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 > Your search for posts made by 'wolfe10' found 850 matches.

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RE: Allison 3000 Hesitates When Starting Out

How long after cold start up do you try to move? Best advice: Start engine. After 20-30 seconds, use cruise control to raise idle speed to around 1,000 RPM for quicker warm up. Do not start driving until temperature gauge starts moving. If you still have this issue and the temperature gauge has moved off the "cold peg", have a Caterpillar dealer look at it. There were some issues with this, but you do not want to push any stone cold diesel-- hence the poor throttle response was designed in. But, if this feature stays active too long, a Caterpillar dealer can remedy it.
wolfe10 06/28/16 07:49am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Onan LP Generator Problem

Let me slightly restate that: A liquid LP generator WILL run just fine on HIGH PRESSURE VAPOR (i.e. "T" off before vapor regulator that supplies the house appliances. Have many hours of running a Liquid LP Onan like this after in-depth discussions with engineers at Marshall Gas and Onan. And, while you could still get contaminates leaching from the hose, you will NOT get any long-chain hydrocarbon contaminates from the propane, as those do not vaporize. Agree, if you are supplying it with vapor downstream of the regulator (i.e. under 1 PSI of pressure) it will not work without modification.
wolfe10 06/27/16 07:25pm Tech Issues
RE: 2nd LP regulator fail in 2 years - oil in regulator!!?

Yup, two separate issues.
wolfe10 06/27/16 09:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Allison 3000 Hesitates When Starting Out

Assume from your coach signature that you have the Allison 3000 series transmission. Let's drill down a little more into "what is happening". When the engine is running and you go from "N" to "D" on the Allison shift pad, what happens? Do you get that slight clunk and if you release the brake does the coach start moving forward? If so, sounds like the transmission is doing its thing properly. If throttle response is the issue, be aware some engines (do not know what engine you have) DO have a delay when starting out cold to keep drivers from hammering a cold engine. So: What engine do you have? Does this only happen when the engine is cold or all the time?
wolfe10 06/27/16 06:13am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hydraulic Booster Pump -stuck? Ford 460 OshKosh

Sounds like the electric booster pump for brakes-- runs when engine off/brakes on. Pull UP on the brake pedal. The pedal may be sticking a little and/or master cylinder plunger may be a little long and need adjustment. Again, it should run if engine off and brakes on.
wolfe10 06/26/16 03:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Newbie Question

Since you are tripping the house GFI, not the breaker, see if you can identify the cause: Turn off RV main breaker and unplug all appliances. Plug in and see if the GFI trips. If so, the problem is between your shore power cord male end and the breaker box. If not, start turning on things until you identify the culprit.
wolfe10 06/26/16 06:42am Tech Issues
RE: Water dripping inside from my AC

Could be clogged evaporator/condensate drain OR could be bad base gasket (the one around the 14X14" roof opening. Could also be a combination. Once on the roof, easy to tell-- check the condensate drain first-- and while there probably a good idea to clean the condenser! If that is not the issue, then buy a new base gasket. Yes, sometimes you can tighten the 4 bolts and further compress the old gasket, but they DO have a finite life and are not expensive. Pretty easy work with two people due, not to weight but to size of the roof unit.
wolfe10 06/25/16 07:38pm Tech Issues
RE: RV sitting for over 2 years - recommendations

If, he really has "cranked it up when he thinks about it" (but doesn't drive it) be sure to take the oil fill cap off the engine and check for moisture/RUST. No way to get rid of the moisture in a diesel engine except on the road under load. Starting and idling, even fast idle only adds moisture to the crankcase. Said another way, you can get the COOLANT up to operating temperature without driving, but can NOT get the OIL/CRANKCASE up to operating temperature.
wolfe10 06/25/16 05:19pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Batteries

Yes, buy a digital voltmeter (starting under $20). Tell us what the voltage is at the batteries. Read at the positive terminal with the large-gauge cable going to the RV. Other lead on the negative terminal with the large-gauge cable going to the RV. Also, tell us what converter, charger or inverter/charger you have. Many are programmable. Also, with eye protection on, shore power and generator off, check water level in the batteries-- they may be overfilled. And, while doing the water check (be sure to use distilled water), an excellent under $10 tool to check battery condition is a BATTERY HYDROMETER from any auto parts house. If you want the real story on the batteries, let us know the hydrometer readings on the individual cells.
wolfe10 06/25/16 04:19pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Suggestions for making my F53 a little easier to drive

Bump steer most commonly occurs when the axle is inadequately located/attached to the chassis. So, one front wheel hits a bump. It drives that side of the axle back causing it to steer in that direction. Particularly common on Safari coaches with Torsilastic suspension, as there is only ONE forward link (driver's side). So, if right wheel hits a bump that side of the axle is driven rearward, which IS a steering input. Easy fix is to add a forward link on the right side. Created quite a cottage industry for Ralph Andrews/Pioneer Metals in WA state.
wolfe10 06/25/16 12:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Caster wedge and improving handling in wind and ba roads

Caster shims are very common-- any shop that does OTR truck alignment/front end work will have them. Agree, caster in the 4.5 left and 5.0 right would be where I would aim.
wolfe10 06/25/16 06:10am Class A Motorhomes
RE: IRS calling

Because it is a reasonably widely used SCAM. The IRS will NEVER call anyone!
wolfe10 06/24/16 04:15pm Around the Campfire
RE: RV Tire Loading/Inflation Safety Software

Please explain the "at various ambient temperatures". While PSI DOES go up with temperature (Ideal Gas Law), the recommended PSI for a given load does not change. In real terms what this means for many RV'ers is that they set the PSI to the correct pressure (based on actual weight of the heavier wheel position on each axle) in the winter. Then the normal PSI loss is countered in the summer by the increase in ambient temperature. Good to go for the summer. Need to "reinflate" in the fall/winter.
wolfe10 06/23/16 04:45pm General RVing Issues
RE: Dometic RM2652

How far into the "it is running on propane does it get: Do you hear the clicking of the igniter? Do you hear/feel the gas solenoid opening? Do you see any flame above the burner tube? More details please.
wolfe10 06/23/16 01:22pm Tech Issues
RE: master battery switch

Again depends on the coach. First hand experience that on one or more of our coaches, the salesman switch (the disconnect by the door) left the refrigerator operational, propane detector and propane solenoid operational. I like this layout, as I can quickly turn off all lights, etc, but still have the refrigerator and safety equipment on 24/7. There is no "here is how they are all wired.
wolfe10 06/23/16 01:18pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Magnum ms 2812 inverter

Have someone turn an inverter-powered load, while you check voltage at the house battery and then again at the lugs on the inverter itself. THAT is how you tell what the problem is! Could be: Bad battery(ies) Could be that the batteries are not fully charged. Could be bad connection at battery bank or inverter Could be inadequate gauge wire between battery bank and inverter. Could be an issue with the Inverter.
wolfe10 06/23/16 01:12pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: master battery switch

Correct. But on different models there may still be some things that the switch does NOT turn off. Refrigerator 12 VDC is one common example.
wolfe10 06/23/16 10:22am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 110 hookup only ???

The real question is does he get one leg or two with the dog bone.... Not trying to be difficult, but I have never seen a 30 male to 50 female adapter that did not connect the single hot on the 30 amp end to BOTH hots on the 50. What am I missing? And, why would anyone consider buying such an adapter???
wolfe10 06/23/16 06:49am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 110 hookup only ???

Would be VERY interested in adapters other than this-- link please!!!! Adapters are not created equal.. So if going from 15 amp to 30 amp to 50, then you may have one leg.. http://www.dmbruss.com/images/FullTimingLifeStyle/Adapters/50-30ampDogbone.jpg height=500 width=550 Please post a link to this product. Thanks.
wolfe10 06/22/16 05:53pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 110 hookup only ???

Have never seen a 30 amp male to 50 amp female that did not tie the single hot on the 30 amp end to BOTH hots on the 50 amp end. So, all circuits in the coach have power. But, you must limit total usage to under 30 amps. And a 15 amp male to 30 amp female, used "in front of" a 30 male to 50 female will again power all coach circuits, but you will be limited to 15 amps total consumption. Would be VERY interested in adapters other than this-- link please!!!!
wolfe10 06/22/16 04:48pm Class A Motorhomes
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