We had our couch reupholstered about a year ago, and it came out the front door to go to the upholstery shop. Yes, had to be taken apart, then brought back in piece by piece and reassembled inside. Once disassembled, it came out the door easily. Only hard part was figuring out how it all went back together afterward. Came out great, though.
I think, there's just something about how RV trailer tires are treated, that makes them prone to an early demise. Doesn't matter if you pony up for LT tires or not - Sitting for long periods exposed to the elements, pushed to very edge of weight ratings, driven sometimes when not properly inflated, tight twisting when making turns.....These things take years of life away from a tire. Thats why sooo many recommend that trailer tires be replaced every 3 or 4 years, regardless.
When we had an RV trailer, I always insisted on Maxxis (ST) tires only, and they got replaced every 4 years, no matter how good they looked. Never had a tire issue, in the 12 years we had various RV trailers. Still carry Good Sam ERS just in case, but have never had to use it with the RV.
This is nothing new and I am not sure why you think it is..
I'm not the one that said this was new, you did. You are the one that said, "Tell us what you think about your new singles after you pick up the first nail....".
All I did was point out that super singles were nothing new to this particular poster, he has been using them for years. Thats all. He's heard all the reasons why some don't like them, and still choses to use them and is happy with them after using them for several years. I think thats great.
If you don't like me or my posts, please feel free to block me so you don't have to ever deal with my responses in the future.
I've been on these forums for 15 years, never felt the need yet to block anyone. Don't intend to start now. :)
Doing the math on my tires, I will actually save money buying singles.
The 305/70/22.5 tires run over $700 each and the super single rear tire is about $850. Add in a rim and I'm still lower price than just buying duals.
Tell us what you think about your new singles after you pick up the first nail in that tire and are crippled.
...If you'd read more before speaking, you'd see that Super Singles are hardly 'new' for this guy. He's been running them for several years and has been very happy with them. He's already heard from all the nay-sayers, and addressed all their old, tired points like this one very well.
Personally, I respect TDINewGuy for bravely trying something new on an RV that nobody else seems to want to, and that it has worked out well for him. More power to him. :)
FWIW, I looked into super singles once, as I was intrigued by the idea. Found that for my coach and its 19.5" tires, super singles are not a realistic option. They don't make a rim or super single tire that would fit with mine, at least not without some major modifications I don't want to do.
SIMPLE test for power to Kwikee steps. Turn Chassis engine ON. Open and close the entry door. Watch the under step amber light. IF it goes on and OFF when opening and closing door the power to the step is correct. Then HIT the motor with a hammer(engine running) while opening and closing the door. IF the motor has a dead spot, it will eventually start to operate. If so, the motor is bad. Replace it. Doug
Thank you Sir,
This procedure worked on the third smack of the motor. Time to order a motor.
I just replaced the motor in mine a few months ago. Mine quit after just 5 years use (2012 model - see signature). Smacking it didn't help, but since it wouldn't move at all, I immediately suspected the motor, so I disconnected it and verified via a continuity test, that the motor had shorted out internally and was dead. Soo, just ordered a new motor and put it in.
Not a hard job, but definitely takes some patience, getting that motor positioned right, and getting all the bolts in place, with all the right spacers, etc. I'd plan on this taking you a good couple of hours, at least.
Dont see any grumpy old men, just some snide comments
Yep, snide comments, like telling how upside down someone will be if they don't finance a certain way, when nobody ever asked for that advice.
Grit dog is right, and it is pretty funny that just as predicted very early on in this thread, almost immediately when this topic came up, we get unsolicited advice from the 'pay cash or do without' crowd. :)
It never fails, hahaha.
" It is more about money for the state. " Actually it is money for the service station guys.
In 2009 there was proposed legislation to eliminate inspections in NC and the bill was killed by various trade organizations- The Independent Garage Owners of NC, The Automotive Service Association, and the Motor and Equipment Manufacturers Association, etc. Lobbyists all-
That, really surprises me.
Every shop I talk to about it (as well as friends I know that own service shops), every one of them HATES state inspections with a passion and wish they didn't have to do them. I know a few that quit doing inspections altogether because they are such a pain, and since the state mandates what they can charge for such, they make almost no money on them.
Can't really give you any specific place to take it to, but must say as a fellow NC resident, I understand this frustration and must deal with it, too.
Very few places want to deal with state inspections for our big rigs, because there is so little $$ in it, and to do it right (NCDMV technically requires it to be put on a lift) requires very expensive equipment that only big truck shops will have. Sooo, you have to find someone that has the lift, equipment to lift these rigs, or is willing to just sign off on the inspection without actually lifting it.
Last year, I took it to a Camping World that has the huge lifts, regulary works on the big rigs. Guess what?! They didn't even put it on the lift, they just did the quick safety inspection, signed it off and sent me on my way! Nobody I've ever taken it to for inspection, whether they have the lift or not, actually will put it on a lift like they are supposed to. They just sign it off, haha.
All I can tell you is, call around to various places like the ones already suggested, tell them what you have, see if they will do the inspection. Thats what I did. I eventually found one or two RV dealers fairly close that will do it. There's only one Ford dealer around here that will do it (my MH is on a Ford F53 chassis), but they're 45 minutes away. Found two RV dealers considerably closer than that who will do it, thats who I take it to.
Did your stems have clamps?
When you say clamps, do you mean, the piece that goes in the hole on the outer tire, to hold the long valve stem in place?
If so, the answer is yes, we used those. They came with the dually valves in the form of a rubber oval-shaped piece that fit snugly into the hole and held the long dually valve in place (had a hole in center that valve stem came through). That was only thing the valves came with to hold it in place on the outside, and yes, we used them.
We did not have TPMS caps at ends, either. Never have been a fan of TPMS systems that mount onto end of valve stems.
The expansion and contraction of metals, or the differing metals wouldn't have anything to do with it, IMO, because there's a large rubber washer that's there at the mounting area to prevent that sort of failure modes.
That's what I thought, too, but was really at a loss for any other way to explain why those long stems kept leaking..
Totally understand. Like a previous poster, this was precisely the reason we gave up our boat many years ago, and decided to focus just on camping/RVing. Boat got to where it was no longer fun, and not worth all the hassle. That was when it was time for it to go.
The day will probably come, when we may well be forced to make the same very tough decision with ours. I don't even want to think about that, though, we're having too much fun with it now, even though we only get out with it 4 or 5 times a year.
Anyway, Effy, have enjoyed your posts, and good luck with what whatever is next for you. :)
For what it's worth to the OP, this is what I used to replace the original valve stems and to eliminate the braided extenders.
Dually Solid Valve Stems
I used to highly recommend the solid dually valve stems like these. Put them on when first bought our Motorhome back in 2012. However, after using them for a few years now and learned a thing or two over the years, I do NOT use or recommend them any more.
I thought they were the perfect solution. One, single, one piece valve, no risk of leaking, and quick and easy to check, top off ALL tires, inner and outer.
Here's the problem: I can't explain why, but the long ones that go on inner tires....They WILL leak. Have no idea how or where, but they do. I was constantly putting air in the rear inners, but rest of tires did not leak at all. Got rid of those valve stems on inners, and the leaking stopped immediately.
Seemed they leaked the most, when climate changed from warm to cold or vice versa, which made me wonder if the issue is with the kind of metal these valves are made of, and maybe they expand/contract at too much different a rate than the wheels, causing leaking? Not sure. I know some will say this is normal with any/all valve stems, but I'm here to tell you, when I took off these valve stems, the leaking quit almost completely. The difference was drastic, and immediate. These dually valve stems, the long one for the inner...They LEAK, there is/was no denying it.
Tire shop examined them (dually stems) very closely when they came off. Valve was not loose, rubber seal inside was not leaking or crushed. They couldn't explain it, either, but agreed from what I found, that those long dually valve stems needed to go.
Now, I use braided extensions on inners, the airless kind. Meaning, even if the extension works loose or tears apart, no air will leak, because there is no air in it except when you hook a gauge or air pump to it. This is what I recommend for the inners, but you MUST make sure they are airless. You don't want any kind of extension that can leak air if it works loose.
For the outers, for now I am still using the dually one piece U shaped valves, as they don't seem to leak as bad. If I can ever find airless U shaped valve extensions, I'll use those on the outers and do away with the dually valves on outers, too.
Bottom line: AIRLESS valve extensions are the way to go, and the only thing I trust now.
Look up 'carringb' on this forum, if he doesn't find this thread first and post to it. He has an e350 van with a v10 in it. I know it's not a class A, but IIRC he has well over 300,000 miles on his v10 (original, not bee rebuilt), and it's still going strong far as I know. He has towed several different trailers with it, some very large. Great guy, too, I got to meet him once and hang out with him when he was here in my neck of the woods several years ago. Very knowledgeable about the v10 and lots of other things, too.
I've owned two v10s myself, one in a Ford excursion we used to tow a big RV trailer with, and now the one in the motorhome (see signature). Great engine, I really like it.
We really like that model, too! Almost bought one on two different occasions, as a trade up from what we have now (see signature). In one case, we couldn't agree on a price; The other one, the unit (40G) was just too old, worn for our liking. I still look occasionally, but for most part have decided to stick with what we have.
We found that this particular model/floorplan is pretty popular and in high demand, especially good quality used units. There's not many on RV trader, and when they do go on there, they don't last long. Dealer told me that when he gets those units in on trade, he usually has them sold before they even hit the sales floor or got advertised anywhere.
That being the case, I would suggest contacting a few dealers, let them know what you are looking for, see if they will contact you if they come into one of these 40G units. That may give you a better chance of finding one. That is how we found one that we almost bought.
Also, will tell you from the research we did on these, that the year models you are talking about, (up through 2011) we specifically avoided. We didn't want anything from Fleetwood made before 2012 for various reasons. For this particular unit, one reason was that before I believe it was 2012, they used a different engine that seemed very underpowered for this size coach. Other reason was that anything older than 2012, you get into units that were built during the time Fleetwood was in the middle of some major re-organization, and they built their fair share of 'lemons' during that time period. If at all possible, I'd try to get into a 2012 or newer unit if you can.
...DO NOT let your child face the rear. DO NOT seat them sideways, side impact is not the same as sideways in a front end collision. Make sure the belts are anchored good. I had our granddaughter in the front passenger seat. It was the only good seat, anchor wise, and the seat back protected her from flying missile hazards from the rear.
Don't let anyone face the rear or face sideways? LOL, you just eliminated nearly EVERY place for anyone to sit in a motorhome but the driver and passenger up front!
Haha, now, a 35-40' 20,000 lb+ RV can only carry two people in it. Really? If that was the case, NOBODY should ever own these things but couples with no guests, children or grandchildren ever riding with them.
If everyone truly followed that approach...Wellll, pretty soon there wouldn't BE hardly any Motorhomes, because there'd be soooo few people buying them, many companies would just quit making them. A towable RV becomes a much, much better choice, then, if we all must go by these ridiculous rules.
Rick's previous post is a much more realistic approach to this issue, and I agree with it 100%. The fact you are in something so massive, where you sit up so much higher than most other vehicles, really gives you a level of safety that kinda changes things.
I do agree, that you should not let your passengers run wild in the RV while you are on the road. That is asking for trouble. Everyone should be seat belted, if a seatbelted seat is available for them. And, you should do what you can to insure you have seat-belted places for everyone to sit thats going to be riding with you regularly. Even if that means installing extra seat belts (I've done that, too). Getting up occasionally to get a drink, snack, or to use the facilities is OK, and I do allow that, but other than that, everyone needs to stay seated, and in a seatbelt.
Yes, facing sideways or backwards is not as safe as facing forward. However, IMO that is just one of the risks you have to accept when you move up to a Motorhome. Its one of the things you trade off for the added luxury, comfort of a motorized RV. It is mitigated well, I think, by the fact the RV is sooo much heavier than most other vehicles, and you are above where most vehicles will be.
Because of the issues already noted with propane (limited availability, power density, limited tank capacity)....I would never want a propane fired generator.
If gasoline gumming up the carburetor is such a concern, why not go with a gas generator that has fuel injection instead of a carburetor? Wouldn't that solve the problem with gumming up? I know generators like that are more expensive and not very many made that way, but I think I'd do that before I'd get a propane generator.
Only propane fired generator I'd ever consider, is if it was a home back-up power generator for the house that could run off natural gas. Since we have a gas line already that fuels the heat, water heater...Availability, storage would not be an issue in that case.
Our Motorhome has an Onan 5500 watt gas generator. We use it pretty regularly to run the air conditioners when on the road. Had it 4 years now, generator has always started right up and ran flawless for us. I think part of that, though, is because we exercise it regularly - Once a month, it gets run, exercised for a while, even during the non-camping winter months. By continually using the genny, hopefully you don't have much stale fuel run through it that's been sitting a long time. That, IMO, is what leads to a lot of the gumming issues.
...If everything already mentioned doesn't help (all good suggestions), and you hear nothing from the steps, no indication it is 'trying' to come out....You may well have a bad, burnt out motor.
One way to tell: Crawl underneath the steps, RV, and disconnect the connector, wires going to the motor that moves the steps. If you have a voltmeter that measures continuity, hook it across the two leads going to the motor, see if it beeps or whatever it does, when there is continuity, a 'closed' circuit with little resistance. If you get the beep indicating continuity between the two motor leads/wires, then the motor is shot. Time to order and put in a new motor.
I just went through exactly this with our steps a few months ago. Unit was just 4 years old, entry steps quit working. Was suspicious it was the motor from the get-go, so first thing I did was continuity test to see if motor was shorted out internally, and it was. Fortunately, as I recall the new motor only costed just under $100, and I was able to put it in myself. Same thing happened with the motor on our electric awning a few months before, and I was able to replace that one myself, too.
I'm starting to see a pattern with our MH - Right at 4 years old, seems electric motors that are outside, exposed to the elements, are starting to go. First the awning, then the steps. Only other motor outside I can think of (but am afraid to), is the one for the hydraulic jacks. Sure hope it ain't gonna be next, haha.
Same issue here in my 2013 KZ FW. Sofa and 2 chairs are cracking and peeling. I blamed it on the summer heat while being stored but maybe there is more to it.
Summer heat definitely plays a role, as we noticed areas of the couch, chairs that were more exposed to the sun, seemed to peel and wear faster. But, cheapness of the material is a big factor, too. If you can keep the shades down more to minimize the sun exposure to the sun, that will at least help it last a little longer.
Yep, the couch, recliner, and both captains chairs on our 2012 Georgetown did, and are doing, the same thing. Really rotten, the cheap material they use to upholster the seats in new RVs. From what I've read, many manufacturers use a cheap 'painted' leather, that never lasts long, just until the warranty ends, haha.
We chose to re-upholster the couch, did that last year. Cost us about $400, but well worth it, much better more durable leather. Like it much better. Going to look at reupholstering the recliner and captains chairs this winter with same material. Won't be cheap, but it's what we gotta do.
I'd be afraid if we just replaced the chairs, we'd just end up with same cheap material and have to replace it again in a few years.
..I had a similar thing happen to me once - got to campsite and found a flat tire, called Good Same ERS.
Within an hour a guy from Wingfoot Tire service (a Goodyear dealer) comes out. He took tire off, dismounted it from wheel, thoroughly inspected it inside and out to be sure was OK, repaired issue with valve stem that caused the leak, inflated tire back up, put it back on, all is good. Had brought a tire with him of same size, brand I already had, would have sold such to me and put it on if was needed (fortunately it was not).
Since he HAD repaired the tire (valve stem), I was handed a bill for a whopping $15. I thought that was very fair and gladly paid it, especially for as remote as we were and how quickly they came out.
All that said, I do agree that if all that was done was to replace the tire with the spare your friend already had....There should not have been a labor charge. If they had to do anything to REPAIR a tire, that's a different story.
I see GS is involved with this thread, hopefully they will make it right for you.
Profit margins are lower on Motorhomes than towable RVs?
With the prices I see for many Motorhomes, that seems a little hard to believe, but guess it may well be true.
As already said, we (Motorhome owners) should not take this so personal. If what he says is true, that they move slow and have less profit margins, then I too would focus more on the towable units. Seems that's just good business practice.
I do think, its one of the unfortunate things about Motorhomes in general - They have become soooooo ridiculously expensive, only a very select few can afford them, which means they don't sell quite as well as towable RVs.
If a dealer truly can sell several TTs in the time it takes to move one MH, and do so with a higher profit margin....Then I'd say we all better be very thankful RV dealerships carry any Motorhomes AT ALL in their stock, haha. :)