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 > Your search for posts made by 'willald' found 46 matches.

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RE: Bunkhouse class A questions

Most of them, the beds are very close in length to the same as the length of a typical RV mattress (around 72"). Length isn't the issue with adults sleeping in these bunks, though, the issue is headroom, and how thin the mattresses usually are. And, of course, you add any to the mattress with a pad or whatever, and you're taking away from the headroom. Anyway, its doable with most I think, but the bigger, heavier the adult, the more the thin mattress may be an issue and result in sore backs the next morning.
willald 01/18/18 02:45pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Question about toad diode wiring

I use the magnetic lights, but with a slight twist: The lights sit, permanently, INSIDE the car, on the rear shelf behind rear seat head rests. Wires for such are easily hidden, go down into trunk, and are then wired under the car to the connector in front. Never have to take them out or put them in, because they aren't in the way where they are and aren't a problem when driving the car normally. They stay where they are, permanently. And, a small piece of velcro on the bottom of them, makes them stick in place on the shelf back there just fine. Its sort of a way of having the best of all worlds. Don't have to touch any of the wiring for the car, nor have to drill any holes or install separate lights, but still have a solution that stays in place, ready to go, all the time. And, very cheap, too. Only cost is for the magnetic lights themselves ($20), and some wire to the front of the vehicle. All of which easily transfers to the next vehicle, too.
willald 12/20/17 07:10am Dinghy Towing
RE: Lets talk about the diff between 19.5 and 22.5's on Gassers

I've driven rigs with both 19.5 and 22.5" tires. Difference in ride, handling is negligible. As already said, the better ride is probably much more because of the weight of the coach, not because of the tire size. Really, in many cases you don't have much of a choice, anyway. Once a coach gets beyond a certain weight, size range, its going to have 22.5" tires to safely handle the weight. You really don't have a choice when you go beyond a certain point, weight wise. One thing I really, really like about our coach and its 19.5" tires: They are soooo much easier to work with, if you ever want to remove a tire or change one yourself! Literally, I can change one by myself, with only simple tools - bottle jack, right size wrench/socket, and a 'breaker bar' to bust the lug bolts loose and help move the tire around once its off. Thats it. You won't do that with a 22.5" tire, without much more expensive (and not very portable) tools, and just about needing two people to do it. Also, if you ever decide to carry a spare, you can do so muuuch easier with 19.5" wheels/tires than 22.5". With that said, tire size wouldn't be a deal breaker for me either way, provided the tires are sized correctly for the weight involved. I would just accept that if I one day decide to step up to a bigger, heavier coach, part of the price for that would be I'd have to deal with more expensive, more difficult to work with, 22.5" tires.
willald 12/20/17 06:56am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Diesel more sluggish than gas?

You need to take a new Super Duty for a drive then get back to me on this........ I have, and I agree, those things unloaded, are quick. My BIL has one (fairly new F250 with the 6.7 diesel), and that thing is cool. However, we're not talking about unloaded pickup trucks with 400 horsepower and 800+ ft-lbs of torque. Thats not what the original poster asked about. The question was if diesel pusher MOTORHOMES are sluggish. And, that's the question I answered. If you recall what I said previously, I kinda covered the whole unloaded diesel pickup thing: ....No, what I drove was not underpowered, it was just, sluggish accelerating, like most diesel are unless they've been modified, or are totally unloaded (pickup trucks not towing)..... Will
willald 10/13/17 08:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Diesel more sluggish than gas?

I will say I 100% believe your seat of the pants evaluation, and here's why; noise sounds and feels fast. Meaning, I think you'll find the V10 isn't as fast as it feels and the diesel isn't as slow as it feels. The excessive noise of the V10 makes it feel fast, the quietness of the diesel makes it feel slow. Our current MH is actually quick off the line, but you have to pay attention. Diesels are drive-by-wire so there is a slight delay from the time you step on it until it reacts. Once it reacts you're all good. Good point, and I thought the same thing for a while. That may be the case with some rigs, but I am one that pays very close attention to acceleration, and I'm here to tell you, my experience is that diesels just do not accelerate the same, they are slower getting up to speed. Definitely true that once it gets up to speed a diesel is muuuuch better at holding that speed on hills or whatever. No argument there. However, strictly in terms of acceleration and throttle response (which is what the original poster was asking)...Diesels fall flat on their face every time, when you really step on it. Think of it this way: How many drag racers, where acceleration is most important thing, use diesel? Oh yeah, your info on the exhaust brake is a bit flawed too. Yes, some only have an exhaust brake, many have a true Jake Brake. Look up the differences. The gassers only have a transmission brake. The engine itself isn't controlling it, the transmission is. Actually, your info there is a little flawed, too. Gassers use vacuum in the intake to slow things down (and compression in the cylinders to some extent). The engine itself is doing the braking. There is no braking done in the tramsmission. Yes, the transmission when in tow/haul mode will down shift more when going down hill, forcing the engine to turn more RPMs, which means the engine generates more stopping power. Bottom line, though, is its the engine doing the braking, not the transmission. Either way, I'm glad you're happy with yours and it's serving you well. Ditto. My intention is not to 'dog' anyone else's coach, as someone else implied I was. I was just answering the specific question the original poster asked, based on my experience. That's all, its not anything personal. :) Will
willald 10/12/17 01:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Diesel more sluggish than gas?

the gasser has much, much better, quicker throttle response. I like that. If that makes u happy so be it but let me tell you the superior construction,handling, air ride suspension ,engine Brake, overall larger size of a diesel pusher and super quite interior even under acceleration far far far exceeds the one small inconsequential factor of your so called throttle response !! and on a steep loaded mountain climb my 40 ft 450HP ISL will kill your crappy little ford 320HP ford system and I can clearly hear the radio on low volumn LOL No need to get all 'testy' and boastful. I don't disagree with any of that (except the last sentence...My Ford has 362 horsepower, not 320, haha). However, none of what you boasted about there is what the original poster asked about, is it? Original poster specifically asked if diesels were more sluggish, and I specifically answered that question. That's all. :) Will
willald 10/12/17 01:17pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Diesel more sluggish than gas?

Will, it looks like you have strong feelings about your experience. You drove one diesel coach and now you make that blanket statement? Noooo, I actually have driven several different ones at various times, because DW really wanted (and still wants) one for the other reasons already discussed. The one I alluded to above, was just the most recent, that I remember the most, because it was a very nice one that we really wanted, but I couldn't get past how sluggish it was, like every other diesel I've driven. I've also driven (and rode in) several other diesel powered rigs, not just Motorhomes. And my experience has been the same for all of them - Diesels, in general, are slower to accelerate, because of the very nature of how diesel fuel burns slower than gas. No denying that, really. And I can tell you the motorhome that you drove was UNDERPOWERED! Many times the engine chosen is totally for a price-point. A 39' coach, 33k GVWR with a Cummins ISL9 engine, 380 horsepower, 1150 ft-lbs of torque (and lists for nearly $300k new) is UNDERPOWERED? Ummm, Really? Good gracious, Mr. Mark, does one have to spend nearly 7 figures and get something with a 500 horsepower Detroit diesel to not have an 'underpowered' diesel pusher? :) No, what I drove was not underpowered, it was just, sluggish accelerating, like most diesel are unless they've been modified, or are totally unloaded (pickup trucks not towing). If we were talking about a coach this size with the smaller 6.7 ISB engine with only 360 horsepower and 800 ft lbs of torque, I would agree, underpowered. That was not the case, though. I'm certainly not going to dog a gas coach, all coaches have their place in the RVing world. Agreed, I'm not 'dogging' any coaches, at least that wasn't my intention. The original poster asked a specific question, if diesel pushers were sluggish, and I answered that specific question - based on my experience, YES. I agree, that there is a 'butt for every seat', and diesel pushers definitely have their place and have their advantages. But, they are sluggish compared to a gasser. That is what the original poster asked, and I answered. Thats all. :) Will
willald 10/12/17 01:12pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Diesel more sluggish than gas?

...I know all the diesel owners will disagree, but as one thats driven both....I'm here to tell you, that YES, compared to a fuel injected V10 gas powered motorhome, diesel powered motorhomes are SLLLLLUUUUGGGGIIISSHH. Last time I drove a diesel pusher Motorhome a year or two ago......I walked away totally unimpresed, and muuuuch happier with how my V10 powered gas Motorhome drives. And, this was NOT an underpowered diesel pusher, it had the Cummins ISL 380 hp/1100 ft-lb torque engine on a 39' coach (and was almost brand new, nothing wrong with it). I walked away thinking....Man, is THIS what people swear is sooo great, and worth the extra $100k or more that you pay for it? I don't think so, haha. Yep, I test drove a diesel pusher motorhome with checkbook in hand, and walked away, totally not interested in it. Soo, don't believe that thing about 'don't test drive a diesel pusher with a checkbook in your pocket'. :) Here's the main reason why: When you need to get going quickly with a gasser motorhome, you step on the gas and yes, it gets loud, and it turns some RPMs. However, it gets MOVING. Has great throttle response. You do the same with a diesel powered Motorhome, it grunts, lugs and slooooowly gets up to speed. It can't downshift and get moving quicker like a gasser does, it just has to grunt and lug. Basically, the gasser has much, much better, quicker throttle response. I like that. Oh, and coming down the hills? Put my Torqueshift tranny in tow/haul mode, it downshits, holds the rig to a comfortable speed very well, without hardly touching the brake. And it does so, without having to choke up the exhaust like diesels do. Gasser engines actually are able to provide that 'engine braking' just the way they are, using vacuum generated in the intake. Diesels cannot do that at all without adding a 'Jake Brake' that closes up the exhaust and slows it down with back pressure. They both accomplish the same thing, but I like the way a gasser engine does it better. Just seems like a more natural, easier, more trouble free way to do it. Yes, several other aspects make the diesel pusher more attractive (quieter, more torque for climbing hills, can handle much more weight so more options amenities, often comes with air suspension and brakes, etc). However, strictly from a seat of the pants feel when driving.....I'll take my V10 gasser Motorhome over any diesel, any day of the week and twice on Sunday. And, keep a LOT more of my hard earned $$ in my pocket where it belongs. :)
willald 10/11/17 02:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Towing Toyota Prius

Don't know if getting another vehicle is something you'd consider or not, but if so, and If you like owning a hybrid and want to flat tow, check out Ford's hybrids, the Fusion or Cmax hybrid. They are both flat towable from the factory, and are one of the most simple, easiest to flat toe. No crazy procedures to go through, no need to disconnect battery or any fuses, just throw it in neutral and go. Is IMO a much better hybrid drivetrain design than the Prius, too, as it can run in EV mode all the way up to 80 mph (Prius forces you into gas mode at 35 mph). We've been flat towing our Fusion for nearly 5 years now, it works great.
willald 10/01/17 05:49am Dinghy Towing
RE: First Oil change Miramar V10

I took care of the hard (very hard) to get oil in the fill tube, by taking of the dog house cover inside the MH, and pulling off the oil fill hose. I made up a flex hose aprox 12" long and a cut off trans. funnel clamped together, slip it over the fil nipple on the valve cover and easy in goes the oil. At the same time I can check out all conn ections etc. on the mighty V10. On draining the oil I Have an oil drain pan with two plugs in side, take out the plugs and the old oil goes in side the pan res. container. I rest the oil drain pan on top of the front axel. I hadn't thought of going in from the doghouse to put the new oil in. That's a good idea, think I may try that next time. Thanks for the idea. ?? Was kind of funny to hear original poster talk about how he just did the first oil change. Pretty much everything discussed here in this thread, he talked about dealing with.
willald 09/25/17 08:36pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: First Oil change Miramar V10

I've always changed the oil myself in our V10 Class A, just 'cause its soo much easier to do that one myself in the driveway than to drive it somewhere and have it done. I've found that even though its on a Ford chassis, many Ford dealers do not want to work on it. Neither do many other shops. Its just too big, they don't have the space for it, or a lift capable of raising it up. I typically change it and the generator engine oil at the beginning of every season, usually in February. We never put enough miles on it (or hours on generator) to warrant any more frequent changes than that. Anyway, most of the advice you've got so far here is spot on, except, as already said, 5 quarts will not be enough. Mine uses more like 7 and a half. Yep, the oil pours right over that suspension I beam. Easy to work around that, though. And, getting 7.5 quarts back in it is slow going and can be a little annoying, because of how they have the fill tube positioned. You will want/need a funnel and a good long hose attached to it. If you don't have either, you might still be able to do it by just carefully pouring each 1 quart container in one at a time, but be prepared to clean up some spillage if you have to do it that way. If you get the oil in a big 5 quart container, you will have a very difficult time getting that large contain in place to pour in the filler tube, unless you have the funnel and long hose. Much easier with a funnel and tube. As far as concerns about oil filter being torqued on real tight at the factory: I've dealt with those. Get you the right size oil filter wrench to fit it, the 'socket' type that will go on a ratchet/wrench, and you should be able to get it off. There's plenty of room down there to work the wrench. Worst case, there's always the old 'hammer a screw driver in the side and use it for leverage' trick. Really, changing the oil on a V10 in these things is not that much different than changing it in any other vehicle, so I'd just go ahead and do it yourself. Especially if you're used to changing the oil yourself on your other vehicles.
willald 09/21/17 03:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ford Fiesta ruined transmission questions

I was never sold on the transmission Ford uses in the Focus and Fiesta, for flat towing. Nor was I keen on the idea of having to disconnect the battery every time you flat tow. That pretty much took the Focus and Fiesta off of our list (even before I read of several stories like this that just confirmed it even more). We ended up going with the Ford Fusion hybrid, and have been very happy with it. Just seemed like a much better choice. No need to disconnect battery or anything, no crazy procedures to go through when hooking up. Just throw it in neutral, hook up and go. Not sure all the details of why, but Ford's hybrid drivetrain they use in the Fusion and CMax hybrids lends itself really, really well to flat towing. After over 4 years of use as my daily driver and flat towing (its a 2013 model), nearly 80,000 miles on the Fusion (and probably another 20k worth of flat towing miles)....Car still runs, drives as good as the day I bought it. Only thing its ever needed is routine maintenance (oil changes, etc), a set of tires after like 60k miles, and a (12 volt) battery.
willald 09/18/17 08:25am Dinghy Towing
RE: Installing a bike carrier

Problem with the dual receiver approach you're talking about for carrying bikes, is if you look closely at the documentation that comes with most hitch-mounted bike racks, most are NOT supported, recommended to be used on the back of an RV like that. I seem to recall only finding one or or two that allow that. That, and the other issue you may run into, is that when the bikes are on there, you may not be able to unhitch and fold up the tow bar. Bikes may get in the way. Not sure if that'd be an issue for you, but it was for us and was main reason we chose against that approach. We frequently like to unhitch the towed vehicle and fold up the tow bar before we get to our campsite. That would be really difficult, if you had to remove all the bikes then, too. Also, as already said, you will probably find that there are times you'd like to carry, bring the bikes on your towed vehicle. Sometimes you will want to bring the bikes places you won't want to take the Motorhome. I highly, highly recommend you look into a roof rack, for your towed vehicle. Sooo much better for the bikes, and is very quick and easy to get the bikes up there and to get them back down. Keeps the bikes completely out of the way, too. We went the route of a hitch-mounted bike rack on the rear of the towed vehicle several years ago. Eventually, just got to where we hated that approach, and recently (several months ago) ditched the hitch mounted rack, bit the bullet and got a roof rack. Soooo much better, and really, really wish I would have gone this route from the get-go. Yes, roof racks are not cheap, but well worth it, and you can get a lot of the parts for them via Craigs List, and save a bunch of $$ that way.
willald 08/15/17 11:10am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Possible frame rail, hitch receiver issue..

How much did the repair cost, if you don't mind me asking? Always afraid to answer this, as I know where the discussion can go when $$ gets mentioned. Anyway, was not cheap. However, it was what we agreed to, and about the same as what other places had estimated - $600. This is about what I expected. I know some are going to say, as always when $$ discussion comes up, that I paid too much, this should've been cheaper. Way I look at it, at least I know it was fixed right, by someone that knows just what they are doing and did exact same repair, same way to their Motorhome. That's worth a few $$. And, when you think about some of the horrible disasters that could've happened if this wasn't addressed.... Suddenly $600 seems very, very cheap. Will
willald 08/09/17 10:03am Class A Motorhomes
RE: To Tote a Tote or not to Tote

We have a 25 gallon Barker (4 wheel) tote tank. Have had it for a very long time, about 10 years. Its worked really good for us over the years. Really like the 4 wheel kind, that you tow to the dump station. Makes it very easy to use when you only have to 'pull' it, not lift it when full. Wouldnt want to lift one end of that thing up when its full! Yes, we use ours pretty regularly, as there are a few places we camp regularly that don't have sewer hookups, but have a dump station close by. And, we can fill up the grey tank in just 1 or 2 days of camping (showers fill it up quickly). We probably use it 2 or 3 times a year. Yes, the wheels the Barker tanks (used to) come with, are pitiful. I did the upgrade to the wheels/axles, replace all 4 wheels with real, air-inflated tires/wheels. That was a HUGE improvement. Not long after I and a few others on here did that (wheel upgrade) and talked on here about how we did it, Barker announced their new models that had those wheels/tires from the factory. And, they did it almost exactly how we had. Haha, don't tell me manufacturers don't read these forums and learn from us how to improve their products. :) Only real issue I've had with it over the years, is a small crack in the case right where the dump valve is. I've sealed it a few times with JB weld, but it keeps re-springing that leak every so often. Its only a drip, and we only ever use it for grey water, so I've chosen to pretty much live with it. As some have already said, you definitely have to think about the places you'll camp, how you'll camp, etc., before buying one of these. For a lot of people, they wouldnt be very useful. I like the idea some talk about, about putting the tank up on a pickup bed or something and pumping the water into it. That'd make it even easier to use. Need to think about storage, too, as these things can get huge depending on what size you get. The 25 gallon tank we have, just barely fits in the trunk of our towed vehicle we bring (Ford Fusion). Any bigger, and we'd have an issue. Thats part of why we went with 25 gallon. On both the last RV we had (TT) and the present one (Motorhome), the 25 gallon tank just fit where we wanted it, and going any bigger would force me to store it somewhere else where I didn't want to put it.
willald 08/08/17 09:19am General RVing Issues
RE: Possible frame rail, hitch receiver issue..

Backed into a steel pillar? no matter, fix it, use grade 8 bolts, torqued properly and use Locktite. HUH? I'm having a hard time following that one, also. I *think*, Passin Thru is suggesting this damage was caused by backing into something really solid, and that the hitch receiver took the full brunt of the impact of backing into something solid. Would be just about impossible to do that without other parts of the back end hitting and being damaged much worse (fiberglass end cap, bumper, etc.) I would've known if that happened, haha. :) Will
willald 08/07/17 07:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Possible frame rail, hitch receiver issue..

interesting ;;looks good ;; If I was doing it I would have ran a 3 inch strap down from top to bottom on the inside at the end of the frame rail area also Yes, there's several different ways to fix this, and probably several ways more could be added to make it even stronger. Way I look at it, though: The way he did it, is same as what he did on his motorhome, and he tows much more weight than I ever plan to. And he has done so for years without any issues. Soooo, I'm happy with how this was fixed. :) Will
willald 08/06/17 02:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Possible frame rail, hitch receiver issue..

Update: Well, Friday morning I dropped the Motorhome off at Holbert trailers, they set to work on it. Basically, removed the receiver, straightened out the frame, then welded on a very substantial 'sleeve', about 2 feet long, to the end of each frame rail. Then, of course, put the receiver back on with new, much more stout bolts. It looks VERY solid, the metal sleeves are a thicker steel, substantially thicker, than even the original frame rails. I took some pictures; They don't show very well how thick, solid this is, but here goes: Looking from the outside of each frame rail: http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss154/willald/RV%20stuff/Georgetown%20351DS/9B24AE60-111E-4DB3-9F57-691F7832FCA3_zpsvbawfd4o.jpg http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss154/willald/RV%20stuff/Georgetown%20351DS/D4202440-C672-4B9D-8038-007CFA768396_zpsed78tqlm.jpg ..From inside: http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss154/willald/RV%20stuff/Georgetown%20351DS/1622D591-BBF1-41B2-9A72-53A8E1E5B94A_zpsi2p3jkyh.jpg http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss154/willald/RV%20stuff/Georgetown%20351DS/515646E5-A81D-47A4-8973-9EA82EBEFE81_zpshokfs7bq.jpg I was a little nervous about the wiring back there, as I know I had kind of a mess back there. I had once wired up a 6 round plug that we used with the van that had the Remco lube pump. Then later, wired in a 2nd 6 round plug for the Fusion. They had to take the receiver off, and take all that wiring loose, and re-do all of it. Not only did they put it all back exactly as it was (already verified that wiring works perfectly with the toad), but they actually cleaned it up, made it look much better than I had it! He (Raleigh Jr, the owner) showed me pictures of his Motorhome, and the quads he pulls on a flat trailer behind it (he is into hard core off-roading from what I can tell, cool stuff). He fixed this same issue with his Motorhome the same way he did mine, and he pulls stuff MUUCH heavier than I do. I believe him, when he says I'll never have a problem with this, ever again. :) Anyway, I am very happy, impressed with the work they did. Very professional, friendly, family run business, and they did a great job, and I highly recommend them (Holbert Trailers to anyone in the Charlotte, NC area that needs any work like this done. Was not cheap, but well worth it, to have the work done by someone that clearly knew exactly what they were doing and had considerable experience at it. Now, next thing I'm going to do, is contact Forest River like discussed earlier, point them to this thread, so at least they know about this issue. Like said before, if my somewhat convervative use of the trailer hitch caused this, I bet there are LOT of Motorhomes out there with twisted frames in the back, that owners may or may not know about. Thanks again to all, for your comments, suggestions on this. :)
willald 08/06/17 12:47pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Possible frame rail, hitch receiver issue..

I bet the frame was already bent when the Motorhome was made how long do you have it and And was it like this before or is this the first time you were looking under it No, I remember looking under it a lot when we first bought it, checking it out. I would've noticed that. Was also under it back there a lot when was wiring the connector for towing the car. If it was like that from the beginning, I would've known. Anyway, I haven't had time to upload photos and post yet, but this is fixed. Holbert trailers did a great job of fixing this Friday, by welding on a 'sleeve' over the last 2 feet or so of the frame. Very stout 'sleeve', too, it looks to be made of steel almost twice as thick as the frame itself! Will post pictures and talk more about this later, when have some time (very busy weekend..) Will
willald 08/06/17 05:16am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Possible frame rail, hitch receiver issue..

Update: Well, looks like this is getting fixed tomorrow (Friday). Met with Raleigh, from Holbert Trailers. Really, really impressed with this group. Family owned operation, been in business for 30 years, nothing but glowing reviews from everyone thats ever dealt with them. Talked with the guy about it for a good hour or two, sent him the photos, etc. He knows this problem very well - He owns a Class A Motorhome himself, had same issue and had to fix it on his. Has been doing welding, truck frame repairs on big rigs for a looooong time, very obviously knows what he is doing. Even offered to come pick up the Motorhome from our house, take it to his shop, and return it after repairs were done, for no extra charge (although we ain't going to let him do that, I got too many trust issues to allow that, haha). Anyway, he is basically going to take off the receiver/hitch, straighten out the C channel, weld in a piece to basically box in the frame for last few feet and make it muuuuch stronger, then bolt the eceiver back on. He guaranteed we will never, ever have this problem again after he finishes with it. I've decided to go with Holbert Trailers, due to fact they are considerably closer to us, and because he has done this exact repair on his own Motorhome, he knows Motorhomes. That alone makes me feel much better about him doing this work. The looooong standing reputation they have for quality work in the community and being a great, family run operation, went a long way, too. Sooo, tomorrow, I bringing it to him early in the morning, and he promises to have it done by the end of the day. Am really glad to be getting this taken care of, and doing so before we tow anything again. We have two more trips planned for this 'season', and glad they'll both be with this frame issue fixed. :) On another note: Thinking back some, I think we know how this happened, and it may well have had nothing to do with scraping when backing in the driveway. Some time ago, we were coming home from Myrtle Beach, There is one particular bump/hump on route 151 in McBee, SC, that I had forgot about, and hit the wrong way. I had slowed down drastically for it, but apparently not enough. That hump shook and rocked the Motorhome soooo HARD, felt like entire MH almost got airborn. Came down and bottomed out soo hard, Angie (DW) swore it felt like entire coach had hit the ground. Jerked and snapped the toad around sooo bad, the 4 bikes we were carrying on the back of toad on a hitch mounted bike rack, jerked so hard it warped and bent up the trunk (bike rack had straps attached to lip of trunk). Ended up having to have the trunk lid replaced (fortunately insurance covered that one). As a result of that incident, we now carry bikes on a roof rack on top of the toad. Would not surprise me at all if that massive bump/jolt, jerked the toad, hitch receiver soo hard, it caused the (weak, poorly designed) frame rail to bend, twist where the hitch receiver attaches to it. Anyway, will try and post some pictures of this after the repairs are done tomorrow, so everyone will know how this one ends. Thanks for all the responses, suggestions, etc. :) Will
willald 08/03/17 08:53am Class A Motorhomes
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