RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog


RV Sales




RV Parks


RV Club


RV Buyers Guide


Roadside Assistance


Extended Service Plan


RV Travel Assistance


RV Credit Card


RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact

Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'willald' found 265 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 14  
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: SOOO Confused

Wow, that's quite a description, and make a lot of sense... I think I'll put my money into some other braking system! Thank you --------------------------------------------------------------the type of system that Ready Brake uses is subject to Hysteresis. So, if you step on the brake (especially if you hit the RV brakes hard), the toad pushes forward into the back of the RV. This movement is mechanically transferred to the toad brake through a lever and a cable. Then the cable pulls on the toad brake pedal as though a driver had stomped on the pedal. The toad would then pull backwards from the RV releasing the pressure on the lever and cable, and letting up on the brake. Then the toad (not braking any longer - but the RV is still braking) overtakes the back of the RV and which causes the lever to pull the cable connected to the toad brake pedal and the toad slams on the brakes and the whole cycle starts over again. The remedy for this herky jerky braking, is to use something like a shock absorber to stifle the repetitive action of the lever pulling on the brake cable. Yes, its quite a description. However, it also is a description that is about 20 years out of date when it comes to surge brake systems. :) Suggesting that a modern system like Readybrake is prone to this behavior, would be a little bit like saying all automobile owners risk breaking an arm when starting it, from having to turn the crank at the front to start the engine (like they used to on old Model Ts, remember? haha! :) ) Will
willald 08/28/15 09:43am Dinghy Towing
RE: What insurance companies cover high value motor homes?

You might try Lloyds of London. I'm sure they could set you up with a policy. :D Will
willald 08/26/15 12:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: fleetwood discovery

We have had a 2015 Discovery 40G since last November. Spent first three months at dealer trying to get simple door railing fixed. This was dealer issue. However when finally got RV home, windshield leaked first rain. Then main slide leaked with water running across floor. Short story is windshield repaired, then windshield replaced, first major trip the gasket came off from both sides. Slide now has major leak with water pouring across floor. Slide wall coming unstapled and all wood screw covers popped off through out unit. Driver side view mirror arm came loose. Found 1 screw totally stripped at factory, 2nd screw head almost stripped. Then side view mirror almost came off arm. Duck tape very handy repair tool this trip for holding side view mirror on and windshield gasket in place. After 10 months of owning new 2015 Discovery, actually had possession 4 months with 6 weeks of that waiting for repairs. Engine has been fantastic but the construction on the rest has been a nightmare. Dealer refuses return of unit. So stuck with leaky, falling apart RV. Very disappointed. Wow, what a story. Notice, though, that this is this user's FIRST and only post on here. Hmmmm, makes one wonder.... I actually really, really like the Discovery models, in particular the 40G floorplan noted here. 'Tis about the ONLY diesel pusher floorplan I've found that I actually like, and might could convince me one day to move up to a diesel pusher. That is, if I ever win the lottery or inherit a bunch of $$ so that I could afford such a rig, haha. :)
willald 08/26/15 07:55am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Leveling Jacks Do's and Don'ts

...Leveling a coach, almost no matter what size/length/slides/no slides etc. sometimes, requires thought. And, sometimes, it's no brainer. I have always advocated to level your coach, using the tires and wheels, by driving up on, whatever type of lumber you carry. That could be home made ramps, blocks, stacks of plywood etc. If you do it that way, then you're not stressing various parts of the coach, by trying to make the jacks over work themselves and, possibly torqueing the frame/body etc. Once you're "somewhat" level with your drive-on setup, then, I use the jacks to "fine tune" the leveling. And, if I've driven up on some blocks/ramps to help primary leveling operations, then I break out the blocks for the jacks. That way, they don't have to travel so far to help with the leveling and, stabilization. The farther they travel out, the more lateral movement they will have tendency to display. And, by utilizing lumber and driving up on it, you get the stability of 6 tires on the ground and, also all four jacks too. This is just my thoughts on how it's done. Many will differ. No biggie. Scott What Scott said here. This is exactly right. If you don't remember any other advice given here on leveling jacks, remember what Scott said here. Don't be afraid (or too lazy) to use blocks of some kind to do your leveling. The less your jacks have to extend to level, the more stable and solid the MH will be. Like Scott, I use some wood blocks I made to do most leveling. Jacks are only used to fine-tune it, and usually use blocks under the levelers to minimize how far they have to extend. Only time I won't use blocks at all is when we're on a concrete or paved site that is just about level as it is (not very often). One thing to remember about using blocks: If you drive the MH up onto blocks, need to make sure you position blocks so that entire tread of the tire is on the block. Having part of the tire tread hanging off the side of a block, is NOT good for the tires at all. I know some just like to use the auto leveling, and just push one button and forget about it. Not me. I don't like or trust the way it levels when you use auto leveling, so I NEVER use it. It will go through a zillion iterations of raising and lowering various jacks, and more often than not ends up lifting one end of the MH completely off the ground when its completely not necessary. I can level it by using the manual option, much quicker and easier.
willald 08/26/15 07:46am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Advantages and Disadvantages of Portable Sewage Disposal

I bought one of those totes years ago. I used it once, at home, then it sat under the bench in the shop for 5 years or so, until I dusted it off and sold it in a garage sale for $15. Why did it sit so long? Because I was reminded that most of the USFS campgrounds and State Parks we go to do not have dump stations! If I filled the tote, I would have to figure out how to take it home with me! When the nearest dump station is 10 to 40 miles away, one tends to be VERY conservative about water usage! ..In that situation, I would put the tote tank up in the truck bed, and buy/use a pump to fill it up from the RV. I've always have liked that idea. Then, you can easily just drive to the dump station, and empty the tote tank. I think that would still be easier than breaking camp and driving the RV that far to dump the tanks every few days.
willald 08/25/15 08:44pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Older Diesel or New Gas - Newbie question

5 kids, full-time? Wow, that is a lot. Full-timing with that many, I'm afraid you will be crowded in just about any Motorhome, short of a 45' Prevost 'entertainer' bus conversion. If I was going full-time with that many, I'd be tempted to skip MHs and look for an E350 van for a tow vehicle and large TT with a quad bunkhouse. But, assuming you must do this with a Motorhome, one problem you may have with finding an older DP to suit your purpose, is the same thing we did: We really, really wanted one with bunks. I'm betting with 5 kids, you probably do, too? They only started making MHs with multiple bunks in 2007 or 2008. And, every big DP unit we looked at built that recently, was out of our price range. That was part of why we ended up going the new gasser route (see signature). However, we ain't full-timing, if we were, I might have looked harder at a DP or two. Anyway, good luck on your search, and let us know what you end up with. :)
willald 08/24/15 08:05pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Formaldahyde in Holding Tanks

As already said, I doubt if any tank chemicals sold today still have formaldehyde, so you probably don't have to worry about that. But, no, you definitely do NOT want to use any chemicals that have such in it. As to whether or not to use chemicals at all, that is a personal decision. It is very questionable if they help much with breaking down solids, but when the right chemicals are used and used properly, they DO help reduce odors. That is why many folks chose to use them. Yes, in a perfect world where nothing ever goes wrong, chemicals should not be necessary and odors should be contained. However, in the real world where things can and do go wrong at the most inopportune (spelling?) times...Tank chemicals provide good insurance against embarrassing nasty odors. :) Waiting for Willaid to come on and tell us differently. ..I did a search, have not found anyone on this forum with an alias of 'Willaid'. Who is that, Ron?
willald 08/24/15 02:29pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Advantages and Disadvantages of Portable Sewage Disposal

..This is one of those questions that there is no 100% right answer to. For some folks, breaking camp and driving (or towing) the RV to a dump station every so often to dump grey tanks is easier; For others, such is a huge PITA and using the storage tote tank is much easier. It all depends on the specific individual and their circumstances: How much work is involved in breaking camp and setting back up, how far dump station is, how often grey tanks fill up, what kind of setup you have with a tote tank, etc. We also camp fairly often without a sewer hookup. For us, even though we have a class A MH, breaking camp to go dump tanks, then come back and setting everythng back up again....is way, waaaaaaaaay more hassle than its worth, and not something I'd ever do. We are a family of 4, all of whom enjoy taking showers every day. Between that and other things, our grey tank will only last 1-2 days maximum before its full and has to be emptied. If we're going to a place without sewer hookups, we always bring our Barker 'blue boy' 4 wheel tote tank for this. Have had it, done it that way for as long as I can remember and its always worked great. Do remember, that if you chose to break camp to go dump the gray tank, that means every few days you will have to: 1. Bring in all slideouts 2. Stowe everything inside the RV thats not bolted down, that could fall over and/or break when you move. 3. retract all jacks 4. Pick up/move any leveling blocks or wheel chocks you are using 5. Disconnect water line and shore power line 6. Move anything at your site out of the way that might be in the way of going out of and re-entering your site (bicycles, etc) ..Then when you're finished dumping the tanks, you have to re-do all those things back the way they were!! Seems like a waste of a LOT of time. I can think of much better ways to use that time when I'm out camping. :) Anyway, if you chose the tote tank route, I highly, highly recommend you get one that has 4 wheels and can be towed (slowly) behind a vehicle. This makes it MUUUCH easier, since you don't have to lift that thing when its full of water. Also, if you have a pickup or SUV, the suggestion made earlier about putting the tank in the truck and using a pump to fill it is a great one. That would make it VERY easy. Anyway, good luck and enjoy the trip, whichever way you go. :)
willald 08/24/15 01:52pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New vs used (from another angle - RV depreciation "gap")?

See signature - I own the exact coach you are comparing here (Georgetown 351 bunk model). One thing I noticed in looking at the two you compared: The one from RVdirect for $81k looks like it has full body paint. The one you linked to on rvtrader does not. That makes a significant difference in its value, around $8k difference. You need to get RV direct's price for that coach without the full body paint, to make a more accurate comparison. That, or look for a Georgetown 351 model on rvtrader that has the full body paint. ..Anyway, I'm not sure if that helps or hurts your point about depreciation, but just thought I'd point that out. I will say also, that if you're serious about getting one of these rigs, the full body paint is WELL worth the extra cost, for how much nicer it looks, and how it helps resale value in the long run. :)
willald 08/24/15 06:36am General RVing Issues
RE: How many GAS coaches out there with "50 amp service"?

Well, Scott, It seems, you're kind of asking two different things. Your subject asks how many gas coaches have 50 amp service. Then, read into your post more, sounds like you're really asking about how many come with inverter/charger systems and upgraded coach batteries. Two different questions, with very different answers there. :) If you're asking for percentages of gas coaches that come with 50 amp service...I'd say a LOT. Probably ALL, when you get over 32' and more than one air conditioner. Only snmaller MHs with a single Air cond. unit would be wired with 30 amp. Everything else, regardless of gas or diesel, is almost certainly going to be 50 amp. Now, if you're looking for percentages of gas coaches that come from the factory with an inverter/charger and upgraded coach batteries to run things off A/C with the inverter, that is probably quite a bit less with gas coaches. It seems to be getting more and more popular in recent years, though, with all coaches (gas and diesel) moving to residential refreigerators from the factory.
willald 08/21/15 01:29pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Auto insurance vs good SAMs roadside in general

I too have Progressive Insurance on our RV. However, like previously said, I am just NOT convinced that they can provide the level of service in the event of a breakdown, that Good Sam ERS, Coachnet, or AAA plus can provide. Yes, Progressive or other auto insurance policies will re-imburse you for towing and other expenses after the fact. However, will they provide you a 800 number you can call anytime 24/7 nationwide, with someone on the line that can locate an appropriate towing service and repair shop, get them to you and get you taken care of when you're stuck in the middle of nowhere and have no idea who to even call? Do they have an entire network of RV specific providers, vendors, etc. that they can call on for you? Pretty sure the answer is no, in most cases. ..For that reason, I keep Good Sam ERS coverage as well. Have had to use them on two occasions, and they were great both times.
willald 08/21/15 08:07am General RVing Issues
RE: Question on sewer at full hook-up site

We have one of those slinky hose supports. Used to use it regulary, but now, not so much. Reason being: For us, it once caused a nasty mess. You see, the problem with those slinky hose supports, is that when you dump, and a bunch of 'stuff' rushes through your hose, unless you hose is stretched really well in reaching the sewer drain (something you can't do if your shortest hose is 10' and the drain is only a few feet away)...The rush of water will make the hose 'squirm'/expand. When that happens, I've had the hose squirm enough sometimes that it fell completely off the slinky support. One time, when it fell off, it twisted the hose enough that it popped right off of its connection to the RV, then we had a 'shower' of nasty stuff spewing out until I could close the valve back! Ugh!! (..That was also the day that I learned why its a VERY good idea to use black tank chemicals to reduce the smell of that 'stuff', and that the kind I was using, 'Odorlos', works very good at that, haha!) Since then, only time I use that slinky support is when the sewer connection is far enough away that I can stretch the hose enough to be sure that won't happen. The slinky support comes with several short rubber 'bands' to stretch across the hose to hold it in place. Problem is, those bands wear out very quickly, or fall off and get lost even easier. That, and you'd have to have at least a dozen of 'em to hold the hose well enough to keep it from 'squirming' off of the support. Its ironic - its a case where a 'law' in some places put in place to prevent a mess, creates the risk of creating an even BIGGER mess, as it did with us once. :) Anyway, we leave the hose connected up when we have a sewer connection, to allow for easy dumping of the gray tank every few days (with a family of 4 and all like to take a shower every day, gray tank fills up fast, haha!). Rarely use the hose support for the reason described above, and its never been a problem. I just have to remember after dumping, to pick the hose up to let it drain out. Takes just 5 extra seconds, and much easier than dealing with the mess that happend the day the hose popped off on me! And, no, I've never had the hose come off from where it goes into the sewer outlet when doing that. Thats why you put weights of some kind on that end, to prevent that from happening. I do like the idea some have discussed, of using a few sections of gutter to support the hose. I think a gutter would be 'deep' enough, that the hose could not squirm out like it does on the slinky support. Not sure that PVC pipe, or the contraption CW sells mentioned previously would prevent that from happening. One of these days, I may just go buy me a few sections of gutter from Lowe's, and build me a support that can be used without risking the hose falling off and causing a bigger problem. :) On a separate note: Why is it that any thread on the subject of sewer/'poop', gets sooo much attention here from everyone? 6 pages of posts already, in just 3 days. :)
willald 08/20/15 07:18am General RVing Issues
RE: opinions on this M/H

Your link doesn't work. I think you meant THIS Newmar coach. Oops, I see someone already corrected the link. The coach looks really nice, actually. I haven't looked its book value up to see, but that seems like a good price, too.
willald 08/19/15 01:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Towing without a car braking system??

For regulations by state, check out the website www.towingworld.com Supercub: Your state trooper buddy is correct for CA....almost. The reg's there require you to have protection for braking the vehicle in case of breakaway. The only way you're going to get that is with a supplemental braking system. Better safe than sorry, for sure. Towing world is lying to you in order to sell more products. Pretty much. Getting towing law information from ANY company involved in selling supplemental braking systems, is a lot like asking a car salesman whether you should buy a car from him or not. You pretty well know what he/she will say before you ask (and you also know that he/she is probably lying, haha). :) Will
willald 08/19/15 01:27pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Overheating Toad!

Well, this is embarrassing. When I did a quick subtraction of odometer readings after noticing there was even a difference, I got 12 miles, but after looking at my iPhone photos (I took pictures of the dash display since I didn't have a pen handy), I see that it's actually 312 miles, which is about how far I drove that day. So it must have been in "Ready to Drive" mode the entire time and didn't get enough airflow to keep cool. Fortunately, no damage was done. Well, at least this solves the mystery, and now we know what happened. Thanks for posting back, even though it was a bit embarrassing. I was curious about this one. Glad to hear that no damage was done. :) I might just leave it off altogether (i.e. not in Acc mode) to help avoid this in the future... ..Yeah, like already said, I would be very cautious about doing that. You don't know the specifics of why Ford instructs you to leave it in ACC mode, what electrical systems they may WANT to stay on when being towed that you may be shutting off. Nearly everything with these hybrids is electrically powered/controlled. I'd really hate to think that something like an electric lube pump for the transmission would get shut off when towing, if you didn't leave it in ACC mode. That was why I chose to install a charge line, and just leave it in ACC mode and not mess with pulling fuses when towing. These Ford hybrids are pretty complicated machines, haha. Unless you could get a good, thorough knowledge somewhere of what systems are on and what systems are off when in ACC mode, I'd be very hesitant to try shutting it completely off. By the way, I did install a charge line. It works great, with and without the engine running! Good, that's definitely very important for these hybrids. It pretty much eliminates the chances of you ever running a (12 volt) battery dead. :)
willald 08/18/15 02:55pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Jayco Class A's

Just bought a 2015 Jayco Class A 35 UP Picking it up next Thursday after going through orientation at the dealer. Any tips as to what I need to be on the look out for Like the layout can't wait to get it and get Rv ing But it seems like most everybody has some sort of complaint about the crafted ship of their unit be it an entry level or high end I'm sure you've heard this before, but I'll say it anyway: Any time you're buying an RV, you need to take the time, before driving away with it, to test out and make sure ALL systems are working to your satisfaction. Much easier to get issues addressed/fixed now while you have the full attention of the RV dealer and their service department. Yes, check everything, even the things you don't think about, won't typically use for a while. Make them show you that everything works, and how it works - generator, hydraulic jacks, air conditioners, furnace, electrical system components (converters, inverters, etc), water pump, holding tanks, drain valves, stove, oven, microwave, TVs, TV antenna.....That list goes on and on, but you get the idea. Much better to identify and get issues addressed now, than when you're out camping somewhere. Ayway, congrats on the new unit, I think you'll like it. The Jayco Class A units look nice, they offer some nice features that few other manufacturers do. And, they have 'bout the best warranty you can find anywhere with RVs, too (2 years - most others are only 1 year).
willald 08/18/15 07:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Heads up if you use Aqua-Kem "toss-ins"

However, that stink is contained, with the exception of the roof top vent and when a toilet is flushed. ..Or when the seals around the toilet wears out or fail, and you can't fix it immediately (like when camping). Or when the black tank vent line gets clogged. Or when the wind blows just the wrong way, and odors from that roof top vent make their way to the noses of your neighbors. Exactly! Those are some of the problems that will allow the stink to get inside the rv...and need to be repaired. My point exactly and what I have previously mentioned several times. Right, and my point is, like I mentioned previously, sometimes those things are going to happen at a time, place such that you cannot fix it 100% instantly. That is when and why you will be very glad you are using chemicals. Even when dumping the tank, the connections and hose are sealed with no openings to the outside. Sooo, how exactly does one 'seal' where the hose goes in/on the sewer drain/outlet at the campground? THIS is an example of the type of fitting/connection that should be used. LOL, thank you, you just proved my point with your link there. :) Look closely at the end of that Rhino fitting you linked to, where it goes down onto the sewer outlet. There is NOT going to be a completely air/gas tight seal there, no matter what you do. Only way to come close to that would be if you had a fitting that had threads (which that Rhino piece you linked to does not BTW), and you were lucky enough to have a sewer outlet that had the same diameter threads and the fitting could be snugly screwed onto it. That will not happen very often, though. ............. I just don't think that a well maintained rv will experience these kind of problems often enough to warrant constant dumping of chemicals in the black tank. Obviously you do and that's ok as it's your money, your rv. I think, if you had one or two unfortunate 'incidents' where some stuff spills out that you think never, ever can....You might see this differently. :) ...And, I think that is basically the crux of where you and I disagree. You just don't think there is enough risk of this happening to warrant using chemicals. I OTOH, believe that it does warrant such, provided that you use the right chemicals and use them properly. Like I said, its a lot like insurance. You have to decide which is worse: Paying the premiums, or risking having something bad happen without the insurance in place. Guess we'll just have to leave it at that, agree to disagree, and let everyone decide for themselves. :) Its a little bit like car insurance. If you ever actually need your car insurance...Something went wrong. Period. As long as nothing ever goes wrong on the road and you are an absolute PERFECT driver and live in your perfect little world where every other driver on the road is perfect...Insurance, like chemicals, would be a waste of money. However, for those of us that live in the real world where things can and do go wrong, not a fantasy world where nothing ever goes wrong....Black tank chemicals, like insurance, is a really good idea. :) Ok, now you're getting a little personal and is uncalled for. We are having a rational discussion and we obviously have different point of views. But you have no reason to try an belittle my opinions by saying I live in a little world full of fantasies... ...But, it was OK for you to belittle my opinion earlier in this post, when you said that I must be the newbie? How does that saying go about the pot and the kettle? :) Indeed, Ron, have a great day.
willald 08/17/15 09:46pm General RVing Issues
RE: Heads up if you use Aqua-Kem "toss-ins"

However, that stink is contained, with the exception of the roof top vent and when a toilet is flushed. ..Or when the seals around the toilet wears out or fail, and you can't fix it immediately (like when camping). Or when the black tank vent line gets clogged. Or when the wind blows just the wrong way, and odors from that roof top vent make their way to the noses of your neighbors. Even when dumping the tank, the connections and hose are sealed with no openings to the outside. Sooo, how exactly does one 'seal' where the hose goes in/on the sewer drain/outlet at the campground? I hope you aren't going to try and suggest that using a rubber donut or a weight holding the hose down gives you a perfect seal, as it does not. When you dump your tanks, some air/'gas' from in the tank is frequently going to get out, even if no liquid or solid does. Anyone that thinks otherwise...Hasn't been around RVs very much. :) (..And that's not even getting into how imperfect some sewer hose connections, fittings can be as they wear out, or the fact that sewer hoses can develop pinholes in them from time to time, neither of which will be noticed until it leaks out during use). Sooo, NO, the connections/hose are NOT necessarily 'sealed with no openings to the outside'. If you are experiencing an odor inside the rv, something is wrong. Period! No argument there, but my point was, the solution to whatever is wrong, in the REAL world in many cases is not something you can fix instantly, on the fly. Sometimes, you have to live with a bad smell from the black tank temporarily. And, you don't ever know when that could happen. That is why the chemicals are a good idea, so that when things don't work perfectly, you don't have a horrible smell to deal with (or at least not AS horrible). Its a little bit like car insurance. If you ever actually need your car insurance...Something went wrong. Period. As long as nothing ever goes wrong on the road and you are an absolute PERFECT driver and live in your perfect little world where every other driver on the road is perfect...Insurance, like chemicals, would be a waste of money. However, for those of us that live in the real world where things can and do go wrong, not a fantasy world where nothing ever goes wrong....Black tank chemicals, like insurance, is a really good idea. :) Will
willald 08/17/15 02:07pm General RVing Issues
RE: Heads up if you use Aqua-Kem "toss-ins"

....Nothing stops poop from stinking... Bingo. That pretty much sums it up, haha. :) Will
willald 08/17/15 09:53am General RVing Issues
RE: Heads up if you use Aqua-Kem "toss-ins"

Hehe, threads like this, where folks suggest that no chemicals should ever be used 'cause black or grey tank should never have an odor, really make me laugh. To those that say the tanks should never have an odor, so no need for chemicals: Enjoy living in your dream world, where everything always works perfect and ideal. However, do know that one day something WILL go wrong for you, too - a seal will wear out, a check valve will get clogged (that you can't easily fix on the fly), a sewer hose will spring a leak....And your dream world will come crashing (stinking!) down around you. :) Its another example of idealism vs reality here. Yes, in an ideal, perfect world where nothing wears out or breaks and everything always works perfectly, yes, RV holding tanks should not ever have an odor. HOWEVER, reality is that none of us really live in that world. In the REAL world, where things wear out and/or break, people make mistakes, and the perfect, permanent solution to a problem often cannot be implemented right away.....Yes, odors can and DO on occasion escape from the tanks, and it can stinketh badly. When (not if) that happens to you, you will wish very much that you were using chemicals, if you were not. So will those camping around you (or those in line behind you at a dump station, haha!) THAT is why chemicals of some form are a good idea. That way, if odors do escape from the tank on occasion, it will not be as bad to deal with. Sometimes, things just happen - a seal wears out and you aren't in a good position, place to repair it immediately, a black tank vent line gets clogged, or a sewer hose leaks just a few drops of nasty stuff when dumping (and it only takes a very few drops to have quite the nasty smell if no chemicals are being used, haha). I agree, though, that it is very questionable how much chemicals help with breakdown of solid 'waste'. And, one does have to be careful which chemicals they use, so as not to damage a campground's septic system or cause other environmental issues. However, there are several good products out there that provide good odor control, without harming septic systems or the environment. That is why I use a chemical called Odorlos - To prevent/minimize the odor, so that if odors do escape from the tank on occasion, it will not be as bad. And, I can tell you from personal experience of having a mishap when dumping the tanks once (don't ask for any more details, haha), that this Odorlos stuff DOES drastically reduce the odor. In some cases, it eliminates the odor entirely. I won't camp without it, no matter what the 'GEO method' folks say. :) Poop stinks, bottom line. If it didn't, there'd be something very seriously wrong with the person that 'produced' it, haha. :) When you store stuff that stinks that badly just under your floor in a plastic holding tank for long periods, then manually dump it via a vinyl sewer hose...There are going to be lots of opportunities for that odor to escape. THAT is why chemicals are a good idea, as 'insurance' for when (not if) things don't work perfectly.
willald 08/17/15 08:47am General RVing Issues
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 14  

New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2015 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS