I just received this message back from RV Direct regarding whether or not you get a warranty.
"Yes. We are a Jayco dealer like your dealer down the road, no different. All Jaycos are covered by a two year warranty good at any Jayco dealer.
National Sales Manager
RV One Superstores, Inc"
..Ask him if you have an issue while under warranty and no local Jayco dealer will help, if he has a service department capable of handling any warranty issues you may have. Since he's just like any other Jayco dealer, that shouldn't be a problem, right? :)
From what I have found, RV Direct has very little if any service department. They push that off on other dealers. They're all about sales, thats pretty much it.
It is true, that you still have the manufacturer warranty. However, like already said, getting warranty service can be more of a challenge when you don't have a local dealer that you bought from.
Great feedback willald, thank you. I feel like you understand my needs.
Unless we go with a 5th wheel toy hauler, we'll have a 4x4 toad for getting to trailheads in the middle of nowhere. We have a hitch-mounted rack which is great for transporting the bikes, just not great for storing them long-term.
I'd be ok with a tarp to cover them from the elements, but I worry about leaving my bikes outside in the middle of nowhere, easily accessed, while I'm off backpacking for 4+ days.
Problem with a 5th wheel toy hauler, is that the garage in the back takes up a lot of space you could otherwise have as nice living space, that you will want for full-timing. That, and you'd have to have such a massive pickup to tow it, you may not like having to wrestle a 1 ton dually pickup into locations where your trailhead may be for biking or hiking.
I like the 4runner idea, provided you can find one that is flat towable. A 4 runner might even be light enough, that a big diesel pusher MH may not be necessary to tow it.
..Since you're going to be full-time, I'm betting no matter how much basement storage you have, you will fill it up with other stuff and will not want to tie a bunch of it up with bikes. Also, being full-time, you sure aren't going to want the bikes inside, either. Since you don't want the bikes outside, that pretty well rules out keeping the bikes anywhere on or in the MH. :)
Given your requirements, I think you're limited to two choices, already mentioned: Either a large enclosed trailer to carry both bikes and your toad (and maybe a small shop), or get you a toad large enough to carry bikes inside back of toad. As mentioned in previous post, a good size SUV or pickup truck with a shell should allow such.
I vote for getting a pickup with a shell as your toad. Depending on the shell you use and the pickup, you might could fit the bikes in the back without even having to remove the front wheel. I agree that an enclosed trailer could be difficult to deal with at some campgrounds, I wouldn't want that, either.
Also, going with this approach would allow you to take the bikes with you to off-the-beaten path places with your toad, that you would not want to take the MH. From what it sounds like you want to do, I'm thinking this would be something you'd want, right? :)
When we towed a TT with a large SUV (Ford Excursion), that's what we did - all 4 of our bikes fit in the back of the Excursion. A pickup would be even better, that way you wouldn't be getting the inside of your vehicle dirty when you have to put bikes away dirty. Now, we carry our bikes on the back of our toad with a hitch mounted rack, but I do sometimes miss being able to store the bikes inside like we used to.
..Only downside to the pickup or large SUV for a toad approach: With a toad that heavy, your MH choices will be limited somewhat. Most all gasser MHs will not have a hitch receiver capable of handling a toad that big. You will probably have to go with a diesel pusher of some variety, which will mean a bunch more $$.
We looked at RVdirect a few years ago, seriously considered buying a unit from them. Yes, their prices are sometimes soo much lower than local dealers, it seems too good to be true.
Their pricing is so low, because they have almost no service department to pay for. There is very little if any PDI done at all when you buy from them. They get it from the factory, and its yours. Period. You pretty much own the unit, sign all the papers, etc., before you even can SEE it.
Ultimately, that just did not sit well with us. The idea of having full ownership, responsibility, insurance, etc. for a unit before I even see it, just would not work for me. You could show up to get it, the unit be a complete mess, and it is YOUR unit, your problem by then. Not happening, at least not for us.
(..And thats not to mention, they really don't seem to want trade-ins, as they won't give you squat for them.)
Only way we MIGHT would consider purchasing from them, is if there was no tradein involved, and they had a stock unit like what we wanted, in which case we could look it over real good before signing any papers. Never would I order one, and make 100% financial commitment to it before I even see it. An RV is way too large an investment, too much risk, to do that.
Anyway, we ended up buying from a local dealer, and got a deal very close to what RV Direct was offering. Very glad we did, too, 'cause we've had a great relationship with that dealer, and they've been very helpful for anything we've needed.
Like already said, the one thing RV direct is good for, is using their prices to make local dealers a little more competitive. :)
...I slightly exceeded the 70 mph limit once when trying to finish passing a truck and cresting a hill. I got up to 71, 72 tops.
That happens with me from time to time, too. The speed can sneak up on you on the highways, especially when you're trying to pass a slower vehicle and get back over out of the left lane quickly. I don't think there is any harm from that at all, so long as you don't get too far over for too long.
I can't say for sure that it was in neutral the entire time, but I'm sure it was in N when I discovered the problem and got in the car to press the brake pedal and make sure it started. I had traveled 300 miles that day but only 12 miles were logged. Maybe some bumpy stretches of the highway bounced it into gear and then bounced it back into neutral.
I wasn't suggesting, that you accidentally left it in drive or a gear other than neutral (or that it would have shifted out of neutral on a bumpy road). If that was the case, I think you would have had much more immediate and catastrophic transmission damage.
What I am wondering, is if maybe you did not get the engine/drivetrain turned off as it should be, and it was still active? Just a completely wild guess on my part, but if that did happen, it could explain what happened here.
Another completely wild guess: Does your vehicle have the remote start capability on the FOB? Could somebody have accidentally pressed it at some point in the trip, causing the C-Max drivetrain to turn on?
I'm taking it to the dealer this week for regular service anyway, so I'll ask them to check everything out.
Great idea, I would, too. Do post back on here and let us know what Ford tells you. I'm curious to see what may have caused this.
Agree with previous poster, something is definitely amiss here. I own a Ford hybrid (Fusion) as well, and know a little 'bout them.
With a Ford hybrid vehicle being flat towed, there is no way the gas engine (or electric motor for that matter) should EVER be able to come on, let alone come on and run enough to get the gas engine that hot! My guess is one of the following:
1. Something is seriously, seriously wrong with your C-max, and needs to go to the dealer ASAP to find out what.
2. Some how, some way, a blunder was made when hitching up, and the engine/drivetrain was accidentally left ON when towing.
If #2 is what happened, this could kind of make sense, why mileage was logged for the last 12 miles and overheated. With Ford Hybrids, generally the gas engine only turns on when either:
A) demand for power exceeds power electric motor and battery can provide, or
B) the batteries deplete low enough that gas engine engages to re-charge batteries.
If you accidentally left the engine/drivetrain ON when you hitched up, its possible the gas engine would not come on until the last 12 miles - That might have been the point where the batteries were depleted enough that it forced the engine to come on.
As to how/why the engine over-heated when it turned on for last 12 miles: Not sure on that, but given that Ford does NOT intend for that engine ever to come on when flat towing, nor do they intend for regenerative braking or most other electronic systems to be on when towing (and they may have been)....I can see how overheating might could occur under the conditions described.
Either way, whether you think you may have accidentally left drivetrain on when towing or not, I think I'd still take it to a dealer to be checked out.
Why do you have a filter if you don't drink the water?
..Because the rig we have now (see signature) came standard with the filtration system. We didn't really have a choice in the matter, unless I wanted to remove it. :)
I've not been a big proponent of filtration systems in the past, because we don't typically drink the water. However, after seeing this, I won't be without one, whether we drink the water or not.
I did not intend to start a long debate about water quality and various filtration systems. I just wanted to show a clear, concrete example of why such systems are a good idea.
As to turtlenpeeps comments/insults: LOL, I learned a long time ago that with public internet forums, posts like that are just the kind of thing you have to deal with from time to time. There are those that just like to insult and stir up cr*p, no matter the subject. Any time I post on here, I fully expect (and am prepared to answer) posts like that. :)
So they had rust in their water system? It's not going to kill you. What are you going to complain about? Bad tasting water?
Just what is so bad about drinking rusty water (iron water)?
Wasn't going to call to complain necessarily, as it really didn't impact us that much. I was just thinking it might be a good idea to let them know about it, that this might be something they need to look into.
I agree its not going to kill anyone, I'm just not used to seeing a water filter get THAT dirty that quickly. Like I said, normally I only replace that filter at the end of every season, and it has never before even looked like it needed replacing then.
..We just got back from a week of camping up in the mountains around Pigeon Force, TN. Had a great time up there, in spite of how hot its been.
Anyway, we heard some campers talking about how the water at the campground was not very clean. Seemed OK in our camper, so didnt think much about it. Then, just before we left to come home yesterday, I looked at the filter on our RV's filtration system. For the first time EVER, that thing was completely brown inside! Have never seen that happen before, usually I only change that filter at the end of each season, and it is still completely white/clear when I change it. Not this time. Just 1 week at this campground, and filter was completely brown, bad enough I replaced it as soon as we got home!
Just for kicks, I snapped a picture of the filter before I removed it. Check this out:
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss154/willald/RV%20stuff/Georgetown%20351DS/2393DEC3-A779-4216-A11B-14CCAFF65ADE_zpsvpth7uej.jpg height=400 width=300
Upon examining the water spigot closer when we were unhooking yesterday to pull out, it looks like that is all rust contamination, coming from the spigot itself. I'm seriously considering calling the campground and having a word with them about it. Not to ask for a refund or anything like that, but more to let them know of this situation, as someone that drinks this water without using a filtration system...Yikes!
..The lesson we learned, that can be learned from this: If you don't have a filtration system of some kind...GET ONE. I've not been a big proponent of such in the past, and this is actually our first rig that has a 'whole house' filtration system. Now, though, I am very, very glad we have such after seeing how bad the water can be. We rarely ever drink water we're hooked up to when camping, we typically bring our own drinking water (in gallon jugs). Sooo, fortunately we didn't drink any of this water, even filtered. However, we do use the water for showers, washing dishes, etc. Filter did its job as water seemed clear, OK inside.
Also keep in mind with this vehicle (Focus), the towing procedure requires you to disconnect the battery whenever you are towing it. That being the case, you have to reset some things in the car when you unhitch and hook battery back up.
Not disconnecting the battery when towing it can lead to major transmission damage. Do a search, you'll see some cases where that has happened.
This battery disconnect thing was what made us scratch the Focus off our list, did not want to have to mess with disconnecting and re-=connecting the battery every time we tow. 'Tis why we went with a Ford Fusion Hybrid instead. Would recommend you look into such. Much, much easier and more simple to tow, and the mileage is unbeatable.
Its important (and difficult, as already said) when making this comparison, that you truly and as objectively as possible, compare 'apples to apples'.
Its very difficult to compare the two as a true apples to apples comparison, for the reasons already said.
One thing I see very often when making this comparison that completely fouls it up, is folks compare an entry level TT that costs maybe $15-20k brand new, to a $500k top of the line diesel pusher. This approach is why sooo many folks make the asssumption that a MH costs obscenely more than a TT or 5th wheel, when that is NOT necessarily true in all cases. There are some cases where the cost for a MH is not that much greater than what you'd pay for a similar level of quality in a TT and truck.
You must compare entry level with entry level, mid range to mid range, or top of the line to top of the line. New to new, or used to used. Mixing that up, quickly makes the comparison worthless.
As to what the OP specifically asked for, a MH to comparable to a Sprinter 319MKS: I think something like a Fleetwood Bounder, Forest River Georgetown, Thor Hurricane, or Coachmen Mirada model around 36-37' would be the closest you could get. Tough part would be finding a floorplan that is most comparable to that Sprinter 319MKS. The nature of a MH with the cab up front drastically changes the way a floorplan has to be done vs how it is done in a TT or 5er.
What would NOT be a fair comparison, would be any diesel pusher MH, many Winnegago models, or any Tiffin Allegro models. Those would all be considered more of a step up from entry level, whereas the Sprinter TT is basically entry level. Again, we must compare apples to apples.
Anyway, I think you will find that overall the MH usually is a bit more expensive to own and operate, but a LOT depends on just how much MH, quality you must have. You can get into a nice MH for not much more $$ than you'd put in a comparable truck and trailer, as long as you don't have to have a 45' Diesel Pusher with every amenity you can dream up, haha. :)
There are typically more systems on a MH that can potentially require maintenance/repairs, which is why maintenance can be more expensive (hydraulic leveling jacks, built-in generator just to name two). However, as many have already said, you do get a lot more luxury, convenience with that extra cost. You just got to decide, for you, if that luxury and convenience is worth the extra cost.
We've always mounted the break-away actuator in front of or just above the base plate, never below. Can see how putting it below could lead to a problem on some vehicles.
The Kia van we used to have, the breakaway actuator was actually just glued in place with strong epoxy. Was glued to the bumper fascia, was not mounted to the base plate. Worked fine that way, except that it was not easy to get off when I removed the actuator before we traded it. You think about it, the actuator would only get pulled real hard on ONCE at most, after which you'd probably be re-mounting it anyway. Soo, it doesn't have to necessarily be bolted to the frame with 10" titanium bolts. :)
We just traded the van I just spoke of, for same vehicle you have, a 2014 Ford Flex (just last week actually, haha). Am curious to hear how you solve this, as we haven't yet set up the Flex for towing, and not sure yet if we're going to or not. We presently tow my 2013 Ford Fusion, the new Flex will be DW's everyday driver. Very nice car, BTW, we love our new one.
..We just traded one of our vehicles, a Kia Sedona minivan, that is set up for flat towing. It has base plates, tail-light wiring (diodes), as well as a Remco transmission lube pump installed. I removed the Remco lube pump monitor panel from the Motorhome, and am leaving it and the Remco instruction manual with the vehicle. Its been a while since we towed the vehicle (we now have a Ford Fusion we tow), but far as I know, the lube pump, tail light wiring, etc. all works great.
Anyway, this is NOT a 'for sale' post, please do not interpret it that way. I have already signed the paperwork to trade the vehicle and got the tradein allowance $$ for it. I benefit nothing from the dealership re-selling this vehicle.
I'm only mentioning this, to possibly help anyone that may be in the market for such a vehicle around the NC area. If you are looking for a vehicle completely ready to flat tow with 7 passenger seating and don't mind a somewhat used vehicle (2007, 60k miles), might want to give Montgomery Motors Ford in Troy, NC a call. Ask them about the 2007 Kia Sedona they recently took in on trade.
If you are interested in such and want more info about it, please feel free to PM me.
..Reminds me of many, many years ago, when we used to camp with a Dodge Durango and popup trailer. One time when DW was driving, she insisted she could make it through a McDonald's drive-thru. I told her she'd regret it, probably should have stopped her. But, I decided to let her learn the hard way (and hope she didn't tear anything up!)
Anyway, soon as she came around the turn after placing our order, she quickly realized why this was not a good idea, haha. Couldn't quite make the turn without dragging the side of the popup against a wall (she hadn't learned yet to swing wiiiiide in those situations). Fortunately, she stopped and realized it was hopeless (before any damage was done). After several iterations of backing up, re-positioning, and creating quite the show for any on-lookers....Finally, she got it lined up and on through the drive-through without a problem. I remember the employees there having a good laugh about it, too. :)
Neither of us ever tried that again. With the 36' class A we have now, I rarely even try to go into a PARKING LOT of any fast food joint, let alone their drive-thru! Fortunately, don't need to anymore, since we have all the food we need right there in the MH with us. :)
This is another reason why I'd rather pull than push (meaning I'd rather tow a trailer than tow a toad).And how is that any different? Trailers blow tires all the time, far more than people leaving a car in park.
Ya, but when a trailer tire blows it will not grind down the wheel and half the suspension!
...Let it go long enough, being totally oblivious like this guy was, and it most certainly will. Or even worse, with a large trailer, could cause it to flip or jack-knife resulting in a much bigger disaster.
..Not to mention, with RV trailers you instead get to deal with ST tires frequently made in China (you know, CHINA BOMB tires) that can and will blow up ANYTIME, ANYWHERE, even when just a few years old. MH tires as well as the tires on any TOAD, don't have that problem, and will last for many years (provided you take care of them and don't do something crazy like this guy did, haha).
I'll take my MH with its heavy duty truck tires and toad with passenger (or LT) rated tires over ANY truck and RV trailer with ST China bomb tires, any day of the week and twice on Sunday. :)
Agree with so many others, no way I'd sign what he is asking for. Like already said, that amounts to a 'blank check' warranty for him.
At the same time, though, you can't be too 'hard-ball' about it, or you may end up losing a good chance to sell your RV for a good price.
I would offer this as a 'counter-offer': OK, we'll have your mechanic inspect it at your location (2 hours away). I'll bring the RV there for the inspection, provided that you (potential buyer) pay for the gas to bring it there and back, regardless whether sale is made or not.
And, I would make sure to get the gas $$ from him BEFORE his mechanic gets to see it. Maybe agree to meet him at a gas station, where he will pay for you to fill it back up with an agreed upon amount of fuel before going to your mechanic? This way, if he backs out for whatever reason after inspection, you're guaranteed that you won't be out anything but some time.
Not sure about your RV you are selling, but mine, a 2 hour trip and 2 hours back, would burn up quite a bit of fuel. I would not want to 'eat' that cost, unless I was pretty certain it was going to result in a sale.
Yep, we just replaced the paper thin mattress that came with ours, too. Hated that thing. We had been using a memory foam topper on it, which helped, but also made it sleep very, very warm, uncomfortably so. Haha, I had to set the thermostat to 71 degrees just to keep from burning up.
Replaced the paper thin mattress and foam topper with an Orthopedic pillow top mattress we had specially ordered from Original Mattress Company. Got it a few months ago, just before camping season started. Was not cheap, but man, what a HUGE difference! We've been out twice with it this season, and we both sleep much, much better when camping now. Its almost more comfortable than our bed at home, haha. :)
Only complaint I get from DW: New mattress is pretty thick, and sits up a little higher than she is used to. Small price to pay, though, for having a mattress that sleeps so much more comfortably.
Why would you buy something you can`t tow? knowing you have an RV and you need a toad, would have been a big time requirement when looking at cars.
Not much you can do without a full car trailer. and those little dollies are not meant for extended use.
Well let's see...I put over 20,000 miles on my daily driver. Twoing doesn not even equate to 10% of that.........
..Very well said, Brian, all of it. Your situation shows why it does not always necessarily make sense to get a car that is flat towable, and spend all the $$ to set it up for such. No doubt flat towing is the easiest and most preferred method, but sometimes it just ain't realistic or practical.
Like I've said before: Not Everyone wants (or can afford) to buy a Jeep, Honda CRV, or a manual shift vehicle to allow for flat towing. Sometimes, life circumstances, finances, needs, preferences, etc. can require that we find a way to make it work with something else that may not be easily flat towable.
Brian, I definitely understand your predicament. Tough to justify buying a car specifically for towing, when it will spend such a tiny percentage of its lifetime being towed.
As many have said, using dollies like tow trucks use is probably not going to be a good option. And, since you said you don't want to modify the car, that rules out options like a Remco lube pump or driveshaft disconnect.
There is one other flat towing alternative you may want to look into, that is a bit unusual and not usually done, although some do such and swear it works great: Leave the toad vehicle's engine running, idling when towing it, throw the tranny in neutral and tow it that way. Engine running keeps tranny lubricated, so you could, in theory, tow it all day all you wanted with no limits, as long as engine stays running OK.
I know this has been done successfully with FWD vehicles, but not sure if it could be done with AWD? Only question with AWD would be if the transfer case would be getting the lubrication it needs when towing this way?
The other 'cons' to this approach you need to think about are:
1. You have no way of monitoring the toad's engine 'vitals' when towing, and could do some major damage if engine develops overheating or other condition or stalls out and you don't know. However, I think you could take care of that by setting up some kind of wireless camera pointing at your toad's dashboard, and the monitor for such up on the dash in your Motorhome.
2. Miles will be logged on your Subaru when towing
3. You will burn a bit extra fuel, since Subaru will be idling whole time you tow it.
With this approach (assuming it will work OK with an AWD Subaru), you would not have to modify your Subaru hardly at all, and could flat tow it pretty much as it is. May well be worth the extra mileage and extra fuel burned, to be able to tow your Subaru without having to modify it or fool with a trailer or dolly.
Anyway, just wanted to throw that out as one other thing to maybe look into, as I'm not seeing much other alternative for you given your circumstances. Trying to help a fellow North Carolina guy, too. :)
Nobody will like my advice on this and I'll probably get flamed on this, but here goes anyway:
Our solution to this issue is simple: We don't bring the four-legged pets with us when camping, ever.
They either stay at a friends, get boarded, or stay at the house and we hire a pet-sitter to come by every so often to check on and play with them (usually the latter). We find this is much, MUCH easier and less stressful on all involved.
Bringing them along just causes way too many difficulties that we do not want to deal with (most of which have already been mentioned in this thread).
I know I'm in the minority, and I know a lot of RV owners get an RV specifically so they can take their pets with them. That is not us, though. I like the freedom of not having to worry about the pets when we travel.