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 > Your search for posts made by 'wolfe10' found 940 matches.

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RE: Do you turn off your engine at the gas station?

Idle it ONLY long enough for the turbo to cool down. In most cases, having exited the highway and idled around the station lot, that means within a minute or two of pulling up to the pump, you are ready to shut down. Sure, if the station is at the top of a long grade and it is 110 degrees F out, idle a little longer. Reality-- here is what we do. Pull in to the pump. Dianne gets out and does the "credit card thing". I put on disposable gloves, then turn off the engine. By that time, the pump is ready to go.
wolfe10 11/24/14 07:12am Class A Motorhomes
RE: tires

wolfe10 11/23/14 06:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: **** foul odor ****

Make sure you turn off your bathroom fan before you flush. The number one cause of smell being pulled back in to the bathroom is a running fan when the toilet valve is opened. Randy And, if your fan is reversible, have it on INTAKE when flushing.
wolfe10 11/23/14 05:45pm Tech Issues
RE: 295/80R22.5 Latest Tire Prices

wolfe10 11/23/14 04:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: **** foul odor ****

I would suggest your approach is incorrect. You will never succeed in making a gray or black tank contents "smell good" or "not smell". Instead, concentrate in keeping the odor in the tank from getting into the interior. This is done by keeping air pressure in the tank lower than that inside the RV. There are several venturi-based devices that mount on the roof vent for the tank that help. Also, check the air admittance valve under the sinks. Their rubber can dry out and allow gray tank odor into the interior. Of course, there could be a physical reason for the change. For example, the vent pipe may have slipped down into the tank, a bird or insect nest may be blocking the roof vent, etc.
wolfe10 11/23/14 07:39am Tech Issues
RE: Electrical truck to trailer connection question

Jack, The reasons for answers all over the place is there is NOT an industry standard for truck/trailer wiring. Many only come with running, brake and turn. If you have a "battery to battery" positive and ground wired into the pig tail, sure you could make up a longer pigtail-- perhaps with just the positive and ground (since you do not need running, brake and turn lights). But, the next question is do you have 120 VAC in your storage area-- where a converter/battery charger could do this. And if you do a large gauge truck battery to trailer battery or 12 VDC distribution panel, be sure you have an in line fuse at both ends-- right at the battery, as either battery should be hot (assuming the trailer battery is installed). The more details you give us on how yours is wired, the better we can answer.
wolfe10 11/22/14 06:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Front Air Pressure

And, normal cut-in to cut-out is 10-20 PSI. Example cut-in 105 PSI, cut-out 120 PSI. 140 sounds high. Check with Freightliner, Gaffney. Most governors are easily adjustable.
wolfe10 11/22/14 02:45pm Tech Issues
RE: Stove problem

Sounds like the thermocouple is not properly located (in or near flame). Look at its location vs that on the other burner.
wolfe10 11/21/14 08:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Chasing electrical gremlins - GFCI outlet puzzle

Wayne, Indeed, replace the offending GFI. They DO fail. Your wiring "around it" showed that the wiring was OK.
wolfe10 11/21/14 08:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Down and out in Spartanberg SC

Two "suspects". Exhaust brake stuck closed-- access under the bed and check it. Fuel filter clogged. But, likely would NOT go from perfect to rough idle at once. Check exhaust brake!
wolfe10 11/21/14 08:46pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Park Brake Off While in Storage

The vast majority of DP's DO use the rear brakes as the parking brake. Easy to tell-- look at the back side of the brake drum. If TWO cans, one is service brakes, one is parking brake. The service brake can is air applied, spring released (not strong springs). The parking brake is spring applied (STRONG spring) air released. Yes, DP's with hydraulic brakes often have drive shaft parking brakes.
wolfe10 11/21/14 03:58pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Park Brake Off While in Storage

I suspect that storing with the brakes off will not work out. The default with no air pressure is for the brakes to engage. So when the air bleeds down, shouldn't the brakes engage, regardless of how you stored it? You are correct, IF two things happen (kind of a combination): There is a leak in the air system and the coach is stored long enough that the air bleeds off (below 40 PSI) on the rear brakes. Because, as you say the rear brakes WILL apply below that-- spring applied, air released. The only way to guarantee long-term "no parking brake" is to cage the rear brake canister-- NOT recommended.
wolfe10 11/20/14 08:48pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Park Brake Off While in Storage

Does the alarm sound, even with the key removed? Assume you are blocking the wheels/tires. Understand your concern, but if the coach is not driven in rain just prior to storage and you have used your brakes (i.e. heated them up) this is not too likely an issue. Parking with wet shoes/drums, yes, rusting locked up is a real possibility.
wolfe10 11/20/14 08:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Rough enough?

Tell us what year and chassis you have and we can likely be of more assistance.
wolfe10 11/20/14 06:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: do gassers offer anything like the DP engine brake

Paul, I look at it a little differently. The correct speed of descent in any heavy vehicle is the speed/gear/use of any non-service brake that keeps your speed in EQUILIBRIUM. That is you are neither speeding up nor slowing down and do not need to use your service brakes to do this. We were descending a 17% grade in the Green Mountains of VT several years ago. 2nd gear with exhaust brake on-- doing about 22 MPH. We easily could have taken the curves at 35-40 MPH (so grade, not road shape dictated speed). Dianne was worried that someone would run up on us. Around the next bend was a loaded logging truck, doing his equilibrium speed-- about 8 MPH. We blasted right by him and continued on down the mountain. Both of us were descending correctly for our rigs.
wolfe10 11/19/14 04:37pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: do gassers offer anything like the DP engine brake

We are combining several very different issues: The mechanical aspects (basically braking HP/weight)-- a matter of physics! The "driver" aspects. Some can safely drive ANYTHING anywhere. Others with no mountain experience are very different and need a machine that will "forgive" their mistakes. Add to that that there are a lot of drivers with no mechanical background-- who don't even know that you can't use your service brakes to keep speed down on a long descent in ANY heavy vehicle. Who don't know that brake fluid's boiling point drops with age, etc. IMO the driver is the more critical part of the equation. Bottom line is there is more to the equation than machine alone.
wolfe10 11/19/14 03:56pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ford cruise control

Two different systems working together to maintain speed on both hills and level ground. It absolutely WILL maintain the speed you set but it may scare the******out of you!! AND, use more gasoline-- high RPM= more fuel consumption. Most efficient gasoline engine is at lower RPM, higher throttle position-- less vacuum means less HP lost to "pulling the piston down". Nothing new here-- BMW pushed this on their "e series" many decades ago. Many of the tuners delay downshifting until higher throttle position/more speed drop is reached. That is the way I would want mine set up as well.
wolfe10 11/18/14 04:34pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1995 F53 Fan Clutch - defective Ford parts?

I agree. Having the fan clutch engage (i.e. take a lot of HP and make a lot of noise) at temperatures BELOW thermostatic control means it will be on all the time. Exception is if the 170 degrees is AIR temperature at the fan-- suspect air temperature will be lower than coolant temperature. Inquiring minds want to know.
wolfe10 11/18/14 12:42pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Monarch Butterflies

Clicky: http://www.nytimes.com/2014/11/18/science/monarchs-may-be-loved-to-death.html?emc=edit_th_20141118&nl=todaysheadlines&nlid=51868945&_r=1
wolfe10 11/18/14 08:30am RVing in Mexico and South America
RE: Considering this used Class A.......

The 8.3 is a pretty bomb-proof engine, as is the Allison. So, if fluids appear good and coolant test is OK, I suspect the engine/transmission part will be less likely to be an issue.
wolfe10 11/17/14 12:54pm Class A Motorhomes
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