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 > Your search for posts made by 'willald' found 319 matches.

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RE: Ready Brake users

I hook up all the cables, before backing up the toad. That way, there is slack in the Readybrake line, so I don't have to pull on the cable (on toad side) to connect it. Remember, that when you back the toad up to lock the bars, most of the time only ONE of the two arms is going to lock, not both of them. Only ONCE in the last 3 years, have I ever lined the toad up so perfectly that both bars locked at the same time when backing up the toad. That being the case, there should still be some slack in the Readybrake cable, even after you back up the toad to lock one of the bars. Once the MH moves forward, the other bar will lock, at which point the slack in the line should be gone (assuming MH and toad are in a straight line). You really need to have both bars locked in place, and MH and toad in a good straight line, when you adjust that cable. I know that makes it a bit more of a pain, 'cause it means you have to drive the MH forward some before adjusting. However, it is the best way to make sure you get it adjusted right. Once you get it set right, you should rarely have to make adjustments. With time the cables may stretch a little and need tightening, but not very often.
willald 04/14/15 12:32pm Dinghy Towing
RE: towables

Went shopping for a new car last weekend with the idea that buying a car that war towable with all four wheels on the ground might be part of the criteria as to which car I choose. The salesperson informed me that almost no car mfgs. for the model year 2015 offer cars that can be towed with all four down (except Jeeps- no way, bad experience). Does anyone know if this info is accurate? ..What the salesperson REALLY meant: There is nothing on their lot for 2015 to sell you, that is flat towable. Soo, he/she hopes you'll give up on finding such, and buy something from them that isn't flat towable. :) While it is true that the options out there for flat towing have diminished some in 2015 (since Honda left the market), there ARE still several options out there, besides Jeeps, that can be flat towed. Especially, if you're willing to get a vehilcle with a manual transmission. As already suggested, have a look at the latest Dinghy guide. You'll find there are a lot more options out there than that sales rep would've had you believe. :)
willald 04/14/15 12:20pm Class A Motorhomes
LP gas tank extension question

We like to use a turkey fryer/burner, something like THIS, to boil shrimp, various other things in a large pot (its often called a 'low country boil', and is great!). The burner for this has a 'female' type connector that screws onto a standard 20 pound portable LP gas tank. In past trips, I've just carried a 20 pound LP gas tank in an outside storage bin that we use with this burner. This works OK, but I really don't like carrying a separate gas bottle in a storage bin. Makes me a bit nervous, and uses up storage space I'd rather use for other things. Would prefer to be able to tie into, use the permanent LP gas tank on the Motorhome. The problem is that on our Motorhome, the LP tank is on the driver/street side near the front of the MH. Would prefer to use the burner, fryer on the curb (camping) side. Sooo, my question is this: What would be the best, safest approach to allow using the fryer on the curb side? Should I have a dealer run a permanent high pressure LP gas line from the MH's LP tank on driver side over to the curb side, and plug the burner in there? I'm thinking that'd be pretty expensive to do, and would require running a high pressure gas line near, across the engine and transmission. Does not seem like a good idea? Another approach would be to just install a Y adapter on the LP gas tank, and purchase a very long LP gas extension hose that I'd connect and run over to the fryer on the other side just when using it. Would need to be at least 12' long, preferably more like 20'. Can high pressure LP gas hoses be had in that length? I like this approach better, as I could do it myself for much less $$ I'd think. Any other thoughts? Anyone else use a burner like this, and have a similar predicament? If so, how did you solve it?
willald 04/14/15 12:08pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: The skinny on Extended Warranties

Correct terminology is Service Contract.Who Cares? Makes no difference to post. There is a huge, HUGE legal difference between a warranty and a service contract. And, reality is that almost nobody sells a true extended warranty. They sell service contracts, and play with the wording to try to make people think they are buying an extended warranty, when they really are not. They are buying a contract that covers repair or replacement for specific items, in a specific timeframe, and frequently under very specific conditions. All of which are specified by the contract writer, not the buyer. That is why any time the word 'extended warranty' is mentioned, somebody corrects it, reminding folks that we are really talking about service contracts.
willald 04/14/15 10:52am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Pink stuff vs Air pressure - The Verdict

Ahhh, yes, the old air vs pink stuff debate. :) Seen this discussion many times, have used both methods. For me, what pretty much ended the debate, was a few years ago when a friend of mine called a very well known, respected RV manufacturer (Tiffin) and asked them what they recommend, what they use to winterize the units they ship north. Guess what?! Even the RV manufacturer THEMSELVES use the compressor blow-out method, highly recommended such, and have never, ever had a problem. Then, to eliminate the doubt even MORE, shortly after that, when we were camping in the mountains and had to have a CO detector issue fixed, we had a mobile RV guy come out to look at our RV. Asked him same question. He told me that he is contracted to winterize numerous units up in the mountains every year, where they see very low temperatures in the winter. Guess what method he has always used, and has never had a problem in years and years of winterizing units in the mountains? Yep, compressor blow out. ..If its good enough for the ones that design and build RVs, AND its good enough for a service professional that is contracted to winterize RVs up in the mountains....It should CERTAINLY be good enough for the rest of us! I have always used the compressor blow-out method, for as long as I can remember. Never, ever had a problem. Ever. I think part of the key is that this method must be done the right way. If you do not, there is the risk that water may pool somewhere and cause problems. The folks that have problems, IMO are probably not doing at least one part correctly. You must put at least 45-50 psi of air pressure through the lines (35 will not do). And, you must blow out each and every line until ALL the water spray is gone, and nothing but air is coming out. And, you have to address the pump and line from FW tank to the pump, somehow. Blowing air through the water pump is not advisable, so I have the water pump suck in just a little bit of pink stuff ('bout a quart or less), enough to make sure the pump and its input lines have pink stuff in them. And, of course, all drain traps must have the pink stuff in them. One big misconception about this method: It is not done to save $$ on pink stuff, as the savings there is very little. Main reason for doing it, is to avoid having to clean that pink stuff out of your water lines in the Spring or whenever you want to camp again. I love the fact that come Spring, I can just hit the road, hook up water and start using the camper immediately. No need to clean out the water lines.
willald 04/12/15 09:25pm General RVing Issues
RE: Adding seat belts- Is it possible?

I added a seat belt to the recliner chair directly behind the passenger seat up front, as we wanted my daughter to be able to sit in it when traveling. I too, found that most places you ask about installing seat belts, will refuse to do so for liability reasons. Sooo, I just ordered a simple lap belt and installed, attached it to the seat frame. The RV dealer we bought the MH from did agree to install extra mounts, to mount the chair more solidly to the floor. That was all they'd do. No, what I did ain't DOT compliant, and it won't hold a passenger in during a 4g negative rollover incident, haha. Truth is, though, almost no seat in a MH is truly DOT compliant in terms of safety, except the driver and passenger. But, what I did does provide some safety for a passenger sitting in that chair when on the road. It will hold them in place in the event of sudden maneuvers, stops, etc. Been using it this way for 3 years now, it works great. Anyway, not sure if this helped much or not.
willald 04/11/15 06:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Need help with class B road test in NC, will pay/compensate

..Here's one more vote for 'Just go to Florida, get your new Motorhome back home, enjoy the excitement of it, and worry about the license part later'. This is a subject I've researched quite a bit, as has my BIL (brother in law) who owns a large 5th wheel. We have discussed this with highway patrol officers, DMV officials, and RV dealer reps. Bottom line is, like already said: It is very, very unlikely, even if you do get stopped for something else, that any law enforcement officer will ever notice this, let alone cite you for such. Most law officers as well as DMV officials will not know about and/or will not care about just what specific RV type would require a B license and what would not. Only risk would be in the event of a major accident, where everything about you and your rig would be scrutinized. Yes, in that case, not having the B license could be a problem. Thats why you should probably get the license, eventually, but I don't think you need to just for the 1 trip home with it. Even RV dealer reps in North Carolina that I've talked to, that drive these rigs as part of their job all the time (to RV shows, etc), in most cases do not have a B license! They do NOT require you to have such license when selling you one, either. They do remind their customers that technically they are supposed to have such license, but thats it. Go get your Motorhome, and enjoy it. :) On a sidenote, thats not very helpful but I'll say it anyway: This issue with NC drivers licensing, is yet another of the many reasons we chose and will stick with our gasser MH and its GCWR under 26,001 lbs: I don't have to worry about getting any special licensing to drive it, as DP owners do in many cases.
willald 04/02/15 09:46am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A with front entrance door

This is one of the reasons we don't want a DP. I absolutely hate the idea of the door being in front of the passenger seat, is basically a deal-breaker for us. Just does not work for us. And, like already said, there are very, very few DP options out there that don't have the door in the front. Main thing I hate about it, is actually something nobody has mentioned and may sound crazy to some: It just makes the coach look, feel more like you're driving a big greyhound or school bus than a Motorhome or RV. With a door located there at the front, its almost like you feel that you need to pull out a stop arm and turn on flashing red lights whenever the door opens, hahahaha! Other thing is, I just don't like how crowded and tight it makes the entryway. There is just not enough room up there for the door, entryway, IMO. What has already been mentioned about the awnings is a really good point, too. I really like how there is just one awning with a mid door unit, and the door opens out under the awning. No 'gap' between them like you have with front door models. http://i.imgur.com/WMRnnEEl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Y5InWuul.jpg Mike, not sure what your point is. I never said that ALL diesel pushers have a front door, I said there are very few DP options that have a mid door. There really is no arguing that, no matter how many pictures you throw up of the rare exceptions to this. :) Will
willald 04/01/15 06:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A with front entrance door

This is one of the reasons we don't want a DP. I absolutely hate the idea of the door being in front of the passenger seat, is basically a deal-breaker for us. Just does not work for us. And, like already said, there are very, very few DP options out there that don't have the door in the front. Main thing I hate about it, is actually something nobody has mentioned and may sound crazy to some: It just makes the coach look, feel more like you're driving a big greyhound or school bus than a Motorhome or RV. With a door located there at the front, its almost like you feel that you need to pull out a stop arm and turn on flashing red lights whenever the door opens, hahahaha! Other thing is, I just don't like how crowded and tight it makes the entryway. There is just not enough room up there for the door, entryway, IMO. What has already been mentioned about the awnings is a really good point, too. I really like how there is just one awning with a mid door unit, and the door opens out under the awning. No 'gap' between them like you have with front door models. LOL! This is a funny post. What an excuse to not buy a diesel pusher. Well gasoline coaches are many many times cheaper.;) ..Call it funny if you want, but its the absolute honest truth about one of the reasons why there is not (and probably will never be) a diesel pusher in our driveway. But, yes, the $$ involved is a much bigger and more significant reason. :) Will
willald 04/01/15 06:45am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A with front entrance door

This is one of the reasons we don't want a DP. I absolutely hate the idea of the door being in front of the passenger seat, is basically a deal-breaker for us. Just does not work for us. And, like already said, there are very, very few DP options out there that don't have the door in the front. Main thing I hate about it, is actually something nobody has mentioned and may sound crazy to some: It just makes the coach look, feel more like you're driving a big greyhound or school bus than a Motorhome or RV. With a door located there at the front, its almost like you feel that you need to pull out a stop arm and turn on flashing red lights whenever the door opens, hahahaha! Other thing is, I just don't like how crowded and tight it makes the entryway. There is just not enough room up there for the door, entryway, IMO. What has already been mentioned about the awnings is a really good point, too. I really like how there is just one awning with a mid door unit, and the door opens out under the awning. No 'gap' between them like you have with front door models.
willald 03/31/15 08:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Toad lights and Diodes

I'm back on the road and headed for Tennessee. I went to Harbor Freight and bought some of the magnetic lights and rigged them up on the toad. I also bought a couple of their 95 lb magnets which really hold the lights down good. Maybe I can find someone to trace down my troubles when I get back home. By-the=way, my MH lights are visible to those behind but I really want to be seen and safe. Thanks everyone for your helpful comments. ..Hope its not too late, and that you already knew this or got lucky and haven't had a problem yet, but: Even for just 1 trip, on a temporary basis like you're doing now with those magnetic lights: Do NOT run the wires for those magnetic lights across any painted surface on your toad! The wires vibrating, shaking in the wind WILL scratch your paint, badly. I know its more of a pain, especially since this is a very temporary solution, but you need to route the wires so they are not laying against any painted surface. I learned this lesson the hard way 'bout 2 years ago. Cost me quite a bit of $$ in detailing, buffing, etc. to get those scratches out.
willald 03/31/15 07:47am Dinghy Towing
RE: magnetic wireless toad lights.

Yes, we do use them. As indicated in the previous post, on many newer cars you really have no choice but to use these, or wire in separate bulbs. Wiring into existing tail lights with diodes, on some newer vehicles can be a VERY bad idea, and lead to costly repairs not covered by warranty. We mount the magnetic lights INSIDE the car, on the rear shelf right behind rear headrests. Small piece of Velcro stuck underneath the lights holds them in place very well. This works great on most sedan type vehicles, and obviously completely eliminates any risk of scratching paint. Beauty of this approach is, you get the best of all worlds - A permanent installation that can stay in place all the time as lights are not in the way or block rear vision. Yet, is very inexpensive and can be quickly and easily removed and put into next vehicle when/if you trade. No need to spend bunch of $$ on wiring kits that you will probably have to purchase and install all over again when you trade vehicles. And, no tapping into vehicle's wiring at all.
willald 03/30/15 08:37pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Honda abandons Dinghy market?

It is my assumption (possibly incorrect) that if the car is not in the towable guide, and the consumer handbook does not say it is towable, then any claim regarding the drive train might be denied when the towbar hitch is spotted. I don't think anything in the towable guide or a consumer handbook would play a role in whether or not a drive train warranty claim would be denied or not. The manufacturers didn't write, endorse that towable guide or consumer handbook, why would they go by it? What DOES matter, and is the final say on the matter, will be the owner's manual or other documentation provided by the manufacturer for the specific vehicle involved. If it says you can flat tow, you're good, and can do so with full factory support (assuming you follow the guidelines it provides for such). If not, you may well still be able to flat tow in some cases, but you do so with the potential risk that warranty claims can be denied if something breaks. Based on the history or auto sales, when I purchase my next toad (soon) I will insist that the dealer write into the sales contract that the vehicle will be used as a towed vehicle behind a motorhome. That way, if the manufacturer changes the listing at a later date, I still have possible recourse. Just thinking. I would be very surprised if any dealer would be willing to write such a thing into the sales contract. Leaves them open for waaaay too much liability there. My bet is they're going to tell you that your 'recourse' in case of future issues, lies in the owner's manual that came with the car that indicates whether or not flat towing is OK. Anyway, back to original subject: If you are looking for a flat towable alternative to the Honda CR-V, and can live with a little less interior space, have a look at some of Ford's hybrid vehicles (Fusion or Cmax). They are flat towable from the factory, and very easy and simple to tow. No crazy procedures to go through when hooking up, no fuses or battery to disconnect, none of that. Just throw it in neutral, hook up and go. Can tow all day, all you want, no need to stop and run engine to lube the tranny like some require. And, the mileage the rest of the time (not towing) is absolutely unbeatable, too.
willald 03/24/15 07:27am Dinghy Towing
RE: Using blocks under automatic levelers

Scott/"Fire Up", You are absolutely right, and I've said it before also: People frequently get very lazy when they get a Motorhome with leveling jacks. Its as if they lose the ability to get out the blocks and put them in place like they did for years with other RVs, haha. :) Anyway, I really like your leveling block idea there, with the 4x6 lumber sandwiched between 3/4" plywood pieces. Seems like that ought to make the RV sit real solid. As you and I have said and agreed on before, the less the jacks have to extend, the more solid it will feel. I'm curious, though, those blocks look pretty new. How long have you had them, and how many times have you used them? Is this something you just built that haven't had the chance to try out yet, or have you used them a season or two with success? I may just have to build me a set like those, and quit using the pieces of 2x10 lumber under the jacks..
willald 03/23/15 06:48pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Which GPS bean bag holder?

'GoPackGo' is exactly right, on all accounts. The lane guidance many GPS units gives you, is very useful. Its really nice when traveling in unknown areas, to know exactly what lane you need to be in to take any exits, turns, etc. that you need to. So is the fact that if you miss a turn, it will automatically re-calculate, and guide you on a different route. You want it close to you and directly in front, for the reasons I and others already alluded to - You want to be able to look at it, get information from it, without taking your eye off the road. That is also why IMO the larger a screen you have, the better (I prefer at least 7"). You also need it in easy reaching distance, 'cause occasionally you may want to touch a button or two on it, to zoom in the screen, bring up traffic updates, etc. One other thing thats absolutely priceless, that our Garmin 760LMT (and I'm sure many others) have: Traffic alert/updates. It shows you traffic conditions, color-coded on the roads, to warn you of heavy traffic ahead. If traffic is bad enough, it will recommend an alternate route to avoid it, and will tell you how much time it thinks the re-rout will save. I use this everyday driving to work and back, and this alone makes the GPS worth every penny, IMO. More than once, it has alerted me to traffic conditions that made me take an alternate route and avoid a ton of traffic. I also, used to strictly use maps.google, mapquest, etc. and print out, maps from such and use that. I still do that, actually, and as a general rule decide the route, roads I'm going to take on a trip beforehand based on research with maps.google and maps I print out from such. However, the GPS still is a great tool for what it provides when on the road, that you can't get very easily from maps.google or mapquest.
willald 03/23/15 06:44am General RVing Issues
RE: Which GPS bean bag holder?

We recently got a GPS and went through this as well. Here is a thread I started, discussing the same subject. Mounting to the windshield with a suction cup, I never liked; Like already said, they will not stay, and the other big problem is, that puts the GPS unit waaay too far forward in the Motorhome, completely out of reach. Some talk about mounting it on the side window, but that puts it too far out of eye sight going down the road; you need it in the center, up high where you can look at it without taking your eyes too far off the road. That rules out mounting it near a cup holder, too, as previously mentioned. I also did not want any kind of mount that left anything permanent on the dashboard. Doing such makes you a much bigger target for a thief. They see the GPS mount on the dash, even if no GPS unit is on it, they know that the GPS unit is probably somewhere in the vehicle, and will break in just to get it. Seen that happen more than once. Sooo, the above reasons pretty well meant that for us, the bean bag mount was the answer. I ended up going with THIS one, and it works great. Very happy with it, works exactly as it should and as I'd hoped. Really like that I can pick up entire thing, mount and all, and use it in all our vehicles, or can hide it in the trunk or wherever, so there's no way to know there is a GPS unit in the car. The Garmin bean bag mount mentioned earlier is OK, but has one problem: They have bean bags all around them, so you have to set it a little further forward on the dashboard than I'd prefer. The one I have, the bean bags are in a 'horseshoe' shape, with none in the front, so it can go right up against front edge of dashboard. You need it close enough you can reach it easily.
willald 03/22/15 10:10am General RVing Issues
RE: How much sewer hose?

..Regardless of length, you want to keep at least two hoses. That way when (not if) you have one spring a leak, you can quickly grab your other hose and use it if need be. Nothing worse than everyone being ready to leave and waiting on you to drain the tanks, and you have to go find, buy a sewer hose on the fly. As to length: I agree, that its good to have both a 20' and a 10' hose (or two 20' hoses would be even better). You'll find that most places you go just one of the two will be enough, but ever so often, you run into the sites where they have the sewer connection in a place where 20' is not going to be enough. You don't want sewer hose limitations to dictate how, where you park your rig on a site. Nor do you want to have to move your rig just to empty the tanks. ..You didn't ask this, but I'm going to give you this advice, also, as to the type of hose to get: You never know, when a hose may spring a leak and you will find yourself having to find, buy a hose in an area you're not familar with. That being the case, its best to go with the standard, common hoses with standard bayonet-style connections that can be bought just about anywhere. All those "fancy-shmancy" hoses that can be run over, survive a hurricane, and have cool little connectors are all fine and dandy when they work, but ALL hoses will eventually leak. Finding a replacement or fittings for one of those fancy hoses somewhere out in the boonies can be difficult.
willald 03/17/15 02:48pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: class A vs. 5th wheel

Feel free to add whatever I missed You missed saying you do not know much about 5ers and like to make broad generalizations that are not true in detail. You almost got one right. The one advantage to a class A is your passengers can use the bathroom without pulling over. Although it is not true for the driver and illegal in the US. However, I am happy with you believing what every makes you happy. ...And you missed saying you do not know much about the laws, and what is illegal and what is not with regards to passengers getting up to use the bathroom in a Motorhome without pulling over. The 'myth' about it being illegal for passengers to get up and move around in a Motorhome, has been debunked and shown to be baloney time and time again here and on other forums. Still, some people still insist on bringing up and propagating that myth. Thats OK, though, like you, I am happy with you believing what ever makes you happy. :)
willald 03/16/15 08:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Bicycles-recommendations?

..While I won't disagree that you'll probably end up with a better bike from a bike shop, I wouldn't discount totally the ones you can get for much less $$ at 'big box' stores. You can count me as one that has bought all our bikes from Walmart or Target or other 'big box' stores, and never have gone wrong yet. You just gotta do your research, check them out real good, and know what you're getting. Me and DW still have the Schwinn bikes we bought from Walmart over 10 years ago, and they both still ride great. They go with us on every camping trip, always have as long as we've had them. Have bought numerous bikes for the kids as well this way. With kid's bikes, you absolutely HAVE to get them cheap, 'cause they seem to outgrow and require a new one every few years, haha. Yes, first thing we had to do was replace the seats on our (adult) bikes for more comfortable seats. That was done for less than $20 each bike, though. Even with that and other various things I've upgraded, fixed over the years on these bikes, we are STILL waaaay ahead $$ wise from what we would have spent for a bike from a bike shop. You may also find that specialty bike shops are getting harder and harder to find. I've seen several of 'em pop up, and go out of business around here over the years. Its very hard for them to compete long term, with the big box stores and online retailers, I think.
willald 03/12/15 09:05pm General RVing Issues
RE: keep batteries good?

I just bought my first motorhome. It's a class a. The guy I bought it from said he kept "killing the house batteries". He gave me a brand new set. But I want to avoid doing the same. I'll near power most of the time, so should I just have it plugged in all the time? Do I just charge it when they are dead or before going ona trip? Charge them whenever they are halfway dead? Nightly? Something else? These are sealed deep cells. Thanks Tell us what kind of motorhome it is and the type of battery charger, etc. Is it a diesel or gas? MM. What is being asked is: What type of "CONVERTER" do you have? That's the power control center of the coach. What is needed is the make & model number. Exactly. Need to know what converter is involved here, and if it is one that has some kind of 'smart' charging or not. Older converters are known to over-charge the batteries when left plugged in to shore power all the time. With a converter like that, you need to keep a very close eye on your batteries water levels, make sure they don't get 'cooked dry' from over-charging. I'm going to bet that may be how, why the previous owner wore out some batteries. If you find that this is the case (and again, finding out what converter you have is the first step), then I would consider replacing the converter with a newer one that has 'smart' charging. Then, you can just leave the MH plugged in all the time and the battery charge will be maintained properly for you without you having to worry so much about it. You still need to keep an eye on the battery water levels, but you will not be adding water to them anywhere near as often. A good example of converters that have this smart charging that I would highly recommend, would be Progressive Dynamics 9200 series converters.
willald 03/12/15 06:52am Class A Motorhomes
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