..As already said, this is normal and to be expected, if you bought from an RV dealer that does not have the expertise, equipment, etc. to handle chassis or drivetrain issues. Not all RV dealerships are equipped to handle such things.
Haha, would you rather he have his techs 'wing it' and just to try to make you happy, and try to diagnose and fix issues with a drivetrain they have no clue how to work on? Can you just imagine how badly that could turn out, and how much more upset you'd be?
We bought our MH from a fairly small RV dealer. I believe they can do some basic chassis work, but not everything. If I ever have a chassis related problem (engine, tranny, suspension, etc.), I will probably call and ask our dealer first if they can look at it. However, I also know they will probably say they aren't equipped to handle such, and will refer me to a Ford dealer. Thats OK, though, 'cause I have a good relationship with our local Ford dealer (just bought a car from them, haha), and they've told me on numerous occasions they'd be glad to handle any service issues I have with the MH. :)
Dutch makes an excellent point - using a free Google voice number that forwards to your cell phone, you get exactly the same thing as Towpal offers, yet at basically zero cost.
LOL, why pay $$ (whether it be for $35 or $49 a year) for something you can so easily set up for free? :)
..Towpal does seem pretty cool, but not sure its worth the $$, for nothing more than a message forwarding system. As already alluded to, there are cheaper ways to accomplish the same thing.
As to the specific circumstance here: Thats why most MHs are equipped with rear view camera and monitor. One glance at the rear view monitor should have made it very clear that something was VERY wrong with the tow bar, and an immediate stop to check it out was in order.
Anyway, glad it all worked out in this case, and that Blue Ox is taking care of it. :)
I found a local shop that only does hitch work. They said bring it by and they can easily determine what will work best and advise me from there.
Thank you for all the thoughts and concerns. I am going to leave this project to the professionals and see what they can come up with...
Sounds like a great plan. Please let us know what they tell you, and what you end up doing. I'm curuious to see what the professionals say on this. Don't let the 'safety police' on here discourage you from posting back on this.
Yup, don't bother to stay within the towing limits of your coach. And, if you have an accident, hope you can explain to police and insurance company why you exceeded the legal limits of your vehicle (they are smart enough to ask).
'legal' limits? LOL, the only 'legal' limit in most cases is defined by the DOT limits on the roads you're on (typically 20,000 lbs per axle, not something you have to worry about). Or in some cases, the max. amount of weight your vehicle is registered for with DMV.
GCWR, and GVWR limits, contrary to popular belief, and contrary to the MYTHs that keep getting spread on here, are NOT legal limits. They are purely RECOMMENDATIONS from the manufacturer. No more.
Insurance? LOL, lets PLEASE not start spreading that ridiculous MYTH again, suggesting that insurance can deny a claim if they find you are exceeding a manufacturer's RECOMMENDED maximum weight. That urban mythological bit of nonsense just needs to die.
Having said that....Like other posters have alluded to, you do need to take several factors into consideration before just swapping a 5k receiver for a 10k receiver. Frame/chassis strength, weight balance/distribution, and axle,tire weight ratings to name a few. However, paranoia spread on internet forums about non-existant 'legal' limits is not one of them.
..One last, and final update to this topic: Readybrake cable, and Readystop break-away was installed on the Fusion today. It was not an easy job. There was/is very, very little room to work under the hood of the Fusion hybrid with all the components it has. The tech worked on it most of the day, but got it done. He did a great job, too, I'm very happy with it. Was not cheap, but was much cheaper than purchasing one of the electronic systems.
Sooo, I can use my ReadyBrute tow bar and Readybrake system on both vehicles, so I'm just as happy as a pig in slop. :)
I'm ready to hit the road, and will be soon. :)
Yes, a mechanical system can fail also. However, a mechanical system can be visually checked for wear and impending failure. An electrical system can't. Many of us can also repair a mechanical system if wear is found (or it breaks). I doubt that there are many that can do that on an electrical system.
Exactly. Also, just about anything that can break on a Readybrake system, parts can be bought at any hardware store for $20 or less to fix it. You won't fix an electronic system that easy.
It IS true, that any system can fail or break, eventually. However, like I said, due to the way the Readybrake is designed, it is just about impossible for it to ever fail in a way that would cause it to over-brake your toad, like electronic systems are known to do.
You may disagree with that, but if you do some searches on various internet forums, you'll find them littered with cases like the one here, of electronic systems over-braking and doing major damage to toad vehicles. However, I've yet to find any cases ever of a Readybrake system ever over-braking a toad (once installed correctly).
Ahh, I see.
Well, its your choice, obviously, but I have to say this: If we knew were going to have to rent a car every time we camped, and had to deal with that expense, hassle, etc. on every trip....I seriously, seriously dobut we ever would have ever made the step up from a truck and TT (towable RV) up to the Motorhome. Just would not have been worth it for us, and we would have stuck with the truck and TT.
If you're going to have to rent a car anywhere you go and deal with that, suddenly the towable RV approach looks a lot more appealing, as you already have your own vehicle with you to get around in.
That said, I do understand your apprehension about tow dollies. They definitely have their downsides (we did the dolly thing very briefly before going to 4 down).
Still, if setting up your Honda to tow 4 down is not an option....You'd probably be $$ ahead in the long run by just getting a dolly or a flatbed trailer and live with it for a while (instead of renting). Later, when your Honda wears out and you'd be buying a new vehicle anyway, you could then buy a vehicle that is flat towable, and sell the dolly or trailer and get some of that $$ back.
Thanks guys...no dolly for me....it's 4 down or nothing....I've read too much negative stuff on the dollys ...thanks again for the comments..we have a trip planned for PEI in July and will probably rent a car...
Hehe, I'm a bit confused. In your initial post, you said you don't want to tow 4 down because of conversion to your Honda. Now, you say no dolly, its 4 down or nothing? Which way is it? :)
If you have decided now (with the 2nd post) that you only want to do 4 down, then you may or may not be able to use your Honda Accord.
Check with Remco's towing guide, see what they say about towing your Honda Accord. If its not a manual transmission, towing it 4 down may well not be an option. Or, it may require a modification or two to the Honda (tranny lube pump, or maybe driveshaft disconnect).
Anyway, good luck whatever you decide. :)
After reading this post and others like it it sure seems like the use of any electronic braking in the toad is asking for trouble. Without the addition of more electronic monitoring equipment with more chances of a failure and the added cost and complexity, it seems like a constant worry going down the road.
There has to be better and much simpler ways of doing it. Probably cheaper also.
Yes, there is a simpler and (much) cheaper way. Several of us have mentioned it in this thread, and many times in other threads when this subject comes up - ReadyBrake. Simple, cable-operated brake system, no electronics at all. Just simply works, and (once installed and set up right), is just about impossible for it to ever over-brake your toad (unlike some electronic systems are known to do).
Oh, and costs less than half what others cost. If you get the integrated 'Readybrute Elite' tow bar and brake system, its even less cost compared to any other system, since you get a tow bar and complete braking system for what you'd pay for just a tow bar of any other brand (saves a good $1k or more right there).
Surely there are people how love the electronic systems....
..I think its a case like so many other things: There are many that have been using the electronic system without any issues for years and years, thats all they've basically known. Its always worked good for them, so naturally they're going to sing the praises of the units they've had good luck with. We all do that.
For someone buying a new system now, though...Pretty tough to beat what Readybrake gives you, and how much simpler and trouble free it is.
(original poster) owns a MotorhomeClass C dually.
Right. I believe a Class C dually classifies as a Motorhome. :)
Previous poster makes a great point - 120V is usually available on most motorhomes, either by firing up the genny or with an inverter. That may be a better solution.
...As others have suggested, at LEAST 18 volts would have a better chance. In my opinion better to spend more money and be satisfied than $50 for something that probably won't work for your purposes. Over the years I have had 4 different air impacts that were rated about the same torque, and they were NOT equal in actual use, hence my statement above. I suspect the battery powered would also vary depending on the manufacturer.
..Problem with cordless battery operated units is, now you have one more battery to have to keep charged, replace every so often when it wears out, etc.
If its for something you use regularly (like for stabilizer jacks), thats not a problem. However, for something that will rarely be used (for emergencies) like is the case here, being able to use your MH's 12V power supply (or possibly 120V) is much more practical.
You think the battery in that cordless unit is going to have any power at all, when its been sitting for a few years and you get it out at the side of the road when you have a flat? Nope, it won't. Now, you have to sit at the side of the road for another 1/2 hour or so to charge it before you can do anything.
With a 12V powered unit, you can just connect it to your MH's 12V power supply and get to work. No extra batteries to have to keep charged or replace. I'm betting thats why the OP mentioned 12 volts.
..I think several are missing the point, question that the OP asked. He (original poster) owns a Motorhome, not a TT or 5er. He asked about 12V impact drill/wrench, specifically for the purpose of handling the lug nuts on his Motorhome.
He did not ask about cordless drills that can be used to work stabilizer jacks. Such would be pretty much worthless for what he wants to do here.
This is a subject I'm interested in as well, actually. I've been thinking about getting a 12V impact as well, one thats strong enough to take the lugs loose on our Class A MH. Specs call for 165 ft-lbs of torque on the lug nuts, but I'm sure it will take a lot more than that to break them loose.
Here's a Kawasaki 12V impact wrench at Northern Tool I've been thnking about. However, not sure if 280 ft-lbs will be enough, to take off the lugs on a Class A?
If You are the First Person with this Vehicle to have it rigged for towing ,You may qualify for a Free Install!
Contact Roadmaster or whoever makes the Tow Bar that You want to buy to see if They are currently looking for a New model Installation " Test case " or whatever it is called!
I looked into that, but I seem to recall the big 'catch' to that is that you have to bring your car to them. Depending on where you live, that could be more hassle than its worth (not to mention the fact that you're basically serving as their 'guinea pig' in that case. Not sure I'd like that).
..Well, whatever you do to address this, I'd look into installing some kind of independant indicator (LED light?) on your MH dash, and wire it to the brake switch on your toad somehow. That way, you'll know exactly when the toad brakes are being applied and released. I always recommend this, regardless what brake system you use.
..I will say also, that what happened to you here is the primary reason why I do not trust, and want nothing to do with any 'electronic box' type of brake system. Just too much potential for major damage to be done to the brakes. Real bad part is (as you found out), unless you install an independant brake indicator like I mentioned above, frequenly you won't know anything is wrong until major damage is already done. Your toad is typically sooo much smaller than the MH, the MH can drag the toad's brakes all day and you may or may not even notice.
I agree 100% with the earlier recommendation to get a Readybrake. Readybrake is only system I'll have. No electronics to foul up and damage your brakes. No way at all, really, for it (Readybrake) to ever over-brake your toad (as long as its initially installed and set up correctly). No electronics, nothing to put in and take out, and real simple one time cable installation on the toad. Just a simple, no-nonsense, cable operated surge braking system that simply works.
I think your best bet is, as one of the first replys stated, get a TT and a big SUV. Ride is safer, and live in the TT when you arrive.
Bingo. Its a knownm, undeniable fact, that a truck or SUV towing an RV trailer is much, much safer than almost any motorized RV (motorhome). The truck or SUV provides more safety to its occupants than is realistically possible for almost any MH to be able to provide. If you're 'paranoid' about safety, then you need to just get a towable RV and be done with it.
I accepted and know full well that the day we traded our TT and SUV for a Motorhome, that I was trading some safety in return for much more convenience and luxury. Given all the convenience and luxury the MH provides, and the fact we're only on the road in it maybe 5,000 miles a year....I accept that risk.
That said, there are several things you can do to mitigate that risk to yourself and your passengers. Insist everyone wears seatbelts, drive more conservatively, keep up on all maintenance of the coach, etc.
If you're worried enough about safety that you're considering doing major work to a class C to beef it up like the OP initially suggested....IMO you're better off to just get a towable RV and truck/SUV and be done with it.
Well, was just looking at a product I saw some time ago, Dually Valves. I did not realize until now when looking closer at them, that they are complete replacements for the valves, not just extensions. Initially thought they were just valve extensions when I looked at them before, so wasn't very interested.
I think this will solve the problem permanently, since they are valve replacements, not extensions. The U shaped piece for the outer will not be able to twist, loosen and leak with these Duallyvalves, either. Also looks like they'd allow you to check and top off air without having to remove the wheel cover (right?)
I just may have to order me a set of these, and be done with it. Will prevent this problem from ever happening again. $120 for these valves, plus whatever for installation, would be a LOT cheaper than having to replace even one of these tires prematurely!!
Did the tire guy inspect or say anything about the inner tire that had been run with twice the normal load for some unknown distance?
Knew that was coming. Was going to mention it in initial post, but that first post was already too long-winded. :)
I've heard from several truckers, and the tire guy told me the same thing: The inner dual tire typically does most of the load handling, anyway. The outer dual is mostly for stability. Losing an outer dually tire for a short distance does NOT necessarily mean the inner has to be replaced (contrary to what some may tell you).
Given that the outer looked to be like new both inside and out, and showed no signs of any sidewall wear at all, he was pretty certain that it had not been flat for very long at all. Not long enough for the extra load on the inner dual to be a concern.
Please keep in mind, also, that this guy brought with him a tire of the same size/brand I have. Obviously it was in his best interest to have tried to convince me I needed to replace a tire (or two) if it was in any way needed. He did not, though. He only charged me a small fee for the labor to take off, examine, and re-inflate the one tire, that was it.
I have Link Cat's Eye equalizers, with braided hoses, and have used them for 100k+ miles, (11 years):
They make checking and maintaining the pressures of dual tires a "no brainier".
I've looked at a few of those devices, too. Definitely has its merits, but I'm still not real crazy about them, for two reasons basically:
1. Can cause outer wheel/tire to be out of balance, resulting in more vibrations.
2. Under some conditions, it pretty much defeats one of the best advantages duals have, of being two separate tires. If one tire leaks down, under the right conditions, something like that Cats Eye system will allow BOTH tires to leak down. Could make the situation much worse, cause you to have to replace two tires instead of one.
I just have straight air fittings on my outside dual. I use a truckers tire gauge to check pressures.
That was/is what I would prefer as well, and what I tried to do when we first got the MH.
However, I've found that for whatever reason, due to the size, design of the wheels on mine...NONE of the trucker's tire gauges will work. Just can't get one with the right angle to get to those valve stems on the outer dual (and I've tried several!)
That, and even if you do get a gauge that will work, you still have to find an air chuck that will attach to it, when you need to add a little air.