I don't understand how the breakaway cable could break the brake pedal. The cable is supposed to have a link installed that breaks loose with just a few hundred pounds of force if the vehicle breaks loose. I can understand the breakaway cable getting caught on something and applying the brakes enough to fry them, but not physically breaking the pedal.
If the metal link on the breakaway cable that is designed to break loose with just a few hundred pounds of force was not used properly in the connection, I can definitely see how this would happen. Just hate that this had to be such an expensive lesson for Squealer.
Lesson to be learned: Even when you have something installed and set up professionally, you still need to understand how a system works, and make sure you are hooking it up correctly and that the installer did their job right.
That is actually a common 'trick' that has been used for a long time, using grey tank water to flush out black tank.
I personally don't use that approach, as would always be concerned that I'd mess up and let 'stuff' from the black tank get over into grey tank. That, and I find its more effective to just use the dual flush pro device we have to back-fill the black tank with as much fresh water as appropriate, and dump it out. Using this approach, I can fill up and flush out the black tank as many times as necessary until I see the water flowing clear and know that the black tank is clean. Then, I still have entire grey tank to dump, to clean out the hose.
Even better would be a tank rinser or 'quickie-flush' system as I believe it is called. I installed one in our last RV and really liked it. RV we have now unfortunately does not, and no good way to install one, so the dual flush pro unit has to do. Our next RV will definitely have a tank rinser, though.
This whole experience here, IMO is a big reminder of why regardless what brake system is used, it is very important that some kind of indicator is set up on the MH dashboard, that will let the driver know when the brakes are being engaged on the towed vehicle. It needs to work directly off brake switch of some kind in towed vehicle, not an actuator on the brake system.
With the ReadyBrake, as already indicated, they provide such an indicator light, but instruct you to wire it to the ReadyBrake actuator, which is just not as effective at telling you whats going on as it would be if you wire that light to the towed vehicle's brake switch/light. That is what I've done with both of my vehicles I set up with ReadyBrake, and wouldn't have it any other way. I highly recommend this approach regardless what brake system is used. If that would have been done here in this case, it would have been known immediately when something was wrong, and probably could have avoided most of the damage, expense.
Here's another vote for, Just get another Readybrake cable (only costs $60 IIRC for a new cable), and have it installed properly by a good mechanic, and move on.
When this system is installed and set up properly, you just can't beat it. At least, not unless you have a DP Motorhome with full air brakes, and you spend a bunch more $$ on a full air system like Air Force One or M&G.
When you put boards or pads under rear tires, do you put them under all 4 rear tires or is it ok to just put them under the two outside tires?
I've wondered about this, too. If I have enough boards to put under all 4 back tires, I will, but usually, I do not, I just put outside tires up on blocks.
I think this is fine, since you're sitting still, and a good bit of the weight will be handled by the jacks back there, anyway.
If you *can* support all 4 easily, though, you definitely should, as that just means it'll be that much more solid, stable (less shakes inside).
Whats VERY important, though, is that you have the entire tread of the tire under a block, you don't want part of the tread to be hanging over the edge of the block, unsupported. This is very bad for the tire tread, and can lead to a tire's early demise.
I would have found a way, even if it took some time and effort, to keep the wheels on the ground.
Technically it probably won't hurt anything to lift wheels off the ground like that, as the jacks are designed to handle the weight. However, lifting it that high, and losing the stability the wheels/tires provide, can make things very shaky inside. Thats what I don't like and wouldn't want. That, and with one or both of the rear wheels off the ground, the parking brake isn't holding you anymore. RV could 'creep' forward or backward, putting a huge strain on the jacks to hold it in place.
If I can't raise the low side up high enough with blocks to get it level without taking a wheel off the ground, I'll get out the portable shovel I bring, and dig a small ditch/trench just in front of the wheels on the high side, and drive the MH forward into those ditches to drop down the high side some. I've had to do that a time or two. That is why I bring a small, portable shovel. I know some will say you shouldn't be digging like that on a campsite, but my answer to that is....If the campsite is that unlevel that I can't get the RV level with blocks...Wellll, then I'll do what I have to do. :)
I know many do it (raise wheels off the ground) and it usually won't hurt anything, but I've just never liked that. I avoid doing that even if I have to do some digging. Takes away too much stability when wheels leave the ground.
Like several others mentioned, I use a small level and place it either on the floor or the counter. Typically do that first thing as soon as get into a campsite, before extending jacks, just to see how far off level it is before I begin. Most times I end up using blocks under each jack, and sometimes drive one or two axles up onto blocks as well to get it level.
When it comes to leveling, don't be lazy and just let your jacks do all the work. Carry with you, and use blocks of some kind. The less you have to extend out your jacks when leveling, the more solid and less 'shaky' it will feel inside (not to mention its easier on your jacks). I typically get as close to level as I can with blocks, then put whatever remaining blocks I have left under the 4 jacks so jacks don't have to extend as much. Only then, do I extend the jacks to finish up the leveling.
I never use the 'Auto' button, either, unless we're on a very level site, like a paved one. I've found using the 'Auto' button will make it go through several unnecessary iterations of up and down, and end up raising one side up much higher than necessary. It does not work well unless you're almost perfectly level already. Manual mode is much better, IMO.
This reminds me of last time we were camping, about a month ago. Pulled up to our campsite (was a back-in site), older couple were sitting outside across the road from us, heard him say to his wife, "Oh, good, our afternoon entertainment, watching this young couple try to wrestle that big MH into that site! They look young, inexperienced, this oughta be fun to watch". Unfortunately for him, it ain't exactly our first rodeo, we been doing this for many years, haha. :)
Anyway, got in the site pretty easily and quickly, nothing really to see. Site was particularly unlevel, so I had to use a lot of my blocks, including some under the wheels. Afterward, got to talking to them (neighbors that had made that comment), his wife said, "You just gave my husband a good education! Like how you used blocks to do most the leveling, most MH owners just take the lazy way out and make jacks do all the work. Also like how you made those blocks with straps on them to make them easier to carry! I want to see how you made them, I think we're gonna make some of those." (I was using a set of 'homemade' blocks I made from pieces of 2x10 with straps on them to make them easier to carry).
...I do know this, when I run my genset and I am sitting still, I smell exhaust.
If thats the case, Effy, then IMO your Motorhome has a problem that needs to be addressed. You should NOT smell your generator exhaust when standing still. If that was the case, you couldn't even stop at a rest stop for a while and have lunch in your RV with the generator running to keep it cool with A/C. That is something we do all the time and really like to do. 'Tis one of the really cool things about traveling in a Motorhome. My generator is directly underneath the living room slideout, and I can honestly say we have never smelled generator exhaust inside, even when parked for a while and sitting at the dinette which is right over the generator.
...How fast it could fill the coach and be harmful - I don't know. I imagine the answer depends. How confident am I in my detector, about as confident as I am in the rest of the low quality stuff they put in Rv's. And I would be asleep and unable to consciously keep an eye (or nose) on the issue.
...As one that had a CO detector go off a few times in the middle of the night (totally unrelated to generator exhaust), I can PROMISE you, if yours goes off, I don't care how soundly you are sleeping, it will wake you up instantly and make you VERY conscious of the issue! Those things will wake the dead when they go off, hahaha!
You do make a good point about how confident we can be in the low quality stuff they put in RVs, though. However, I will tell you, as one that has had more than one CO detector go bad, when they go bad, they don't typically fail to go off when/if CO is present. More often than not, they start going off erroneously when the air is just fine.
....I still fail to see why folks are so passionate about these issues to the point of arguments. Do what you do and let others do what they do. Who cares if someone agrees with you or not?
Hehehehe, well, you are including yourself in what you fail to see there, as you, too, are continuing the argument. You've posted, what, 2, 3 times so far in this thread? :)
We've done it a few times when we 'driveway camped' at the in-law's place overnight a few times and it was hot enough that air conditioning was a must. It works just fine, and is not a problem. Kids actually love it, say that the constant hum of the generator helps them sleep. Generator runs all night, and we're all just fine the next morning. CO detector never went off, and we don't use a Genturi, either (although I definitely would if we did this regularly or did it in an area with lots of other people around).
I too was leary at first, concerned about CO getting in. However, it really is not an issue as long as you have a good CO detector. We don't use a Genturi, but that would no doubt reduces the risk even more, and is definitely a really good idea if you do this regularly.
I see that like always when questions/issues like this come up, we have plenty of folks that swear its sooo dangerous, nobody should EVER do it, just 'cause they chose not to or have never been in a situation where they would need to. :R
As to the 'legal CYA' warnings provided about sleeping with a generator on: LOL, if we followed ALL the little CYA warnings like that, pretty soon we'd all be living in caves, haha. :)
As to all those 'supposed' deaths due to CO poisoning: I wonder how many of them were due to folks camping in tents too close to where generators were running? Or, like already said, how many were due to someone using a heater inside that they really should not have? I'm betting very, very, few...Probably NONE of those deaths were cases of someone inside an RV inhaling too much CO from their own generator. That just doesn't happen except in very rare cases, and even then is totally avoidable if you have a good, properly installed, working CO detector (which I believe all MHs with a generator come with from the factory, and have for several years).
All Ford hybrids are towable:
Indeed so, and their hybrids make excellent towed vehicles, much more simple to tow than many others:
1. No limitation on how long or how far you can tow, no need to have to stop and run engine every so often
2. Very simple hitch up process, no crazy procedure to go through. Just hook it up, throw it in neutral and go
3. Very solid, well established record of flat towing - People have been towing them for many years, and never any reports of any issues (that weren't self inflicted)
4. Very nice to have at campgrounds - Can move around campground in them very quietly, with no emissions (runs in electric vehicle mode at slow speeds like that).
5. Many have power (vacuum) braking on all the time, even when towing, so supplemental brake system doesn't have to push on pedal so hard to engage brakes, nor is vacuum power assist necessary to install in many cases.
We've been towing a Ford Fusion Hybrid (2013) for 3 years now, and its been great. Just over 60k miles on it, probably another 10k in towing miles, and still runs as good and is just as much fun to drive today as the day we bought it (just recently, bout 5k miles ago, replaced tires for first time, got 55k out of original set)
A test that would lend credence to the theory of the cushion causing the problem would be if you had another vent that you did not use a cushion. If the vent without a cushion was still sound and solid, empirical evidence would be that the cushion was to blame.
...And that is exactly the case, beemerphile. I have two vents, one I used the cushion on, the other I did not. The one that had the cushion in it disintegrated, the other one is perfectly fine.
That's why I blame it on the cushion. No doubt the sun will eventually destroy them regardless, but it definitely seems like the cushion makes it happen much faster.
Looks like when I look for a replacement for this vent, need to find one that is a made of a material a bit more resistant to UV than the original one was.
When we first got our current RV back in 2012, we purchased a vent insert/cushion very similar to THIS to go in one of the roof vents. It has a white cushion material on one side that you see on the ceiling, and a reflective foil material on the other to reflect out sunlight, heat. Did not really need a vent where that one was, and the thinking was that this would allow less heat and sunlight to get in, make it cooler inside. We were happy with this, and it worked fine (until just recently...read on).
Anyway, last week, we took a long, 5 day weekend trip to a local state park. On the road headed there, that insert piece drops out of the vent opening, and to the floor. Adhesive must have wore out, I thought, when driving down the road, no biggie, I easily fix that when we get to our campsite. Well, when I get to the campsite and set up, go to put the vent insert back in, look up at the vent opening and Whoa!! I'm staring up at blue sky, vent is wide open! No, vent itself is not open, it is closed, but the plastic vent cover itself is completely gone!! Ohhhhh, its a really, really good thing no rain is in the forecast for next several days! hahahaha!
Anyway, I found that the plastic vent itself had with time been exposed to sooo much heat from the sun, it had become brittle and literally broken away to pieces and was completely gone. I got up on the roof to investigate, found that the little bit of the plastic of the vent that was left was sooo brittle and worn out, you just touch it and it would flake away into pieces. Not sure when, how this happened, but know it must have been very recent, as in, probably on the way to the campground, 'cause it had been raining just days before that, and there was zero evidence of any water that had got down onto the insert piece. Neither was there any evidence on the roof that a branch or other object had fallen on to it and caused any of the damage. That plastic roof vent just literally rotted away to nothing and at some point, came completely apart going down the road. I checked everything else on the roof very closely while I was up there. Everything else, other vents, seals, etc. looked perfectly fine. This only happened to the one vent I had used one of those inserts/cushions on.
Our solution for the time being: On way home Sunday, stopped at RV place, picked up and installed a black MaxAir vent cover over that vent. Now, don't really need the insert, the dark colored Max Air cover keeps the sun out well enough. Eventually I'll have to replace the destroyed plastic vent piece (THIS), but the Max Air cover solves it for now. Not sure yet if I'm going to put the insert/cushion back in or not. The black MaxAir vent cover we put on does a pretty good job of keeping the sun, heat out, not sure if the insert will still be needed or not.
Anyway, lesson to be learned from this: If you use vent inserts like I mentioned here that have the foil like reflective material on the top, be careful!! It seems this can cause sooo much heat to build up on the vent cover, it can make them rot away and disintegrate in a few years from all the heat. I can only guess that the reflective material on the top caused sooooo much heat to be trapped on that vent, it eventually caused the plastic vent to completely rot away and disintegrate.
Has anyone else ever experienced anything like this with a vent?
Where ever you take it, call ahead first and make sure they are OK with doing the inspection for a Class A Motorhome like you have.
I've found that many places refuse to do such for a Motorhome, because even though they only have to do a safety inspection (no emissions), state law still requires that they put it on a lift and inspect the undercarriage. Not many places have a lift capable of lifting these beasts. Some places will do the inspection for you anyway and don't lift it, and just risk getting caught, fined by the state. Others will not take that risk. Others just don't want to do it at all and will make other excuses, 'cause there's so little $$ in it. That's why, you need to call ahead and make sure before you waste a bunch of time and fuel.
Update, and probably closure on this topic: ('cause I don't want to be one of those folks that starts a topic like this and never lets everyone know what happened)
Talked to dealer just a little while ago. Deal fell through, not gonna happen. Could not agree on some things with the deal, mostly the financing terms various banks would offer. Even though we have a really, really good credit rating...With a unit this old there is no way to do the deal without putting down more cash up front than I'm willing to part with right now.
Sooo, if anyone else is interested in this 2010 Discovery 40G, PM me and I'll give you the details of where it is. You won't find it on rvtrader or any other website, as they don't have it listed for sale yet, and probably won't list it anywhere. Sales reps are all confident it will sell just 'bout as fast as they put it on the sales floor. Like some have already said, these Discovery 40G units are very popular, and get snagged up very quickly. I just hate we ain't in a position to do the snagging right now. Maybe another time.
Hmmm....constant radiator failure, DPF system that robs engine of its power and can result in major repair bill, slideouts cracking tile floor unless after-market enhancements done....
I starting to think, I better off sticking with our Georgetown gasser. Or at the very least, if we go this Discovery route, I better make the dealer throw in a really good extended service contract that will cover some of these things!
I am supposed to go look at it in much more detail Thursday, possibly, if numbers work out that dealer is crunching right now with the bank. Very glad to have the information noted here to keep in mind when looking it over and negotiating the deal. Thank you, to everyone who relayed their experience with this coach. :)
engine check a must or its a deal breaker, insist on your choice of tires , start at $110k out the door.
Hello, been a while since I posted but thought I'd chime in. :-)
I own this exact year and model - we love ours! I thought I'd offer insight on on a few things we had to deal with. *We have barely 20k on ours.
For one - YOU NEED TO FIND OUT when the DPF was serviced, filter changed, or anything replaced concerning the DPF. This motor is notorious for blowing a DPF, as most owners don't realize letting this motor idle for any period of time will clog the DPF (use high idle when not moving and motor running). Repair for us @ 14k miles was over $6k.... We purchased ours used with 12k miles.
The motor is horribly underpowered (we live in WA *lots of hills), but the secondary market has options - if you find the right guy. Next time the DPF needs serviced, we'll probably get creative to "free up the motor". ;-)
The full wall slide WILL crack the tile. The previous owner had this happen and their dealer came up with some thin (1/2 inch) rubber strips that is used under the slide rollers when contracted - make sure to implement if you buy the coach.
Finally - Midnightsadie is dreaming. I suppose you can start at $110k, but this coach is still in demand as the bunk model is very popular. We bought during a down time in the market and still paid $150k. There may be 4 or 5 used ones for sale in the country, and I still think they're bringing the same money we paid or close. I'm curious to see what your dealer will ask. Tires are expensive, so that could be 3k to the price. The Spartan Chassis is night and day better than Freightliner - IMO... :-)
****Just noticed they're asking $140k - fair...
Thank you, jdub! This is exactly the kind of information I was hoping to get. :)
Yes, I thought the same thing when I saw midnightsadie's post - Nobody is going to sell a 2010 Discovery 40G for $110k, and if they do, you better RUN from it, 'cause there is something bad wrong with it, haha.
Excellent points, about the DPF and full wall slide issue. Will definitely check into that. I did not realize that year had the DPF.
Not surprised to hear that you feel it is underpowered. I was 'fraid of that, too, but will reserve judgement until I can test drive it.
Please keep the comments coming, and thanks in advance for them. :)
We are once again toying with the idea of trading up to this model.
Dealer just got this unit in on a trade (has not even been put up for sale yet). They called us few days ago 'cause they knew we had been looking for this specific model, told us they had just got this one in. we looked at it the other day (could not test drive yet), it looks really good, previous owner seems to have really taken good care of it. No hints of leaks or delamination anywhere, slideout seals all look good, interior all looks good (just needs a little cleaning here and there). Almost looks like it could be put on the showroom floor as new.
They are right now putting a fresh set of tires on it and cleaning it up. New tires are included in the deal (without even asking). They are asking right at $140k for it. Seems pretty much in line with what I'm seeing on RVtrader for similar units, but book value shows significantly less for average retail value.
If we decide to move forward with this, plan to have a mobile RV technician we've known and worked with for years come out and help us check it out, make sure we don't miss anything that may be wrong. Also thinking about seeing if dealer will let us take it to a nearby Cummins dealer and have them check out the engine, chassis. The fact that its 6 years old and there will be probably no warranty, has me a little nervous, as I know almost nothing about diesel engines, air systems, etc. There are sooo many parts, systems with this unit that I know very little about.
Now, for the questions:
1. It has the 350 hp, 750 torque Cummins 6.7L engine. Will know more once I test drive it, but this seems like would be very underpowered, for a coach this size, wouldn't it?
2. Does their price sound fair, all things considered?
3. I've heard about quality issues Fleetwood had back about the time this one was built, 2010. Any specific issues anyone heard of or know of, that I should look closely for? Should I not even consider a Fleetwood of this age?
Thanks in advance, as always, for any and all input on this. :)
We towed a Kia minivan on a tow dolly for a while.
One of the big problems you have with towing a minivan on a dolly, has to do with weight limitations. Minivans are heavy, many weigh well over 4,000 lbs, some close to 5,000. There's only a handful of tow dollies made that are rated to handle that much weight.
Also, many Motorhomes, the weight limit on the hitch receiver is 5,000 lbs. Add the weight of a tow dolly to a minivan that in some cases is getting close to 5,000 lbs by itself, and you frequently will find yourself over that 5,000 lb limitation of the MH's hitch receiver.
Also, as already noted, width and fender clearance can be an issue.
I agree with a previous post - The Acme EZE tow dolly is probably one of the best choices if you are going to tow a minivan on a dolly. Thats what we used, and it worked great. It is one of the few dollies out there that is rated to handle 5,000 lbs, yet only weighs about 400 lbs. That, and the way its designed, pretty well eliminates issues with fender clearance, taking sharp turns, etc.
...For a system that can be easily used on two different vehicles, that will be much, much more budget friendly than any of the systems already mentioned, look no further than the Readybrake.
Just can't beat it, IMO - Simple (one time) installation in towed vehicle of nothing more than a cable from brake pedal up to front bumper, only costs $60 more for same cable to install on a second vehicle, so you can tow either vehicle and use the Readybrake system. Simple, no-nonsense, no electronics cable operated system that simply works. Costs SIGNIFICANTLY less than the other systems mentioned, will work on almost any vehicle including hybrids (unlike M&G). And, almost all parts to it that could wear out eventually, could be found at any hardware store for less than $20 (and easily installed by the owner, no need for expensive labor). No need to wait weeks for the company to send you replacement parts like is the case for most any other brake system.
Now, it doesn't give braking quite as smooth and truly proportional as an air operated system like AF1 or M&G that works directly off of the MH's air brake system. If you have a MH equipped with full air brakes, M&G or AF1 is probably the best option (although much more expensive than something like Readybrake). However, if you have a gas coach or one that doesnt have full air brakes, then the Readybrake makes a lot more sense, IMO.
..Actually, compared to your older DP you have now, the new one you're looking at with a gasser V10 will probably feel like a drag racer, hahahaha!
Seriously, a gasser engine like the V10 has much better 'throttle response' than a diesel. Especially compared to an older diesel like you have. You step on the accelerator, the V10 will respond appropriately and get moving. A diesel will just grunt and lug. Since it can't drop down a gear and turn higher RPMs like a gasser can, it can't give you the quicker acceleration a gasser can. In terms of acceleration from a dead stop and immediate throttle response, even in a big 40' unit like that, the gasser will feel much quicker. Especially when compared to an older diesel like yours.
Now, like already said, once you get in the moutains and go up a long, steep grade, it will probably be a different story. That is where the diesel shines.
If everything else about the unit you're looking at checks out (quality, floorplan, etc), I would not let the concern over the engine type, drivetrain concern you. You will be happy with it.