RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'willald' found 77 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 4  
Prev
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Auto insurance vs good SAMs roadside in general

I too have Progressive Insurance on our RV. However, like previously said, I am just NOT convinced that they can provide the level of service in the event of a breakdown, that Good Sam ERS, Coachnet, or AAA plus can provide. Yes, Progressive or other auto insurance policies will re-imburse you for towing and other expenses after the fact. However, will they provide you a 800 number you can call anytime 24/7 nationwide, with someone on the line that can locate an appropriate towing service and repair shop, get them to you and get you taken care of when you're stuck in the middle of nowhere and have no idea who to even call? Do they have an entire network of RV specific providers, vendors, etc. that they can call on for you? Pretty sure the answer is no, in most cases. ..For that reason, I keep Good Sam ERS coverage as well. Have had to use them on two occasions, and they were great both times.
willald 08/21/15 08:07am General RVing Issues
RE: Question on sewer at full hook-up site

We have one of those slinky hose supports. Used to use it regulary, but now, not so much. Reason being: For us, it once caused a nasty mess. You see, the problem with those slinky hose supports, is that when you dump, and a bunch of 'stuff' rushes through your hose, unless you hose is stretched really well in reaching the sewer drain (something you can't do if your shortest hose is 10' and the drain is only a few feet away)...The rush of water will make the hose 'squirm'/expand. When that happens, I've had the hose squirm enough sometimes that it fell completely off the slinky support. One time, when it fell off, it twisted the hose enough that it popped right off of its connection to the RV, then we had a 'shower' of nasty stuff spewing out until I could close the valve back! Ugh!! (..That was also the day that I learned why its a VERY good idea to use black tank chemicals to reduce the smell of that 'stuff', and that the kind I was using, 'Odorlos', works very good at that, haha!) Since then, only time I use that slinky support is when the sewer connection is far enough away that I can stretch the hose enough to be sure that won't happen. The slinky support comes with several short rubber 'bands' to stretch across the hose to hold it in place. Problem is, those bands wear out very quickly, or fall off and get lost even easier. That, and you'd have to have at least a dozen of 'em to hold the hose well enough to keep it from 'squirming' off of the support. Its ironic - its a case where a 'law' in some places put in place to prevent a mess, creates the risk of creating an even BIGGER mess, as it did with us once. :) Anyway, we leave the hose connected up when we have a sewer connection, to allow for easy dumping of the gray tank every few days (with a family of 4 and all like to take a shower every day, gray tank fills up fast, haha!). Rarely use the hose support for the reason described above, and its never been a problem. I just have to remember after dumping, to pick the hose up to let it drain out. Takes just 5 extra seconds, and much easier than dealing with the mess that happend the day the hose popped off on me! And, no, I've never had the hose come off from where it goes into the sewer outlet when doing that. Thats why you put weights of some kind on that end, to prevent that from happening. I do like the idea some have discussed, of using a few sections of gutter to support the hose. I think a gutter would be 'deep' enough, that the hose could not squirm out like it does on the slinky support. Not sure that PVC pipe, or the contraption CW sells mentioned previously would prevent that from happening. One of these days, I may just go buy me a few sections of gutter from Lowe's, and build me a support that can be used without risking the hose falling off and causing a bigger problem. :) On a separate note: Why is it that any thread on the subject of sewer/'poop', gets sooo much attention here from everyone? 6 pages of posts already, in just 3 days. :)
willald 08/20/15 07:18am General RVing Issues
RE: opinions on this M/H

Your link doesn't work. I think you meant THIS Newmar coach. Oops, I see someone already corrected the link. The coach looks really nice, actually. I haven't looked its book value up to see, but that seems like a good price, too.
willald 08/19/15 01:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Towing without a car braking system??

For regulations by state, check out the website www.towingworld.com Supercub: Your state trooper buddy is correct for CA....almost. The reg's there require you to have protection for braking the vehicle in case of breakaway. The only way you're going to get that is with a supplemental braking system. Better safe than sorry, for sure. Towing world is lying to you in order to sell more products. Pretty much. Getting towing law information from ANY company involved in selling supplemental braking systems, is a lot like asking a car salesman whether you should buy a car from him or not. You pretty well know what he/she will say before you ask (and you also know that he/she is probably lying, haha). :) Will
willald 08/19/15 01:27pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Overheating Toad!

Well, this is embarrassing. When I did a quick subtraction of odometer readings after noticing there was even a difference, I got 12 miles, but after looking at my iPhone photos (I took pictures of the dash display since I didn't have a pen handy), I see that it's actually 312 miles, which is about how far I drove that day. So it must have been in "Ready to Drive" mode the entire time and didn't get enough airflow to keep cool. Fortunately, no damage was done. Well, at least this solves the mystery, and now we know what happened. Thanks for posting back, even though it was a bit embarrassing. I was curious about this one. Glad to hear that no damage was done. :) I might just leave it off altogether (i.e. not in Acc mode) to help avoid this in the future... ..Yeah, like already said, I would be very cautious about doing that. You don't know the specifics of why Ford instructs you to leave it in ACC mode, what electrical systems they may WANT to stay on when being towed that you may be shutting off. Nearly everything with these hybrids is electrically powered/controlled. I'd really hate to think that something like an electric lube pump for the transmission would get shut off when towing, if you didn't leave it in ACC mode. That was why I chose to install a charge line, and just leave it in ACC mode and not mess with pulling fuses when towing. These Ford hybrids are pretty complicated machines, haha. Unless you could get a good, thorough knowledge somewhere of what systems are on and what systems are off when in ACC mode, I'd be very hesitant to try shutting it completely off. By the way, I did install a charge line. It works great, with and without the engine running! Good, that's definitely very important for these hybrids. It pretty much eliminates the chances of you ever running a (12 volt) battery dead. :)
willald 08/18/15 02:55pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Jayco Class A's

Just bought a 2015 Jayco Class A 35 UP Picking it up next Thursday after going through orientation at the dealer. Any tips as to what I need to be on the look out for Like the layout can't wait to get it and get Rv ing But it seems like most everybody has some sort of complaint about the crafted ship of their unit be it an entry level or high end I'm sure you've heard this before, but I'll say it anyway: Any time you're buying an RV, you need to take the time, before driving away with it, to test out and make sure ALL systems are working to your satisfaction. Much easier to get issues addressed/fixed now while you have the full attention of the RV dealer and their service department. Yes, check everything, even the things you don't think about, won't typically use for a while. Make them show you that everything works, and how it works - generator, hydraulic jacks, air conditioners, furnace, electrical system components (converters, inverters, etc), water pump, holding tanks, drain valves, stove, oven, microwave, TVs, TV antenna.....That list goes on and on, but you get the idea. Much better to identify and get issues addressed now, than when you're out camping somewhere. Ayway, congrats on the new unit, I think you'll like it. The Jayco Class A units look nice, they offer some nice features that few other manufacturers do. And, they have 'bout the best warranty you can find anywhere with RVs, too (2 years - most others are only 1 year).
willald 08/18/15 07:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Heads up if you use Aqua-Kem "toss-ins"

However, that stink is contained, with the exception of the roof top vent and when a toilet is flushed. ..Or when the seals around the toilet wears out or fail, and you can't fix it immediately (like when camping). Or when the black tank vent line gets clogged. Or when the wind blows just the wrong way, and odors from that roof top vent make their way to the noses of your neighbors. Exactly! Those are some of the problems that will allow the stink to get inside the rv...and need to be repaired. My point exactly and what I have previously mentioned several times. Right, and my point is, like I mentioned previously, sometimes those things are going to happen at a time, place such that you cannot fix it 100% instantly. That is when and why you will be very glad you are using chemicals. Even when dumping the tank, the connections and hose are sealed with no openings to the outside. Sooo, how exactly does one 'seal' where the hose goes in/on the sewer drain/outlet at the campground? THIS is an example of the type of fitting/connection that should be used. LOL, thank you, you just proved my point with your link there. :) Look closely at the end of that Rhino fitting you linked to, where it goes down onto the sewer outlet. There is NOT going to be a completely air/gas tight seal there, no matter what you do. Only way to come close to that would be if you had a fitting that had threads (which that Rhino piece you linked to does not BTW), and you were lucky enough to have a sewer outlet that had the same diameter threads and the fitting could be snugly screwed onto it. That will not happen very often, though. ............. I just don't think that a well maintained rv will experience these kind of problems often enough to warrant constant dumping of chemicals in the black tank. Obviously you do and that's ok as it's your money, your rv. I think, if you had one or two unfortunate 'incidents' where some stuff spills out that you think never, ever can....You might see this differently. :) ...And, I think that is basically the crux of where you and I disagree. You just don't think there is enough risk of this happening to warrant using chemicals. I OTOH, believe that it does warrant such, provided that you use the right chemicals and use them properly. Like I said, its a lot like insurance. You have to decide which is worse: Paying the premiums, or risking having something bad happen without the insurance in place. Guess we'll just have to leave it at that, agree to disagree, and let everyone decide for themselves. :) Its a little bit like car insurance. If you ever actually need your car insurance...Something went wrong. Period. As long as nothing ever goes wrong on the road and you are an absolute PERFECT driver and live in your perfect little world where every other driver on the road is perfect...Insurance, like chemicals, would be a waste of money. However, for those of us that live in the real world where things can and do go wrong, not a fantasy world where nothing ever goes wrong....Black tank chemicals, like insurance, is a really good idea. :) Ok, now you're getting a little personal and is uncalled for. We are having a rational discussion and we obviously have different point of views. But you have no reason to try an belittle my opinions by saying I live in a little world full of fantasies... ...But, it was OK for you to belittle my opinion earlier in this post, when you said that I must be the newbie? How does that saying go about the pot and the kettle? :) Indeed, Ron, have a great day.
willald 08/17/15 09:46pm General RVing Issues
RE: Heads up if you use Aqua-Kem "toss-ins"

However, that stink is contained, with the exception of the roof top vent and when a toilet is flushed. ..Or when the seals around the toilet wears out or fail, and you can't fix it immediately (like when camping). Or when the black tank vent line gets clogged. Or when the wind blows just the wrong way, and odors from that roof top vent make their way to the noses of your neighbors. Even when dumping the tank, the connections and hose are sealed with no openings to the outside. Sooo, how exactly does one 'seal' where the hose goes in/on the sewer drain/outlet at the campground? I hope you aren't going to try and suggest that using a rubber donut or a weight holding the hose down gives you a perfect seal, as it does not. When you dump your tanks, some air/'gas' from in the tank is frequently going to get out, even if no liquid or solid does. Anyone that thinks otherwise...Hasn't been around RVs very much. :) (..And that's not even getting into how imperfect some sewer hose connections, fittings can be as they wear out, or the fact that sewer hoses can develop pinholes in them from time to time, neither of which will be noticed until it leaks out during use). Sooo, NO, the connections/hose are NOT necessarily 'sealed with no openings to the outside'. If you are experiencing an odor inside the rv, something is wrong. Period! No argument there, but my point was, the solution to whatever is wrong, in the REAL world in many cases is not something you can fix instantly, on the fly. Sometimes, you have to live with a bad smell from the black tank temporarily. And, you don't ever know when that could happen. That is why the chemicals are a good idea, so that when things don't work perfectly, you don't have a horrible smell to deal with (or at least not AS horrible). Its a little bit like car insurance. If you ever actually need your car insurance...Something went wrong. Period. As long as nothing ever goes wrong on the road and you are an absolute PERFECT driver and live in your perfect little world where every other driver on the road is perfect...Insurance, like chemicals, would be a waste of money. However, for those of us that live in the real world where things can and do go wrong, not a fantasy world where nothing ever goes wrong....Black tank chemicals, like insurance, is a really good idea. :) Will
willald 08/17/15 02:07pm General RVing Issues
RE: Heads up if you use Aqua-Kem "toss-ins"

....Nothing stops poop from stinking... Bingo. That pretty much sums it up, haha. :) Will
willald 08/17/15 09:53am General RVing Issues
RE: Heads up if you use Aqua-Kem "toss-ins"

Hehe, threads like this, where folks suggest that no chemicals should ever be used 'cause black or grey tank should never have an odor, really make me laugh. To those that say the tanks should never have an odor, so no need for chemicals: Enjoy living in your dream world, where everything always works perfect and ideal. However, do know that one day something WILL go wrong for you, too - a seal will wear out, a check valve will get clogged (that you can't easily fix on the fly), a sewer hose will spring a leak....And your dream world will come crashing (stinking!) down around you. :) Its another example of idealism vs reality here. Yes, in an ideal, perfect world where nothing wears out or breaks and everything always works perfectly, yes, RV holding tanks should not ever have an odor. HOWEVER, reality is that none of us really live in that world. In the REAL world, where things wear out and/or break, people make mistakes, and the perfect, permanent solution to a problem often cannot be implemented right away.....Yes, odors can and DO on occasion escape from the tanks, and it can stinketh badly. When (not if) that happens to you, you will wish very much that you were using chemicals, if you were not. So will those camping around you (or those in line behind you at a dump station, haha!) THAT is why chemicals of some form are a good idea. That way, if odors do escape from the tank on occasion, it will not be as bad to deal with. Sometimes, things just happen - a seal wears out and you aren't in a good position, place to repair it immediately, a black tank vent line gets clogged, or a sewer hose leaks just a few drops of nasty stuff when dumping (and it only takes a very few drops to have quite the nasty smell if no chemicals are being used, haha). I agree, though, that it is very questionable how much chemicals help with breakdown of solid 'waste'. And, one does have to be careful which chemicals they use, so as not to damage a campground's septic system or cause other environmental issues. However, there are several good products out there that provide good odor control, without harming septic systems or the environment. That is why I use a chemical called Odorlos - To prevent/minimize the odor, so that if odors do escape from the tank on occasion, it will not be as bad. And, I can tell you from personal experience of having a mishap when dumping the tanks once (don't ask for any more details, haha), that this Odorlos stuff DOES drastically reduce the odor. In some cases, it eliminates the odor entirely. I won't camp without it, no matter what the 'GEO method' folks say. :) Poop stinks, bottom line. If it didn't, there'd be something very seriously wrong with the person that 'produced' it, haha. :) When you store stuff that stinks that badly just under your floor in a plastic holding tank for long periods, then manually dump it via a vinyl sewer hose...There are going to be lots of opportunities for that odor to escape. THAT is why chemicals are a good idea, as 'insurance' for when (not if) things don't work perfectly.
willald 08/17/15 08:47am General RVing Issues
RE: Towing without a car braking system??

Someone pass me the popcorn? :) ..This subject NEVER fails to bring up all kinds of 'entertaining' reading. :) If so many braking system companies didn't spread so many flat out LIES about what the state laws are in this regard....IMO this issue wouldn't get beat to death so much. Will
willald 08/13/15 02:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Lift for towing cars?

..Only system like this I've ever seen on a Motorhome that you can still get today, is the one Power House Coach offers, their Ultimate Vehicle Tow System. Of course, when you build a custom coach on a Volvo HDT chassis, you can build a tow vehicle lift like that on it. They even offer some coaches with a built-in garage that will store your car for you. :) Got to have pretty deep pockets, though, to afford something like that. It ain't something I'll ever be able to afford in this life, haha. There *USED TO BE* one other option like this that was much less expensive: The short-lived Electric Tow Hitch. A completely custom hitch setup that supposedly could be set up for any vehicle and Motorhome. However, they went out of business a few years ago. I can make some pretty good guesses why that happened.
willald 08/10/15 08:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: E350 MH with potential Ford C-Max Energi Toad

Does anyone have any negative comments about: a Roadmaster with the Invisibrake? CW has a good sale on complete installation now. I wonder about the Invisibrake. I bet, no matter what sale Camping World has on this, you could get a ReadyBrute Elite tow bar and their included Readybrake braking system, for a fraction of what you'd pay for that Roadmaster and Invisibrake. My vote is for the Readybrute. You just can't beat it, IMO.
willald 08/05/15 08:41pm Dinghy Towing
RE: 36' gasser towing a 4600 pound mini van

We did something very similar - Towed a 4600 lb Kia Sedona minivan behind our 36' 2012 Georgetown Motorhome (see signature) for 'bout a year before we got another toad vehicle. Only major difference is that our MH has the newer more powerful 362 HP V10. Ours handled the van just fine when we towed it, I never had any complaints as far as towing power was concerned. Anyway, your new (to you) Southwind with the 310 HP V10 will handle the van just fine. You won't win any races going up through mountain passes, but it will handle it OK. Which mini van are we talking about? There aren't many mini vans that can be towed 4 down without some modifications. Or, were you planning on using a dolly?
willald 08/05/15 01:58pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Matching Receiver and Base Plate Height Using Drop Receiver

I would get the base plate installed on your PT Cruiser and do some measuring on it and the RV before you decide what drop receiver to use. Sometimes, the measurements they give on the height can be a bit off from reality. :) Also understand, contrary to what some say, it does NOT have to be perfectly level. As long as you come close, you'll be fine. I would agree that you'd never want the RV end lower than the car end, but it is OK if RV is a little higher. Also keep in mind, there is a huge downside to using larger drop receivers. The more the drop and the longer your MH's rear overhang is, the more likely you are to s****e or drag the back of your MH when going in and out of driveways, gas stations, etc. Too much 'drop' can put you at so much risk for tearing up your reciever or tow bar, you're better off to live with the tow bar not being quite as level. With ours, I use a 4" drop, and it is not level (MH is maybe 1-2" higher). However, there is NO WAY I will use any lower of a drop. I already s****e a little when backing into our driveway and other places. if I went any lower, I'd probably tear the hitch receiver or tow bar clean off (or get it stuck).
willald 08/04/15 02:38pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Do I need a charge line.

Bobbo is right - Pulling the fuse should remove the need for a charge line. However, there are a few vehicles out there that when flat towed with ignition in ACC position, will draw down the battery no matter what you do. One way to make sure your vehicle is not one of them, is to do a test like I did: Put vehicle in neutral, ignition in ACC position, turn everthing off inside just like you would when you're hitching it up to tow. Then, attach a clip-on ammeter on one of the main wires going to the battery, watch it for a minute or two and see what kind of amp draw you get. If its less than 1 amp, you're probably good, and don't need a charge line. Any more than that, and you might should consider one. I found with our Ford Fusion Hybrid, there was an average of a 3 amp draw ALL the time. Something about the electronics on Ford's hybrid vehicles, there are some electrical components that stay on when ignition is in ACC position, that draw down the battery. Only solution was a charge line, so thats what I did. 'Tis a very easy and inexpensive thing to add, though, if you do need it. As to how to wire the charge line: Yes, tying into the 7 round plug on the MH will work, and is the easiest if you have such plug. I used 8 gauge wire IIRC, would not recommend going any smaller. Also, make CERTAIN that you install a fuse on that line next to where it connects to + terminal of your toad battery. I used a 15 amp fuse IIRC. You absolutely need to fuse that line, to protect it. A diode, like WyoTraveler mentioned, isn't a bad idea, either, although I have not done that. There is also a few products you can buy that provide toad battery charging for you. I like THIS one from RVibrake. A little bit more expensive than just simply running a line, but this unit would manage your battery's charging much better.
willald 08/04/15 09:22am Dinghy Towing
RE: Dinghy Back Up

Well, let's see. In a panic stop, a 4000-lb car presses against the towbar in the way the towbar was designed to work. And hopefully with not all that much pressure since the toad should have a supplemental braking system. But when the rig backs up and the front wheels of the toad jam into their stops, a 14000-lb motorhome presses the towbar in a crooked way that it wasn't designed for. And, oh, the same thing happens to tie rods, tie rod ends and rack/pinion in the toad. Indeed, if the front wheels jam off to the left or right when backing, and you continue backing up that way...Yep, you're going to break stuff very quickly, one of which could be your tow bar. HOWEVER, most folks would have enough sense to STOP backing well before that happens. That is why if you must back up, you do so slooowly, only in as straight a line possible, and watching the toad carefully. Soon as front wheels on toad start to turn, you pretty much have to stop. As long as you take that approach, you are not going to break a tow bar or anything else. Despite what the gloom and doomers say. :) Popsie made a very good point, too, that frequently gets overlooked when this discussion comes up - Not ALL cars have positive caster. Some cars are much better suited to allow this backing than others. Jeeps, and other vehicles with older suspension setup with positive caster, are the WORST for this, and front wheels will slam to one side very quickly with these. Its kind of ironic - Jeeps are one of the most popular toads, yet they are the absolute worst for backing up when towed 4 down 'cause of their suspension design. However, newer vehicles with more modern suspension designs that don't have a lot of positive caster, will let you push them backwards a little more. Its another case where folks are sooo used to saying 'NO, YOU CAN'T DO THAT', they don't realize they could be giving extremely out-dated advice. My advice: Go to a large parking lot, a smooth surface with your toad hooked up to the Motorhome. With someone watching your toad closely, try backing up slooowly, as straight as you can. If toad wheels start to jam off to one side or the other, STOP and pull forward to straighten back up. After some practice like this, you will know just what YOU and YOUR specific rig can and can't do. You may find (like I did) that you can easily back up as far as you need to, so long as you stay straight and go slowly. Or, you may find that it will not work at all. Better to have that information beforehand, than to try and find out the hard way when/if you ever get stuck in a tight spot somewhere. :)
willald 08/03/15 10:48am Dinghy Towing
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 4  
Prev


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2016 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS