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 > Your search for posts made by 'willald' found 288 matches.

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RE: Brake Controller for Toad questions

After using an electronic system (and having it fail repeatedly in the middle of trips), I went to this: http://www.readybrake.com/tow-bars.html Hands down, the best and most inexpensive way of having good toad brake. X2 on the Readybrake. You just cannot beat the Readybrake, IMO. No electronics to foul up, nothing to install and take out every time you tow, fairly simple one-time installation of cable to brake pedal, and to top it all off: It costs significantly less than any other system. Nearly $1000 or more less, if you get their ReadyBrute Elite setup that includes both tow bar and braking system for nearly the same as you'd pay for just a tow bar alone from anyone else. Oh, and Bumpyroad is exactly right, about 'not drinking the koolaid' when it comes to the talk about 'proportional'. By the true definition of 'proportional', truth is very, very few braking systems out there are truly proportional (Unified system, contrary to what they say, is not). Only way to get a true proportional system is if you own a diesel pusher MH with full air brakes, and go with a (very expensive!) braking system like M&G or Air Force One that taps in and works directly off MH's air brakes.
willald 10/06/14 07:20am Dinghy Towing
RE: 2015 Honda CRV....... not towable

A CVT is not towable 4 down, so he was correct in that manner. True, in most cases, but NOT all. Ford's hybrid vehicles (Fusion and Cmax) use a CVT transmission, that is flat towable. Not only is it flat towable, its one of the easiest and most simple auto tranny vehicles to tow 4 down. No crazy procedures to go through when hooking up, no need to run tranny through specific shift pattern or run engine every so often to lube the tranny when towing. No battery or fuses to disconnect. None of that. Just hitch it up, throw it in neutral and go. Tow as long/far as you want, up to 70 mph, no restrictions (yes, this is with a CVT transmission). Anyway, back to original subject: If its true, thats really a shame. Honda CRVs are one of the most popular choices for flat towing, will be unfortunate to see yet one more option go away for those of us that want to tow a car behind our MHs.
willald 10/03/14 01:44pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Any issues with 19.5 wheels???

Yeah, I have issues with the 19.5" wheels on our 2012 MH: 1. They cost a good bit less $$ to replace than the bigger 22" wheels 2. Easier to handle - Doesn't require 3 men and a $1000 impact wrench to swap one out. I can almost change a tire by myself, using a portable impact wrench. 3. If you do decide to carry a spare, a 19.5" spare is smaller, lighter, and easier to store than a 22". Oh, wait, those are the reasons I *PREFER* 19.5 wheels, not 'issues'. :) I have had no issues with our MH and its 19.5" wheels. For the reasons above, I actually prefer them. Like already said, I think the original poster's MH was abused somehow before, causing the damage to the wheels.
willald 09/30/14 09:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: How much hassle to hook up a car dolly?

Actual time for hitching up and unhitching with a dolly vs 4 down may be fairly close, depending on various factors. The big difference between the two is this: 1. With the dolly, you're going to be crawling around on the ground more when hitching up and unhitching (to attach chains underneath car, for example). With a 4 down setup, the things you attach, unhook are higher up, eliminating the need to crawl on the ground like you sometimes have to do with a dolly. That bothers some folks, but not others. 2. With the dolly, the things you have to do (put on or remove straps, hitch dolly to MH, etc) typically will involve working with things that have the potential to get you much more 'dirty', especially if its wet out or raining. Hitching up and unhitching a 4 down setup is typically not quite as 'dirty'. Therea again, some folks will be bothered by that, some will not. 3. Get stuck just ONCE in a spot where you have to back up and have to unhitch, re-position, then hitch back up, and you will see where the huge difference is. 'Tis much more complicated and more of a 'PITA' to do that with a dolly setup than 4 down. Like already said, its a personal preference thing, each approach has its pros and cons. As I alluded to here, though, there's a lot more to consider than just the actual time it takes to hitch up or unhitch.
willald 09/11/14 09:18am Dinghy Towing
RE: Thor ACE ahead of the competition

..And FWIW DSDP, I find spending $400K on a motorhome to be just as ridiculous. I'd rather invest that money into a nice property (4000 ft2 vs 400ft2) that will not drop in value like a motorhome. Well said, EricGT. I, like Effy, you, and I'm sure many others, do not have a money tree growing in the back yard, and cannot blow my nose on $1000 dollar bills. The idea of sinking six figures into a depreciating asset that is basically a 'toy'.....Welllll, it will not happen for me in this lifetime, period. Maybe I'm cheap or old fashioned, but IMO thats just not wise use of $$. I'll give up camping/RVing before I put that much $$ into something that just loses value. If I have that much $$ to work with, I'm putting it into a property or something that will not drop in value every day I know of some that have lost six figures in property or something(stocks). One of the big reasons for me why I personally would never ever buy new. Since we have veered off topic a little, depreciation is not always the major factor for every person. You have to live! If people didn't buy new there would be no used units available. Hehe, I think I was misunderstood. I never said there was anything wrong with buying new. AAMOF, RVs are one thing I actually prefer to buy new, and always have for various reasons. Cars, I have no problem buying used, but not RVs. I like knowing that nobody but me and my family have slept in, lived in, 'used' our RV. 'Tis one of the great things about camping, RVing instead of staying in hotels. I just refuse to sink ridiculous amounts of $$ into one in order to get it, thats all. Obviously what I see as 'ridiculous amounts' is very different from what others think, but like MM said, 'there's a bottom for every seat'. :) Will
willald 09/09/14 07:31pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Thor ACE ahead of the competition

..And FWIW DSDP, I find spending $400K on a motorhome to be just as ridiculous. I'd rather invest that money into a nice property (4000 ft2 vs 400ft2) that will not drop in value like a motorhome. Well said, EricGT. I, like Effy, you, and I'm sure many others, do not have a money tree growing in the back yard, and cannot blow my nose on $1000 dollar bills. The idea of sinking six figures into a depreciating asset that is basically a 'toy'.....Welllll, it will not happen for me in this lifetime, period. Maybe I'm cheap or old fashioned, but IMO thats just not wise use of $$. I'll give up camping/RVing before I put that much $$ into something that just loses value. If I have that much $$ to work with, I'm putting it into a property or something that will not drop in value every day. Like Effy and you have said several times: Show me a NEW Class A with this so-called sooooo much better quality, for less than $100K. I'm not for or against Thor, Forest River, or any of them. They all are very similar, provided you truly compare apples to apples in terms of $$. As to the original post here: Not sure I'd agree that Thor is that far ahead of the others. They, just like all the others, frequently come out with new 'gadgets' to either keep up, or try to get ahead of the competition. Every brand does the same, and they all have their good points and bad points. They all build their share of questionable quality. Thats why you just have to do your research, and look over whatever you buy very closely before closing the deal. Thats what we did, and after 2 years, we're happy as pigs in slop with our 'entry level' FR Georgetown. Yeah, the build quality could stand improving here and there, but I can repair and upgrade a LOT, for MUCH cheaper than what I'd have to pay for the 'quality' rigs some keep pushing. :)
willald 09/09/14 07:10am Class A Motorhomes
RE: I Love My Manual Awning

Oh no! Not another type of,problem with electric awnings. They keep coming. Gee...I wish I had no life, and nothing better to do with my time than to troll around on various internet forums looking for negative posts about products I don't own and posting links to it in a thread like this. Then, I could be just like Bruce. I bet I could easily create 10 pages of links to stories of people who've had their manual awning ripped to pieces by a storm 'cause they thought it was indestructible when they anchored it down. Or, had it unfurl and tear up going down the road due to a worn out tension spring. Or, maybe had a tension spring break, and it would not roll up AT ALL and left them stuck. Or, got drenched when they had to rush outside to roll it up in a downpour of rain. I could go on and on. But, that won't happen, 'cause I have a life, and much better things to do with my time than that. Like, enjoying camping with the family in our RV and its ELECTRIC awning. :) Will
willald 09/03/14 11:38am General RVing Issues
RE: Fusion Hybrid Toad tail light setup

I just picked up a new 2014 Ford Fusion Titanium Hybrid to use as our toad. I contacted Blue Ox for a base plate and tail light wiring kit. They told me that the Fusion LED taillights operate of a single wire system and that the various functions (i.e. running lights, turn signals etc.) are controlled by control signals of differing frequencies. They said neither they, or any other manufacturer they know of, has developed a kit to use with these frequency controlled systems. We have a 2013 Fusion Hybrid, and I can tell you that this is not the case for ours (and it has the LED tail lights). They do make tail light wiring kits for the Fusion hybrid, I've seen a couple. I installed one and use it, to wire the brake light/switch to an indicator on the MH dashboard. Soo, I know for a fact you can tap into and use at least the brake wire going to the tail lights, because I did it with ours. :) That said, it is true that the electrical systems on these hybrids are very complicated, and it probably is best to avoid tapping into their wiring any more than is necessary. Even though I did tap into the brake wire for the MH dash indicator, that was the only thing I tapped into. I use separate, magnetic tail lights, and put them inside the car on the rear shelf right behind the back seat headrests. As already said, you do also need to run a charge line to to the 12V battery of your hybrid (very quick, easy, and cheap thing to add). Not doing so will result in getting to your destination with a dead battery and needing a jump start.
willald 09/02/14 06:43am Dinghy Towing
RE: Towing a VW Beetle or? on an Acme Tow Dolly

Glad everyone is happy towing 4 down but that is not an option for me. The Acme dolly is light weight, can be stood up or stowed mostly under the m/h. I would like the option of buying/selling a front wheel drive car with no investment in braking etc.The Acme dolly has surge brakes and would be readily saleable should I do not want to continue to tow and is reasonable in cost... I tow 4 down now, but I towed with an Acme dolly before and agree 100% with you on it. The Acme due to its design almost eliminates a lot of the disadvantages people frequently associate with dolly towing. We were able to stow ours almost completely under the MH when camping - it takes up less space back there than even the foldable Demco Kar Kaddy SS that costs 3 times as much. Really like the separate, detachable ramps - eliminates the risk of the ramps hitting bottom of your car like can happen on dollies with fixed ramps. As you said, the surge hydraulic disc brakes are a really nice feature, too, that not many dollies come with. Also, not sure if you've noticed or not, but the way the Acme is designed with its smaller wheels and fenders, you can turn really, really sharp turns with it, and there is almost no chance of its fenders making contact with the front fenders of your towed vehicle. And, it does that without using a pivot table or steerable wheels. Really nice design, IMO, that nothing else really compares to. 'Tis also the only dolly I found anywhere, that would handle heavier vehicles like a 4500 lb minivan, but was still light enough to allow you to tow such a vehicle and stay under the 5,000 lb limit so many MH hitch receivers have. Like so many, we prefer flat towing, but would have no problem going back to dolly towing if circumstances changed and required such. However, it would ONLY be with an Acme EZE dolly. I wouldn't worry about a specific model of car towing better or worse behind a dolly. As long as the car is within the tow dolly's weight and width limits (not an issue with the Acme), you should be fine.
willald 08/27/14 10:10am Dinghy Towing
RE: Oil Change V10 Newmar

I've done mine a couple times, its really pretty easy. A few general notes, things to keep in mind: 1. A chassis crosspiece is right below the oil drain plug. You either have to deal with oil pouring across and down it, or fashion a work-around to this. I've heard of some installing a Fumoto valve, others just put a piece of cardboard over the chassis crosspiece. I just let it pour, put the drain pan right under, and wipe things off with a cloth or two afterward. 2. Once you crawl underneath there, its actually pretty easy to get to the drain plug, filter, etc. down there. A LOT more room underneath to maneuver and get to things than I'm used to with every other vehicle I've owned. :) 3. If possible, get the new oil in 1 quart containers, not one of the large 5 quart containers. With ours, there is barely enough room to put on a funnel and dump in a 1 quart container right at the filler. No way to do it with a big 5 quart bottle. Only way I found to do it with a 5 quart container, was to attach a long hose to the funnel, and sit the funnel up higher near the windshield wiper, and pour the oil in there. This makes the oil very slow in going down into the engine, and you end up holding that 5 quart container up high for a long time. Much easier to just pour 7 single quart containers in right at the fill neck. Anyway, hope this helps. This is one of the really nice things about owning a V10 gasser MH, is that oil changes can be done by yourself fairly easily and economically.
willald 08/20/14 10:12am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Pulling a "Toad" on a Trailer?

...as a 14 year user of a brake buddy, I think that the "proportional" hype is just that , hype, and an advertising gimmick. I set my BB so that it would only come on under fairly severe braking, I did not want my toad stopping my motorhome. worked just fine. I would not hesitate to buy and use any "non-proportional" braking systems myself if the system otherwise fits your needs. ..Although I don't agree with Bumpy on the specific braking system choice, I do agree that the word "proportional" is thrown around and abused waaaay too much in advertising various braking systems. Same thing with advertising for brake controllers used for controlling trailer brakes on trailers. Very, very few (TOAD) braking systems are truly 100% proportional to MH brakes. Most use an Accelerometer of some type to determine braking. This is frequently called 'proportional', but it truly is not. Only TOAD braking systems I've seen that really and truly are proportional would be the M&G system or Air Force One. Systems that plug into and work directly off MH's air brake system. Very nice systems, but obscenely expensive and only work if you have a DP Motorhome with full air brakes. Will
willald 08/19/14 09:56am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Pulling a "Toad" on a Trailer?

Thank you! Not just because you agree with me for the most part.. but this was an excellent response. Explaining the reasons for why you feel the way you do is extremely helpful. I appreciate all of the help that I have received, but yours is especially appreciated! Do you use the ReadyStop BreakAway as well? Yep, indeed I do, and it works great best I can tell (well, seems like it should, haven't actually had a break-away happen, haha!) Having some kind of BreakAway system IMO is actually even more important than having a supplemental braking system at all. Will
willald 08/19/14 09:47am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Pulling a "Toad" on a Trailer?

Assuming that I went the way of 4 down instead of trailer... I am really thinking that the ReadyBrake perhaps with the added brake vacuum pump is the way to go instead of invisabrake. The idea of invisabrake is nice, but if I read it correctly it is NOT proportional... in other words, the brake is either applied or not applied. So if you are in the habit of making long, slow stops (I teach tractor trailer driving so I am all about loooong slow stops) you will have disproportionate amount of braking from your Toad, on the other hand if you need a quick stop, you don't get any extra assistance from behind. With the ReadyBrake a long slowdown will result in minimal braking from the Toad. The harder you slow down, the more braking you get from the Toad. Add in the vacuum pump (if necessary) and it seems to me that you have got almost the equivalent of proportional electric brakes. Am I looking at this correctly? Yes, I think you are. I also like the Readybrake, it is only braking system I'll own. The other really, really nice advntages the Readybrake has over Invisibrake and other systems, you may or may not have thought about: 1. Cost - Readybrake costs SUBSTANTIALLY less $$ than any other system. If you get the Readybrute Elite tow bar and braking system combination, it saves you over $1000 for what you'd pay for a separate tow bar and most any other system. 2. Simlicity - No electronics to foul up and cause havoc with your brakes. Ever. Just simple, no-nonsense cable operated system that simply works. And, almost anything that might possibly break or wear out with it, you can get parts at any hardware store for less than $20 to fix it. The same cannot be said for most any other braking system. Also, the beauty of a mechanical system like this is that you can inspect may of its parts for wear & tear, fix potential problems before they become something breaks. Not the case for electronically controlled brake systems. One of the things I really like about the design of the Readybrake is this: Once it is installed and set up correctly, it is just about impossible for it to EVER over-brake your toad and damage the brakes. The same cannot be said for many electronic systems. As far as the brake vacuum pump: I've towed two vehicles with a Readybrake. The first one had no vacuum assist, and it did fine. The second one (what I tow now), is one of few vehicles where power (vacuum) braking stays on ALL the time, even when engine is off and/or when towing (Ford Fusion hybrid). Soo, brake pedal does not become 'dead' and tough to press when engine is off. With the Fusion, I have found that braking is a little bit better than it was on my previous vehicle that did not have power braking on all the time, but not significantly so. If you go the 4 down route and get a Readybrake, I would try it first without the additional brake vacuum pump. You may well find you do not need it.
willald 08/19/14 07:05am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Pulling a "Toad" on a Trailer?

You might find a trailer light enough to work, especially if you go with one that is open in the middle, something like THIS Carry-on model. Biggest problem you're going to have with using a trailer is not so much the total weight of the trailer and vehicle exceeding your hitch's 5000 lb limit, but with the tongue weight. Your hitch receiver is most likely limited to 5000 lbs total weight, and 500 lbs tongue weight. Frequently by the time you load a 4000 lb car on a flatbed trailer, the tongue weight it will place on the MH hitch receiver is going to be significantly more than 500 lbs. If you get much over that, its not just a matter of beefing up the hitch receiver to one that can handle more tongue weight. You have to also worry about the strengh of any frame extensions the manufacturer may have added to the back of MH chassis, load/weight shift on the MH tires and axles, etc. This is the main reason that every time I get tempted to go the trailer route instead of 4 down towing, I quickly scrap the idea. Only way I'd seriously consider trailer towing, would be if I had a MH that came with a 10k hitch receiver from the factory, so I know it was designed to handle the heavier tongue weight. Anyway, for these reasons, I definitely agree with advice already mentioned, that you need to hit the weigh scales before buying anything. Sure would hate for you to find out after you're stuck with the trailer, that it won't really work, either.
willald 08/18/14 10:01am Class A Motorhomes
RE: A/C while driving

Depends on several factors. If its just two in the MH up front in the driver and passenger seat and your passenger doesn't typically go to the back often for anything...The dash air may well be enough. On most units, the dash air is enough to keep the very front (driver and passenger) cool, but thats about it. If anyone else is riding back in the coach, you will want to run the genny and at least one air conditioner in hot weather (unless your passengers back there don't mind being a bit hot). Any time you stop to rest for a bit, eat something, etc., you're going to want to fire up the genny and run at least one air conditioner. You also may want to fire up the genny and air conditionr an hour or so before you get to your destination, so that by the time you get there, the coach is already cool and comfortable. You will hardly notice the difference in fuel consumption when on the road with the genny running vs not running. When your drivetrain engine is powering you down the highway gulping down about 8 or 10 gallons an hour, the extra half gallon your generator uses per hour is not that significant. Typically during the summer months, unless its unusually cool, we run the generator and at least one air conditioner when on the road. Have to 'round here in the South, otherwise it becomes unbearably hot back in the coach for the rest of the family (kids).
willald 08/18/14 08:54am Class A Motorhomes
RE: M/H to Toad Braking Systems

x2 M&G is very solid and simple to connect the toad. ...One thing to keep in mind with M&G: It is incompatible with a lot of vehicles. I believe this is partly because it mounts onto the brake master cylinder, makes the master cylinder protrude further out by a few inches as a result. If there isn't enough clearance for the master cylinder to protrude out a few more inches, M&G will not work. There's probably other more technical reasons why M&G is incompatible in many cases, but its definitely something you need to check into and research before plunking down the $$ on an expensive system like that. With how tight I've seen things are under the hood with many newer vehicles, I'm amazed M&G can work with ANY modern vehicle, haha. :)
willald 08/12/14 09:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: AirForce 1 brake system vs Ready Brake

I hope you will reconsider your decision about not having a breakaway system. I consider it to be a requirement for any supplemental MH/toad brake system. While a runaway toad is unlikely to be a hazard to you and yours, it is a serious hazard to others, both on the road and anywhere else near the breakaway. In addition, it gives you some defense if a breakaway causes any legal action from law enforcement or civil suit. The law isn’t entirely clear in every state, but many require a breakaway system for any towed trailer/car, etc. exceeding some weight limit, and any toad most likely exceeds most of those weight limits. I also hope you will install a brake indicator on your MH dash operated from the toad BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH. When connected that way, you get an immediate indication when the supplemental brake system is braking or not braking. That not only warns you about system failure, but about operator error as well. I once failed to hook up the AF1 air hose and got an immediate “no brake action” warning before leaving the campsite. Hehe, wca01 and I might have 'disagreed' a little bit earlier about which system is the better choice, but I agree 110% with him on all of this. Especially about wiring a brake light indicator directly off the brake pedal/switch on the toad, not to anything with the supplemental braking system (RB actuator or whatever). Its really nice to know exactly what your toad brakes are doing or not doing, not necessarily what your supplemental brake sytem may THINK is going on. Will
willald 08/12/14 08:50am Dinghy Towing
RE: AirForce 1 brake system vs Ready Brake

..Here's some other thoughts to ponder, to help in making your decision: There are ZERO independent tests ever been done with any of these brake systems, to back up ANY claims of how much percentage one system may improve stopping over another. Just because one manufacturer may claim 50% better stopping power or 30% better stopping power, does not mean ANY of it is necessarily true. There really is no way to know with certainty, if a Readybrake surge system will stop with any more or less stopping power than AF1 or any other system. A surge system like Readybrake, indeed requires some 'push' on the tow bar before it engages. Is it enough to significantly affect braking performance, to the extent some proponents of AF1 system would have you believe? Here again, without any independent testing of the various systems, its impossible to say. For all we know, the same would be true for AF1 and any other system (that some 'push' is applied to MH before toad brakes engage). It depends on several different factors. Sure, in THEORY, toad brakes powered directly off of the MH's air brakes should brake things a little more evenly. But, without putting a bunch of sensors of some kind on the tow bar, you really will never know. Every setup is different, and a zillion factors enter into just how braking will occur. Is it really worth spending over $1000 more (plus additional installation) for a system that claims to have better performance, when there are ZERO independent tests done ANYWHERE to back such claims up? Thats a decision you have to make. I do know I'd have a really hard time spending that much more $$ without some pretty solid, significant proof that it will perform significantly better. But, thats just me. Also, as already said, remember how simple the Readybrake is, and the fact that most of the things that may break or wear out on it, you will be able to buy parts at any hardware store for less than $20 to fix it. I doubt you'd be finding AF1 parts at a corner hardware store for less than $20. And, one really nice thing about a mechanical system like Readybrake: You can inspect many of its components for wear and tear regularly, and fix worn parts before they become a problem. The same cannot be said for many components of a system like AF1. Will
willald 08/11/14 10:24pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Self insuring vs Roadside Assistance

I know it's a wide open field given all of the different types of RVs there are out there but I'm wondering what folks that have had to pay out of pocket for their own towing,tire replacement, as well as other problems that you would typically use RA for have had to pay. I have a Class C and am curious what someone with a similar RV has paid for some of the basic services that they have used. I'm hoping your answers will help me decide about self insuring against break downs and tire service. Thanks Let's deal with the question. ERS or "RA" as you call it is Insurance. Medical Insurance pays some (or all) of your medical costs. Life Insurance pays your beneficiary. Home Owners insurance pays for (some/most) losses to your domicile. All types of insurance are "for profit" of the insurance company. They make money by the service/product you *don't* use. ERS or RA - whether it's for a lock-out, tow, or tire change has limitations. Are they going to provide drive line *repairs*? Repair your fridge? Tech advice - probably/maybe (who knows how good it will be). Vehicle warranty (or you) need to take care of that. IMO - "we" are all capable of changing a flat. Given enough time with a wire coat hangar - "we" may be able to get past locked car/truck with keys inside. Do you want to do that - or have someone else do it for you? Can "we" tow our own car/truck/RV to a repair facility? Unfortunately, probably not. Can "we" find and contact a company that will tow our vehicle when we're stuck in the middle of nowhere, and find an appropriate repair shop there to do any repairs needed, again, in the middle of nowhere where you have no idea where you are or who you could possibly call? Unfortunately, probably not. This is why ERS or RA insurance is soo valuable to have when on the road, regardless whether it saves you any $$ in the long run on an actual tow or not. Soooo the solution is to have some kind of ERS which will do that. The added "perks" - types of service rendered, towing distance, etc. are like those other types of insurance......how much do you want/need? Check the price of a 5-10-50 mile tow from *any* tow service in your area....for just a car or pickup (or an RV). You can "interpolate" what the fee would be in the boondocks - and tack-on additional $ depending on the tow vehicle req'd. Bottom line: If you have deep pockets - go for it..:C Even most states will accept posting of a bond in lieu or carrying auto insurance. You may never need/use the ERS or "RA" -or any other insurance- you pay for. (Life insurance won't do anything for *you*, LOL!) Don't think Warren Buffet has an ERS or needs medical insurance..:S Yep -it's a wide open field. It's your choice to grab the ball and run with it in whichever direction you choose! YMMV ~ All good points. I added one little piece (in bold above), on why ERS or RA insurance of some kind is so good to have. Will
willald 08/11/14 02:17pm General RVing Issues
RE: Self insuring vs Roadside Assistance

In my case, I'm not so much paying for towing as I'm paying for knowledge. When we had a flat in Alaska, Coach Net called a road service unit 160 miles away and they had to go another 60 miles into town to find the right size tire, then bring it 200 miles to me. I paid for the tire, but would have had a heck of a time finding it and getting it to me. Also, when the rig quits, where's the nearest competent repair shop? These guys usually know and it could take me hours to find out. Exactly. This is why I keep Emergency roadside service coverage. Its not so much about saving $$ (although it only takes one or two incidents before you are saving $$). Its more about the peace of mind of knowing no matter how far from home we may have a problem, one phone call gets us to someone that will locate an appropriate repair shop and/or tow truck for us. We have Good Sam ERS, and would not want to travel without it. Fortunately, have only had to use it once when we had a tire problem, and they handled it very well, pretty much as expected.
willald 08/11/14 09:20am General RVing Issues
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