RE: Readybrake may not be an option. What to do..
If I can run the cable for a Honda Fit, I can't imagine a problem with something bigger. I'm with Dutch.
Well, your Honda Fit isn't a hybrid, so doesnt have the electric motor, eCVT transmission, and all the other hybrid related electrical components under the hood to deal with.
Regardless, from what I can see under the hood, I think it may be possible to install the RB cable on the Fusion. Its going to be a bit of work, though. More work than the guy I talked to at the RV dealership wanted to do I believe, haha.
Challenge is, finding a good mechanic I can trust that is willing to do that work (without damaging anything, haha). Still working on that..
Will
RE: Newer entry level DP bunkhouses?
...
One floorplan aspect I can never get past with DP motorhomes, regardless of price or any other issue, that really rules it out for us: We really, really like having a window on the back wall of the bedroom. I've yet to ever see ANY diesel pusher model that offers that. I guess it has something to do with the engine being back there, and the air intake being inside that back wall? I dunno, but it pretty much means we'll always own a gasser MH of some form.
Will
That's not only on DPs; most modern gas class As do not have rear windows.
Just looking real quick at floorplans by various manufacturers:
Fleetwood: only some models of Storm have it. The rest (Southwind, Bounder, Bounder Classic, Terra) don't
Tiffin: none have it
Newmar: none have it
Winnebago : one Sightseer has it, one Vista has it, one Adventurer has it but the rest don't (i.e. about 90% of their floorplans don't have it)
Forest River: most models have it
Thor: most models have it
Monaco: some LaPalmas and some Monarchs have it.
Welll, I'm not sure its accurate to say 'most' modern gas class A's don't have the rear window. Especially since your own list here that shows several (most FR and THOR models) do have it.
I think whether or not the back window is there on gasser MHs has much more to do with floorplan design than anything else. However, it appears with DPs that its pretty near impossible to do, regardless of floorplan design.
Hence the reason, like I said, there probably will never be a DP motorhome in our driveway. :)
Will
RE: Ready Brute Elite or Ready Brake on 2013 Honda CRV
..You posted on my other thread, where I have a very similar dilemma - Already own Readybrake, really want to use it on our 2nd toad, but RV dealer says no can do (as I said in that thread, I don't believe him, haha).
Here's what I'm going to (and am doing) now: I'm taking the DVD, and documentation/instructions that came with Readybrake. Going to give it to Ford dealer as well as a few other reputable repair shops I know, see if any of them are willing to install it. Like already said, it does NOT have to be an 'official' Readybrake authorized shop. ANY good mechanic should be able to do it (although I'd prefer one that knows the particular vehicle well, hence the reason I'm going to try the Ford dealer first).
Since it would cost me over $1000 to get another brake system, even if I have to pay for several hours of a mechanic's labor to install Readybrake, I'm still ahead of the game.
RE: What is the best Tow/Brake set up for a Towed Vehicle?
At least if the unlikely event of a break away ever occurs, I know my toad's brakes will be locking up to possibly prevent a disaster. A toad with a Ready brake will be veering to God only knows where.
While we are playing the "WHAT IF" game, what do you suppose would happen if your toad broke away, and the brakes locked, on a California freeway at 55 MPH (the legal limit for combination vehicles)? Consider the poor soccer mom behind you, with her SUV full of kids, who suddenly has YOUR towed vehicle screeching to a stop right in front of her! All four lanes are pretty much bumper-to-bumper, and she has no place to go! She hits your toad, the car behind her hits her, and so on.
If your towed vehicle breaks away, the result isn't going to be pretty, no matter what! Brakes or no brakes, it really doesn't matter!
In fact, it could be said that the ONLY truly SAFE thing is to never tow a vehicle four down!
I don't think anybody is ready to do THAT!!
Well, Mowermech, all of that is a moot point, anyway, because RedG's statement about Readybrake not having break-away is completely false, anyway. Guess he didn't see their Readystop product.
..Just another example of folks spouting off on online forums, without knowing all the facts. Happens a lot.
Will
RE: What is the best Tow/Brake set up for a Towed Vehicle?
...While a mechanical system may or may not be as reliable as an electronic system, the mechanical system can be checked for wear----------an electronic system can't...
Exactly right. One other thing to consider, which is the main reason I prefer a Readybrake system over any electronic system:
Readybrake, once it is installed and set up correctly, it is practically impossible for it to ever 'over-brake' your toad, and burn up its brakes. Just won't happen. Worst case, if a cable breaks, you may not have toad braking until you can fix that (which BTW in most cases can be repaired with parts you can find at any hardware store). Regardless, you will NEVER over-brake your toad with a Readybrake.
The same cannot be said for electronic systems. Seen many a case on here where those systems malfunction, drag the brakes, and cost several thousand in damage to toad brakes. Worst thing is, in many cases you won't even know until major damage is done.
Oh, and concerning multiple toads: Only thing you have to install on the toad, is a cable from brake pedal to front bumper. Pretty simple installation. Costs $159 for extra cable and Readystop for a 2nd toad. LOL, with the $1000 spent (wasted) on an electronic box system that you don't have to spend on a Readybrake...You could set up 5 or 6 different toads with the Readybrake system, and STILL be $$ ahead. And, have nothing to have to put in or take out each time you tow. :)
Will
RE: Newer entry level DP bunkhouses?
Didn't care for the Tiffin. I know it's a Tiffin but I just didn't care for it. Looked at the Winie 35 b. nice coach. I have been pouring over reviews, you tube vids, websites, etc for several days. I keep coming back to the Palazzo despite the higher cost. It just really seems very nice for the price and has a "feel" that just seems right if that makes sense. You know when something hits you. More looking, more research...
Yep, know that 'feel'. Sounds like a Palazzo may be in your future. :)
One floorplan aspect I can never get past with DP motorhomes, regardless of price or any other issue, that really rules it out for us: We really, really like having a window on the back wall of the bedroom. I've yet to ever see ANY diesel pusher model that offers that. I guess it has something to do with the engine being back there, and the air intake being inside that back wall? I dunno, but it pretty much means we'll always own a gasser MH of some form.
Will
RE: What is the best Tow/Brake set up for a Towed Vehicle?
Isn't the Readybrake baiscally a surge brake? One thing I've always been concerned about in a surge brake is burning up the brakes on a long down hill grade. Seems like the tow brakes would be activiated continiously.
Brian
..This is one of those 'urban myth' type things, that was true many years ago with surge brake systems, but is not true with modern surge brake systems.
I do know for a fact (as I have personally witnessed, tested with mine), that the Readybrake system is designed to prevent brake dragging from ever happening. I have watched our brake light indicator on the MH dash when descending long downhill grades. Only time Readybrake engages the brake, is when I hit the MH brakes. And, thats with a 4500 lb minivan for a toad. :)
Will
RE: What is the best Tow/Brake set up for a Towed Vehicle?
While I agree that the ReadyBrake Elite System is pretty bullet proof, it is a surge braking system, not fully proportional.
The InvisiBrake System, also by Roadmaster, is fully proportional....
While I agree that the Readybrake system is not truly proportional, I'd also like to point out that despite what sales and marketing ads for various systems would have you believe....Very few toad braking systems are truly proportional, in the true sense of the word (and Invisibrake is not one of them).
For someone buying both a tow bar and braking system initially, and can get both in an integrated setup like ReadyBrake for around $1000, whereas a Blue Ox setup and separate braking system like Invisibrake would cost more like $2000 (plus more installation labor involved)....Is having a system that is more proportional (but not truly proportional) AND introduces more electronics (read: more potential ways to fail) really worth over $1000 more? IMO, no, but to each their own.
Will
RE: Newer entry level DP bunkhouses?
Since you're looking and asking about gasser bunkhouse motorhomes, you may want to also consider TIffin's Allegro 35QBA, as well as Winnebago or Itasca's bunkhouse model (can't remember the model number). There's probably a few others as well, but I can't remember them.
As far as noise goes: Like you said, can't really believe the reviews. Best thing to do is take each unit for a test drive, and decide for yourself which one(s) are quiet enough for your liking.
..Only one other very minor point, I'd like to clarify:
...all have similar wheelbases (208).
Even though all the documentation states that the Georgetown 351DS has a 208" wheelbase, as one that owns one and physically measured it, I'm here to tell you its actually a 228" wheelbase. I think Forest River got their documentation mixed up some time ago and just didn't update it. Not sure about the others, but I know for a fact our Georgetown 351DS has a 228" wheelbase.
RE: What is the best Tow/Brake set up for a Towed Vehicle?
I highly, highly recommend the Readybrake.
You just can't beat it - Tow bar and brake system all integrated in one package, for about the same price as you'd pay for a tow bar alone from Blue Ox or others (saves over $1000 right there, from what you'd pay having to buy a separate braking system).
And, you get what is arguably about as good as it gets for a braking system - no electronics to fail and burn up your brakes, nothing to drain toad battery. Nothing to have to put in or take out every time. Very simple, straightforward one time installation (nothing but a cable going from brake pedal to front of toad).
If you don't have a tow bar yet and are buying all that now, IMO it really is a no-brainer - get the ReadyBrute Elite tow bar I linked to above, that comes with the Readybrake system. No point in spending $1000 more just for something more complicated, that has more potential to fail and do damage.
RE: Readybrake may not be an option. What to do..
Routing issues for the cable aside, have you looked into the possible issue of the hybrid's active braking system causing problems with the ReadyBrake? When I looked into installing a system in my Escape Hybrid my research indicated that I would need to go with one of the electronic systems with a pressure reducer. Maybe the Fusion has a way to disable active braking prior to towing.
Yes, and that is not an issue at all. Its actually the exact opposite - Active braking is one of the reasons to stay with Readybrake, as its operation is not really affected by whether or not you have active braking on all the time, vacuum assist, or just a 'dead pedal'.
Since the Readybrake is basically a surge based system, it only activates the brakes until the toad is no longer 'pushing' on the MH enough to activate the brake. Having active braking like a hybrid does, only means that Readybrake won't have to pull as hard on the peda, before the car is slowed enough to release the actuator arm and the toad's brake pedal.
If I am forced to go to a 'magic electric box' type brake system instead of Readybrake, then, yes, the Hybrid's active braking becomes an issue, and I'd have to take that into consideration, in which system I went with.
I'm really, really hoping it doesnt come to that, though. LOL, those other brake systems cost soooo much, I'd be $$ ahead installing the Readybrake, even if I had to pay for a good 8 or 9 hours of technician labor to install it, haha. :)
Will
Readybrake may not be an option. What to do..
...We've been flat-towing DW's car (Kia Sedona van) for a year now, using the ReadyBrute Elite tow bar with integrated ReadyBrake system. Has worked great, and I've said numerous times when this subject comes up, ReadyBrake is just about the only system I'll have, for several reasons. You just can't beat its simplicity, cost, and the fact it simply works, period.
Anyway, we recently traded my daily driver for a 2013 Ford Fusion Hybrid, and are in the process of setting it up to tow behind our MH as well. We want to have the option to tow either of them, and actually prefer towing the Fusion, as it is simpler, less trouble prone (no lube pump to deal with like the van has), and much more fun to drive. :)
Wiring and base plates are done on the Fusion. Had to wire a 2nd 6-round plug on back of MH for the Fusion since it needs a charge wire (and does not use lube pump like our van), but that was easy enough to do. Now, time to get supplemental braking set up.
Obviously, my plan is/was to order a 2nd ReadyBrake cable (just the cable that goes on the car) and install it and a 'ReadyStop' breakaway setup on the Fusion.
However, I just got some really bad news, that I still don't want to believe: Brought the Fusion to RV dealer (same one that installed ReadyBrake on our van), had him look the Fusion over to see if ReadyBrake can be installed on it. He says, no can do. Steering column placement, as well as general design of the firewall make it impossible. Waaaaaah! :(
Anyway, I'm working now on getting a '2nd opinion' from another dealer, and have a '3rd opinion' possibility as well I may pursue. I'm a bit suspicious that the technician I talked to first simply did NOT want to do the Readybrake install since it would be a bit more difficult, or maybe was trying to 'encourage' me to spend a ton more $$ with them on one of the 'magic electric box' type systems - RVi, SMI, Invisibrake, Patriot, etc.
I've already talked with ReadyBrake (Night Shift Auto) about this, but basically got no answers from them. They *claim* it should work, and that they have customers with 2013 Ford Fusions using their product. They could not give any more specifics than that, though, other than to point me to some of their dealers/installers in this area. I've contacted those dealers, they couldn't provide any information, either (although one is still looking into it). Thinking about taking the DVD, instructions, etc. for Readybrake to the Ford dealer, and see if they'd be willing to install it (thoughts?)
It absolutely makes me SICK, the thought of having to spend $1k or more and have two different braking systems (one for each vehicle). Especially since I really want nothing to do with the 'magic electric box' type systems. Would almost rather do without supplemental braking with the Fusion entirely, than to get one of those systems, haha!
Sooooo, my question is this: Is there ANYONE, ANYWHERE out there towing a Ford Fusion hybrid, that installed a ReadyBrake system on it? If so, please PM or respond here, I'd love to know just how it was done, where the cable was run through the firewall, etc. It seems like it could be done by running the cable just to the side of the brake pedal arm (same way it was done on our van), but not real sure.
Second question: To those like me, that prefer the Readybrake for its simplicity and really don't want any other system: If you were forced to either buy another system or do without toad braking, which would you do? What system would you get, if any, if Readybrake was simply not an option?
Oh, and before anyone starts down this path: I've read (and read, and read, LOL) all the threads 'debating' about why supplemental brake systems are or are not necessary. Please, lets not let this turn into one of those debates. :)
RE: Newer entry level DP bunkhouses?
...We want real bunks instead of the overhead drop down. I want a single bath instead of split. I want a real pull out sofa instead of a jackknife....a little bigger, not much maybe 35'
You are describing here almost exactly what we wanted (required) from the get-go on our first MH we bought over a year ago, and you see what we went with (see signature). I'd buy the exact same unit again, if was doing it over again.
Sounds like you are in a similar dilemma we were/are - Need bunks, would prefer somewhat newer model, but don't want to break the bank in the process (wanted to be well under $100k). That pretty much ruled out DPs of any variety for us.
Also, we haven't seen where the ride on our gasser is as bad as so many DP owners make it out to be. Ours handles great. Perhaps the longer length, wheelbase of a 36' unit vs the smaller Thor Ace unit makes a difference, I don't know. You are right, though, that a DP is in a whole different class when it comes to ride quality (but you sure PAY for that ride quality!!)
..If someone knows of a gasser that handles like a DP I would love to know..
I don't have personal experience with such, but how about a gasser MH with a complete Kelderman air suspension upgrade done to it (front and back)?
You could buy a very nice, brand spanking new 35' Gasser bunkhouse MH that'd fit all your other requirements, spend another 10k on such a suspension upgrade, and STILL would have spent waaaaay less $$ than what you're talking about spending on that Thor Palazzo DP. Might be something to think about.
RE: ST verses LT Tires
Ahh, I see some things never change, and some debates never end. :)
I think one big piece to this thats not being mentioned: ST tires, since they are designated for use on trailers and non-passenger carrying vehicles, do not have to meet anywhere near as many safety standards, testing requirements, etc. that is required of P and LT tires that are used on passenger-carrying vehicles.
Because of this, they (ST tires) can be manufactured cheaper, bottom line. And, many manufacturers take advantage of this, and make ST tires cheaply, plain and simple. This is one of the reasons (of many) we see so many failures of ST tires. Many of them are just not made as well, plain and simple.
Sitting for months at a time in the sun, being pushed to their absolute limit on weight and speed, and not always being inflated properly definitely contribute to all the failures as well (although nobody will admit to these, especially the last one).
You're kind of over a barrel, really. You really, really need to use ST tires on a trailer, as LT or P rated tires are not designed to handle the flexing, twisting, etc. that trailers do to tires. But, with soo many manufacturers making ST tires so cheaply and failure prone (mostly the ones that say 'made in China' on the side), what are we to do?
Answer: Find (and buy from) a tire manufacturer thats known for making quality ST tires and not taking the 'short cuts' the safety requirements allow for ST tires. When we owned a towable RV, Maxxis had the best track record, and seemed to make a really good quality ST tire (hint: Maxxis tires do NOT say 'made in China' on the side). Thats all we used on our RV trailers, and we never once had a tire problem, in 13 years of towing.
RE: Towing with a full car trailer
An added bonus after I switched from flat towing to a car trailer.
It has come in very, handy the last couple years for all sorts of stuff. Hauling long loads of lumber, rental yard equipment, pallet of blocks, etc. etc.
Oh, no doubt, I can think of SEVERAL uses I'd have for a flatbed trailer when not towing the car! Especially, if it had 'loops' to allow you to put stakes and walls along the sides. :)
I seriously thought a few times about going to a flatbed trailer, but just can't get past all the PITA it creates of having yet one more (really large) piece of hardware to deal with at the campsite, and when unhitching and hitching up.
If they ever make a trailer that could fold up and be out of the way (kinda like the one John & Angela on here use for their smart car), yet could handle a decent sized car (4000 lbs or so)...I'd probably get one and go that route.
Will
RE: Towing with a full car trailer
Hope this works
http://tinypic.com/r/29deiqs/4
Thanks, crimmps49. Your picture shows pretty clearly how it was done, and answers my question. Basically, they added a crossmember between the frame rails, and welded a piece onto it that goes down vertically and attaches directly to the receiver tube, to re-inforce the tube and keep it from 'twisting' as much under a lot of weight.
Do you recall, who it was that did that work for you? And maybe, if you don't mind me asking, how much $$ it cost?
Have you noticed any affect on the handling of the rig, with that much tongue weight resting on the back and possibly 'unloading' the front axle of the MH? Has it caused the front of the MH to feel 'lighter', or more bouncy?
Will
RE: Towing with a full car trailer
..It is an aluminum trailer and motorhome hitch was modified by reinforcing frame..
Can you provide more specifics, of just how you reinforced the frame for this? This topic has come up before a few times, and never has anyone been able to get any specifics, of just what needs to be done to beef up the hitch reciever, MH frame, etc. to handle more than 5000 lbs and 500 tongue weight.
..We are under our weight limitations fully loaded.
Meaning, you are under the 5000/500 limitation, or under other limits, possibly specified by whoever did your frame reinforcements?
Will
RE: Who uses GPS?
..like DW likes to say, our GPS is my brain, haha. That, and we use Google Maps and MapQuest to plan our trips. Paper maps as a backup to all of that.
I may get a GPS one day, but so far have avoided such. Seen way too many people (including close friends) become hopelessly dependant (read: addicted) to them. Seen folks end up in places they never intended to be after GPS leads them on 'wild goose chase'. Also seen them get to where they can't follow simple directions someone gives them (or read a simple map), as they can only use their GPS to get ANYWHERE.
It seems that for many folks, using a GPS slowly erodes away their natural, God-given sense of direction, and they become totally dependant on the GPS to direct them. Its a case of becoming TOO dependant on technology, and I never want that to happen to us.
Typical example: Good friends of ours that live out of town, were once in our neck of the woods and wanted to visit. They are the type that never look up from their GPS hardly. We agree to meet at a particular restaurant, he needs to know how to get there, keeps asking me for a street address. I tell him, No, don't have a street address, just turn that #% GPS off, and listen: Take exit #blah off of the interstate, turn right, restaurant is there on the left, can't miss it. LOL, took a good 20 minutes to get it through to him that he needs to just turn that #% GPS off sometimes, and use his natural sense of direction. :)
As to how its any different with an RV: Its a toss-up, really. I can see where a GPS would be useful to keep you off of roads that could be really bad with a large RV (low overpasses, etc). That is, assuming it has and provides accurate information. OTOH, given some of the messes I've seen some (GPS addicted) folks get into....Those messes would be 10 times worse in an RV, where backing up or turning around may be much more difficult.
RE: Towing with a full car trailer
You might want to compare the cost of a towable vehicle versus the cost of the trailer and the money you could get selling the Ford.
You might be better off in several ways by just going with a towable toad - which could be a truck :).
...If you consider this, don't forget to also factor in all the $$ you'd have to spend setting up the towable vehicle you buy to tow. By the time you get the tow bar, base plates, tail light wiring, supplemental braking system...You can factor in another 2-3k into the mix. Possibly closer to 4k if you have someone else do the work.
That alone, will easily cost as much or probably more than a flatbed trailer will cost. Sooo, before you even factor in the (significant!) $$ lost in selling your car and buying another...You're already about even or probably ahead $$ wise, going with the trailer.
Unless you find a really, really good deal on a toad vehicle that is already set up for towing, and get a good deal on a used towbar setup...I don't believe you'd come out even remotely ahead in $$ by selling your car and buying a towable vehicle.
You're definitely thinking along the right lines, going with a trailer in your circumstance. If one day you do trade for a vehicle that is towable, you can then sell the trailer and get some of your $$ back, to help pay for setting up the new toad. :)
Will
RE: Experience with hauling bikes on rear hitch
We were just debating similar questions, in how to bring our 4 bikes with us. Initially was thinking of carrying on back of MH like you're talking about, but nixed that idea for various reasons and decided instead to put the bikes on back of our 'toad' (using a hitch receiver mounted rack). Just got the Thule (4 bike) rack last week, have only tested it once so far, but seems to work great.
Will the bikes get any less road dirt, grime being on the back of the toad vs back of MH? I don't know yet, will find out soon. Right now I am in the camp with those that say 'easier to clean off at destination than fool with a cover', so not going to mess with a cover at this point. With 4 bikes, a cover really isn't a realistic option for us, anyway.
As to why we chose not to mount bikes on back of MH: Two main reasons, really:
1. Bike rack interfered with tow bar we used for towing our vehicle. Made it difficult to stow/fold the tow bar, as well as got in the way of Actuator arm our tow bar (ReadyBrake) uses for braking.
2. We really, really wanted to be able to carry the bikes on our toad as well, for times when we want to bring the bikes to more remote places we don't want to bring the MH.
