of nowhere and have no idea who to call for towing assistance, do you provide a 24/7 phone # I can call, where someone will answer, determine my location, find the closest towing service or whatever that I need, and get them to my location to help me?
That is frequently the big difference with Good Sam ERS, AAA, or Coach Net. They provide a call center open 24/7 that you can call. They will find you a towing service or whatever you need closest to you and get them to your location when you're in unfamilar territory and don't know who to call.
The peace of mind that gives you, IMO that alone makes it worth the $$.
A policy with State Farm or whatever insurance that covers expenses from a breakdown AFTER its done and over, but no 24/7 call center to help you when you're stranded during off hours....Doesn't do you much good when you're broke down, stranded in the middle of nowhere and don't know who to call to get help.
Were the lights individual or on a bar. I am aware of the blue ox electrical connector on the base plate. Do the lights have markings for the different functions? Brand and where purchased?
Lights are individual. Don't remember exactly where I bought them and the brand, but the magnetic light set I have is something very similar to THIS set from e-trailer.
The beauty of this arrangement is, it cost very little, and can easily be removed and put on the next toad when/if we ever trade vehicles. I've never liked the idea of spending $70 or more on a wiring kit, that you have to turn around and buy all over again whenever you trade vehicles.
I made the electrical umbilical cord (between coach & towed) and used #7 for a charge line to the battery. Do you have a charge line or can't be done on hybrid?
Ah, you bring up a very, very good point here, that I didn't mention before: YES, you absolutely need a charge line with these Ford Hybrids! With these new Ford hybrids, when you tow them with key in ACC position as it has to be, there is a significant drain on the battery. If you don't run a charge line, you will drain the battery down quickly, and after just a few hours of towing, will need a jump start (learned that the hard way, haha).
I don't recall the specific wire gauge I used, but yes, I have a charge line. Fortunately, even though the battery is in the back with the Fusion, there is a + battery terminal connector up front, under the hood (used for jump starting), that you can easily wire to. Thats what I did. Also, make sure you put a fuse on that charge line (I believe mine is a 15 amp fuse), close to where you connect to the + terminal on the Fusion.
The local Ford dealer must be your brother...$250.00, dirt cheap.
Hehe, yeah, we do have a good relationship with the Ford dealer here. Other thing was that we had just bought, brought home the new Fusion just a day before I brought it to them and asked them to install the base plate. The sale was so new, recent, they were still in 'sales' mode, and willing to do anything to make us happy. I think thats why they were so reasonable with it.
I too, was surprised at what the bill was for installing the base plate. I paid quite a bit more than that when I had a base plate installed a few years before on another vehicle, by an RV dealer.
..Tons of factors enter into this. So much so, that there really is no one specific cover-all answer to this question of tow bar height difference that is 'safe'.
Some tow bars are more tolerant of being unlevel than others. The specifics of the MH and toad involved plays a role, too. If you're using a braking system like ReadyBrake, the tolerance there is a little less, as it works best when things are level.
Also, you also need to think about ramifications of using too much 'drop'. The bigger of a 'drop' bar you use, the more likely your rig is to scrape and drag back there when going over bumps, inclines, etc. This can damage or weaken your hitch reciever, tow bar, or both. This is especially true with Motorhomes that have a long overhang past the rear axle.
I'd much rather have a tow bar that is 2" out of level, than one that is perfectly level but scrapes and drags so bad that you risk weakening the hitch to the point that it can break and let the toad loose going down the highway!
Thats why you shouldn't buy completely into the 'get the tow bar as close to level as you possibly can no matter what' mentality. There are other factors to consider.
..I don't live in the southwest, but I do tow a 2013 Fusion Hybrid. Been towing it for 2 years now, and its been great.
I went with a Blue Ox base plate, ordered from hitchsource.com. Cost was around $380 IIRC. Had our local Ford dealer do the installation, they did a great job with it, charged about $250 for the install (labor).
As to the wiring for the lights: I pretty much did that myself for very little $$. Went with the magnetic lights, but mounted them somewhat permanently INSIDE the vehicle, behind the rear headrests on the shelf back there. Piece of velcro holds them in place well. Ran wires for them into the trunk, then up and to a '6 round' connector up at the front of the vehicle (on the baseplate mount provided for such).
I found that the tail lights on the Fusion, as well as the electrical system in general is pretty complicated and NOT something you want to mess with or tap into any more than absolutely necessary. That was why I went with the magnetic lights.
Anyway, hope this helps. Feel free to ask away, anything else you might be curious about with this. :)
Will I remember that original discussion. I must say when I upgraded to the larger 42 gallon tote I was pleasantly surprised to find out pneumatic tire where now standard.
Barker is a great company they replaced my leaking 35 gallon tote no questions asked.
I eventually sold the 35 on Craigslist and purchased a 42 gallon model.
Yeah, our tote is (I think) the 27 gallon unit. We've obviously had it for a very, very long time.
It has developed a tiny leak, as the result of a small crack in the body right where it joins with the dump valve assembly. Not surprising, as old as the tank is and how much we've used it (we've had it for almost 10 years).
I tried repairing it with some epoxy a few times, but it hasn't held. May try something else, but its such a tiny leak, and we only use it for grey water, so its not that big a deal. Have thought about contacting Barker about it, as they'd probably send me a new one for next to nothing, but its soooo old, I hate to ask them to do anything for one this old.
I too would like a bigger 42 gallon unit, and may well move up to a 42 gallon unit one day. Only problem is if we go any bigger than the one we have now, it won't fit in the storage space, places I prefer to put it. :)
Will: I noted that Lowes etc sell pre-mixed fuel in cans that are pure gas and supposedly great for those small engines. It's more expensive, but not really. My trimmer has run better than ever this year using it.
Yep, its definitely the way to go for small engines, as long as you can get ethanol free fuel fairly easily. There is a convenience store almost walking distance from where I live, that sells it (yes, it is at a higher price).
Like I alluded to before, though, its more difficult to go ethanol free in what you put in a Motorhome. Some places we go and have to fill up, we're just happy to find a gas station with enough space for us to get in and out and fill up. Getting ethanol free fuel in those situations as well, just ain't going to happen, haha.
Yes, Barker is a great company, they stand behind their products like few others do. They've helped me several times when I had one of their TT tongue jacks on the TT we used to own, and on the tote tank we've had for several years, that still works great.
Funny you should mention the whole pneumatic wheel thing. Several years ago, me and a few others on here were the first ones to find and install pneumatic wheels on the front and back of these tote tanks. Back ones were easy to get, the front ones were a bit tougher to find. Here is a thread from some time ago where we discussed, completed this modification. Skip to 5th page of that thread, thats where we started talking about this modification (sorry, the picture links in that thread probably do not work anymore).
What was really funny about it: It was not long after we showed on this forum where to get the parts and how to do this, that Barker came out with their new units, that had these pneumatic wheels from the factory! The wheels they use look almost EXACTLY like the pneumatic wheels we used, too! Its as if they were monitoring the forum, and used our idea, work to improve their product, haha. :)