RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for 'Megawatt' found 166 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 9  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Generator questions!

K.I.S.S. reigns supreme. I'm retired, but have plenty of other things to take up my time besides figuring out how to supply external control signals to that power supply in order to set it's voltage and current outputs. I read it's .pdf manual ... and couldn't see where any readout meters or control knobs were located on it's chassis. It has DEFAULT controls EXACTLY the same as any Meanwell or Megawatt. Exterior potentiometer. Using the OPTIONAL current, voltage and sense lead is exactly that, OPTIONAL. It's all discussed in the online nomenclature. Mr. Wizard's greatly appreciated link to an INDUCTIVE panel ammeter would be a simple to add aid. No one who Boondocks should be without an accurate ammeter and voltmeter. The last thing I expect to do when boondocking is sit on my --- watching television and controlling my environment with a remote. I have to force myself to actually arise out of a chair to perform chores. Toss the "campfire light and adjust flame" remote into a drawer and walk around - it's good for the heart. The nice thing about manual (voltage limited) battery charging is the process is not a Gyro Gearloose lab experiment where a bit too long equals a mushroom cloud. Having a battery sit for a half hour after minimum amps is achieved isn't going to hurt the battery at a 14.8 volt charging limit. But who in the world starts a generator to recharge batteries forgets about it? The ergonomics is absurdly simple. If it took three hours the last time to recharge them from 50% what would make the "next time different if the same hotel parasitic draw was reasonably the same? Set an audio timer on a cell phone or any other type of timer. For especially stubborn cases rig up a dog shock collar with a timer. Having actually done this and being with folks who charge batteries with a manual power supply I can say the process is absurdly simple and unobtrusive. The key is the generator. Who ignores s generator? Who will forget that it is running? Connecting a power supply to a pedestal is infinitely more important to insure automatic charging shutdown. When pistons are going up and down, and money is flying out of my wallet for fuel and wear and tear, the last thing I need to do is waste my time listening to a generator run endlessly doing nothing. Adding 10 - 20% more ampere hours into the batteries in the same amount of time is important to me........especially on the way back from the gas station with a far lighter wallet. When I start any of my generators, they are going to work and not play games. And I am not going to use excess effort or personal energy in the process. My batteries cost way too much to abuse. Personally, I use a Samsung cellphone's timer to remind me of ANY time important event taking place. The alarm even reminds me to take medicine on time. Choosing to do stuff manually reminds me of my personal joke about whether to perform all the effort to prepare a meal or simply run down to the Golden Arches a McSlider. After all the syntho burger is a no brainer, eliminates hunger pangs, and well dying young from cardiac infarction is, well it is EASIER than doing stuff manually. Charging with a power supply and generator pales in comparison to to actually HAVING TO COOK and wash dishes. How could I ever survive camping without a McSlider and push button dishwasher?
MEXICOWANDERER 09/22/17 01:34pm Tech Issues
RE: Generator questions!

After roaring and fuming, this power supply gets my vote and the only viable battery charger that will do whatever you want it to. . . . http://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/RSP-750-15.shtml Whoa ! Mexico, I thought you were hooked on MegaWatt power supplies. Why the change of heart ? Personally, I think a 50A power supply is overkill for someone with a dual 6V golf cart battery bank. This single unit would be by far the quickest route to charge batteries as used in a stand alone position. The Megawatt intends to be a supplemental charging unit used to augment a "decent" on board converter. The WFCO is an indecent on board converter and folks who rely on a WFCO for boondocking are braver than I. If the converter does what WFCO does "best" a 400 watt Megawatt is just plain too small. This Meanwell pumps out a minimum of 50 amperes and when you calculate a 50 percent SOC acceptance in excess of 100 amperes, suddenly 50 looks like the bare minimum. After about an hour's worth of charging charge acceptance will be falling toward the 50 amp mark but with the unit set at 14.8 volts, it's going to feed far and away more power safely than any brainless smart charger. I chose a pair of modified Megawatts as the heart of the Borg system. Not the least of which is the fact the Borg is two Megawatts meaning backups that are totally interchangeable with one another. More modifications meant a total charger delivery in excess of 90 amperes. And a programmable timer to default from absorbsion to float whenever I wish. And utterly adjustable absorbsion and float voltage limits AND an ability to supply in excess of 40 amperes at FLOAT to eliminate psychotic needless cycling with varying hotel loads. When a person considers it takes a wheeled charger the size of a 7,000 BTU portable air conditioner to do less than what a cigar box size Meanwell can do, the choice is pretty clear. This critter has a remote on/off switch capability and remote voltage sensing capability. There is no one-size-fits-all answer for battery charging. It took a lot of effort from Mr Crippled here to manufacture the Borg. I certainly do not expect anyone in their right mind follow in my footsteps. The Borg has been working 24/7 for years. This is what I demanded. I am going forward with the successor of the Borg, the Hyperwatt. The Hyperwatt will have twin 56 amp Megawatts, but the float unit will use an ultra heavy duty thermistor to compensate temps from -20F to +122F
MEXICOWANDERER 09/22/17 02:05am Tech Issues
RE: Generator questions!

After roaring and fuming, this power supply gets my vote and the only viable battery charger that will do whatever you want it to. . . . http://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/RSP-750-15.shtml Whoa ! Mexico, I thought you were hooked on MegaWatt power supplies. Why the change of heart ? Personally, I think a 50A power supply is overkill for someone with a dual 6V golf cart battery bank.
theoldwizard1 09/21/17 05:25pm Tech Issues
RE: RV "Hot Skin" and GFCI?

Yup. Do yourself a favor. Set you DMM on AC amps, stick one lead in the earth, and touch the other lead to the trailer. What do you see*? Always better with an analog meter but a digital will have to do. Power supplies like the Meanwell and Megawatt are famous for absolutely needing an earth ground for safety. The Bipolar transistors are to blame. Regardless of the cause, cure the effect and maintain integrity for safety. On both sides I always look for unintentional bond of neutral to ground.
MEXICOWANDERER 08/16/17 11:20pm Tech Issues
Found A Source For 420 Volt 680 uf Megawatt Capacitors

They just fit edge to edge (fatter but not extremely tall), lead for lead and come within a hair of the roof cover. 105c, extremely low ESR mil-spec. New old stock Navy shipboard stuff. Beatza snot outta original 680uf 200 volt 85c capacitors. Going to place an order this week. They have been stored in Henderson Nevada so they enjoyed bone dry air. Owner says they have been "sealed" in preservative bags at his place since 1998. I am going to purchase (20) Even my Meanwells use the same caps at the Megawatts.
MEXICOWANDERER 07/31/17 09:48pm Tech Issues
TINKER TINKER Megawatt Rheostat

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/WLkAAOSwEBxZbfO1/s-l1600.jpg height=500 width=500 http://www.ebay.com/itm/25W-High-Power-300-OHM-Wirewound-Potentiometer-Rheostat-Variable-Resistor-US-/112486214189?nma=true&si=Ebj7LRFD9OznhPKS382NKfj9mTM%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 Voltage setting resistors. With a multi-step single stage switch. I purchased several of them. Gold contacts. To be used on my son-in-law's Click-o-watt to be. The power supply does not issue a totally accurate unloaded voltage. Disconnected from a battery, the voltage will be .12 to say .24 volts higher. So I want to calibrate the voltage steps right on the nose. And using a tiny 10-turn Bourns pot is a PITA. So I got lazy and have just ordered the above to help my fumble fingers. Big, clumsy, and insanely easy to work with. Just keep the resistance ring and carbon contact on the rheostat clean and it's a great aid in pre-selecting resistor values. Here is the way things are going to work... The power supply is only useful for battery charging purposes from 200 ohms down to say 50 ohms control resistance. 11-volts high resistance is not needed (nor anything close to that) nor do I need precise voltage control above say 14.8 volts. Let's give the control good span between 13.1 volts and 13.8 volts. 9-steps. Two optional steps for voltage settings above 13.8 volts. Since Jesus has a flooded marine battery one of the two optional steps will be 16.0 volts WHICH THE MEGAWATT CAN DO An ON/ON switch is incorporated into the controls. And it is wired IN SERIES with the click-click-click switch. One side of the ON/ON switch is a direct connection. The OTHER connection has a BIASING 10 ohm resistor. The output wires from the switch lead directly to the click-click-click switch. From the switch to a tiny perforated circuit board 12 22 gauge wires jump 4". The precision resistors are soldered onto the board. The board permits EASY coupling of resistors in series to attain EXACTLY the resistance value that the real-life rheostat test proves to be valid for exact pre-setting of Megawatt finish voltage. The 10 ohm biasing resistor is there the help E=MC2 achieve reality. It will noodge voltage upward by a tenth or so. My son in law has an eighth grade education and the 10-turn pot bothers him. So we are going to do "McDonalds Cash Register" ergonomics and label each of the switch clicks. Fine tuning for temperature. A top charge setting, then a another switch with bright flashing LED and piezo chime that is resistor set for equalization. No worries. The charger has a 12-hour intermatic spring wind up timer. I have already found an 800 ma 120 volt 13.4 volt (with a group 31 RV battery) fixed transformer style power supply to go inside the click-o-watt. The 5 amp ampere regulator is a 12 volt 50 watt light bulb in series with the ClickOwatt battery charging cable clamps. All he has to do is keep the damned thing out of the clutches of tropical beach salt laden air... ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is Jim In Denver's, reconstituted Megawatt. It now has been significantly modified as per photo and unseen components. New Panasonic primary and secondary capacitors, 80-ampere rather than 30 ampere rectifiers, 145% higher capacity choke, quintuple (500%) increase in fooling airflow. A straight to board elimination of OEM potentiometer, and highly modified transient suppressor network inside. The unit now is a 56 constant ampere power supply. It's moniker is THE HYPERWATT http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s380/mexbungalows/20170719_115155_zpsq5hglrk7.jpg
MEXICOWANDERER 07/19/17 12:26pm Tech Issues
RE: Meanwell PS creates a load?

The secret is to find an isolation device that does not act like your banker: Charge you a fee to count and use your money. Except for inevitable questions about lifespan, it is tough to argue against a top quality totally-automatic battery solenoid-separator. It has negligible voltage drop no issues when equalizing a battery. When the power supply circuit voltage drops below a certain value (cessation of charge) there is total and absolute isolation of the power supply. Again no thinking no sweat, automatic. I was "encouraged" to use a Schottky based dual rectifier because of the twin power supplies of the Borg. No way was a pair of battery separators going to fit in the Borg's case. Why Schottky? Why 500 amperes rating? A typical automobile full wave bridge rectifier is going to see .8 - .9 volts drop at 40 amperes output. Paralleling all three phase rectifiers The Schottky has .22vf. Each Megawatt is connected to a separate anode. 40 amperes versus 250 amperes capacity. The online full wave bridge rectifiers a person sees on eBay have superb components, commonly rated 1Kv PIV. But with those high PIV values come higher forward voltage drop. An eBay rectifier commonly develops 1.1 - 1.2 volts drop at or near full ampacity. Compare that to the 500 amp Schottky. When building alternators I trusted nothing. Even new rectifiers got tested, graded and sometimes rejected. Selectable 25, 40, or 50 amperes and always 1Kv reverse leakage. Renard and Traanspo bragged they sold 200 PIV stuff. In reality about 98% of what I purchased passed 1Kv and 1ma PIV. The 1200 ampere rectifiers I use in Quicksilver and the Delco 50DN are rated 1,675 PIV. These monsters have 2/0 braid leads with 1/2" terminal holes and 1-1/8" studs with extremely fine threads. Made in Vermont and used in the metal plating industry. Purchased through Barney Kaplan Supply, Detroit. Isolating a power supply via rectifiers is more involving then doing it with a simple and relatively inexpensive battery separator. Because of the 28 volt question I would tend to gently urge Mr. Brulaz, to consider the battery separator. Dinner for 3 at a nice restaurant would cost about the same.
MEXICOWANDERER 07/16/17 06:18pm Tech Issues
RE: 2017 F-150HD or F-250?

Some good stuff here - thanks! My current 150 EB has no engine braking to speak of, but uphill is no problem and it runs strong at 2500-3000 RPM. I've towed the same TH with a 3/4 ton Dodge Cummins, which was a more stable and relaxing TV esp downhill. I do a lot of hills in Oregon, mostly small ones, and I like to lower torque curve of the turbos (diesel or gas). I don't like to listen to a gas V8 run at 5-6k RPM to be in the meat of the curve. So the EB (470 ft lbs) or a diesel will fit the bill. I have 8x 2 megawatt Cummins deisel gens at my shop so I know the costs of maintenance are up there. But I also have a lot of free motor oil laying around. ;) I'm leaning towards the F-250 diesel. The F150HD is very hard to find (I found 1), and I think either way I will need to order to get what I want. I do NOT want the FX4 package, and I DO want the Tow Tech package and that's been difficult to find on a F250 Crewcab. OP Mike
mhamershock 07/09/17 01:42pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Today's Response From Trojan

Stabbing lead posts with Oldaker test probe points using multiple meters for verification of data. The Borg has 6' x (2) 6 AWG leads and Mueller 100-ampere copper clips. Voltage drop obviously must be present and it averages .21 volts at full rated output @ 14.8 volts. Voltage drop doubles to .46 volt at full rated output. Ampere hour accumulation corroborates the values shown. To extrapolate theory with real observation when the 3300 amp hour bank needs a crucial recharge I use the 50DN alternator plus the ferroresonant 220 ampere charger. 385+220 amperes, in excess of 600 amperes. 28.8 volts is the goal. Remember I am using 350 mcm cable and there are 4 leads. Instant Vabs Max is only useful for a minority percentage of the entire charge exercise. The first thirty percent with my FLAs. Amps per volts subsequently is not linear. Reliance on stable Vabs Max with no automatic default is every bit as important, time wise to minimize run-time. Do the batteries get warm? Yes of course. A 25 degree Delta T (differential) is not unusual. The Borg was conceptualized for a maximum 200 ampere hour battery bank. To me, realizing greater output from a shoebox size charger was not rational. Being a receptacle connected device thought had to be given toward limitations of available input power. If there is anything out there that can vie with the Borg's power and versatility (and utility) I am not aware of it. My defective body carries the charger with ease even though it has a 20 gauge steel enclosure. Since the Lifelines are on standby I am going to substitute a CheapOwatt for the Borg. Set at 13.20 volts. I may or may not build another Gigawatt and swap them for the original units. A thermistor influenced Megawatt is a few rungs higher up the ladder. Amphenol mil-sprec gold socket and plug. Armored lead. With the wireless amp hour meter and voltage divider (pot) placed in series with a timer for float the project promises to be interesting.
MEXICOWANDERER 07/08/17 02:54am Tech Issues
RE: A Fumbling I Will Go Megawatt. Photobucket To Dropbos

A $25,000* programmed controller interfacing with a 32 port $5,000 A to D interface and a few grand for FETs and SCRs would make it "easier". The computer is reasonable. Three weeks of programmer's time, then two weeks of de-bugging, isn't cheap. BULK CHARGING We have a say 400 amp hour, 200 usable at 50% SOC Down 200 amp hours, huh? Let's let the dominant Megawatt the one with the 12 hour time do ALL the work. No we are not using generator power for this one. Dial in 14.8 voltage regulated on the pot. Five hours theoretical at 40 amperes charge rate is a pipe dream. Let's do a mental calisthenics and rudely GUESS (8) eight hours of bulk charge. After all, this is the FIRST TIME the Borg will be used on this a flooded lead acid 400 amp hour battery bank. Twist the timer to 8 hours. Bored? Come back in say 6 hours and see how the cells are doing. 6 hours and only four are bubbling? We weren't far off in our timer guess. Return to find the timer shut of. AHHHH SUGAR! bigdeal. Twist the timer a tad then look at the cells. Oooooo they're all bubbling. The 8 hour guess was right on target. Not on target? Goose the timer another hour or so. Add that to the 8 hours. Batteries are not feminine. They do not change their mind. If it took 9 hours this time it will take 9 hours the next time. 74% state of charge? Maybe 3 hours? This isn't a nuclear "psychics" crystal ball subject - an exact number or the plutonium will get angry. Amplitude configured with time voltage/time is what determines when and how vigorously a flooded battery will start gassing. Higher than 14.8 volts gassing rapidly becomes overly sensitive to time spent at that voltage. Still worried. Fine. Set the voltage back to 14.7 or 14.5. Whatever you wish. WITH A GENERATOR Mama and Papa bear both go to work if the battery bank size warrants it. Dial both chargers up to 14.7 The one charger has a timer the second one doesn't. So a person can't do this and go over to friend's and watch a football game, drinking martinis a few hundred campsites distant. Again, learn from the first episode how long it takes to get the cells bubbling. Having an on-board ammeter makes this child's play. At 14.8 volts and a slump down to "X" amperes means the slightly bubbling batteries are charged. This recipe may not be suitable for individuals who self induce short-term memory loss. CRUDE means EFFECTIVE, and it means VERSATILE. When I go camping with $400 worth of batteries, I do not want to receive $300 worth of battery performance because a smart charger is insane and cannot tell a properly charged battery from ----. If I EVER get Soooooooo lazy camping, that this CHARGER (not converter) overtaxes my energy or mental facilities, it it time to sell the rig, and go somewhere where room service is but just a "Dial 0" away. But then I do not haul an $80,000 rig 300 miles, park, slam all the shutters closed, raise the satellite dish and tune in a television reality show depicting a crackling campfire while I watch DVD homicide dramas on another monitor, while the DW orders up elivered ribs and cracks a bottle of sparkling burgundy.
MEXICOWANDERER 07/07/17 06:10pm Tech Issues
RE: A Fumbling I Will Go Megawatt. Photobucket To Dropbos

Head scratching is of little value during a dry run test. To spend a month creating articles only to have them swallowed is discouraging. The true test of interest is a response posted in words as a question. I ain't into doing transcript back-flips to satisfy idle curiosity. Edwin Holtzman, my physics professor "If they are merely browsing they will seek no specific answer" The megawatt issue has been covered so many times, enough is enough. Interested parties are after specific instructions. I am trying to satisfy those interested parties.
MEXICOWANDERER 07/06/17 06:46pm Tech Issues
RE: Today's Response From Trojan

I tried it with the Megawatt. Sorry Charlie
MEXICOWANDERER 07/06/17 06:33pm Tech Issues
A Fumbling I Will Go Megawatt. Photobucket To Dropbos

This is a test. It is only a test. Soldering 10-turn Pot leads to Megawatt existing resistor. I am in the process of trying to fumble Boto----et images to Drop Box http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s380/mexbungalows/Soldering%20The%20Pot%20003_zpsqkdxtzeg.jpg http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s380/mexbungalows/Soldering%20The%20Pot%20005_zps0hmalye8.jpg http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s380/mexbungalows/Soldering%20The%20Pot%20004_zpsuio6gap8.jpg http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s380/mexbungalow/Soldering%20The%20Pot%20007_zpsafqc4gxp.jpg The BORG. Not a shiny hood ornament. Dirty, dusty, been humming 24/7 for almost 2-years. Note wind up timer on side and 2-10 turn pots on roof. Red and Green pilot lamps are LED. The case contains two Megawatts and a 50-amp Schottky rectifier http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s380/mexbungalows/Enchilada%20Sauce%20015_zpsen9c5xsr.jpeg http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s380/mexbungalows/Soldering%20The%20Pot%20009_zpsg9uzjvqi.jpg My 20MB first-time-in-my-life-I-have-in-house-modem really helps. Installed 4:00 PM today.
MEXICOWANDERER 07/05/17 11:23pm Tech Issues
RE: Why can't I get a TRUE Deep cycle battery anymore?

It has to do with passage of electrons through openings in the glass mat (I had to simplify this forgive me). Like all things electro-chemical the formula is not linear. But suffice it to say Charge a depleted AGM slowly over weeks and months Fail to reach 100% charge over weeks and months The AGM will throw a Kevorkian Fit. Toss another reason why the insanely high ampere rechargeability of a Lifeline appeals to me. But slow and partial recharging is a cumulative degradation. It takes time and the degree of discharge makes all the difference in the world. For instance no AGM could care less if only discharged 40%. Meaning 60% remaining. But the less than full recharge enters the picture. The longer that insufficient recharge is sustained added to the percentage missing is how that mistreatment is factored. Perspective Even 4-5 weeks camping while shortchanging the recharging is not going to kill an AGM. But using a Schmart Charger to recover after you get home is yet another insult to the process. Another Megawatt Moment...
MEXICOWANDERER 07/02/17 08:20am Tech Issues
Can I double up on wire?

Doing this on the megawatt made me wonder: I have a bunch of 8/4 wire, nice and flexible, in heavy housing. Could I run 2 pos and 2 neg, and use it for my battery connections? 2x 8ga = what gauge?
Naio 07/01/17 10:57pm Tech Issues
RE: Got my new (used) batteries!! Now, how do I rejuvenate them?

Do Kill a watts work properly On the output of Inverter? Even if they do, they will not account for the inverter losses or line losses from ther battery. Get the battery to 14.7ish, twist pot to hold it at 14.7ish when charging. Not being familiar with the Megawatt, I can only relate that with my meanwell rsp-500-15. I only have to account for voltage drop difference on my wiring at 40 amps, compared to 0.4 amps. I only bother to turn mine higher loaded or unloaded when i want 40 amps to last for longer while battery is climbing to 14.7v. If time is not an issue and max amps for max duration is not an issue, then if I set my Meanwell unloaded to 14.7, it will get to 14.7v by the time amps taper to the single digits. Somewhat slower to just set it to 14.7v and let it go, compared to setting it to 15.3v to hold 40 amps until battery terminals getto 14.7v( accounting for voltage drop, but no constant pot fiddlement is required. For the load test, Amp draw at beginning of test, just before ending test, the duration of the test, and voltage readings at those endmarks can reveal enough info for us to make edu mun cated guesses as to the health of each battery you test. The same load and the same duration test will allow valid comparisons between batteries. How many KWH or AH actually pass out of the battery can be inferred close enough from the amperage at the beginning of test, and the end of the test, and how long the test was performed, minimizing all variables. Meaning do not start test, stop test, goto bed for 8 hours and then restart test as that will reveal nothing helpful. Throw a 4 to 8 am pload on each battery individually for a set period of time, record initial battery voltage unloaded, then loaded, record amperage, then after X amount of time, record amperage flowing record voltage at battery terminals, then remove load, record voltage at 30 seconds, 5 minutes then and hour then 5 hours. Seek to perform the same test on subsequent batteries keeping all variables as close as possible, and then there IS a basis for comparison, not only from battery to battery, but then again on the same battery if one is going to rechrge it again and load test it again, and compare the voltages/ results to the previous test. Measure and time the load, return the battery to full charge recording the charging amps and duration and voltage, then load it again. Do this a few times and it removes nearly ALL the mystery of how a battery stores and releases the energy it has the ability to contain. Do this a few times and you can look back on this thread in a year and wonder how it was not so obvious to you then. Ammeter, voltmeter, load and a clock. You have those tools and the sources. If your battery is not going to accept much more than 25 amps, this tool will record Amp hours and watt hours, upto 64AH with about 90% accuracy. Sorry no direct link, copy and paste: https://www.amazon.com/GT-Power-Analyzer-Consumption-Performance/dp/B00C1BZSYO I feel all ~ 25 amp charging sources should have one. I modify mine with 8awg and push 40 amps thorough it without concern and it is almost shockingly revealing as to what the battery is accepting/has accepted from the charging source. not 100% accurate by any means but a zillion times better than 'it has held 12.92v for a week now, is it good?'
landyacht318 06/27/17 11:20pm Tech Issues
RE: Got my new (used) batteries!! Now, how do I rejuvenate them?

John Marles is a very savvy, honest individual. No, those power supplies are not supposed to "max out" hour after hour. This is why I investigated, and found the top three weak points in the Megawatt, experimented, and deduced the three answers to reduce failure rate at over-max loading. I have had one of my modified 36-amp (400 watt) Megawatts producing maximum amperage for eleven days straight. With an ambient temperature in excess of 90F. The few mods I did renders the Megawatt near bulletproof. Get a wire grill screen guard for the original fan. Cut the segments out of the aluminum case cutout leaving a large hole Attach the wire fan guard. An immense increase in air flow Put small legs under the Megawatt case. Otherwise most of the air inlet is blocked if sitting flat. Replace 2 largest capacitors with Panasonic low ESR 105c 680uf 200 volt units, the replacements are slightly smaller. Replace 2 schottky rectifiers (30 HSQ 100) with EIGHTY AMPERE, 150 volt rectifiers. Both grades of rectifier are identical physically.
MEXICOWANDERER 06/27/17 01:34pm Tech Issues
RE: Got my new (used) batteries!! Now, how do I rejuvenate them?

Naio, According to your post you are doing everything correctly. The battery you reported on should be put into service and with those thick plates should give you long, trouble-free service. A lot of this chatter deals with nuances. I should make myself clearer as to what is interesting versus what is important. Once Delta T voltage slump is established, compensated voltage should be noted then can be dialed-into the initial power supply setting when voltage is pre-set meaning before the cables are connected to the battery. For instance, my power supplies. Lambda, Meanwell, and Megawatt all slump when connected to battery. This means, the converter will show say 14.70 volts with cables disconnected, but then settle on 14.51 when connected. Voltage does not rise to 14.52 What to do? Then, do not pre-set the disconnected voltage at 14.70. It will be .19 volts too low. Twist the adjustment pot to 14.70 + .19 volt = 14.89 Disconnected pre-set voltage thusly will be set at 14.89 Monitor finish voltage to be sure this is a correct assumption and tweak accordingly. Different types of batteries will have different amounts of Delta T voltage slump. Types of batteries, not size or state of charge. Once the Delta T compensation is set, it is set. Note it. Write it down on a strip of masking tape. Example: 14.70 set to 14.89 13.30 set to 13.39
MEXICOWANDERER 06/22/17 12:30pm Tech Issues
RE: Got my new (used) batteries!! Now, how do I rejuvenate them?

Thank you, both of you :). One of my remaining batteries is at 12.35. Should I do anything differently with it, due to low SOC? Will the Megawatt keep itself to 36amps, or do I need to wstch and lower voltage to keep amps from going too high? Any other special considerations for that low a battery?
Naio 06/22/17 12:15pm Tech Issues
RE: Got my new (used) batteries!! Now, how do I rejuvenate them?

While not personally familiar with the Megawatt, I do not need to constantly fiddle with voltage pot on my Meanwell if I do not want. I can set it to 14.7v and the battery terminals will be somewhat lower than this depending on how many amps are flowing and how depleted the battery is. When there are no dc loads on a charging battery, and the amperage increases to hold the same voltage, well Mex once said during teh screw31 thread, that this was the very beginnings of thermal runaway, and I stopped charging, or monitored heat build up closely when I saw this occur, on my old flooded battery. Never saw it on my AGM. While charging slows a lot at 13.6v, compared to 14.7v, rather than turning it on and off, if you've got shore power I'd set MW voltage to 13.6ish, and let it go when you do not want to have to monitor it and then goose it to 14.7 when you can be there to monitor amperage and temperature. 13.6v is not going to heat a AGM battery at 77f ambient. The Micropotentiometers provided with these powersupplies are not meant for constant adjustment. They are rated for only 25 or 50 cycles, and that is a Bourns brand( usually blue in color). Who knows what the cheaper orange ones are rated at. I hope the simple instructions as to how to replace the provided pot with a 10 turn upgraded pot can be published soon. I've done it on the cheapowatt, and my Meanwell. I removed electronic guts from casing to do so, but I think Mex has a method for accomplishing this without removing the guts to access underside. Removing the guts is pretty easy, but one should have new thermal grease for reassembly as the transistors using the casing as a heatsink.
landyacht318 06/22/17 11:49am Tech Issues
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 9  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2017 CWI, Inc. © 2017 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS