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 > Your search for posts made by 'wolfe10' found 931 matches.

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RE: Wiring question help please

Particularly if this is in the POSITIVE feed, that needs to be a protected/insulated spade connector.
wolfe10 09/03/15 07:04pm Tech Issues
RE: Jack will not fully retract

What brand? I know HWH had some with weak springs. Replacing the springs fixed it-- not a difficult job.
wolfe10 09/03/15 02:39pm Tech Issues
RE: Side or rear radiator diesel pusher

Are you saying the air to cool is coming off the outside of the coach into the bay? Is this true? Can someone confirm. If so I would think that is a big advantage - cooler air. Yes, with a side radiator, air flows from the side of the coach through the CAC (Charge Air Cooler), then radiator. The fan(s) are inside that/in the engine room and SUCK air from the outside. With a rear radiator, air is sucked from below, after passing over the (hot) rear axle, transmission and engine. The fan pushes it into the CAC and then the radiator (except on stacked systems where the CAC is above the radiator).
wolfe10 09/03/15 01:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 220 Volt mishap

Yup, you can make a very serviceable 30 amp RV setup with the following: Assume proper gauge wire for the length of the run and 30 amp load. The one hot. Remove the other hot wire and label "neutral" at both ends (unless already white). Attach this wire to the neutral bus bar in the house main breaker box. Wire the green/ground wire to the ground buss in the house main breaker box and at the RV end.
wolfe10 09/02/15 03:18pm Tech Issues
RE: 220 Volt mishap

Hey, it's working. Give the kid a break. Sometimes you just have to let people make their own mistakes. Wiring an RV to 240V with no neutral is NOT working. It's barely lucky at best. We're trying to save him from damaging even more stuff. Totally agree!
wolfe10 09/02/15 01:38pm Tech Issues
RE: Fridge Boiler temperatures

Don, I would contact Paul Unmack, maker of the ARP. He will be able to give you good guidance on this.
wolfe10 09/01/15 04:22pm Tech Issues
RE: UPGRADE from LT225/75R16 D Rating

But, it could give him a Safety Reserve and not have the tires be the "weak link". Probably a good idea, as you never want the weak link to be something that can cause the damage a blowout can cause.
wolfe10 08/31/15 06:31pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 7-14 psi turbo boost when engine compression brake engaged

Guys, Attacking another's ideas or opinions is fine. Attacking THEM IS NOT. Please, let's all remember that and "play nice".
wolfe10 08/31/15 01:25pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Electrical Issue 30 vs 50 Amps

Old, so since 30 AMP power uses 1 leg anyway, does the plain adapter send power to both legs of the 50 AMP plug, sharing the 30 AMPS between the 2 50 AMP legs? Correct. The single hot on the 30 amp (male) end of the adapter connects to BOTH hots on the 50 amp (female) end. So both sides of your coach 120 VAC breaker box are supplied. But you are limited to 30 amps total instead of 100 amps total (2X 50).
wolfe10 08/31/15 12:36pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: F53 Drivability

And, this is not just Ford. It applies to all HD solid axle chassis, including OTR trucks.
wolfe10 08/31/15 06:06am Class A Motorhomes
RE: F53 Drivability

The way caster angle is adjusted (and properly adjusted) on a solid front axle is by inserting wedge-shaped shims between axle and chassis mount. Nothing strange about it. Lots of places sell caster shims for solid front axles: http://www.truckcomponentsonline.com/TRUCK-CASTER-SHIMS_c_316.html
wolfe10 08/30/15 03:51pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Roottop AC

Sounds like a bad capacitor (at least you hope so). With all power off, go up on the roof, remove the cover and then access the "electrical area". Check capacitors for swelling, discoloration or leakage. Be sure to discharge by shorting terminals before removing. Any HVAC store should have capacitors to match. Could it be the compressor-- yes, but check the cheap stuff first!
wolfe10 08/30/15 03:46pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: AMP

And to define a "washer" vs "dryer" outlet: A washer outlet and RV outlet will have: ONE hot, one neutral and one ground. A dryer outlet will have TWO hots, a ground and depending on age, a neutral. NOT, REPEAT NOT ACCEPTABLE FOR AN RV. IT WILL BURN OUT A LOT OF EQUIPMENT ON YOUR RV.
wolfe10 08/28/15 06:47pm Tech Issues
RE: AMP

Start by verifying that nothing else in the RV is on. 20 amps is plenty to run an RV A/C.
wolfe10 08/28/15 06:31pm Tech Issues
RE: How does the Jacobs Extarder work?

Normally the signal goes from dash switch to the Allison ECM and from it to the air cylinder. And, yes this is exactly how our 1993 Foretravel was wired (Cat 3116 and Allison MD3060). If so, when you turn on the exhaust brake, your left shift pad will go from "6" to whatever the preselect gear is for the exhaust brake. 2nd and 4th are common choices. Could it be wired without including the Allison-- sure. Then you have to use the down arrow to get the desired gear.
wolfe10 08/28/15 06:21am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 7-14 psi turbo boost when engine compression brake engaged

I would suggest that the correct word is that an exhaust brake RESTRICTS exhaust flow. They all have a limit on how much back pressure the engine manufacturer allows. An engine is a LARGE air compressor. Even 55 PSI of back pressure (one of the standard limits) does not completely cut off exhaust flow.
wolfe10 08/27/15 03:49pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 7-14 psi turbo boost when engine compression brake engaged

With an engine compression brake, there is a LOT of air flow through the exhaust side of the turbo. Remember, that is how an engine compression brake works-- it opens the exhaust valve as the piston approaches TDC on the compression stroke.
wolfe10 08/27/15 11:00am Class A Motorhomes
RE: How does the Jacobs Extarder work?

I agree with Ivylog. BUT, you do not want to confuse the braking provided by a transmission dowhshift with a downshift AND a properly functioning exhaust brake.
wolfe10 08/27/15 10:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: How does the Jacobs Extarder work?

OK, exhaust brakes are not all the same. The one on Wayne's coach is probably the most advanced-- a PacBrake PRXB. It generates the full spec back pressure at lower RPM than the earlier PacBrakes or other "single stage" exhaust brakes. And, yes, the Allison should automatically downshift to whatever "pre-select" gear is programmed for exhaust brake application. 2nd and 4th are the common choices, though as Wayne said it can be any gear you choose to have an Allison dealer program in. No perfect choice-- when coming to a stop, 2nd is a good choice. 5th gives the driver the most control in the mountains (there are some grades where exhaust brake and 5th gear give the right amount of braking HP and 4th or lower would give too much braking. I40 westbound into Albuquerque is a good example. You can descend the whole grade in 5th gear exhaust brake, but if a lower gear is used, you would be constantly turning off the brake and applying throttle to upshift, then back on exhaust brake..... Again personal choice. Now, to test the exhaust brake. Get up to 40 or so MPH. Turn on the exhaust brake and take your foot off the throttle. Note what gear the transmission downshifts to. Use the down arrow to lock the transmission in that gear. Now toggle the exhaust brake on and off. Since the transmission is now a "constant", it will tell you how much additional braking HP your exhaust brake itself generates. Particularly if not used frequently, they can rust up to where the butterfly valve does not close completely. Also, any exhaust leak upstream of the exhaust brake will materially diminish its performance. Look for signs of black soot: head to exhaust manifold, manifold itself, manifold to turbo and turbo to exhaust brake. And, yes some are mounted further "down stream" of the turbo. I know on the PacBrakes, they have a test port so you can put a gauge on it to verify back pressure. I do not know if the Jacobs has one. Worth a look.
wolfe10 08/27/15 06:43am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Onan Marquis 6500 LP Starts but no power

Only test at the ATS if you are safe working around 120VAC (30 amp) and 240 VAC (50 amp)! Remove lid. There will be two sets of wires coming in-- one from shore power and one from generator. With everything off/disconnected, verify that all wires are clean and tight. Start generator and check between black wire (hot) and white wire (neutral) and green wire (ground). Should read 120 VAC. If 50 amp, check between red and white and red and green as well. It also should read 120 VAC. If you do not have 120 VAC at the ATS with generator running, check the connection where the generator output is wired to the coach wiring.
wolfe10 08/25/15 06:18am Tech Issues
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