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 > Your search for posts made by 'wolfe10' found 940 matches.

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RE: DP started overheating after a repair

Agree with the OP, first check is to verify that the fan is the correct one-- number of blades, pitch (i.e. CFM) AND that it was installed to PUSH air through the CAC and radiator. Have seen them installed backwards! My next step, assuming the thermostat is OE and therefore 14-15 years old, would be to replace the thermostat.
wolfe10 07/05/15 07:00am Class A Motorhomes
RE: What mountain grade .....

Would be interested in a link to a chassis owners manual that states "towing capacity WITHOUT brakes on the toad/dolly". Most say just the opposite, that you have to have brakes on the toad/dolly.
wolfe10 07/04/15 09:00am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Mexico RV tourist....

Easily 50%. It's ashame that the the Mexican rv parks don't have an association to gather data and promote the industry. Totally agree.
wolfe10 07/02/15 06:23pm RVing in Mexico and South America
RE: Atwood Helium Fridge not working on Gas, NO Check Light

If the gas valve on the refrigerator is open and you have propane flow, but no spark, use a BBQ lighter to light it. Keep the lighter on until the thermocouple is activated/keeps the gas on. As stated, if there is a flame, it IS the flame-- there is no pilot light.
wolfe10 06/30/15 05:30am Tech Issues
RE: Looking for a DP from PPL

Agree with Don-- start narrowing down your likes/dislikes. Then do a nationwide search for those on your short list. At least that is how we have bought each coach we have owned. Some ended up near home, others across the country. And, do not hesitate to ask specific questions here or on other forums to help narrow down the choices.
wolfe10 06/29/15 10:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Looking for a DP from PPL

Yes, I guess in some cases prices at a consignment lot are higher than FSBO. But in many many cases, the consignment lot gives sellers a "reality check" on what their coach is worth. The highest prices for a given coach, given condition are FSBO's where either they put little down and have an over-inflated payoff or they think just because it is theirs that it is worth a lot. Find the same thing on boats. And, as with any consignment lots, you will find some jewels and some rough ones, as condition reflects how they were cared for, NOT how good a dealer's detail lot is. Gee, I wonder if that gives one a better idea of how the coach was cared for-- if rough when put up for sale, wonder how it was treated when the were using it.
wolfe10 06/29/15 10:03am Class A Motorhomes
RE: "Top-of-The-Line" A/C Replacement (Only the best)

Doug, What are your thoughts on the Atwood Air Command A/C's?
wolfe10 06/28/15 07:52am Tech Issues
RE: Where is run capacitor for my roof top AC

Only accessed from the roof (shroud removed).
wolfe10 06/28/15 07:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dragging up driveway

Casters can do a lot of damage to your coach. The frame is not meant to support a lot of the coach's weight at the end of the frame rail (or something bolted or welded to it). My first though would be to use boards over the low spot so that you do not drag. Easier and less expensive than air bags or casters.
wolfe10 06/28/15 06:56am Class A Motorhomes
RE: check engine light and loss of brake pedal

We are probably going to need more information to give you good advice: Assume your brakes are hydraulic over hydraulic 4 wheel disk brakes-- please confirm. Assume that this problem only began after you worked on the batteries-- please confirm. If so, I would sure go over all the connections, including some of the smaller-gauge ones. Does the engine quit (i.e. tach goes to zero) when this happens or does it just have reduced power? The brake problem is a bit puzzling (assuming it is the system I mention). Even if the engine quits, you have an electric back up on the master cylinder to provide boost were the engine to stop. This is boost only-- totally separate from the brake hydraulics. The fact that you have to pump the brakes suggests that the brake (vs boost) portion of the system has a problem. Problem could be bad master cylinder or air in the system. Can't see how lack of boost would give you a soft pedal where you have to pump to firm up.
wolfe10 06/28/15 06:32am Tech Issues
RE: Proper charge/use cycle

Display #1 (Xantrex) is more accurate. What you can tell from the display in the photo: Batteries are deeply discharged-- charge rate is 75 amps. So, it is in bulk mode. Assuming it is properly programmed with voltage at only 13.5 instead of 14 or slightly more(proper voltage in bulk mode), that 75 amps is not enough to get voltage to full bulk setting. What batteries do you have (size in amp-hrs and technology) and have you programmed your inverter/charger (using that remove panel)?
wolfe10 06/27/15 11:59am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Convert to 50 amp

Sounds like you have done a good job with the research. It would also puzzle me to have the microwave and A/C on the same breaker. What amp is it??? There are other, less costly "work arounds", but I would start by putting your two heaviest loads on separate breakers. Worse case (zero $$) would be to put the roof A/C to fan while the microwave is on. Lots of options.
wolfe10 06/26/15 08:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Steep grades

Answering "can I safely drive this road" is always a tough question. It depends on TWO things: 1. The equipment-- assuming it is properly maintained, likely not a problem. 2. AND MORE IMPORTANT-- the driver. Mountain driving in a heavy vehicle is very different than in a car. It does have a learning curve to it and the speed with which it is learned depends to a large extent on how well you "feel" the machinery. Knowing what gear and use of engine brake by looking at a grade is a LEARNED thing. Knowing when you have pulled a long steep grade and KNOW that you will need to gear down to avoid overheating is a LEARNED thing. We have all gone through the learning curve (unless we only drive flat lands), but it is best to start out on the "bunny slope", not the black slope.
wolfe10 06/26/15 01:52pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Safe but scenic route

Absolutely, done 101 SF to Washington state several times.
wolfe10 06/26/15 01:36pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: After market air springs

Bud, That is pretty well balanced, with each axle loaded to just under 90% of capacity. Is this roughness more over the small bumps (like concrete expansion joints) or larger holes/big dips. If over the small ones as well as large ones, consider Koni FSD's They are not inexpensive, but offer both softer ride over the little bumps and better control over the large ones (two sets of valves).
wolfe10 06/26/15 06:12am Class A Motorhomes
RE: After market air springs

Please tell us what chassis you have. Have you set tire pressure based on your tire manufacturer's recommendation for your actual weight? Also, what is your chassis GVWR(should be on a sticker near the drivers area) vs actual weight. If you have axle weights, post those along with GAWR from the GVWR sticker.
wolfe10 06/25/15 01:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Alternator-inverter-fridge?

Unless your alternator has an external sense wire, you will want a SOLENOID-BASED isolator, not DIODE-BASED isolator. Said another way, unless you have an external sense wire, the .7 VDC loss in the diode-based isolator will not keep your batteries properly charged.
wolfe10 06/25/15 11:34am Tech Issues
RE: Head Light Upgrades ?

Buy two 40 amp regular automotive relays. Buy a spool of 10 gauge wire. Two fuse holders, wire terminals and fuses. Currently it is likely that power to your head lights goes through your light switch. You will use these wires to close/open the relays-- one for low beams, one for high beams. Locate the relays/cut the high/low wires in any convenient location. Supply power to the relay from any large gauge positive wire in the area-- plenty in either in the under dash or nose area of DP's or obliviously in front engine vehicles. Connect the fuse for each to that connection or even positive terminal of the battery if front engine. Then with the 10 gauge wire to the relays. Then if wires to the lights are currently small gauge, replace wires from the relays to the lights and lights to ground. It is amazing how much brighter a headlight is with 13.5+ VDC to it vs 11.8-12.2 that is so common with those long small gauge wire and drop in the head light switch.
wolfe10 06/25/15 09:04am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Head Light Upgrades ?

For under $20 you can rewire the high and low beams through relays. Very likely to up the voltage by 1.5-2 VDC. Makes a HUGE difference in light output. If you want the shopping list and "how to" and you are even slightly electrically competent, let us know.
wolfe10 06/24/15 04:32pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Intake manifold temperature creeping higher

Thanks Don. I have the engine brake. Intake manifold temperature remains about the same when EB engages. Larry So, Larry which do you have, an: EB= Exhaust Brake OR Engine Brake= Engine Compression Brake= Jake Brake
wolfe10 06/23/15 03:26pm Class A Motorhomes
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