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 > Your search for posts made by 'willald' found 300 matches.

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RE: AirForce 1 brake system vs Ready Brake

...Some important key pieces 'wca01' left out, in his marketing propaganda post about SMI Air Force 1: The Air Force 1 also will cost you obscenely more $$ than the Readybrake. Since you're purchasing a new towbar as well, and can get the Readybrute Elite tow bar that comes with Readybrake, the cost difference is even more substantial - well over $1000. And thats without even mentioning the huge cost of installing the AF1, that you will not have to worry about with the Readybrake since you already have the RB cable installed on your toad. Yes, air brakes working directly off of your MH's air brake system is nice, but is it worth paying over $1000 (probably closer to $2000 including installation) more for? The Air Force 1 system is an 'electronic box' type controller system. Meaning, it is controlled by electronics. This introduces the risk that said electronics can fail, over-brake your toad, and do major damage to the brakes. It does happen, read around on here you'll see where it has. OTOH, due to its design, this is something that is just about impossible to ever happen with the Readybrake, once its installed and set up properly. When the Air Force 1 system quits in the middle of nowhere and you need to repair it....Wellll, good luck with that. OTOH, 99% of the things that can break or wear out on the Readybrake, can be repaired by almost anyone with parts you can find at any hardware store for less than $20. Also, those mechanical parts on the Readybrake, you can inspect for wear and catch problems and fix them before it becomes a problem. Kinda tough (impossible) to do that with electronic stuff in the Air Force 1. Also, one day several years from now when you trade toad vehicles....Removing the Readybrake cable and installing it on the new toad will be fairly simple. If you don't want to remove it from old toad, no problem, just buy a new cable from Readybrake for $60 and install it on the new toad. When that day comes and you're using AF1, be ready to shell out a LOT more $$ to remove AF1 from your old toad and install it in the new toad. Anyway, this is obviously your decision, but if it were me, I'd go with a ReadyBrute Elite tow bar and Readybrake system. I would also call NSA, speak to Todd about your situation. I'll bet since you own a Readybrake now that is worn, he may well give you a very good deal on a new Readybrute tow bar, or offer to send you a new or rebuilt RB unit you can use with another tow bar. That could make the price difference between the two even MORE substantial, to the point IMO it'd become a no-brainer decision (even though IMO it already is that).
willald 08/03/14 10:32pm Dinghy Towing
RE: 2011 Buick Lacrosse tow car battery problems

I did have the power connector set up to give a trickle charge while in tow. This does not seem to work. I discussed the pulling of fuse option with the dealer, they said this could cause other problems... ..Not sure quite how you wired the 'trickle charge', but normally running a charge line is the easiest, cheapest, and most simple way to solve battery draining issues. I had exact same problem, and I solved it completely by running a charge line. All you gotta do, really, is run a wire from + of your MH battery (usually already there on back of MH in the 7 pin connector) to the + terminal of toad battery. If you have an extra, unused pin/wire in the umbilical cord used for tail-lights, you can use that and won't have anything else to have to attach/unhook when hitching up. Just have to make sure the chare wire you run is fused both on the MH side as well as on toad side just before it goes to the battery. Ground (negative) should already be wired from your tail-light wiring. If not, you'll need to run a ground wire, too. In many cases this will eliminate the need to have to pull any fuses. And, it eliminates any worry ever about ever running down your toad battery.
willald 08/01/14 12:22pm Dinghy Towing
RE: V-10

And with the 3 valve engine you get the spark plug nightmare! Ummm..Wrong. Ford actually corrected the 'spark plug nightmare' (IIRC by adding more threads in the head) long before the 3 valve heads ever came out. Its amazing, all the 'misinformation' that gets unknowingly spread sometimes. Will
willald 07/30/14 11:21am Class A Motorhomes
RE: TOAD Braking System Question...

..Do yourself a huge favor - save a ton of $$ and headaches later on, and just skip BOTH the Air Force 1 system and the Patriot system, and get you a Readybrake braking system. You just can't beat it, IMO - Simple, no-nonsense cable operated braking system that just works. Nothing to have to put in and take out of the car every time you tow, no electronics to foul up and over-brake your toad (like some electronic systems have been known to do). Very straight forward, simple install - just a cable routed from front of vehicle to brake pedal, no splicing into vehicle electronics or brake system. And, to beat it all - If you get their Readybrute Elite tow bar and braking system combined deal/package, you'll save yourself about $1000 or more from what the Air Force 1 or Patriot would cost. Yes, Readybrake is a surge based system. And, NO, it will NOT drag your toad's brakes going down mountain inclines. That is one of those 'myths' from years ago that just won't die. I've travelled through the mountains with ours may times, as recently as last week. Have watched the toad brake indicator light closely the whole way down the mountain, never once did the light come on except when I pressed on the (MH) brakes to slow down. IMO, you just can't beat it. :)
willald 07/30/14 10:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tow Dolly

..When I had a dolly, my solution to this was that I built an attachment that consisted of a piece of 2x4 with a large caster wheel mounted on bottom, and a long (3") bolt sticking up from the top. Hitch coupler on the dolly had a hole at the top, that the bolt on the 2x4 went through. A wing nut locked it on and held it in place, so that front of dolly was now on a wheel and did not have to be lifted. Didn't cost but a total of maybe $20 total to build this 'device'. I can email pictures of this device if anyone is interested. When you attach this wheel/attachment on the front of the dolly, it became VERY easy to move around (no need to lift the front of it to move it). I would attach this device as soon as I unhitched the dolly, and take it off just before hitching it back up to the MH. Made it very easy to push the dolly under back of the MH when at campsite, so dolly was almost completely out of the way. You could also attach a handle/bar onto the front of the wheel attachment, to allow you to push or pull the dolly around like a wagon without having to bend down. I was working on adding such handle to ours, but never finished it - We went to 4 down towing and sold the dolly before finishing it. Also, the dolly you use makes a big difference as well. The lighter it is, the easier it is to move around by hand. This is one of the reasons the only dolly I'll own is the ACME EZE tow dolly.
willald 07/30/14 08:03am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Camping World Sales

...Stuff like that has been going on since the dawn of time. Quietly jack the price up, then immediately claim SALE, SALE, and bring the price back down to original price. Sales go through the roof, people think they're getting such a great deal, when in reality they're paying the full, regular price (or in this case with CW, you're actually paying more than the regular price, haha). When I was in college many, many years ago (back in the early 90s), I worked for an auto parts company that was notorious for this. They would quietly raise their price on car batteries (12V), then immediately come out with big sale ads claiming big discounts on batteries, listing them at their original, regular price. They sold tons and tons of batteries this way. I installed zillions of those batteries for customers, would over-hear them rant and rant about how happy they were for the GREAT deal they got on a new battery. Didn't have the heart to tell them, they were actually paying the full, regular price. :) Does not surprise me at all, that Camping World is using similar tactics.
willald 07/30/14 07:34am General RVing Issues
RE: Blown Engine, 8.1l

rgatijnet1 brings up an excellent point. Maybe, just maybe, John, you might get very lucky, and find that this was just a rock or something came up and punched the hole in the oil pan. In which case, all your engine may need is a new oil pan and 6 or 7 quarts of oil. It does seem kinda strange IMO for an engine with only 37k miles to grenade itself?? YOu say you heard a bang, and saw a lot of smoke. Where did the smoke come from? Out the pipes, or from underneath? If it came from underneath, not out the pipes, I'd say its possible that the pan just got a hole punched in it by something. Has anyone dropped the oil pan off the engine yet, John? Or possibly put a wrench on the crankshaft, and see if the crank will turn without any 'bad' noises? Drop the oil pan, see how things look in there. I think you'll be able to tell very quickly once the pan is off, if the engine grenaded or if something from the outside punched a hole in your oil pan. I'm sure you thought of this already, but, would it be possible for you to just park the MH at a semi-permanent site for a while, and live in it there until you can save up the $$ for the engine repairs? I saw quite a few folks doing just that (living full time on semi-permanent sites) at Carolina Landing in SC, where you used to stay quite a bit.
willald 07/29/14 07:37am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Whats the best car to tow ??

observations going down the road...i think you'll count more Jeep Wranglers being towed behind an RV than any other single make or model. Indeed, Jeeps are very easy and simple when it comes to flat towing. However, they do not fit the bill for many folks, for various reasons. Especially for those for which the 'toad' has to also serve as an everyday driving vehicle when not camping/RVing. Jeeps are awesome for going offroad, but that offroad prowess comes at a price in terms of road manners, comfort. I know they've got much better in recent years, but overall, Jeeps can be a VERY uncomfortable ride on pavement, and due to their design they can also be extremely lacking in various 'creature comforts' many other vehicles have (yes, I have driven and rode in several of them). Will Will, you really need to test drive the new Jeep Cherokee (different from Grand Cherokee). It is a luxery car with very nice appointments along with lots of room for passengers and trunk space. It's quiet on the road and extremely comfortable. It will change you mind on Jeeps. :) I have test driven them, and I agree the Cherokee and Grand Cherokees both are a whole different animal. Remember, though, I was responding to a post that specifically mentioned the Jeep WRANGLER as a toad, not a Cherokee. And, I stand by what I said: Jeep Wranglers, generally speaking are NOT a very comfortable everyday driving vehicle. Anyone thats owned or driven one knows, whether they want to admit to it or not. Oh, as far as the newer 4 door Wranglers are concerned, that bshpilot mentioned: A good friend of mine owns a new 4 door version, and I agree they've come a long way and those new 4 door ones are nice, and a huge improvement. Still, though, for a vehicle one is going to drive everyday to work and back or whatever....There are much, MUCH more comfortable vehicle choices out there that can easily be flat towed as well, cost significantly less, and get considerably better fuel mileage. Will
willald 07/28/14 03:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Whats the best car to tow ??

observations going down the road...i think you'll count more Jeep Wranglers being towed behind an RV than any other single make or model. Im unaware of any other automotive brand manufacture that makes an optional wiring harness made specifically to enable folks to tow their brand/model behind an RV or other vehicle. Indeed, Jeeps are very easy and simple when it comes to flat towing. However, they do not fit the bill for many folks, for various reasons. Especially for those for which the 'toad' has to also serve as an everyday driving vehicle when not camping/RVing. Jeeps are awesome for going offroad, but that offroad prowess comes at a price in terms of road manners, comfort. I know they've got much better in recent years, but overall, Jeeps can be a VERY uncomfortable ride on pavement, and due to their design they can also be extremely lacking in various 'creature comforts' many other vehicles have (yes, I have driven and rode in several of them). For that reason, many folks want nothing to do with them, for the vehicle they have to drive everyday. Guess just goes back to the fact that there is no such thing as a 'best' car to tow, 'cause everyone's wants, needs, likes, dislikes, etc. are going to be very different. Whats best for one person will be horrible for another. Will
willald 07/22/14 08:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Whats the best car to tow ??

The one you pick because you might not like my Prius and I'm keeping it so I will be mad if you tow it. ..I think this answer pretty much sums it all up, nothing else really has to be said.
willald 07/22/14 05:39am Class A Motorhomes
RE: V-10

Indeed, 2006 was the first year that the MH chassis got the new cylinder heads that boosted horsepower and torque. As one thats owned both an older V10 and now one with the newer V10, I will say that the difference in power is very noticeable, too. Ford actually came out with the more powerful V10 in 2005. Their F250 and F350 pickup trucks got the more powerful V10 starting with 2005 models. The new V10 didn't make its way into the F53 MH chassis until a year later, in 2006.
willald 07/21/14 07:38am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Diesel Pusher with Bunks?

The coolest one is the Newmar Allstar Bunkhouse model. It has a lower bedroom and an upper bedroom at the back of the coach. This can be done because it is a mid-engined diesel. Agreed, I have always liked that Allstar 3950 model. It is the only model I've seen that *might* could convince me to go to a diesel. 'Tis a crying shame that so few of them were built. However, DW does not share my enthusiasm over that model. She wants nothing to do with it, and cringes at the idea of ever having to climb up in that loft area (to pack, get kids clothes, etc. from up there, not to sleep, hahaha). Will
willald 07/18/14 09:42am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Diesel Pusher with Bunks?

I'm with YC1 also, especially if the kids are older. The bunks are "right there" outside the bedroom, next to the bathroom. Severely limits privacy in what I think of as "Mom and Dad's area". Yes, that is an issue, and is part of the reason why we stayed with a towable RV for several years before going to a MH - Can't beat the privacy a towable RV gives, with kid's bunkhouse one one end of the RV, and adult's bedroom on the other. If that privacy is a big issue, IMO one may be better off in a towable RV that allows more of that privacy. For us, we addressed that 'privacy' issue by installing a lock on the door going to our bedroom in the back. Between that, and turning on either the TV or AC fan in the back for 'white noise' to cover up 'other' noises....Privacy is not an issue for us. ;) Our kids r older, only one camps with us regularly. Our coach has 2 jack knife sofa's that convert to beds in seconds, and Jr. has to fold and stow his bedding and flip his bed closed immediately on waking up. There again, though, having them make up the beds as soon as they get up in the morning does not solve the problem in the evening - You lose your living, sitting area when they go to bed. That may well not be an issue for some, but for those of us that like to have some time of 'peace and quiet' after kids go to bed and before adults do....Well, the bunks are a requirement in that case. Will
willald 07/17/14 07:40am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Diesel Pusher with Bunks?

OK, here is you "other suggestion". If the kids are in their teens they may travel less often with you now. An rv can be a long term purchase so think to the future use a bit. If the kids are big enough to make their own beds then set some rules for them. They make it down and when you get up they do too. Our grandson lives with us full timers and he gets the bed made often before I am up. The precious space bunks would take up is better used for our purposes. Problem with that approach (using couch, dinette for kids to sleep) is that it means when they go to bed, you lose your living, sitting area, and just about have to go to bed same time the kids (or grandkids) do. While that may work for some, for many folks (including us) it will not. Nope, bunks are the only way for us. Kids really need to have their own 'space' that bunks provide. As for long term use, after kids grow up and don't go as much: Not a problem, it is very easy to convert bunks into storage space for other purposes when that time comes. Now, to addres the specific question of the original poster: When we were looking for bunk models, we found that manufacturers didn't really start making class A units with bunks, until long about 2007 or 2008. When we were looking ('bout 2 years ago), a DP from those years or newer were just not in our budget, all we looked at were right at or over $100k. I know they've depreciated some since then, but I still think it may be tough to find a DP with bunks (2007 or newer) in the 50-60k price range you mentioned.
willald 07/16/14 01:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: need help with purchase of new bunkhouse

I haven't looked at the two units in detail, but must say, that is an EXCELLENT review of them that Effy just provided! Lots of great info and good points to think about there. If it wasnt for the full wall Scwintek slideout, my vote based on that review would definitely be for the Thor Miramar. However, given some of the horrendous issues they have had with that slideout mechanism on larger slideouts.....I would be very, very nervous about buying a unit with such. At the very least, only way I'd buy that Miramar is if they threw in as part of the deal, a really, really good extended service contract that would cover EVERY aspect of that slideout!
willald 07/16/14 08:18am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tow dolly - not that bad after all

I would dread the day I would have to hook up in a total down poor. Agreed, but hooking up in a down pour would be no fun regardless whether you were towing 4 down or with a dolly. Of all the reasons we chose to go to four down towing, the threat/risk of having to hook up in the rain really wasn't one of them. Will
willald 07/14/14 11:42am Dinghy Towing
RE: Tow dolly - not that bad after all

I have towed four down with different cars for many years now. I traded the latest toad recently just before a trip and was faced with having to decide what to do. I had never used a tow dolly and the thread here and elsewhere gave me pause about doing it. But, I no longer had a four down towable and we were planning a big trip for the summer this year. So, went out and bought a used Acme Eze tow. I turned out to be one of those what is all the fuss about experiences. I towed my car over 6000 miles behind the Class C. Put it on and took it off as needed. It was EZ! The first couple times I had the straps coming loose - meaning there was a slight gap between the wheels and the stop after driving for a while, but then I bought a bigger wrench and cinched them a couple more clicks and no more issues. It took only a couple more minutes to connect the straps than wrestling with my Blue Ox and brakes did, so that was a wash. I did totally wear out a set of tires on the dolly though, thanks to the crappy roads in this country. I guess if I had the choice I would go four down, but overall the dolly experience was not a big deal and certainly not as bad as the four down fans might have us think. ..As one that dolly towed with the same dolly you have (Acme EZE), and now tows 4 down (and have for some time), I actually agree with you. Four down is definitely my first choice, but if circumstances changes and we were to go back to dolly towing, I'd be OK with it. However, it would only be with an Acme EZE tow dolly. The EZE dolly really does eliminate some of the disadvantages about dolly towing.
willald 07/14/14 09:51am Dinghy Towing
RE: Help choosing towing system Sunseeker Class C

with that logic I can only assume that it is not a good idea to over engineer something? No, over-engineering definitely has its merits. However, in this case, when that 'over-engineering' means spending $1k more to get a tow bar with 10k capacity vs 8k, when you have a much 'weaker link' in the chain limited to 5k (hitch receiver)....No, sorry, I'm not sure I'd call that over-engineering a good idea. Thats just MHO, though. (...And, thats without even getting into how much better and easier to use a brake system the Readybrake would be over an 'electronics box' type system like the Patriot.) But, its the Original poster's decision, not ours. I just thought that since the initial post initially asked for ways to do this without spending as much $$, that saving a bunch by going with an integrated tow bar and brake system that'd cost $1k or more less, would be a good idea.
willald 07/14/14 07:39am Dinghy Towing
RE: Help choosing towing system Sunseeker Class C

Not that it will change your mind reinita, but your Sunseeker's hitch is only rated to 5000 lbs. While there isn't anything wrong with over engineering on the tow bar, don't overlook how much your RV can tow. Thats a really good point, and yet another reason why the Blue Ox tow bar's 10k capacity vs 8k of the Readybrake really is insignificant; You'll exceed the hitch receiver's limit looong before you come close to the 8k limit of the Readybrake towbar. Will
willald 07/12/14 08:59pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Help choosing towing system Sunseeker Class C

Hmmm. It looks like the Blue Ox has a 10k towing capacity vs. the Readybrakes's 8k. We need the extr wiggle room because we plan to put a canoe and bikes on the Jeep. But thanks again for the suggestion. LOL, you could put 20 canoes and bikes on that Jeep, and still come nowhere near 8,000 lbs. :) But, whatever floats your boat. Will
willald 07/12/14 08:09pm Dinghy Towing
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