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 > Your search for posts made by 'willald' found 190 matches.

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RE: Towing a minivan on a dolly

We towed a Kia minivan on a tow dolly for a while. One of the big problems you have with towing a minivan on a dolly, has to do with weight limitations. Minivans are heavy, many weigh well over 4,000 lbs, some close to 5,000. There's only a handful of tow dollies made that are rated to handle that much weight. Also, many Motorhomes, the weight limit on the hitch receiver is 5,000 lbs. Add the weight of a tow dolly to a minivan that in some cases is getting close to 5,000 lbs by itself, and you frequently will find yourself over that 5,000 lb limitation of the MH's hitch receiver. Also, as already noted, width and fender clearance can be an issue. I agree with a previous post - The Acme EZE tow dolly is probably one of the best choices if you are going to tow a minivan on a dolly. Thats what we used, and it worked great. It is one of the few dollies out there that is rated to handle 5,000 lbs, yet only weighs about 400 lbs. That, and the way its designed, pretty well eliminates issues with fender clearance, taking sharp turns, etc.
willald 02/08/16 02:39pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tire Installer in Charlotte NC?

Try Clark tire just west of Charlotte in Gastonia, nc. They handle large truck tires, should be able to take care of it for you. Good guys to work with there.
willald 02/02/16 06:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: SMI Air Force One Brake system?? or other brake systems?

...For a system that can be easily used on two different vehicles, that will be much, much more budget friendly than any of the systems already mentioned, look no further than the Readybrake. Just can't beat it, IMO - Simple (one time) installation in towed vehicle of nothing more than a cable from brake pedal up to front bumper, only costs $60 more for same cable to install on a second vehicle, so you can tow either vehicle and use the Readybrake system. Simple, no-nonsense, no electronics cable operated system that simply works. Costs SIGNIFICANTLY less than the other systems mentioned, will work on almost any vehicle including hybrids (unlike M&G). And, almost all parts to it that could wear out eventually, could be found at any hardware store for less than $20 (and easily installed by the owner, no need for expensive labor). No need to wait weeks for the company to send you replacement parts like is the case for most any other brake system. Now, it doesn't give braking quite as smooth and truly proportional as an air operated system like AF1 or M&G that works directly off of the MH's air brake system. If you have a MH equipped with full air brakes, M&G or AF1 is probably the best option (although much more expensive than something like Readybrake). However, if you have a gas coach or one that doesnt have full air brakes, then the Readybrake makes a lot more sense, IMO.
willald 01/12/16 02:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Trading in the DP for a Gas....uh oh

..Actually, compared to your older DP you have now, the new one you're looking at with a gasser V10 will probably feel like a drag racer, hahahaha! Seriously, a gasser engine like the V10 has much better 'throttle response' than a diesel. Especially compared to an older diesel like you have. You step on the accelerator, the V10 will respond appropriately and get moving. A diesel will just grunt and lug. Since it can't drop down a gear and turn higher RPMs like a gasser can, it can't give you the quicker acceleration a gasser can. In terms of acceleration from a dead stop and immediate throttle response, even in a big 40' unit like that, the gasser will feel much quicker. Especially when compared to an older diesel like yours. Now, like already said, once you get in the moutains and go up a long, steep grade, it will probably be a different story. That is where the diesel shines. If everything else about the unit you're looking at checks out (quality, floorplan, etc), I would not let the concern over the engine type, drivetrain concern you. You will be happy with it.
willald 01/04/16 06:44am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Lincoln mkx 2016

FWIW, Ford's hybrid vehicles, the Ford Fusion Hybrid and C-max hybrid are fully flat towable from the factory, and have a rock solid, proven, reliable track record for such. People have been towing them for years without a problem. I also believe that is the case for the Lincoln MKZ hybrid. Sooo, not really accurate to say that Ford doesn't have a flat towable model anymore. They most certainly do, with their hybrid vehicles.
willald 12/30/15 08:29am Dinghy Towing
RE: 2004 F53 6.8L V-10 Catalytic Converter Replacement

Not that I'm condoning not replacing the catalytic converter, just pointing out that from a legality standpoint, original poster may well not have anything to worry about. Will If you wanted to point out the legality, you would have said it's a Federal offense to remove a catalytic converter. Doesn't matter what happens in any city, county, or state. Agreed, but he didn't remove it, a thief did. :) I bet its illegal to remove and steal a catalytic converter, too. :) Will
willald 12/29/15 04:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2004 F53 6.8L V-10 Catalytic Converter Replacement

Is the part necessary? most states require annual emmission testing on vehicles ..But not on a vehicle built on a truck chassis like this, with a GVWR well over 10,000 lbs. Not that I'm condoning not replacing the catalytic converter, just pointing out that from a legality standpoint, original poster may well not have anything to worry about. Will
willald 12/29/15 11:28am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A Gas or Diesel

Heres one thing I have noticed over my entire lifetime.When a person simply can not afford a certain product and has to settle for a lessor they simply hate the one they cant afford and will find umpteen reasons they would never buy such a item. Very true, Don, I've seen same thing many times. Tis human nature, I suppose, the ol' fox and sour grapes thing. HOWEVER, my previous post relating my experience, opinion on a diesel pusher, is NOT AT ALL related to what I can or can't afford. The unit I was looking at was within our reach financially. $$ didn't really enter into it much this time. The extreme sluggish feel and lack of throttle response when hitting the accelerator, did. :) Also, the flip-side to your point is also true, Don: Those that spend significantly more $$ on one choise over another, will religiously defend their choice to the very end, swear its the best thing since sliced bread, to justify in their own head why they chose to spend so much more $$. Not ALWAYS the case, but again, it is human nature. Will on the flip side of the flip side.You may beat my 450ISL off the line but going up a long 5-6% grade I will leave u in the dust ..Possibly, but all depends on a lot of factors. Not the least of which is, who is loading down the heaviest, and just how hard each of us is willing to push it. When my V10 drops down several gears and starts 'roaring' at 'bout 6,000 RPMs....It can pull us up long, steep grades every bit as fast as I want it to. :) but mine is not sluggish off the line? not sure what your test drive one was up to I wondered same thing, if one I was driving may have had something wrong with it. But, I kept thinking, surely a brand new Cummins ISL 380 HP/1150 torque diesel shouldn't already have something wrong with it, robbing it of any horsepower?? I'd hope not! I just kept thinking, man, with 380 horsepower, thats all the umph its got?! Good gracious, this sluggishness would drive me insane, haha. :) Will
willald 12/23/15 12:38pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A Gas or Diesel

Wow.....this thread is really all over the place. "donfrump" brings up a good point about people making disparaging remarks about something they can't afford. This really makes their opinion useless because it's so slanted. Agreed, but as I just noted to Don, what I described was not 'slanted' really at all, 'cause I was able to afford the diesel pusher we were looking at. This was a 2015 unit that was just about to turn a year old, had been a demo unit, so they just knocked over $100k off the price. It was within our reach, financially, but it ain't in our driveway, 'cause I don't like that lack of throttle response. :) Large displacement diesels in motor homes and semi's are not designed to have the "pedal put to the floor". When you do that with a diesel, it will fall on it's face. Yep, indeed they will, which is why I prefer my V10 gasser, and the 'roar' and immediate throttle response I get when I put the pedal down on it. I like knowing that the engine can do that, and can get the unit moving quickly, if I need it to. Really exasperating to me to push down on the pedal and nothing really happens but a lot of grunting. I realize, these are massive RVs and not meant to be drag racers. However, I still prefer an engine with some throttle response that can get things moving quickly if the need arises (like, merging onto a freeway, getting out of someone's way that isn't paying attention, etc). They're designed to have the power rolled on. If you roll it on slowly, it will accelerate like other motor homes. Right, because diesel burns slower than gas, and as a result, a diesel engine will struggle to accelerate as quickly as a gasser can. A gasser can drop down a gear, briefly turn 5000 RPMs and really get you accelerating quickly. That is something a diesel will never be able to do. It can't downshift, all it can do is grunt and grind along in high gear, low RPMs. Results in better mileage and longer life, possibly, but takes away ability to accelerate quickly like a gasser can. If you drive down a smooth highway at 65 mph, both a gas motor home and a diesel will ride smoothly. If the road is full of potholes, both a gasser and a diesel will ride roughly. The diesel may absorb the shock a little better because of the size and weight, but you'll still feel it. I had a gas motor home with the 8.1 Workhorse and it was a diesel eater. I could blow by most diesels on any grade. Now, the noise was horrendous in the cab, even after adding a lot of installation, but you only climb grades during about 5% of your travels, so not a big deal. A diesel is more complicated to operate and maintain, but can haul and tow more weight. You need to decide what you want to do your coach, how often you'll use it and do you have a need for a diesel. Modern day gassers are very capable and probably the best choice for those who don't do more than 8-10K in miles every year. My sister just took delivery of a new Fleetwood Southwind today. They were done dealing with the complexity of a diesel pusher. It's actually 4" longer than the diesel they sold and is just as nicely outfitted. Good luck on your search. The lines between a diesel and a gasser have really been blurred so it's a tough choice. ..With all that, I agree. Especially how the lines between the two have really blurred and made the choice tougher. :) Will
willald 12/23/15 12:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A Gas or Diesel

Heres one thing I have noticed over my entire lifetime.When a person simply can not afford a certain product and has to settle for a lessor they simply hate the one they cant afford and will find umpteen reasons they would never buy such a item. Very true, Don, I've seen same thing many times. Tis human nature, I suppose, the ol' fox and sour grapes thing. HOWEVER, my previous post relating my experience, opinion on a diesel pusher, is NOT AT ALL related to what I can or can't afford. The unit I was looking at was within our reach financially. $$ didn't really enter into it much this time. The extreme sluggish feel and lack of throttle response when hitting the accelerator, did. :) Also, the flip-side to your point is also true, Don: Those that spend significantly more $$ on one choise over another, will religiously defend their choice to the very end, swear its the best thing since sliced bread, to justify in their own head why they chose to spend so much more $$. Not ALWAYS the case, but again, it is human nature. Will
willald 12/23/15 11:42am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A Gas or Diesel

The Ford V10, especially the newer ones with 3 valve per cylinder heads (anything after 2006), has PLENTY of power and will work fine. 362 horsepower and 457 foot-pounds of torque is plenty, and will do what you ask it to do. Will get a little loud when you work it hard, and it will turn a lot of RPMs, but that is exactly what Ford designed it to do, and it will do it just fine. Very strong motor. We have a 36' MH on a Ford V10 chassis, have had it for 3 years (bought it new in 2012 - see signature). We travel pretty much everywhere we want with it, including mountains. It does whatever we ask of it. I recently (2 weeks ago) took a new diesel pusher for a test drive, as we were toying with the idea of upgrading. It was a 2015 40' Fleetwood Discovery, with the Cummins ISL 380 horsepower, 1150 ft-lb torque diesel. I am here to tell you, I am simply NOT impressed with the diesel at all. A couple times, just to get a feel for it, I put the pedal to the floor just to see if all this hype I've heard about diesel power was true. I was sorely disappointed. You step on a gas engine like a V10, it responds appropriately - it gets loud, and gets MOVING. You step on the diesel, it does almost nothing - it just grunts, lurks, and sloooooowly accelerates. Won't downshift and get moving like a gasser V10 will. No throttle response whatsoever, at least not like what I'm used to (and prefer) with gassers. And, this was with a brand spanking new very powerful diesel, a Cummins ISL 380 horsepower. Many diesel pushers have considerably less power than that, especially older ones. Yes, the diesel pusher rides much smoother, handles better with the air suspension, and is much quieter with the engine in the back. But, the huuuuuge price tag that comes with, coupled with how much more complicated it is with all the air systems, then add to that the horrible (non-existent) throttle response of the diesel......Sorry, I'll keep my gasser V10 MH, and its much smaller bank note, and much better throttle response. :) They say once you drive a diesel, you'll never go back, and not to test drive a diesel pusher with your checkbook in your pocket, as you'll buy it on the spot. Well, I'm here to tell you, neither are necessarily true. Some of us, even after having tried both, prefer our gasser V10 rigs. :)
willald 12/23/15 07:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: MagneShade Owners

Agree with previous posters - if you encounter a wind strong enough to pull a magneshade off, you have much, much more serious issues to worry about. Due to the way Magneshade is designed (mesh material, VERY strong magnets holding it at several places onto windshield), it is very, very difficult for wind to ever pull one off. We bought a Magneshade for our MH as soon as we got the MH home, back in 2012. Been 3 years now, and its always worked great. Wind has never even budged it, and we camp frequently at the beach where there are some pretty strong winds. You really can't beat it - Goes on and off very easily and quickly without having to climb up on anything, no ugly snaps to deal with, completely transparent from inside, yet very effective at blocking sun light and heat. I wouldn't want to camp with a MH in a lot of sunlight without one. As for the theft risk: You leave a magneshade on a MH when its parked in storage, you kinda are asking for it, not much mercy for anyone that does that. Ours stays folded up in a storage bin when we're not camping. The magneshade only comes out and goes on when we're camping. Never had or heard of a theft of these happening, when a MH is at a campground, camping.
willald 12/22/15 11:36am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Leaking inner dual tire, need help finding leak

This post is few months LATE on this thread. But interesting reading because recently I had to deal with an elusive leak from one of my tires... ... ...Or so I thought. Found myself blaming the tire, & then blaming a defective(?) Borg Valve Stem, & then seriously hating on the tire repair shop for not trying hard enough to find the problem. Turned out to be the damaged WHEEL that was the culprit. A tiny break in the weld seam caused by TOO MANY BAD POTHOLES along a certain stretch of interstate road in a certain other state. (Oh yeah. I remembered it well). Just another case of my tax dollars NOT working hard enough – soon enough! In my case, the cost of a new wheel was actually less than paying for a new tire. And btw IF it’s not too late, & you’re still bent on getting more service from that tire they say is un-repairable... ... ... Go "the old school route" & put an inner tube inside, & keep it rolling as a spare! Wow, yes, a bit late on this one. :) New tire last March fixed this problem (although was a very expensive fix!) Have watched the tire pressures very closely all year, leaking stopped after replacing the tire. I kept the old tire for several weeks, hoping to find someone that would repair it so I could keep it as a spare. Took it to at least a half dozen different tire places, asking if they would repair it. All said same thing - no way, cut is too close to the sidewall. Sooo, eventually disposed of it, its long gone now. Hadn't thought about putting an innner tube inside it so it could be used as a spare. Its all 'water under the bridge' now, but can you even get an inner tube that would fit, work for this size tire? I wouldnt think you could, given that they havent used inner tubes on this kind of tire in the last what, 30 years or so?
willald 12/22/15 09:40am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Question for thos using Ready Brake

..I use a ReadyBrake Elite tow bar with the integrated braking system as well. Have used it on two different toads, it has worked great on both of them. Yes, the way NSA has you install it, wiring the dashboard light to work of the ReadyBrake actuator....Well, is not very useful. You really, really need it to tell you when the toad brakes are engaging, not when the readybrake actuator moves. Sooo, I too, wired the dash light to the toad's brake light. Is very, very handy, to know precisely when you toad brakes engage and when they disengage. I would not want to tow a vehicle without such. You really need an indicator like this, regardless what type of brake system you are using. NSA used to instruct you to wire up their dash light that way, to the toad brake lights. However, they changed that to the way it is now some time ago. As I understand it, it was changed because so many toads require you to pull fuses or disconnect the battery, which in many cases would make it difficult to wire the dash indicator to work off of toad brake lights.
willald 11/26/15 08:54pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Lube pumps for towing

..Regardless what you decide, there are a few important things to consider, when reading all the posts from people that claim to have seen 'failures' of lube pumps, and won't use one as a result: Yes, a lube pump is one more thing that can go wrong. HOWEVER, contrary to what you read from some folks, 99% of the time when/if a Remco lube pump fails, you are NOT going to fry a transmission, as long as everything was initially installed correctly. Worst case, you might be 'inconvenienced' for a while (have to drive toad separately) until issue is resolved, but that is about it. It is a 'myth' some folks have started, that a Remco pump failure will fry a transmission. Does not really happen anymore, with the new design Remco uses. That 'myth' probably started several years ago back when that was indeed a risk. Its not so much anymore, with the monitor panel/box Remco uses. Remco provides a monitor/control box for the pump that mounts to dash of your Motorhome. It connects to the lube pump, and to a pressure sensor on output side of the lube pump. If pressure drops, or pump stops (or is not) running, you get a loud beeping and red light coming on to let you know something is wrong. As long as you pull over within a few miles and quit towing until the issue is resolved, you are NOT going to hurt your transmission. Regardless what all the doom-preachers say, haha. :) Also, something else nobody really talks about, when it comes to a Remco transmission pump: They (Remco) are confident enough in their product, that THEY provide a warranty for your transmission, that will cover the cost of repair/replacement to such for 40,000 miles from the time you install a Remco pump on it. Soo, there is at least some security there, that you will be covered in the case of a total (and highly unlikely) disaster. To answer your other specific questions: No, Remco pump will NOT necessarily work for any/all automatic transmission vehicles. You'll have to go to their web page and look your specific vehicle up on their web site to see if they have a model that will work for the vehicle you have or are considering. As to warranty being voided: As I already said, Remco provides their own warranty for their product, and your transmission. However, if you do have a transmission failure, there is the chance that the vehicle manufacturer will use the lube pump as an excuse to refuse to cover the transmission repair. However, I seriously, seriously doubt, all things considered, if this has EVER happened. We used a Remco lube pump for a while, on a Kia minivan we used to tow. It worked fine for the most part, once we straightened out some mistakes made with installation (dealer that did installation got to take care of those). Ultimately we quit towing that vehicle 'cause we got one that was easier and simpler to tow, a Ford Fusion Hybrid. However, I'd have no problem going with a lube pump again, if we ever wanted to flat tow a vehicle that could not be towed any other way.
willald 11/23/15 12:26pm Dinghy Towing
RE: IF Class A pusher needs to be towed off highway

Yes, if you're going to use a tow dolly, you really, really should have a hitch receiver installed on your toad, so it can drag the dolly around when need be. There are lots of various situations where you will want/need that option, not just in the event of a tow.
willald 11/19/15 08:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 18K vs 20.5K lb chassis

Waaaaaay too many other variables involved, to say if the 18k vs 20.5 chassis would have a better ride. It all depends on the specific coaches in question and how they're built. You just got to take both for a test drive, and decide for yourself. Floorplan is probably the more important deciding factor, anyway, much more than chassis weight rating/size.
willald 10/12/15 09:05pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: How to blow out lines to winterize

(SIGH) SIX pages of: "THAT won't work!" "Yes, it will!" "No, it won't!" "But, I have done it, and it does work!" "No, it can't work!" et cetera, ad infinitum, ad nauseum! Nothing new to see here, just move along... Mowermech, isn't that what 90% of the threads on here evolve into, in one form or another? :) Will
willald 10/01/15 08:49am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone towing a 2010-2012 Ford Taurus?

Well, it just means that something, somewhere, is staying on in your Taurus when towing it (with key in ACC mode), and that is draining the battery. Not uncommon at all. Your choices to solve this go something like this: 1. Find out what is causing the drain, and turn it off when towing, if you can do so without hurting anything. Usually done by pulling a fuse or installing a switch of some kind. 2. Disconnect the battery whenever you tow. 3. Install a charge line from Motorhome to your toad, to keep battery charged. I personally recommend option #3. Tis the easiest, simplest solution, and costs very little. I had to do that with my 2013 Ford Fusion Hybrid that we tow, and its worked great. Battery stays completely fresh and charged up when towing.
willald 09/30/15 09:19am Dinghy Towing
RE: How to blow out lines to winterize

Here is my question; If this way is the better way to winterize, why don't the RV places use this method instead of the antifreeze method? Actually, they do. I know of at least one major, well respected RV manufacturer that when asked about this subject, said that they use the compressor blow out method on units they ship up north, and they say it works just fine. I also know of an mobile RV service tech that is contracted to winterize several RVs that are parked somewhat permanently up in the mountains. He also, used air. I have always used air blow out method to winterize. Been doing it that way for years, as long as I can remember. Never had an issue. My thoughts have always been, if its good enough for the ones that build these things, AND for a service professional that works on them every day, its good enough for me. However, after watching my brother in law have a plumbing leak on one of the toilets in his RV last Spring after he did the blow-out method....I'm starting to re-think that. Made me feel bad that I taught him how to winterize with the air compressor, he followed my suggestion for such, and had a plumbing fitting on the toilet break the next Spring. I think the key is, you have to do it right, and many people do not. With the blow-out method, there is not as much room for error. You have to get all the water out, and that takes a little more time with the air method than it does with antifreeze. The big advantage, though, is that you keep that nasty pink stuff completely out of your fresh water lines, so 'de-winterizing' is pretty much non existant. Not sure if I'm going to continue using the air method or not...
willald 09/29/15 10:20am Class A Motorhomes
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