RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog


RV Sales




RV Parks


RV Club


RV Buyers Guide


Roadside Assistance


Extended Service Plan


RV Travel Assistance


RV Credit Card


RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact

Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'wolfe10' found 936 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 47  
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: engine block heater

As Jerry said, locate the switch. If no switch, it should be on a separate breaker in the 120 VAC breaker box.
wolfe10 11/27/14 08:45pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Auto Fire Extinguisher

But I have a spare halon extinguisher in the salon area. I know it will not put the fire out, but I may BUY TIME. Even a little bit of time can make a difference If the dogs or smoke alarm wake me I have 3 eight pound fire extinguishers in the bed room. I just want enough time to get out. Be aware that halon displaces oxygen-- it will not only extinguish fires, but very importantly WILL NOT PROVIDE YOU OR YOUR PETS AIR TO BREATH. So, while you may not burn, please know that you will have to get out very quickly.
wolfe10 11/27/14 08:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 50 to 30 amp service

I had an RV tech tell me I should not plug my 30 amp service motorhome into a 50 amp service. Could this create a problem Thanks in advance for your advice Maybe he was thinking the 240 VAC thingy that happens to 30 ampers on a regular basis, it seems. But, not at a CG where 30 amp is ALWAYS one hot, one neutral and a ground. Sure, a home dryer is 240 with two hots and a ground and looks similar to a 30 amp plug, but SURE IS NOT.
wolfe10 11/26/14 02:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Auto Fire Extinguisher

Halon works well in confined spaces where it can displace air (and the oxygen that supports combustion). It is of MUCH less value in open areas. Even if it temporarily displaces the air and the fire goes out, any source that remains hot enough, will reignite when the halon is displaced by air.
wolfe10 11/26/14 01:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 50 to 30 amp service

Theoretically, your shore power cord and ATS are not sized to carry 50 amps. But, as stated, before you could pull more than 30 amps, your coach main breaker would trip. In the real world, go for it.
wolfe10 11/26/14 01:12pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Sorry, but another Nitrogen in tires question

Agreed. But, go to a place that uses air tools and will have an air dryer that removes moisture. Those cheap coin op ones do not.
wolfe10 11/26/14 07:06am Tech Issues
RE: Electrical Problems! Chassis Battery / Alternator Issues.

Easy to diagnose an alternator with a digital voltmeter (start under $20 and a real necessity on any RV). Engine off, shore power off. Check chassis battery voltage at the battery. Fully charged is 12.7 VDC. Surface charge may have it above that, though turning on headlights with all charging devices off for a few minutes will dissipate the surface charge. Start engine and have someone hold it at high idle (1000 to 1200 RPM). Recheck voltage at the chassis battery. Should be around 14 VDC. Turn on headlights, dash HVAC fan to high-- i.e. turn on some high amp loads. Voltage at the chassis battery should stay around 14 VDC. Let us know what you find.
wolfe10 11/25/14 09:16am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Inverter/Alternator Question

What does your dash voltmeter indicate when this occurs. With that large an inverter it is possible to overload an alternator, even a large one on your DP. I would start looking at what other loads are on that you are not aware of. With the appliances you mention, there should be no problem. Also check for loose connections at the battery and inverter that could be causing the voltage drop. If no extra loads and no poor connections, next step would be to stop when this occurs and use a digital voltmeter to check voltage AT THE INVERTER. That will tell you if it is an internal issue in the inverter.
wolfe10 11/25/14 07:40am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Pre Purchase Advice

Would love to see anything in writing from Caterpillar or any other engine manufacturer recommending overfilling the crankcase by a GALLON. Common response by a diesel engine would be to puke excessive oil out the crankcase breather-- leaving a real mess on your coach and toad.
wolfe10 11/24/14 09:38pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Do you turn off your engine at the gas station?

Idle it ONLY long enough for the turbo to cool down. In most cases, having exited the highway and idled around the station lot, that means within a minute or two of pulling up to the pump, you are ready to shut down. Sure, if the station is at the top of a long grade and it is 110 degrees F out, idle a little longer. Reality-- here is what we do. Pull in to the pump. Dianne gets out and does the "credit card thing". I put on disposable gloves, then turn off the engine. By that time, the pump is ready to go.
wolfe10 11/24/14 07:12am Class A Motorhomes
RE: tires

wolfe10 11/23/14 06:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: **** foul odor ****

Make sure you turn off your bathroom fan before you flush. The number one cause of smell being pulled back in to the bathroom is a running fan when the toilet valve is opened. Randy And, if your fan is reversible, have it on INTAKE when flushing.
wolfe10 11/23/14 05:45pm Tech Issues
RE: 295/80R22.5 Latest Tire Prices

wolfe10 11/23/14 04:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: **** foul odor ****

I would suggest your approach is incorrect. You will never succeed in making a gray or black tank contents "smell good" or "not smell". Instead, concentrate in keeping the odor in the tank from getting into the interior. This is done by keeping air pressure in the tank lower than that inside the RV. There are several venturi-based devices that mount on the roof vent for the tank that help. Also, check the air admittance valve under the sinks. Their rubber can dry out and allow gray tank odor into the interior. Of course, there could be a physical reason for the change. For example, the vent pipe may have slipped down into the tank, a bird or insect nest may be blocking the roof vent, etc.
wolfe10 11/23/14 07:39am Tech Issues
RE: Electrical truck to trailer connection question

Jack, The reasons for answers all over the place is there is NOT an industry standard for truck/trailer wiring. Many only come with running, brake and turn. If you have a "battery to battery" positive and ground wired into the pig tail, sure you could make up a longer pigtail-- perhaps with just the positive and ground (since you do not need running, brake and turn lights). But, the next question is do you have 120 VAC in your storage area-- where a converter/battery charger could do this. And if you do a large gauge truck battery to trailer battery or 12 VDC distribution panel, be sure you have an in line fuse at both ends-- right at the battery, as either battery should be hot (assuming the trailer battery is installed). The more details you give us on how yours is wired, the better we can answer.
wolfe10 11/22/14 06:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Front Air Pressure

And, normal cut-in to cut-out is 10-20 PSI. Example cut-in 105 PSI, cut-out 120 PSI. 140 sounds high. Check with Freightliner, Gaffney. Most governors are easily adjustable.
wolfe10 11/22/14 02:45pm Tech Issues
RE: Stove problem

Sounds like the thermocouple is not properly located (in or near flame). Look at its location vs that on the other burner.
wolfe10 11/21/14 08:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Chasing electrical gremlins - GFCI outlet puzzle

Wayne, Indeed, replace the offending GFI. They DO fail. Your wiring "around it" showed that the wiring was OK.
wolfe10 11/21/14 08:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Down and out in Spartanberg SC

Two "suspects". Exhaust brake stuck closed-- access under the bed and check it. Fuel filter clogged. But, likely would NOT go from perfect to rough idle at once. Check exhaust brake!
wolfe10 11/21/14 08:46pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Park Brake Off While in Storage

The vast majority of DP's DO use the rear brakes as the parking brake. Easy to tell-- look at the back side of the brake drum. If TWO cans, one is service brakes, one is parking brake. The service brake can is air applied, spring released (not strong springs). The parking brake is spring applied (STRONG spring) air released. Yes, DP's with hydraulic brakes often have drive shaft parking brakes.
wolfe10 11/21/14 03:58pm Class A Motorhomes
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 47  

New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2014 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS