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 > Your search for 'Megawatt' found 110 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
AGM Battery Charging THE PRIME DIRECTIVE

I have gotten several communications about AGM battery maintenance. Using solar voltaic charging. The big error I read is that the subject of total and complete recharging is not mentioned. And that is the # 1 most important mandatory requirement in AGM management. If panels cannot do it and your electricity charger cannot do it you are condemning the battery. The battery must be subjected to enough power to allow resistance to rise so that applying 14.4 volts across the battery... One group 24 battery allows .4 AMP or less into the battery Group 27 or 31 .5 amp GC220 1.1 amp Multiple batteries? Add each additional battery. Four golf car batteries -- 480 amp hour total = 2.2 amps maximum at 14.4 volts Forget amo hour counting, slide rules or hocus pocus -- one half amp per hundred ampere hours at 14.4 volts. That's the battery's law not mine. And this is a CHEMICAL matter, so time spent discharge is critical. Cycled to 50% every day is not as significant as cycling to 50% and then allowing the battery to remain at 50% level for days on end. The CLOSER you can recover to that 1/2% flow of amperage the longer you can go without actually reaching the half percent at 14.4. The deeper the discharge the more critical it becomes It's exactly like radiation dosage. Accumulation is far more important than intensity or time. Only in this case it is depth of discharge and time spent at depth. A battery that is discharged to only 70% total capacity and then spending many weeks at that level is affected every bit as much as a battery that is discharged to 40% state of charge for 10 days. But no matter what getting the battery at 14.4 volts and one half of one percent amp hour capacity amperage flow is key. A measly 400 watt megawatt power supply can take over when your converter falls flat on it's face delivering less than 35 amps and the megawatt which is set a 14.4 volts will finish the job.
MEXICOWANDERER 04/26/18 03:13pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery Equilization PS Current Requirement

FIVE amps REGULATED AMPS. From starting voltage to 16.0 Volts 5.0 exact amps. Any other recipe is bogus. You need a power supply that reaches to SIXTEEN volts while maintaining exactly five amperes. The 26 amp Megawatt will go to 15.85 volts which is close enough. If you request it in advance, the Megawatt power supplies can be "built" to output 16.1V (at slightly lower than their rated current). An auto parts store FIFTY WATT trouble light 12 volt bulb will throttle amperage close enough to 5.0 amps as to be good enough. Placing a light bulb or suitable fixed resistor IN SERIES with the load, if an EXCELLENT way of current limiting any power supply that does NOT have current control. What you really want is a 3.1ohm - 3.5ohm resistor rated at about 75W. (Three 10ohm 25W resistors in parallel would be good.) If you are going to use a non-automatic charger (which is actually better in some ways), buy a cheap digital voltage/current meter from eBay.
theoldwizard1 04/05/18 05:37pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery Equilization PS Current Requirement

FIVE amps REGULATED AMPS. From starting voltage to 16.0 Volts 5.0 exact amps. Any other recipe is bogus. You need a power supply that reaches to SIXTEEN volts while maintaining exactly five amperes. The 26 amp Megawatt will go to 15.85 volts which is close enough. An auto parts store FIFTY WATT trouble light 12 volt bulb will throttle amperage close enough to 5.0 amps as to be good enough. VERY FEW ANYTHING can serve as an alternative to a power supply and a 12 volt 50-watt light bulb BECAUSE Which gizmo BRAINIAC converter can rise to 16.0 volts at five amps and maintain the charging specs for hours on end if need be? I'd love to hear of one, believe me. And no cake baking for 10 minutes at 2500F or 9 hours at 175F Argue with the BCI and my dealing with pallets of sulfated batteries. The above recipe works. Doesn't damage the battery and is relatively inexpensive to purchase. Positive wire runs in and out of the base then connects to battery positive. Yes, this would be a TWELVE VOLT light bulb https://thumbs.dreamstime.com/z/old-fashioned-incandescent-light-bulb-ceramic-base-dark-room-incandescent-light-bulb-ceramic-base-104626751.jpg height=500 width=500
MEXICOWANDERER 04/05/18 03:05pm Tech Issues
RE: Megawatt S-400 as boost charger up in smoke

I am currently parked in Antigua Guatemala and would be happy to send upon my return which will be several months from now. I am driving a 2006 Navion by Winnebago with the stock generator that will power the 18A HVAC with no problem. I have a combo volt/amp meter on my power source after the transfer unit which shows the characteristics of the power I have switched the transfer unit to. The voltage from the generator was at 120VAC out of the generator and I didn't make note of the amp reading. No other appliance other than the Norcold 6xx was running off the generator. I have two 4/0 welding cables run 10' from the two Costco GC2's in series that run into my louvered cabinet that has to two solid copper bus bars mounted there where the solar, a 2000W inverter (no, it wasn't on and is seldom) and the 2 solar controllers are tied into that bus as well to produce 430 watts. On this day it was heavy cloud cover after 3 days. There is a 500A shunt from my battery monitor on the negative terminal of the two series battery bank and on the positive terminal has a 300A AGC fuse in line. The wire going from the bus bars to the MegaWatt is two three foot long 4AWG stranded battery cables with the ends fanned out into 3 smaller twists that are covered in heat shrink and 3 spade connectors soldered on the end of the 4AWG cables to mount to the 3 Megawatt terminals for each DC output post . The Megawatt is in the same cabinet with a solid louvered door that is about two cubic feet and the door was open during the charging session.
don_a 04/01/18 01:05pm Tech Issues
RE: Megawatt S-400 as boost charger up in smoke

Would you care to do a little investigating to determine "what went wrong"? Where was the device placed and how did you mount it?What kind of generator was powering the device? Was the generator loaded or unloaded?Have you verified the generator speed (frequency) was 55 to Hz?How about voltage loaded and unloaded? GCFI Circuit breakers are normally rated for 15-amps. As the green white and black wires enter the Megawatt case, the very first thing they encounter is an axial lead read-precision, fast acting tubular fuse rated 10.0 amperes, then comes a pair of MOVS. Yes the factory rating of the Megawatt 400 is 30 amps. I have nine of the units. And have extensively modified 3 of them to produce as much as 55 amperes 24/7/365 My interest in this is to determine "What went wrong". Too many units have gone too long on much higher load amperages to consider what happened to your Megawatt "normal". The one that failed to my knowledge was set flat on a hard surface then charged at full capacity of 40+ amperes for days, trying to keep up with several 8-D batteries. Are you willing to work with me on this? It would involve you shipping the charger to the San Diego area. This is not an offer to gruesomely poke the corpse and see if it twitches. Check the stuff I listed above on your rig if you would be so kind. There was a $22 dollar junko Chinese clone of this machine that went further and worked harder than your 65 dollar unit and frankly my eyebrows are up to my forehead. But I am an old wizened-fart. I will wait to read your reply before moving on this :) A genuine offer to help...
MEXICOWANDERER 03/31/18 11:20pm Tech Issues
RE: Megawatt S-400 as boost charger up in smoke

I used a 23$ budget Megawatt coined the cheapowatt. Rated for 30 amps it would output close to 38 amps. Over 36 amps it made this sound which said things were not right. So I had to limit amperage to 36 or below by starting lower on the voltage scale and twiddling the potentiometer upward often. to keep it in the 30 to 26 amp range. i had rigged up a better potentiometer, i had increased heat dissipation with a better fan and some better mating of heatsink with casing. Eventually i got tired of the pot twiddling, and i set it to 14.8v unloaded, hooked it to a depleted battery and away it went, making that 'not right' noise. It lasted 17 minutes. I then bought the Meanwell RSP-500-15, and have been using that since september 2014 as a 40 amp charger converter floater equalizer, everything. I have increased its ventiation and heatsinking, and it has thousands of hours on it. Its voltage range is 13.12 to 19.23v. No personal experience with the Megawatt. I suspect the fans re culprits in the failure. The internal 60MM fans have a lot of restriction behind and in front of the fan. I had moved the fan to the exterior of the casing to reduce restriction. My MEanwell has a 40 and a 60MM fan on the lid, 40MM blowing in 60MM sucking out. The MW comes with a very loud powerful 40MM fan, but my ther fans keep it off below 32 amps of output. Send your 'boat anchor' to Mexwanderer.
landyacht318 03/31/18 10:59pm Tech Issues
Megawatt S-400 as boost charger up in smoke

It looks like this discussion is archived and can't be reopened (another example of some topics being locked up that are best kept open because the solution remains relevant), but that's another topic for another day. Today I want to warn anyone not to make the same mistake I did by following an old post here, and to supply the details to hopefully prevent someone else from repeating it and burning up a relatively expensive device. I was following a philosophy stated here of using a Megawatt S-400, setting it to 14.8V and attempting to change a battery while using a wind up timer to energize the MegaWatt for a short amount of time. I had two Costco GC2's in series in my coach that had discharged to about 85% according to my battery monitor when I started the generator. I then twisted the timer for 40 minutes and began to read while I waited. I noticed 36A charge reading right off the bat on the battery monitor so I decided to check the voltage on the actual battery terminals to see if anything was awry. (I had set the MegaWatt to 14.8V via the adjustment pot reading it with no load.) The voltage on the battery terminals read 14.3V which . After about 15 minutes of rapid-charging I smelled something a little odd and by 30 minutes the power supply had shorted out internally and tripped the GFI. Calling the manufacturer, the support person said that the charger would only produce 30A long term and that I burnt it up by not following the suggested amperage limitation. (There is no built in regulator for the device he stated.) Anyway I have a boat anchor now so other people who want to build a single stage "boost only" charger from previous suggestions in this forum should keep this in mind if your 14.8V boost supply is rated at under 30A in reality as this one is (apparently).
don_a 03/31/18 10:35pm Tech Issues
Megawatt As A Battery Charger

What separates the Megawatt from old fashioned transformer manual battery chargers is it's adjustable voltageAll the difference in the world for safety and accuracyThe missing control is a timer which is necessary and not hard to installLet's charge batteries!For flooded batteries on generator power I recommend 14.8 volts. Time limited. One discharged group 24 needs about 2 hours to chargeTherefore 2 batteries would need 4 hoursBut that is not the best way to recharge when camping and you have an on board CONVERTER CHARGER. Let the converter charger do it's thing until it falls flat on it's face and starts charging at less than 40 ampsStart the Megawatt to finish the chargeTry one hour's time at 14.8 volts and see how the batteries like itYou may need to tweak the time up or down for future chargesFor AGM set the Megawatt of 14.4 volts. When the onboard converter falls flat on it's face start the Megawatt. Let amperage slump to one half an amp for a 100 amp hour AGM, or one full amp for a pair of 100 amp hour AGM batteriesCharging elapsed time shutoff is not as strict on AGM batteries as it is with flooded batteriesIf amperage drops to one half amp who cares? It can stay there for an extra one or three hoursGetting a feel for timing a charge comes naturally. Cooking a 17 pound turkey versus an 11 pound turkey is harder to remember and deal with than tweaking battery charge timesUnless a charger or converter allows the user to set the total time of the main charge it is not a charger, it is a toy. A pretender.
MEXICOWANDERER 03/26/18 09:32pm Tech Issues
RE: 27DCs and SG Lag Problems

Got 8 Megawatt 400s. With pot shorted 16.11 volts. They did improve the fan quality. Some ads say 13.8 volts Some say 14.0 volts Everything with regards to ads these days is opinionated by people who have never seen more than a photo never mind used one. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 400 Watt 9 to 15 Volts DC Regulated Radio *MegaWatt®* Power Supply 40 Amp Peak Real MegaWatt not a China Clone Now all Power Supplies come with Double Ball Bearing 60,000 hour dust proof Cooling Fans. Actual voltage adjustment 10 to over 15 VDC "13.8" This Power Supply is made for powering HAM Radios, CBs and Linear Amps. The output section of the power supply is highly filtered to eliminate RF. **** 36 amps at a 90% duty cycle **** 30 amps continuously 24 hours a day **** Will run up to 40 amp peak output **** Full Factory Support **** Super clean filtered power, no noise in your electronics **** Operates on 120 volts AC or 220 volts AC, 47Hz to 63Hz **** The power supply is 9 X 4 5/8 X 2 inches **** Each unit comes with a power cord Thanks for stopping by.
MEXICOWANDERER 03/26/18 08:18pm Tech Issues
RE: 27DCs and SG Lag Problems

There is the HARD WAY then there is the EASY WAY. Choose wisely https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71V7Mwr4mqL._SL1172_.jpg height=500 width=500 Damned near thinking about assembling KITS for the MEANWELL and MEGAWATT AC power cord 3/16 wired to Intermatic 4-hour timer then to correct PIN terminalsTwin color coded 12-gauge battery cable connectors -clips- soldered
MEXICOWANDERER 03/26/18 01:25pm Tech Issues
RE: 27DCs and SG Lag Problems

A Meanwell or Megawatt makes top charging or equalization a snap. Connect the power wires to a battery. Connect a hardware store INTERVAL TIMER to the 120 vac power wire to the power supply. To stir a pair of group 24 batteries that are on FLOAT I would set the power supply voltage to 15 volts then limit the time to one-half hour. NOTE Mix & match the 8 and the 4 amp light bulbs to get closest to 5% amp hour rating of your bank. Four L-16's? No problem. Huge charger then configure in series connection FORTY AMPS worth of light bulbs. Only a larger Meanwell or shop roll-a-round charger could do all batteries at once. Three paralleled 1oo watt 12 volt light bulbs would be close enough.
MEXICOWANDERER 03/24/18 12:39pm Tech Issues
RE: Black and Decker Vector "smart" charger

Institute command override to prevent shutdown of red part. Shutdown usually occurs when positioned in recliner in extension mode, with syntho-beverage clutched in fist. https://i.pinimg.com/564x/8a/d1/2c/8ad12c7198102f4ae083f2d10f3440d8.jpg height=400 width=500 Buy Megawatt or Meanwell. Set voltage at 14.8 and shutdown in 2 hours Set to 14.0 and come back tomorrow Set at 13.7 and never come back in which case when it comes time, Back Hoe will lower you and recliner into your final resting place...
MEXICOWANDERER 03/21/18 09:35pm Tech Issues
RE: Another AGM conditioning question

Download the FREE Lifeline battery manual Turn to page 21 Conditioning You need to disconnect batteries being conditioned from the coach as conditioning voltage is damaging to RV components. Can whatever you are using for a charger regulate voltage to 15.5 volts and stay there hour after hour? The hassles of where in the system the coach converter hooks to and then directing it to a single series pair is just awful. Not feasible. Connecting a 36-amp MEGAWATT to an isolated from the coach series pair is feasible. And the Megawatt has an EASY TO GET TO voltage adjustment screw - wide open to the outside world. And turned up, it can reach high conditioning voltages and stay there, hours, days weeks. Constant And adjusted to 14.4 volts, it charges the batteries correctly. To 14.4 volts. For hours and hours if necessary. One pair of L16's 400 amp hours, one half of which is 20 amperes charge current. Until amperage falls to 2.0 amps then the battery is charged like Lifeline insists on. I like the Meanwell RSP 1000-15 Because it has enough amperage to take the entire bank to 14.40 volts AUTOMATICALLY even when the batteries are in service. Just flip a switch you can leave it on for a hundred hours and it can not hurt the batteries. Forget theoretical float voltages -- what I am talking about here is at 14.40 volts turn it on and then shut it off when you remember to, or the rain stops or in the morning or when you find your slippers. You MUST SEE less than 8.0 charge at 14.40 volts MINIMAL HOTEL LOADS then the batteries are charged. This is a NORMAL EVERYDAY RECHARGE for Lifeline batteries. Anything less, kills the batteries. And Platinum Plated Plutonium batteries require the same care. Prove it to me that Lithium battery lifespan does not suffer if CONSTANTLY undercharged... For the price of a power supply, hundreds and hundreds of dollars of damage is done because of incorrect charging. Given enough AGM batteries the damage amounts to thousands of dollars and every cent wasted is utterly needless. The Lifespan of a Lifeline is one thousand cycles at 50% depth of discharge. It raises to three thousand cycles at a shallower depth. I purchased a group 31 Lifeline in 2012. In October it's capacity test was 99.1% In 1991 I purchased 2-volt flooded batteries -- they are still in service. And I am lazy as hell. I do not play manservant to my batteries. SCREW amp hour meters for battery management. No meter on earth equals a human brain and a little knowledge. You can disbullshit an amp hour meter by terminating a charge when the amp hour meter says the batteries are full then connect a power supply set to 14.40 volts and have your hair stand on end when you see black & white proof just how much WRONG your amp hour meter is. An amp hour meter gives a reasonable reflection of how much power was used. But for recharging only the straight old fashioned AMPS will give an idea of when the batteries are charged. ONE HALF OF ONE PERCENT ... PERIOD Salesmen touting the ability of their amp hour meter to accurately determine a battery's correct fill, need a converter's positive cable stuck up their *** and the "Equalize" button pushed again and again until the salesman changes his mind Care to see an amp hour meter control charge voltage to 14.40 volts and then switch to float when amperage reaches .5% of set amp hour capacity? It does not exist. Press THIS button again and again or THAT button again and again is stupid. Flipping a switch then returning when convenient and switch a power supply off is less stupid. And it does not have to be done every charge. Try every seven days. If it takes four hours or four days to reach .5% it does not matter. Try that with a converter / inverter / perverter. If I was forced to deal with short battery life and Alice In Wonderland hookah smoking caterpillar calisthenics with converters like I read on this forum I would junk the batteries and move to a hotel and ring down for room service. The definition of LAZY I have a UPS system sitting next to my bed. For lights and a BiPAP. A Lifeline AGM. With twin meters. Amps and volts. A voltage adjustment knob. Floating? Glance at the voltage and room thermometer. No longer cold at night? Tweak the potentiometer. Maybe once a MONTH Power outage? When power is restored I tweak the voltage knob. Elapsed time 3 seconds to set to 14.4. I arise and have coffee. Ooooooooooops the battery has been at 14.40 volts for 8-hours. I plumb forgot. Oooooooo the amperage is at .48 amps. Guaranteed full battery. Tweak voltage to 13.4. Elapsed time four seconds. Yeah the meters and the knob is mounted on a bedside table. Yawn, reach over and tweak, swivel neck and read meters. This is the epitome of lazy. Disgusting. For an AGM that has outlived 99% of the automatic mismanaged AGMs. Using a Meanwell or Megawatt as a de-B.S.'er is even easier. Just make sure the monitor is connected correctly showing amperage flowing into the battery. When it reaches .5% of amp hour capacity amperage, shut off the charger or not. Sometime reasonably soon, like maybe tonight, shut off the power supply. Once a week or 10 days. I simply do not have the money or low intelligence to believe plug and play. The premise is absurd and I have better things to do and purchase than fighting BS battery management. I can reasonably expect 12 years of service out of my Lifeline. And my 2-volt cells are of an age where they can legally purchase alcohol and inhale destructive distillates of burning vegetation... Meanwhile back at the ranch... Read the Lifeline manual about conditioning. And try to survive the needless replacement of battery replacement twice as often as need be...
MEXICOWANDERER 03/11/18 03:04pm Tech Issues
RE: Another AGM conditioning question

As long as every single cell avoids overheating apply 14.4 volts even if it takes four days at 24 hours per day charge time. Naio's predicament is she feels sensitive about over-amping the Megawatt which is a valid concern. It is a tough power supply but reasonable is reasonable. It is designed to augment a properly sized converter, not replace it. AGM batteries have a formidable charge acceptance. With the 2-story Lifeline 31 I have whacked it with 137 amperes to achieve 14.4 absorbsion 14.4 volts limit. My error with Naio is I somehow believed she was dealing with wheelchair batteries. So right off the bat I was standing on non-existent ice. By virtue of physics and chemistry only a cell short or multiples thereof can cause an AGM battery to overheat if voltage limited charging is employed. So checking the battery by hand (an infra red scanner is easier and best) will reveal excess heat either in a single cell or series cells. WEAR EYE PROTECTION! Please! I mean it! Once a rig's converter set at 14.4 volts has amperage slump to LESS than the power supply's max amperage limit, then the power supply can constant voltage charge the battery for hours and even days if required. ============================================================================================================================================================= Let's use some common sense in diagnostics... A 135 amp hour AGM as an example. Connect a charger to it -- converter or power supply it does not matter Over whatever amount of time it takes, by keeping track, and voltage limiting to 14.4 it seems as though the 135 amp hour battery has taken 290 amp hours worth have charging and has not had its amperage decline to one half percent of total amp hour capacity (in this case less than 6.75 amps)... The battery is bad If amperage ALMOST declined to 6.75 amps than try the battery under load and if it works to your satisfaction then it works. If it falls flat on it's face it fails meaning a bad battery. Think of a five gallon bucket. If you jam 6 gallons into it, is it a five gallon bucket? No. It has a leak. A battery operates on chemistry so the leak can be twiddled with -- to a point. By equalization or conditioning charging. If it fails to respond to equalization or conditioning twiddling then you have a bad battery. If you want to be snotty about the protocol All batteries have a charge efficiency factor measured in percentage of overcharge needed to bring a discharged battery to full charge from being discharged. A neglected battery has a moderate fault in amp hours needed to return to full charge A bad battery can never be returned to full charge. Endless charging, never reaching one-half percent of amp hours at 14.4 volts, or reaching the magic figure but then rendering a notable lack of ampere hours of charge storage. The lack of charge storage can be treated with conditioning. The never reaching the one-half-percent even with ridiculous amounts of excess amperage at 14.4 volts is like allowing an at bat hitter slack. But "Strike twenty-seven you're out" should be ample proof the battery is scrap. Hope this helps...
MEXICOWANDERER 03/07/18 01:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Another AGM conditioning question

Do you have another healthy enough battery you can hook the questionable AGM to, in parallel? The MEgawatt will self limit to its maximum amperage. My meanwell on a ~60AH calcium calcium maintenance free starting battery drained to 10v had to be turned down to its lowest setting to keep amperage below 20, as moreamperage than this the battery temperature rose quickly. My meanwell is capable of 40 amps. A battery drained as low as the OP's I would likely not even bother with, unless I paralleled another 12v battery to it and then put then put the charging source on the other battery. I'd still not have much hope. While most flooded deep cycle say 0% charged is 10.5v, I see 'some' AGM's saying voltages in the mid 11's equal 100% dischrged: Crown1 AGM pdf saying 11.64 is 100% discharged If the battery was slowly brough to 1.7v i doubt I would waste any time effort or electricity trying to get it to rest above 12v ever again. Even if it did, a small load would likely have it back below 10.5v again as its capacity is likely long gone. but best of luck and keep flammables away from it
landyacht318 03/07/18 01:24am Tech Issues
RE: Another AGM conditioning question

Megawatt does not seem like a good solution if it does not self limit the amps at the max rating. Or are you adjusting the voltage while connected? Set at just 1 volt over the battery voltage. Increase 1 volt when amps are steady or dropping. Do you have a different charger or some jumper cables? Standard converter would be better. If you can jump the battery to get the automatic charger started I think you could leave it charge overnight in a safe place.
time2roll 03/06/18 11:23pm Tech Issues
RE: Another AGM conditioning question

Glad to hear there may still be hope! But how low a voltage can the MW put out? This battery won't take 13v. Even with the MW at 12.36v, amps still kept going up albeit more slowly, about 1a per 30 seconds or so. So I got in maybe 5 mins of charging before it hit 30 amps. But that 5 mins took me up to 6v ;). I am not sure if the Megawatt goes much lower? Also I gotta do this on a dry day, as there is no roof :B and I have to sit there staring at the ammeter.
Naio 03/06/18 10:58pm Tech Issues
RE: Another AGM conditioning question

This info wasn't published...time spent charging =+ total amp hour capacity. I know of no lead acid battery that has recovered successfully from a 50% cell voltage that had spent time utterly and totally depleted. 0.00 volts, then a rebound to 50% voltage after extensive charging attempts. With something like a Megawatt, current limiting through a light bulb (amperage throttle) is the only safeguard that would prevent runaway. A 25 watt bulb would limit current to two amperes and change. Hasn't had a heartbeat in a half hour would be an appropriate analogy as to why mouth-to-mouth would be futile. Sometimes it's best to yell "Uncle" and settle for a low battery cutout.
MEXICOWANDERER 03/06/18 06:32pm Tech Issues
RE: Another AGM conditioning question

Addendum: Megawatt now at 12.36v, amps still going up but more slowly, about 1a per 30 seconds or so.
Naio 03/06/18 02:02pm Tech Issues
RE: Another AGM conditioning question

Hi guys. I got too sick to deal with the agm chassis battery for an extended time, and now I am back to it. But no matter what I set the megawatt at, the amps just go up and up. Then I turn down the megawatt til watts are about 24, and they climb again. Within two minutes, over 30. My last try was 13.18 volts. I know above 32.4 amps will burn out the megawatt. Should I give up on this battery? Is there something else I should try? Thanks a bunch for any advice.
Naio 03/06/18 01:46pm Tech Issues
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