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 > Your search for posts made by 'wolfe10' found 963 matches.

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Diesel RV Club Rally

If you own a diesel-powered coach and want to learn more about its "care and feeding" (actually how to reduce cost of ownership): July 17, 2016 to July 22, 2016 Brennan Beach RV Resort, Pulaski, NY Both a good time and good learning experience. 3 half day Maintenance Seminars. Not the "how to" but "what needs to be done and why to minimize cost of DP ownership". Important seminars for those who do their own work and even more important for those who do not! For more information: http://www.dieselrvclub.org/event-2161811 Hope to see you there.
wolfe10 05/03/16 04:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: RV SWAY

Welcome. Yes, there are a number of aftermarket products that will help. BUT, first verify that the OE is in reasonable condition: Check sway bar bushings-- if you can see daylight, replace them with polyurethane. Are you carrying the proper PSI in your standard front air bags (inside coil springs)? Check for play in the steering linkage, particularly the left bell crank. Let us know what you find and we can go from there.
wolfe10 05/03/16 03:58pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Keeping toad battery charged

Mike, No, your toad and coach battery both accept/work with the same charge voltage so no voltage-reducing isolator is necessary or even desired. Here is how to do it: In-line fuse at both coach chassis battery and toad battery. 8 gauge wire from each battery to either separate plug or incorporate it into a toad plug with more prongs. You will also run an 8 gauge wire from coach chassis ground to toad battery negative. Can use a heavy gauge separate 2 wire connector or as mentioned above incorporate it into a male/female toad plug with more prongs. If you often dry camp and sometimes do not disconnect the toad electrical connection, the above set up can continue to drain chassis battery. An easy modification is to use a 40 amp relay (under $10 at any auto parts house). Come off the chassis battery, through the in-line fuse to the relay. Use an ignition hot source to close the relay to send power to the toad. Now, it will only charge when the coach ignition is on. If you do it yourself, total cost should be under $25.
wolfe10 05/03/16 09:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hose pressure

Please tell us what brand/model hydraulic system you have.
wolfe10 05/02/16 07:45pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Difference between two Alliance fuel filters

Ron, Absolutely correct. You want a 9-30 micron primary to catch the "rocks" and then a 2-5 micron (depending on engine manufacturer's specs for your engine) secondary filter. Having a 3 micron primary followed by a 3 secondary means the primary will clog quickly and the secondary will have a "free ride". Makes no sense.
wolfe10 05/01/16 07:23pm Tech Issues
RE: Thermal Breaker

I re-torqued everything I had access to, 120V and 12V. Yup, part of the annual inspection! Most 120 VAC breaker boxes are designed for houses. A "rolling earthquake" tends to loosen connections.
wolfe10 05/01/16 04:40pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Difference between two Alliance fuel filters

Ron, If this is the PRIMARY fuel filter/water separator and you have a secondary fuel filter (fine filter) a 9 is perfect. It is actually much better than a 3 primary and 2 or 3 secondary. Sure if only one filter or if this were your secondary filter, I agree this is not what you want.
wolfe10 04/30/16 08:12pm Tech Issues
RE: to buy a diesel

Actually, I would suggest that the older and lower the price the MORE you need an inspection. A couple of hundred dollars to keep you from buying a real money pit or at least letting you know what needs to be done is money very well invested. Same, whether RV, boat, home.... If you are not an expert, hire one. That is sure what we do.
wolfe10 04/30/16 09:25am Class A Motorhomes
Diesel RV Club Rally

July 17, 2016 to July 22, 2016 Brennan Beach RV Resort, Pulaski, NY Both a good time and good learning experience. 3 half day Maintenance Seminars. Not the "how to" but "what needs to be done and why to minimize cost of DP ownership". Important seminars for those who do their own work and even more important for those who do not! For more information: http://www.dieselrvclub.org/event-2161811 Hope to see you there.
wolfe10 04/30/16 08:07am Rallies, Shows and Gatherings
RE: to buy a diesel

Let's not turn this into a "Ford vs Chevy" discussion. I am not aware of any BAD engines in the time frame/price range the OP mentioned. Sure, some coaches with better HP/weight ratios, side vs rear radiator, etc...
wolfe10 04/30/16 08:00am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Radiator Warranty

Contact Freightliner in Gaffney with your VIN. Freightliner 800 385-4357 If you are the original owner, have the sale/in-service date when you bought it. Where is it leaking-- seam, hole from rock or debris, salt corrosion damage.....
wolfe10 04/29/16 04:28pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 30/50 amp vs. adding the second optional ac unit

Yes, with two heavy-draw appliances (both A/C's) you want one on L1 and one on L2 on your 50 amp RV. So, yes assuming your shore power cord is 50 amp (4 prongs) THAT is what you need.
wolfe10 04/29/16 03:29pm Tech Issues
RE: to buy a diesel

The good news is that unless totally abused the Allison 3000 and 4000 6 speed transmissions are close to bombproof. Same for diesel engines during that time period. Sure, if run out of oil or WAY overheated, they can die prematurely. And, yes a clogged CAC (Charge Air Cooler) which is immediately behind the fan on rear radiator coaches would suggest that it has not been maintained as it should and MAY have been overheated. If you are novice at this, make any contract "Contingent upon inspection satisfactory to buyer". Hire an independent inspector who is both familiar with chassis and RV house systems. Yes, if you already know the RV house systems and can check them yourself, then the chassis part is all you need. Let's face it, you could replace every appliance in a motorhome and have money left over for the price of an engine, so the chassis/drivetrain is what you want closely inspected. Is a good inspection a guarantee that there will be no problems-- I think all of us know that isn't true. But, it goes a long way, and if issues are found during an inspection, opens the door to renegotiate the price or if an inspection reveals excessive issues, to move on to the next coach.
wolfe10 04/29/16 02:25pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Exhaust brake with Cruise Control on ??

As you can see, there is no "standard" way that exhaust/compression brakes are wired. One could give good reasons for the wide variety of ways these are set up. Learn how yours works. If you would prefer it to operate differently, ask your chassis/coach maker it the change is possible.
wolfe10 04/29/16 12:53pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Has anyone installed sway bars on their own?

The question calls to mind your skill set and desires to do it rather than how complex the job is. Said another way, it is not a complex job-- but drilling a frame rail requires the right tool and a bit of knowledge in how to drill through metal (proper bit, proper drill RPM, lubrication...). I have installed several, including the drilling. Ain't fun laying on your back drilling, but not rocket science either.
wolfe10 04/28/16 07:36am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Air Hose Mounting

I would not leave an air hose up there. It is subject to heat from the generator, dirt and water. Store the hose in a basement. Cover the chuck with the finger of a disposable glove (like I use to dump tanks and fill with diesel) to keep dirt out of the ball bearings.
wolfe10 04/28/16 06:28am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Best fuel economy speed

Really two different questions here. Speaking from DP perspective, gas will be slightly different. Best economic speed, flat ground: At peak torque RPM in 5th (not 6th gear). This is from my ScanGauge D. This is generally too low a speed for safe highway driving. Best economic speed, rolling hills: About 200 RPM above peak torque RPM in 5th gear (so that it does not downshift on every hill). Best REASONABLE economic speed, flat ground: At peak torque RPM in 6th gear. Best Reasonable economic speed, rolling hills: About 200 RPM above peak torque RPM in 6th gear. Note: some manufacturers chose gear ratios that really don't give you a "good MPG" speed/gear-- to be in 6th gear, your speed is such that aerodynamic drag is significant.
wolfe10 04/27/16 09:19am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 110/220 indicated on 09 trailer???

Not sure I understand the question about two 1500 watt heaters going. Most 120 VAC 50 amp breaker boxes are laid out with alternating hots-- so the top breaker would be, say, L1, second one L2, third one L1.... No idea what position each outlet/appliance is supplied from in this box. But you could certainly determine this visually.
wolfe10 04/26/16 07:36am Tech Issues
RE: Older RV choice ... Tiffin Zephyr vs Holiday Rambler

Was not aware that the Zephyr was ever built with a Caterpillar engine. Thought all were Cummins. Not that it makes a difference, both are excellent engines.
wolfe10 04/25/16 08:21am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Converting to Air Levellers from Hydraulic

Yup, HWH would be the place to consult. They do both air and hydraulic leveling systems. They do the design, manufacturing and repair.
wolfe10 04/24/16 08:18pm Class A Motorhomes
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