I have a 32' sunnybrook trailer and am looking to rent a 3/4 ton truck to tow it. I live in the new York Metro area. Any ideas ?
I can't tell how long you want to rent, or for what purpose (short haul, out of state haul, etc.), but I think you may have a hard time finding something to meet your needs. Do you have your own brake controller, or does the rental unit need to have one? Do you have your own hitch with WD bars and sway control?
Again, depending on what you are trying to accomplish, you might be money and stress ahead to go to one or more camper dealers in your area and have them put you in touch with a delivery guy. These guys bring campers out from Indiana, etc. and return empty. They would be thrilled to get a paying load on the return leg or any portion thereof, I'd bet.
Finally, an ad on Craigslist might get you connected with someone with a truck sitting around doing nothing that wouldn't mind renting it out. You never know. Heavy equipment rental places sometimes place their own ads there, as well.
The answer to your question is:
"I don't know."
You'll need to check with your city code enforcement officer. If you don't have one, check with the county code enforcement. They'll be glad to answer your question without insulting you.
Being of Mennonite descent, it irritates me when I see manufacturers tout their products as "Amish built" as if this imbues their wares with some kind of high order quality.
First, the Mennonites (and later Amish offshoots) early established a reputation throughout Europe as industrious workers that were able to take land that didn't produce well and turning it into profitable enterprise. They also had a reputation for honest dealings with all people during a time when Catholics were burning Protestants and the Protestants were, in turn, burning the Mennonites. When they emigrated from Russia to the US and Canada their business sense and community cooperation once again enabled them to provide financial support to those who had stayed behind as well as provide support to fledgling communities in South America. It wasn't until World War II that their strict pacifist beliefs led to distrust on the part of the American government. The same problem they had generations before overseas.
Teenagers are allowed to live among the "English" for a time before confirmation and admission in the Church as full members. It is this group, and some that decide not to return to the fold, that you find employed in general construction and manufacturing industries. Keep in mind that these kids have no more than an 8th grade education, so are extremely limited in their career choices.
So yes, while the Amish (as a people, not a religion) have a well deserved reputation for honesty, hard work, and production of quality goods, the people, whose presence is being exploited in the manufacturing companies advertisements, are no different than any other undereducated, unskilled assembly line worker.
I'm stealthy as a cat:B.
Funny you should mention that. Last night my cat, while trying to be extra stealthy, fell off the bed and landed very hard on the wooden floor. :E I think he spent the rest of the night under the bed nursing his wounded pride. :W
Mine came with a slide lock which includes a long yellow streamer that says "remove before extending slide". During the PDI, the dealer advised me not to use it because it "really isn't necessary".
Since the camper is covered and the slide is leeward, I left the lock off during winter storage, but it is always in place during transit.
I have a Reese dual cam sway control/weight distribution set up. The manual specifies grease on the ball and the trunnions (top and bottom); the manufacturer specifies "a couple drops of lubricant on the trunnions every day while towing". If the friction surfaces of the weight distribution bars against the sway control bars is too annoying, they suggest a bit of petroleum jelly, but caution that too much will defeat the sway control function.
I believe the tube of lubricant you have is approved not only because of its lubricity, but because it also allows the ball and hitch to maintain electrical conductivity (ground).
It is my understanding that an RV specific covers, such as made by Adco, will not harm the camper. Mine hasn't suffered any abrasions, and we've had some pretty high winds already this winter. Tarps, on the other hand, will definitely damage your camper.
However, if you are looking for something with a waterproof material for the roof, I don't think any of the RV covers do that. I know mine allows rain to pass through (albeit slowly), then it dries very quickly.
Our latest snowfall demonstrated that the cover also prevents snow from being driven into the A/C housing, etc.
I also am confident that my TT is being protected from UV exposure, bird droppings, and leaves.
Indoor storage is obviously the best way to go, but I think the cover is much better than a tarp.
We stored our old TT at an outdoor facility in another state, and had it delivered to the camping park whenever we wanted to use it. It seemed like every time it was delivered, something was damaged on the outside. A gouge here, a scrape there. Dirt everywhere. Even grass from mowing while wet stuck to the skin of the camper. We keep our new one here at home now. Nobody else is allowed near it.
I know that's not an option for you, but, you might want to consider a high quality Adco (or similar) cover for your unit. Or, if you are a long-term renter, perhaps the property owner will let you install a metal RV port to park your camper under. This would go a long ways to helping preserve your roof and all the caulking.
don't know about your part of the country but the meth heads steal them as they use it in the manufacture of meth. friends of mine had his stolen and my friends who are wheat farmers post guards at night since they have had propane and fertilizer stolen
Meth manufacturing methods have changed significantly. They no longer use propane cylinders in the manufacture. In fact, all they use these days is a single 2 liter soda bottle.
My setup comes from Camping World and the shank is about 13.5 inches long. My chains reach my truck fine. The new setup as with the old will be an 8' cord with molded plug. I pretty much left it alone the way they had it. It was wrapped around my electric tongue jack 2 times then the rest of the length went towards the truck. Just real weird but I knew it was my fault.
You should have seen the almost 90* I was at in the Taco Bell parking lot! Man am I good!
So standard is 13.5 inches, and I don't want to go any shorter than that.
Thanks for the information. :)
I just checked my new parts catalog and they are not listed any more. the closest thing i could come up with is a set of BAL lock arm stabilizing bars. you need two boxes for a TT and 3 for a 5th wheel, $105 per box
That depends on how many stabs you intend to mount them on. One box comes with two bars. This is enough to do one stabilizer. Some people buy two sets for their TT with scissor jacks and mount one rear and one front. Some (like me) mount them both on the rear. Others mount them on all four.
When I get around to replacing the stock scissor jacks on mine with the newer cross frame stabilizers, I may be able to only use one lock arm with each jack.
My old 1990 Gulfstream TT came with these for stabilizers:
Not very convenient, so I went to a pick-n-pull junkyard and bought four scissor jacks for $25.00 (total, not each). I drilled a couple holes through the pad on top and bolted them to the four corners of the camper. Worked a treat for 20 years.
When stabilizing your camper, the first thing you want to do is level it left to right. This is usually accomplished by stacking planks on the low side and pulling the camper up onto them. For my new TT I use these levelers from Anderson Hitches:
Quite a bit more expensive than wood planks, but much easier to use and store. I'm also a clean nut, so I have replaced just about all my wood stuff with plastic.
Anyway, once you have it leveled left to right, you'll need to chock the wheels on both sides. My Anderson levelers are also chocks, so that takes care of one side. I use the yellow plastic chocks you can get at Wal Mart for around 5 bucks each on the other side. Harbor Freight has some really good rubber chocks for around 9 bucks, but they are pretty heavy, so I don't use them.
Once the camper is leveled and chocked, then you disconnect from the hitch. Using the tongue jack, level your camper front to rear.
While all this leveling is important for your comfort, it is most important for your refrigerator. It needs to be as level as you can get it to operate properly. Some people go so far as to put a bull's eye level in the bottom of the fridge to verify it is properly leveled. I trust the levels I have installed on the outside.
So, after you're leveled, chocked, unhitched, and leveled, go ahead and set your stabilizers. You don't want them to be extended too far because they get wobbly, so stack some wood or plastic "lego blocks" under them. Extend them just until they make firm contact with the ground. If you see the frame flex, you've gone too far and can weaken things like the door frame, causing it to go out of square.
Other optional items used to help lock the camper down and reduce movement inside are things like 'X' chocks between the tires.
I happen to have BAL lock arms on my rear stabilizers. These really stiffen things up.
As noted in another post, it can't be emphasized enough, the importance of getting up on the roof and sealing everything. If your TT has a built in ladder, the roof is probably a walk on roof. If not, be sure to get a sheet of plywood to spread your weight around while you work up there. Also, note what kind of roof you have. I may be fiberglass, aluminum, or rubber. If it's rubber, be careful not to cut or tear it. If you do damage it, Eternabond tape is the best thing to use to repair it.
Go around anything that penetrates the roof and check for hardened or dried up caulk. When these campers were made, Eternabond wasn't around. Everything on my new camper came from the manufacturer sealed with Eternabond. It is the berries. I'd remove all the old sealants and Eternabond every seam you can find up there, including the roof edges. The tape comes in various widths and will seal up just about anything. It is considered a permanent seal once applied.
Finally, the easiest way to avoid posting oversized photos is to use an online repository such as photobucket.com . By linking to the photos, they can be any size and the forum software will resize the photo for you. No need to specify size or edit your photos.
The systems on these campers require constant attention or they will suddenly quit working at the most inopportune time. Be sure you repack and inspect all your wheel bearings. Also, check your brakes to ensure they are properly adjusted and that they function properly (to include the break-away cable). You'll want to remove your window frames, remove the old sealant, and replace with fresh butyl rubber. This comes in a roll form that is very easy to apply. It's not so easy to remove the old stuff. But you want to make sure water does not get inside your camper. It will do terrible damage to ceiling, walls, and most of all, the floor.
Good luck, and be sure to post lots of pics as you revive your camper.
I see you have already ordered the molded plug with cable. For sure the way to go.
But I wanted to ask about your hitch. What kind is it, and how long is it?
I have a Reese that is 17.5 inches long (not including the hitch head). It is so long that the safety chains on my new camper wouldn't reach the truck! As near as I can tell, a standard shank is more like 13.5 inches, and I have been planning to take mine to a machine shop to get it shortened.
However, I have been concerned about the very problem you ran into, and have considered trying to compromise by only cutting off 2 inches instead of 4.
Is your hitch shank shorter than 13.5 inches?
To answer the other part of your question - yes, you can plug into a regular household outlet for power (20A or 15A service) with an adapter. However, you probably won't be able to run the air conditioner, and (as you found out) you can't plug into a GFCI outlet.
Before plugging into an outlet, even one in your home, I strongly recommend using a tester.
Rigging the furnace fan could be done, basically would need to add a 12V SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) relay in between the fan motor and the control board. The relay basically selects between the control board or direct 12V to the fan motor. Then a simple toggle switch can be used to turn the relay on for bypass.
Completely unnecessary if your thermostat has a 'fan only' position.
LT proponents like to point out the higher testing standards applied to those tires, and rightfully so. No ST tires are tested in the same way. What would be the point in testing tires for conditions they are not intended for?
By the same token, there is no test data to indicate LT tires make good trailer tires. They aren't designed for it, therefor are not tested for it.
The majority of all reported tire failures are attributed to under-inflation by all official studies.
Another truth is that trailer manufacturers outfit their units with tires that could be characterized as "under-rated". One point that seems to be universally agreed on is that if you have load range 'C' tires, you should move to load range 'D' tires. Also, when you get new tires, ensure the valve stems are steel.
A Tire Pressure Monitoring System is also a wise investment. Not only does it allow you to continuously monitor air pressure, with alarms for under and over inflation, it also monitors the tire temperatures. IMO a much more relevant indicator of tire condition.