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 > Your search for posts made by 'wolfe10' found 458 matches.

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RE: Replacing Battery Interconnect Solinoid

While tbat brand has fouur studs, that isn't always the case. Neither of my rigs have had an isolated stud. Both were grounded through the solenoid case. Percussion persuasion is not recomended, you appear to have found your problem, trust you meter and your gut. Yes, some solenoids are grounded through the metal body of the solenoid. If so, and it is not being screwed into clean metal, just run a wire (small gauge is fine, since it only carries a few amps) to a good ground. Same as you would if the solenoid has two small terminals (one being for ground). Said another way, makes no difference-- electrically they are the same. Agee that percussion persuasion is not a "fix". But, it might get him through getting the chassis battery charged this time. Another work around is to label the wire(s) on one of the large lugs and ADD THEM to the other large lug. Electrically the same as if the solenoid is working/continuity.
wolfe10 06/20/18 11:36am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Where to get chassis work for Ford Allegro

What age coach/chassis? What do you need done?
wolfe10 06/20/18 11:29am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Replacing Battery Interconnect Solinoid

It needs to be a CONSTANT DUTY solenoid. Probably 200 amp. May get it to work short term by "percussive persuasion". Give it a light, sharp rap with the plastic handle of a screw driver. That will sometimes free them up for a time or two. Here is a common one: http://colehersee.com.au/product/spst-12v-200a-continuous-duty-solenoid/
wolfe10 06/19/18 01:45pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Onan 5500 - too much fuel?

Would be SHOCKED if this is not an "in Carburetor" problem.
wolfe10 06/18/18 03:21pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ready to go w/ 2 6v batteries: converter/wire question

If you are plugged in most of the time, the answer is yes, no problem. The only time the smaller gauge wire/longer run will limit voltage (due to resistance) is at higher charging amps. Now, if you do a lot of dry camping where you are paying fuel to run a generator and desire a quick charge for deeply discharged batteries, absolutely, consider larger gauge wire. Another option is to ADD another wire to "supplement" the smaller than desired wire. This is pretty easy to verify: With batteries discharged (below 12.2 VDC which is 50%) plug in/start the generator. You should be at maximum charge amps. Check voltage at the converter and compare to that at the batteries. This will give you the maximum difference. As batteries charge, you will notice that the voltage at batteries more closely matches voltage at the converter.
wolfe10 06/18/18 09:16am Tech Issues
RE: Boondocker converter setting

Number will be different if you are using it just for battery recharging (minimum availability of 120 VAC (in which case bulk rate voltage is correct-- probably around 14.2 VDC) OR If you will have 120 VAC all the time (in which case you will want float rate voltage-- probably around 13.2 VDC)
wolfe10 06/16/18 02:13pm Tech Issues
RE: Onan 5500 - too much fuel?

You have a stuck float needle or gunk in the passages, Take it off, take it apart and clean it. Yup, the most likely suspect.
wolfe10 06/16/18 12:37pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: very low coolant

anon, That still does not tell you if the cooling system is low. Only removing the radiator cap and looking will tell you.
wolfe10 06/16/18 12:20pm Tech Issues
RE: Generator keeps stopping

Please tell us what generator you have-- we don't know if it is diesel, gasoline or LP.
wolfe10 06/16/18 10:03am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Electrical help please

My generator gives me 240 volts with 30 amps, which is 120 volts and 30 amps on each leg. If I connect this to my 5r, I would then get 2 lines of 120 volts and 30 amps to each leg going to my 5r. This should then allow me to run both of my ACs and a few lights but I'd have to be careful not to run much more as I'd trip the breaker on my generator. Knowing what generator you have would help confirm, but if, like 50 amp shore power, you have two hots (30 amps each), a neutral and a ground, AND it is wired correctly, it would work as you say.
wolfe10 06/16/18 09:30am Tech Issues
RE: Electrical help please

Most 30 to 50 adapters connect to both legs. I would suggest that ALL 30 male to 50 female adapters connect the single hot in the 30 amp end to BOTH hots in the 50 amp end.
wolfe10 06/16/18 08:44am Tech Issues
RE: very low coolant

You need to open the radiator cap and VERIFY that level in there is at the top-- yes with the radiator cold. Let us know what you find.
wolfe10 06/16/18 08:42am Tech Issues
RE: Electrical

P or W chassis-- may be different.
wolfe10 06/16/18 08:40am Class A Motorhomes
RE: very low coolant

So, was the radiator or just the overflow reservoir low???
wolfe10 06/16/18 08:27am Tech Issues
RE: Electrical help please

When I hook to 30 amp service, I get one leg of 120 volts and 30 amps on one leg with 0 volts to the second leg which will allow me to run only one AC. Then, your 30 male to 50 female adapter is bad. In the adapter, the single hot in the 30 amp end is wired to BOTH hots on the 50 amp end. If safe working around 120 VAC, check for correct voltage at the 50 amp end of the adapter: Either outer straight (hots) to center straight (neutral) OR to center round (ground) should read 120 VAC.
wolfe10 06/16/18 07:43am Tech Issues
RE: Help: 2 axle seal failures on this trip, leaking again

Out of spec (too loose) wheel bearing clearance can also contribute to seal wear and the wheel works/wobbles. Have they checked for proper end-play (.003- .005")?
wolfe10 06/16/18 07:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Help: 2 axle seal failures on this trip, leaking again

Yes, let us know what chassis or axle you have. Did it leak out the inner seal or outer seal? If outer, what is the condition of the center rubber plug-- they can shrink.
wolfe10 06/15/18 02:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tire covers for duallys

You only need to cover the outer tire.
wolfe10 06/15/18 10:58am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Tachometer has stopped working Safari Sahara Diesel

So, tell us what terminals the alternator has OR its model number. All will have: B+ for positive alternator output to battery or battery isolator. Ground-- some ground through metal to metal contact, some have a separate ground lug and wire. Some will have a "sense wire" from chassis battery side of the battery isolator to the alternator sense terminal (small gauge wire). Some will have an excitor wire which is hot only when ignition is on. Some will have a tach out terminal.
wolfe10 06/14/18 06:51pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: My Class C Majestic is loud and all over the road!

We REALLY need a "what is the source of the noise/sound". Without that there is no way we can assist. If cabinets squeaking, discussion of engine fan are useless. And, visa versa.
wolfe10 06/14/18 04:04pm Class C Motorhomes
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