First, no one really steals GPS units all that much anymore.
But, to answer your question, how about a good old standard dash bean bag mount?
Set it anywhere and move easily move it to the floor out of sight when you stop.
I've used this for years with my older Garmin. Easy to adjust, move off the dash, move to car, etc.
But with my new 6" Garmin it tends to slide some. So I'm trying several options for a better rubber base under the mount.
Yes, this is the kind I seriously thought about, but as noted, decided against, due to the way the 'bags' on it force you to set the GPS further away from you, closer to the windshield.
I too, am wondering if mine may still slide some because of how big it is (7" screen). If it does, my plan is to use a couple small pieces of velcro underneath to help hold the thing in place.
Hehehe, here we go with another 'poop' discussion. THis subject always gets lots of attention. :)
To those that swear that water only is all you ever need, and you've never had any odors: All I can say is when it comes time to dump tanks, you are living in serious denial if you think no odors come out, then. That, or you must wear a gas mask when dumping.
When you dump the tanks, I don't care what kind of hose, fittings, etc. you use, nor how you do it. There WILL be some air, 'gases' that get out. Nothing you can do about it, really, except put something in your tank to control those odors. If you don't use chemicals (or something else to control odors), it WILL stink, and stink REALLY bad in some cases when dumping. Anyone that says otherwise, like I said, is living in denial or wears a gas mask. :)
If for no other reason, this is why you should use something to control the odors - Out of respect for those around you when you are dumping your tanks. If you always dump out in the boonies when nobody is around but you, and you don't mind the smell, then I guess it doesn't matter. I'm betting, though, that is not the case for most of us.
Also, just once, have a sewer hose pop loose from a connection while dumping, and have it spew some 'waste' out (something that happens to all of us at least once)....You will learn very quickly why its wise to have something in place, to control odors just in case. ;)
It is true, that while the 'waste' is in the tank, IF everything is working properly, odors should rarely get out, chemicals or not. However, when you dump the tanks, its an entirely different story and all bets are off. That is why we use chemicals (Odorlos).
..To dredge back up this old topic, and let everyone know what I decided on for this:
Got the GPS unit last week, a Garmin RV 760LMT. Really like it and all the information it provides. I use it driving to work and back every day just for the traffic updates/warnings it provides. Haven't had a chance to try it out in the Motorhome yet, but hopefully will soon.
After thinking it through, reading the various responses here, and looking closely at the dashboard on both the MH as well as our everyday driving vehicles we will use the GPS in (Kia minivan and Ford Fusion), I decided on THIS weighted dashboard mount piece. Ordered it last week (could only get it online, no stores had it), its supposed to be here tomorrow.
I've been using the suction cup mount to mount it to the windshield in the Fusion so far. That works OK, but will definitely be nice to have it down on the dashboard, where it won't block the view as much and will be easier to 'hide away' to prevent theft.
Seriously considered a mount like THIS that some had suggested on here, as some stores had it in stock and I could have obviously got it much quicker. However, this one forced me to put the GPS unit further forward (closer to windshield) than I would have preferred, due to where the bean bags are located on it. The unit I ordered is more 'horse shoe' shaped, and will allow the unit to sit further back, where I can reach it easier.
Definitely some good points made about theft, it may well be that I'm being a bit too 'paranoid' about that. I agree 100% that it really doesn't matter for the MH, but when used in other vehicles this IS more of a risk. 'Tis why I wanted (and ordered) a mount that can easily be stashed away, removing any easily visible 'evidence' of a GPS unit.
Anyway, just wanted to 'close the loop' on this thread, in the hope that maybe it'll help the next person that comes along and has the same or a similar question. :)
Thank you all for your comments. Yes we do have the 12v line that we use, but that does not seem to help.
..Verify that you have, among all other wiring, the following:
1. Good ground connection between the MH and the C-max.
2. a 12V+ connection/wire, fused, going from the MH to your C-max's + batter terminal post. That is what a charge line is. Verify with a voltmeter that this line has 12 volts on it when MH engine is running, and that any fuses in the line aren't blown. Even though your battery is in the back, there is a + terminal/post under the hood used for jump starting that you can connect to for this.
..If you're finding your C-max's battery is dead after towing for a few hours, my bet is you're going to find that one of the two things I mentioned above either was not done, has a bad connection, or is not wired properly, somehow. If the charge line is wired/set up properly, your C-max battery will not deplete like that.
Ford doesn't seem to be too much of a help on this issue.
Yes, I too have found that Ford isn't a whole lot of help with this. They see this as not really their problem. In Ford's defense, though, I've pretty much got same response from ANY/EVERY auto dealer I've talked to about the subject of flat towing setup.
More than once, when we bring our Fusion hybrid in to the Ford dealer for service, the Ford techs ask me why I wired that charge line to the battery + terminal. When I explain to them what it is and why I did it, I get this dumbfounded 'oh, really, I never thought of or heard of that' type of look. :)
..What navegator said. :)
This has been discussed a few times on here. Due to the way Ford's hybrid vehicles are designed, they (Cmax and Fusion hybrid) will draw down the battery when flat towing them. Tow them any longer than a few hours, and you will have a dead battery.
I verified this with our Fusion Hybrid, by putting a clip-on digital ammeter on the battery wire when simulating towing (key in ACC position, tranny in neutral, everything else turned off, etc.) Indeed, I found that there was an average of 3 amps of draw on the battery all the time (sometimes more).
Only way to solve this, is to just run a charge line like navegator mentioned. Thats what I did, as well as several others on here have done. 'Tis a very simple, easy, and inexpensive fix. And, it will insure you never have to worry about running down your towed vehicle's battery when towing, no matter how long/far you tow.
Since it's the front wheels that go onto the dolly then it's likely that it can be towed on a dolly. Probably not 4-down. One post (I googled "tow kia sedona on dolly" said that Kia recommended not putting the transmission in "park" but in "neutral" and to leave the key in accessory to allow the front wheels to turn.
..That was probably one of my posts from some time back. We own a Kia Sedona minivan also, and used to tow it behind our Motorhome. Initially, we did so on a dolly, then later set it up to tow 4 down, with a lube pump. It worked fine either way, and still has the lube pump on it today.
Yes, Kia technicians advised me that Kia does not even recommend dolly towing. Reason being, they are concerned that the rocking back and forth that goes on when dolly towing a vehicle, would break the parking 'paw' or whatever its called in the tranny, when tranny is in park. Solution, he told me: Strap the van down on the dolly, then leave the tranny in neutral. Sooo, thats what I did.
The dolly I was using at the time was an Acme EZE tow dolly, that did not have a pivot table, hence the need for steering column to remain unlocked. That, along with leaving tranny in neutral, was why I had to leave key in ACC position when towing.
The van worked OK both on the dolly as well as 4 down with the lube pump. Ultimately, I got to where I didn't trust the dolly straps, then after using the lube pump for a while, got to where I didn't trust the lube pump, either (yes, I'm not a very trusting kind of person, but thats just me, haha). Ended up trading our other vehicle we had at the time, for a Ford Fusion hybrid that is flat towable from the factory. Thats what we tow now and like it MUCH better for towing, although we still have the van. It (Kia Sedona) is DW's everyday driving vehicle. Could still tow it if we ever have the need, it still has the lube pump and everything on it, ready to go.
Anyway, don't even bother to ask Kia or read the owner's manual like already suggested. They will tell you that only answer is to put it on a flatbed trailer. Reality is, though, there are other options that work fine with this vehicle.
Since you mention using a dolly in the subject of this thread, one thing I'll warn you about: Check the weight ratings very carefully on any dolly you buy, compared to the weight of the van. Minivans are not light vehicles, our Sedona weighs around 4400 lbs (curb weight). There are very few dollies out there that can handle a vehicle this heavy, yet still be light enough that the weight of the dolly + weight of the vehicle not exceed the 5,000 lb limit most Motorhome hitch receivers have. The Acme EZE tow dolly was only one I found that could do such.
There's not very many DPs that are 36' or less. Most are much longer than that. If you need one that size and have a budget around $100k like you said.....I can see why you're having a tough time finding many DP options that aren't several years old.
Yes, there are indeed a lot of very nice (new) gasser units available to choose from for that $$ or quite a bit less. When it comes to RVs, I too prefer new, so thats what I'd be looking more at, if I was in your situation.
As to things a DP has (besides more pulling power), that you don't get in a gasser:
1. Full air brakes, and air suspension
2. Somewhat easier leveling, since you can dump air and drop entire coach down some before you start leveling
3. Much better ride when on the road, due to afore mentioned air suspension, the chassis its built on, and engine being in the back making it much quieter.
..However, as I'm sure you've seen, these 'pros' come at a very, VERY high price, compared to similar gasser models. I'd love to have a rear engine unit with full air suspension and air brakes. However, like many, I don't want those things bad enough to part with nearly $100k MORE up front for the initial purchase, and several thousand more over the years in extra maintenance costs the DP will incur.
..This is another of those topics thats been debated over and over since the dawn of time, basically, with the same basic arguments, pros/cons being mentioned every time.
I sometimes wonder if folks just ask this question for the entertainment of watching folks 'debate' the issue. :)
Naturally, those that use a dolly will highlight how versatile the dolly is and how it allows them to tow almost any FWD vehicle without modification, and saves them a bunch of $$. They will downplay how much more effort it requires to hitch up and unhitch, and how much more of a pain it is to store, maintain that dolly.
And, of course those that tow flat will highlight how much quicker, easier and simpler it is to hitch up and unhitch, and that they don't have any additional large hardware (dolly) to have to store, maintain. They will downplay how much extra $$ they spent setting the vehicle up for such, and the modifications (base plates, wiring, brake system, etc) they had to do.
The debate goes on and on. Bottom line is, like so many have said: There is no one size fits all. You have to decide for YOU, which 'pros' you must have, and which 'cons' you don't want to deal with.
Someone needs to proof read their articles!
"The iconic utility vehicle is slated to be fitted with an eight-speed automatic transmission that will ease its fuel consumption."
I think we want the fuel consumption "decreased" not increased! either way it is good for the Wrangler. and I`m sure it will still have a selectable T-case.
It says "ease its fuel consumption", not "increase its fuel consumption", as you implied.
Gotta watch those first few letters. :)
Question: When the brake system activates do the brake lights on the CR-V work or is addition equipement needed.
In many cases, yes, brake lights DO come on whenever the brake pedal is depressed, even if ignition is off (as it would be when towing). Obviously there are exceptions to this, so only way to know for certain is to just try pressing the brake pedal on your CR-V when ignition is off, see if brake lights come on.
However, don't let this answer mis-lead you: There IS additional wiring that needs to be installed, in order for your toad's tail lights to work properly when being towed. Installing the ReadyBrake cable is not the end of it.
The Readybrake cable engaging the brakes may cause toad's brake lights to come on, but you still need some kind of tail light wiring, for left and right turn signaling, as well as to make tail lights come on when towing at night.
There are numerous different ways to do this: You can install and wire in separate taillight bulbs, or you can wire directly into and use your existing tail lights using diodes. There are kits available for either approach. Or, you can buy a set of separate lights you put on the back of your toad (frequently known as 'magnetic lights'). One other approach is to use a wireless 'light bar' that sits on the back. Obviously, each approach has its own set of pros and cons, a subject of which gets debated here quite frequently. :)
..I would also like to say, you have made a GREAT CHOICE, going with the ReadyBrake Elite setup! You will like it a lot, and will save you a boatload of $$ and hassles, compared to most other 'brake in a box' type setups.
The tires have sat stationary for at least 2 yrs. (relocation within lot doesn't count)
Stationary tires get flat spots, lose flexibility and dry rot due to constant exposure to elements WITHOUT any benefit of actually being used, heating/cooling, rotating at speed---which are what helps keep tires from aging prematurely.
Be they MH, trailer, car or wheel barrel tires.
...Be all that as it may, Old Biscuit, I promise you, if you asked for a new set of tires on a new 2013 Motorhome like is being described here....Your request would not only be instantly denied, it would probably be the subject of a lot of jokes and laughs by the sales team after you left. And, it'd probably make them think not very highly of you, and not willing to deal/negotiate AT ALL with you on it, on anything.
No dealership is going to throw in a $3000 set of tires in a situation like this (unless they're already asking ridiculously too much for it and you agree to such price, in which case you're paying for those new tires, anyway, haha).
Here again, we're not talking about 4 ST trailer tires that never have moved for 2 years and cost only around $100 each and have just a 4 or 5 year life (and known to blow sooner than that in many cases, but thats a whole 'nother discussion). We're talking about 6 heavy duty, large tires similar to whats used on heavy trucks, very expensive ($400-500 each), made to last 7-10 years, and most certainly HAVE moved some in last 2 years. They ain't replacing those as part of the deal, without you paying for it one way or another. :)
Tire Kingdom, where we go for all tire related needs, will not do plugs anymore. They used to, but a few years ago they quit, and now insist that only way to properly repair a flat, is to patch it from the inside. Not sure if they use a plug in addition, but they always dismount the tire and patch it on the inside when I've been in there for flat repairs.
So, no, I have absolutely no problem with patches. Have had tires patched on a couple different occasions due to collecting a nail or screw, tire has been fine after patching.
..This reminds me of a somewhat related incident I had, with DW's minivan: Had noticed that one tire was loosing air noticeably faster than other 3. I was having to put air in it every couple of weeks. Knew it must have a leak, but I couldnt find any screw or nail in it (they can be difficult to see sometimes). When it went into Kia dealership for oil change last week, I told them to look at the tire and patch as necessary, as it was leaking.
They tell me tire is fine, no leaks in it. I knew they were full of it, as I had personally been having to add 5-10 psi every few weeks. I don't think they bothered to check it. Anyway, I took it over to Tire Kingdom, low and behold, they immediately found a screw in it, pulled it out and patched the tire. Problem solved.
Sometimes, you need to trust your 'gut', and the good ol' tire pressure gauge (or TPMS system), not what a dealership tells you. :)
..To keep from destroying the water system on the RV I built a tool to reduce the pressure to a manageable amount.
I went to Harbor Freight (I hate using them as everything comes from China, but in this case was the logical choice) and then to Home Depot and picked up an air regulator and the necessary fittings....
Every air compressor I've owned or worked with already has a pressure regulator, that would allow you to set the pressure down to something lower like 30 or 50 psi or whatever. Never had to buy or build one separately, but apparently you do when working with the larger, upright air compressors. I've always used smaller horizontal portable type compressors (5 gallon, 125psi max), and they've always had the regulator.
Either way, you're absolutely right that you need that regulator, as you do not want to push 110 psi through your water lines!
...I chose 30 PSI as a safe pressure level..
30 psi is not enough pressure to get enough water out of the lines. When I've used 30 psi, I could still hear 'gurgling' in the water lines; bump it up to 50 or so, and no more gurgling, just air.
You need to set it to between 50 and 60 psi, and you'll get MUCH more water out of the lines. You'll get enough out, that the antifreeze really is not necessary in the water lines. Your water lines can easily handle this much pressure (50-60 psi).
I've been doing it this way for as long as I can remember (4 different RVs over the last 15 years), and never had a problem yet. I can also point you to one major, respected RV manufacturer (Tiffin) that is known to use the compressor blow-out method (no antifreeze in the water lines) for units they ship north to cold climates. I can also point you to an RV technician with many, many years experience, that is contracted to winterize RVs up in the mountains that are set up there permanently, in the mountains. He also, uses and recommends the compressor blow-out method only. If this method is good enough for the ones that build RVs, AND for one that works on them and winterizes units that stay up in the mountains...Its good enough for me. :)
Anyway, thanks for sharing the pictures, and what you did to winterize yours. The part showing how you built your own pressure regulator, definitely should be helpful to some folks. :)
Although tires are maybe 2012s they have been sitting since trailers rolled onto dealers lot......
So new tires, new batteries and full mfg. warranty plus appliance warranties would need to be part of deal in writing and pricing would have to be 'out the door happy dance' range....
It goes without saying that since it's never been titled you will get full warranty on everything, just like buying anything else new despite it's year. You don't even have to ask for that, it's new. However, there is no way you will get them to put new tires on it. Try if you want, but they'll decline, I am certain. And they should, it's a ridiculous request.....
Me thinks, 'Old-Biscuit' is thinking about towable RVs, not Motorhomes. If this was a towable RV (TT or 5er) with ST tires on it that had already sat for 2 years, then I can definitely see asking for new tires. ST tires only have a 4-5 year life, and with 2 years already gone, I'd ask for new tires in that case, too.
However, we're talking about a Motorhome here, not a TT or 5er. Motorhome tires cost much, MUCH more than ST tires that go on a trailer, and last much longer. Also, since its a Motorhome, the tires have most likely NOT sat still for last 2 years. The MH has probably been on several test drives, to various RV shows, driven around the RV lot, etc.
That being the case, Effy is right - Asking for new tires is not necessary, and a ridiculous request that will be quickly declined.
As long as its what you want, and you do a good, thorough inspection and find everything working as it should....I'd have no problem buying a unit like this. I actually prefer buying one like that, as you get all the benefits of a new unit, without paying quite as high a price for it. A 2 year old unit, even though still technically new, should be discounted significantly!
Bottom line is this: Don't let concerns over braking on steep hills affect your decision one way or the other, when it comes to gas vs. diesel.
Its been debated many times, the differences between the two. Gasser engines naturally provide braking by virtue of suction created at the top end when closing the throttle valve. Diesels on their own have no engine braking, but adding an exhaust brake that plugs up the exhaust give them that braking. In the end, both do a good job of slowing things down when they need to, but do so in different ways.
Its not really accurate to suggest that diesels offer engine braking and gassers do not, when the reality is the exact opposite - Gassers provide braking naturally without having to add anything, diesels do not, and only get such by adding an exhaust brake that plugs up the exhaust.
Ultimately, though, since both accomplish the same basic thing when it comes to braking...There are much, much more important factors to consider when chosing between the two drivetrains.
We use the air/compressor method for winterizing, always have. Never had the issue described here.
However, here is I think where the difference may be: Even though we blow out all lines with air compressor to winterize, before doing that, I pump just a little bit of antifreeze through the water pump, just enough to fill the pump itself and its input line with antifreeze to protect it from freezing. Once that is done, I hook up compressor and blow out the lines.
I am hesitant to push compressed air through water pump (from input side), so letting it pump a little antifreeze through is only way I know of to get water out of the pump itself and protect it from freezing. Soo, even though we use compressor blow-out method, my procedure has still always been to use just a little antifreeze in the pump, to protect it (as well as in all the drain traps, obviously).
Anyway, might want to try this approach next time, see if that doesn't help. Perhaps the pump having some antifreeze in it will 'prime' it a little better, and allow it to start pulling water through easier when you get it back out in the Spring.
I've owned two Ford V10s - First, in the Ford Excursion we had for many years that we towed a 34' TT with, and now in our 36' MH. Both were (and are) great.
In both cases, I've never used the cruise control ever, when towing a heavy load (which is all the time with a MH). IMO it (cruise control) just wasn't designed to handle heavy towing very well, for the reasons alluded to here.
Was the same case, really, for previous tow vehicles I owned prior to that as well. I never use cruise control when towing heavy, ever. I've not seen a cruise control system yet, that handles such very well.
That said, I do really like the Ford V10 and torqueshift transmission drivetrain they put in the F53 chassis. It works great, and is pretty much bulletproof, it will not let you over-rev and damage the engine (unless you work really hard at it, haha). Huge improvement over what was available just a few years ago.
I used to use antifreeze but could always taste it for the entire season.
After the winter when I'm finally ready to de-winterize for the spring/summer/fall season I do a rinse of water/bleach through the lines then another with vinegar to neutralize the taste of bleach then after that plain old tap water.
..Rinse with bleach, then rinse with vinegar to neutralize bleach, then one more rinse with water to clear it all out, every time you de-winterize. Wow.
Or, if you just blow out the lines, do NONE of that, and just GO when you want to, no flushing out of any kind necessary, and no bad taste from the water.
I think this highlights very clearly why many of us chose to use the blow-out method, and shows why its not just about the $4 saved in antifreeze. Its about having basically ZERO de-winterizing to do when you're ready to camp again.
Like I said before, if compressor blow-out is good enough for the RV manufacturers themselves and is what THEY use, AND its good enough for RV technicians that are contracted to winterize units that sit permanently up in the mountains (where it gets quite cold) all year....Welllll, it should be good enough for all of us.
This thread did remind me it was time to get the winterizing done, so I went ahead and got our Motorhome Saturday, same way I always have, using air compressor. Did some experimenting some with air pressure this time. Did it inititally with the compressor's dial set at 35 psi, then did it again at 50. I definitely noticed at 35 psi, you still can hear 'gurgling' coming from the pipes when opening faucets. You don't get all the water out with just 35 psi. When I did it at 50, it pushed a bit more water out, then no more gurgling. Cleared the pipes out much better.
'Twas a good reminder why I've always used 50 psi when blowing out the lines, and why we've never had an issue with this approach.
Will be wonderful when we decide to head out camping next time, to just throw some clothes, food, etc. in the Motorhome and go. No need to fool with plumbing at all. :)
..By the way, my towed is to heavy for a ReadyBrake,
...Your towed weighs more than 8,000 lbs? Thats what Readybrake's ReadyBrute tow bar is rated for, and I don't believe RB has any weight rating/limit on their brake unit itself.
You must be loading down your Toyota Tundra pickup with a LOT of weight in the bed when towing it, if its over 8,000 lbs. Do you take a few loads of rocks with you when towing? :)
Everyone I know who has one said while it does what it should, all of them have had to replace the cable at least once, said you can't lube it, and over time it wears through the cable strands, so you have to inspect it, but both said the inspection didn't catch the wear and it broke while traveling.
...Well, given that I know of many, many people that have been using Readybrake for several years and not had to replace the cable yet, and I personally have been using it for 2 years and have seen very little signs of any wear on the cable.....I'd say the ones you know replacing the cables that often, must have a setup or installation issue of some kind. Definitely sounds like a cable is rubbing somewhere way more than it should.
Bottom line is if you install and set up the Readybrake correctly, you won't have that problem.
I am shopping for a braking system to tow a jeep wrangler and am debating between the Blue Ox Patriot and the Roadmaster Invisibrake. any comments or advise?
..My advise would be, skip both, do yourself a huge favor, save yourself a bunch of $$ and get you a ReadyBrake system instead.
Just can't beat it, IMHO. Costs significantly less than all the others, nothing to have to put in or take out, no electronics to foul up and damage your toad's brakes, very simple one-time installation of cable to the brake pedal. Just a simple, no-nonsense cable operated brake system that simply works.
If you haven't bought a tow bar yet, and get their ReadyBrute elite tow bar package, you end up getting a tow bar AND their braking system for almost the same $$ as you'd pay for a comparable tow bar from anyone else. That approach can save you over $1000 from what you're going to pay for the Invisibrake or Blue Ox Patriot.
Just a much better choice, IMHO.