RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'willald' found 300 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 15  
Prev  |  Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Breaking System

For two toads, the ReadyBrake is still a good choice. A "second car" extra cable harness kit is only $77. Exactly. I have the Readybrake cable/harness installed on both of our two everyday driving vehicles (Kia minivan and Ford Fusion hybrid), can tow either one of them easily with Readybrake. No need to put anything in or take anything out when switching between the two. Much easier than any brak-in-a-box system. Will
willald 02/18/15 11:11am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Breaking System

Here's one more vote for the Readybrake system. Just can't beat it, IMO.
willald 02/17/15 11:45am Class A Motorhomes
RE: leveler/stabilizer

The more you extend your leveling jacks, the less stable the RV will feel inside. This is especially true if you lift high enough to bring a wheel or two off the ground. On the flipside, the less you extend the jacks (use more blocks), the more rock solid it will feel inside. Next time before you deploy the jacks, try putting some large blocks under your jacks before extending them, so they don't have to extend as far. If you have to lift enough to take a tire off the ground, drive that tire, side up on blocks first to prevent such. You may well find that using more blocks and raising the jacks less, results in a more stable RV inside. I have. Tires help provide lateral stability when parked, so the more weight you keep on them when parked, the more stable, solid the RV will feel. Thats why its not a good idea to lift one off the ground unless absolutely necessary. Yes, diesel pushers have an advantage when it comes to leveling, since they can dump air and bring the coach down very low before extending jacks to level. End result from this means that the coach sits lower, jacks not having to extend as far. Thats why they can be more stable when parked. I've found over the years, that people frequently get very lazy when it comes to leveling, when they move up to a Motorhome. Its as if the leveling blocks they used for years without a problem with towable RVs, suddenly become something they just HATE to have to use. Don't be that way, haha. :) This answer, without a doubt, is by far, one of the most accurate answers to any given leveling situation out there, in the real world. I applaud all of it........ Thanks, Scott. Glad to see we agree on this matter. :) Some gas coaches, with ALL the tires still on the ground and, the jacks deployed, will still exhibit a slight "rocking"..... I think thats more about the owners and what they do inside, than it is about the coach itself. You see, us gasser owners are more often going to be younger 'working stiffs' like me that can't afford to spend six figures on a diesel pusher. And, us younger folks...Wellll, lets just say we're more likely and apt to participate in certain 'activities' in our RV that might cause the RV to exhibit a slight "rocking" if you know what I mean. ;) Thats the REAL reason I have to use a lot of blocks, and go to long ends to get our rig as stable as possible, Scott. Hahahahaha. :) Happy camping. Will
willald 02/17/15 11:39am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Looking for Fishing Pole Storage Soulutions

I use 4" pvc pipe mounted to the top of the storage area with metal straps. Each will hold 3 or 4 rods up to the reel which sticks out the end. Works really well. Sorry no pics, tt is in hibernation. This is what I did as well, but I used a large piece of square shaped fence post cover you buy at Lowe's or Home Depot. Works great, provides a great way to store several various poles we take with us as well as fishing rods.
willald 02/17/15 08:16am Class A Motorhomes
RE: leveler/stabilizer

The more you extend your leveling jacks, the less stable the RV will feel inside. This is especially true if you lift high enough to bring a wheel or two off the ground. On the flipside, the less you extend the jacks (use more blocks), the more rock solid it will feel inside. Next time before you deploy the jacks, try putting some large blocks under your jacks before extending them, so they don't have to extend as far. If you have to lift enough to take a tire off the ground, drive that tire, side up on blocks first to prevent such. You may well find that using more blocks and raising the jacks less, results in a more stable RV inside. I have. Tires help provide lateral stability when parked, so the more weight you keep on them when parked, the more stable, solid the RV will feel. Thats why its not a good idea to lift one off the ground unless absolutely necessary. Yes, diesel pushers have an advantage when it comes to leveling, since they can dump air and bring the coach down very low before extending jacks to level. End result from this means that the coach sits lower, jacks not having to extend as far. Thats why they can be more stable when parked. I've found over the years, that people frequently get very lazy when it comes to leveling, when they move up to a Motorhome. Its as if the leveling blocks they used for years without a problem with towable RVs, suddenly become something they just HATE to have to use. Don't be that way, haha. :)
willald 02/17/15 07:21am Class A Motorhomes
RE: shortest tag axle class A?

Thanks for getting us back to tag axles. Will you are incorrect on towing most tag axle DP's from the front. The amount of weight on the tag is determined by the amount of air in it's air bags which is controlled by it's own pressure regulator. Raising the front up will make the regulator release air maintaining it's preset pressure/weight on the tag. I would remove the drive shaft instead of the drive axle shafts for fear of hitting it with the tag axle. ..From what I understand from those that have towed a tag axle DP that way and later regretted it, it wasn't damage to the suspension that was the concern. It was damage done to the tag axle tires from overloading them when it was towed that way. They ended up buying a new set of tires shortly afterward. Perhaps my choice of words initially was incorrect - It isn't axle damage really, but more tire overloading damage concerns. You make a good point, though - Perhaps on some units, enough air can be removed on the tag axle, so that it would not shoulder too much weight in the event of being towed by the front. That definitely was not the case, though, for the folks I talked to that got to buy a new set of tires as a result of that tow. Will
willald 02/16/15 02:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: shortest tag axle class A?

One thing to keep in mind about a tag axle, which is one reason I never want anything to do with one: Towing one, should it ever become necessary, is much, much more difficult and expensive with a tag axle DP than one without a tag. In most cases, you cannot pick it up by the front like you do with any other MH. Doing so puts too much weight on the rear tag axle and can damage it. Picking it up by the rear usually isn't a good idea, either, as this puts too much weight on the front axle. Frequently, the only option is to put it on a huge flatbed (low boy) trailer. This can be extremely expensive, and much, much harder to find a towing service capable of handling this. Especially if you break down a good ways off the beaten path. Yes, Coachnet or Good Sam ERS will cover all (or at least most) of this expense if you have such. However, it can be much, much more difficult to find a towing service that has the equipment, know-how to handle a huge rig like this on a flatbed.
willald 02/16/15 12:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Non-Venturi Generator Exhaust Extender Ideas

I have a Georgetown, and same predicament as the original poster - Generator and its exhaust is located underneath the living room slideout. Did not like it at first, but have since learned that it really is no big deal. I researched this same subject also, considered fabricating something, or getting a Genturi and extension like Lantley discussed. Also seriously considered taking it to an exhaust shop and having them re-route the generator exhaust back a few feet so it'd come out just behind the slideout (this was my preferred solution, although we never did it). Then, one time, when we were 'driveway camping' with the MH at some relative's house and needed to run the genny all night to have air conditioner, etc., I just said what the heck - we have a good CO detector, and there was not anybody outside around us that could be harmed. We just went ahead and ran the generator all night just like it is. No Genturi, no exhaust extensions, nothing. I was very nervous about it that first night, but guess what? It worked just fine. CO detector never went off, was not a problem at all. Since then, we have done that several times, and it works just fine. Kids actually like it, say the generator's humming helps them go to sleep. That, and it combines two of their favorite things - camping, and staying at Grandparents house. :) You definitely need to make sure your CO detector is in good working order. I also always make sure the rubber seals around the slideout are in good shape, too, whenever we do this (both things you should do, regardless). Maybe before trying this, you might want to do a test - open the slideout, crank up the generator and let it run for a few hours. See if CO detector ever goes off inside the MH. If fumes are able to get in somewhere around the floor, better to know now rather than when out camping and you have to bail in the middle of the night. If CO detector does go off or you smell exhaust inside, then you can look at maybe doing some of the exhaust ideas being discussed here. You may well just find like I did, though, that this really is not as big an issue as it may seem. If you do decide to do something about this, my preference would be to have an exhaust shop re-route the exhaust away from the slide, at which point you can either use a Genturi or fabricate something of your own like it.
willald 02/16/15 06:33am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Toad Brake System (your opinion)

I was using the Ready Brake Elite, but when I traded the toad I wanted to be able to tow either of my vehicles and any future ones. We've used our Readybrake on two different vehicles. All you have to do when you trade or get another vehicle, is order and install the Readybrake cable on the new vehicle. They'll sell you just the cable for a 2nd vehicle for just $60. Once thats installed, you can tow either vehicle using the Readybrake without having to put anything in or take anything out every time. The simplicity of being able to use Readybrake on multiple vehicles so easily without having to wrestle anything in or out of the car every time, was actually one of the reasons we really like the Readybrake.
willald 02/10/15 08:43am Dinghy Towing
RE: Talk about dodging a BULLET !!!

FYI...here's how mine is mounted....yours may be different but suggest it's mounted to something that won't come off the car....Dennis http://i.imgur.com/5V6DOefl.jpg Nice, I like it, Dennis. Even though this isn't really how the instructions tell you to install it, it really is the best approach. As long as that Readystop unit there doesn't break loose with whatever separates from the towed vehicle, that approach will always work, and will grab and hold the brakes in the event of a separation. Even if entire front end rips off like what happened here. I admit, my Readystop is mounted up on the front, just below the base plate. I may just have to re-locate it. Been fixin' to change the way the Readybrake cable is routed, anyway..
willald 02/05/15 09:29pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Toad Brake System (your opinion)

...the one most talk about is the Ready Brute with the ReadyBrake system. It's a surge brake that is attached to the tow bar and when you slow down, pressure is applied to the surge brake which in turn pulls a cable attached to your brake pedal. The cable is permanently attached and only takes moments to connect. I think it's one of the best, but in my opinion loses it's effectiveness once the air in the power booster is depleted. It needs an air pump. NSA does offer an optional vacuum pump for the ReadyBrake that maintains a "live" brake booster. It's easy to test and see if one would be effective on a given toad before buying it. Just run a predetermined course with a variety of stops using the standard ReadyBrake setup, and then run the same course with the toad engine running at idle to maintain the vacuum booster. If the difference is noticeable, add the pump. ..To add onto that: On some vehicles like Ford's hybrids, (our Ford Fusion hybrid being one example), power braking is on ALL the time, even when engine, ignition is off. That being the case, the power booster is never depleted, so the Readybrake never loses any effectiveness like DSP Don alludes to. No need for a separate, optional vacuum pump in this case. Our previous vehicle we flat towed, a Kia Sedona minivan, did not have this. And, yes, once the air in the power booster depleted, the Readybrake had to pull harder on the cable to engage the brakes. However, the Readybrake actuator is designed to handle this, and I found it did fine, with the power braking (currently with Fusion) or without (previously, on the Kia van). I agree with Dutch, its a good idea to run the test he described, to see if the pump is worth adding or not. You may or may not notice enough difference to be worth it. I did not. Will
willald 02/05/15 02:01pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Dingy towing 2012 Ford Fusion

Will: I hope you see this question. What brand is your baseplate? Thanks Kerry (two-niner), we went with a Blue Ox base plate. At the time we bought our 2013 Fusion and needed a base plate for it (March 2013), Blue Ox was the only one that had a base plate available for it. I've always liked Blue Ox's design for base plates better, anyway. Will
willald 02/05/15 10:35am Dinghy Towing
RE: Talk about dodging a BULLET !!!

The major problem here is a weld that didn't hold! That's why you do a pre and post trip inspection of your baseplate! Hahaha, this is a good example of idealism vs reality. On most vehicles, inspecting the base plate close enough to catch issues like this would require you to take entire front end of car (front fascia, bumper, etc) apart. How many folks REALLY are going to do all that before and after every trip? Nobody, bottom line. I'm guessing the OP was referring to "Readystop" this is Readybrake's emergency brake away option. I have it and I wouldn't turn the key without this or some sort of break away protection. And BTW this would have stopped the car regardless of the whole front end coming off. Readystop link Yes, like I said in a previous post, I'm a big proponent of ReadyBrake and their Readystop break-away unit. However, I'm not sure I agree with you, that the Readystop would have necessarily worked in this extreme case where entire front end of the car came off. Only way it would have worked, is if the Readystop unit was mounted to something that stayed on the car after the front end separated. If it was on the front of the car that separated, then the cable pulling the brake pedal would have snapped, and brakes would be released. Soo, unless the Readystop unit was mounted well behind the front end of the car (like maybe on the frame halfway between front bumper and firewall, it would not have worked. That would be the case for many other break-away systems as well. This may well have been one of those specific 'fluke' crazy instances, where no particular safety device would have helped. Will
willald 02/05/15 10:13am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Leaking inner dual tire, need help finding leak

Not sure about your rims but I do not have to dismount the tire to replace a valve stem. All I need to do is just compress the tire enough to reach the valve stem and replace it. Then you just let the tire spring back to be ready to inflate it again. The bottom bead is never broken. On the Borg dually valve stems I have, there is a nut inside that you have to tighten down against the O ring, to seal the valve stem in place. Not sure if you could get a wrench on that nut and tighten it appropriately, just reaching through like you describe. You make a good point, though, it may well have been possible to install the new Borg valve stems way back when, without dismounting entire tire from the rim. Thats all water long under the bridge now, though. :) Will
willald 02/05/15 08:54am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Toad Brake System (your opinion)

Our ReadyBrute Elite tow bar has an integrated ReadyBrake auxiliary brake system. The ReadyBrake system is entirely mechanical, so there are no electronics, motors, or compressors to fail. It's also fully proportional and after the initial installation only requires snapping on a cable to hook up. We've used ours for about 6 years now, and it's been very reliable and maintenance free. X2 I will never go back to a system with electronics. X3 X4. Simple, works great, no electronics to foul up. It is only system I'll probably ever own. Not only is it so simple and works great, it also costs SUBSTANTIALLY less $$ than any other system. Especially if you get their ReadyBrute Elite tow bar and braking system package. You end up paying almost the same you'd pay for just a tow bar from anyone else, and it includes the braking system built into it. Thats a good $1k savings right there, since you don't have to buy the braking system separately. That being said, if we're talking about a diesel motorhome with air brakes, AND $$ is no object and you want the absolute best you can get regardless of cost...In that case, the suggestions for M&G or Air Force one are good ones. If you have air brakes, those systems are indeed the best choice, although they come at a very, very high price compared to systems like the Readybrake. If you have a diesel pusher with air brakes, I'd go with Air Force One or M&G. Otherwise, Readybrake is the only way to go, IMO.
willald 02/05/15 07:59am Dinghy Towing
RE: Leaking inner dual tire, need help finding leak

Update: Well, the tire is still sitting in the garage. I've been checking its pressure every day. Pressure has been holding steady at 95 psi since Monday, when I last posted. It is no longer leaking, best I can tell. :) Sooooo, dis-mounting the tire from the rim and re-mounting it using the sealant, seems to have solved the problem. It must have had a slow leak somewhere around the bead. Slow enough, it was never noticed with soap water. This actually makes (some) sense, now that I'm thinking more about the history of this tire: This particular tire has been un-mounted and re-mounted to the rim way more than usual - Once, when I first had the Borg valve stems put on. Then, a second time a week or so later, to correct the poor valve stem installation I mentioned previously. This was the only tire that had to be dis-mounted and re-mounted a 2nd time to get the Borg valve stem installation corrected. I guess, the 2nd time they put the tire back on the rim, somewhere, somehow, the bead just didn't seal right with the rim, resulting in a very slow leak that just now has got bad enough (2 psi a day) to be noticed. I guess one lesson to be learned form this, is that one must be cautious when dis-mounting and re-mounting a tire to a rim any more than is absolutely necessary. Doing so increases the risk of the bead not sealing properly when re-mounting, and having a gradual leak like I did here. Oh, one other thing: Anyone that lives around Gastonia, NC area, if/when you need tires or any tire service for pretty much any vehicle, you should go to Clark Tire! I normally don't mention a business by name on here, except when they've been really good and exceptional, and they have in this case. Those guys are awesome, have been great to work with through all this. Refused to take any $$ for working on this, even though I offered several times. When it comes time to put a new set of tires on the MH, I know exactly who I'll be going to for them. :) Anyway, Saturday I will put the tire back on the MH, and hopefully put this one to bed. One really good thing that came from all this: Now, I have the tools to change a tire on this rig if I need to, and learned it really is not as hard to work with these tires as some might lead you to believe. :) That, and having to take the MH to the tire dealer gave me the chance to fill it up with gas, and I got a FULL, 80 gallon load of fuel, while gas was just $1.98 a gallon here! Woot! Now, gas prices are definitely on their way back up, so I definitely got it filled up when fuel was 'bout as low as it was going to get. I'm ready for Spring. :)
willald 02/05/15 07:38am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Talk about dodging a BULLET !!!

..While I am a huge proponent of the Readybrake system like Dennis, (the original poster), I have to agree with what one poster previously said - This incident does not provide a good case for or against Readybrake. Or any other supplemental braking system for that matter. A break-away system of some kind, properly installed, absolutely! This incident shows clearly why a break-away of some kind is a really good idea. The two (supplemental braking system and break-away unit) are not always necessarily one and the same. Readybrake's break-away unit, the Ready-Stop, is totally independant of the braking system and can be installed on just about ANY vehicle, whether you are using a Readybrake supplemental brake or not. However, like mowermech said, there's just soooo many questions surrounding this one, its hard to really say if a break-away unit of any kind would have worked here, and if it did, if the end result would be any better or worse than what happened. This incident came up previously over in the Dinghy towing section of this forum. The comments then were very similar to whats been said here. I agree, that this driver was EXTREMELY fortunate. I would say he should go out and buy a lottery ticket, but I think he may well have used up all his good luck for a while, haha. :)
willald 02/05/15 07:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Seahawks decal for rear of MH

But as a die hard Seahawk 12, We'll be back next year. ..As will all 31 other NFL teams and their fans. :) One thing I got to say about this: I have generally cheered AGAINST the Seahawks over the last few years, just 'cause of how arrogant and mouthy certain players on their team have been in recent years. They've become the kind of team I like to see lose, just to watch those certain players shut up and get humbled. That being the case, it sure has been nice not to have to hear those arrogant players spouting off their mouth since they lost. They got very quiet, haha. I'm not a Patriots fan at all, but I do have to say, it was like a night and day difference in how their players reacted sooo much more professional afterward versus how arrogant and mouthy Seahawk players typically do after a big win. That alone, made me happy the Patriots won. Will
willald 02/04/15 02:50pm General RVing Issues
RE: Air Brake Calipers....YIKES !!! (UPDATE)

..I think we are missing the point to tropical36's post. Yes, in some ways, comparing a gasser to a massive DP like Dennis' rig, is like comparing a bottle rocket to a Saturn V. No doubt about that. The point he was making, I think, was/is that maintenance is considerably more on a 'Saturn V' vs a 'bottle rocket', and this thread provides a very good, solid example to prove that. Yet, still, we've seen more than once when someone asks that specific question about cost difference between DP vs gassers, there are those that swear that their DP cost no more (some even try to argue less, haha) to maintain than a gasser. Misinformation like that can lead folks to make very ill advised purchases, and get in way over their head. THAT is IMHO why every time the truth comes out about DP maintenance costs like it is in this thread pretty clearly, someone like tropical36 chimes in like they did. I was about to say same thing, basically, but he beat me to it. :) Bottom line is, I think we need to 'bookmark' this thread, and next time someone says their DP is no more expensive to maintain than a gasser, post a link to this thread and call them out for their B.S. :)
willald 02/04/15 07:29am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Used class A example - where are these prices coming from?

As already said, this is most likely a case of someone who for one reason or another, is extremely 'upside down' on their loan - They owe far more for their unit than it is worth, and are trying to get enough selling it to pay off the loan. Not uncommon at all. That, or they just have no clue what their RV is truly worth, and are looking for someone dumb enough to over-pay for it (like they may well have done originally). :) I don't think I'd ignore the ad completely, if I liked everything else about the unit and was in the market for such. I would ask them if they are willing to negotiate on the price, and try to *politely* inform them, by providing various links to NADA, comparable units for sale, etc., that they are asking considerably more for their RV than it is worth. If they won't budge and be more realistic, well, easy enough to just move on and keep looking. :)
willald 02/03/15 01:39pm Class A Motorhomes
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 15  
Prev  |  Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2015 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS