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 > Your search for 'Megawatt' found 127 matches.

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RE: Half Baked Survey / Battery Management Panel Meters

Magnum remote (ME-ARC 50) connected to the Magnum inverter/ charger. Solar- Magnum PT100 charge controller connected to the inverter/ charger. Scrolling through the menus. DC Meters DC Volts shows voltage from the battery bank connected to the inverter. DC Amps meter shows current going in or out of the battery. AC Meters AC voltage output either inverting or passing through from grid/ generator. Load Amps meter displays the total AC current delivered to the loads on the inverter’s AC output terminals. A positive (+) Load Amps value indicates power is being pulled from the inverter to run an AC load—either using the batteries in Inverter mode, or from the AC input source in Standby mode. Input Amps meter displays the total AC amps being used by the inverter for charging and for any load connected to the output of the inverter. Inv/Chg Amps menu displays the inverter or charger amps and is shown as an AC value. A negative (–) amps reading indicates the inverter is powering the inverter loads, and the batteries are discharging (inverter amps). A positive (+) amps reading indicates the inverter is using the AC input source to charge the batteries (charger amps). PT charge contoller menu Charging status -Bulk Charging, Float Charging, Sleeping Faults (if present) Power status Relay status Battery amps Power to Batteries- Now: This display shows the power out of the PT controller occurring now (in Watts). Life: This display shows the total power out of the controller since it was installed (shown in Megawatt-hours or MWh). PT Ground faults PT Data (past 255 days)- KWH Harvest total, Max PV, Max battery volts, Min battery volts, On/Work time, Max power. PT Faults History LiFePo4 Battery Management System connected to a 7" display showsz live time readings. 1st screen- pack voltage, pack current (amps being used or charging), pack capacity (state of charge in percentage), Min/Max Cell Voltage, Alarms and Warnings. 2nd screen- shows individual cell voltage & individual cell temps,5 batteries x 4 cells = 20 cells
Itinerant1 01/08/18 12:56pm Tech Issues
RE: Inverter AGM questions

Any time there exists a possibility of over amping the wire conductor or damaging the generating supply voltage, fuses should be used. Inside the Megawatt and Meanwell power supplies for instance there are circuit board 10-amp AC fuses. When an alternator shorts to ground, voltage at the field decreases so rapidly, the alternator cannot over-amp itself to death. This can be shown on a test bench where over-loading the alternator will quickly bring amperage potential down from say 130 amps to 20. A seven gauge power wire would therefore be intrinsically protected against over amperage. When power to the rotor field is slumped output is slumped. Therefore protection for this line is because the battery can cause wire overamperage not the alternator.
MEXICOWANDERER 01/05/18 06:03am Tech Issues
RE: Amish Cooling Unit

Old technology isn't necessarily bad technology. If it works, it works. More efficient (and expensive) electric compressor units are great if you can afford them and you have the electricity to run them. If you need to run on propane then the absorbtion fridge is the way to go. I rebuilt my fridge with an Amish cooling unit and it's been great. About half of my camping is without hookups so I need the ability to run the fridge off of propane (I don't have a multi-megawatt battery bank and solar system).
turbojimmy 12/25/17 06:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Your opinion of Battery Desulfators

Mex made a mistake. Mex was thinking Meanwell but his fingers insisted on Megawatt. Many thank you's Landyacht because that was a BIG blunder. Having a device that requires multiple turns makes it a lot tougher to jar or disturb the pot enough to cause unintentional unperceived adjustment error. Meanwhile back at the ranch Mex promises not to be multitasking six errands when addressing a tech issue. Such an error is damned near unforgivable -- snort.
MEXICOWANDERER 12/23/17 12:50am Tech Issues
RE: Your opinion of Battery Desulfators

To think these gizmos work is like believing children can be sent to school where a teacher can impart values, honesty, social graces, as well as an education. The education system is a babysitter -- put the little monster on the bus... Not Going To Happen... I guess for the hundredth time I shall repeat this: The lead acid battery is a chemical laboratory in which electricity is a curious by-product. Guesswork -- the responsibility of proper battery management is totally up to the individual. There is no "automatic device" in battery management. There are helpful aids. One has to remember the (then) not inexpensive VX-66 miracle engine renewal kits sold in magazine ads... "Simply drop the pellets into the gas tank and pour the liquid into the crankcase and while you drive the cylinder walls and bearings will be plated with a smooth sealing renewal that will dramatically improve power and performance" The public bought into this by the hundreds of thousands. They believed in the process whole heartedly. If challenged they would become defensive, often aggressive, ridiculing the idea that their miracle was not real. A person cannot see, hear, or smell electricity. It takes instrumentation. For many people that first step alone is too much to bear -- for lack of education, interest, or even showing disdain, they will revert to opinion, derived conclusions, and seek fellow travelers in the process. With a storage battery, such warping of reality is easy to do -- no two environments are the same, like the blind men describing the elephant, they tout their opinions with enthusiasm. There is only one single solitary way to properly manage a flooded lead acid battery -- when in doubt examine battery chemistry. Determine what's actually going on inside the cell. By measuring battery acid density -- with an instrument. Measuring acid density will provide an anchor point. Like the necessity of re-zero'ing an amp hour meter, battery gravity will zero out guesswork and will establish "way-points" to ease the learning of battery characteristics. Once a battery has had a chance to make equal the density of acid in all cells, then instrumentation can be used to manage the battery until another "zero-reset" becomes necessary. By PICKING ON the habitual weak sister, the cell that sulfates first, a hydrometer needs to be used only once. If that cell is up and running properly the remaining cells will also be operating OK. And again (how can I make this even clearer?) the dipping of the weak sister cell only needs to be done when doubt exists about battery performance. Like recovery from a discharge that has taken the battery to "8 volts" The only sane and sure way to correct a sulfated battery cell is to follow the regimen that has been used for the last 100+ years. Physics has not changed -- attitudes have. Find out the capacity of six cells. It can be one or two batteries (working with three cells is more difficult due to lack of a means to charge the three cells) The formula is simple. Achieving the formula is less simple but it is easier than it appears on the surface... A constant current, current meaning amperage of close to 5% of the rating of total amp hours (the 20 amp hour rate) is impressed on the battery following a regular charge to get the battery as full as possible. Constant current means exactly that. Let's use a badly sulfated 100 amp hour battery as an example. 5% of 100 is of course 5.0 So five amperes is the magic number. Vary from this formula is then the results will be like guessing at how to bake a cake... 350 degrees for 25 minutes does not mean 1,750 degrees for 5 minutes nor Five hours at 70 degrees. A battery charging device is needed that can attain 16.0 volts. Sixteen volts at however many amps is called for in the 5% formula. And amperage must remain constant. No starting at 40 amps dwindling to 2 amps at 14.9 volts. This means a GENUINE battery charger must be used. Like with many chemical processes, some cheating is permitted. A Megawatt or Meanwell power supply can be used. To throttle current to a reasonable "near five amps" a 12 volt light bulb can be connected inline with the battery charger's positive charge wire. This is a connection done in "series". Positive wire in, positive wire out. With the Megawatt it cannot reach 16.0 volts, so the adjustment "knob" must be turned up to maximum -- around 15.6 volts. It's cheating but the reality cops will permit a little deviance. With a 15 series Meanwell the adjustment pot has to be set with a meter to 16.0 volts. The 15 series can exceed 16 volts and a tiny bit higher than 16 is OK but is limited to one or two tenths of a volt. Charge the battery as full as it can get with your converter, then disconnect the battery ground cable. Pop the cell caps off and note all cells should not have the plates exposed to air. Connect the Meanwell or Megawatt using the 12-volt lamp in series with the positive charging cable. A FIFTY WATT 12-volt light bulb is close enough for 6 cell RV batteries. A HUNDRED WATT 12-volt bulb is close enough for a pair of golf car batteries connected in series to make a 6-cell 12 volt circuit. Power up the Mega-Meanwell. Note the electrolyte in all cells. You will be monitoring the presence of bubbling. If it takes one hour or ten, one of two things must happen... 1. Rechecking the weak cell with the hydrometer indicates it is fully charged. 2. 16.0 volts is reached. Either way the charging is to be stopped. Allow the batteries to cool down to room temperature. The electrolyte will CONTINUE to equalize for almost an hour while the batteries are cooling down. Then hydrometer check all cells. Those that have not reverted to original density are going to be a persistent problem -- live with it or buy new batteries. This is the age old BATTERY COUNCIL INTERNATIONAL equalization formula and it was used on hundred ton battery banks on submarines in World War II. Physics does not change. Nor does chemistry. HOW TO RADICALLY DELAY THE ONSET OF SULFATION Once per 20 cycles of 50% discharge OR 3 months of maintenance by a smart charger or converter... TOP CHARGE THE BATTERY Set the Meanwell or Megawatt to 15.0 volts and allow it to charge for a half hour with a single 6-cell battery, or one hour with golf car batteries. No current throttling light bulb need be employed for Top Charging. If you follow the top charging regimen it will eliminate the need for about 95% of the full, elaborate equalization charges needed. AND MIND YOU Power Post Princess, lightly used batteries may NEVER need to be equalized. But their lifespan will be shorter than it could be. Trying to compare experiences gathered between a heavy battery user (boondocker) and a weekend warrior or a few weeks per year camper, both having permanent power after their trip is like... Hearing someone belittle and argue with a chef "when a package of Twinkies is so easy to tear open" is all too common and it is frustrating. The remnants of "slip the tablets into the tank and pour the syrup into the crankcase" mentality.
MEXICOWANDERER 12/20/17 12:58pm Tech Issues
Plug In Receptacle Timer

This otter make hooking up a Meanwell or Megawatt easier. Plug this into an outlet Plug the Meanwell or Megawatt into this timer Select a time button, choose 1 hour 2, 4, 8...whatever... Walk off Remember about it next Tuesday. No harm no foul... https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61t%2B%2BdgcwuL._SL1280_.jpg height=500 width=500 AMAZON PRIME! Woods Import Woods Import - Digital Countdown Timer 4.3 out of 5 stars 273 customer reviews 28 answered questions Price: $10.49
MEXICOWANDERER 12/19/17 07:43pm Tech Issues
RE: Replacing my Converter/Charger - Help

Amplitude + time An extreme example. Batteries that are discharged to 30% of capacity then put on continuous power at 13.6 volts for an unlimited time, they will recover slowly and over a period of perhaps 12 recoveries using this formula, over 8-10 months time, become sulfated. That's what they make the Megawatt and dial timers for. To chop the idiotic manufacturer's anti-lawsuit, anti-battery psychosis off at the roots. Even the 29 amp 350 watt unit would work. But some people seem to be afraid of setting up a Megawatt or Meanwell. You can pinstripe a donkey but you ain'g gonna have a zebra.
MEXICOWANDERER 12/19/17 07:16pm Tech Issues
RE: Wfco replaced today. Will get data in a few weeks..

It's tough to remain objective but try and get a feel if the batteries now seem to have more capacity when camping. You would be shocked to learn how many people are using "fully charged" batteries that have sixty to seventy percent of their original capacity. TOP CHARGING Get an inline AC power cord timer at the hardware store. When you return from camping, and the SMART charge system lies and shuts off, tickle the batteries with the 10-amp setting. You're at what, 3-1/2 amps now? See what the charger shows right after your converter flings a whopper reading at you. How many amps does the little charger say? This is a mini-BS detector. If the batteries need say an hour or so to bring them up, as the Beatles, sang, Let It Be. The object is to squeeze every nickel so tight the buffalo farts. It's not only cheapskate, it's incredibly GREEN. Well maintained good quality batteries last an incredibly long time -- with a minimum of bother. This topping off, will reduce equalization by 90%. You may never need to equalize again. LOL so what are you saying? I need layman's terms... No offense but sometimes your posts, although funny, seem written in code I do not understand... ha ha.. 1. come home from camping. when converter shuts down to 13.6 and barely putting in 1 amp, SG may be low. so i'm being lied to... 2. Im at 3.5 amps yes more or less. 3. Not sure where the timer fits in... 4. When and what # will the converter throw so called whopper reading at me? Is the whopper reading the done charging scenario when actually I may need more? Took charger off... SG still 1275... maybe slightly higher.. I hit CW button for last time now... Now I am going to let the converter do its thing over the winter. I will not be doing anything till sunday. As im going to doctor now, and taking a drive tomorrow to see the tree in NYC... Spend the day there.. Be back sunday... Although I may have time later to read some posts... Go camping. Come back, disconnect main ground from camper so all electric is isolated from recharging and set your solar panel voltage for 14.8V. Let charge in the sun until Specific Gravity reaches 1.275. Check after 2 days. If your S.G. isn't 1.275, disconnect the solar panel and put your Sears recharger on it in 10 amp mode. Try 2 hours, and see if you drop down to 3.5 amps charging rate at end of 2 hours. Following day, read the specific gravity. Is it 1.275? Good! Store battery disconnected for 3 or 4 months. If it's not 1.275.... hit it again with good old Sear battery recharger for a couple more hours. Repeat until you see 1.275 SG and then store the battery. My old Sears Manual battery recharger does 6 amps and will do up to 17.0V. Many the time it has cleaned up my very PIA Trojan T-1275 12V floor machine industrial battery with very stubborn 6% antimony plates, to the full 1.275 SG. This is a very stubborn to fully recharge battery, but done once every 7 to 10 days camping, it gets fully capacity back again. Store a battery only when fully top charged. A good healthy battery should top charge with 14.8v if not sulfated. Short of a manual charger... other methods include supervised recharging with a Power supply unit capable of 30 -40 amps and adjustable voltage input, something like the Mega Watt or MeanWell units, while dry camping on a gas powered generator like a EU2000i by Honda. Do a search here on MegaWatt or Meanwell PSU's for dry camping recharging.
NinerBikes 12/08/17 11:47pm Tech Issues
RE: WFCO Converter

Try to relocate that fan to nearest the most sensitive components - the ones you have to replace because the originals are junk - the two large capacitors. It cannot be done, so a secondary relay fan is necessary. The heatsink is a weightsink, a sinker. A proper exruded heatsink would cut ONE POUND off the weight and cool better WAY better. Heat sinking is about area radiation not bulk weight. I do not know what other power supplies use for capacitor grades but I'll say this. By going to ESR Panasonic 200vdc 680 ohm electrolytics, temperature of the capacitors dropped several degrees as compared to brand new originals in a Megawatt. A full scan of a "working" WFCO gave me acid reflux. Stupid is as stupid does. Reminds me to check about black hard anodizing down here - the cheater's way to gain 30% more radiant capacity. Hello black Megawatts and Meanwells.
MEXICOWANDERER 12/01/17 04:46pm Tech Issues
RE: Choice of converter for AGM batteries

Repetitive thankfully is not a do or die expression. It will not hurt the Lifeline one bit to do fast and dirty (voltage strictly limited) charges, for say a week then with near religious fervor do a top-up charge just as Concorde suggests, at 14.4 volts until amperage drops to one half ampere for each 100 ampere hour battery. Then the one half ampere charge rate is reached using 14.4 volts, then the charge rate can be defaulted to temperature corrected float voltage. At 50% SOC my Lifeline Deep Throats in excess of 100 amps and all without going near the max absorbsion limit of 14.4 volts. Even a tiny adjustable manual charger can help do the 14.4 volts finish charge rate. Look! There Goes One Now... https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/CxAAAOSwzsFaHDt6/s-l1600.jpg height=350 width=350 https://www.ebay.com/itm/33-Amp-13-8-Volt-DC-Filtered-Power-Supply-12V-Adjustable-Voltage-MegaWatt-01/152804919927?epid=0&hash=item2393e20a77:g:CxAAAOSwzsFaHDt6 To the left of the terminal strip is a vertical green LED. See it? Just to the right is a small square plastic block. Facing straight down is a cross screwdriver slot cap. That's the adjustment. You'd only need to do this once. Once a power cord has been attacked... https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/47gAAOSwPDBZ~1wX/s-l1600.jpg height=500 width=500 https://www.ebay.com/itm/QUALITY-BesMelody-2-Pack-Power-Cord-with-on-off-Button-Switch-Replacemen-6-Feet/302515535753?epid=2130473608&hash=item466f54bf89:g:47gAAOSwPDBZ~1wX switch the critter on and set voltage to 14.4 Then connect battery + and - to battery terminals. Turn power supply back on. Voltage will rise to near 14.4 volts with a NEAR FULL Lifeline. Tweak the little pot to get voltage in the 14.4 range. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is a simple fix for the AGM Finish Amperage Blues, and the fix is excellent. Get the batteries reasonably full then switch this little critter on. Try to remember to switch it off within a few days. :) I'm not joking. A precised timed shutdown is not needed at all. Shut the power supply off and let your new temp regulated converter float the batteries. This will maintain the Lifeline at the ability to hold and dispense every last ampere of its capacity. If you fail to observe the fully charged before float rule, then you can expect the battery capacity to degrade to 80% or less. It cannot be charger fuller than 80%. Several forum members have done this with the Megawatt. Because you would be using it during that last 8% or so of battery fill there isn't any danger at all of harming the Megawatt. It can charge your batteries from scratch but its amp capacity is puny. Batteries need a full charge at 4:00PM? Start the Megawatt set at 14.4 volts (one time setting), go out to dinner, return, forget about the power supply running, wake up the next morning, run out to the batteries find them perfectly charged and one bored power supply. How much easier can it get? Concentrate on getting a temperature compensated converter for high amperage and for correct float voltage. I have six? Seven? Megawatts sitting around. They keep batteries healthy and my wallet where it belongs.
MEXICOWANDERER 11/29/17 05:09pm Tech Issues
RE: I want one!

Let's assume 500 HP. 1 HP =746 watts, 500x 746= 373,000 watts. At 1000v that's about 373 amps. You'd certainly have to run some pretty high voltage to keep the cable size down. Diesel/electric locomotives do it. Now, that's PEAK performance, so I suppose it would be less than that most of the time. They are saying 2 kwhr per mile, or about 150 HP at cruise on flat ground at 60 mph, which is about right with good aerodynamics. That means the 500 mile range semi has a 1000 kwhr battery. Thats right 1 megawatt hour! Thats ten model S batteries. Model S batteries are 1200 lbs, so your looking at at least a 10,000 lbs battery. Tesla says their current battery cost is under $190 per kwhr, so at least $180,000 cost for the battery. Their not yet deployed megacharger can charge 400 miles in 30 minutes, that means its 1600 kw, imagine a station of 10 of them pulling 16 megawatts, like the power draw of a small city! You could charge it in 80 hours at full blast on a 50 amp campground service, they probably wouldn't like that.
jharrell 11/22/17 07:35am Tech Issues
RE: RE: Converter problem solution

Aside from vendor performance... One of the great differences between made in China and made in the USA electrical and electronics is that products made in the USA get tested before they are wrapped in cellophane. Even John Marles, of Megawatt who uses far east parts in his products, but circuit boards made in Texas, tests his products before shipping. So does Meanwell, from Taiwan. I mention this, not to criticize but to try and educate. I know of no company that sells converter products that have been operationally tested before shipping. Big companies use circuit testing that probe individual switching and control circuits. Be prepared to be the "Finished Product Guinea Pig". It is the hood ornament of our times and we have to live with it. But live with it as wisely as possible. The whole RV is like that. They don't want to interrupt the line at the factory even if they find an "issue", so they find it is cheaper to send the Rvs out to the dealers and then solve any issues later under warranty. This keeps the line rolling, and some folks might not even notice the issue, so no warranty claims from them. The 5er wee got brand new had a couple of foggy double pane windows, so the dealer tried to get replacements from the RV factory for us. Turned out the factory was behind in getting windows from their window vendor, so any new windows went straight into new trailers on the line, so we couldn't get any. Eventually after much pushing and shoving, our dealer managed to get the windows for us under warranty. It is all about the production line and don't ever slow it down.
BFL13 11/18/17 07:13pm Tech Issues
RE: RE: Converter problem solution

Aside from vendor performance... One of the great differences between made in China and made in the USA electrical and electronics is that products made in the USA get tested before they are wrapped in cellophane. Even John Marles, of Megawatt who uses far east parts in his products, but circuit boards made in Texas, tests his products before shipping. So does Meanwell, from Taiwan. I mention this, not to criticize but to try and educate. I know of no company that sells converter products that have been operationally tested before shipping. Big companies use circuit testing that probe individual switching and control circuits. Be prepared to be the "Finished Product Guinea Pig". It is the hood ornament of our times and we have to live with it. But live with it as wisely as possible.
MEXICOWANDERER 11/18/17 09:25am Tech Issues
RE: Inverter AGM questions

It is but it is not black and white. 90% charges for a week is pushing things. It would be proportionally worse of course at 50% state of charge. I would get a 10 amp portable solar panel and cook the batteries after generator shutdown. A morning charge then 5 hours of sun may produce 40 surplus amp hours in a larger say 400 amp hour bank - during that last 10%. Yes, decreasing the missing ampere hours from 90% SOC to 95% SOC does make a difference. A Harbor Freight 2 cycle generator and 29 amp Megawatt would also work great depending on the noise. Let the little generator run until it runs out of fuel @ 14.4 volts setting on the Megawatt. Absolute Scrooge fuel use. And no attention to anything - put the generator and Megawatt away after it plays possum. I institute "light use days". Charge then shut off all loads and let the panels top things off. Doesn't mean the refrigerator, but lights and other accessories are neutered.
MEXICOWANDERER 11/08/17 08:16pm Tech Issues
RE: New Generator in the mix

Everyone here is correct to some degree. There is nothing wrong with any number of other units but realize that when you do buy a cheaper unit you are getting a cheaper unit. You can compare manufacturer specs all day long but the difference comes in when you put the maximum test to each generator. If you run them maxed out or keep overloading them my money is on a Honda or Yammie. I accidentally plugged a propane frig 120 v into a 400 Aims inverter and instantly blew it's guts out. It didn't pop a fuse, it died. I have overloaded my Xantrex 1000 and 2000 and just reset and carry on. I ran a Megawatt power supply at the high end of it's range and it started smoking yet I can run a Meanwell just as hard and it keeps on pumping it's heart out. I would buy a 3400 Champion or a Ryobi or a Predator BUT I would operate at the lower side of it's ability. If I wanted to size a genny to run at the top end of it's power range I would buy red or blue.
azrving 11/03/17 11:52am General RVing Issues
RE: Question about using run/start capacitors

This is too much to ask of a thousand watt generator. Figure two things going in....400% start current and a lying generator specification. Correction of waveform harmonic distortion is a completely different animal than trying to make up for surge voltage depression. You will have both. I did this with the Megawatt which does NOT have tremendous inductance of an electric motor. Dolly the A/C unit to the intended generator store. Seeing is believing and remember to de-rate for altitude. I have a COLUMBIA, AC ammeter with needle movement that is dampened almost perfectly. My LG 5K window air required almost seventeen amps at 125vac to start out. A larger cap reduced starting current to twelve and a half - more or less. Waveform correction must must must be designed around the generator stator's waveform under load. It is trial and error via oscilloscope. This is why my KATO stator has twice the copper windings. The easiest move for you seems to be take the mountain to Mohammad. Try it with the generator and if the generator falters, I would consider it a fail. My 900-watt Frightening Harbor generator grunts when starting a 24 foot chest freezer. It cannot power a kitchen refrigerator already running and start the freezer. It is E CAVEAT EMPTOR when buying a generator.
MEXICOWANDERER 10/30/17 03:32pm Tech Issues
RE: More WFCO Woes

Returning to magic mushroom land of WFCO I purchased .003" sheets of carbon graphite. Before the Wiffie barfed I set a small barrier between the resistorus erectus and the capacitor. It dropped temperature by 25F. Even a tiny muffin fan on that side of the circuit board makes a huge difference in component temperature. Two choices with the original fan - go higher CFM or give the perverter a lobotomy. Eliminate the fan and go with a smaller one like mentioned above. The Hyperwatt has a replacement for the original Megawatt fan. 30% more watts. Then a larger fan in the front of the case blowing straight down onto the toroid chokes and transformer. The build-it-cheap philosophy reminds me Chinese aptitude. Takes too long and costs to much to plug things in and see if they work. SHIP IT! I'd take a bet not one WFCO executive Boondock RV's. And if one did they would be using a competitor's converter. Recycled electronics in the US --- where do they go? I can see trying to recover copper, tantalum and a bit of gold, but the process would be net sum minus. Oh well, I have a prohibited from sale in California battery charger to fix. Mail all of your non fixable electronic chargers to... Governor Jerry Moonbeam Brown 1315 10th St, Sacramento, CA 95814
MEXICOWANDERER 10/28/17 05:17pm Tech Issues
Amazon's Jeff Bezos Just Opened A Massive Wind Farm In Texas

video Amazon has announced that its biggest wind farm to date is operational. In a statement on Thursday, the business said that Amazon Wind Farm Texas would add over 1 million megawatt hours (MWh) of clean energy to the grid annually. The facility, which is located in Scurry County, has over 100 turbines, each standing more than 300-feet tall and with a rotor diameter over double the wingspan of a Boeing 787. He and Bill Gates are the two richest people on the planet but I would bet his company Amazon paid for it. He does own the aerospace manufacturer Blue Origin that lands rockets in Texas after going into space. video
8.1 Van 10/20/17 03:40pm Around the Campfire
RE: Wfco amp test.. What are you pendant guys getting?

Time is money when using a generator to recharge a battery. If a charger does not have a correct voltage profile you pay for it in wasted fuel. With a manual Megawatt, a 36 amp model I guarantee I can fully recharge a battery in One - Third the time it takes your WFCO. With my big manual charger I slice twenty minutes more. No brand of automatic charger can do this but trying to make a WFCO into an optimum charger is like hiring a one-armed brick-layer. Or buying Lucas electrical parts to gain reliability. An oxymoron with oak-leaf-clusters and diamonds.
MEXICOWANDERER 10/11/17 12:02am Tech Issues
RE: Megawatt Inrush And Small Generators

I think i know what he is saying The cap goes across the megawatt input, It will be charged when you hold the pushbutton switch closed It will be charged at the RMS voltage level It is NOT going to go from zero to 178 back to zero The stored RMS 120v will add Momentary starting current to input/, induction circuit of the mega watt, allowing a small generator to energize the circuit and charge batteries It's not the 700w charging that stops an 800w generator, it's the inrush current very similar to starting an induction motor like a compressor Since a run cap is designed to be left in the circuit, using it as a momentary start cap will not hurt it, and if needed , it could be hard wired to the mega watt and left in the circuit, The input of the megawatt becomes an LC load circuit, not just An L load I am sorry, but what you are saying about the capacitor is simply not true. The voltage across the capacitor is and must change 120 times per second! First Half Cycle ... The voltage across the capacitor ramps to +170 Volts peak. Then it ramps down to 0 Volts. Second Half Cycle... The voltage across the capacitor ramps to -170 Volts peak. Then it ramps down to 0 Volts. These two half cycles will repeat 60 times per second while the button is pressed. The Voltage is AC = Alternating Current, NOT DC. The capacitor charges and discharges 120 times per second. Nothing that you say, can stop this from happening. Nothing.
mvas 10/10/17 12:26pm Tech Issues
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